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Paris Trip Report from TBelle

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Paris Trip Report from TBelle

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Old Jan 15th, 2006 | 03:49 PM
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Paris Trip Report from TBelle

Travelling to ParisKristen picked up a stomach virus on Christmas Eve, but there was no practical way to postpone our trip; primarily because the flight, ll tours, trains, hotel, and airport shuttle service were not only scheduled, but PREPAID. We boarded the first plane, from Chattanooga to Memphis around 5pm on December 25. Kristen's fever had been between 100.4 and 101.5 for the day, and her stomach was a disaster. She made use of one of the airbags on the flight (sadly) - with no choice, as the onboard restroom was out of order.

She was looking like she might be getting better in Memphis, but as we went from terminal to terminal on the electric walkways, OOOPS - another need for a bag. Poor Kristen. When we boarded the flight from Memphis to Amsterdam, her fever was 102.1. Her throat was *very* sore, and she was in dire need of ice.

The flight was still boarding when I asked our attendant if he could get her a cup of ice, and told him she was quite ill. *OOOPS* He swiftly told me, "No - she is not ill - if she is ill, she will not be allowed to take the flight!" OK, no, she is not ill, but she would *really* like some ice - which he brought pronto.

Thank goodness for those flight bags - she needed another on this flight. Great. We had been on the trip for less than five hours and she had already used 3 bags. Egads.

We had food on the plane - Kristen of course had very little, but it was some pretty good chicken with green beans and some type fried cubed potatoes, along with salad, a roll, and some dessert (that I didn't try). Kristen picked at the food. We slept most of the trip (I think we must both be contortionists now, folding into unrecognizable shapes to grab a few winks). A quick breakfast was served prior to landing in Amsterdam (which Kristen quickly declined).

Amsterdam AirportThe Amsterdam airport is very nice indeed, but I was quick to find the smoking section which was in the restaurant area on the upper floor. We weren't able to eat, as I didn't have any Euros at this point (duh!). Kristen was able to obtain a cup of ice at no charge from the McDonald's after explaining we only had American dollars.

OH - the weather. When we arrived in Amsterdam, it was clear, sunny and beautiful. As we sat on the plane waiting for takeoff to Paris (less than 2 hours later), it was overcast and we had a small-sized hailstorm. Quick changes here! The flight to Paris was short, and we made it through the airport in a breeze.

Arrival in ParisI am *so* thankful we had made reservations with PariShuttle from the airport. I made a quick (free) phone call prior to picking up our luggage (which came off almost first!), and the driver was waiting at the exit for us. The drive from CDG Airport to our hotel must have been some 45 minutes - traffic here is VERY dense. The roads in Montparnasse are amazing - most do not even have lines, and I swear, our driver was an EXPERT driver, and although I had complete confidence in his driving ability, I was afraid to look out the window because at intersections, the cars just go anywhere and everywhere!

He delivered us safely to our hotel Unic st Germain, where we checked in with no problems. By this time, Kristen was very much on the mend from her illness. I was quite relieved. Upon checking in, we discovered that breakfast was NOT included in the fare, although the Expedia site indicated it was. OK... we would live with that.

We took the lift up to our room on the 3rd floor - which was barely large enough to accommodate the two of us and our luggage. We entered our room. I'm sure glad I paid a premium for a larger room, because this one is TINY! Not nearly as tiny as the very efficient room Richard and I stayed in during our Japan trip, but tiny nonetheless (suffice it to say that if one of us is walking, the other needs to be sitting).

I tried to access the internet (Expedia said there was free wifi, at least I BELIEVED it said that), but could not. Fine - we'd try later. We went downstairs and out for some dinner around 5:30, and stopped at a Bistro on the corner. Kristen had a chicken and mayo baguette with Coca-Cola; I had a pate baguette with a small bottle of wine (which was cheaper than the coca-cola, I might add). About half through the dinner, she saw a waiter carrying a plate of french fries to another customer, and just *had* to order some, which we split. 30 Euros later, we headed back to the room, and went to bed after our long trip at about 7:30.

*Side Note*: I told the desk clerk when we returned that I was having difficulty accessing the internet, and sadly learned that it was not free. There were cards to be purchased, though! OK, I can live with that. A 24 hour card was approx 20 Euros, and although I was not happy with it, I would take one. THEN I found out they were *out* of 24-hour cards. They did, however, have 1 hour and 3 hour cards. The price of a 3-hour card? 15 Euros!!! NO!!!!!!!!

I was now in the room conversing with Kristen, angry because I had chosen this hotel for (1) free breakfast, (2) free wireless internet, and (3) free coffee in room. There were none of these things. I was contemplating how to get a refund and relocate. Then, as we discussed it, we realized we did not come to Paris to sit in the room on the internet, and we would just have to adjust. The room was, after all, very nice (albeit small), and we were otherwise quite happy.

OK, we'd live with it! I tried to use the phone card to call home, and found out we didn't know how to use the phone, either. Time then, to just go to bed!

Our first comment was the bed was as hard as a board and our pillows as hard as rocks; our second comment (in the middle of the night upon waking for a wee bit) was that boards and rocks weren't so bad. We slept until 11:00 am (egads!) the next day, she finishing the last of her illness and me getting rid of exhaustion.

Our First Day in ParisWe showered and readied ourselves for the day, and were AMAZED at something we were told practically *never* happens in Paris - SNOW! And I mean, nice BIG beautiful flakes, that stuck to cars, roofs, and grounds on ice skating rinks and tops of buildings. BEAUTIFUL!!! What fun.

We headed first to Creperie du Josselin for brunch (which came VERY highly recommended), and were delighted to find it just about 150 meters down the street. The place was crowded beyond belief; Kristen took one look at the crepes and decided it was not for her, and really wanted to leave (I mean REALLY). I just smiled and stood my ground - this was a must try, and I was planning to try. When our seats came open (they were turning people away by this point), she had no escape. I had the ham and cheese crepe with a coffee; Kristen had a Coca-Cola and vanilla ice cream. Delicious - actually both of them (I tried the ice cream!). The waiter was especially kind, as he charged us only 10 Euros (the price of a one person fixed price meal) for our lunch!

We left there and headed for the obligatory shopping trip at Inno, where Kristen purchased a black hat and some very chic black gloves, then we were off to the Montparnasse Tower and a beautiful overview of Paris from the tallest building in the city. On the way, we enjoyed a look at the carousel and an outdoor ice skating rink, which looked all the more fun coated in the falling snow! The view from the top of Montparnasse Tower was spectacular, as the snow had temporarily waned and the sun was temporarily shining.

I took picture upon picture, and we had a quick snack at the 360 Degree Cafe on the 56th floor. Kristen I photographed having a Ben and Jerry's ice cream with a Sprite (how American is THAT????)! I had a coffee. To give an idea of pricing - our coffee, ice cream, and sprite here totalled 12 Euros - 2 more than our lunch, and MUCH less of cuisine and quantity!

After a nice time, we window shopped along the first floor, then returned once more to Inno. I wanted to pick up some snacks for the room - Kristen wanted fruit, but the grocery area had *such* a strong aroma from the fish market there that she could not bear shopping, and we went without the fruit. I bought some wine and champagne, and Kristen got a few coca-colas, and we returned to the hotel and decided to purchase the 3-hour internet card.

We're pretty much up to date on where we are now! Kristen has been writing in her journal, and I have been catching up on the trip journal for the blog, as well as taking photos off the camera and onto the computer. We will go out for dinner in a bit; we are totally convinced that people here MUST be rich as it costs 4 arms and 3 legs to eat.

Tomorrow is our trip to Versailles - a day trip with lunch included; we will be picked up at the hotel lobby between 8:45am and 9:00 am.
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Old Jan 15th, 2006 | 04:03 PM
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Great report so far!
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Old Jan 15th, 2006 | 05:22 PM
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cpd
 
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Thanks for sharing!

I was sick (in the stomach way) on a domestic trip a couple of years ago and so can empathize - it is dreadful. Glad to hear everyone is better.

and SNOW!
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Old Jan 15th, 2006 | 07:29 PM
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Thanks for reporting back to us. I'm looking forward to hearing how your trip turned out.
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Old Jan 15th, 2006 | 07:40 PM
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Thank you for posting this, I am enjoying reading of your adventures.
Poor poor Kristen! That is one of my fears, since having to fly home years ago with a case of food poisoning from Bermuda. And that was only a 2 hour flight!
Kudos to Kristen!
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Old Jan 16th, 2006 | 04:41 AM
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The End of Day 1 - Tour Eiffel

After journaling yesterday, Kristen and I went back out in search of food. We'd received rave reviews about the Bistro La Cerisaie, which we were able to locate, but alas, it was not open. I don't know if we were too early (some restaurants open for lunch and supper, but are closed in between), or if it was a day on which the restaurant simply was not open. Regardless, we bummed around and settled on a little bistro across the street. Kristen had french fries. Again.

We ran into the Edgar Quinet metro station on the way back, and decided to go for it. We purchased a one-week metro pass, and boarded a train. GREAT NEWS! The train we boarded headed for Tour Eiffel! We didn't really care *where* we were going, but it was really cool to be going there! Five or six stops later, we got off and walked a few blocks to the Eiffel Tower. Ahhh... So beautiful at night, all lit up, and we were able to see the twinkling from a distance (I've not figured out yet what the schedule is for the twinkling of the lights, but we do know it is not often). We had a grand time walking around, shopping a bit, then headed back to the metro station. We certainly got confused when the train came 'round, because it was NOT our train!

Ooops - we were at the wrong metro station. Back upstairs and down another block or three and we found the correct station and train, and returned to the hotel for some much needed rest. Excited about the day, I checked in with Richard online, then he phoned and we all talked (for too long, I'm sure). Then... sleep!!!

Day 2 - Versailles

We scheduled a wake-up call for 7:00 am, and met our ParisVision tour guide at the lobby at around 9:00 am. The van already had 3 passengers - a nice French fella and his two daughters, aged 10 and 12. We picked up 2 more female passengers of Asian descent at another hotel, then headed off for Versailles, a rather quiet 30 minute drive.

Our first tour was of the State Apartments of the King and Queen, as well as the Hall of Mirrors. If ever there were a time I wished for a wide-angle lens, this would be it. Every room had magnificently painted ceilings, and every room had beautiful *large* paintings in elaborate frames on the walls. The Hall of Mirrors, unfortunately, is under renovation (from 2003 - 2007), so we were able to view only around 1/3 of the room. I am certain it would have been awesome - the portion we viewed was!

The weather was bone-chilling cold, and I had not remembered to bring my gloves from the room. Also, I opted to wear slacks with shoes rather than jeans with boots, so I didn't have extra warmth on my legs. Bad combination in the spitting snow. We spent some 2+ hours in the State Apartments, and then it was time to take a quick tour of the gardens. Interestingly, every single one of us opted out of that little meandering, preferring rather to hop in the van and take a drive to the restaurant scheduled for lunch. At this point, we were all not only quite cold, but also quite tired. Ahh, but the day had only just begun!

We had a lovely lunch, beginning with a salad with a goat cheese filled pastry appetizer, followed by salmon and rice (ok, most of us didn't have that - we had the steak, which came with french fries), and finally ending with an apricot tart. Wine (soda for the kids) came with the meal; coffee was extra but the nice French fella treated me to a cup.

Now rested and happy, we boarded the van and drove over to the next destination - The Grand Trianon. In stark contrast to the State Apartments, the walls and ceilings were white, with white mouldings providing decoration (with the exception of Marie Antoinette's room, which had a pale blue wall color with white mouldings).

From this tour, we drove over to the third destination - The Petit Trianon. This was less elaborate than the last, but certainly had its share of beauty.

Our final stop was at the farmhouse in Marie Antoinette's "village" on the grounds. The girls had a blast there - petting donkeys, looking at the VERY fat black pigs, rabbits, ducks, sheep, goats and rams. It was a nice conclusion to a long but lovely day. We arrived back at the hotel around 4:00 pm. I was exhausted, and Kristen was chomping at the bit to go back out!
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Old Jan 16th, 2006 | 04:58 AM
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ira
 
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Lovely report, TB.

Thanks for sharing.

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Old Jan 16th, 2006 | 07:42 AM
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It doesn't have to cost "4 arms and 3 legs" to eat in Paris...
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34733142

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34685551
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Old Jan 16th, 2006 | 09:35 AM
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Hi, Travelnut~

We probably have to break this down into semantics - 4 arms and 3 legs for ME might be pennies for you! As I mentioned, we both got our first crepe breakfast for 10 Euros combined, which was one heckuva deal! We also (you'll see this in subsequent posts) picked up bagettes from time to time at Inno, also very inexpensive.

We just happen to live in a rather financially depressed area in the south (a $100k home here would be a $400k home in many US areas, and a million $ home in San Francisco), and I'm a penny-pincher. So, it's all relative to what you are accustomed to.

We did fine - I'm just posting from my journaling on a day to day basis, and that was my impression on the second day.

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Old Jan 16th, 2006 | 04:47 PM
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no criticism here... we ate at an Asian deli FOUR times our last visit!
I just wasn't sure you'd obtained any restaurant recommendations for 'reasonable' prices, but then afterwards I came across some of your pre-trip posts and saw you had.
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Old Jan 16th, 2006 | 05:08 PM
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TBelle... I'm really enjoying your report. I'm glad that Kristen got her bug early in trip... they can be a drag!

Please keep reporting, albeit on a 3 hour internet card! Thanks
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Old Jan 16th, 2006 | 05:20 PM
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Belle,

Enjoying your report, but don't understand your problem with getting Euros in Schipol Airport in Amsterdam. There are ATM machines all over the place. Where did you finaly get money?
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Old Jan 17th, 2006 | 03:30 AM
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Travelnut - no problem. I got great recommendations pre-trip. Most problems I had were in locating places my finicky daughter would eat!

Danna - the reports will continue, but we're back home now (our 17 day journey put us back home at 11pm on January 10) - I'm writing for Fodor's from journaling at the time, day to day. Glad you are enjoying!

Nukesafe - we did finally get the Euros in the Amsterdam airport. We just didn't think to find where to get them until *after* we had time in the food court upstairs!
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Old Jan 17th, 2006 | 03:39 AM
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News Flash!!! Last night, when Kristen was "raring to go" - she ummm - fell asleep while I was journaling. This, mind you, was at about 4:45 pm. I let her nap, but then tried and tried and *tried* to wake her for dinner, to no avail. She was not about to get up. No way. Nada. I read several more chapters of the book mom had loaned me for the trip, and turned in around 11pm.

Day 3 - The Hop-on, Hop-off Bus Tour???

I woke up smelling food downstairs (alas - the "not free" breakfast) around 7:30am. I tried to wake Kristen several times. She really didn't care. I threatened to go down for breakfast alone, she said "Fine." Egads... I managed to change her clothing from pajamas to street clothes as she lay in the bed, thinking this would move her forward. Nope! I finally told her I was HUNGRY! She told me to go on down, she would join me in a moment.

An hour and a half later, having finished the coffee and most of one french bread, I ventured back upstairs, 10 Euros poorer. Kristen was fast asleep (either again or still... LOL). I pulled out the book and continued to read, and finally, some time after noon, I had finished the book. Kristen was still unresponsive. At this point, I was getting quite distressed at the excessive amount of time spent in the room, especially since we we were on the first of two days of our "hop on, hop off" bus tour, we had not yet been to the tour office to redeem the vouchers, and half the day had already passed! ACK! I tried really hard to get Kristen moving, and she started moving (YES!)...

At this point, I was already going downhill emotionally... I pulled out a sweater to put on over my shirt, and Kristen told me I looked ridiculous in it (or perhaps she said, "Mom - that sweater looks just AWFUL on you!&quot. Anyway, it was icing on the cake for me. I went into the bathroom and started crying. Kristen asked sincerely what was wrong. I wasn't sure what to say - I just knew I was in Paris and had spent 10 waking hours in this tiny room while she slept (along with 8 or 9 sleeping hours while she slept), and I was probably going insane at the time. I simply told her I needed a shower. Then I babbled something to make her feel guilty about being in Paris and being stuck in a room and not being able to make her happy and...

Anyway, we got over that part, and finally left to get the hop-on, hop-off bus tour tickets redeemed (albeit one day too late). She wanted to eat before we left, so we searched, and searched, and searched... for a restaurant that didn't look French to her. Finally we found Pizza Pescara Grill - about 4 blocks from our room. Kristen had a cheese pizza, and I (thankfully), could finally have a fixed price lunch with a choice of appetizer, entree, and dessert! I wanted escargot, but Kristen would not allow it. I settled on French Onion soup, and she balked at that when she smelled it. Whatever. I got to enjoy it anyway. For the entree, I had a wonderful veal steak with a side of spaghetti, both covered in a white mushroom sauce. For the dessert, I ordered the chocolate ice cream (so Kristen could have it!).

Having finished our lunch, it was time to head to another part of town (good luck!) via rail to find the bus tour office. Kristen, however, had a change of heart. She decided she really *did* want that moderately expensive French coat and hat she had tried on the day before, which she declined at the time (not sure what she really wanted, but I think it was the 500 Euro coat in the window!!!). I asked her several times if she was sure, and she said she was, so we went back to the store (very close to our hotel), where the keepers remembered us. They quickly retrieved the coat and hat, cut the tags, re-dressed her, and smiled broadly at the little American girl in French attire. (By the way, they couldn't speak English, we couldn't speak French, but we all knew what was going on here!)

Let's Find the Office...

We headed out to District 9 in search of the Bus Tour office. Egads! What a trip! First of all, the one-week rail passes we had weren't one week after all. They were one trip. The attendant got extremely agitated over our inability to converse OR use a machine that should be simple - all we knew was we ended up with tickets. It was KRISTEN who told me they were good for a week, but in retrospect, how would SHE know? She doesn't speak French, either! *LOL*

We purchased rail passes (individual ones), and headed toward district 9. We did have to change trains at the Gare Montparnasse, but it went off without a hitch. The big problem was after we arrived! We asked 5 people directions to Rue Auber, and with each person we asked, we were turned around and pointed the other direction. In retrospect, all the directions were correct. We simply didn't understand when to turn LEFT!

We finally arrived, and *thankfully*, they allowed us to use our tickets for the 30th and 31st, rather than the 29th and 30th, so we did NOT lose a day! We made it back to the Metro and made the subway change appropriately to get home. Now Kristen's ready to go ice skating (well, after a telephone call with Richard, who lifted both our spirits - thank you, honey!!!)...

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Old Jan 17th, 2006 | 01:40 PM
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Loving your report. Can't wait to read more.
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Old Jan 18th, 2006 | 02:07 AM
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I've just read your report from the beginning and I feel exhausted! ;-)(because I'm French and have a slow brain...)
I feel sorry about your tiny room, non free breakfast and non internet access. It is a shame! as a former receptionnist I wouldn't have "lived with that". Couldn't you show them a booking form that mentioned it was included? You had paid for the whole thing, the hotel had to deal with it.

I'm looking forward to reading the next episode!
coco
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Old Jan 18th, 2006 | 05:15 AM
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I'm enjoying your report, but two things struck out at me. First, how old is Kristen? Could you have left her in the room while you went out? It's not fair to you to lose out on time to Paris for her sleep. Also, I would have been one angry airline passenger if someone was sitting near me with a known stomach virus. It would be my luck to catch it.
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Old Jan 18th, 2006 | 08:40 AM
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Radiofanatic~

Kristen is 11. I suppose in theory she could have been left in the room, but that's really considered illegal here, and I would assume anywhere.

And I agree wholeheartedly about the sickness on the plane. If there were any way to change any of the reservations, we would have done so. I actually did not know she was sick until the morning of the day we left. Fortunately, she sat next to no one on the plane except me...
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Old Jan 18th, 2006 | 08:47 AM
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Coco~

The only thing I had on my side to claim things were as I thought they were was the information posted on the Expedia website. At that point (I guess even still) - I did not/do not know if the fault belonged to the hotel itself or to Expedia.

I can chalk it off as a lesson learned - many people on Fodor's have firmly recommended telephoning hotels prior to making reservations (or at least e-mailing!) - had I done this I would have appropriate grounds to stand on.

By the way - after we had stayed there about a week, the hotel room grew and the bed and pillows had become comfortable. *LOL* Go figure!

Next trip report coming!
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Old Jan 18th, 2006 | 08:48 AM
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End of Day 3 - In search of Ice Skating

We left the hotel after the post yesterday evening in search of an ice skating rink. We agreed on the one by the Tower Montparnasse - just a few blocks from our hotel. When we arrived, unfortunately, we found it closed (it appears they do not have late evening hours). Kristen opted to return to the Tour Eiffel, so we headed back for the Metro and hopped the train.

It seemed to have been much colder than the last visit, but it was fun and Kristen remembered her way like a tiny computerized map. We got to the Tower and then quickly agreed we would ride the carousel. The ride didn't last very long, but with the Eiffel Tower on one side and the River Seine on the other, it was amazing!

After the carousel, we took what we have read was considered a "mandatory" night boat ride on the River Seine. I see now why it is considered mandatory. It was beautiful. The Tower started twinkling after we were on board, and I was getting a better idea of the timing. It seems it twinkles "on the hour". Kristen and I sat in the back (open) part of the tour boat as I photographed every dark thing I saw (truly, it looked MUCH lighter than the photos portray!!!) until my camera's battery died. Egads! I had not put the spare in my purse.

Kristen had gone to the inside (windowed) cabin about 10 minutes earlier, and now, with no batteries for photography, I joined her. I have to admit, in the heated comfort of the cabin, I was rather glad the camera was finished for the night!

Most of the bridges (at least the older ones) were elaborately decorated, and truly beautiful to see and pass under. We passed by the Louvre, Museum d'Orsay, Notre Dame, and dozens of other attractions I can't recall the names of. The ride was approximately 45 minutes. Delightful!

When we disembarked, Kristen just *had* to have a cotton candy, which I truly should have photographed (but could not). It was as wide as she was, and a third as tall! She enjoyed her candy under the Tower as I sat on a park bench nearby; we witnessed another twinkling of the lights "on the hour". About half-way through the cotton candy, her fingers grew too cold to continue eating (quite frankly, she had more than enough, considering the original size of the thing), and she discarded it en route to the Metro.

Back in our neighborhood, we stopped into the first bistro we had visited so I could have some dinner, and Kristen, of course, could have some French Fries. *sheesh* I had a steak with parslied butter and... french fries. An hour later, we were going to sleep watching "Charlie and the Chocolate Factory" on the laptop.

Beginning of Day 4 - Another Adventure on the Way

Today we go in search of the hop-on, hop-off. Kristen is still sleeping soundly, and I am watching a good amount of spitting snow through our double windows. It's pretty, and beats the heck out of rain!

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