Paris: Perfect Left Bank Day?
Aug 31st, 2004, 06:00 AM
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Degas, I have pictures from 3 trips of the Thinker, the gold dome and the Eiffel Tower. I'd have more but discovered this by chance in 1999 even before I learned it on this forum. But I'll make sure my brother and sister in law get the picture.
Aug 31st, 2004, 06:48 AM
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I have heard of Place de Furstenburg but have never been. We'll add it to the list for this visit. We plan to do a lot of things new to us since we have been to Paris relatively frequently in recent years. Thanks so much for the suggestion.
Aug 31st, 2004, 07:02 AM
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mamc, be sure to check out the Musée Delacroix when you visit Place de Furstenberg. This is where Delacroix lived and worked from 1857 to 1863. They show revolving exhibits of his work and you can view his apartment/studio. There's also a beautiful inner garden that is a very peaceful place to sit and reflect. Then you can walk over to St. Sulpice to view his murals.
Aug 31st, 2004, 07:02 AM
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Do a google image search for the two below to see if you might also want to add them. Have fun.
Cour de Rohan (Rohan Courtyard)
Often called a magical hideaway. Location of musical film Gigi. This series of tiny courtyards offers a trip back to Renaissance France.
Entered from arcade of the Cour du Commerce St-Andre.
Cour du Commerce St-Andre.
Romantic 18C cobblestoned street-arcade - often called one of the loveliest sights in Paris.
Le Procope is opposite Cour de Rohan
Cour de Rohan (Rohan Courtyard)
Often called a magical hideaway. Location of musical film Gigi. This series of tiny courtyards offers a trip back to Renaissance France.
Entered from arcade of the Cour du Commerce St-Andre.
Cour du Commerce St-Andre.
Romantic 18C cobblestoned street-arcade - often called one of the loveliest sights in Paris.
Le Procope is opposite Cour de Rohan
Aug 31st, 2004, 07:35 AM
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I don't know if this is the "perfect" Paris Left Bank day, but it's a route I often follow for a day in Paris:
Start at my hotel near Ecole Militaire and have a large café crème at La Terrasse or one of the cafés on the Place Militaire. Read the paper and Pariscope for a good leisurely half-hour, interspersed with people-watching. Walk back by Les Invalides to the Musée Rodin. Stroll the grounds there. Walk up the rue de Bourgogne and then cut over to the Musée d'Orsay. Visit the Impressionists on the third floor. Walk from there to the rue du Bac and south along it to Blvd. St-Germain. Window shop and meander back to the rue Buci. Go to Gudule and add to my ever-increasing collection of silver jewelry. Have lunch at a café on the rue Buci (10-12&euro
. Have dessert at Amoroso (I think that's the name - incredible handmade gelato). Stroll up rue Dauphine and cross the Pont Neuf to Ile de la Cité. Visit Ste-Chapelle.
Now, at this point I'm likely to cross over to the Right Bank and make my way back west along the Seine, but if I were to stick to the Left Bank, I'd probably retrace my steps along the Pont Neuf and then walk back to the 7th along the river until I got to either the Esplanade des Invalides (wheré I'd watch the men playing boules) or the Avenue Bosquet. Either way, I'd make time to stroll and shop along the rue Ste-Dominique and the rue Cler. I'd end up at Le Florimond for dinner (about 35&euro and polish the day off with a drink at a café on the Place Ecole Militaire.
I'd probably not even set foot in the métro unless there were inclement weather.
Start at my hotel near Ecole Militaire and have a large café crème at La Terrasse or one of the cafés on the Place Militaire. Read the paper and Pariscope for a good leisurely half-hour, interspersed with people-watching. Walk back by Les Invalides to the Musée Rodin. Stroll the grounds there. Walk up the rue de Bourgogne and then cut over to the Musée d'Orsay. Visit the Impressionists on the third floor. Walk from there to the rue du Bac and south along it to Blvd. St-Germain. Window shop and meander back to the rue Buci. Go to Gudule and add to my ever-increasing collection of silver jewelry. Have lunch at a café on the rue Buci (10-12&euro
. Have dessert at Amoroso (I think that's the name - incredible handmade gelato). Stroll up rue Dauphine and cross the Pont Neuf to Ile de la Cité. Visit Ste-Chapelle. Now, at this point I'm likely to cross over to the Right Bank and make my way back west along the Seine, but if I were to stick to the Left Bank, I'd probably retrace my steps along the Pont Neuf and then walk back to the 7th along the river until I got to either the Esplanade des Invalides (wheré I'd watch the men playing boules) or the Avenue Bosquet. Either way, I'd make time to stroll and shop along the rue Ste-Dominique and the rue Cler. I'd end up at Le Florimond for dinner (about 35&euro
and polish the day off with a drink at a café on the Place Ecole Militaire.I'd probably not even set foot in the métro unless there were inclement weather.
Aug 31st, 2004, 07:51 AM
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isabel, I couldn't agree more about St Etienne du Mont. Happened to look inside on a trip a few years ago and was very impressed by the beautiful interior.
As for my Perfect Left Bank Day...it would begin, and end, in the company of a woman I know who loves Paris as much as I do.
As for my Perfect Left Bank Day...it would begin, and end, in the company of a woman I know who loves Paris as much as I do.
Aug 31st, 2004, 09:14 AM
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Merci, degas. Ah yes, romatic...that pesky little muscle spasm one can get in the Eternal City.
Another part of my Perfect Left Bank Day would be wandering down the Rue du Cherche Midi, to stop at Boulangerie Poilane, but also in the hopes of finally seeing Earl Evleth's legendary dachshund, Gaston. (Earl is an ex-pat American living in Paris I got to know on the rec.travel.europe newsgroup years ago. He used to essentially write a "blog" -- before they were called that -- with stories of his everyday life in Paris, and I got to meet him for a beer -- alas, sans Gaston, in the fall of 1998.)
http://homepage.mac.com/evleth/PhotoAlbum8.html
Another part of my Perfect Left Bank Day would be wandering down the Rue du Cherche Midi, to stop at Boulangerie Poilane, but also in the hopes of finally seeing Earl Evleth's legendary dachshund, Gaston. (Earl is an ex-pat American living in Paris I got to know on the rec.travel.europe newsgroup years ago. He used to essentially write a "blog" -- before they were called that -- with stories of his everyday life in Paris, and I got to meet him for a beer -- alas, sans Gaston, in the fall of 1998.)
http://homepage.mac.com/evleth/PhotoAlbum8.html
Aug 31st, 2004, 09:31 AM
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Coffee and croissant on my dear little rented pied a terre's balcony...and I'm off to the D'Orsay for the morning. Strolling back east, I pass a boulangerie and purchase a sandwich on a baguette, heavily buttered with that incredible french butter, loaded nicely ham, cheese, lettuse, tomato and a hard boiled egg and to drink, well... a cold coke. Which I find my way down to the park that is at the west end of the Island - Place de Gallant Vert? Two older gentlemen are playing chess on one bench; a gang of teenagers are smoking and listening to music... the fattest pigeons in the world live there and are watching me...the leaves cast dappled shadows and sunlight. I resume my walk ... but upstairs a painter is on the Pont Neuf trying to capture to barges and the sunshine on the water... and the afternoon is lovely and I line up at St. Chapelle for the windows... from St. Chapelle, I'm off for the underground museum, the "crypt" at Notre Dame. Then, across to I what I believe is called the Cafe Notre Dame for a cafe creme (its huge and its 10E's...) Then to Shakespeare & COmpany just to find something lovely to read...Collette? George Sand? Terry Pratchett (???) (books are ALWAYS in my budget 24/7), into Notre Dame for the organ practice; then down through the Latin Quartier to a cafe that is off Rue St. Andre where 3 streets meet (I Have no idea) for a glass (or two) of white wine and some salty olives...
and a gentleman at the next table, wearing a blazer with his jeans and a white silk t-shirt "chats me up" and he's from London (Prince William without the weird family...) We've talked almost until 8 pm. He has a standing reservation at Jules Verne where he invites me for dinner...and then we...
and a gentleman at the next table, wearing a blazer with his jeans and a white silk t-shirt "chats me up" and he's from London (Prince William without the weird family...) We've talked almost until 8 pm. He has a standing reservation at Jules Verne where he invites me for dinner...and then we...
Aug 31st, 2004, 05:56 PM
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Breakfast at Café de la Mairie in Place St-Sulpice is a good start because you can walk over to Pierre Hermé up the street at the corner of rue Bonaparte for some extraordinary pastry to have with the café crème, and then watch the sun shine on the kids playing around the enormous fountain in the Place. Then window shopping in the boutique-filled area around the Carrefour de la Croix Rouge: shall it be rue de Dragon for lingerie or rue du Cherche Midi for shoes?
Turning toward the Seine you head for the Carré des Antiquaires and keep window-shopping, this time for the most wonderful antiques from the last 5oo years. Someone must buy these, but who? Maybe the people living in that apartment up there on rue de l'Université, with the taffeta curtains and old beams in the ceiling that you can see looking up from the street.
A block or two further and you've reached the Musée d'Orsay and there's no line. Go in and marvel at Gae Aulenti's incredible redesign of an old train station into a light-filled and accessible museum. Take the escalators to the top floor and look at the city from the terrasse next to the café, and don't forget to visit your favorite paintings. There's probably a wonderful special exhibit as well.
It's lunch time and the Café des Lettres, with its Scandinavian lunch served in a tiny garden court, is around the corner. After lunch, a walk toward the 5th arrondissement, stopping to peek at the lovely and tiny Place de Furstenberg and looking at galleries along the rue de Seine.
Cheat a bit and cross the Pont Neuf to have a coffee or a glass of wine in the Place Dauphine, another public space with a private feel, and wonder exactly which building it was that Yves Montand and Simone Signoret lived in. If you're still cheating, don't miss Sainte-Chapelle, because it's a sunny day and you can't see those extraordinary windows too many times.
If you're feeling guilty about the detour, go back across the river and make a reservation for dinner at Balzar, which will make you feel better. But it's not dinner time yet, so a stroll to the Jardin du Luxembourg gives you the opportunity to sit down at the café in the garden to rest your feet and think about what it must have looked like when Marie de Medici lived in the Palace. Then back to Balzar for dinner and afterwards a walk back along the Boulevard St-Germain for a nightcap at one of the cafés and home...or maybe a movie at Odeon?
Turning toward the Seine you head for the Carré des Antiquaires and keep window-shopping, this time for the most wonderful antiques from the last 5oo years. Someone must buy these, but who? Maybe the people living in that apartment up there on rue de l'Université, with the taffeta curtains and old beams in the ceiling that you can see looking up from the street.
A block or two further and you've reached the Musée d'Orsay and there's no line. Go in and marvel at Gae Aulenti's incredible redesign of an old train station into a light-filled and accessible museum. Take the escalators to the top floor and look at the city from the terrasse next to the café, and don't forget to visit your favorite paintings. There's probably a wonderful special exhibit as well.
It's lunch time and the Café des Lettres, with its Scandinavian lunch served in a tiny garden court, is around the corner. After lunch, a walk toward the 5th arrondissement, stopping to peek at the lovely and tiny Place de Furstenberg and looking at galleries along the rue de Seine.
Cheat a bit and cross the Pont Neuf to have a coffee or a glass of wine in the Place Dauphine, another public space with a private feel, and wonder exactly which building it was that Yves Montand and Simone Signoret lived in. If you're still cheating, don't miss Sainte-Chapelle, because it's a sunny day and you can't see those extraordinary windows too many times.
If you're feeling guilty about the detour, go back across the river and make a reservation for dinner at Balzar, which will make you feel better. But it's not dinner time yet, so a stroll to the Jardin du Luxembourg gives you the opportunity to sit down at the café in the garden to rest your feet and think about what it must have looked like when Marie de Medici lived in the Palace. Then back to Balzar for dinner and afterwards a walk back along the Boulevard St-Germain for a nightcap at one of the cafés and home...or maybe a movie at Odeon?
Aug 31st, 2004, 08:28 PM
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Okay, the Beatchick has her day planned out. A little proviso, though, Degas, with your permission; I'd rather take someone who's been to Paris a few times but generally sees the same touristy stuff because he's usually leading around people who've never been. Since I've done the same when I've gone with someone, this could be fun for us both.
Because hotel prices are no barrier I'd stay in room #70 (top floor) at the Hotel Parc St-Severin. After all, this is fantasy and I'd be able to get that room without any problems, no, cherie? Exactement!
Let's see, it'll be a Sunday, so?
Start early with brunch at A La Cour de Rohan, 59-61 rue St-Andre-des-Arts. (16&euro
Walk thru the Cour de Rohan, said to be one of the most remarkable "hidden" courtyards in Paris. Then a stroll through the Passage Dauphine on our way to La place de Furstenberg, to the Musée National Eugene Delacroix, which opens at 9:30. http://www.musee-delacroix.fr/
Around noonish we'd have tea at Tea & Tattered Pages and feed our love of books while browsing. 24 rue Mayet in the 6th (http://mapage.noos.fr/ttp/) (5&euro
Then on to Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-la-Medaille Miraculeuse -140, r. du Bac to check out the very weird preserved-nun-under-glass, Catherine Laboure. (http://www.forteantimes.com/articles...reserved.shtml)
Bon Marché (obviously!).
Lunch at the Café Jardin Musée Rodin after perusing the gardens and statuary (would one relegate Rodin's works to mere statuary?). (10&euro
On to Michel Chaudun, chocolatier, 149 rue de l'Université, to pick up some chocolates to take home. (10&euro
Check out where the James Joyces lived at 9, rue de l'Universite, where Henry & June Miller lived at 24, rue Bonaparte, and where Hem & Hadley lived on 30, rue Bonaparte. I understand that the Hemingways stayed at the nearby Hotel d'Angleterre, one of our Scarlett's fave hotels.
We'd buy a couple of baby macarons from Ladurée on rue Bonaparte, very affordable at 1.25€ each. (2.50&euro
Hang out at Place St-Germain-des-Pres and go inside the church.
Walk down boulevard St-Germain, down the rue de Seine, looking at art galleries, then through the archway at the end to catch a dazzling glimpse of the Louvre across from the Pont des Arts.
Toast the sunset on the Pont des Arts with the wine purchased from the Bon Marché (10&euro and steal a kiss from my lover.
Hang out for a bit around the Ecole National des Beaux-Arts.
Off to 83, rue de la Tombe Issoire Montparnasse for dinner and conversation at Writer, Traveller, Publisher, Paris Sunday Dinner Host Jim Haynes' place (recommended to me by a wonderful lurker Cincinnatian friend, Sandye). http://www.jim-haynes.com/ I believe cost per person is 20€. But just before dinner, I'd pop into nearby Villa Seurat to see where Henry Miller used to live during his Tropic of Cancer days.
We'd each now have a 1.50€ each for le Metro back to the hotel!
Okay, admittedly, that's a VERY FULL DAY but it is, after all, one mere day in Paris!
Because hotel prices are no barrier I'd stay in room #70 (top floor) at the Hotel Parc St-Severin. After all, this is fantasy and I'd be able to get that room without any problems, no, cherie? Exactement!
Let's see, it'll be a Sunday, so?
Start early with brunch at A La Cour de Rohan, 59-61 rue St-Andre-des-Arts. (16&euro
Walk thru the Cour de Rohan, said to be one of the most remarkable "hidden" courtyards in Paris. Then a stroll through the Passage Dauphine on our way to La place de Furstenberg, to the Musée National Eugene Delacroix, which opens at 9:30. http://www.musee-delacroix.fr/
Around noonish we'd have tea at Tea & Tattered Pages and feed our love of books while browsing. 24 rue Mayet in the 6th (http://mapage.noos.fr/ttp/) (5&euro
Then on to Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-la-Medaille Miraculeuse -140, r. du Bac to check out the very weird preserved-nun-under-glass, Catherine Laboure. (http://www.forteantimes.com/articles...reserved.shtml)
Bon Marché (obviously!).
Lunch at the Café Jardin Musée Rodin after perusing the gardens and statuary (would one relegate Rodin's works to mere statuary?). (10&euro
On to Michel Chaudun, chocolatier, 149 rue de l'Université, to pick up some chocolates to take home. (10&euro
Check out where the James Joyces lived at 9, rue de l'Universite, where Henry & June Miller lived at 24, rue Bonaparte, and where Hem & Hadley lived on 30, rue Bonaparte. I understand that the Hemingways stayed at the nearby Hotel d'Angleterre, one of our Scarlett's fave hotels.
We'd buy a couple of baby macarons from Ladurée on rue Bonaparte, very affordable at 1.25€ each. (2.50&euro
Hang out at Place St-Germain-des-Pres and go inside the church.
Walk down boulevard St-Germain, down the rue de Seine, looking at art galleries, then through the archway at the end to catch a dazzling glimpse of the Louvre across from the Pont des Arts.
Toast the sunset on the Pont des Arts with the wine purchased from the Bon Marché (10&euro
and steal a kiss from my lover.Hang out for a bit around the Ecole National des Beaux-Arts.
Off to 83, rue de la Tombe Issoire Montparnasse for dinner and conversation at Writer, Traveller, Publisher, Paris Sunday Dinner Host Jim Haynes' place (recommended to me by a wonderful lurker Cincinnatian friend, Sandye). http://www.jim-haynes.com/ I believe cost per person is 20€. But just before dinner, I'd pop into nearby Villa Seurat to see where Henry Miller used to live during his Tropic of Cancer days.
We'd each now have a 1.50€ each for le Metro back to the hotel!
Okay, admittedly, that's a VERY FULL DAY but it is, after all, one mere day in Paris!
Aug 31st, 2004, 09:11 PM
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I had lunch at Cafe de Flore because it had been featured in the "Paris" episode of "Absolutely Fabulous" and just knowing that Pats and Eddie had been there was historic enough for me. I just need to find out which restaurant Eddie and Saffy ate at.
Sep 1st, 2004, 03:30 AM
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More great inputs. Is one day really enough? I think not.
shellio, your on vacation so a little "cheating is in order. Café des Lettres, with its Scandinavian lunch, is now in my notes.
Beatchick, what a fine day you laid out. Your love of Paris is obvious. I've also been meaning to check out Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-la-Medaille Miraculeuse.
shellio, your on vacation so a little "cheating is in order. Café des Lettres, with its Scandinavian lunch, is now in my notes.
Beatchick, what a fine day you laid out. Your love of Paris is obvious. I've also been meaning to check out Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-la-Medaille Miraculeuse.
Sep 1st, 2004, 07:30 AM
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Hey Degas!
This was such a fun thread and I'm constantly fantasizing about my next trip to Paris that I had to post!! Except for the macarons everything is from my next projected trip itinerary for Paris (sans kids).
I had only gone thru half of the posts before I decided to post my own - I didn't want to be influenced by what others had; so many great ideas. It's really enjoyable reading everyone's different ideas. Anyway, I noticed you and I had some of the same ideas for things to do in Paris, i.e. Cour de Rohan and the Place de Furstenberg. Funny, last trip I walked down the rue Jacob and looked DOWN to the Place but was in a hurry to get to the d'Orsay and thought I'd come back but never made it that trip. So I've SEEN it, just never walked THRU it!
My friend reminded me that I forgot about a kiss by the Medici fountain in the Jardin du Luxembourg, so to amend my day plan, we'd probably meander thru the Jardin, grab that quick kiss by the romantic Medici fountain on our way down to Tea & Tattered Pages. He also mentioned going thru the reduced price CD bins on the boul' Mich' - but OF COURSE!!
Alternatively, I'd like to meander thru the Butte aux Cailles and around the Place d'Italie, then wander thru the rue Mouffetard, eat vendor crepes all day, have a drink on the top of Tour Montparnasse while watching the sun set behind la Tour Eiffel, dine at Le Petit St-Benoit in the 6th, and finish up with some great jazz somewhere, perhaps Le Franc Pinot on the Quai de Bourbon on the Ile St-Louis, then walk back to the hotel, stealing a kiss amidst the shadow of Notre Dame on the way!!
Abientot!!
This was such a fun thread and I'm constantly fantasizing about my next trip to Paris that I had to post!! Except for the macarons everything is from my next projected trip itinerary for Paris (sans kids).
I had only gone thru half of the posts before I decided to post my own - I didn't want to be influenced by what others had; so many great ideas. It's really enjoyable reading everyone's different ideas. Anyway, I noticed you and I had some of the same ideas for things to do in Paris, i.e. Cour de Rohan and the Place de Furstenberg. Funny, last trip I walked down the rue Jacob and looked DOWN to the Place but was in a hurry to get to the d'Orsay and thought I'd come back but never made it that trip. So I've SEEN it, just never walked THRU it!
My friend reminded me that I forgot about a kiss by the Medici fountain in the Jardin du Luxembourg, so to amend my day plan, we'd probably meander thru the Jardin, grab that quick kiss by the romantic Medici fountain on our way down to Tea & Tattered Pages. He also mentioned going thru the reduced price CD bins on the boul' Mich' - but OF COURSE!!
Alternatively, I'd like to meander thru the Butte aux Cailles and around the Place d'Italie, then wander thru the rue Mouffetard, eat vendor crepes all day, have a drink on the top of Tour Montparnasse while watching the sun set behind la Tour Eiffel, dine at Le Petit St-Benoit in the 6th, and finish up with some great jazz somewhere, perhaps Le Franc Pinot on the Quai de Bourbon on the Ile St-Louis, then walk back to the hotel, stealing a kiss amidst the shadow of Notre Dame on the way!!
Abientot!!
Sep 2nd, 2004, 11:09 AM
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You guys are kliing me talk about cruel and unusual punishment
Ok, haven't been to Paris since January last year and all of this thread is doing is make my line of credit look very juicy indeed..ready to be picked!
As I flip through my blue Michelin guide...place de furstemberg...
Other places I like on the Left Bank include walking both above and below the street along the Seine, heading east towards Tour D'Argent restaurant. Also like the sculpture park along the bank.. I believe this is where you see people doing outdoor ballroom dancing at night sometimes...
Perhaps the Lutece Arena (from Roman times) to complement the Musee de la Moyenne Age...
I like the restaurant called Montebello along here because it has a terrasse with a view of Notre Dame...
Like to pop into the courtyard of the Musee des Beaux art to see the colonnaded walkway and the works of outdoor art...
Discovered the tiny shop on Rue de Seine specializing in items related to Le Petit Prince (where else but Paris!)
Perhaps a nighttime concert at St Julien le Pauvre. One tour I took told of how in the older days they use to give university lectures outside in the square..this being in the times of Abelard..
On Esplanade des Invalides enjoyed watching people playing soccer, and even more so some old fellas playing boules. Nearby, Napoleon's tomb is worth a visit, and then for some real going back in time the Musee de L'Armee..knights in shining armour and the works...
Marriage Freres for a spot of tea..if you can choose from the wide selection..
Dinner at Chez Rene on St Germain, Moulin a Vent - Chez Henry on Fosses St Bernard, or Rottiserie du Beaujolais along the Seine. And any bridge over the Seine..at night...buildings lit up..bateau mouches ambling by with their lights...nice day
Desperately longing to go...
Mike
talk about cruel and unusual punishment Ok, haven't been to Paris since January last year and all of this thread is doing is make my line of credit look very juicy indeed..ready to be picked!
As I flip through my blue Michelin guide...place de furstemberg...
Other places I like on the Left Bank include walking both above and below the street along the Seine, heading east towards Tour D'Argent restaurant. Also like the sculpture park along the bank.. I believe this is where you see people doing outdoor ballroom dancing at night sometimes...
Perhaps the Lutece Arena (from Roman times) to complement the Musee de la Moyenne Age...
I like the restaurant called Montebello along here because it has a terrasse with a view of Notre Dame...
Like to pop into the courtyard of the Musee des Beaux art to see the colonnaded walkway and the works of outdoor art...
Discovered the tiny shop on Rue de Seine specializing in items related to Le Petit Prince (where else but Paris!)
Perhaps a nighttime concert at St Julien le Pauvre. One tour I took told of how in the older days they use to give university lectures outside in the square..this being in the times of Abelard..
On Esplanade des Invalides enjoyed watching people playing soccer, and even more so some old fellas playing boules. Nearby, Napoleon's tomb is worth a visit, and then for some real going back in time the Musee de L'Armee..knights in shining armour and the works...
Marriage Freres for a spot of tea..if you can choose from the wide selection..
Dinner at Chez Rene on St Germain, Moulin a Vent - Chez Henry on Fosses St Bernard, or Rottiserie du Beaujolais along the Seine. And any bridge over the Seine..at night...buildings lit up..bateau mouches ambling by with their lights...nice day
Desperately longing to go...
Mike
