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Old Jun 21st, 2008, 08:17 AM
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Paris Report

We are in the middle of our two week stay in Paris. Thought I would post a quick report for anyone who is headed over here in the next few weeks.

We are staying in an apartment in the 7th. This is our fourth time in the neighborhood but our first time in this apartment. It is the vrbo "Two Bedroom Designer Apartment on rue de Grenelle". If anyone is interested in the apartment, I will find the exact number and post it. The apartment is very comfortable and the location is wonderful. The only downside is, since it is located right above the rue Cler market, it is a little noisy. The windows are not double glazed and we do hear people partying into the night and delivery trucks in the morning. It appears that Cafe Roussillon, which is across the street, is the new neighborhood hot spot witht he 30-something crowd. However, the pros of this apartment far outweigh the good and I would recommend it...it is really roomy for our family of four.

We have eaten at a couple of great restaurants. Last night we ate with some friends at Pizza Gourmandise on rue Augereau. There were ten of us - four adults and six kids - and the owner was perfectly welcoming and very tolerant of our large group. My husband and son had eaten here before a few times on our last trip with the kids and the owner remembered them! As we left he brought us a pizza to take home. The pizza is fabulous here - probably would not recommend anything else.

Another fab meal was at La Taverna on the rue du Champs de Mars. The staff was really, really friendly. I mentioned to the waiter that the last time we ate at this restaurant I had a fabulous strawberry risotto - the server then went back to the chef, and returned to tell me that he would be happy to make me a special pear risotto. I jumped at the chance and it was fabulous! My kids had rabbit and loved it. We have eaten at this place every time we have been in Paris - this is our fourth time there - and have always had a wonderful meal.

Last night we walked in the Champs de Mars after dinner and had quite a surprise. Apparently it is tradition for the French high school kids to celebrate in the park after the end of the school year - the Bac was this week. The park was MOBBED with young adults and the ground was covered with broken glass from wine bottles. However, the crowd was having mostly benign fun and it was quite something to observe. I talked to the crepe vendor who told me that the partying started Thursday night and continues until this evening. My son (who is a sophomore in high school) has decided that Paris is the place to celebrate his high school graduation!

The weather has been perfect - very very little rain and not hot at all. The Parisians have been wonderful and I have been able to extensively practice my French (I just finished my first year of college French). We've let the kids go out by themselves a few times at night and felt perfectly comfortable with that (they are addicted to the chocolate crepes from the vendor on rue Cler).

Tonight is the Fete de la Musique - we are going to check out the concerts at Invalides and the Champs de Mars since we are close to both.

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Old Jun 21st, 2008, 08:41 AM
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How nice of you to take time to post a "quickie" report!
Hope you are going to have some photos to show us soon.

Seeing you are in the 7th don't miss the opportunity to have lunch or dinner at Le Vin Sobre, 35 Avenue Duquesne - We ate at the branch at 26 Rue Feullantines near Val-de-Grace just three weeks ago.
You won't be disappointed.

Enjoy the rest of fabulous Paris!
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Old Jun 21st, 2008, 09:49 AM
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The Champ de Mars high school picnic last night turned into a riot, and shops were broken and looted through the nearby areas of the 7th, particularly around La Motte Piquet-Grenelle. There were something like 28 arrests.

Meanwhile, I will just mention that the #1 food eaten in Paris by tourists is Italian -- this was in a TV report last night.
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Old Jun 21st, 2008, 11:51 AM
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Yes, we also hit an Italian place every visit and also a neighborhood Asian deli every time...
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Old Jun 21st, 2008, 12:06 PM
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La Taverna sounds right up our alley...We will check it out. Thanks for posting.
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Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 03:37 AM
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Thanks for the post! How old are the kids you are travelling with?
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Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 06:49 AM
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Yes thank you for the report. So? Now I'm gonna be stuck trying to make fruit based risotto's...
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Old Jun 24th, 2008, 07:57 AM
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Kerouac - thanks for the update on the park situation. I did not read any local papers the next day, and am so sorry to hear about the rioting. We must have left before the bad behavior began. My husband and kids returned on Saturday evening for the Fete de la Musique and all was well, must have been increased police presence?

Canada_V, my kids are 15 and 12. My son (the 15 year old) especially loves Paris. He took a year of high school French and is getting a lot of mileage out of it, with lots of gracious help from the Parisians.

Is it a cliche to have eaten Italian food in Paris? We just love La Taverna and my husband loves the pizza at Pizza Gourmandise. Hopefully I can redeem myself by reporting that we have eaten French cafe food every single day for lunch! We also ate at Le Florimonde last night and it was as wonderful as always (and packed, we had to reserve four days in advance).

Another little find - a pub down the street from Moulin de la Galette on rue Lepic (look for the Guiness sign)...the street was closed and they set tables out across it. We had croque and duck confit with an amazing view that overlooked Invalides and the surrounding neighborhoods of Paris (you see, French food again). At the end of the meal the proprietress brought us two of the "house specialties" - a shot of rum, poured over ice, with flavored syrup. The food was good, but it was nice service and the view that set this place apart.

Once again I will say the Parisians have been wonderful and we all love Paris.

Oh, SuzieC, go on the yahoo.fr search page and you'll find quite a few recipes for strawberry risotto. It is just fabulous. Of course the key is lots of butter and cheese!
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Old Jun 24th, 2008, 08:53 AM
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The French eat even more Italian food than the tourists do, so don't worry about it. Is there anybody who doesn't like Italian food?

In any case, French consumption of pizza is double the amount eaten by the Italians. However, as we all know, Americans eat the most pizza in the world per capita.
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Old Jun 24th, 2008, 09:13 AM
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Thanks Kerouac, I feel much better. We were the only Americans in Pizza Gourmandise, after all!
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Old Jun 24th, 2008, 10:03 AM
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Thank you for taking the time to report in while you are still in Paris. I love hearing your experiences.

How wonderful for your children - do you find that they get a lot of attention from people you encounter? Children who are truly interested in their surroundings are irresistable.
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Old Jun 24th, 2008, 08:14 PM
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LC, it is true that the Parisians really enjoy when my children speak in French during their interactions with them. My son has done especially well, and while he is not fluent by any means, he has a lot of confidence and has gone off on his own several places. He even tried to rent a video the other day (with no luck - no ID!) but he was happy that he was able to communicate to the video store clerk who spoke little English. The server at the English pub in Monmartre where we lunched complimented the kids when they ordered in French (which just consists of "Je voudrais" and "Merci&quot. I find that in most restaurants, as my children continue their ordering in French, the service gets friendlier and friendlier as the meal progresses.

Another benefit of this trip is that my kids are starting to pick up a little bit of respect and understanding for the French culture and its different set of manners. My son and I were in one of our favorite places in the Marais yesterday having lunch when a very loud and rude American man barged in, looking for directions. My son gave me a look like "what the heck is this guy doing". After the man finally left my son said "what a jerk!". The man really was rude and violated all kinds of courtesy rules, and I was happy that my son could see that.

By contrast, my husband is determined to hang on to his little bit of ugly American-ness and is getting about the results you would expect. We were in a very busy cafe last night and he wanted an after dinner drink - something usually not done - and asked for the menu in English. The very busy server walked by once, twice, three times before finally bringing the drink menu and then once, twice again before taking the order. And when it came - it was the port my husband wanted but on ice. He was on the verge of returning it but I think the evil eye I gave hime prevented him from doing so.

While my daughter is quite determined to pronounce the French words correctly and will imitate my son or I, my husband is equally determined to mispronounce things and pretty much ignores our advice. I've tried to explain to him that the mispronunciation actually turns the word he is trying to say into a completely different one - for example "le" pronounced "lay" is actually "les"...I've given up. He does know how to correctly pronounce "une leffe pression s'il vous plait" and "l'addition" and I think he's satisfied with that!

In any csse, today looks like rain so we are off to Le Bon Marche - the soldes are here! Unfortunately I had a little splurge at Hermes and so am banned from further shopping - at least my daughter can indulge as she has weaseled some Euros from her dad.

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