Palenque's Berlin Journal
Oct 25th, 2005, 08:26 AM
#101
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I have to disagree that Dresden is a 1-day town! I had only a single day to spend there last Spring, and regretted I didn't have at least 2 more.
One can probably 'do' the highlights in 1 day (I more or less did), but I felt I missed quite a bit, and was completely exhausted at day's end.
Besides, Dresdners are great people to hang out with. Don't shortchange yourself.
Fritzrl
One can probably 'do' the highlights in 1 day (I more or less did), but I felt I missed quite a bit, and was completely exhausted at day's end.
Besides, Dresdners are great people to hang out with. Don't shortchange yourself.
Fritzrl
Oct 25th, 2005, 09:15 AM
#102
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Fritzrl:
I have to agree - i should have said it could be a one-day town but really better as two. There are some interesting excursions from Dresden via steam trains that not only appeal to rail buffs but are scenic as well.
Agreed.
I have to agree - i should have said it could be a one-day town but really better as two. There are some interesting excursions from Dresden via steam trains that not only appeal to rail buffs but are scenic as well.
Agreed.
Oct 25th, 2005, 11:11 AM
#103
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And with Dresden was remiss not to mention Meissen, just a few miles on the Elbe north of Dresden - a nice old town with the world famous Meissen Porcelain factory which you can tour and see the ceramics being fashioned, see their museum, buy stuff - supposedly was the first 'China' clay factory in europe - one Germanic ruler cornered the market on scientists and holed them up in the local castle, a blockbuster sight on a hill, until they cracked the process of making hard ceramics - cornering the market in Europe for a while - it was considered like making gold. Anyway, Meissen a great stop by road or a short train trip from Dresden - about a half a day is fine.
Oct 25th, 2005, 12:19 PM
#105
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Bob, I am glad you mentioned Meissen. It is really a charming small town (and the vineyards nearby are well worth a visit - the wine is excellent, hick 
The cathedral in Meissen is stunning - it is considered to be the purest gothic style cathedral in Germany. The castle is amazing too.
Btw, the porcelain was not invented in Meissen. This wrong statement you can read in any guide book, probably because the name of the porcelain is "Meissen". In fact it was in the cellars below Brühl's terrace in Dresden where Böttger and Walter von Tschirnhaus worked on the porcelain making (the latter being the better, but unknown scientist). After Saxony's ruler had realised the importance of their invention the porcelain manufacture was transferred to the castle of Meissen.
The cathedral in Meissen is stunning - it is considered to be the purest gothic style cathedral in Germany. The castle is amazing too.
Btw, the porcelain was not invented in Meissen. This wrong statement you can read in any guide book, probably because the name of the porcelain is "Meissen". In fact it was in the cellars below Brühl's terrace in Dresden where Böttger and Walter von Tschirnhaus worked on the porcelain making (the latter being the better, but unknown scientist). After Saxony's ruler had realised the importance of their invention the porcelain manufacture was transferred to the castle of Meissen.
Oct 27th, 2005, 12:04 PM
#106
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Ingo - thanks for clarifying the gold rush at Meissen and Meissen itself.
Now back to Berlin
NOLLENDORFER PLATZ
I had a hotel near here and walked thru the square every night - something struck me as weird but it was only when i saw the huge billboard with a picture of a bare-chested male hunk on it advertising some gay thing did i look around and see that this seemed to be one of Berlin's gay centres - so if that's you're orientation keep it in mind.
Now back to Berlin
NOLLENDORFER PLATZ
I had a hotel near here and walked thru the square every night - something struck me as weird but it was only when i saw the huge billboard with a picture of a bare-chested male hunk on it advertising some gay thing did i look around and see that this seemed to be one of Berlin's gay centres - so if that's you're orientation keep it in mind.
Oct 27th, 2005, 02:02 PM
#107
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Nollendorf Platz is, indeed, a very well-known Gay neighborhood in Berlin, and has been since at least the early part of the 20th century.
The most moving part of my afternoon there was to see the very large plaque on the exterior wall of the S-Bahn station, a memorial to the thousands of Gay men (and perhaps women) who died in the Holocaust.
For people-watching, Nollendorf simply can't be beat, regardless of one's orientation. And very good restaurants seem cheek-by-jowl on the main street (almost said 'main drag').
Fritzrl
The most moving part of my afternoon there was to see the very large plaque on the exterior wall of the S-Bahn station, a memorial to the thousands of Gay men (and perhaps women) who died in the Holocaust.
For people-watching, Nollendorf simply can't be beat, regardless of one's orientation. And very good restaurants seem cheek-by-jowl on the main street (almost said 'main drag').
Fritzrl
Oct 28th, 2005, 01:01 PM
#108
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SACHSENHAUSEN CONCENTRATION CAMP
Here's another thing in Berlin that i haven't had time to visit but wish too - not that i really enjoy these type places but because visiting them always makes me realize how uncivil even the most civilized of societies can become given the right circumstances. I've seen Auschwitz and Dachau so i don't think i'd see much different here but still it's on my list. It's estimated that some 100,000 died in its confines. The camp has several museums and loads of photos documenting the horrors perpetrated here. Included are two barracks rebuilt after they were burnt down by neo-Nazis in 1992. (S-Bahn line 1 to Oranienburg, the camp is 2 km northeast of the station. Camp open daily; free.)
Have you been there - what do you think?
Here's another thing in Berlin that i haven't had time to visit but wish too - not that i really enjoy these type places but because visiting them always makes me realize how uncivil even the most civilized of societies can become given the right circumstances. I've seen Auschwitz and Dachau so i don't think i'd see much different here but still it's on my list. It's estimated that some 100,000 died in its confines. The camp has several museums and loads of photos documenting the horrors perpetrated here. Included are two barracks rebuilt after they were burnt down by neo-Nazis in 1992. (S-Bahn line 1 to Oranienburg, the camp is 2 km northeast of the station. Camp open daily; free.)
Have you been there - what do you think?
Nov 1st, 2005, 11:52 AM
#109
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ETAP HOTELS
Perhaps i mentioned this before but can't remember - but if looking for a hotel with modern facilities and cheap, look for the several ETAP hotels in the Berlin area - mainly on the periphery they are great for motorists. One that is very easy to reach by rail is in Marzahn - a rather blah area on the edge of old East Berlin - but the ETAP is just a short hop from the Marzahn S-Bahn station, which has great train links to Berlin mainline stations. Best of all the price - about 35 euros for a room for up to three people! (www.accorhotels.com) I stayed there and found it good but i'm the type that doesn't mind staying out of the tourist center, in real neighborhoods.
Perhaps i mentioned this before but can't remember - but if looking for a hotel with modern facilities and cheap, look for the several ETAP hotels in the Berlin area - mainly on the periphery they are great for motorists. One that is very easy to reach by rail is in Marzahn - a rather blah area on the edge of old East Berlin - but the ETAP is just a short hop from the Marzahn S-Bahn station, which has great train links to Berlin mainline stations. Best of all the price - about 35 euros for a room for up to three people! (www.accorhotels.com) I stayed there and found it good but i'm the type that doesn't mind staying out of the tourist center, in real neighborhoods.
Nov 2nd, 2005, 10:27 AM
#110
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KREUZBERG
Before the wall came down Kreuzberg was West Berlin's Bohemian section. A lot of the counter-culture stuff moved east after the wall fell because of cheap real estate and rents but the area still retains a distinct look - especially since it's also home to thousands of Turks - allowed to immigrate to Germany as guest workers due to labor shortages in the 60s and on - much like Hispanics in the States, doing jobs Germans no longer like to do.
Kreuzberg has Berlin's largest Turkish market - i think i've read there's about a million or so Turks in Berlin - not sure about exact number but it's huge and this market and the streets around it serve as an epicenter of Turkish life - the tea and coffee and Turkish food and good shops being redolent of Istanbul, etc.
The market stretches for about a half-mile on the southern side of the Landwehrkanal and is open Tue-Fri from around noon to 6pm. It's a short walk from the Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn stop, which is at the heart of Turkish Kreuzberg.
Along the canal west from the U-bahn stop is an area of luxurious pre-war houses. Bergmannstrasse is Kreuzberg's main drag.
So for something different try Kreuzberg.
Before the wall came down Kreuzberg was West Berlin's Bohemian section. A lot of the counter-culture stuff moved east after the wall fell because of cheap real estate and rents but the area still retains a distinct look - especially since it's also home to thousands of Turks - allowed to immigrate to Germany as guest workers due to labor shortages in the 60s and on - much like Hispanics in the States, doing jobs Germans no longer like to do.
Kreuzberg has Berlin's largest Turkish market - i think i've read there's about a million or so Turks in Berlin - not sure about exact number but it's huge and this market and the streets around it serve as an epicenter of Turkish life - the tea and coffee and Turkish food and good shops being redolent of Istanbul, etc.
The market stretches for about a half-mile on the southern side of the Landwehrkanal and is open Tue-Fri from around noon to 6pm. It's a short walk from the Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn stop, which is at the heart of Turkish Kreuzberg.
Along the canal west from the U-bahn stop is an area of luxurious pre-war houses. Bergmannstrasse is Kreuzberg's main drag.
So for something different try Kreuzberg.
Nov 9th, 2005, 12:35 PM
#111
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BERLIN'S NEWEST AND OLDEST TRAIN STATIONS
As mentioned before Berlin's new central train station is nearly completion just north of the Reichstag/federal ministries complex. I sits along the main S-Bahn route that runs thru the heart of Berlin - replacing the old Lehrter Bahnhof S-Bahn station. It's a gleaming nearly all glass structure that will serve trains coming to Berlin from all directions - a new north-south rail link under central Berlin will provide access from all four directions. The S-Bahn platforms are now in use so you can get off in the station - which, when finished, will be the typical Germany Hauptbahnhof - a veritable shopping mall as well - replacing the cramped Zoo station as Berlin's main station.
Opposite the new Hauptbahnhof is Berlin's oldest train shed, the Hamburger Bahnhof, now used as a modern art museum of good repute but still retaining its train shed look. Its collection is supposedly first rate with the likes of Warhol, Liechtenstein, etc., though i'm not art aficiando to comment intelligently on its collection.
As mentioned before Berlin's new central train station is nearly completion just north of the Reichstag/federal ministries complex. I sits along the main S-Bahn route that runs thru the heart of Berlin - replacing the old Lehrter Bahnhof S-Bahn station. It's a gleaming nearly all glass structure that will serve trains coming to Berlin from all directions - a new north-south rail link under central Berlin will provide access from all four directions. The S-Bahn platforms are now in use so you can get off in the station - which, when finished, will be the typical Germany Hauptbahnhof - a veritable shopping mall as well - replacing the cramped Zoo station as Berlin's main station.
Opposite the new Hauptbahnhof is Berlin's oldest train shed, the Hamburger Bahnhof, now used as a modern art museum of good repute but still retaining its train shed look. Its collection is supposedly first rate with the likes of Warhol, Liechtenstein, etc., though i'm not art aficiando to comment intelligently on its collection.
Nov 9th, 2005, 01:15 PM
#112
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What a fantastic journal. I was in Berlin 1973 and again 1993. It looks like I need to go again to see the latest changes. I remember in 1993 coming into the Lichtenburg(?) Bahnhof late at night from Dresden and the whole of the eastern part of the city was almost in darkness whereas the area around the Zoo was humming with activity. It must have changed by now. In 1973 we went on the S Bahn through the closed and deserted stations under the Wall to Friedrichstrasse. Spooky. Time for another visit. Thanks for the inspiration.
Nov 18th, 2005, 09:34 AM
#113
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thanks for nice comments Gertie.
THE KAUFHAUS DES WESTENS or KaDeWe is Berlin's most famous department store and a visit to this legendary emporium is a de rigueur thing on many tourists list - most head to the upper floors and the famed food halls where a cornucopia of delights await - kind of like the Berlin version of Harrods or Selfridges.
THE KAUFHAUS DES WESTENS or KaDeWe is Berlin's most famous department store and a visit to this legendary emporium is a de rigueur thing on many tourists list - most head to the upper floors and the famed food halls where a cornucopia of delights await - kind of like the Berlin version of Harrods or Selfridges.
Jan 5th, 2006, 10:44 AM
#114
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OLYMPIC STADIUM UPDATE
Just read a bit about Berlin's Olympic Stadium that updates my earlier comments:
As Berlin is staging the final of the World Cup Football Cup in the summer of 2006 the old Olympic Stadium has been completely revamped - with a roof that covers the stands but not the field.
The debate was whether to build a new stadium designed just for soccer, which Berlin lacks, or revamp the old Olympic Stadium - the tipping point was that if they built a new stadium there would not be impetus or money to keep the old one in good repair, thus the renovation of the old one has just been finished.
But it was a dicey subject whether to showcase the Nazi-era old stadium and its associations with Hitler and the 1936 Olympic games - and though the renovations have resulted in basically a new stadium certain artifacts such as Hitler's box have been left as a glassed in space. And many fans arriving for the games will have to pass thru a new building that shows the history of the stadium, including the Nazi era, with of course the intent to discredit Hitler and the Nazis.
As the World Cup, though being staged all over Germany, has some games and the final in Berlin, of course travel to Berlin during these weeks will see hotels in short supply and the threat of revelling football hooligans from places like Manchester and Liverpool may make it a time when you want to avoid the city.
Just read a bit about Berlin's Olympic Stadium that updates my earlier comments:
As Berlin is staging the final of the World Cup Football Cup in the summer of 2006 the old Olympic Stadium has been completely revamped - with a roof that covers the stands but not the field.
The debate was whether to build a new stadium designed just for soccer, which Berlin lacks, or revamp the old Olympic Stadium - the tipping point was that if they built a new stadium there would not be impetus or money to keep the old one in good repair, thus the renovation of the old one has just been finished.
But it was a dicey subject whether to showcase the Nazi-era old stadium and its associations with Hitler and the 1936 Olympic games - and though the renovations have resulted in basically a new stadium certain artifacts such as Hitler's box have been left as a glassed in space. And many fans arriving for the games will have to pass thru a new building that shows the history of the stadium, including the Nazi era, with of course the intent to discredit Hitler and the Nazis.
As the World Cup, though being staged all over Germany, has some games and the final in Berlin, of course travel to Berlin during these weeks will see hotels in short supply and the threat of revelling football hooligans from places like Manchester and Liverpool may make it a time when you want to avoid the city.
Jan 5th, 2006, 11:40 PM
#115
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Hi PalQ - how interesting ! Thanks.
I know what you mean about avoiding the place during the World Cup, though. I'm just glad that Wales didn't qualify, as otherwise my hubby would have wanted us both to go
I know what you mean about avoiding the place during the World Cup, though. I'm just glad that Wales didn't qualify, as otherwise my hubby would have wanted us both to go
Jan 6th, 2006, 12:40 AM
#116
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Hi !
I loved Berlin during my visit last year. It just has to be one of the most interesting cities in Europe to visit.
I kept a journal of my few days in the German capital. Please feel free to read my thoughts and view my photographs at the following link.
http://www.colin-julie.com/Berlinindex.htm
I loved Berlin during my visit last year. It just has to be one of the most interesting cities in Europe to visit.
I kept a journal of my few days in the German capital. Please feel free to read my thoughts and view my photographs at the following link.
http://www.colin-julie.com/Berlinindex.htm
Mar 21st, 2006, 06:27 AM
#118
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PALACE OF THE REPULIK UPDATE
The decision to demolish the Palace of the Republik talked about above apparently has been made in spite of vocal protests from quarters who want it preserved as a momento of the DDR era in East Berlin. (Ingo said this is in a recent post). Though perhaps not irrevocable soon the palace may only be a memory - whether plans to rebuilt the old Schloss torn down in the 1950s will take place remains to be seen. Will keep posted and anyone who has new info on this please add it in.
The decision to demolish the Palace of the Republik talked about above apparently has been made in spite of vocal protests from quarters who want it preserved as a momento of the DDR era in East Berlin. (Ingo said this is in a recent post). Though perhaps not irrevocable soon the palace may only be a memory - whether plans to rebuilt the old Schloss torn down in the 1950s will take place remains to be seen. Will keep posted and anyone who has new info on this please add it in.
