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Paris Hotel Bonaparte: Is this a neighborhood with good bistro, people watching, etc?

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Paris Hotel Bonaparte: Is this a neighborhood with good bistro, people watching, etc?

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Old Oct 24th, 2006, 06:06 AM
  #21  
 
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"...which can give a more authentic Paris experience, even to the first time visitor."

With the greatest of respect, what is not "authentic' about the pasrt of Paris under discussion? It is IN Paris isn't it? Whether you like it or not this part of the city has obviously evolved in a certain fashion and to imply that it somehow isn't the "real" city seems perhaps a bit odd.

I'm not convinced a lot of first-time visitors necessarily WANT to be in those areas which some seem to feel reflect the "more real" or "more authentic" Paris..at least not for their first visit.

As to the Bonaparte, or any other hotel, I would agree with Ira...people stay in certain places for a variety of reasons some of which are more important than others. And I have no doubt that those people's experiences were for them at just as high a level as anyone else's.

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Old Oct 24th, 2006, 06:23 AM
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Ok. A couple of years ago I stayed at my sister's appartment in the 16th, near Metro Michel Ange. Not a touristy area. Small farmer's market twice week, nice local shops, small restaurants that only locals go to, a slice of everyday Parisian life. The Eiffel Tower was a 30 minute walk, but apart from that, there is nothing for a first time paris visitor to see. I've been to Paris many times, staying centrally, so this was a neat experience. At night, it was very quiet, nothing much open.


And yes, I'd like to live in an area like this, but when I was there I needed to Metro to go to there areas I (and other tourists) would like to visit. Convenience would suggest staying in Central Paris when you are visiting. I like the idea of walking out of the door of my hotel and being walking distance (or a short metro trip) to what I want to see.

That being said, on my next trip to Paris this november, I'll once again be staying in the 16th, for the simple reason that the hotel rates are cheaper. So I'll get the 'local' flavour, save some money, but accept that I'll be on the metro every day.
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Old Oct 24th, 2006, 07:22 AM
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To Dukey,

What I simply meant is that fashion big names, decoration shops, art galleries, antique dealers are not elements of most people's "daily life". Besides, what those businesses sell is basically what is sold everywhere.

Some decades ago the 6th-7th had a variety of commerce. Many bookshops of course, but also greengrocers, bakers, etc. This mix is still found in some areas in Paris, maybe not for long.


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Old Oct 24th, 2006, 08:25 AM
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Hi Tru,

>What I simply meant is that fashion big names, decoration shops, art galleries, antique dealers are not elements of most people's "daily life".<

I think we get your point.

OTOH, lots of visitors are not interested in the daily life of the locals. They want to see the (fill in name here) that they have heard and read about.

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Old Oct 24th, 2006, 08:33 AM
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Well, there are good reasons why places are considered touristy. It doesn't make them bad places just more crowded.
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Old Oct 24th, 2006, 12:18 PM
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Cabo-thanks for your kind remark-I could say that I am truly a nomad at heart, and have been studying, living working traveling in Europe and other parts since I was a young college student-I've always been happiest when on the road, and in many ways, I'm far more comfortable in European culture, since my closest friends are there as well. But I luckily live in a very international environment here, so I can frequently go to Europe by going to European embassy parties, which can be QUITE entertaining!

Julienas-actually, I think there are official boundaries for the Latin Quarter, and the part of the 6th arr. that includes St. Sulpice is included within that definition-see Wikipedia article:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quartier_Latin

Trudaine-I agree with much of your assessment about the loss of authenticity in the LQ, but for the occasional or first-time tourist, this area, filled as it is with other tourists, American chain stores and other trappings of mass tourism (in addition to its landmark sights) will always be much more comfortable than those areas that retain more local, less English-speaking, and less touristed, Parisian flavor.

As to the cost of real estate in the Latin Quarter, yes indeed, one can do very well if one owns property in this area. In this sense, my artist friend there is VERY lucky: her parents bequeathed to her a large 18th century apartment just off the Blvd. St. Germain, on a very fashionable street. She rents it out to an American who made a fortune at 40, and then hightailed it to Paris, where he has been renting FOR THE LAST 10 ODD YEARS. Oh the stories she's told me-tooo funny! (My friend, (his landlord) had a crush on him, but alas, it was not returned). Apparently, all he does is hang out, picking up the latest in a string of young European girlfriends-for shame! what hedonism! (smile). At least I can say that I know of someone who's still leading a somewhat Bohemian lifestyle in the Latin Quarter-albeit at a rarefied level!
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Old Oct 24th, 2006, 07:33 PM
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My husband and I AND 2 other couples stayed at the Hotel Bonaparte for a week in September. We couldn't have been more pleased. Each room was more than satisfactory. The staff was warm and welcoming. Breakfast was served each morning in a small but adequate room just off the lobby. As for the area around the hotel, we found it "involved" yet not overwhelmed by crowds of any sort, tourist or not. While the Hotel might technically be in the Latin Quarter, it is a pretty good walk to the intersection of St. Germaine and St. Michel, where the activity and noise really pick up. After a full day of touring, we were grateful for the peace and quiet of Bonaparte.
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Old Oct 24th, 2006, 07:49 PM
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I just read Elaine's comments on ezboard. Shock is my reaction! Our 3 different rooms were located on the 5th floor. Two of them were larger; one was smaller. All 3 rooms were well groomed! I am puzzled by Elaine's experience of Hotel Bonaparte. Maybe they have started renovating the rooms from the top floor down. I noted that her room was on the first floor.
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Old Oct 25th, 2006, 05:17 AM
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^^ I read Elaine's review also. It struck me that maybe she just has very high standards, and, indeed, as she suspected, simply did not belong in a 2 star hotel. These things are so hard to judge when you don't actually know the person.

I mean, we all have friends who would no sooner consider staying at a small European 2 or 3 star hotel than they'd consider camping!
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Old Oct 25th, 2006, 08:16 AM
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True. Not everyone's idea of a 'nice' hotel room will be the same thing. Also keep in mind that if a hotel has renovated and unrenovated rooms as mentioned you may not be as pleased if you get one of the unrenovated ones which will definitely make for a negative review of that hotel.
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Old Oct 25th, 2006, 08:37 AM
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I can't say if it happened here, but often solo women report getting worse rooms and treatment than accompanied women.
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Old Oct 27th, 2006, 10:19 AM
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I've been a guest at the Bonaparte several times. You are steps away from the Rue de Seine/Buci food market, numerous art galleries, pricy retail shops geared toward the American and Japanese tourist. You will find the area teaming with Americans, of all ages: zillions of college kids, well traveled YUPpies, and gasp! the stereotypical American tourist with big camera, big belly, big mouth, wearing white tennis shoes and a LSU hat.

The hotel serves a very nice breakfast (well presented, on a large tray: fresh breads, butter, jams, juice, coffee, fruit) to your room delivered to the minute you requested the prior evening. My only objection is that with the tray, the bed, etc. the room is FULL. This hotel has possibly the smallest rooms in Paris, particularly for the money. So, the location is central: very close to Metros, buses, cabs; surrounded by an array of food opportunities from market stalls to bistros to gourmet resturants; you are an easy walk to the Cluny, to the Seine, to Notre Dame, etc.

If this is a first trip, you can't beat the location. Friendly, helpful English speaking staff. However, you can find all of these features for significantly fewer Euros, if price is a consideration. You will pay dearly for the crisp linen napkin, hot coffee and flaky croisant which is available for a fraction of the cost if you get going in the a.m. Since I am sounding "pious" let me quickly add that there were days that I would have easily slept till the crack of noon had I not ambitiously ordered breakfast for 7:30. Which resulted in my having breakfast in bed, and starting the day much earlier. A good thing.
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Old Oct 27th, 2006, 10:31 AM
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Girlspytravel: Thank you for the information. My husband and I have been through France and Paris many times. But each year we take a niece or nephew overseas and this year it is my 14 year old niece. As she has never been to Paris, I thought the Latin Quarter or the Marais area would be convenient to the touristy things we will surely have to see for her sake.

My husband speaks French so we are interested in other areas for her to experience that she actually is in France, meaning that English is not always spoken in restaurants, shops, etc. We would prefer the country but this trip we are limited to Paris. We will check out some of your suggestions.

Where did you stay in the 10th?
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Old Oct 27th, 2006, 11:45 AM
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Hi, Sylviam-I stayed at a surprisingly good budget hotel, which could NOT have been more ideally located-and more importantly, I booked it the night before on-line while I was still at my hotel/residence in the Latin Quarter (I decided to stay longer in Paris before moving on to Brussels, as my Parisian friend invited me to a couple of cool art exhibitions and parties, and I could not extend my stay where I was staying in the Latin Quarter.

It was the Libertel-Canale St. Martin-this is a find! I had a very clean small double room with a comfortable double bed (a real double-no twins) facing right on the busy main avenue Secretan, where I could look out and see all the activity going on in the streets-which I like-YET, I was surprised that I heard absolutely nothing when I shut the window-no sounds whatsoever. They had a lovely variety at breakfast, which was included-literally everything you could want, with fresh cold unsweetened juices, hard boiled eggs, cheeses, fresh chocolate croissants, friendly English speaking staff, satellite TV, free Wi-Fi, newspapers,really what more could you want from a hotel, besides location?

And that is what I liked the best. There was a Monoprix store on the one side of the hotel, (where I went accessories shopping, of course) a small sandwich shop on the other, the whole street is filled with small not too expensive boutiques, eating places, hair salons (Jean Claude Beguine-which is a cool and inexpensive French chain salon-really, no one can do chain hair salons like the French-(Jean Louis David, Jean Claude Beguine, Jacques Dessange, Alex Ferrer-have been to all of them, and like them all for the uniformly good results I get, and with the exception of Dessange, am quite impressed how inexpensive their services are, as well). These hair salons are all in the area but as I said, I went to the J-C Beguine halfway up from the hotel, and was very pleased with my trim, wash, blow-dry and flat-iron (flat-iron, called a "fer" in French).

The metro is right across the street, as is the lovely canal St. Martin, with all the hip new ateliers that have opened in this area. (Try to go over to the Boulevard de Strasbourg-there is a shop-Fred Pinel's Atelier-where you can design your own leather flip-flops for around 200 Euros, have them made to order and pick them up in 72 hours-I didn't buy, but I did look, and I liked!).

A restaurant in the 10th on Rue Beaurepaire, on the quai de Valmy-you'll definitely want to walk this area- that I've heard good things about-CHEZ PRUNE-great people-watching, and inexpensive entrees. Also, there is a boutique complex, "Le Village" along the Canal you'll want to check out as well.

As I mentioned, the Cafe des Jaures (Jaures is the name of the metro stop) right around the corner from the hotel-take a meal here in the afternoon or evening, as it's a another great people watching spot.

However, you can ALSO go across the street to the quai de la Loire, and for a mere 1.50 Euro, take a LOVELY barge ride that goes through the picturesque locks and canals of St. Martin-I did this last month, late afternoon, unusually warm late September day-gorgeous!

Believe me, you could get FAR less in Paris and pay so much more, and that's the best part-76 Euros for a double? I will definitely stay here again-there's more to explore in the 10th, and I have not spent enough time here, that's for sure.

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Old Oct 27th, 2006, 12:13 PM
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Sounds like a nice, un-touristed and uncrowded place to be...
Walkable to Parc de Buttes Chaumont; access to 4 metro lines and 3 bus lines.. Glad you enjoyed a new part of Paris!
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Old Oct 27th, 2006, 12:26 PM
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Girlspytravel: The area sounds lovely, we will definitely take time to look around. We are in Paris after Easter so it may be a bit chilly but the barge ride sounds good to me. My niece would get a kick out of designing her own flip flops. However I am sure she would reconsider after seeing the price. Still, it would be interesting to "browse". Thanks again.
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Old Oct 27th, 2006, 06:14 PM
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>>There's nothing charming about most of St. Germain and the Latin Quarter. Last June I walked around rue de Buci one evening and couldn't wait to get out of there.>>

Keren,
I'm so surprised to read this, as I think that Saint Germain des Pres, especially the rue de Buci, is one of the most charming areas of Paris. We have always stayed in that area and love it. We're branching out next trip and will stay in the 7th, but will still spend plenty of time in Saint Germain des Pres, stopping for a pain chocolat at Gerard Mulot and walking to Saint Sulpice and heading on to Jardin du Luxembourg. In the evenings, we always spend a little time at Les Deux Magots. When I think of Paris, Saint Germain des Pres is what I picture. I don't think of it as "noisy" so much as lively. In fact, I'm a little concerned that the 7th will be too quiet in the evenings.

Sandy
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Old Oct 28th, 2006, 04:03 AM
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I had the same feeling as Keren about blvd St Germain area - soooooo many people, very crowded. Went to the City Pharmacie - could barely navigate the aisles. Once you get accustomed to the more peaceful, uncrowded 'non-central' neighborhoods, you can't wait to escape the popular areas. We do our sightseeing the first part of the day and then head back to 'our Paris' for the remainder.
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Old Oct 28th, 2006, 06:45 AM
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We stayed at the Hotel Bonaparte summer two years ago, staying the 1st 2 nights in Paris and then our last night before the flight home. We found the location very convenient for tourist sites, such as Notre Dame or a Seine River cruise (ideal for the end of the first day of jetlag), we did this to orient ourselves for the following day of touring. The staff was nice, helpful and made a great restaurant suggestion.

The first room we stayed in was spacious had a good sized bathroom on a middle floor and the second room (on the top floor) was smaller with a much smaller bathroom that you had to step up into. We didn't mind the small space until I knocked my husband's toothbrush into the toilet - yes, I told him especially since he was suspicious as to why as I was laughing uncontrollably in the bathroom...thankfully, we had a back up toothbrush, one advantage to being a veteran overpacker! Oh, the charm of European hotels; always memorable.

It's a quiet & pleasant place; there are several boutiques on the street. I got a kick out of seeing the shop windows' mannequins change overnight with a sudden drop in temperature - one day it was summer dresses and the next fall couture. Great chocolate shop on corner as you walk towards the river, too! Enjoy; Paris is lovely.
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Old Oct 29th, 2006, 07:19 AM
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Sandy,
I actually don't see any charm in that small, very crowded street, maybe just "charm". I also think there are better market streets in Paris. I can't really get the idea of staying in one part of Paris on each and every visit. I change location every time I go, I find it much more interesting than to stay in the most touristy area of Paris. I find Saint Germain full of upscale, uninteresting, boutiques, very commercial and expensive. And I prefer Parc de Bercy or Parc de Montsouris over Jardin du Luxembourg. When I picture Paris, I actually see in front of my eyes the Promenade Plantée & Boulevard Daumesnil, Canal St Martin or rue de Lévis, to name a few places.

I like staying in a quiet area. After running away from rue de Buci I ended up in the 8th by the Madeleine where my hotel was located, and felt grateful to myself for having booked it. That area felt more local to me and this is what I'm looking for when I go to Paris.
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