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PARIS RENDEVOUS July-August 2010. My Trip Report.

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PARIS RENDEVOUS July-August 2010. My Trip Report.

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Old Sep 8th, 2010, 05:41 AM
  #21  
tod
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Comment about Vanves Fleamarket -
Nothing really took my fancy apart from an old rusty but very ornate key which was too expensive. We did however enjoy the atmosphere under the trees, people with their pets and children searching for that one Dinky car they did not have, stallholders sitting around playing a kind of draughts game, and generally just the whole experience of a first-timer!
I did regret not buying an old cut-throat razor in it's box for 20 euros because when we got to Canada two weeks later I was to visit an old house museum where they had the box but no razor - I would have given them mine if I had it!

Sunday 25th July and the finale` of The Tour De France.

Our entire trip to Paris was based around this one special day. Many hours spent contemplating where to position ourselves for the all mighty dash around the Champs Elysees.
We also wanted to experience the hype of the start so decided to take a chance and rush off to the last town the riders were to depart from, namely Longjumeau.

Starting out on this overcast day of 22C we first headed up to the breakfast room in the hotel. Slighty busy was putting it mildy. There was no-one at the door, everyone was milling around and most of the tables were packed. We gave up the idea of eating here.
The next move was to take a short metro ride up to the McCafe` next to the steps of Le Dome.
We arrived at this giagantic underground station of La Defense and decided to buy our tickets to Longjumeau right then and there. They were about 20euros for both. Walking up to Mac's a short distance away we were soon enjoying piping hot croissants straight out of the oven. Bill for breakfast 5.40euro.
Back to the station La Defense.

The journey starts on the RER A (red line) as far as Chatelet Les Halles before changing to the RER B (blue line)and eventually onto the RER C (yellow).
We left Paris at 10.30am and arrived in Longjumeau in plenty of time to do some strolling around as more and more people arrived on the main street. Eventually we took up our positions on a small stone bridge and waited for at least another hour. At least one lone bagpiper kept us entertained with his happy Scottish tunes!

What excitement when the initial police motorbikes came shooting through, followed by a couple of official cars and then the first 'caravan float' - if I may call it that, arrived.
Although these vehicles were not going slowly, kids and adults alike rushed into the street to grab plastic sunshields, caps, green waving-hands or whatever was being flung out of the advertisers float vehicle! Into the path of the next float they scrambled like people possessed! I thought we are going to need an ambulance anytime now!!

This spectacle carried on relentlessly for ages and when the last one had zipped down the main street it was like 'Awe gee is that it?'.
We walked back to a restaurant we had taken note of when walking into town. Yes, it was Chinese called Dragonland - you probably are getting the idea we love Chinese food!
It's a large place and every chair and table was decked out in bright yellow. I wondered if this was in honour of the Tour de France but the young waiter assured me it was just because they liked the colour.

The food was excellent with DH having his favourite boeuf aux oignons & me the boeuf aux poivron pime, both @ 6.50, a bowl of riz Cantonese, a Tsingsao beer and a coke, all came to 20.60euros.

Now to walk the long road back up the hill to the station. On the way we see some very nice cottages all in stone.
A young American boy and his father were amongst the crowd waiting for the train back and we got chatting. They had been to the stadium start and missed the caravan passing through town. When they found out we were South Africans they were quite surprised. I gave the boy a little South African flag made out of native beads and he was so delighted.
'Oh cool'he said.

Photos: http://tinyurl.com/3xr9zsp

Crazy Crowds on the Champs Elysees.

Back in Paris we exited the metro at Charles de Gaulle Etoile and immediately found ourselves in a wall of bodies. Oh heck, this was going to be difficult. It was. Inching forward slowly we eventually got further down where it was bad but not so bad.
We carried on right to the bottom where I realise I have made one hell of a mistake! We don't want to be on the leftside going down, we needed to be on the Tuileries side.
Well, theres no going back now and no place to go across the street so we carry on walking towards rue de Rivoli via Rue du Faubourg St Honore. Hundreds of people are passing us going the other way but I reckoned if we could get as far as the Louvre we may be able to cross over to the otherside.
Fat chance!
Absolutely exhausted and hot we take a turn down one of the side streets leading to rue de Rivoli.
Joining the throngs we push forward towards the Louvre.
Before we can get much further a huge cheer goes up and the police motorcycles fly past followed by the official cars and soon it's total pandamonium as the bike riders appear. I am stunned at the speed they are doing!
Quicky we try and find another spot where we can see better.
By this time we have got as far as the golden Joan of Arc statue on her horse. There is more room here and we take a breather at Le Carrousel where a 50cl Affligem and a Heineken set us back 17euros. Cash in on Le Tour must have been their motto!

After the race instead of making a mad dash for the metro we hung around and watched the roller bladers leaping over barriers and suchlike in a square next to the Louvre des Antiquaires building. How they don't injure themselves I'll never know.

With the thinning of the crowds we head to Porte Maillot metro stop - a direct line from metro Louvre-Rivoli thank goodness!
We decide 6.30pm is still a little early for dinner so sit in the park called Place de la Porte Maillot. What a relief after all those crowds. I fix my make-up while DH photographs the wild life....bunny rabbits. They look like a domestic variey but are obviously wild now.
Later we stroll over past the Palais des Congres to Leon de Bruxelles on Blvd Couvion St Cyr. We are now in the 17th Arrondisement of Paris and over the bridge at Esplanade La Defense, we are no longer in Paris. But Paris is VERY visible from there!

As luck would have it we bag a table for two right up against the flower boxes on the sidewalk. This was a very entertaining spot as it's not too long before cars belonging to the different teams of the Tour pull up. Next thing some of the riders are walking right by our table! They have their families with them and some of the boys are carrying their young children, their wives/girlfriends following holding a bouquet of flowers. Television crews are untangling miles of cable and the whole scene is vibrant! Guess they're staying at Le Meridien and other hotels around there.
We order the special mussels which come as a sort of paella dish called 'Mussels a la Plancha' but the mussels were teeny and disappointing. Total bill with drinks 45.00euros .

What a day! I'm bushed and ready for that nice kingsize bed!
Photos:

http://tinyurl.com/2w3fdqj
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Old Sep 8th, 2010, 07:07 AM
  #22  
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Forgot to add the photos also include the restaurants adjacent to Leon de Bruxelles like Chez Clement, and a Morrocan restaurant called Maison de Charly. The whole area was quite vibrant in the evening.
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Old Sep 8th, 2010, 08:03 AM
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Very much enjoyed your report!
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Old Sep 8th, 2010, 08:33 AM
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Thank you annesherrod, but stay with me. I have the best yet to come!
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Old Sep 8th, 2010, 09:26 AM
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Excellent report. I'll admit that La Defense area has not had much interest to me. I will reconsider..I must commit to following Kerouac's suggestions.

Last trip I stayed in the 16th, near the Radio France building.Vanves market was on my agenda, but got lazy that day. Be interested in knowing what market is good for antiquarian paper items, if anyone can suggest. I believe there is an area at St Ouen.
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Old Sep 8th, 2010, 09:43 AM
  #26  
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Many thanks to TDudette, Irishface, adrienne, Christina, Kerouac, Sue4, Gracejoan & all who take the time to read my report! It certainly is a labour of love and takes time and patience to put it together, so all comments are GREATLY appreciated!

This afternoon I was so excited to receive my parcels of goodies posted from Paris! I sent nearly 6kgs of gifts and souvenirs back home via the good ol' Post Office.
I was overwhelmed at the efficiency and friendly service I received at all Post Offices in and around Paris. They couldn't have been of more help - right down to helping me wrap more tape around a big envelope or box.
I salute you France Post!
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Old Sep 8th, 2010, 10:31 AM
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Great report (and excellent photos), tod. You'll get the hang of Paris sooner or later. I told people from the very first time the question was asked that the Tour is best viewed from the Louvre end.
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Old Sep 8th, 2010, 10:43 AM
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Still with you, tod. I went to the Puces de Vanves some years ago and found a couple of things I liked very much. I still have the lovely copper pot, but the old wooden coffee grinder was stolen out of my luggage and never made it home.
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Old Sep 8th, 2010, 11:27 AM
  #29  
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Reading and enjoying your report and photos.

In the "float" photos, I was amused at the two buff guys on the X-TRA float. Is X-TRA a laundry detergent?

And what is the ride next to the Ferris wheel?

Thanks for taking the time to write.
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Old Sep 9th, 2010, 12:01 AM
  #30  
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Michel_Paris, Yes do take time to wander around La Defense but start at the Pont de Neuilly area which is really lovely.
Walk across the bridge and carefully negotiate the road (which turns sharply with cars and buses whizzing past) up past the Hotel Ibis which will then lead you past the Takis Basin & my vineyard and then through the gardens until you arrive at the great open space of the Parvis with the metro & RER A underneath. Do some internet research as the pieces of art can be pointed out and details given. The huge shopping mall is unbelieveable!
Unfortunately you cannot ascend the Grande Arche anylonger but walk up the steps and take in the view from the otherside.
I hope you get a sunset like we did!
As for St Ouen Fleamarket - Kerouac has done a brilliant photo-essay. Maybe he'll give you the link here which diverts onto Port-in-a-Storm.

Glad to hear you also enjoyed Vanves Nikki!

CW, I have no idea what that ride is but those folks sure got a dizzying sight of the race! I think X-TRA must be a detergent. I was amused at the 'protective harnesses' they had strapped around themselves.
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Old Sep 9th, 2010, 01:42 AM
  #31  
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Monday 26th July:

Time to move out of the Hotel Ibis and on to our next hotel but we had serious laundry to contend with! I definitely wanted to explore the area of Corbevoie whilst we were up there so here was our chance to find a laundromat or Lavarie there.
We stashed the cases at the reception and lugging a large bag headed down underneath the bridge where we had seen a bus stop.

Unforuntely this stop had buses going in the oppersite direction, so we hopped on and journeyed up Quai National into the Puteaux area. We spotted a bus stop going the other way and transfered buses.
This took us back to Corbevoie. All very pleasant if you are not in a hurry, and we definitely were not as check in time was after 2pm.

Now, I don't know where we got lost at this point but the central sort of village of Corbevoie with shops is so small that if you blink you'll miss it. Anyhow we did, (blink that is) and the bus journeyed on and on and on, with no shops anywhere in sight.
Well, we had to stay on the bus until at last, the area showed signs of activity and we hopped off just after two large railbridges. We were in fact now in Asniers-Sur-Seine!

We didn't mind at all and found ourselves in a really charming little town. Finding a lavarie was another matter!
We asked around and were directed under the station to one that was closed. After a coffee and the usual baguette with jam at the nearest cafe`, we asked around some more and eventually found one next to a butcherie.

While the washing went round and round we took a walk up to the Townhall and found a large post office where I could post off my grandson's shoes I had bought at St.Denis Market plus other odds and ends. What fantastic service! Parcel boxed up and sent off we walked back, collected the laundry and sauntered back the way we came.
It was past the lunching hour by now and we fortunately found Asnieres Celeste, 10 Rue La Station - it was just perfect for a late lunch. Sitting under the trees we enjoyed boeuf parfums, riz cantonnais, legumes saute`s, nouilles saute`s and poulet du chef - yes, of course Chinese! Sounds like a lot of food but it was a place where the food was already prepared and you chose a little bit of each and then it was brought to the table. The lunch cost 16.40euros without our wine.

Retracing our route we journeyed back to the Ibis, collected our suitcases and ordered a taxi.
Soon we were deposited outside our new home, The Hotel de-la-Jatte, on a perfect island hideaway!
Link: http://tinyurl.com/38vaaxg

Our time on the Island of The Artists:

We are not very far from where we had just been staying but the whole atmosphere, surroundings and buildings were so different we could have been on another planet.

Moving in was not without a slight hitch. Our room was at the back of the hotel which was to be expected as we had a lower rate booked on the internet. But they had given us a tripple room which had an extra bed. This was a bit cumbersome and I asked if it could be removed. Unfortunately not, so we were shown two other rooms. The one stunk of smoke and the other was a lot smaller, so we stuck with the room booked.
The bathroom was huge and modern and made the other bed in the room all worthwhile. We had a bar fridge, lots of little gift shampoos etc., plus a nice new pair of towelling slippers each! There may have been dressingowns - don't recall. The room rate will be in the link I have given.

After a shower and a spruce-up we felt renewed and crossed over the road for a couple of beers at the Brasserie Neuveau Paris, which s situated on the corner.
From this point we took a very long stroll to the point of the island, walking down on the edge of the Seine to start with, then coming up to the road leading to the Avenue Monet park area. We kept going stopping every now and then to read one of the boards explaning a famous painting and the artist.

I find it difficult to put into words the delight of our late afternoon stroll through woodland, an apiarey with beehives and special plants, narrow pathways under willow trees almost blocking ones route, and the houseboats moored silently one behind each other. I think they are called Penniches?(sp?).
I am relying on my photos to unfold the wonder of this secret island in the middle of the Seine - so close to Paris but a million miles away at the same time!

It's early evening when we leave the very end of the island and walk back. We take a look at the menu of Le Guingette but it's pricey. The Nuveau Paris only served at lunchtime so we headed straight for Chez Yau (your friendly Chinese restaurant!)
This was to be the altime best Chinese food we have ever eaten in Paris. It's a big definite for next trip!
Menu: Potage poulet, springrolls, porc caramel, boeuf oignons, riz cantonaise, legumes 'chop-suey', half pichet vin & a beer - 41.40euros. A very delicious dinner!

We take a short stroll through the gardens opposite our hotel
and decide this is a VERY nice spot for a picnic!

And so to bed.

Photos:http://tinyurl.com/3akwcr6
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Old Sep 9th, 2010, 06:16 AM
  #32  
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Tuesday 27th July.

A Day Trip To Meaux:

We awoke to another lovely sunny day in Paris having slept very well in our comfy room.
Breakfast was included in our rate so off we went to the very large glassed-in area and enjoyed the continental buffet of cheeses, cold meat, yogurts, fruit juices and the usual pastries with tea or coffee.
We took our time and saw quite a few families come and go. I noticed a lot of young teenage children & younger, arriving at the table sleepy-eyed, hair all over the place, and generally looking dishevelled. Call me old fashioned but I feel the parents are to blame for this very unattractive way to present yourself in public. Holiday or no holiday I reckon you wake up, wash your face, brush your teeth, comb or brush your hair and look like a human being.
Sorry sloppy people - just the grandmother coming out in me!

Firstly my DH wanted to put some photos onto a CD which he had done at a place called Auchan (Centre Coomercial Les 4 Temps)La Defense. By far the cheapest place we found for this purpose.
Deciding to go via the route we would need for tomorrow - as we were once again moving, this time to the 7th - we took the 93 bus to Invalides and then found the taxi rank around the corner. So we knew what to expect and felt relaxed for our next mornings departure.

Moving on we left for the Auchan store getting the metro to Grand Arche La Defense. Unfortunately the chap who helped DH was not there and the lady in his place was clueless. So he just bought another memory card.
This took us to 1pm so we decided to have lunch at Le Moutard.
I ordered the grilled salmon & DH a hamburger. One guy served all the tables, running around like his pants were on fire.

We went and bought our tickets to Meaux at the La Defense station.
Soon we were heading down the tracks to a rendevous with cheese!

Meaux:
Quite a walk from the station into the little town but the narrow lanes with their old crumbling buildings were enough to make one stop and take a longer look. We passed a huge cathedral before coming to the tourist office.
I bought two bright aprons for gifts and asked about the cheese shop.
It was in one of the little side streets and had one young lady in charge. I got out my list and proceeded to get a slice of these cheeses:
First a slice of Brie de Meaux which was lying in all it's glory on a barrel out in the open. Slighty oozy already!
Next, a slice of Beaufort which I'm told is similar to Comte` but doesn't need so long to mature.
Then I ask for a rare cheese called Bleu des Causses. She has it, so I take a small slice.
Lastly a slice of mild firm Cantal.
To go with this we needed a pot of apricot jam or something similar. She had them all, right down to Myrtle jam which she highly recommended. I played it safe and stuck with the apricot. (I'll just mention here that it was absolutely divine and I took the half empty pot all the way to Canada which we finished off there).
The clever shop also sells wine and I picked out a half bottle of Morgon.

Passing a bucherie DH thought he may like to try the dried sausage so we got a smallish one and he also fancied the brawn ( kind of meat in aspic) I don't like either so he'll have to finish all that on his own!
Finally we pass a bakery just before getting back to the station and get the very necessary baguette.
Armed with our precious cargo we take the train back.
By the time we get to the Ile de la Jatte it's quite late so we freshen up a bit and head down to the beautifull little park across the road from the hotel and set ourselves up on a bench for our wonderful cheesy picnic supper.

The light fades and the ornate lamps near us light up allowing us to see what we are eating. Across the river Seine the road workers are laying new tar but we don't care about the faint hum of the steam-rollers as they ply their way back and forth. Huge balloon-like lamps are fixed to the top of the cabs.
As it grew darker they appeared like alien forms from that movie where gigantic eggs are found in the sea and from which whithered creatures emerge, finally beckoning you to climb aboard their spaceship. Namely???

Totally satisfied with cheese and wine we leave the 'aliens' to carry on through the night. To bed, to bed for these sleepyheads!

Photos: http://tinyurl.com/37h79ob
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Old Sep 9th, 2010, 06:27 AM
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Tod- you are an excellent writer and I really enjoyed hearing all about your adventures in Paris. Delightful!
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Old Sep 9th, 2010, 06:45 AM
  #34  
tod
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Thanks Jill, you're not bad 'yerself!!
I have only just begun - when this week ends (in the 7th) we leave for Canada but come back to Paris for another week in an apartment. Whew, I've got loads to tell but wonder who will still tune in! Ha ha!
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Old Sep 9th, 2010, 06:46 AM
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All of us who are stuck in our mundane and dreary lives certainly will!
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Old Sep 9th, 2010, 07:10 AM
  #36  
tod
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I think that's where I'm headed when done with this story! Oh, only until I start planning another Paris trip.......
I never thought your life was mundane Kerouac - anything BUT!
Your world is your oyster. My world is partially a 'prison', hence my need to run away to Paris.
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Old Sep 9th, 2010, 07:36 AM
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Tod - I am envious! I won't be back to Europe until next Sept!
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Old Sep 9th, 2010, 10:11 AM
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I had planned on getting a lot of work done online today but I got sidetracked with your adventures and have had a wonderful time! ;^)
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Old Sep 9th, 2010, 10:53 AM
  #39  
tod
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Jill - I think my return would be around end Sept/Oct if all goes well. May is my Favourite time to visit but this year because of Le Tour we made it July/August.

ParisAmsterdam - That's very kind and appreciated!

Tomorrow I hope to conclude the first part of our Paris trip if I am not sidetracked.
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Old Sep 9th, 2010, 01:43 PM
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Hi Tod,

I am just starting your report and already enjoying it immensely. No Paris for me this year--I decided to visit your continent instead (though East not South Africa). So your report and photos will have to be my Paris fix.

Glad to read that you and your husband are doing well and enjoying life. I still treasure the commemorative "Madiba" 90th birthday card you gave those of us who met in Paris last year. You are a very thoughtful person. It's no wonder you have fun wherever you go.

Leely
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