P_M Roams Romania, Travels in Transilvania
Jul 20th, 2009, 07:21 AM
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Here's another bit of info for those who have been to Romania: As you may recall there were ~30,000 lei to the US$. Hence $100 US would equal 3,000,000 lei. When I got there I was pleasantly surprised to see they have changed their currency so now there are only 3 lei to the US$.
This was a relief. I do not like thinking in such big numbers. It's really no fun to be a multi-millionaire for only $100.
This was a relief. I do not like thinking in such big numbers. It's really no fun to be a multi-millionaire for only $100.
Jul 20th, 2009, 10:18 AM
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Pam:
Thank you for this very nostalgic and well crafted report. <b>But first, please accept my best thoughts for hopeful results this Thursday. I'm sure you will keep us informed</b>.
I'm sure Adrian will agree when I mention that in my many forays into Romania during the pre-revolutionary days of the 70's and 80's, things were different, and Stalin's sisters were everywhere! Some of his brothers, nephews and cousins, too. The Romanian army road blocks which I facetiously referred to as "RRB's", were ubiquitous, causing a traveler with foreign plates untold anxieties (I usually rented in Germany or Austria...and eventually broke a few laws doing so). Crossing into and leaving the country was an adventure, also...especially from Bulgaria.
One of the Marine guards at the US Embassy once clued me in to exactly how I was being "observed" and "recorded" while traveling the countryside. After the Ceausescu regime was liquidated, everything seemed to soften up (albeit slowly). But before that(and for a while after) there were severe shortages of petrol and food..adding to one's anxiety and frustrations. Needless to say, I always kept the car no less than half full but even then came perilously close to the empty mark when stations were closed or non existent....and we carried whatever foodstuffs we could muster with us. The occasional restaurants had menus of many pages, but only one or two items were "available"...hotels were the best chances for a passable meal.
None of this took away much from the intriguing beauties and history of the country or the welcoming (although reticent)warmth of it's downtrodden. Many people I had interviewed were very cautious in their conversatons (who could blame them?)and no doubt had to be assured that I was not "Securitate"....I had taken great pains to bring along proof that I was not. My California driver's license did the trick usually...but not always!
After the revolution, I made a few more trips into the country and most recently (2005) even escorted 16 of my readership on a broad tour of the country. They all enjoyed it immensely.
As to Thursdaysd's comments on Maramuresh (she and I corresponded in the past)..better believe it...unimaginable scenes of yesteryear at every turn. You must return to see it someday. I'm happy you got to see the frescoe'd churches of Bukovina..and to experience Sighishoara. We have stayed at Casa Wagner in the latter and Casa Elena in the former....but in earlier visits, most lodgings were unappealing at best.
Escorting my people in '05, we had to cut a wide swath around the Delta where the bird flu scare had caused warnings, detours and closings throughout the area. I had been there on previous travels and felt badly that the others would have to miss it. Very unique geography.
All in all, Pam, you seemed to have gotten a lot out of your visit. Happy that you did. Your report says it all in a most pleasing manner.
<b>Once again, the very best wishes for a healthy result.</b>
Stu Tower [email protected]
Thank you for this very nostalgic and well crafted report. <b>But first, please accept my best thoughts for hopeful results this Thursday. I'm sure you will keep us informed</b>.
I'm sure Adrian will agree when I mention that in my many forays into Romania during the pre-revolutionary days of the 70's and 80's, things were different, and Stalin's sisters were everywhere! Some of his brothers, nephews and cousins, too. The Romanian army road blocks which I facetiously referred to as "RRB's", were ubiquitous, causing a traveler with foreign plates untold anxieties (I usually rented in Germany or Austria...and eventually broke a few laws doing so). Crossing into and leaving the country was an adventure, also...especially from Bulgaria.
One of the Marine guards at the US Embassy once clued me in to exactly how I was being "observed" and "recorded" while traveling the countryside. After the Ceausescu regime was liquidated, everything seemed to soften up (albeit slowly). But before that(and for a while after) there were severe shortages of petrol and food..adding to one's anxiety and frustrations. Needless to say, I always kept the car no less than half full but even then came perilously close to the empty mark when stations were closed or non existent....and we carried whatever foodstuffs we could muster with us. The occasional restaurants had menus of many pages, but only one or two items were "available"...hotels were the best chances for a passable meal.
None of this took away much from the intriguing beauties and history of the country or the welcoming (although reticent)warmth of it's downtrodden. Many people I had interviewed were very cautious in their conversatons (who could blame them?)and no doubt had to be assured that I was not "Securitate"....I had taken great pains to bring along proof that I was not. My California driver's license did the trick usually...but not always!
After the revolution, I made a few more trips into the country and most recently (2005) even escorted 16 of my readership on a broad tour of the country. They all enjoyed it immensely.
As to Thursdaysd's comments on Maramuresh (she and I corresponded in the past)..better believe it...unimaginable scenes of yesteryear at every turn. You must return to see it someday. I'm happy you got to see the frescoe'd churches of Bukovina..and to experience Sighishoara. We have stayed at Casa Wagner in the latter and Casa Elena in the former....but in earlier visits, most lodgings were unappealing at best.
Escorting my people in '05, we had to cut a wide swath around the Delta where the bird flu scare had caused warnings, detours and closings throughout the area. I had been there on previous travels and felt badly that the others would have to miss it. Very unique geography.
All in all, Pam, you seemed to have gotten a lot out of your visit. Happy that you did. Your report says it all in a most pleasing manner.
<b>Once again, the very best wishes for a healthy result.</b>
Stu Tower [email protected]
Jul 20th, 2009, 10:54 AM
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Wonderful report as always, P_M! Loved the trailer too! I was just going to take a quick peek as I really needed to get my rear up from the computer chair and get moving. Wound up reading your whole report and all the responses! Just couldn't "put it down" once I'd started! Thanks so much for sharing.
And how wonderful that you got to meet Tiff! I'm so jealous!
And how wonderful that you got to meet Tiff! I'm so jealous!
Jul 20th, 2009, 03:01 PM
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Thanks again, especially for the good health wishes. Here's a quick update for anyone unaware of what's going on. Just 3 days after returning from this trip I went to the ER with stabbing pains in my side and they discovered I have a 6 cm mass in my lung. I am so thankful this did not flare up and get discovered in Romania, as the news of a mass in my lung would have ended the trip immediately. It would have been awful to hear news like that when I'm so far away and I would have been on the next plane home.
The first biopsy didn't reveal cancer but it was still inconclusive as they didn't get an adequate sample for cancer testing. But the results from my second biopsy were very encouraging and they are still not finding cancer. The samples are also being tested for a lung infection or fungus, but those cultures take 6 weeks to grow so it could be early August before any results come back. In the meantime I'm being treated with antibiotics as infection now seems the most likely cause. On Thursday I'm having an X-Ray to see if the mass is shrinking. I feel a lot better so I hope that means the shrink factor is kicking in and this nasty mass is fading away!! I'll post an update when I know more.
Back to the trip, this is very interesting to hear how different Romania was back in the Communist days. Although some of what I'm reading sounds a bit scary, I almost wish I could have gone back then just to see how different it is today. Thank you for sharing these stories.
The first biopsy didn't reveal cancer but it was still inconclusive as they didn't get an adequate sample for cancer testing. But the results from my second biopsy were very encouraging and they are still not finding cancer. The samples are also being tested for a lung infection or fungus, but those cultures take 6 weeks to grow so it could be early August before any results come back. In the meantime I'm being treated with antibiotics as infection now seems the most likely cause. On Thursday I'm having an X-Ray to see if the mass is shrinking. I feel a lot better so I hope that means the shrink factor is kicking in and this nasty mass is fading away!! I'll post an update when I know more.
Back to the trip, this is very interesting to hear how different Romania was back in the Communist days. Although some of what I'm reading sounds a bit scary, I almost wish I could have gone back then just to see how different it is today. Thank you for sharing these stories.
Jul 20th, 2009, 04:50 PM
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Thursdaysd, yes I am very lucky to have good insurance and a good pulmonologist. I would hate to be facing this illness without access to good medical care, but that's for another thread. 
Jul 20th, 2009, 07:33 PM
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P_M,
Let me say thanks first for a great trip report. I enjoyed this a lot, and finally got to read it end to end once the baby was down for the night. Also a thanks for being kind enough to mention my old one. 2004 - I can't believe it's been 5 yrs!
I had to laugh when you were talking about the old ways and Romanian style. We'd gotten adept at the line "eet ees not posseebull" at every turn, even to simple things like ordering a sandwich.
Saw what you said about the "eyes". Just an FYI, it's the city if Sibiu that's most famous for those. Almost every building of an age has them there. When you go back for Maramures (and you should - it makes the rest of Transylvania look positively modern) you must promise to visit Sibiu! My fav of the Romanian cities.
That said, the biggest thanks is for adding to the message that Romania shouldn't be overlooked. I'm sad when I see talk of Europe and whether it's affordable or not automatically assume only western Europe. Romania is so unique and really engaging, even if a bit of a challenge. Having old churches and castles and monasteries all to ones self isn't a bad thing.
ps - we're working on a strong possibility of a Peru trip for Sept, (before we pick up and move to Australia). My turn to follow you around! I'm pulling that report back up next.
Let me say thanks first for a great trip report. I enjoyed this a lot, and finally got to read it end to end once the baby was down for the night. Also a thanks for being kind enough to mention my old one. 2004 - I can't believe it's been 5 yrs!
I had to laugh when you were talking about the old ways and Romanian style. We'd gotten adept at the line "eet ees not posseebull" at every turn, even to simple things like ordering a sandwich.
Saw what you said about the "eyes". Just an FYI, it's the city if Sibiu that's most famous for those. Almost every building of an age has them there. When you go back for Maramures (and you should - it makes the rest of Transylvania look positively modern) you must promise to visit Sibiu! My fav of the Romanian cities.
That said, the biggest thanks is for adding to the message that Romania shouldn't be overlooked. I'm sad when I see talk of Europe and whether it's affordable or not automatically assume only western Europe. Romania is so unique and really engaging, even if a bit of a challenge. Having old churches and castles and monasteries all to ones self isn't a bad thing.
ps - we're working on a strong possibility of a Peru trip for Sept, (before we pick up and move to Australia). My turn to follow you around! I'm pulling that report back up next.
Jul 20th, 2009, 08:53 PM
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Clifton...not hijacking, just saying a happy hello..I figured we'd "meet" again when Romania appears in the title. How's that little doll?...I so clearly remember when you were on "house arrest" in Moscow. More or less.
Stu Tower
Stu Tower
Jul 21st, 2009, 04:06 PM
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Thank you all again.
thursdaysd, wonderful pics!! It looks like we visited some of the same monasteries. I'll check out your TR later.
Clifton, I do regret missing Sibiu. When I re-read your report I noticed Sibiu was not in the itinerary of my trip and I was a little sad. But that's OK, I saw a lot of other great places and I found at least one house with eyes in Sigishoara. If you need any help with your upcoming Peru trip I will be happy to answer your questions if I can.
thursdaysd, wonderful pics!! It looks like we visited some of the same monasteries. I'll check out your TR later.
Clifton, I do regret missing Sibiu. When I re-read your report I noticed Sibiu was not in the itinerary of my trip and I was a little sad. But that's OK, I saw a lot of other great places and I found at least one house with eyes in Sigishoara.
If you need any help with your upcoming Peru trip I will be happy to answer your questions if I can.
