Paris Again...Never Better!
Oct 13th, 2011, 03:20 AM
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Paris Again...Never Better!
Last year, I went to Paris for two weeks by myself, staying in a rented apartment. This year, I had a house swap—a lovely two-bedroom apartment in Montmartre for three weeks—and I went with a friend of 50 years. Both trips were perfect and completely different. I’m thinking that it doesn’t really matter what I do in Paris, just being there makes me happy.
Because we were in the 18th arr., we needed to take metros and buses to a lot of the museums we wanted to see. My friend mastered both in no time, so we each had as much independence as we wanted. I love to get on and off buses in new places and just wander; she loves gardens. We each did this on our own, but spent a lot of time together in museums, walking the streets, and of course eating wonderful food.
Our apartment was around the corner from the Jules Joffrin Metro stop and a block away from the markets on Rue Poteau. It was an ideal location with any kind of food you’d desire, and bakeries on every corner. After considerable culinary research, we found the best of everything, and our house was filled with fresh bread, pastries, patés, cheeses, and yogurts every day. And the occasional roasted chicken. Even the Chinese take-out was good when everything else was closed! We were some distance from Sacré Coeur and that particular ambience, which suited us fine.
If you are in this neighborhood, be sure and check out the Mairie (town hall) just across from the Metro. It’s gorgeous—beautiful lighting and chandeliers, marble floors, curving staircases, and even a room especially for marriages…and I saw one taking place.
We walked to the Montmartre cemetery and I paid my respects once again to Francois Truffaut. Many metro tickets were scattered around his tomb this time in tribute to one of his last films, “The Last Metro.”
We found two excellent restaurants just a few blocks away from us:
At Le Sourire de Saigon (54, rue du Mont-Cenis) we had magnificent fish in divine sauces and sticky rice served in a bamboo tube. Never saw that before! Just up the same street, we found our favorite local restaurant: Le Coin des Amis (50 rue du Mont-Cenis). Everything we had there was good; very reasonable prices, and lovely people. This is where I would eat weekly if I lived there.
I wanted to go to La Table d’Eugene (18 rue Eugene-Sue) but was never able to get in and didn’t plan far enough ahead to make the necessary reservations . Near us was a brasserie called Cepage that had good food and jazz on Friday night. The escargots were especially good. We also ate at Mon Oncle (3 rue Durantin) which is near the Abesses metro. There I had pumpkin crème brulee for an entré! It was fabulous and I yearn for it still.
Other good restaurants were Caveau Palais on Sq. Dauphine…a good spot to eat before or after you take the night boat ride on the Seine from Pont Neuf. I had a fun lunch from the take-away counter at the spectacular Fauchon.
Passing by the Bristol Hotel (where Midnight in Paris was filmed), we decided we needed to go in and have a look. The dining room was quite grand. And we found a great bathroom--well hidden but worth the hunt.
We had fun going through an antique market on rue President Wilson on a Sunday. Right in the middle of the stalls, I got the most delicious duck paté sandwich with a side of wine and espresso. This was the only day we had that rained, and it was a great way to spend it. We also popped into the Palais de Tokyo across the street for a good lunch later in the day before heading to the Guimet nearby.
One day we spent in the Bois de Vincennes…just strolling around and ended up at Chateau Vincennes, which was fascinating. Would definitely recommend this if you’ve never done it.
Another first for me was the Bibliotheque Nationale de France (Richelieu site). The 1868 reading room is astonishing, as is their collection of Greek and Roman jewelry, vases, sculptures. The whole building is a marvel. There was a temporary exhibit of Illuminated Manuscripts from Islam that was as beautiful as anything I’ve ever seen. Here’s a link to some images…you can make them larger and even turn some pages in the books:
http://expositions.bnf.fr/islam/grand/isl_094.htm
I spent time looking at and for Art Nouveau buildings after having read “Parisian Architecture of the Belle Epoque” by Roy Johnston. It’s a great book and will take you to areas that you might not have spent much time in. I spent a day in the 16th looking at buildings by Hector Guimard and others. Castle Beranger at 14 Rue La Fontaine was especially fun. I didn’t get to half of the buildings I had expected to, but it was a great way to spend a day. We also took a tour of the Art Nouveau museum at Maxim’s. There was a lot of furniture by Majorelle but nothing as grand as you see in the Orsay or in Nancy.
We took the train to Nancy for a day (90 minutes on the TGV). Unfortunately, the two museums I wanted to see were closed, but we had a lovely day wandering through this beautiful city and having a meal at the Excelsior, a triumph of Art Nouveau splendor.
I had ordered tickets ahead of time to a chamber concert at the Palais Garnier. My friend wanted to sit in the orchestra and we couldn’t afford to do that for the ballet or opera, but the concert tickets were only 25 Euros each, and we sat in the 7th row under the wonderful Chagall ceiling. This is a great way to enjoy this magnificent venue. Afterwards, we had delicious kir at the Café de la Paix across the street from the opera. A magical evening.
A Fra Angelico exhibit opened at the Jacquemart André museum a few days before we left, and this was a real thrill. Other than the Louvre, I’ve only seen his work in Italy. There were 25 of his paintings, covering the range of his career. Even if you think you’re not interested in religious painting from the 15th century, this will knock you out. The exhibit will be on until mid-January and it’s open seven days a week.
Another exhibit I loved was Edvard Munch at the Pompidou. I think of him as being a dark and melancholic painter and the whole point of this exhibit was to show him in a new light—as an artist of great range and depth. I especially was drawn to his vibrant colors. It’s a large exhibit: 140 paintings, photographs, engravings, drawings, and sculptures and will be there until January.
In general, we had our best luck going to museums in the early evenings. We didn’t have to wait in lines and the exhibits were not crowded. In the Louvre on a Wednesday night, I had some galleries all to myself.
There was a Fete des Jardins on our last weekend: concerts and events taking place in all the gardens of Paris. We went to Jardin du Ranelagh in the 16th and heard a concert by the Marshmallows—whose music was billed as “the Beatles meet Jacques Brel.” Lots of families with little kids enjoying the music, and we sat for a long time enjoying it all. This lovely park is just across the street from the Marmottan museum, which shouldn’t be missed by Monet fans. There’s a Henri-Edmond Cross exhibit coming there this month that I am sorry to miss.
Then there were things I always do in Paris: go to the top of the Arch of Triumph at night to watch the Eiffel tower twinkle, stroll the Promenade Plantee, and visit the Musée du quai Branly, admiring the vertical garden on the walls. And don’t miss the photo show there on the Quai until mid-November.
I even found a great taxi driver to take us to the airport. He speaks perfect English (was a cab driver in London for 10 years) and will come to wherever you are to pick you up. Though it probably makes more sense to call him if you’re in the outer arrondissements. He’s very reliable. Taxi Parisien: 06.29.70.42.93. His name is Moussa.
Here are collages of some pictures I took:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/..._-Sharee-_-Top
Because we were in the 18th arr., we needed to take metros and buses to a lot of the museums we wanted to see. My friend mastered both in no time, so we each had as much independence as we wanted. I love to get on and off buses in new places and just wander; she loves gardens. We each did this on our own, but spent a lot of time together in museums, walking the streets, and of course eating wonderful food.
Our apartment was around the corner from the Jules Joffrin Metro stop and a block away from the markets on Rue Poteau. It was an ideal location with any kind of food you’d desire, and bakeries on every corner. After considerable culinary research, we found the best of everything, and our house was filled with fresh bread, pastries, patés, cheeses, and yogurts every day. And the occasional roasted chicken. Even the Chinese take-out was good when everything else was closed! We were some distance from Sacré Coeur and that particular ambience, which suited us fine.
If you are in this neighborhood, be sure and check out the Mairie (town hall) just across from the Metro. It’s gorgeous—beautiful lighting and chandeliers, marble floors, curving staircases, and even a room especially for marriages…and I saw one taking place.
We walked to the Montmartre cemetery and I paid my respects once again to Francois Truffaut. Many metro tickets were scattered around his tomb this time in tribute to one of his last films, “The Last Metro.”
We found two excellent restaurants just a few blocks away from us:
At Le Sourire de Saigon (54, rue du Mont-Cenis) we had magnificent fish in divine sauces and sticky rice served in a bamboo tube. Never saw that before! Just up the same street, we found our favorite local restaurant: Le Coin des Amis (50 rue du Mont-Cenis). Everything we had there was good; very reasonable prices, and lovely people. This is where I would eat weekly if I lived there.
I wanted to go to La Table d’Eugene (18 rue Eugene-Sue) but was never able to get in and didn’t plan far enough ahead to make the necessary reservations . Near us was a brasserie called Cepage that had good food and jazz on Friday night. The escargots were especially good. We also ate at Mon Oncle (3 rue Durantin) which is near the Abesses metro. There I had pumpkin crème brulee for an entré! It was fabulous and I yearn for it still.
Other good restaurants were Caveau Palais on Sq. Dauphine…a good spot to eat before or after you take the night boat ride on the Seine from Pont Neuf. I had a fun lunch from the take-away counter at the spectacular Fauchon.
Passing by the Bristol Hotel (where Midnight in Paris was filmed), we decided we needed to go in and have a look. The dining room was quite grand. And we found a great bathroom--well hidden but worth the hunt.
We had fun going through an antique market on rue President Wilson on a Sunday. Right in the middle of the stalls, I got the most delicious duck paté sandwich with a side of wine and espresso. This was the only day we had that rained, and it was a great way to spend it. We also popped into the Palais de Tokyo across the street for a good lunch later in the day before heading to the Guimet nearby.
One day we spent in the Bois de Vincennes…just strolling around and ended up at Chateau Vincennes, which was fascinating. Would definitely recommend this if you’ve never done it.
Another first for me was the Bibliotheque Nationale de France (Richelieu site). The 1868 reading room is astonishing, as is their collection of Greek and Roman jewelry, vases, sculptures. The whole building is a marvel. There was a temporary exhibit of Illuminated Manuscripts from Islam that was as beautiful as anything I’ve ever seen. Here’s a link to some images…you can make them larger and even turn some pages in the books:
http://expositions.bnf.fr/islam/grand/isl_094.htm
I spent time looking at and for Art Nouveau buildings after having read “Parisian Architecture of the Belle Epoque” by Roy Johnston. It’s a great book and will take you to areas that you might not have spent much time in. I spent a day in the 16th looking at buildings by Hector Guimard and others. Castle Beranger at 14 Rue La Fontaine was especially fun. I didn’t get to half of the buildings I had expected to, but it was a great way to spend a day. We also took a tour of the Art Nouveau museum at Maxim’s. There was a lot of furniture by Majorelle but nothing as grand as you see in the Orsay or in Nancy.
We took the train to Nancy for a day (90 minutes on the TGV). Unfortunately, the two museums I wanted to see were closed, but we had a lovely day wandering through this beautiful city and having a meal at the Excelsior, a triumph of Art Nouveau splendor.
I had ordered tickets ahead of time to a chamber concert at the Palais Garnier. My friend wanted to sit in the orchestra and we couldn’t afford to do that for the ballet or opera, but the concert tickets were only 25 Euros each, and we sat in the 7th row under the wonderful Chagall ceiling. This is a great way to enjoy this magnificent venue. Afterwards, we had delicious kir at the Café de la Paix across the street from the opera. A magical evening.
A Fra Angelico exhibit opened at the Jacquemart André museum a few days before we left, and this was a real thrill. Other than the Louvre, I’ve only seen his work in Italy. There were 25 of his paintings, covering the range of his career. Even if you think you’re not interested in religious painting from the 15th century, this will knock you out. The exhibit will be on until mid-January and it’s open seven days a week.
Another exhibit I loved was Edvard Munch at the Pompidou. I think of him as being a dark and melancholic painter and the whole point of this exhibit was to show him in a new light—as an artist of great range and depth. I especially was drawn to his vibrant colors. It’s a large exhibit: 140 paintings, photographs, engravings, drawings, and sculptures and will be there until January.
In general, we had our best luck going to museums in the early evenings. We didn’t have to wait in lines and the exhibits were not crowded. In the Louvre on a Wednesday night, I had some galleries all to myself.
There was a Fete des Jardins on our last weekend: concerts and events taking place in all the gardens of Paris. We went to Jardin du Ranelagh in the 16th and heard a concert by the Marshmallows—whose music was billed as “the Beatles meet Jacques Brel.” Lots of families with little kids enjoying the music, and we sat for a long time enjoying it all. This lovely park is just across the street from the Marmottan museum, which shouldn’t be missed by Monet fans. There’s a Henri-Edmond Cross exhibit coming there this month that I am sorry to miss.
Then there were things I always do in Paris: go to the top of the Arch of Triumph at night to watch the Eiffel tower twinkle, stroll the Promenade Plantee, and visit the Musée du quai Branly, admiring the vertical garden on the walls. And don’t miss the photo show there on the Quai until mid-November.
I even found a great taxi driver to take us to the airport. He speaks perfect English (was a cab driver in London for 10 years) and will come to wherever you are to pick you up. Though it probably makes more sense to call him if you’re in the outer arrondissements. He’s very reliable. Taxi Parisien: 06.29.70.42.93. His name is Moussa.
Here are collages of some pictures I took:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/..._-Sharee-_-Top
Oct 13th, 2011, 06:42 AM
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thank you Nancy for such interesting material. I just got back from Paris and I want to go right back to do some of the things you did! (saw the Fra Angelicos at the Jacquemart-Andre, tho - just lovely)
You did a lot of unusual things which really give us food for thought.
I was sure that Kerouac would love that you stayed in the 18th!
You did a lot of unusual things which really give us food for thought.
I was sure that Kerouac would love that you stayed in the 18th!
Oct 13th, 2011, 08:04 AM
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Sorry, put a bad link in for the Islam exhibit. Here's a better one:
http://expositions.bnf.fr/islam/albums/visite/index.htm
Kerouac, I get it completely. It's a wonderful residential area.
http://expositions.bnf.fr/islam/albums/visite/index.htm
Kerouac, I get it completely. It's a wonderful residential area.
Oct 13th, 2011, 08:46 AM
#8
Delightful review. We're always looking for new ideas and you gave us a few.
The house swap thing sounds so interesting, but I don't think anyone from Paris would be interested in staying in Oconomowoc, Wisconsin and having 2 cats sit on their lap!
The house swap thing sounds so interesting, but I don't think anyone from Paris would be interested in staying in Oconomowoc, Wisconsin and having 2 cats sit on their lap!
Oct 13th, 2011, 08:59 AM
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Sounds like you had a wonderful trip...we just got back on Oct. 7th,and now I'm itching to get back there again and take some of your recommendations...Montmartre isn't an area I know well, although we did head up there the day the Vendange was starting, although the festivities didn't start until that night, so nothing was really going on other than things being set up for the celebration. Did go back into Sacre Coeur for the first time in I don't even know how long, and I had forgotten what a magnificent church it is. The machines vending medallions were a bit off-putting, though..couldn't they at least put them outside?
Anyway, I've saved your report for next time...always looking for new places to stroll in my favorite city.
Anyway, I've saved your report for next time...always looking for new places to stroll in my favorite city.
Oct 13th, 2011, 09:16 AM
#11
Nice report, Nancy, and I enjoyed your photo collages. Is that the bathroom in the Bristol?
I often fantasize about a house swap. I have an apartment in San Francisco but it's on a bus line and therefore so, so noisy. Plus the dog. Ah, well.
I often fantasize about a house swap. I have an apartment in San Francisco but it's on a bus line and therefore so, so noisy. Plus the dog. Ah, well.
Oct 13th, 2011, 01:31 PM
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I loved your pictures and your report and the fact you enjoy so much your trip, makes one feel good I also fantasize with house swap I have an apart. on the beach in Miami Beach, great ocean view, actually very nice. Which agency did you used for the house swap maybe it is time to get real.
Oct 13th, 2011, 07:28 PM
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Thanks everyone for all the kind comments. To answer questions, from the bottom up:
I do the collages in Picasa.
All my house swaps have been on Craigslist, all very successful.
And, yes, that is the bathroom in the Bristol Hotel.
I do the collages in Picasa.
All my house swaps have been on Craigslist, all very successful.
And, yes, that is the bathroom in the Bristol Hotel.
