Paris and Sancerre
Oct 10th, 2009, 09:58 AM
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Paris and Sancerre
I'm spending a week at the Coeur de France language school in Sancerre. The trip started in Paris, so I'll start there.
I arrived in Paris two hours late, due to problems on the ground in Houston. My Shuttle-Inter driver was waiting for me and it was a quick trip to the Relais des Medicis near Le Theatre d’Odeon in the 6th. I liked this hotel. Small, great location, very warm reception. The room was of course small, but with a good bathroom and a little sitting area near the window.
As soon as I had my things in the room I headed to Montmartre for the wine festival (thanks to Roberta). On my way to the Metro I discovered dozens of medical students on the steps of the theater. I have no idea what the occasion was, but they were all dressed up in a variety of costumes and having quite a good time. (I ran into a similar thing with medical students years ago in Vannes; if anyone knows what they’re doing and why, please educate me.)
Montmartre was filled with food and wine. I had an apricot crepe, then found the oyster man from Cancale. Never imagined eating take-out oysters, but with a little plastic knife to finishing loosening them from the shell it worked quite well (though I was dripping sea water!) There were some men from Alsace cooking in those huge pans you see used in the markets for paella. They were cooking potatoes and onions, then added huge round slabs of Reblochon cheese. I think the finished product had chorizo. I didn’t taste it but I might try it at home. My husband loves that cheese.
From Montmartre I went to Parc Monceau and enjoyed a quiet thirty minutes walking through that lovely park watching a group of pre-schoolers out for recess. Then I zig-zagged around a bit making a few shopping stops for things I’d promised to pick up, then back to the hotel. Before dinner I spent a little time in the Luxembourg Gardens and discovered the Medici fountain for the first time. What a peaceful place! I’ll be back there for sure.
Had dinner at La Mediterranee, which is just across from the hotel. Roasted sea bream with a delicate sauce of tomatoes and honey, on a bed a polenta. Very good.
Finished the evening charging up all my electronics. No wonder my suitcase was so heavy this time!
Tomorrow I’m off to Sancerre and trying out my brand new Nuvi GPS.
I arrived in Paris two hours late, due to problems on the ground in Houston. My Shuttle-Inter driver was waiting for me and it was a quick trip to the Relais des Medicis near Le Theatre d’Odeon in the 6th. I liked this hotel. Small, great location, very warm reception. The room was of course small, but with a good bathroom and a little sitting area near the window.
As soon as I had my things in the room I headed to Montmartre for the wine festival (thanks to Roberta). On my way to the Metro I discovered dozens of medical students on the steps of the theater. I have no idea what the occasion was, but they were all dressed up in a variety of costumes and having quite a good time. (I ran into a similar thing with medical students years ago in Vannes; if anyone knows what they’re doing and why, please educate me.)
Montmartre was filled with food and wine. I had an apricot crepe, then found the oyster man from Cancale. Never imagined eating take-out oysters, but with a little plastic knife to finishing loosening them from the shell it worked quite well (though I was dripping sea water!) There were some men from Alsace cooking in those huge pans you see used in the markets for paella. They were cooking potatoes and onions, then added huge round slabs of Reblochon cheese. I think the finished product had chorizo. I didn’t taste it but I might try it at home. My husband loves that cheese.
From Montmartre I went to Parc Monceau and enjoyed a quiet thirty minutes walking through that lovely park watching a group of pre-schoolers out for recess. Then I zig-zagged around a bit making a few shopping stops for things I’d promised to pick up, then back to the hotel. Before dinner I spent a little time in the Luxembourg Gardens and discovered the Medici fountain for the first time. What a peaceful place! I’ll be back there for sure.
Had dinner at La Mediterranee, which is just across from the hotel. Roasted sea bream with a delicate sauce of tomatoes and honey, on a bed a polenta. Very good.
Finished the evening charging up all my electronics. No wonder my suitcase was so heavy this time!
Tomorrow I’m off to Sancerre and trying out my brand new Nuvi GPS.
Oct 10th, 2009, 10:01 AM
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Saturday, October 10
I turned on the GPS in the taxi to Orly, hoping it would pick up the satellites (since it wouldn’t last night in the hotel). By the time I’d rented my car, it was only about 35% there so I navigated the old fashioned way.
My original plan was to take the N7 down to Sancerre. Bad original plan. The N7 was packed with stop lights and not exactly scenic, so when I finally had a chance to get on the autoroute I took it. Then immediately had second thoughts. Had I gotten on the wrong one? No chance to pull over to check the map, so I had to exit. Found out it was the right one, but then discovered you couldn’t get back on it heading south from where I was. Had to head toward Paris, then finally turn around. Why wasn’t the GPS ready yet?
I gave up on her for awhile, then stopped at a grocery store. In the parking lot, I finally figured out that I had her in some strange mode that was making her try to figure out how to drive from my house in Houston to Sancerre. Once that was adjusted, she was raring to go for the last 20 miles.
The last mile was something else. Sancerre is one of those villages on a hill, with tiny streets like a corkscrew. She kept telling me (with a bad French accent) which street to turn on, but of course there were no street names marked, and no place to quickly turn around when she said she was “recalculating.” But we made it and I think we’ll be fast friends by the end of the week.
Gerard met me at Coeur de France and showed me to my apartment about a block away. It’s large and quite well outfitted. Lots of windows overlooking the village and a small patio with a view of an old tower. The village is the perfect size for me. I think this will be a lovely week.
Tomorrow, off to Vezalay.
I turned on the GPS in the taxi to Orly, hoping it would pick up the satellites (since it wouldn’t last night in the hotel). By the time I’d rented my car, it was only about 35% there so I navigated the old fashioned way.
My original plan was to take the N7 down to Sancerre. Bad original plan. The N7 was packed with stop lights and not exactly scenic, so when I finally had a chance to get on the autoroute I took it. Then immediately had second thoughts. Had I gotten on the wrong one? No chance to pull over to check the map, so I had to exit. Found out it was the right one, but then discovered you couldn’t get back on it heading south from where I was. Had to head toward Paris, then finally turn around. Why wasn’t the GPS ready yet?
I gave up on her for awhile, then stopped at a grocery store. In the parking lot, I finally figured out that I had her in some strange mode that was making her try to figure out how to drive from my house in Houston to Sancerre. Once that was adjusted, she was raring to go for the last 20 miles.
The last mile was something else. Sancerre is one of those villages on a hill, with tiny streets like a corkscrew. She kept telling me (with a bad French accent) which street to turn on, but of course there were no street names marked, and no place to quickly turn around when she said she was “recalculating.” But we made it and I think we’ll be fast friends by the end of the week.
Gerard met me at Coeur de France and showed me to my apartment about a block away. It’s large and quite well outfitted. Lots of windows overlooking the village and a small patio with a view of an old tower. The village is the perfect size for me. I think this will be a lovely week.
Tomorrow, off to Vezalay.
Oct 11th, 2009, 09:16 AM
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Sounds like you're off to a good start; I admire you for driving down there from Paris. I took the train when I went to Coeur de France and had to taxi the last 20 miles since train does not go to Sancerre.
Have a good learning experience there!
Off to Paris myself this afternoon.
Have a good learning experience there!
Off to Paris myself this afternoon.
Oct 11th, 2009, 09:18 AM
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This time of year the group class is 395 Euros a week. I'm paying more because I'm doing a week of private instruction (trying to really jump-start my flagging French). The apartments are 550 - 650 Euros a week. And yes, I'm solo. I think this is a good way to travel solo. A couple of years ago I did this in Paris. Classes in the morning, then on my own. I enjoyed seeing my classmates each day, but also enjoyed my time alone wandering around the city.
Oct 11th, 2009, 10:30 AM
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Sunday, October 11
Headed off to Vezelay with my GPS. (What shall I name her? How about Coco? I saw that Audrey Tatou movie on the plane to Paris.)
About 15 minutes into the trip I figured out she was set on taking me via every tiny road she could find. And about 20 minutes later I finally analyzed why I was uncomfortble. I've always been the navigator in our family, and now someone else was trying to take my place! When I finally ceded control to Coco, it was a delightful drive. I did indeed see some good sights. Lots of farms (including two frog farms) and two groups of hunters, complete with dogs.
Coco and I got along so well that she had to "recalculate" only once on the trip home (though she still gets a little insistent when we're in the middle of Sancerre).
I did like Vezelay very much. It was busy but not crowded. Lots of French couples out for a Sunday afternoon. Had a nice lunch near the basilica - escargots and a nice egg dish with truffle sauce.
Home in time for a nap (to get completely on schedule and ready for class tomorrow) and a simple supper.
Demain, je parle le francais.
Headed off to Vezelay with my GPS. (What shall I name her? How about Coco? I saw that Audrey Tatou movie on the plane to Paris.)
About 15 minutes into the trip I figured out she was set on taking me via every tiny road she could find. And about 20 minutes later I finally analyzed why I was uncomfortble. I've always been the navigator in our family, and now someone else was trying to take my place! When I finally ceded control to Coco, it was a delightful drive. I did indeed see some good sights. Lots of farms (including two frog farms) and two groups of hunters, complete with dogs.
Coco and I got along so well that she had to "recalculate" only once on the trip home (though she still gets a little insistent when we're in the middle of Sancerre).
I did like Vezelay very much. It was busy but not crowded. Lots of French couples out for a Sunday afternoon. Had a nice lunch near the basilica - escargots and a nice egg dish with truffle sauce.
Home in time for a nap (to get completely on schedule and ready for class tomorrow) and a simple supper.
Demain, je parle le francais.
Oct 13th, 2009, 08:59 AM
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Yesterday was my first day of class, and I felt like a complete failure. One of the first tasks of the day was to listen to a tape. . .and I'll be darned if I could figure out what they were talking about! Three and four times we listened to it, and slowly -- word by word -- it started getting in to my dense brain. Three hours later, we were done for the day. I treated myself to a nice lunch on the main place, then got in my car. Drove to La Charite sur Loire, but I chickened out and didn't drive into the centre ville.
On the way back I stopped at the Carrefour and stocked up. Then home for dinner and my homework: watching the news. I felt better because I actually understood some of what was being said. (Pictures certainly help.) Was so pumped up I kept the tv on for a dramatic series.
In class this afternoon I listened to another tape, and could understand about half! Tremendous progress (though perhaps only because I had a little experience with this particular vocabulary)! The teacher and I took a walk through the village. We were planning to stop at the Institut de Beaute so I could have a rehearsed conversation about the services they offered, but they're closed for the week. (It seems the owner is in Dijon taking some course.) So instead I made a reservation to have my hair cut tomorrow.
Tomorrow we have class in the morning and an afternoon excursion to a vintner. Then the haircut!
On the way back I stopped at the Carrefour and stocked up. Then home for dinner and my homework: watching the news. I felt better because I actually understood some of what was being said. (Pictures certainly help.) Was so pumped up I kept the tv on for a dramatic series.
In class this afternoon I listened to another tape, and could understand about half! Tremendous progress (though perhaps only because I had a little experience with this particular vocabulary)! The teacher and I took a walk through the village. We were planning to stop at the Institut de Beaute so I could have a rehearsed conversation about the services they offered, but they're closed for the week. (It seems the owner is in Dijon taking some course.) So instead I made a reservation to have my hair cut tomorrow.
Tomorrow we have class in the morning and an afternoon excursion to a vintner. Then the haircut!
Oct 13th, 2009, 10:03 AM
#12
I am enjoying hearing about your experience. I have considered going to a language school, but somehow I have always just plugged along on my own. I don't feel like I get enough practice speaking though, and a school would probably be a much better way to become truly fluent.
I know what you mean about the GPS. I have a hard time giving up control of navigation to a person, never mind a machine.
I know what you mean about the GPS. I have a hard time giving up control of navigation to a person, never mind a machine.
Oct 14th, 2009, 08:48 AM
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Today was the busiest yet. Thirty minutes of pronounciation practice early this morning, followed by four full hours of instruction. But we broke it up -- some classroom time, then we went to the post office to mail a postcard to my mother. Cafe creme on the way back, then more classroom time, then a quick trip to the fromagerie, etc. Then to the presse to pick up a paper, which we read and discussed a bit. The four hours passed quickly.
I had only one short hour for lunch, so ate at the apartment. Then back to the school at 2:00. Five of us took Gerard's vineyard excursion. Up to the top of a hill, where the views were terrific. Almost all the visible land was filled with vines. Then to a little village where we had a tour of the winery and a tasting of about 8 wines. Very interesting and quite tasty!
Had about an hour to take it easy until it was time for the haircut. The salon is the only one in town that I've found and there were quite a few folks coming by. I loved that three of those customers were small girls - all under age four. The first cried through most of her haircut. I'm quite pleased with the cut I received. (Mine's a simple "do".) And it was a good experience for me to try to blend into daily life for an hour.
Now I'm home and tired. It's almost 8, so I think I'll just duck downstairs to the Italian restaurant and get a little pizza to go.
I had only one short hour for lunch, so ate at the apartment. Then back to the school at 2:00. Five of us took Gerard's vineyard excursion. Up to the top of a hill, where the views were terrific. Almost all the visible land was filled with vines. Then to a little village where we had a tour of the winery and a tasting of about 8 wines. Very interesting and quite tasty!
Had about an hour to take it easy until it was time for the haircut. The salon is the only one in town that I've found and there were quite a few folks coming by. I loved that three of those customers were small girls - all under age four. The first cried through most of her haircut. I'm quite pleased with the cut I received. (Mine's a simple "do".) And it was a good experience for me to try to blend into daily life for an hour.
Now I'm home and tired. It's almost 8, so I think I'll just duck downstairs to the Italian restaurant and get a little pizza to go.
Oct 17th, 2009, 08:16 AM
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Thursday evening two other students and I drove through the countryside to the village of Oizon and had a lovely dinner at a restaurant on a beautiful small lake (large pond?) Les Rives de L'Oizenotte. Very good meal, starting off with an aperitif of sparkling muscat wine. Each of us had something different for each course and no one was disappointed.
Friday was the last day of class, filled with way too many pronouns and the conditional tense. But I did feel that I'd made progress and overall am quite happy I took this course.
As soon as class was over I headed back to Paris. I'm confident I could have found Orly without the GPS helping, but there's no way I would have found the one gas station on the airport grounds without her help!
Today's Saturday and my last day. I went to several places I've missed on my earlier trips to Paris. Loved the Musee de la Chasse. I went there because my husband and son are quite the hunters, so I'm familiar with "la chasse." I think I was most taken with the building fixtures: bannisters, light fixtures, etc. They were all of bronze and made to look like tree limbs, antlers, etc. My favorite was a large statue in the courtyard of a hunter in camoflauge. All you could see were the two legs; the rest of the figure looked like a large shrub. My son the bow-hunter would love that.
Then to BHV, les Invalides, and the Musee Nissam Camondo. With stops for lunch and cafe creme it was a full today. This evening, it's off for oysters, then to pack.
Friday was the last day of class, filled with way too many pronouns and the conditional tense. But I did feel that I'd made progress and overall am quite happy I took this course.
As soon as class was over I headed back to Paris. I'm confident I could have found Orly without the GPS helping, but there's no way I would have found the one gas station on the airport grounds without her help!
Today's Saturday and my last day. I went to several places I've missed on my earlier trips to Paris. Loved the Musee de la Chasse. I went there because my husband and son are quite the hunters, so I'm familiar with "la chasse." I think I was most taken with the building fixtures: bannisters, light fixtures, etc. They were all of bronze and made to look like tree limbs, antlers, etc. My favorite was a large statue in the courtyard of a hunter in camoflauge. All you could see were the two legs; the rest of the figure looked like a large shrub. My son the bow-hunter would love that.
Then to BHV, les Invalides, and the Musee Nissam Camondo. With stops for lunch and cafe creme it was a full today. This evening, it's off for oysters, then to pack.
Oct 24th, 2009, 04:49 PM
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Bonjour, fbc34. I'm happy to run into your posts as I have just signed up for a 2 week intermediate class at the Sancerre school. I'd love to get your tips on the town and the school, and, especially, how to get around. I was thinking of taking the train from Paris to Cosne-sur-Loire, but it sounds like that might not be a good idea. Like you, I'll be traveling from Houston. Any tips?
Merci beaucoup!
Merci beaucoup!
Oct 26th, 2009, 05:24 PM
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I looked into taking the train to Cosne, but can't remember now exactly why that didn't work for me. I think it might have been the train schedule for going back or perhaps the hours the rental car agencies were open in Cosne. At any rate, if the schedules and the rental car hours work for you,
Although you do not need a car in Sancerre, I'd definitely recommend that you have one. Since you have to check into your apartment on Saturday evening, you have all day Sunday to explore. There were a few afternoons when I enjoyed driving around. And although there is a Petite Casino in the town, you'll need a car to get to a real grocery store if you plan to eat any meals at home.
Although you do not need a car in Sancerre, I'd definitely recommend that you have one. Since you have to check into your apartment on Saturday evening, you have all day Sunday to explore. There were a few afternoons when I enjoyed driving around. And although there is a Petite Casino in the town, you'll need a car to get to a real grocery store if you plan to eat any meals at home.
Oct 26th, 2009, 06:53 PM
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I spent a week at Coeur de France in Oct., 2007 and did not have a car; for that short period of time, it seemed ok to be w/o a car. For a longer stay I probably would have wanted to be able to drive out of town, or more accurately, out of village!
The train to Cosne worked well; in 2007 the school would provide pick up in Cosne (for a fee) if you arrived on Sat. before a certain time; not sure how it works today. Since I was staying at a B and B, I didn't have to arrive on Sat., so arrived on Sun. and took a taxi to Sancerre, which cost more than what C de F charged. I used the school's transport back to Cosne the following Sat.
Bottom line: you don't need a car unless you want to be able to drive around the countryside.
The train to Cosne worked well; in 2007 the school would provide pick up in Cosne (for a fee) if you arrived on Sat. before a certain time; not sure how it works today. Since I was staying at a B and B, I didn't have to arrive on Sat., so arrived on Sun. and took a taxi to Sancerre, which cost more than what C de F charged. I used the school's transport back to Cosne the following Sat.
Bottom line: you don't need a car unless you want to be able to drive around the countryside.
