General observations and tips for newbies:

Avoid connecting flights on ?partner airlines? at all costs. We got a great Newark-Dublin price from Continental but it required a transfer to Aer Lingus in London. I?ll spare the details but suffice it to say that it was full of hassles and not worth the savings.

Allow several hours to adjust to driving on the left ? it helps to have a co-pilot who reminds you at times. I found the biggest problem to be remembering to stay to the left when pulling out into traffic from parking lots etc.

Renting the smallest car that is practical for your needs does make driving easier on the narrower roads.

If your travel take you through cities, allow plenty of time for traffic delays in getting through those areas. I drive stick every day at home and found shifting with the left hand to be very easy to adapt to. If you rarely drive stick pay the extra $$ and get auto transmission. I opted for the extra CDW coverage that kept my out-of-pocket maximum liability to $100 Euro. Cost me an extra $7 Euro per day but was worth it for peace of mind.

When driving on narrow streets in small towns or leaving the car parked, it?s not a bad idea to fold back the side mirrors ? we nicked ours a few times on the mirrors of other cars because clearance was so limited.

Contrary to what we?d been told, the bank at the Dublin airport was NOT open to do money exchange on the weekend. Might have been because it was a bank holiday weekend. Do NOT use the exchange services you see when first getting off the plane ? some of them have a flat rate of $2 or $3 Euro but also add a 2.25% service charge. The Bureau de Change in the departure ticketing area next to the bank did exchanges at $3.50 Euro flat rate. We wanted to exchange about $800 and that made more sense than doing two separate ATM withdrawals with the fees associated with them.

Road signs were fairly easy to follow except in a few remote locations where signs were completely in Gaelic. When leaving a town in the West to do day trips, make note of the Gaelic name of the town ? it may help if you?re randomly taking back roads as we did and then looking for a way back.

Food in rural areas and small tourist towns (e.g. Dingle) is surprisingly expensive. We economized when possible by getting snacks from the SuperValue grocery and also a 5 liter bottle of water that was used to refill smaller bottles. Better restaurants tend to be expensive - $23 to $30 Euros is not uncommon for entrée with one side dish. We ate well at breakfast, snacked or had a deli sandwich at lunch and often got a soup, an appetizer and one entrée to share at dinner (we weren?t all that hungry). Pub food is a more moderately priced alternative but even it is not as moderate as comparable food in the US. Food quality was hit or miss ? we had our best meals in Galway or Dublin and found it tougher to get a good meal in Dingle and Wicklow Mountains areas.

The legendary friendliness of the people is not a myth but don?t be alarmed if you find restaurant servers or shop clerks in some busier tourist areas to be a bit on the indifferent side, sometimes even bordering on brusque. We had this experience and although we are an interracial couple (my GF is African-American), I don?t think racial attitudes were a factor. I attribute it rather to the burnout factor and low wages of those service professions ? we spoke to fellow B&B guests who had similar experiences.

Part I

Arrived Dublin at noon. Got car from Argus Rentals ? they were fine. Car was a brand new Peugeot ? nice solid car but proved to have a seat back that won?t go to a completely upright position. Could never find a truly comfortable driving position ? was advised when I returned the car that this is common to the new Peugeots ? try for a Nissan Micro or comparable Fiat instead.

Short and easy drive to Glendalough in Wicklow Mountains area. Stayed at Derrymore house ? it?s about one or two km past the village center and on a hill above the upper lake. Wonderful view, great property and Penny Kelleher is a very friendly proprietor. Stayed two nights at $60 Euro per night and only downside was a very uncomfortable mattress. Was advised that it was a new mattress but there were no box springs and we could feel the coils through the mattress surface. Despite this? we loved this place and would stay here again.

Dinner first night at Wicklow Heather restaurant in Glendalough ? overpriced, mediocre food and indifferent service ? not recommended. Dinner second night at Glendalough hotel ? not cheap ($11 Euro for a burger with fries) but decent food and friendly service.

Wandered the monastery ruins and drove the back roads around the area during the day. If coming in through Dublin this area is an ideal place to decompress and relax before heading out to the countryside.

Third day was raining hard and we got a very late start on the day. Drove to Cashel and stayed at Dualla House ? it?s about 4 km out of town on a working sheep farm and a magnificent property. Mrs. Power, the proprietor is a lovely and congenial lady. Great bed, nice linens and the only place that included shampoo and conditioner for the bath - $80 Euro per night.

Nosed around Cashel and had an early dinner ? very few choices available because it was Monday and also a bank holiday. At Tavern 20. Okay meal ? not all that memorable but moderately priced. Rain had cleared after dinner and we admired Rock of Cashel from the outside.

Part II

Pouring rain and high winds on day 4. We scratched the plans to tour Rock of Cashel and Cahir and started the drive to Dingle. Had a leisurely drive with a stop in Kilkenny after the rain cleared. Viewed the Kilkenny castle from the outside but the GF had no desire to tour it. We did some shopping and has terrific dessert crepes and a mediocre mocha latte at a small café. Arrived Dingle town at about 5 PM.

Our room was at Columnar House, just outside town on the harbor. It was a fantastic location, best bathroom facilities of the entire trip and really a lovely room. We were on a corner with an incredible view of the harbor. I can only describe the proprietors as businesslike in their interactions with us ? almost bordering on brusque. On our second day there I asked a question of Michael, the husband, when I saw him in the hallway. He had checked us in the day before but didn?t recognize me and asked if I was registered there as a guest. His demeanor and that of his wife (who served us breakfast) was not downright unfriendly but I felt that were just a number ? another paying guest. From a personal interaction standpoint this was the only place we stayed on the trip that we have no desire to stay in again. We felt like guests who were appreciated on our other stays but felt like we might as well have been in a motel or hotel when we were at Clonmara. We are an interracial couple (my GF is African-American) but I?m not assuming that this was a factor ? it seemed more like the proprietors were busy and just didn?t have time to interact with the guests. Cost was $56 Euro per night. Quality of the accommodations and location are top shelf ? if those are primary criteria it?s a good choice.

Had planned to stay three days and thoroughly tour the peninsula but after making it 15 miles or so out the Slea Head Drive my GF was complaining bitterly about the narrow and (to her) scary roads. I was forced to return to Dingle and alter plans to spend the next two days in Galway in more city oriented activities.

We played a later afternoon game at the 18 hole par 3 Pitch ?n Putt that?s just behind Clonmara House. Great deal at $5 Euro per person and lots of fun.

Dingle dining included fish ?n chips and fried calamari at Marina Inn (fair to middling quality),
chicken wrap and corned beef has cakes at the Smokehouse (very good) and baby monkfish and salad at the Forge (good). I was disappointed to find that the chips/fries in every place we ate were of the generic frozen variety and not especially good. I asked for potatoes with my dinner at the Forge and was advised ?we?re all out of potatoes?. A bit strange to be out of potatoes in Ireland, isn?t it? There?s a launderette in Dingle on the Alley off the street across from the church ? had a load washed, dried and folded for $10 Euro ? great way to allow light packing.

It?s a nice little town ? touristy but friendly and a great place to be based for day trips. I hope to return.

Part III

Day 5 had us on the road to Galway. It rained on and off all day and was a hard driving rain with high winds when we arrived in Galway. Called ahead to the Marless House and got their last available room. It?s a fairly new Georgian style house in Salthill, a few km from the city centre. Mary, the proprietor, is incredibly warm and engaging and really a treasure. We stayed two nights and were made to feel like family rather than just guests. It?s about 100 yards off the main road by the harbor and an easy walk to the Promenade. She served us coffee and tea after our arrival and spent time discussing our touring options. Breakfast was the best of the trip and included the option of French toast and fresh scones (not offered elsewhere on our trip). Price was $60 Euro per night.

We ate Italian both nights in Galway and had decent meals at more reasonable prices than in Dingle or Glendalough. Daytime touring was a drive through the Burren in Connemara and detours down the side roads to view the desolate but compelling landscape.

Day 7 we were on the road back to Dublin. More rain accompanied us and the drive was easy and uneventful at about 4 hours. We returned the car and got a lift to the great Southern Hotel at the Dublin Airport. really nice modern hotel ? as good as good as a Westin or a nice Grand Hyatt ? very reasonable by Dublin standards at $130 Euro per night (direct book on hotel website). Took Citylink bus into Dublin, wandered Temple Bar and another area to shop and had an early bird dinner. Noticed lower prices and more dining options than we had seen elsewhere.

Day 8 we got the hotel shuttle to airport and went through an inordinate number of check-in hassles that were due to misinformation from Orbitz and flight changes from Continental (who also sent our luggage to Houston instead of Newark on the way home!). We arrived home ahead of schedule at 1 PM EST in Newark.

Final Observations

Wonderful and friendly country, easy to negotiate and truly worth visiting. A week simply isn?t enough time and Dublin is a good entry point only if you?re heading north or to the southeast or if doing a full circle of the coast.

The primary shortcomings of the trip were due to different traveling styles and conflict of preferences between my GF and I ? sometimes trips like this are a good way to find how compatible you really are with another person ? let?s leave it at that.

My plans were to wander around the bye roads, visit small out of the way villages, tramp around in old ruins as we found them, do some hiking, drive the twisting and touring scenic roads of the Dingle Peninsula, see the Cliffs of Mooher at sunset?? none of this came to pass. I was able to make the best of the circumstances and am sure to return. Next trip will be for two weeks and traveling solo or with a more compatible partner.

Many thanks to all in this forum who provided so much valuable info in helping me plan this trip ? it made life much easier and took the surprise factor out of many things. Our itinerary was doable but still had a bit too much driving ? better to skip a destination or two and stay in one place for longer but there?s always next time for that.

Oops.... did this in MS Word and forgot to conver to a .txt file before pasting in. Please note that most of the "?" symbols are actually supposed to appear as apostrophes.

Also please note that the place we stayed in Dingle was Clonmara House (MS spellchecker changed it to Columnar).

Oh, Owen, I think I'm the one who recommended Clonmara to you and I'm so sorry it wasn't great. Our experience with the owners has been much more pleasant than yours was...or I wouldn't have recommended it. In fact, I'll be back there next month.

Owen,

Fabulous report! Glad you came back and let us know how your trip went. I got a few tips from you as well as a few smiles from your entries. Ireland grows on you and you can never go just once!

Cheers,
wendy

Hi Ownen,
We have to make a connection to Dublin from British Air to Aer Lingus at Heathrow in a couple of weeks. I'm almost afraid to ask what happened, but do you have any suggestions for making it easier?

Hi Owen...Thanks for sharing your trip. We just returned from a 3 week stay in Ireland, combined with a few days in London. We also had that "mixed" weather, but luck was with us in that it seemed to clear for our specific daily jaunts--Beltany Stone Circle in Donegal, Inishmore Island, Cliffs of Moher, Fanad Peninsula in Donegal, West Belfast ( The Troubles Areas), and many more megalithic sites, but we didn't go to Ireland for the weather, did we?
Agree that some of the BandB's/Guesthouses hostesses were somewhat unfriendly several times referring to us as "Room 4", or the "The Cowslip Room"!, but on the whole most were very friendly and helpful. All in all, we had a most wonderful time (our 6th), and are exhausted from our trip. We wouldn't have it any other way! Helen

Hi Owen,

Just have to put my oar in the water about mates and traveling styles.

I love to travel, will go anyplace/anytime, prefer to travel on the cheap plan.

My wonderful (and I really mean it)husband (of 39 years) does not enjoy travel, wants everything just like at home, wants room service, first-class everything. It is an absolute disaster everytime we travel together, which isn't very often.

What works for us is separate vacations . . . so, don't give up on the relationship . . . just give up on the vacations together!

Sandy

Wren2 -- I've done the British Airways to Aer Lingus transfer at Heathrow. Conservatively, it is about 45 minutes of walking, not counting any security checks or things like bathrooms, VAT form stamping or shopping you may need to do. The Aer Lingus gates are about as far from anything else at the airport as you can get. Allow for lots of time, don't bring anything you don't want to carry for a loooooong walk.

MaryZ - not a problem - my GF was perturbed by the host's indifferent attitude especially in light of the warm welcome and kind treatment we'd received at previous B&B's, but it didn't bother me. I was perfectly happy to just come and go anonymously and the facilities were terrific.

SandyB - thanks for the encouragement - my GF sounds much like your husband and I've accepted the fact this if the relationship is going to work we must pursue separate vacations. Perhaps reserve one week each year somewhere of her choice in the style she likes to travel in (which appears to be cruise ships - yuck!).

Wren 2 - simply allow extra time based on the fact that at least for us, we had to check in again for boarding passes and seat assignments in London in both directions. Also, becuase orbitz insisted that we could just use the original paper tix, when we arrived in Dublin to take the return flight, we could not get boarding passes until we went to two separate service desks (on for Continental and one for Aer Lingus) to get the paper tix revalidated and get a printout showing the confirmed change. Due to this glitch we were unable to get our VAT refund forms stamped in Dublin. Aer Lingus assured us we could get it done in London and then the delays at Continental's Gatwick check-in prevented us from getting them stamped there. Now we're out the $40 or so from refunds we won't receive in addition to the hassles.

Enjoyed this trip report..makes the notion of visiting the area a much easier decision to make. I hate to see folks who aren't even, if ever, legally committed to one another ALREADY having to make "allowances" since travel can be such a rewarding experience...but understand given your obviously disdainful feelings about her travel prferences, Owen..was it Ireland that was the not such a good thing for her or the way it was approached?

Bootman4U - we're only seven months into the relationship but now living in different cities due to a recent relocation she was required to make. I was aware of man of her preferences and/or idiosyncrasies prior to the trip and intentionally structure an itinerary to account for that. Despite this planning, I still found it necessary to radically alter the plans once we were into the trip. It wasn't so much Ireland that she didn't care for but rather, that she was more or less indifferent to the scenery, wanted to eat breakfast late and stay in the room until noon before venturing out, had no interest in the cultural or historical significance of things we saew (or had an opportunity to encounter but didn't). The rough idea of what were were going to do was mutually discussed and agreed upon before the trip but it just didn't work out that way. Better to work these things out one way or another before marriage or any other serious long term comittment. I should mention that she thought we had a great trip and was delighted afterwards. I'm the one who was disappointed with the necessity to radically scale back and alter our plans.

Owen

You can still get your Vat forms notarized and sent in if you still have them.

Great Report thaxs for posting

Owen, how was touring, seeing the countryside, etc. when it was raining. What else did you do when it was raining? It seems like you had to "audible" a bunch of times based on the weather and your trip companion. What did you do?

mkm - I sort of improvised on the alternate activities. We did far mjore wlaking around looking in shops than I would normally do on a vacation, stopped a few times for an hour in a pub for a Sidona (I don't drink alcohol but there's a wonderful apple based soft drink that the pubs all stock - very rtefreshign and not too sweet). We went horseback riding on the beach in Galway - very disappointing in that the "beach" is just a mucky, seaweed strewn area exposed during low tide. A one hour ride was $30 Euros each. There's a 75 minute ride available in Dingle that is $25 Euros each and runs on what I suspect is "real" beach, not to mention that the scenery is better there. In light of our abbreviated options, I "went with the program" - we ate breakfast late, usually returned to the room for a hour breakfast and often took a nap/relaxed for an hour or so before going out to find dinner. Fortunately, on the days when the rain was at its worst, we were in transit. A lightweight breathable rain jacket with a hood is a great option - the wind gets so intense that umbrellas are often useless. If it was up to me, we'd still have been out walking around in the rain unless it was pouring but I needed to adapt our activities to keep the peace.

Owen,
I'm much too old for you, but when it's time for your next trip to Ireland...let's go together. We would travel well!
I am curious about how you were received in Ireland as an interracial couple. Any thoughts on that?

Owen, thanks for the trip report. It was fun to read.

I'm like you as far as travel style, so I encourage you to try solo travel...it's very liberating! You can pick up a travel partner along the way. The best part is if you start to have too many differences, you don't feel so bad about ditching him/her.