Paris - The search is on for the best cassoulet
Oct 22nd, 2010, 11:00 AM
#42
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None of these cassoulets had a crust. Chez Papas and a few others had breadcrumbs.
I just made reservations for Fontaine de Mars for tomorrow at 12:30 (midi et demi). Fodorites, if you're in Paris tomorrow -come on and join me. I'll be the tall brunette with the leopard pashmina and black jacket
(I just realized that describes a lot of Parisian women.)
Make that tall brunette Texan eating cassoulet...
I just made reservations for Fontaine de Mars for tomorrow at 12:30 (midi et demi). Fodorites, if you're in Paris tomorrow -come on and join me. I'll be the tall brunette with the leopard pashmina and black jacket
(I just realized that describes a lot of Parisian women.)
Make that tall brunette Texan eating cassoulet...
Oct 22nd, 2010, 11:47 AM
#43
The best cassoulet cannot possibly cost more than 15€ because cassoulet is a cheap workers' dish of beans and lard, with sometimes a few bits of duck or goose thrown in.
If it has lots of additional ingredients, it is not cassoulet and should just be called 'overpriced beans for idiots willing to pay the price.'
If it has lots of additional ingredients, it is not cassoulet and should just be called 'overpriced beans for idiots willing to pay the price.'
Oct 22nd, 2010, 11:52 AM
#44
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What are you folks calling a "crust". Ones we have had in Paris are served in individual cocottes.
Kerouac, fine. Have it your way. Some of us prefer to delve into regional cooking. And indeed it can contain many or few things.
Kerouac, fine. Have it your way. Some of us prefer to delve into regional cooking. And indeed it can contain many or few things.
Oct 22nd, 2010, 12:10 PM
#46
Gretchen, it's not regional cooking if you have de-regionalized the recipe and the ingredients. Might as well call the new thing "California Cassoulet."
(Ewww.... I just got a vision of that food abomination called the California Roll! Yuck, yuck, yuck...)
(Ewww.... I just got a vision of that food abomination called the California Roll! Yuck, yuck, yuck...)
Oct 22nd, 2010, 12:57 PM
#49
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When in doubt, I often go to Julia Child. This is her recipe for cassoulet. So this explains the crust.
Julia Child's Cassoulet
Serves 10-12
From "Julia's Menus for Special Occasions" (Knopf)
For the beans:
2 pounds (5 cups) dry white beans,
such as Great Northern
1 pound fat-and-lean salt pork
(rind optional)
1 large herb bouquet made up of
8 parsley sprigs, 4 garlic cloves,
1/2 teaspoon thyme and 2
imported bay leaves,
all tied in washed cheesecloth
Salt, to taste
For the cassoulet:
4 pounds bone-in lamb shoulder,
sawed into stewing chunks
Rendered goose fat, or cooking oil
2 large onions, sliced
4 or 5 large garlic cloves, minced
4 or 5 tablespoons tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon thyme
2 imported bay leaves
2 cups dry white wine
3 cups beef stock or bouillon, or
more if needed
Salt and pepper, to taste
5 pounds preserved goose, cut in
pieces, plus cracklings
11/2 to 2 pounds sausage, such
as kielbasa or chorizo, or sausage
meat formed into cakes
3 tablespoons rendered goose fat
or melted butter; more if needed
2 cups moderately pressed-down
fresh white crumbs from crustless,
nonsweet French or Italian bread
1/2 cup moderately pressed-down
minced fresh parsley
Make the beans: Pick over the beans to remove any debris, wash and drain them, and place in a large pot. Add 41/2 quarts water, cover and bring to a boil. Boil uncovered for exactly 2 minutes. Cover and let sit for exactly 1 hour.
Meanwhile, if you are using the salt pork, remove the rind and cut pork into slices 1/2 inch thick. Simmer rind and pork in 3 quarts water for 15 minutes to remove excess salt. Rinse in cold water, drain and set aside.
When the beans have finished soaking, bring them to a simmer, adding the optional pork and rind, the onion and herb bouquet, and 1 tablespoon salt if you have not used salt pork, 1/2 tablespoon if you have. Simmer slowly, partially covered until the beans are just tender, about 11/2 hours, adding boiling water if needed to keep beans covered at all times, and salt to taste near the end of the cooking. (May be done up to 3 days in advance; refrigerate. Bring just to a simmer before proceeding with the cassoulet.)
To make the lamb: Dry lamb pieces. Film casserole with fat or oil, heat to very hot, but not smoking, and brown lamb pieces, a few at a time, removing the browned pieces to a dish. Pour out excess fat and brown the onions lightly. Return lamb to casserole, add garlic, tomato paste, herbs, wine and enough stock just to cover lamb. Salt lightly, cover and simmer slowly until lamb is tender, about 11/2 hours. Correct seasoning. When cool, remove and discard bones from lamb. (May be cooked up to 3 days in advance; when cold, cover and refrigerate lamb in its cooking liquid. Discard congealed surface fat before using.)
To assemble the cassoulet: Remove bones from preserved goose and, if you wish, the skin. Cut goose into serving chunks the same size as the lamb pieces. If using salt pork, cut it into thin slices. If using sausage, cut in half lengthwise, then into chunks, and brown lightly in a frying pan with goose fat or oil. If using sausage meat, form into cakes about 11/2 inches across, and brown in fat or oil.
Using a slotted spoon, remove beans from their liquid, but reserve liquid. Arrange a third of the beans in the bottom of a 6-quart casserole. Cover with a layer of lamb, goose, sausage, a handful of goose cracklings and, if using it, half the salt pork. Repeat with a layer of beans, then meat. End with a layer of beans, coming to within about 1/4 inch of the rim of the casserole. Ladle the lamb cooking liquid plus as much bean cooking liquid as needed just to cover the beans. Spread breadcrumbs and parsley over the top. (Recipe may be prepared to this point up to 2 days in advance, but if the beans and lamb have not been freshly cooked, bring them to a simmer for several minutes before assembling cassoulet, to prevent any chance of spoilage. When cool, cover and refrigerate.)
Cooking the cassoulet: If you have assembled and refrigerated the cassoulet in advance, place the covered casserole in a 325-degree oven for an hour or more until its contents are bubbling and the center of the cassoulet reaches 212 degrees when tested with an instant-read thermometer, then proceed as directed below. Heating the cassoulet on the stove to this point may cause the beans on the bottom to scorch.)
Heat oven to 400 degrees.
Bring casserole to a simmer on top of the stove, then set it in the oven. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until breadcrumb topping has crusted and browned lightly. Break the crust into the beans with the back of a spoon and return casserole to the oven. Lower temperature to 350 degrees and continue baking 15 minutes or more until a second crust has formed. Break it into the beans, and if the cooking liquid seems too thick or the beans dry, add a spoonful or so of the bean-cooking liquid. When the crust forms again, the cassoulet is ready to serve.
Julia Child's Cassoulet
Serves 10-12
From "Julia's Menus for Special Occasions" (Knopf)
For the beans:
2 pounds (5 cups) dry white beans,
such as Great Northern
1 pound fat-and-lean salt pork
(rind optional)
1 large herb bouquet made up of
8 parsley sprigs, 4 garlic cloves,
1/2 teaspoon thyme and 2
imported bay leaves,
all tied in washed cheesecloth
Salt, to taste
For the cassoulet:
4 pounds bone-in lamb shoulder,
sawed into stewing chunks
Rendered goose fat, or cooking oil
2 large onions, sliced
4 or 5 large garlic cloves, minced
4 or 5 tablespoons tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon thyme
2 imported bay leaves
2 cups dry white wine
3 cups beef stock or bouillon, or
more if needed
Salt and pepper, to taste
5 pounds preserved goose, cut in
pieces, plus cracklings
11/2 to 2 pounds sausage, such
as kielbasa or chorizo, or sausage
meat formed into cakes
3 tablespoons rendered goose fat
or melted butter; more if needed
2 cups moderately pressed-down
fresh white crumbs from crustless,
nonsweet French or Italian bread
1/2 cup moderately pressed-down
minced fresh parsley
Make the beans: Pick over the beans to remove any debris, wash and drain them, and place in a large pot. Add 41/2 quarts water, cover and bring to a boil. Boil uncovered for exactly 2 minutes. Cover and let sit for exactly 1 hour.
Meanwhile, if you are using the salt pork, remove the rind and cut pork into slices 1/2 inch thick. Simmer rind and pork in 3 quarts water for 15 minutes to remove excess salt. Rinse in cold water, drain and set aside.
When the beans have finished soaking, bring them to a simmer, adding the optional pork and rind, the onion and herb bouquet, and 1 tablespoon salt if you have not used salt pork, 1/2 tablespoon if you have. Simmer slowly, partially covered until the beans are just tender, about 11/2 hours, adding boiling water if needed to keep beans covered at all times, and salt to taste near the end of the cooking. (May be done up to 3 days in advance; refrigerate. Bring just to a simmer before proceeding with the cassoulet.)
To make the lamb: Dry lamb pieces. Film casserole with fat or oil, heat to very hot, but not smoking, and brown lamb pieces, a few at a time, removing the browned pieces to a dish. Pour out excess fat and brown the onions lightly. Return lamb to casserole, add garlic, tomato paste, herbs, wine and enough stock just to cover lamb. Salt lightly, cover and simmer slowly until lamb is tender, about 11/2 hours. Correct seasoning. When cool, remove and discard bones from lamb. (May be cooked up to 3 days in advance; when cold, cover and refrigerate lamb in its cooking liquid. Discard congealed surface fat before using.)
To assemble the cassoulet: Remove bones from preserved goose and, if you wish, the skin. Cut goose into serving chunks the same size as the lamb pieces. If using salt pork, cut it into thin slices. If using sausage, cut in half lengthwise, then into chunks, and brown lightly in a frying pan with goose fat or oil. If using sausage meat, form into cakes about 11/2 inches across, and brown in fat or oil.
Using a slotted spoon, remove beans from their liquid, but reserve liquid. Arrange a third of the beans in the bottom of a 6-quart casserole. Cover with a layer of lamb, goose, sausage, a handful of goose cracklings and, if using it, half the salt pork. Repeat with a layer of beans, then meat. End with a layer of beans, coming to within about 1/4 inch of the rim of the casserole. Ladle the lamb cooking liquid plus as much bean cooking liquid as needed just to cover the beans. Spread breadcrumbs and parsley over the top. (Recipe may be prepared to this point up to 2 days in advance, but if the beans and lamb have not been freshly cooked, bring them to a simmer for several minutes before assembling cassoulet, to prevent any chance of spoilage. When cool, cover and refrigerate.)
Cooking the cassoulet: If you have assembled and refrigerated the cassoulet in advance, place the covered casserole in a 325-degree oven for an hour or more until its contents are bubbling and the center of the cassoulet reaches 212 degrees when tested with an instant-read thermometer, then proceed as directed below. Heating the cassoulet on the stove to this point may cause the beans on the bottom to scorch.)
Heat oven to 400 degrees.
Bring casserole to a simmer on top of the stove, then set it in the oven. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until breadcrumb topping has crusted and browned lightly. Break the crust into the beans with the back of a spoon and return casserole to the oven. Lower temperature to 350 degrees and continue baking 15 minutes or more until a second crust has formed. Break it into the beans, and if the cooking liquid seems too thick or the beans dry, add a spoonful or so of the bean-cooking liquid. When the crust forms again, the cassoulet is ready to serve.
Oct 22nd, 2010, 01:01 PM
#50
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I'm pretty sure no one convince me that ANY canned product - and all the requisite preservatives etc. - is HEALTHIER than a homemade cassoulet made with lots of love - and no preservatives.
And really - that's not the issue here is it? I thought we were looking for the best one in a Paris restaurant - not in a can.
And really - that's not the issue here is it? I thought we were looking for the best one in a Paris restaurant - not in a can.
Oct 22nd, 2010, 03:20 PM
#54
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Hi,cassoulet lovers....The "crust" that is being referred to is what occurs as the broth and fat...usually from duck.... rises to the top and combines with the breadcrumbs...you should press the breadcrumb crust down into the broth/fat several times in the cooking process.
If you are on Ile St Louis...check out La Scierie...it's a purveyor of duck confit and jars of cassoulet....pretty good for a quick cassoulet fix!
I'm watching to see who wins the cassoulet crown!
If you are on Ile St Louis...check out La Scierie...it's a purveyor of duck confit and jars of cassoulet....pretty good for a quick cassoulet fix!
I'm watching to see who wins the cassoulet crown!
Oct 23rd, 2010, 01:53 PM
#58
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Well today I went to La Fontaine de Mars.
I LOVE any restaurant that serves butter without my asking for it. And I love getting a big bowl of salad when I order salad verte/green salad, especially when there's enough tasty viniagrette.
And I think it's precious when they bring out the casserole like a new baby and show it to you before they remove it to a smaller side table to assemble your plate.
I went fully prepared to LOVE their cassoulet. I wanted to declare it the best. Really I did.
It had all the makings of greatness, good deep color, the requisite carrot bits, and smattering of herbs. The duck confit, and two kinds of sausage were there as expected.
Check, double check.
Shoes drops here.
It just was not what I consider to be an aromatic cassoulet. The taste was not deep or complex enough to justify the honor of the BEST cassoulet in Paris.
The dealbreaker for me was that MANY of the beans were toothy - not at all soft or creamy. In my opinion there is simply no excuse for undone or unsalted beans in cassoulet. That's as basic as it gets.
I ate 10 bites and couldn't want another.
What can I say? They had delicious butter and bread... and the service was great.
Your happy bean hunter
MC
I LOVE any restaurant that serves butter without my asking for it. And I love getting a big bowl of salad when I order salad verte/green salad, especially when there's enough tasty viniagrette.
And I think it's precious when they bring out the casserole like a new baby and show it to you before they remove it to a smaller side table to assemble your plate.
I went fully prepared to LOVE their cassoulet. I wanted to declare it the best. Really I did.
It had all the makings of greatness, good deep color, the requisite carrot bits, and smattering of herbs. The duck confit, and two kinds of sausage were there as expected.
Check, double check.
Shoes drops here.
It just was not what I consider to be an aromatic cassoulet. The taste was not deep or complex enough to justify the honor of the BEST cassoulet in Paris.
The dealbreaker for me was that MANY of the beans were toothy - not at all soft or creamy. In my opinion there is simply no excuse for undone or unsalted beans in cassoulet. That's as basic as it gets.
I ate 10 bites and couldn't want another.
What can I say? They had delicious butter and bread... and the service was great.
Your happy bean hunter
MC
Oct 23rd, 2010, 02:09 PM
#59
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Cassoulet purists - look away...
If the beans were seasoned correctly, I think I could forego the duck confit or accept a substitute.
I think that most beans are better with some kind of pork/ham flavor but I may even be able to accept a cut of pork other than sausage.
Beans NEED salt and some kind of aromatics. The color is enhanced with carrot and a few tomato bits here and acceptable. And I really like the depth of a good rich stock.
But folks, ya gotta have plenty of salt and it takes several hours of cooking to get those beans soft.
So the search is still on. I'm going to Julien next unless you have a better idea.
Yours
MC
If the beans were seasoned correctly, I think I could forego the duck confit or accept a substitute.
I think that most beans are better with some kind of pork/ham flavor but I may even be able to accept a cut of pork other than sausage.
Beans NEED salt and some kind of aromatics. The color is enhanced with carrot and a few tomato bits here and acceptable. And I really like the depth of a good rich stock.
But folks, ya gotta have plenty of salt and it takes several hours of cooking to get those beans soft.
So the search is still on. I'm going to Julien next unless you have a better idea.
Yours
MC
Oct 23rd, 2010, 02:51 PM
#60
No problem. Keep looking if that is your wont. La Fontaine de Mars is where Mr. Obama went for dinner after declining an invitation by Mr. Sarkozy. That doesn't necessarily make it the best place to go, but it says a ton about what protocol officers think is appropriate.
