Paris (and Lyon) with a Six Year Old: for Doting Grandparents Only
May 21st, 2009, 09:32 AM
#21
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I am enjoying your report, Grandmere, even though I am not a grandmother and will never be (old maid). However, I went with a friend and her eight year old daughter to London and took various nephews and a niece to Europe. Your story of the bird reminds me of when I was with friend and daughter in London and at Trafalgar Square, a bird sat on daughter's shoulder and left a calling card. She said, "Oh, Mom, just think an English pigeon! That's so special. Please don't ever wash it off!" (My friend is quite particular but she managed to leave the poop on until we got back to the hotel even though I could see that she was itching to get rid of it immediately. have to give the woman credit!)
May 21st, 2009, 02:44 PM
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Leiderhosen sound very cute. Have fun with that new grandson!
Irishface, I'm sure your young friends and relatives have enjoyed many a trip with you; lucky them! Cute story about the English pigeon; I was thinking about our "Parisian sparrow"-- not as though we don't have sparrows here or that they wouldn't hop on a table to eat crumbs, but somehow it's not the same as seeing it happen in Paris (or London, etc.).
Irishface, I'm sure your young friends and relatives have enjoyed many a trip with you; lucky them! Cute story about the English pigeon; I was thinking about our "Parisian sparrow"-- not as though we don't have sparrows here or that they wouldn't hop on a table to eat crumbs, but somehow it's not the same as seeing it happen in Paris (or London, etc.).
May 21st, 2009, 03:02 PM
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Sally, I just clicked on your name and then realized that you are the mom in the thread from last fall. Hats off to you for doing it with a toddler; it sounds as though it was a super trip for everyone including LP!
May 23rd, 2009, 08:41 PM
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Day 3, Friday
AS and CH went to the Eiffel Tower, and I declined that trip and went shopping on the streets near our apt., rue du Cherche Midi and rue du Dragon. I bought a couple whimsical Karine Dupont bags (one for a special gift), some La Roche-Posay 50+ sun screen, and tried on a linen dress. We met back at the apartment, and I heard about their 1.5 hr. wait to go up the ET and then could only get to the second level. But they didn’t mind the wait and were glad that they had done it. We took off in the direction of Bon Marche and had late lunch at an outdoor cafe on the way, quiche and salad again for everyone. A quick stop into another DPAM, and then on to LBM where we browsed the toy dept. for something for CH’s 3 yr old brother, at home with Dad and admired and sniffed the beautiful Dyptique candles. We went into La Grande Epicerie and took a picture of CH with the giant Nutella. Despite the beautiful food, the very late lunch once again left us not in the mood for food shopping, and we knew we’d be leaving the next day for an overnight in Lyon.
Back to the apartment where we just hung out for a couple of hours before we went on the Vedettes du Pont Neuf 9:30 boat ride. There was a large crowd of French teenagers on the boat sitting near us, and every time they would stand up to take pictures, CH would do the same with her disposable cameras. I had planned to meet Joan G. and some others at Cafe Constant for a drink after the cruise, but I was so windblown and tired by that point that I did not do it. And Joan graciously forgave me. Lesson learned: important not to make too many commitments when on a very short trip.
After the cruise we were a bit cold and hungry so we stopped at a cafe on the rue du Buci and had a late night dinner of sorts; CH wanted chocolat chaud and frites; now both bedtimes and healthy eating rules suspended. We stopped feeling guilty about keeping CH out so late when we saw some other children with their parents.
Day 4, Sat.
I had planned to take CH to the Guignol Theatre at the Luxembourg while AS had some time to herself to shop, but CH slept very late, and we did not wake her because of her being up late the night before. So we just packed for our overnight in Lyon and shopped a bit around our area, inc. Fragonard for some small gifts.
When AS and I were discussing how to get to Gare de Lyon, I wanted to take a taxi, AS said the metro would be simple (just a change at Chatelet), and CH suggested that we “call that man who had the limo”, referring to Shuttle-Inter van. Ah, doesn’t take long to get accustomed to the finer things in life, does it?
We took the metro.
We were going to be visiting two groups of AS’s friends, staying all night with one family and then a few hours the next day with the family for whom she had been an au pair in ’92.
We were in second class (Prem tickets bought online) on the upper level of the TGV, and the ride was just two hours. The couple (AS's age) and their two children met us at the gare, and 7 of us piled into their car and were off to wander around Lyon before we went to the grandparents’ apartment for dinner, which was raclette with a beautiful tarte aux pommes for dessert. The children were 15 and 8, and the eight year old didn’t speak any English, but he and CH had fun playing with a ball and also playing Hide and Seek (Cache-Cache). CH was invited to go to their house to spend the night and she readily went with them, eager to see their dog, a huge Dogue de Bordeaux. AS and I stayed with the grandparents, and since the English-speaking couple had left with all the kids, there I was in the company of our charming French hosts and my fluent-in-French daughter. I do speak and understand French but not when it’s flying so quickly. I smiled a lot and translations were necessary from time to time; sigh, back to French classes!
AS and CH went to the Eiffel Tower, and I declined that trip and went shopping on the streets near our apt., rue du Cherche Midi and rue du Dragon. I bought a couple whimsical Karine Dupont bags (one for a special gift), some La Roche-Posay 50+ sun screen, and tried on a linen dress. We met back at the apartment, and I heard about their 1.5 hr. wait to go up the ET and then could only get to the second level. But they didn’t mind the wait and were glad that they had done it. We took off in the direction of Bon Marche and had late lunch at an outdoor cafe on the way, quiche and salad again for everyone. A quick stop into another DPAM, and then on to LBM where we browsed the toy dept. for something for CH’s 3 yr old brother, at home with Dad and admired and sniffed the beautiful Dyptique candles. We went into La Grande Epicerie and took a picture of CH with the giant Nutella. Despite the beautiful food, the very late lunch once again left us not in the mood for food shopping, and we knew we’d be leaving the next day for an overnight in Lyon.
Back to the apartment where we just hung out for a couple of hours before we went on the Vedettes du Pont Neuf 9:30 boat ride. There was a large crowd of French teenagers on the boat sitting near us, and every time they would stand up to take pictures, CH would do the same with her disposable cameras. I had planned to meet Joan G. and some others at Cafe Constant for a drink after the cruise, but I was so windblown and tired by that point that I did not do it. And Joan graciously forgave me. Lesson learned: important not to make too many commitments when on a very short trip.
After the cruise we were a bit cold and hungry so we stopped at a cafe on the rue du Buci and had a late night dinner of sorts; CH wanted chocolat chaud and frites; now both bedtimes and healthy eating rules suspended. We stopped feeling guilty about keeping CH out so late when we saw some other children with their parents.
Day 4, Sat.
I had planned to take CH to the Guignol Theatre at the Luxembourg while AS had some time to herself to shop, but CH slept very late, and we did not wake her because of her being up late the night before. So we just packed for our overnight in Lyon and shopped a bit around our area, inc. Fragonard for some small gifts.
When AS and I were discussing how to get to Gare de Lyon, I wanted to take a taxi, AS said the metro would be simple (just a change at Chatelet), and CH suggested that we “call that man who had the limo”, referring to Shuttle-Inter van. Ah, doesn’t take long to get accustomed to the finer things in life, does it?
We took the metro.
We were going to be visiting two groups of AS’s friends, staying all night with one family and then a few hours the next day with the family for whom she had been an au pair in ’92.
We were in second class (Prem tickets bought online) on the upper level of the TGV, and the ride was just two hours. The couple (AS's age) and their two children met us at the gare, and 7 of us piled into their car and were off to wander around Lyon before we went to the grandparents’ apartment for dinner, which was raclette with a beautiful tarte aux pommes for dessert. The children were 15 and 8, and the eight year old didn’t speak any English, but he and CH had fun playing with a ball and also playing Hide and Seek (Cache-Cache). CH was invited to go to their house to spend the night and she readily went with them, eager to see their dog, a huge Dogue de Bordeaux. AS and I stayed with the grandparents, and since the English-speaking couple had left with all the kids, there I was in the company of our charming French hosts and my fluent-in-French daughter. I do speak and understand French but not when it’s flying so quickly. I smiled a lot and translations were necessary from time to time; sigh, back to French classes!
May 24th, 2009, 05:16 AM
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Continues to be delightful! re: "now both bedtimes and healthy eating rules suspended". My husband and I have been talking about how to best manage those things when we go(though our kids are a bit older 8 & 11) It sounds like you managed very well to find the happy medium between cutting some slack in this special situation, without falling over into the potential 'crankiness' 
that following those rules prevent!
I think there are some lessons in how kids are able to move beyond language barriers so easily! How wonderful to be able to include a 'visit with locals' into your experience!
that following those rules prevent!I think there are some lessons in how kids are able to move beyond language barriers so easily! How wonderful to be able to include a 'visit with locals' into your experience!
May 25th, 2009, 04:16 PM
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Canada_V, CH did handle the bending of the rules well, but a longer trip would have meant reinstating them!
Moving along. . .
Day 5, Sunday in Lyon
Woke up to lots of rain, but that was ok b/c we were visiting, not sightseeing, and it only affected the plan to take the kids to a park. We had a big Sunday meal early afternoon at our hosts' beautiful and spacious apt., and they served fish, lots of vegetables with an aioli, and a super clafouti aux pommes for dessert. This family had been very good to AS during the year she lived in Lyon, and I have visited them in the past, also. We keep wanting them to come to the US so we can return the hospitality.
After lots of bises on one cheek and then the other and promises to get together again before so many years (we last saw these friends in 2000), around 4 we were dropped off at the other family's elegant house in Charbonieres, a suburb of Lyon. Champagne was uncorked, and we were served a wonderful Tarte Tropezienne, a cake that is sliced horizontally and filled with pastry cream. One of the "children" (now 27!) whom my daughter took care of was home with his lovely girlfriend, and it was great fun to be with these people again. French and English were mixed, even sometime in the same sentence (!), and I was able to keep up with this. Our hostess here had little gifts for each of us, and when I remarked on the pretty scent of the orange flower Savon de Marseille, she insisted that I take a large bottle home with me. (And since then I have found a place to order it here in the US)
Such good visits in Lyon and only too soon it was time to be driven to the gare for our 8:00 train to Paris. And we did take a taxi from the Gare de Lyon to our apt.!
Day 6, Mon.
We had no real agenda except to run around and get done all the little things we hadn’t had time for yet. Croissants at a cafe near St. Sulpice (instead of AS running to the local patisserie each morning to bring back our supply!) Then over to rue du Buci area for some gifts at Oliviers &Co., Cafe Coton for shirts for the men at home (the clerk here invited CH to go upstairs into the storeroom to help search for sizes), and another stop along the quai for a couple more little Eiffel Towers for CH’s friends at home, and the purchase of two pretty handbags for AS and my DIL at La Bagagerie. We then took a circuitous metro ride to La Tuile a Loup in the rue Monge area; I’d heard of this place for a long time, but it was disappointing because of the very high prices, too high in our opinion, for the rustic faience from the different regions. A small purchase here, and then the owner told us a quicker metro route for the return, after CH had mac and cheese at a little fast food place on the street. We went back to look at the linen dress I had seen on Fri. at Sixieme (rue du Dragon), and AS offered to buy it for me for Mo’s Day and my b-day; what a lucky mom to have such a sweet daughter, n’est-ce pas? Here we were on our last day and had not been to Laduree yet, so afternoon tea there where CH had an eclair au chocolat, and AS and I had mini macarons, the best in Paris. And late afternoon, we finally got to the Jardin du Luxembourg, which was beautifully abloom with chestnut trees and spring flowers. CH had a really good time there, but we had to leave before she was ready because of dinner reservations at Le Train Bleu. A tiny whine there, but all in all, a good sport about it.
We decided to take the metro to the Gare de Lyon (since, in fact, AS was correct in that it was an easy journey, if you don’t mind changing at Chatelet), and soon we were at LTB.
The maitre d’ gave CH a coloring book and box of crayons, and that got her busy right away. It is such a gorgeous place it seemed like the right spot for our last night in Paris. The food is good, but it’s really about the ambiance and decor--and history. AS and I had white asparagus for an entree, and we had steamed cod on a bed of vibrantly green asparagus, broad beans, peas, and broccoli in butter sauce with saffron for our main course; CH had the children’s meal and had the cod also, but they asked if she’d prefer frites to the green veggies. They brought a tiny “sauce boat” with ketchup for her frites. AS had “Alliance du Chocolat and de la Menthe” for dessert, and I chose Oeufs a la Neige Caramelises, and CH got ice cream with her meal, but we all shared. The chocolate dessert was artfully arranged on a square plate with chocolate mousse, a small, rich chocolate drink with a tiny straw, a little mound of shaved chocolate, and in the center of the plate, a mint sorbet with a tiny plastic vial of concentrated mint flavoring to be dripped on the different chocolate . Wine with dinner, and coffee for dessert. The young waiter was very friendly with CH, and we took a picture of them together at the end of the evening. It was raining hard when we left, but we had already decided to take a taxi home.
Day 7, Tues.
Up early, and as we were getting ready to leave the apartment, CH said, “When we come back next year, . . .”
Shuttle-Inter was waiting for us as we exited the apartment; off to CDG, and several hours later we landed in Pgh, and our long-awaited adventure was over. It had been planned for several months, but for me, this trip had been in the making since CH’s birth. AS and I had traveled together several times in France, and it was very special for me to be with her and her daughter for this trip.
A big thank you to everyone who read this longer-than-intended report and also to those whose earlier reports of travel with children were helpful in planning this trip.
Moving along. . .
Day 5, Sunday in Lyon
Woke up to lots of rain, but that was ok b/c we were visiting, not sightseeing, and it only affected the plan to take the kids to a park. We had a big Sunday meal early afternoon at our hosts' beautiful and spacious apt., and they served fish, lots of vegetables with an aioli, and a super clafouti aux pommes for dessert. This family had been very good to AS during the year she lived in Lyon, and I have visited them in the past, also. We keep wanting them to come to the US so we can return the hospitality.
After lots of bises on one cheek and then the other and promises to get together again before so many years (we last saw these friends in 2000), around 4 we were dropped off at the other family's elegant house in Charbonieres, a suburb of Lyon. Champagne was uncorked, and we were served a wonderful Tarte Tropezienne, a cake that is sliced horizontally and filled with pastry cream. One of the "children" (now 27!) whom my daughter took care of was home with his lovely girlfriend, and it was great fun to be with these people again. French and English were mixed, even sometime in the same sentence (!), and I was able to keep up with this. Our hostess here had little gifts for each of us, and when I remarked on the pretty scent of the orange flower Savon de Marseille, she insisted that I take a large bottle home with me. (And since then I have found a place to order it here in the US)
Such good visits in Lyon and only too soon it was time to be driven to the gare for our 8:00 train to Paris. And we did take a taxi from the Gare de Lyon to our apt.!
Day 6, Mon.
We had no real agenda except to run around and get done all the little things we hadn’t had time for yet. Croissants at a cafe near St. Sulpice (instead of AS running to the local patisserie each morning to bring back our supply!) Then over to rue du Buci area for some gifts at Oliviers &Co., Cafe Coton for shirts for the men at home (the clerk here invited CH to go upstairs into the storeroom to help search for sizes), and another stop along the quai for a couple more little Eiffel Towers for CH’s friends at home, and the purchase of two pretty handbags for AS and my DIL at La Bagagerie. We then took a circuitous metro ride to La Tuile a Loup in the rue Monge area; I’d heard of this place for a long time, but it was disappointing because of the very high prices, too high in our opinion, for the rustic faience from the different regions. A small purchase here, and then the owner told us a quicker metro route for the return, after CH had mac and cheese at a little fast food place on the street. We went back to look at the linen dress I had seen on Fri. at Sixieme (rue du Dragon), and AS offered to buy it for me for Mo’s Day and my b-day; what a lucky mom to have such a sweet daughter, n’est-ce pas? Here we were on our last day and had not been to Laduree yet, so afternoon tea there where CH had an eclair au chocolat, and AS and I had mini macarons, the best in Paris. And late afternoon, we finally got to the Jardin du Luxembourg, which was beautifully abloom with chestnut trees and spring flowers. CH had a really good time there, but we had to leave before she was ready because of dinner reservations at Le Train Bleu. A tiny whine there, but all in all, a good sport about it.
We decided to take the metro to the Gare de Lyon (since, in fact, AS was correct in that it was an easy journey, if you don’t mind changing at Chatelet), and soon we were at LTB.
The maitre d’ gave CH a coloring book and box of crayons, and that got her busy right away. It is such a gorgeous place it seemed like the right spot for our last night in Paris. The food is good, but it’s really about the ambiance and decor--and history. AS and I had white asparagus for an entree, and we had steamed cod on a bed of vibrantly green asparagus, broad beans, peas, and broccoli in butter sauce with saffron for our main course; CH had the children’s meal and had the cod also, but they asked if she’d prefer frites to the green veggies. They brought a tiny “sauce boat” with ketchup for her frites. AS had “Alliance du Chocolat and de la Menthe” for dessert, and I chose Oeufs a la Neige Caramelises, and CH got ice cream with her meal, but we all shared. The chocolate dessert was artfully arranged on a square plate with chocolate mousse, a small, rich chocolate drink with a tiny straw, a little mound of shaved chocolate, and in the center of the plate, a mint sorbet with a tiny plastic vial of concentrated mint flavoring to be dripped on the different chocolate . Wine with dinner, and coffee for dessert. The young waiter was very friendly with CH, and we took a picture of them together at the end of the evening. It was raining hard when we left, but we had already decided to take a taxi home.
Day 7, Tues.
Up early, and as we were getting ready to leave the apartment, CH said, “When we come back next year, . . .”
Shuttle-Inter was waiting for us as we exited the apartment; off to CDG, and several hours later we landed in Pgh, and our long-awaited adventure was over. It had been planned for several months, but for me, this trip had been in the making since CH’s birth. AS and I had traveled together several times in France, and it was very special for me to be with her and her daughter for this trip.
A big thank you to everyone who read this longer-than-intended report and also to those whose earlier reports of travel with children were helpful in planning this trip.
May 26th, 2009, 04:31 PM
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Yes, thanks for the report. Glad mine was helpful. And I have to say that I really enjoyed the part of my trip when my mom came to visit so your daughter is lucky to have enjoyed the whole trip with her mom.
May 28th, 2009, 08:02 PM
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Eight would be a lot to take; perhaps age-related groupings?
For a few days after we returned, CH's 3 yr old brother would want to pack his suitcase to "go to Paris and see the Eiffel Tower", so I hope we're able to do this again in a few years. And then there's my son's one year old daughter, also. . .
For a few days after we returned, CH's 3 yr old brother would want to pack his suitcase to "go to Paris and see the Eiffel Tower", so I hope we're able to do this again in a few years. And then there's my son's one year old daughter, also. . .
Mar 14th, 2010, 01:53 AM
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Grandmere, I missed this great report earlier. So glad you referenced it on mimi's thread so I caught up with it. Wonderful reading. Wonderful to imagine how our first trip with our twin granddaughters will be. Actually we've been thinking of nothing else since we learned of their pending arrival a couple of years ago. They're now 17 months and the big question has been what's the earliest we can take them and your post has certainly helped answer that one for us. Thanks especially for the great list of books for kids to read in advance of the trip. This report is a keeper for sure.
Mar 14th, 2010, 07:02 AM
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Julie, I envy you that your first trip with your granddaughters is still ahead of you! Such a wonderful time you will have planning and then taking the trip--and memories forever. And double the fun with twins!
I have three younger grandchildren (CH's brother, almost 4, has heard lots about last year's trip and is very eager to see the Eiffel Tower) and hope to be able to do this trip with them in the future. Alas, as they get older, so do I
Did I miss your report of your trip to the Alps a few months ago?
Sue
I have three younger grandchildren (CH's brother, almost 4, has heard lots about last year's trip and is very eager to see the Eiffel Tower) and hope to be able to do this trip with them in the future. Alas, as they get older, so do I
Did I miss your report of your trip to the Alps a few months ago?
Sue
Mar 14th, 2010, 08:19 AM
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Yes, we need our granddaughters to grow up pretty quickly if we're going to be able to keep up with them in travel mode.
I have an ex-neighbor who has 25 grandchildren and has taken them all to Disney, Washington DC and some other venues--not all at once, you understand, but 2, 3 or even 10 at a time. Refuses to take siblings, only cousins so they'll get along better. Took all the boy grandchildren on a tour of various sports halls of fame (their grandpa played for the Red Sox). She's my hero--or heroine. Actually had a mini-bus to take them on day trips during the summer when she operated a sort of day-camp out of her lake home down the street from us. She is amazing.
No, you didn't miss my report from our Christmas in Chamonix. I've been putting it off. Actually I still need to finish the Nice part of our Fall Piemonte trip, then do the Chamonix/Lyon Christmas/New Year trip and finally also get to at least the restaurants we dined in during our just completed Barcelona trip. I guess I'd best get crackin' instead of thinking ahead to our Map Provence/Paris trip and even further ahead to the great Paris with the granddaughters trip some 4 or 5 years from now. Thanks for the nudge.
I have an ex-neighbor who has 25 grandchildren and has taken them all to Disney, Washington DC and some other venues--not all at once, you understand, but 2, 3 or even 10 at a time. Refuses to take siblings, only cousins so they'll get along better. Took all the boy grandchildren on a tour of various sports halls of fame (their grandpa played for the Red Sox). She's my hero--or heroine. Actually had a mini-bus to take them on day trips during the summer when she operated a sort of day-camp out of her lake home down the street from us. She is amazing.
No, you didn't miss my report from our Christmas in Chamonix. I've been putting it off. Actually I still need to finish the Nice part of our Fall Piemonte trip, then do the Chamonix/Lyon Christmas/New Year trip and finally also get to at least the restaurants we dined in during our just completed Barcelona trip. I guess I'd best get crackin' instead of thinking ahead to our Map Provence/Paris trip and even further ahead to the great Paris with the granddaughters trip some 4 or 5 years from now. Thanks for the nudge.
Mar 14th, 2010, 01:41 PM
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Grandmere, merci bien! i just loved your trip report....I am currently planning a trip to Paris with my soon-to-be 6 year old daughter and I have taken notes! I just wanted to let you know how much I enjoyed reading about your trip. a bientot (i hope to read about more trips soon!)...
Mar 14th, 2010, 03:32 PM
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Thanks again, all. Introducing someone you love (and especially a "little person") to a place you love--it doesn't get much better than that, does it?
Happy planning and travels; please make sure to come back and post about your trips.
Happy planning and travels; please make sure to come back and post about your trips.
