Old Oct 22nd, 2005, 02:57 PM
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We are back from our two week trip to Paris; thank you to all those who post here, your ideas, recommendations and love of Paris added to the pleasure of our journey.
A little context here first; we are mid fifties couple, I have been to Paris a couple times before and loved it, my husband had never been.
so here we go, hope you dont get too bored.

AirCanada Vancouver to Paris, into town via paris shuttle with no problems at all. Dropped us at apartment we had rented in the 5th through NYHabitat on rue Ecoles. Place was great, one bedroom which was surprisingly large, small living rm/dining area, small kitchen, small bathroom. And a balcony! one of the reasons I had chosen this place. Also washer and dryer ( which you will hear more about later ), terra cotta tiles throughout and all very nicely finished. The owner, Sophie, was there to greet us and seemed very nice and told us all the instructions to everything were written down on various pieces of paper around the apartment. Out we go, walk around the neighbourhood, buy a few groceries and go to Fete Gallant for dinner. Very sweet little place; fabulous tomato soup, chewy rump steak and medium duck. Started to sprinkle as we headed home for bed.

Day 2: Up early, coffee and bread and then hit the streets. St. Chapelle first which was especially stunning as the sun was hitting the glass in the top room just right. We wandered over to the Samarataine after as I wanted to show A. the view; it was closed. ( we later learned it has gone bankrupt). Had lunch on Ile de la Cite in Place Dauphine at La Rose en France. A fabulous salad full of gizzards, smoked duck breast, fois gras pate and walnuts. Wandered slowly around the islands, there was a partial eclipse of the sun which was great to see although we didnt have glasses and we kept thinking our eyeballs would be burnt from our heads. Home to rest and then out to Trumilou for dinner. Very good duck with prunes, bean soup, rabbit and pate. Very reasonable price and good house wine.
( I just realized this whole report consists mainly of our meals and what we did in between while we waited for the next one )

Day 3: Moufftard market and then went to see a photo exhibit at the Musee Carnavalet that was about the love of Paris. It was clear that this photographer did not see Paris through the same eyes as I did and if I saw it through her eyes I dont think I would love it that much. This is one of my favourite museums.
Wandered the Marais, lunch in a corner Cafe, very good entrecote and pork chop. Home to rest and then out to Petit Pontoise for dinner. Started with artichokes in a vinagarette which I didnt like much, baked camebert that was huge, yummy quail and lamb chops. Apple tart and ice cream and waddled home.

Day 4: Quite morning at home then wandered in the upper Marais scouting restaurants. Went to dinner at La Buerre Noisette in the 15th, very good food and service; I found the room a bit drab though.

Day 5: Musee D'Orsay ( it is always great no matter how many times I go ) and around the 6th. A. wanted to visit Shakespeare and Co. and I cruised the shops. I thinked we skipped lunch as we were really starting to feel we had to get a grip. We made up for it at dinner though, went to La Fontaine and had a huge meal. Great kidneys in mustard sauce, yummy potatoes, A. had what looked like a quarter of a cow down into steak tartare and we had salads to start.

Writing this has made me hungary, I must go and have something to eat; will finish another time.
We were having a great time, the weather was cloudy but very warm and it was everything I wanted it to be.
joey365_000 is offline  
Old Oct 22nd, 2005, 03:03 PM
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Those who are hungary, let them go ulash.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2005, 05:28 PM
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Great report, but now I have to get up early next time in Paris to visit St. Chapelle. Thanks
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Old Oct 22nd, 2005, 05:29 PM
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Roby, that is my favorite post of yours ever!

Looking forward to hearing more about your trip (and less about kidneys and gizzards and such)
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Old Oct 22nd, 2005, 05:33 PM
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welcome back, I hope there is more?
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Old Oct 23rd, 2005, 01:56 PM
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here we are on Day 6:

This is A. s birthday so we begin by presents etc. and then go and see a Dada exhibit we had read about. It was huge and I am ashamed to say I just didnt get it and it left me completely cold. A. found it somewhat intellectually interesting however and since it was his birthday that was a good thing. I had booked him an appt. at the turkish steam bath in the Marais for a steam, scrub and massage. I had had the same thing in Vancouver anad thought it fabulous; clearly there was a slip between the cup and the lip here as A. was completely confused in the place, he didnt get a massage and arrived home very clean but a little bewildered. Oh I forgot a meal lol, we had lunch at Taverne Henry iv; I had great coq au vin and A. had lasagne. Very comfortable place and welcoming.
Dinner: Chez Fernand. A. had salmon tartare and roast chicken, I had the very best kidneys in a sort of gravy ( sorry about that ) and a green been salad. This place had more fellow tourtists than any place we had eaten so far. We then hit the Caveau de Huchette and heard a great jazz band and watched a group of wild people jitterbugging for hours. It was lots of fun.

Day 7: Walked to Butte aux Cailles; weather was gorgeous, sunny and about 70 F. They were having some sort of celebration of the anniversary of the commune in the square in the middle. What a great little neighbourhood; had lunch at at Italian place called Les Cailloux which was very good and a nice break from French food.
Arrived home exhaused and just had dinner at the corner.
Day 8: Vanves market when I almost bought a little metal box for 120 E because I thought it said 20E. This was a great market, larger than I thought it would be and tons of fascinating stuff. Not cheap though.
That evening we took the Segway tour; we were on them for ten minutes and A. was saying he was getting one as soon as we got home! We had a great time, our tour guide was a guy from home ( Vancouver ) and he seemed to know lots about the history of the area. Saw the Eiffel Tower do its twinkle thing and went as far as the Louvre and back again. 70 E. each but worth every penny.
Day 8: fairly quiet, more wandering, sitting in cafes enjoying the wonderful sun. La Rose en France again for lunch with more gizzards in salad, perch with a fruit compote. I love this restaurant.
Dinner: Baracane bistrot de L'Outlette. Walk in and see a friend we knew was in Paris; I had cassoulet which was yummy. bread was stale and I didnt think the service was as good as last year. Kind of indifferent.
We had done a laundry before we left home and when we got back we couldnt get the door of the machine open. We tried running it again and doing all sorts of poking and prodding but no way; we called the owner, she was not happy . Said she would send someone the next day. Bed.

Day 9: Time to explore the Bastille /Nation area. Lunch as La Villaret which was excellent; the most non touristy place we ate during our time in Paris.
dinner at La Mauzac way in the south of the 5th; we had 800 grams of beef on the bone and a huge bowl of the greatest potatoes; my god I thought I was going to explode. thanks heavens it was a long waddle home.

Day 10: Musee Marmottan: this was our favourite museum experience, the Monets were both inspiring and calming and its such an accessible building. From there we walked to the Arc De Triumph and watched the miracle of all those cars and no accidents. Down the Champs Elysee ( ugh ) and home.
dinner: La Rose En France again ( we are starting to get boring here, same place 3 times ). Back home to find the washer/dryer door still unable to be opened . Hmmm most of our socks are trapped inside.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2005, 09:29 PM
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Thanks for the report; it was most enjoyable!
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Old Oct 23rd, 2005, 09:45 PM
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Thanks for this nice report - I'm also hungry now!

Is La Samaritaine really bankrupt and closed?
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Old Oct 23rd, 2005, 10:33 PM
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I feel like I have gained weight just reading this !
Thank you joey for posting..
I was in a museum this past week, looking at a painting by Monet and remembering sitting downstairs in the Marmatton and being surrounded by those huge paintings..sigh~
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Old Oct 23rd, 2005, 10:39 PM
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Hi Joey 365 000 - Thanks for the report which was interesting to see what other folk did at the same time I was there.
About La Samaritaine - my little bit of information from a taxi driver was they are re-opening it in 5 years time.
Who knows.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2005, 10:43 PM
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It seems many fodorites were in Paris during the first week of September, I was there too.

But I'm jealous, you got to stay in Paris much longer, I was there only 4 1/2 days. My trip did go on to Normandy, Bruges, Brussels and Amsterdam, but I will definitely return to Paris, there's much more I didn't get to see or do while I was there.
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