Our Trip Was Too Short: Paris & Amsterdam
Oct 1st, 2006, 03:21 PM
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Our Trip Was Too Short: Paris & Amsterdam
Here is a trip report chock full of much too much detail!
My husband (27) and I (26) have recently returned from a quick trip to Paris and Amsterdam from September 13 to September 22. As we are preparing for a move to New Zealand in January as a part of my husband's post-doctorate research, we told ourselves we would not be taking another trip this year after celebrating our 2 year anniversary in Mexico this May. However, watching the Da Vinci Code inspired him to change his mind and cashing in frequent flier miles for one ticket helped the pocketbook.
My husband and I have traveled to Paris together once before in December 2001. I traveled to Paris solo in May 2003. We had only been to Schipol Airport in Amsterdam to make connecting flights to other European countries so we felt it was time to actually see the city.
Using frequent flier miles on Continental Airlines was easy. Because I was booking open jaw tickets, I called their call center to book the flights we wanted. I booked one FF ticket and the other paid ticket in June for September flights so we got lucky getting what we wanted so late in the game. However, leaving from Arkansas, one coach ticket at nearly $1000 was still pretty pricy.
Hotels were booked online in advance. I found a great rate of 101 Euro including breakfast at the Timhotel Palais Royal Louvre (hrs.com). Another great deal was found for the Estherea Hotel in Amsterdam at 123 Euro including breakfast (utell.com). I know many on this forum prefer the 5th arr. in Paris, however, after my solo trip to the city, I really enjoyed staying in the 1st. Technically, the Timhotel Palais is in the 2nd arr. but it's so close as to not make much difference.
I prefer the 1st arr. in Paris as it is walking distance to the Louvre, Pompidou, and Notre Dame. There are several resturants and grocery stores nearby as well as metro stops.
Back to the trip details, we only carried on one 21 inch rolling suitcase and a backpack despite the liquids restriction at the time. My concealer was in a solid stick as was the chapstick. I can live without mascara for a week but still brought my eyelash curler.
My fear of flying has increased in the past few years albeit not enough to deter me from flying. Despite this fear (which is really a fear of crashing more than anything else), I choose not to medicate. Thus, I spent the first 5 minutes after take-off on each flight subtly crying while my husband calmly read the airline magazine.
The flight from Arkansas to Houston was smooth but Houston to Paris found me in a white-knuckle grip over the Atlantic. Has anyone else noticed that tubulence picks up over Newfoundland? For a while, we were juking and jiving all over the place! It's not much of a confidence builder when the flight attendants look like football players passing out meals with lightening fast speed.
In the end, a safe landing was made at CDG around 11:30. I was not able to catch much rest on the plane so I was feeling a little wonky. It took f-o-r-e-v-e-r to exit CDG. The previous two trips were not like this.
Eventually, we escaped the crowd and made our way through the terminal to catch the RER B. Note: there are signs in place at the ticket booth directing you to those windows that sell tickets to the Paris city center. There is a Relay store near the ticket booth at which to purchase drinks and snacks if you need some refreshments after landing. Having learned from our first trip to Paris (in which we were dehydrated every day) I bought the biggest bottle of water I could find.
We just made the train as it left for Paris. A few stops later, we exited at Chatelet-Les Halles. Having stayed in this area of Paris last time, I was familiar with the station and the way we needed to exit. Outside the station, we turned right and walked past Saint Eustache Church, the rolly wheels clacking on the cobblestones.
Having stayed at the Hotel Emeraude Des Victoires during my solo trip, I could lead us through the same neighborhood to reach the Timhotel Palais with only having to crack open the map once. Upon reaching the hotel, my husband said I'd taken the fun out of finding the hotel since I'd known where we were going. I corrected him and said I'd removed the stress reminding him to think back to when we were in Madrid last December on a cold, dark night coming up out of the Atocha subway station without any clue as to where we were going. He agreed...this was better.
Checking into the hotel was easy. I "parle vous anglais[ed]" the desk staff and received an "Of course" answer. They required no credit card imprint nor did they ask for our passports. The desk clerk did try to tell us that breakfast was not included in our rate, however, a copy of my room confirmation proved otherwise (he was reading the wrong line on his print off). We were off to room 205.
The elevator was managable for 2 adults with our suitcase, however, the room was teeny tiny. Not the smallest room we've stayed at in Europe, that title goes to the Cherry Court Hotel in London; however, this room was the second smallest. Too tired to care about the small room, we decided to take a nap rather than take the 2:30 Paris Walks walking tour of the Marais district I'd considered before arrival.
Up around 4 pm, we were still groggy but knew we should get a move on. Out onto the Parisian streets, we made our way toward Notre Dame. We didn't climb the towers that day but took a look inside and people watched outside.
Walking back toward the hotel, we stopped into an Ed's grocery store. Bread, wine, cheese, chocolate, and chips later, we found ourselves sitting in front of the Pompidou for a picnic reminiscing about the misery that was the last time we were here together (think dark, cold, rainy, hungry, thirsty, young with little money or travel savvy).
My husband (27) and I (26) have recently returned from a quick trip to Paris and Amsterdam from September 13 to September 22. As we are preparing for a move to New Zealand in January as a part of my husband's post-doctorate research, we told ourselves we would not be taking another trip this year after celebrating our 2 year anniversary in Mexico this May. However, watching the Da Vinci Code inspired him to change his mind and cashing in frequent flier miles for one ticket helped the pocketbook.
My husband and I have traveled to Paris together once before in December 2001. I traveled to Paris solo in May 2003. We had only been to Schipol Airport in Amsterdam to make connecting flights to other European countries so we felt it was time to actually see the city.
Using frequent flier miles on Continental Airlines was easy. Because I was booking open jaw tickets, I called their call center to book the flights we wanted. I booked one FF ticket and the other paid ticket in June for September flights so we got lucky getting what we wanted so late in the game. However, leaving from Arkansas, one coach ticket at nearly $1000 was still pretty pricy.
Hotels were booked online in advance. I found a great rate of 101 Euro including breakfast at the Timhotel Palais Royal Louvre (hrs.com). Another great deal was found for the Estherea Hotel in Amsterdam at 123 Euro including breakfast (utell.com). I know many on this forum prefer the 5th arr. in Paris, however, after my solo trip to the city, I really enjoyed staying in the 1st. Technically, the Timhotel Palais is in the 2nd arr. but it's so close as to not make much difference.
I prefer the 1st arr. in Paris as it is walking distance to the Louvre, Pompidou, and Notre Dame. There are several resturants and grocery stores nearby as well as metro stops.
Back to the trip details, we only carried on one 21 inch rolling suitcase and a backpack despite the liquids restriction at the time. My concealer was in a solid stick as was the chapstick. I can live without mascara for a week but still brought my eyelash curler.
My fear of flying has increased in the past few years albeit not enough to deter me from flying. Despite this fear (which is really a fear of crashing more than anything else), I choose not to medicate. Thus, I spent the first 5 minutes after take-off on each flight subtly crying while my husband calmly read the airline magazine.
The flight from Arkansas to Houston was smooth but Houston to Paris found me in a white-knuckle grip over the Atlantic. Has anyone else noticed that tubulence picks up over Newfoundland? For a while, we were juking and jiving all over the place! It's not much of a confidence builder when the flight attendants look like football players passing out meals with lightening fast speed.
In the end, a safe landing was made at CDG around 11:30. I was not able to catch much rest on the plane so I was feeling a little wonky. It took f-o-r-e-v-e-r to exit CDG. The previous two trips were not like this.
Eventually, we escaped the crowd and made our way through the terminal to catch the RER B. Note: there are signs in place at the ticket booth directing you to those windows that sell tickets to the Paris city center. There is a Relay store near the ticket booth at which to purchase drinks and snacks if you need some refreshments after landing. Having learned from our first trip to Paris (in which we were dehydrated every day) I bought the biggest bottle of water I could find.
We just made the train as it left for Paris. A few stops later, we exited at Chatelet-Les Halles. Having stayed in this area of Paris last time, I was familiar with the station and the way we needed to exit. Outside the station, we turned right and walked past Saint Eustache Church, the rolly wheels clacking on the cobblestones.
Having stayed at the Hotel Emeraude Des Victoires during my solo trip, I could lead us through the same neighborhood to reach the Timhotel Palais with only having to crack open the map once. Upon reaching the hotel, my husband said I'd taken the fun out of finding the hotel since I'd known where we were going. I corrected him and said I'd removed the stress reminding him to think back to when we were in Madrid last December on a cold, dark night coming up out of the Atocha subway station without any clue as to where we were going. He agreed...this was better.
Checking into the hotel was easy. I "parle vous anglais[ed]" the desk staff and received an "Of course" answer. They required no credit card imprint nor did they ask for our passports. The desk clerk did try to tell us that breakfast was not included in our rate, however, a copy of my room confirmation proved otherwise (he was reading the wrong line on his print off). We were off to room 205.
The elevator was managable for 2 adults with our suitcase, however, the room was teeny tiny. Not the smallest room we've stayed at in Europe, that title goes to the Cherry Court Hotel in London; however, this room was the second smallest. Too tired to care about the small room, we decided to take a nap rather than take the 2:30 Paris Walks walking tour of the Marais district I'd considered before arrival.
Up around 4 pm, we were still groggy but knew we should get a move on. Out onto the Parisian streets, we made our way toward Notre Dame. We didn't climb the towers that day but took a look inside and people watched outside.
Walking back toward the hotel, we stopped into an Ed's grocery store. Bread, wine, cheese, chocolate, and chips later, we found ourselves sitting in front of the Pompidou for a picnic reminiscing about the misery that was the last time we were here together (think dark, cold, rainy, hungry, thirsty, young with little money or travel savvy).
Oct 2nd, 2006, 03:10 PM
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After our picnic, we purchased a 4 day museum pass inside the Pompidou. However, because we were still tired, we did not use it that night. Back to the hotel to grab some much needed rest. The Timhotel Palais Royal Louvre does have thin walls. Ear plugs are recommended if you decide to stay here.
We were up the next morning in time to grab the included breakfast (served 7-10 am). It is a self-service buffet with coffee, juice, tea, milk, breads, ham, cheese, fruit cocktail, pineapple slices, yogurt, cereal, hard boiled eggs. A good start to the day if it is included in your rate, however, it may not be worth the price at 10 euro/person. The breakfast room staff work hard to keep the tables cleared and the food and drink stocked.
For our first full day, a Friday, we made our way back to Notre Dame to climb the towers. The towers open at 10 and as we arrived right at the opening, we did not have too long of a wait. Take the opportunity to break up your climb by stopping into the gift shop on your way up.
A cloudy day made viewing the Eiffel Tower and Sacre Cour difficult. Their hazy forms were barely apparent in the distance. We were soon joined by a bunch of Parisian school children who were drawing their interpretation of the gargoyles as part of their assignment. Cute!
After making our way back down the opposite tower, we decided to step into the Archeological Crypt in front of the cathedral. Pay attention to where you're going because we first ended up in the parking deck that is below ground rather than the crypt-funny!
It didn't take us very long to view the site, we didn't think the ruins were quite as extensive as the City Museum of Barcelona which is also underground. Back outside to the fresh air, we made our way to the FNAC store located in the Forum des Halles.
I had purchased tickets to see Les Fêtes de Nuit at Versailles. Because I purchased the tickets online close the the date of the show, I had to pick up the tickets in person from any Parisian FNAC store-I printed off a list from their website. I was nervous about how this would work out, but there was no problem.
The show tickets were a surprise for my husband because the last time we were in Paris the one thing he wanted to see was the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles. We made it to Versailles just as they were closing so he did not get to see the Hall of Mirrors. So, this time, I wanted him to not only get to see the Hall of Mirrors (under renovation, I know) but also to see all the greatness of Versailles including Les Grandes Eaux Musicales (the fountain show in the gardens) and Les Fêtes de Nuit (a costumed production at the Fountain of Neptune).
Show tickets can be picked up on the lowest level of the FNAC store at Forum des Halles. The girl who printed our tickets was so nice and apologized for not speaking better English to which we apologized for not speaking hardly any French. My husband still didn't know what the tickets were for, just a "surprise," but he did see how much they cost-116 euro total-so he started formulating high expectations of whatever this surprise was going to be!
We were up the next morning in time to grab the included breakfast (served 7-10 am). It is a self-service buffet with coffee, juice, tea, milk, breads, ham, cheese, fruit cocktail, pineapple slices, yogurt, cereal, hard boiled eggs. A good start to the day if it is included in your rate, however, it may not be worth the price at 10 euro/person. The breakfast room staff work hard to keep the tables cleared and the food and drink stocked.
For our first full day, a Friday, we made our way back to Notre Dame to climb the towers. The towers open at 10 and as we arrived right at the opening, we did not have too long of a wait. Take the opportunity to break up your climb by stopping into the gift shop on your way up.
A cloudy day made viewing the Eiffel Tower and Sacre Cour difficult. Their hazy forms were barely apparent in the distance. We were soon joined by a bunch of Parisian school children who were drawing their interpretation of the gargoyles as part of their assignment. Cute!
After making our way back down the opposite tower, we decided to step into the Archeological Crypt in front of the cathedral. Pay attention to where you're going because we first ended up in the parking deck that is below ground rather than the crypt-funny!
It didn't take us very long to view the site, we didn't think the ruins were quite as extensive as the City Museum of Barcelona which is also underground. Back outside to the fresh air, we made our way to the FNAC store located in the Forum des Halles.
I had purchased tickets to see Les Fêtes de Nuit at Versailles. Because I purchased the tickets online close the the date of the show, I had to pick up the tickets in person from any Parisian FNAC store-I printed off a list from their website. I was nervous about how this would work out, but there was no problem.
The show tickets were a surprise for my husband because the last time we were in Paris the one thing he wanted to see was the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles. We made it to Versailles just as they were closing so he did not get to see the Hall of Mirrors. So, this time, I wanted him to not only get to see the Hall of Mirrors (under renovation, I know) but also to see all the greatness of Versailles including Les Grandes Eaux Musicales (the fountain show in the gardens) and Les Fêtes de Nuit (a costumed production at the Fountain of Neptune).
Show tickets can be picked up on the lowest level of the FNAC store at Forum des Halles. The girl who printed our tickets was so nice and apologized for not speaking better English to which we apologized for not speaking hardly any French. My husband still didn't know what the tickets were for, just a "surprise," but he did see how much they cost-116 euro total-so he started formulating high expectations of whatever this surprise was going to be!
Oct 2nd, 2006, 03:57 PM
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Tickets in hand, it was time for lunch. As we were already at the mall, we grabbed some Quick Burger. We upped the size of our meals, and we received what would be considered a medium in the US. Sitting outside, we ate and people watched until it was time to head for the metro to make the 2:30 start time of the Paris Walks walking tour of Montmartre. Note: there are some really modern and high-tech looking bathrooms for .40 on the bottom level of the Forum des Halles.
Oct 2nd, 2006, 04:05 PM
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Sorry, I hit post too soon.
After several connections on the metro, we made the walking tour in Montmartre on time. I had taken this walk last time I was here so I was interested to see what I remembered and if I learned anything new. Bridget, the tour guide, was knowledgable, however, she had difficulty projecting her voice.
We saw some great sites on the walk, my favorite being the "I love you" wall and the ripe grapes in the vineyard that were just about to be harvested for the upcoming October wine festival. A light drizzle at the beginning of the walk turned into heavier raindrops at the end, however, our tour group stuck together for the duration of the walk. As I was coming off of being sick, I would periodically have coughing bouts and have to leave the group to hack my lungs out in private!
I came away from this walking tour with an increased love for Montmartre. I could almost see us staying in this part of Paris during our next visit. Although it is a bit far from the majority of the Parisian tourist sites, Montmartre has such a great casual vibe to it.
When the tour concluded in front of Sacre Cour, I found the public toliets that are located to the right and down a set of steep stairs from the church. Eye opening moment: the men using the urinals in this restroom are somewhat open to viewing as a female standing in line waiting for a stall. There is some privacy afforded to the men by a low wall, however, you will not find a completely separated restroom for men and women here! The toilets are free but it's nice to tip the lady who works there.
I love Sacre Cour. The interior mosaic of Christ with a golden heart is fantastic. In sharp contrast to our previous Parisian trip where we nearly froze to death and would stand over the floor grates in churches like Sacre Cour to warm up, this time we were hot. While the temperature was in the mid-60s, lower 70s, it was muggy when it wasn't raining. We needed to find a grate blowing air conditioning this time!
No matter how much we like something when we travel, we have a quote, "We can't stay forever." We had to move on from Sacre Cour so we made our way down the hill on foot bypassing all these guys trying to sell what appear to be frienship bracelets. Say "no" or ignore them completely if you don't want to be bothered.
We rested at the "I love you" wall before catching the metro back to the hotel for a picnic dinner in the room. As it was Friday night, the late-night opening at the Louvre, we stopped in for a quick visit. You wouldn't be able to tell the Louvre was open late because the lights around the main pyramid entrance were very dim.
I love an empty museum! We were able to see the Winged Victory, Venus de Milo, and Mona Lisa without the usual throng of people around. I also got to see my personal favorite by Giuseppe Arcimboldi, the Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter portraits. Exiting the Louvre, it was time to head back to the hotel to rest our feet and get some sleep for our BIG day at Versailles tomorrow.
After several connections on the metro, we made the walking tour in Montmartre on time. I had taken this walk last time I was here so I was interested to see what I remembered and if I learned anything new. Bridget, the tour guide, was knowledgable, however, she had difficulty projecting her voice.
We saw some great sites on the walk, my favorite being the "I love you" wall and the ripe grapes in the vineyard that were just about to be harvested for the upcoming October wine festival. A light drizzle at the beginning of the walk turned into heavier raindrops at the end, however, our tour group stuck together for the duration of the walk. As I was coming off of being sick, I would periodically have coughing bouts and have to leave the group to hack my lungs out in private!
I came away from this walking tour with an increased love for Montmartre. I could almost see us staying in this part of Paris during our next visit. Although it is a bit far from the majority of the Parisian tourist sites, Montmartre has such a great casual vibe to it.
When the tour concluded in front of Sacre Cour, I found the public toliets that are located to the right and down a set of steep stairs from the church. Eye opening moment: the men using the urinals in this restroom are somewhat open to viewing as a female standing in line waiting for a stall. There is some privacy afforded to the men by a low wall, however, you will not find a completely separated restroom for men and women here! The toilets are free but it's nice to tip the lady who works there.
I love Sacre Cour. The interior mosaic of Christ with a golden heart is fantastic. In sharp contrast to our previous Parisian trip where we nearly froze to death and would stand over the floor grates in churches like Sacre Cour to warm up, this time we were hot. While the temperature was in the mid-60s, lower 70s, it was muggy when it wasn't raining. We needed to find a grate blowing air conditioning this time!
No matter how much we like something when we travel, we have a quote, "We can't stay forever." We had to move on from Sacre Cour so we made our way down the hill on foot bypassing all these guys trying to sell what appear to be frienship bracelets. Say "no" or ignore them completely if you don't want to be bothered.
We rested at the "I love you" wall before catching the metro back to the hotel for a picnic dinner in the room. As it was Friday night, the late-night opening at the Louvre, we stopped in for a quick visit. You wouldn't be able to tell the Louvre was open late because the lights around the main pyramid entrance were very dim.
I love an empty museum! We were able to see the Winged Victory, Venus de Milo, and Mona Lisa without the usual throng of people around. I also got to see my personal favorite by Giuseppe Arcimboldi, the Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter portraits. Exiting the Louvre, it was time to head back to the hotel to rest our feet and get some sleep for our BIG day at Versailles tomorrow.
Oct 2nd, 2006, 05:57 PM
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Hi Tom, I just read this great report and was thinking of you, I was going to email to you, so glad that you saw it. Good timing, yes?
Thanks for sharing your trip with us stragic..and best wishes on the move you two will be making to beautiful New Zealand. Lucky you!!
Thanks for sharing your trip with us stragic..and best wishes on the move you two will be making to beautiful New Zealand. Lucky you!!
Oct 3rd, 2006, 06:52 AM
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Funny about the toilets to the right of Sacre Coeur being free. When we were there a bit over 2 years ago, you had to pay. Our girls went in. While they were still in the stalls, I thought it would be a good idea to re-fill a water bottle. As one daughter opened the stall door, I attempted to hand her a water bottle to fill from the sink (which was in the stall); the attendant got very angry and scolded us, saying that if DD went back in (she had never actually left) we would have to pay again! We chalked it up as yet another funny travel story to tell!
Since were in Paris, I've heard that the public toilets on the street (the oval things) are now free, so I guess it makes sense that this one is now free, too.
Since were in Paris, I've heard that the public toilets on the street (the oval things) are now free, so I guess it makes sense that this one is now free, too.
Oct 3rd, 2006, 08:51 AM
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Missypie, I too noticed the change from pay to free toilets in the 3 years that had passed since my last visit. This change was evident at the public toilets in front of Notre Dame as well as those at Versailles (not just the oval buildings you mentioned). Unfortunately, the change in price hasn't done anything to shorten the lines women must wait in to access the restrooms!
Oct 3rd, 2006, 03:45 PM
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Jolie-We were seated at the very back of the plane so that added some time...but I'd estimate it took us a solid hour (if not a bit more) to get off the plane and through immigration and the rest of the airport and we didn't have checked luggage to pick up.
I'm not specifically sure how long it took us from landing to catching the RER because I never wear a watch and my husband forgot his at home. Never knowing the exact time and always having to find a clock or a person with a watch to find the time added an interesting dynamic to this trip!
I forgot to mention that I had such a proud moment leaving the Louvre Friday night when a group of middle age, American tourists asked if I could tell them where the nearest metro was and I could! I loving having a sense of familiarity with this city!
We barely made the 10:00 cutoff for breakfast Saturday morning. I always feel guilty eating after the breakfast room has officially closed, so we ate fast. We were able to leave the hotel around 10:45, walking past a "market" that had been set up on the Rue de la Banque.
I say "market" because it was really what I would term a yard sale. Loads of people selling old things on the sidewalks that lined the road. Shoes, clothes, books, trinkets-it was all there. And then, it was like the yard sale exploded as we reached the Bourse metro station at the end of the Rue de la Banque. Various odds and ends covered the plaza in front of the metro but we managed to find our way.
We traveled down the line, having purchased a carnet of metro tickets (10 rides on the subway) the day before. We transfered at Opera to go to Invalides for the RER C to Versailles. We were able to purchase tickets to the RER C at the Invalides station. Make sure you're taking the train to Versailles Rive Gauche. It's marked "Vick" at the front and end of the train. We left Paris (with sunlight peeking through the clouds) around 11:20 and reached the chateau(increasing cloudiness) around noon.
Walking up to the chateau, past all the vendors selling Eiffel Tower replicas and postcards, I went to the B2 entrance (for those who already have tickets-like the Paris museum pass). My husband got separated from me and was standing at the back of a different, much longer line, so I had to flag him over. We talked about how great it is to be able to skip the long lines by having the museum pass. Going through security was quick and painless and soon we were inside the palace.
The ground floor entry into the Chapel was open (it was closed on my 2003 visit). We looked around but my husband was getting hot, so I offered to carry the backpack-he said he felt guilty but a lot cooler.
I'm not specifically sure how long it took us from landing to catching the RER because I never wear a watch and my husband forgot his at home. Never knowing the exact time and always having to find a clock or a person with a watch to find the time added an interesting dynamic to this trip!
I forgot to mention that I had such a proud moment leaving the Louvre Friday night when a group of middle age, American tourists asked if I could tell them where the nearest metro was and I could! I loving having a sense of familiarity with this city!
We barely made the 10:00 cutoff for breakfast Saturday morning. I always feel guilty eating after the breakfast room has officially closed, so we ate fast. We were able to leave the hotel around 10:45, walking past a "market" that had been set up on the Rue de la Banque.
I say "market" because it was really what I would term a yard sale. Loads of people selling old things on the sidewalks that lined the road. Shoes, clothes, books, trinkets-it was all there. And then, it was like the yard sale exploded as we reached the Bourse metro station at the end of the Rue de la Banque. Various odds and ends covered the plaza in front of the metro but we managed to find our way.
We traveled down the line, having purchased a carnet of metro tickets (10 rides on the subway) the day before. We transfered at Opera to go to Invalides for the RER C to Versailles. We were able to purchase tickets to the RER C at the Invalides station. Make sure you're taking the train to Versailles Rive Gauche. It's marked "Vick" at the front and end of the train. We left Paris (with sunlight peeking through the clouds) around 11:20 and reached the chateau(increasing cloudiness) around noon.
Walking up to the chateau, past all the vendors selling Eiffel Tower replicas and postcards, I went to the B2 entrance (for those who already have tickets-like the Paris museum pass). My husband got separated from me and was standing at the back of a different, much longer line, so I had to flag him over. We talked about how great it is to be able to skip the long lines by having the museum pass. Going through security was quick and painless and soon we were inside the palace.
The ground floor entry into the Chapel was open (it was closed on my 2003 visit). We looked around but my husband was getting hot, so I offered to carry the backpack-he said he felt guilty but a lot cooler.
Oct 3rd, 2006, 03:45 PM
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Good report! Lika Faina, I am interested in the Amsterdam report. will be going there next year. BTW, last week, my DH and I had a meal in a Quick, he did not care for the burger at all, I had the ok chicken. We just wanted to try French fast food. Should have done a picnic! 
Oct 3rd, 2006, 04:20 PM
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Thanks to everyone for their kind responses! Judyrem-we did not find the Quick Burger that tasty either. My husband loathed his bacon burger (but did eat it all) and my cheeseburger was just okay. We chose to eat at the Quick Burger for the French fast food concept as well, however, we joked that now we know why the lines at McDonald's were so long!
Back to Versailles: Oh-My-Gosh, I loved the Opera room. It's decorated in baby blue and so pretty. This part of Versailles was also closed when I visited last time so my husband and I saw it for the first time together. Watching a performance there would definitely be quite an experience. Climbing the stairs, we could look into the Chapel from the second story and then proceed through a series of rooms.
Then, the "tah-dah" moment. My husband's long awaited viewing of the Hall of Mirrors. Or, more accurately described, his long awaited viewing of 1/3 of the Hall of Mirrors. I think we will need to visit again once the renovations are completed for the full effect. However, we do have a travel tradition of slow dancing with each other at historical landmarks (you may see us sometime) so we danced in the Hall of Mirrors before finishing up the rest of the tour.
The heat was trapped in the palace, and we felt better outside in the breeze. We shared a snack before contemplating how best to get to the Grand and Petit Trianons. I suggested walking down to the Fountain of Neptune as that was the way I traveled there last time.
So, we walked down the hill toward the fountain but were stopped by an older man who worked for Versailles. He didn't speak English and we didn't speak French, however, the point was communicated that the area surrounding the Fountain of Neptune wasn't open until 8:00 or so (he pointed at his watch). This made sense, as they would be setting up for Les Fêtes de Nuit.
At this point, I told my husband we would be watching a show at that fountain later that night...in part to distract him from having to walk back UPHILL to the chateau. I didn't tell him much about the show, however, as I was still trying to keep it as much of a surprise as possible.
Back to Versailles: Oh-My-Gosh, I loved the Opera room. It's decorated in baby blue and so pretty. This part of Versailles was also closed when I visited last time so my husband and I saw it for the first time together. Watching a performance there would definitely be quite an experience. Climbing the stairs, we could look into the Chapel from the second story and then proceed through a series of rooms.
Then, the "tah-dah" moment. My husband's long awaited viewing of the Hall of Mirrors. Or, more accurately described, his long awaited viewing of 1/3 of the Hall of Mirrors. I think we will need to visit again once the renovations are completed for the full effect. However, we do have a travel tradition of slow dancing with each other at historical landmarks (you may see us sometime) so we danced in the Hall of Mirrors before finishing up the rest of the tour.
The heat was trapped in the palace, and we felt better outside in the breeze. We shared a snack before contemplating how best to get to the Grand and Petit Trianons. I suggested walking down to the Fountain of Neptune as that was the way I traveled there last time.
So, we walked down the hill toward the fountain but were stopped by an older man who worked for Versailles. He didn't speak English and we didn't speak French, however, the point was communicated that the area surrounding the Fountain of Neptune wasn't open until 8:00 or so (he pointed at his watch). This made sense, as they would be setting up for Les Fêtes de Nuit.
At this point, I told my husband we would be watching a show at that fountain later that night...in part to distract him from having to walk back UPHILL to the chateau. I didn't tell him much about the show, however, as I was still trying to keep it as much of a surprise as possible.
Oct 3rd, 2006, 04:43 PM
#17
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So, we made it back up the hill and still had to find our way to the smaller palaces at Versailles (included on the museum pass). We purchased tickets for Les Grandes Eaux Musicales so we could walk through the gardens on our way to the Grand and Petit Trianons. After purchasing our tickets into the gardens, we were faced with a decision: should we rent a golf cart or take the petit train around the vast property.
Golf cart rentals were 28 Euro/hour. This is not a bad deal if you have 4 people, however, it was just the two of us and we weren't looking to buddy up with strangers...if anyone would even do that. We got in line for the petit train, but after less than 5 minutes of standing in line, I realized I didn't really want to take the train. Note: The petit "train" is not a real train, it's an open air shuttle. If you decide to take the train, realize you will probably have a bit of a line once you reach the other palaces because you are arriving with a group.
We walked down the the Royal Avenue towards the Grand Canal. The gardens, with hidden fountains, flanked us on both sides. At the bottom of the hill, inspiration struck. BICYCLES! To directly quote my travel journal, "Saw bikes for 6 Euro each/hour, so we gave my driver's license [as collateral] and hopped on. Mine squeaked and clacked pretty loud. Like speed demons, we raced past walkers-THIS IS HOW TO TRAVEL!"
Obviously, I enjoy bike riding We quickly made it to the Grand Trianon and parked our bikes at a bike rack outside (minus any bike locks which did cause a bit of nervousness on our part but no worries in the end). We decided to forego the main entry (and security/bag check) and just visited the second half of the palace which you can enter on the right. We were quickly in and out of the palace and on our way to the Petit Trianon.
The line was long at the Petit Trianon so we decided to skip it and ride down to where we thought the Queen's Hamlet was located. But, after traveling to the border between the Chateau of Versailles and town, we realized we were on the wrong side on an embankment if we wanted to reach the Queen's Hamlet (we could see it above the embankment, however). A sign confirmed that the main entrance to the Queen's Hamlet was back at the Petit Trianon. So, back we went, passing white blobs that were grazing sheep-the yellow chateau in the distance.
We saw the Temple of Love on our way back, however, we never could figure out how to get over the embankment and into the Hamlet. It was nearing time for the fountain show to begin, so we headed back. Leaving down the road from the Grand Trianon, my husband ahead of me, I turned around on my bicycle because I heard a car coming.
I didn't realize it at the time (learning in Amsterdam on a Mike's Bike Tour what must have happened), however, I clampped down on my front break which caused me to fall hard on the ground. Several extremely loud F-bombs succeeded to flow from my mouth as I tried to get out of the road. Luckily, I only fell on my right side with my wrist, elbow, and leg scraped and bruised. I didn't tear my favorite jeans and my white tank top only had a few dust marks from the fall. I had no broken bones or missing teeth, so I couldn't ask for more, really. I was just glad I didn't "crack my coconut" (bust my head open) as my husband so eloquently put it!
I was proud of the bloody scrape on my elbow, so I had my husband take my picture-wound and all. I only had a few tears after moving the bike out of the road, not from any pain but from being shaken up over the fall. My husband told me I was tough and I took it as a great compliment.
Golf cart rentals were 28 Euro/hour. This is not a bad deal if you have 4 people, however, it was just the two of us and we weren't looking to buddy up with strangers...if anyone would even do that. We got in line for the petit train, but after less than 5 minutes of standing in line, I realized I didn't really want to take the train. Note: The petit "train" is not a real train, it's an open air shuttle. If you decide to take the train, realize you will probably have a bit of a line once you reach the other palaces because you are arriving with a group.
We walked down the the Royal Avenue towards the Grand Canal. The gardens, with hidden fountains, flanked us on both sides. At the bottom of the hill, inspiration struck. BICYCLES! To directly quote my travel journal, "Saw bikes for 6 Euro each/hour, so we gave my driver's license [as collateral] and hopped on. Mine squeaked and clacked pretty loud. Like speed demons, we raced past walkers-THIS IS HOW TO TRAVEL!"
Obviously, I enjoy bike riding
We quickly made it to the Grand Trianon and parked our bikes at a bike rack outside (minus any bike locks which did cause a bit of nervousness on our part but no worries in the end). We decided to forego the main entry (and security/bag check) and just visited the second half of the palace which you can enter on the right. We were quickly in and out of the palace and on our way to the Petit Trianon.The line was long at the Petit Trianon so we decided to skip it and ride down to where we thought the Queen's Hamlet was located. But, after traveling to the border between the Chateau of Versailles and town, we realized we were on the wrong side on an embankment if we wanted to reach the Queen's Hamlet (we could see it above the embankment, however). A sign confirmed that the main entrance to the Queen's Hamlet was back at the Petit Trianon. So, back we went, passing white blobs that were grazing sheep-the yellow chateau in the distance.
We saw the Temple of Love on our way back, however, we never could figure out how to get over the embankment and into the Hamlet. It was nearing time for the fountain show to begin, so we headed back. Leaving down the road from the Grand Trianon, my husband ahead of me, I turned around on my bicycle because I heard a car coming.
I didn't realize it at the time (learning in Amsterdam on a Mike's Bike Tour what must have happened), however, I clampped down on my front break which caused me to fall hard on the ground. Several extremely loud F-bombs succeeded to flow from my mouth as I tried to get out of the road. Luckily, I only fell on my right side with my wrist, elbow, and leg scraped and bruised. I didn't tear my favorite jeans and my white tank top only had a few dust marks from the fall. I had no broken bones or missing teeth, so I couldn't ask for more, really. I was just glad I didn't "crack my coconut" (bust my head open) as my husband so eloquently put it!
I was proud of the bloody scrape on my elbow, so I had my husband take my picture-wound and all. I only had a few tears after moving the bike out of the road, not from any pain but from being shaken up over the fall. My husband told me I was tough and I took it as a great compliment.
Oct 3rd, 2006, 05:41 PM
#18
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When we returned the rental bikes, one of the staff members took note of my scraped and bleeding arm and asked if I fell. It was that obvious. After dropping off the bikes, my husband and I split up: I went to the bathroom to further clean up my arm and he purchased a slice of pizza and a diet coke from a food stand. When I met back up with him, he told me it would be best if I didn't know how much those two items cost (I still don't know, but I imagine they were pretty pricey).
We walked back up the Royal Avenue, eating the slice of pizza as we went (it wasn't really good pizza). My husband had the self-appointed duty of finding us the "cool" fountains. He used an English guidebook to Versailles that I picked up for him during my solo trip in 2003. I figured since he'd missed the Hall of Mirrors the first time around he could at least look at pictures until we were able to visit Paris again. The guidebook is excellent and they still sell it at Versailles. The English book has a dark blue spine and cost around 16 Euro.
We saw a few random fountains before we hit pay dirt with the Baths of Apollo. It is my favorite fountain of all time! This isn't really a fountain so much as it is figures set into a grotto with waterfalls surrounded by lush green grass.
I had to take my shoes off and feel the grass between my toes...granted, I did get married barefoot and walked down a grassy aisle at my wedding so the need to remove my shoes may only apply to me! I noted in my travel journal that this is the "best grass ever!"
I could have stayed at this fountain until the fountain show ended at 5:30, but "We can't stay forever" and my huband was scouting out other "cool" fountains for us to see. We went to the Ballroom fountain which was pretty neat but by the time we made it to the Colonnade fountain which was also supposed to be neat, the fountains had dried up.
We walked back up the Royal Avenue, eating the slice of pizza as we went (it wasn't really good pizza). My husband had the self-appointed duty of finding us the "cool" fountains. He used an English guidebook to Versailles that I picked up for him during my solo trip in 2003. I figured since he'd missed the Hall of Mirrors the first time around he could at least look at pictures until we were able to visit Paris again. The guidebook is excellent and they still sell it at Versailles. The English book has a dark blue spine and cost around 16 Euro.
We saw a few random fountains before we hit pay dirt with the Baths of Apollo. It is my favorite fountain of all time! This isn't really a fountain so much as it is figures set into a grotto with waterfalls surrounded by lush green grass.
I had to take my shoes off and feel the grass between my toes...granted, I did get married barefoot and walked down a grassy aisle at my wedding so the need to remove my shoes may only apply to me! I noted in my travel journal that this is the "best grass ever!"
I could have stayed at this fountain until the fountain show ended at 5:30, but "We can't stay forever" and my huband was scouting out other "cool" fountains for us to see. We went to the Ballroom fountain which was pretty neat but by the time we made it to the Colonnade fountain which was also supposed to be neat, the fountains had dried up.
Oct 3rd, 2006, 07:11 PM
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With the fountains dry, Versailles was preparing to shut down for the evening so we made our way to exit the chateau. Perhaps because it was a Saturday, there were several wedding parties taking pictures at the chateau. As we were leaving, the sun finally came out in all its glory (why did it wait until the end of the day) so we stopped to take some pictures over looking the Orangery. I told my husband we would make our way back to Versailles later that night for Les Fêtes de Nuit, however, for the time being, we needed to find a place to eat dinner.
In 2001, we had dinner at a Tex-Mex place that is on the walk to Versailles; this time, we decided on McDonalad's. The McDonald's is directly across the street from the train station. When we entered McDonald's there was a birthday party going on and those kids were HYPER!
We ate our food (which was better than Quick Burger) and relaxed. One of the wedding parties from Versailles ended up hanging outside of McD's. Unlike most McDonald's in the United States, the play area here was INSIDE the restaurant. The kids playing in the ballpit were literally screaming! So, my husband and I started screaming too-no one noticed as our voices blended with the kids!
In 2001, we had dinner at a Tex-Mex place that is on the walk to Versailles; this time, we decided on McDonalad's. The McDonald's is directly across the street from the train station. When we entered McDonald's there was a birthday party going on and those kids were HYPER!
We ate our food (which was better than Quick Burger) and relaxed. One of the wedding parties from Versailles ended up hanging outside of McD's. Unlike most McDonald's in the United States, the play area here was INSIDE the restaurant. The kids playing in the ballpit were literally screaming! So, my husband and I started screaming too-no one noticed as our voices blended with the kids!
