Paris Paris Paris
Jun 27th, 2022 | 10:47 PM
#61
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,502
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Ooooh I am so sorry denisea 
. It is so hard to watch our babies go into decline. My former cat also needed sub-q fluids, but she hated it. It was hard. I hope you still get lots of good tail-wagging time and sweet snuggles.
Lol, I feel vindicated if kerouac also doesn't love the Luxembourg Gardens! But I bet that's the only Gardens we agree on -- I am quite the tourist
. It is so hard to watch our babies go into decline. My former cat also needed sub-q fluids, but she hated it. It was hard. I hope you still get lots of good tail-wagging time and sweet snuggles.Lol, I feel vindicated if kerouac also doesn't love the Luxembourg Gardens! But I bet that's the only Gardens we agree on -- I am quite the tourist
Jun 27th, 2022 | 10:54 PM
#62
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Tuesday 7 June
Deep dive into 1977 today, sorry, so boring. I saw the old school building (Schiller College) on Ave de Segur, then took the bus to where my maid’s room was on Rue Octave Feuillet, then walked back to the Eiffel Tower. Strangely, the bus numbers were exactly the same, but one bus stop had been relocated. Afterwards, I meant to catch a bus from the Eiffel Tower, which was an actual zoo. Nerve-wracking. I waited about 30 minutes, then found another bus route, and the driver said there was a problem on the route. Ah well, got home eventually. In the past few days, I’ve been grabbing pastries on my way home… gonna miss those!
The old Schiller College
Always loved this street
Cafe Vauban, where I used to catch the bus
This is the end of Ave Henri Martin, and it used to be basically the end of town. The bus turned around here, and there was almost no traffic. This traffic jam shows how things have changed.
The building where my maid's room was, on Rue Octave Feuillet
Just love this area
And some art deco gems
The circus
Deep dive into 1977 today, sorry, so boring. I saw the old school building (Schiller College) on Ave de Segur, then took the bus to where my maid’s room was on Rue Octave Feuillet, then walked back to the Eiffel Tower. Strangely, the bus numbers were exactly the same, but one bus stop had been relocated. Afterwards, I meant to catch a bus from the Eiffel Tower, which was an actual zoo. Nerve-wracking. I waited about 30 minutes, then found another bus route, and the driver said there was a problem on the route. Ah well, got home eventually. In the past few days, I’ve been grabbing pastries on my way home… gonna miss those!
The old Schiller College
Always loved this street
Cafe Vauban, where I used to catch the bus
This is the end of Ave Henri Martin, and it used to be basically the end of town. The bus turned around here, and there was almost no traffic. This traffic jam shows how things have changed.
The building where my maid's room was, on Rue Octave Feuillet
Just love this area
And some art deco gems
The circus
Jun 28th, 2022 | 04:55 AM
#65
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
Hi Swandav, looking for something to distract me in my covid haze, I was trawling Fodors and found your delightful TR! how did I miss it?
Loving all the photos and stories of your time there, the parts we shared and and the parts we didn't. So much more to go back and see - les passages, the Marais which I hardly know at all and much else. A good excuse for another visit.
Loving all the photos and stories of your time there, the parts we shared and and the parts we didn't. So much more to go back and see - les passages, the Marais which I hardly know at all and much else. A good excuse for another visit.
Jun 28th, 2022 | 06:31 AM
#66
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 16,283
Likes: 0
I have never been a fan of the Luxembourg Gardens either. They are probably good for people unwilling or unable to explore the other fantastic parks in Paris. This is probably a good things for us Parisians. Whenever I hear foreign languages spoken in most of the other parks, the people are still local residents and not just tourists.
No, I have nothing against tourists. I am one when I go anywhere else;
No, I have nothing against tourists. I am one when I go anywhere else;
Most tourists visit Paris for several days , there is so much to see in the city that visiting , however lovely, parks is usually low on the list.
One time I went to see Parc Monceau, to get there and explore the area took hours.
Jun 28th, 2022 | 08:51 PM
#67
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,502
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Lol, AJPeabody! Actually it is verboten in Germany to publish photos of people with recognizable faces; I think the same rule applies in France, but it is less observed there (I once had a German matron wag her finger at me as she crossed in front of me while I was still composing the shot...). I've just gotten in the habit of waiting until all the people and cars have passed. I'm pretty good at composing and then waiting, with my finger poised, for that split milli-second when the scene is clear.
kerouac, lol. How about on Ave Henri Martin?? In the year I lived there, I used to like to stroll the street after dark and see that luxe life all lit up inside. The street was filled with CD cars....
Hi annhig! Well there was a large gap between the trip and my getting around to posting the TR. Oooh and yes. There are so many layers of Paris.... there is always a new reason for the next visit!
kerouac, lol. How about on Ave Henri Martin?? In the year I lived there, I used to like to stroll the street after dark and see that luxe life all lit up inside. The street was filled with CD cars....
Hi annhig! Well there was a large gap between the trip and my getting around to posting the TR. Oooh and yes. There are so many layers of Paris.... there is always a new reason for the next visit!
Jun 28th, 2022 | 08:59 PM
#68
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,502
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Wednesday 8 June
Day of the Cheese Explosion.
I started the day with a stroll around Rue des Rosiers and Rue du Trésor. Then I attended the Cheese Explosion.
Paris By Mouth tour agency runs wonderful market tours in several places in the Marais and the 6th, I think. They also run cheese & wine workshops, where you sit and eat selected cheeses paired with selected wines for 2 hours. It. Is. Sublime. I’ve done this workshop 2 or 3 times, I think, and loved each one. After their Covid shutdown, they replaced it with the Cheese Explosion and offer 10 cheeses and about 6 wines. I just got the follow-up email with the details of all that we ate, and the below is a part of what she wrote – you can see the kind of detail and information she shares.
GOAT CHEESES - Tasted with a Non-Vintage Crémant d'Alsace AOC from Edmund Rentz (100% Pinot Noir from Alsace)
• Trèfle du Perche (goat, Perche, 10 days) - this ash covered and clover shaped cheese is relatively new, having been first created in 2005. It has a snow white interior and a very lactic tang, with flavors of milk and almonds. Light, creamy, smooth and not as tart or chalky as its Loire Valley cousins.
• Rocamadour AOC (goat, Midi-Pyrénées in the south, 1-3 weeks) - tender and creamy pâte, it tastes mild and milky with a nutty aftertaste
BLOOMY RIND - Tasted with a Non-Vintage Crémant d'Alsace AOC from Edmund Rentz (100% Pinot Noir from Alsace)
• Brillat-Savarin (cow, Normandy/Burgundy, aged 2-4 weeks) - this triple cheese is named after the food writer Anthelme Brillat-Savarin and in winter is often stuffed with truffles
• Coulommiers (cow, Ile-de-France, 4-7 weeks) - this cheese doesn't carry the name Brie, but many consider it to be the "mother Brie" who spawned the style. Its flavors are lactic and mild on the spectrum of Brie, but it has the characteristic runny interior and bloomy rind.
Waiting for a connecting bus on Blvd St Germaine. Why I avoid the metro.
Rue des Rosiers
Rue du Trésor
The group meeting
A master frommager on Rue St Antoine
My heart melts....
Such a warm and wonderful place to sit and eat cheese, drink wine, share stories, and chat.
Day of the Cheese Explosion.
I started the day with a stroll around Rue des Rosiers and Rue du Trésor. Then I attended the Cheese Explosion.
Paris By Mouth tour agency runs wonderful market tours in several places in the Marais and the 6th, I think. They also run cheese & wine workshops, where you sit and eat selected cheeses paired with selected wines for 2 hours. It. Is. Sublime. I’ve done this workshop 2 or 3 times, I think, and loved each one. After their Covid shutdown, they replaced it with the Cheese Explosion and offer 10 cheeses and about 6 wines. I just got the follow-up email with the details of all that we ate, and the below is a part of what she wrote – you can see the kind of detail and information she shares.
GOAT CHEESES - Tasted with a Non-Vintage Crémant d'Alsace AOC from Edmund Rentz (100% Pinot Noir from Alsace)
• Trèfle du Perche (goat, Perche, 10 days) - this ash covered and clover shaped cheese is relatively new, having been first created in 2005. It has a snow white interior and a very lactic tang, with flavors of milk and almonds. Light, creamy, smooth and not as tart or chalky as its Loire Valley cousins.
• Rocamadour AOC (goat, Midi-Pyrénées in the south, 1-3 weeks) - tender and creamy pâte, it tastes mild and milky with a nutty aftertaste
BLOOMY RIND - Tasted with a Non-Vintage Crémant d'Alsace AOC from Edmund Rentz (100% Pinot Noir from Alsace)
• Brillat-Savarin (cow, Normandy/Burgundy, aged 2-4 weeks) - this triple cheese is named after the food writer Anthelme Brillat-Savarin and in winter is often stuffed with truffles
• Coulommiers (cow, Ile-de-France, 4-7 weeks) - this cheese doesn't carry the name Brie, but many consider it to be the "mother Brie" who spawned the style. Its flavors are lactic and mild on the spectrum of Brie, but it has the characteristic runny interior and bloomy rind.
Waiting for a connecting bus on Blvd St Germaine. Why I avoid the metro.
Rue des Rosiers
Rue du Trésor
The group meeting
A master frommager on Rue St Antoine
My heart melts....
Such a warm and wonderful place to sit and eat cheese, drink wine, share stories, and chat.
Jun 29th, 2022 | 02:52 AM
#70
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 24,034
Likes: 6
All of our ex-pat managers were housed in a huge apartment on avenue Henri Martin, and you don't want to know the sorts of things they did there. We pretty much had to pay double for the cleaning services when they moved out.
Jun 29th, 2022 | 09:22 AM
#71
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,502
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Whoaaaa! kerouac, you have shattered my tender illusions of that luxe life, lol. I needed that bit of leveling. Now I'll have better things to imagine when I stroll there.
Well, this is the end of the trip and the report. I did have another day in Paris, but I spent it searching for a baggie, lol. I had arrived by train but left by plane (in order to get home early in the day), and I had totally forgotten to pack a 1 liter bag for liquids for the flight home. Since I was in a location I wasn’t so familiar with, I didn’t know which grocery shops would be the largest. In the end, I searched 6 grocery shops and 2 pharmacies (one of which looked at me like I was nuts, and another that sent me to Sephora or Marionnaud, who would “for sure” have baggies). The grocery stores had lots of baggies, but the 1 liter size was always sold out… empty shelves. I finally found them, but they were sized by small, medium, large. I had no idea if 1 liter was small or medium. I found some medium, discussed the problem with the cashier and a very friendly person in line, and bought them. They were the right size, and I almost went back in and hugged the checkout lady. Anyway.
After the search, I had a most wonderful cheeseburger at Ô’Cocher Table, near the Bon Marché; it is rated 4.8 at Google. For an American living in Germany, it is a wonderful thing to find a fat, tasty cheeseburger. Yummmm.
The return went mostly smoothly, as the G7 taxi came at the appointed time to get me to the airport. CDG was fine, but then again it was an inta-Europe flight. There was a problem getting from Munich airport to my home, however, as there had been a deadly train derailment outside Garmisch just days before, and the track was closed (it still is). There was a replacement bus to take the train passengers from Oberau to Garmisch, but we had to wait about 15 minutes before it showed up. And it was packed. They were using a regular town bus instead of a long-distance bus, and you could not have squeezed in a bread box. As we went whistling down the road and over the overpass near the derailment, I thought how bad it would be if the over-loaded replacement bus capsized. Thank goodness, it didn’t.
….I am already planning my next trip …..
Well, this is the end of the trip and the report. I did have another day in Paris, but I spent it searching for a baggie, lol. I had arrived by train but left by plane (in order to get home early in the day), and I had totally forgotten to pack a 1 liter bag for liquids for the flight home. Since I was in a location I wasn’t so familiar with, I didn’t know which grocery shops would be the largest. In the end, I searched 6 grocery shops and 2 pharmacies (one of which looked at me like I was nuts, and another that sent me to Sephora or Marionnaud, who would “for sure” have baggies). The grocery stores had lots of baggies, but the 1 liter size was always sold out… empty shelves. I finally found them, but they were sized by small, medium, large. I had no idea if 1 liter was small or medium. I found some medium, discussed the problem with the cashier and a very friendly person in line, and bought them. They were the right size, and I almost went back in and hugged the checkout lady. Anyway.
After the search, I had a most wonderful cheeseburger at Ô’Cocher Table, near the Bon Marché; it is rated 4.8 at Google. For an American living in Germany, it is a wonderful thing to find a fat, tasty cheeseburger. Yummmm.
The return went mostly smoothly, as the G7 taxi came at the appointed time to get me to the airport. CDG was fine, but then again it was an inta-Europe flight. There was a problem getting from Munich airport to my home, however, as there had been a deadly train derailment outside Garmisch just days before, and the track was closed (it still is). There was a replacement bus to take the train passengers from Oberau to Garmisch, but we had to wait about 15 minutes before it showed up. And it was packed. They were using a regular town bus instead of a long-distance bus, and you could not have squeezed in a bread box. As we went whistling down the road and over the overpass near the derailment, I thought how bad it would be if the over-loaded replacement bus capsized. Thank goodness, it didn’t.
….I am already planning my next trip …..
Jun 29th, 2022 | 12:58 PM
#73
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,651
Likes: 3
Now that I'm back from Paris, just a few comments, since I missed your report. First, as usual, wonderful photos!
On the Luxembourg Gardens: I respectfully disagree with your lack of partiality to this park, but for good reason. Our "home" (the hotel we've stayed at since 1983) in the 14th is a few blocks from the southwest part of the gardens. So it was always an easy walk, and a favorite place for our son to go to since he was 13 months old (wonderful playgrounds for him - he's now 33!). Also loved seeing just south of the park, the Fontaine de l'Observatoire in the Jardin Marco Polo, which was featured in the movie, Gigi. But my favorite part of the park is something that not everyone sees . . . the section of espalier fruit trees that go back to the park's roots (no pun intended). I love those trees so much that after we moved into our small house with the big backyard in 1998 in Los Angeles, I created in front of the rear retaining wall my espalier fruit tree garden, which now boasts apples, pears, persimmons, blood oranges, and tangerines. A few other great memories I have of the Luxembourg Gardens is the Paris picnic on Bastille Day that runs the length of the park from the south to the north, and the sailboats favored by children in the big pond by the Palace.
I smiled at your photos of Place de la Contrascarpe, les Arenes du Lutece, and rue Mouffetard. That was our last day in Paris, on the 21st June, which I didn't know was a big day in Paris! I've been to the Arenes since my Paris friend first brought me there in 1973. But I wanted to come back to Contrascarpe, because it was one of the last days in 2012 I spent in a Cafe with my mom (her last trip to Paris before she passed away), after visiting the outside of Hemingway's and James Joyce's apartments.
Now, we generally like going to Paris around Bastille Day because of the bals and the fireworks, so I knew nothing about France having a big Festival of Music on the 21st of June . . . free music all around Paris (and lots of gendarmes walking about in full gear with weapons, just in case!). I wanted to get some good French pizza (which I happen to prefer to Italian pizza) for our last evening. Found a place near Church Saint Sulpice in the 6th called Pizzeria Positano. As we got out of the Metro, there was live music everywhere, inside and outside of bars, and in front of the Church as well, with a stage and throngs of people dancing! And this continued all the way to the Pizzeria, where we had a lovely pizza dinner outside on the sidewalk with music everywhere. What a great last night!
On the Luxembourg Gardens: I respectfully disagree with your lack of partiality to this park, but for good reason. Our "home" (the hotel we've stayed at since 1983) in the 14th is a few blocks from the southwest part of the gardens. So it was always an easy walk, and a favorite place for our son to go to since he was 13 months old (wonderful playgrounds for him - he's now 33!). Also loved seeing just south of the park, the Fontaine de l'Observatoire in the Jardin Marco Polo, which was featured in the movie, Gigi. But my favorite part of the park is something that not everyone sees . . . the section of espalier fruit trees that go back to the park's roots (no pun intended). I love those trees so much that after we moved into our small house with the big backyard in 1998 in Los Angeles, I created in front of the rear retaining wall my espalier fruit tree garden, which now boasts apples, pears, persimmons, blood oranges, and tangerines. A few other great memories I have of the Luxembourg Gardens is the Paris picnic on Bastille Day that runs the length of the park from the south to the north, and the sailboats favored by children in the big pond by the Palace.
I smiled at your photos of Place de la Contrascarpe, les Arenes du Lutece, and rue Mouffetard. That was our last day in Paris, on the 21st June, which I didn't know was a big day in Paris! I've been to the Arenes since my Paris friend first brought me there in 1973. But I wanted to come back to Contrascarpe, because it was one of the last days in 2012 I spent in a Cafe with my mom (her last trip to Paris before she passed away), after visiting the outside of Hemingway's and James Joyce's apartments.
Now, we generally like going to Paris around Bastille Day because of the bals and the fireworks, so I knew nothing about France having a big Festival of Music on the 21st of June . . . free music all around Paris (and lots of gendarmes walking about in full gear with weapons, just in case!). I wanted to get some good French pizza (which I happen to prefer to Italian pizza) for our last evening. Found a place near Church Saint Sulpice in the 6th called Pizzeria Positano. As we got out of the Metro, there was live music everywhere, inside and outside of bars, and in front of the Church as well, with a stage and throngs of people dancing! And this continued all the way to the Pizzeria, where we had a lovely pizza dinner outside on the sidewalk with music everywhere. What a great last night!
Jun 29th, 2022 | 06:24 PM
#75
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 0
Laurent Dubois…we rented an apartment near the one in the 5th and had the best bleu cheese we got there. On our last trip to Paris, we did Paris by Mouth’s cheese workshop with Jennifer Greco.i think there were 13 cheeses and all wonderful. Our setting was not as cool as yours but it was heaven on earth to me!
great report!!
great report!!
Jun 29th, 2022 | 11:42 PM
#76
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,502
Likes: 0
That is so true, kerouac! Plus, you are looking at the brick wall of your vacation -- the end of it -- and I, at least, usually have regrets about all that I didn't do. So my last day or two are usually antsy and impatient.
Thank you, Surfergirl! I'm glad you enjoy LG, and it's especially wonderful because you have such great memories of it with your son! Yup that was definitely a terrific last night! Well done, lol!
Thank you so much, Adelaidean!
I think the first cheese/wine thing I did was with the same woman, Jennifer. And I've done it in various locales in Paris, one of which was a Japanese knife shop, if you can believe that! The best thing is always the cheese! Thank you! Looking forward to your own.. a bittersweet one.... maybe more bitter.
Thank you, Surfergirl! I'm glad you enjoy LG, and it's especially wonderful because you have such great memories of it with your son! Yup that was definitely a terrific last night! Well done, lol!
Thank you so much, Adelaidean!
I think the first cheese/wine thing I did was with the same woman, Jennifer. And I've done it in various locales in Paris, one of which was a Japanese knife shop, if you can believe that! The best thing is always the cheese! Thank you! Looking forward to your own.. a bittersweet one.... maybe more bitter.
Jul 20th, 2022 | 10:36 AM
#77
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
Just a suggestion when you are posting pictures. If you hit the return button under each picture before you upload them, it will leave a small white space between the pictures when they post. It’s so much easier to view the pictures if they are not connected to each other. 😉
Jul 21st, 2022 | 01:27 PM
#78
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,552
Likes: 0
I'm very glad I saw this, so thanks to Debbielynn for topping.
Wonderful report, as usual, Swandav, and great photos! Bookmarking this for a future trip. I'm sorry to read about the tragedy that caused the delay and inconvenience for your trip home... We hate delays, no matter the cause but I always think it's better on the way back than on the way to, if one has to experience them at all.
Wonderful report, as usual, Swandav, and great photos! Bookmarking this for a future trip. I'm sorry to read about the tragedy that caused the delay and inconvenience for your trip home... We hate delays, no matter the cause but I always think it's better on the way back than on the way to, if one has to experience them at all.
Aug 24th, 2022 | 11:31 PM
#79
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,502
Likes: 0
Hi Trophywife007,
Sorry it's taken me so long to reply, and awfully glad you enjoyed the photos! I look forward to hearing about your future Paris trip, and I hope it'll be soon!
Yes, that accident has been tough to deal with. One of the victims was a young Ukrainian mom who had recently arrived in Garmisch, escaping the Russian invasion. We were all stunned. And also, the trains are still not running on that portion of track, and won't be until maybe mid-Sep.
Thanks again, all
s
Sorry it's taken me so long to reply, and awfully glad you enjoyed the photos! I look forward to hearing about your future Paris trip, and I hope it'll be soon!
Yes, that accident has been tough to deal with. One of the victims was a young Ukrainian mom who had recently arrived in Garmisch, escaping the Russian invasion. We were all stunned. And also, the trains are still not running on that portion of track, and won't be until maybe mid-Sep.
Thanks again, all
s
