Lexma90

Let me offer another foodie perspective. I can understand the feeling of "I only have 12 meals (or whatever) in Paris, and I can't bear the thought of "wasting" a meal." I go through that angst on every vacation, including those to Paris! I can't offer much specific advice on your restaurant ideas so far because I haven't been to any of them except Taillevent, though I've considered eating at a number of them.

While you do have a number of cafes on your list, I think they're more (i.e. Cafe Constant) on the upscale bistro/cafe side. So even though they might be called cafes, your experience at them might be more like a somewhat formal restaurant. And it sounds like you're trying to balance out that type of place against a more casual type. (Eating a wonderful, lengthy somewhat-fancy meal day after day can get tiring, I'm sorry to have to admit.)

I've found that, while DH and I love food and love to eat, that we can't eat a big meal more than once each day. You may alrady know that about yourselves, too, and it does look like you're trying to space out those big meals. But also try to pick out some places that are less well-known (which also might be less pricy, but that's not the point) and less of a big event. You'll get a different, but just as good, feel for Paris that way. For example, on our last trip to Paris, in May, for our Sunday night dinner (sounds like you've done enough research to know that many Paris restaurants are closed Sun. night) I came up with a charming little place in the south part of the 6th arrondisement (south of the Luxembourg Gardens). It was walking distance from our hotel, and felt very local to me. If you want to check it out, the restaurant was Le Parc aux Cerfs. It's definitely not the kind of place you'd stumble on, just because it's not an area that you (or I) would be walking through otherwise. The food was very good, and the experience was charming, even though its not on the same tier as Fish or Le Comptoir, etc. I think that's the kind of place that StCirq was suggesting that you include in your list.

Based on what I know about restaurants that I haven't been to, Reminet has new owners, and as of May, right before our trip to Paris, I hadn't seen anything (positive or negative) about the place under the new owners.

I don't remember where, exactly, in the 7th Le Clos du Gourmets is, but I don't think it's close enough to your hotel to walk. You could probably get there and back just fine on the Metro. Fish on Saturday would be fun, because the 6th arr. on the weekends, especially on the streets near Fish, is a VERY lively place - you'll like that. I would suggest to go to the 6th early and have drinks at a cafe in the area, on Rue de Buci or thereabouts. Or if you're picky about your wine (like my DH), go to l'Ecluse, right on the Seine.

On reserving before you go, keep in mind that I'm a little overly organized about planning our meals, and my darling DH has a totally irrational fear that - gasp - we'll have NOWHERE to eat (in Paris? time to stop laughing). So I reserve most of our dinners in advance, and definitely reserve any place that I know we want to eat at. And with those I don't, I'm inclined to have a "short list" of restaurants and check them out beforehand, and reserve them earlier in the day or the day before. (I don't reserve lunches, though I go armed with a list of possibilities for wherever we are at lunchtime.)

In addition to chowhound, look at egullet, anther very good foodie website that will keep you going for HOURS on checking out restaurants. Their Paris board is very active and organized. As compared to chowhound, I would say egulleteers are more focused on the high-end experience.

ekscrunchy

I have only eaten at L'Ami Jean, Le Reminet, and Chez Denise from your list. L'Ami Jean seems to be on "everyone's" list these days, even more popular with Americans since the laudatory article on Chef Jego in the New York Times Magazine and coverage in Food & Wine and other US publications. I would reserve there before you leave. It is not at all fancy, rather rough-and-tumble in a positive way. Our meal last fall was wonderful.

I have read one negative review of Le Reminet under new ownership, on Chowhound. I thought it was a nice little bistro, with many tourists.

gard

Hi

My wife and I went to Paris last year. If this is your first visit to Paris you might find some useful info in my trip report with pictures, links, maps etc. You can find the trip report on my homepage http://gardkarlsen.com/Paris_France.htm . I have also written a bit about the places that we went to eat. Have a great trip

Regards
Gard
http://gardkarlsen.com - trip reports and pictures

robjame

Although I think the chances of persuading you any differently are quite slim, I agree with Lexma and St Cirq (who, in my opinion, is a person whose thoughts are worth listening to). Many of us have done what you are attempting for your first trip to Paris. You need real variety in the type of food and the type of restaurants.
Now we look for the type of restaurant that Parisians eat in. If you scan the posts you will discover places that don't get shared in some of the gourmet sites but can be the best meals in Paris. Posters don't always share these indiscriminately (if you know what I mean).

ekscrunchy

To be fair, I think there is quite a variety of ambience and style of cuisine between the places listed by the OP...at least there is between the three I am familiar with...

I do know the feeling of so many meals, so little time! Just don't eat more than one pain au chocolat at breakfast!

Naughtyb: Here is my trip report from last fall with brief descriptions of meals at: Chez Denise, L'Ami Jean, and Le Reminet. You have to scroll down past the Basque country and the Dordogne to get to the Paris part of the report:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34894706

robjame

eks - I re-read your report on Le Reminet. Interesting because we visited Le Reminet May of 2005 and May of 2006 and we noticed a change in one year - hardly definite data but interesting. It has become much more "discovered" and we were less impressed with the food. Still a place to go on Sunday but we will move on.

ekscrunchy

...and Le Reminet changed ownership last fall, according to what I read...I think part of the reason it is so popular is that it is open Sundays and is in a neighborhood well trod by tourists. I think the best advice one can give a new visitor is to get away from these areas at least for a couple of meals..

d_claude_bear

I think it might be useful to distinguish between visitors to these sites who want to benefit from the experiences of others and those who seem to have other agendas.

For the latter, let's be glad there are still many visitors to Paris who want to dine at the high-end and/or touristy and/or well-known restaurants--leave them undisturbed so the rest of us will still have access to the neighborhood and local-favorite ones.

Linda431

Naughtyb,
I think your restaurant picks are great ones.

You asked about closeness of the first night's pick....I would guess a 15 minute taxi ride tops, but I'm not sure where on the Champs the Marriott is located. We have actually walked from the Champs to the 7th on occasion.

About reservations: don't wait until you get there to reserve Taillevent & Violin d"ingres. They're very popular and fill up fast. (Coat & tie required at Taillevent for sure, suggested at V.d'I.)

I love the Comptoir. Did you know it's basically 2 different restaurants? Lunch throughout the week and dinner on the weekends it is a brasserie with no reservations and you order off the menu.

Weeknights it's a prix fixt gourmet treat with a set menu that changes daily(a bargain at around 45 euros). Reservations are next to impossible to get unless you're staying at the adjacent hotel. Just didn't want you to be disappointed.

You might want to try to reserve Fish in advance too. I always wanted to try it but never could fit it in.

One word about the Champs prices: There are so many places to eat along that strip that are not expensive. Seafood, Italian, bistros. Just start walking along and you'll see what I mean. Shopping is well, another story.

I can't help you with Montmarte. The one time we went there we were not inclined to linger very long. I guess we're not very adventursome.

You've done your homework it looks like to me. You'll do great! Good luck.

kate12

We had a very nice dinner at a new restaurant in the Marais district of Paris. It has taken over in the location of Le Petit Phamphlet which is now closed.
The new owners as a husband and wife team, the husband has been a chef at other big Paris restaurants and his wife has left her finance job to help him run the restaurant.
It is called Le Carre des Vosges and is located at 15 rue St. Giles 75003 Paris
01 04 71 22 21.
Its a nice setting, trendy but relaxed. The food was excellent and a very nice wine list.
We enjoyed it there.

Linda431

I just checked the map and you can see from here that you're just a hop skip & a jump from Le Clos du Gourmets.

http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguid...ets_le_paris-i

Your hotel is number 6, the one with the star is the restaurant. We usually stay on the left bank, but you're in a super spot to hop on the FDR metro or walk down the ave Montaigne and cross the river.

ekscrunchy

Chez Denise and Chez Clovis are so far from the typical "high-end" Parisian tourist traps! At lunchtime at CD the dining room was packed with locals who appeared to have great appreciation for wonderful, unadorned classics in what some might call a down-home setting.
The crowd at Chez Clovis also looked like workers from nearby businesses along with a coterie of trenchermen who looked left over from the days of Les Halles. The atmosphere at L'Ami Jean is even more downscale; the place was a Basque tavern in its previous incarnation. Again, most of the diners I shared the room with did not appear to be tourists, although I suspect that may have changed due to the rash of press recently, but then again, I was too busy looking at what was on my plate!

NeoPatrick

Another similar post here makes me post the same thought I expressed there.
For those discussing being surrounded by other tourists or dining with locals, much of the answer lies in the time. When people say you must arrive early as it is packed by 8 or whatever, please realize that you probably WILL be surrounded with tourists. At least in the summer, most locals wouldn't think of heading out to dine before 9 or later. That gives all the tourists plenty of time to finish their meals and leave making room for the locals.
We tend to be late diners, and we have eaten at many places totally surrounded by locals that others say is all tourists. I suspect the main difference is that we were there at 9:30 or 10:00, while they were there a couple hours earlier.

robjame

Hi Neo - where are you now?
Your point is well taken.
Some of these places, however, do become over publicized and trendy. Our visits to Le Reminet (one to reserve and one for dinner at 9:45) plus a conversation with the owner confirmed our suspicion.
Places like that do only one sitting.

monet77

Does anyone who has eaten at Chez Denise recenty remember if gateau de foie de volaille is still on the menu? (Tell me yes, and I will have to book a flight ASAP.) I have eaten there only twice, but will ever forget this spectacular appetizer. It seems that the menu doesn't change often (if ever, aside from daily specials?).

Likewise, anyone know if Chez Clovis still serves stuffed goose neck? (Can't remember the French name --- cou farci perhaps)

oakglen

There are perhaps a half dozen posters on the Paris restaurant scene that are worth heeding. St. Cirq is one. John Talbott writes often as well. Most of us who have spent a lot of time in France and Paris tend to avoid the starred restaurants because much of what you are paying for is ambiance etc. Clos des Gourmets represents the "sweet spot" in Paris dining. No star, because the staff is limited to the bare minimum. But the food is superb! Close by is Vin sur Vin, a one star that is excellent, yet not frequented by the Zagat crowd.

NeoPatrick

robjame, in Amsterdam now. Will arrive in Paris next Tuesday (my birthdday) for 10 days.

I'm still sort of chucking that the original poster makes a point of saying they don't have "Champs Elysees money" but I'm trying to think how many places on the Champs compares to the higher prices of much of the planned list. Is there some notion that Champs Elysees is the most expensive area of Paris -- particularly for dining? How many "bargain" $90 lunches per person BEFORE wine are typical on the Champs Elysees, for example?

Linda431

The Champs Elysee has sort of a long held but outdated reputation as being "tres cher". I figured that was the case with the OP, having just heard a nationally recognized newscaster say something to the effect, "Well, if I could afford to wine & dine on the Champs Elysees I wouldn't be up at 5 A.M. to interview you."

Funny how those illusions stick around.

naughtyb

So are you guys saying that the 8th's dining scene is not the most expensive any more? Seems as if there are many expensive places around such as Guy Savoy and Taillvent to name two!

naughtyb

Also, I want to reply to a few posters. First of all, I never said St C doesnt know what he/she is talking about. I just loathe the accusatory tone taken by him/her. I despise when people act as if my intentions are anything besides trying to enjoy great meals and have a great time. St C is WAY OFF BASE and completely out of line with his/her comments toward and about me. There is absolutely no one that I am trying to "impress". Nobody that I know would care or have any inkling about any restaurants in Paris and my fiance and I are planning this trip together so who am I trying to impress? Certainly not anyone on this site.
Robjame-- I dont know why you would say that "the chances of persuading me any are quite slim". I am more than open to any suggestions you may have. After all, that is why I came to this site with people who are informed, such as yourself.
Thanks so much to Lexma, Linda431, and ekscrunchy for all the assistance. I really appreciate it.
d_claude_bear---- I hope your comment wasn't directed towards me. If I wasn't interested in the opinions of others, why would I ask? I want a myriad of Parisian experiences and I thought I made a decent opening list with varying types of French restaurants that I will most assuredly revise after a few comments. i.e. Le Reminet makes me a little nervous now with new owners and not much info on the restaurant itself. If your response was directed towards me, it is people with responses such as yours that taint an otherwise enjoyable website.