Our Trip to Puglia – Land of a Million Olive Trees!
Jul 13th, 2013, 12:41 PM
#41
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Robbie
Thanks for your reply to my inquiry.
I did find a tour that left from Bari. You had a choice of the number of days, anywhere from 2-6 days.
It received rave reviews from Trip Advisor. I have never taken tours and am not sure if that is the way for me to go.
However if I can not find a way to see this area on my own, I may sign up for a 3 day tour and then settle in 1 town for a few days on my own.
Any suggestions of a town that would be a good town to settle in for about 3 days that is a good walking town with restaurants and shops and also may have public transportation to another town.
Again I really enjoyed your report
Thanks for your reply to my inquiry.
I did find a tour that left from Bari. You had a choice of the number of days, anywhere from 2-6 days.
It received rave reviews from Trip Advisor. I have never taken tours and am not sure if that is the way for me to go.
However if I can not find a way to see this area on my own, I may sign up for a 3 day tour and then settle in 1 town for a few days on my own.
Any suggestions of a town that would be a good town to settle in for about 3 days that is a good walking town with restaurants and shops and also may have public transportation to another town.
Again I really enjoyed your report
Jul 14th, 2013, 07:15 AM
#42
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Frances & TDK:
Thanks for reading my report. We had a terrific time exploring Puglia.
As you read, we had a rental car for most of our trip, so I didn't really explore the public transportation options.
I copied this excerpt from another site: " These days, Italy’s principal trains are sleek, smart affairs that zip between the major cities at speeds in excess of those in Britain, and with much lower ticket prices. But it’s not all like that. Train journeys in the Italian south, including Puglia, are something of a throwback, though I mean that in a good way. Enjoy slow, meandering branch lines that in Britain would have been closed 60 years ago, and quaint, old-style carriages and dusty stations that slumber in the high summer sun.
The extensive state network (trenitalia.com) in Puglia makes rail a great way to explore. Lines run along the coast (this is the quickest, mainline route) and criss-cross the interior, and there are semi-private lines like the Ferrovie del Sud-Est (fseonline.it) that runs through the Valle d’Itria and some of Puglia’s prettiest countryside. It will also take you to two of the key tourist towns, Martina Franca and Alberobello."
The only train we took was from Bari to Trani. I was not the most impressed by Trani. It was pretty, had a nice harbor and the neat church, but beyond that I didn't see much of the appeal of the city. The tour of the castle/fort was a waste of time - not much to it.
Bari was nice to see and walk through (had all the high-end and otherwise shopping), but it was a bigger city and felt "gritty". We stayed there one night, mainly for logistical reasons (flight into the city one day, picking up our rental car the next day). It was the only city we visited where I felt a bit uncomfortable walking around after dark.
We liked Polignano a Mare. We didn't stay there, but I think that it would be a nice place to spend one night. Good restaurants, gorgeous cove and rocky beach below the high cliffs, nice stroll-able town.
Ostuni was really nice. Beautiful white-washed town on the hill with views of the sea. We only spent one night there, but would spend a couple if I got to do it over. Neat city, good vibe. Very hilly.
Matera (in Basilicata) was a fun town to spend a couple of nights in. VERRY HILLY. Tons of restaurants, nice large central square. Lots to see and explore there.
Finally, we really enjoyed the Martina Franca/Cisternino/Locorotondo area. These three towns are very close to one another. I'm sure that they have frequent bus service between them. They were all neat, walkable small towns. The evening passagiata was alive and well (and fun to observe) in each of the towns, especially in Martina Franca. Good restaurants and shopping as well.
Hope that helps.
Please let me know if you have other/additional questions.
Ciao,
Robbie
Thanks for reading my report. We had a terrific time exploring Puglia.
As you read, we had a rental car for most of our trip, so I didn't really explore the public transportation options.
I copied this excerpt from another site: " These days, Italy’s principal trains are sleek, smart affairs that zip between the major cities at speeds in excess of those in Britain, and with much lower ticket prices. But it’s not all like that. Train journeys in the Italian south, including Puglia, are something of a throwback, though I mean that in a good way. Enjoy slow, meandering branch lines that in Britain would have been closed 60 years ago, and quaint, old-style carriages and dusty stations that slumber in the high summer sun.
The extensive state network (trenitalia.com) in Puglia makes rail a great way to explore. Lines run along the coast (this is the quickest, mainline route) and criss-cross the interior, and there are semi-private lines like the Ferrovie del Sud-Est (fseonline.it) that runs through the Valle d’Itria and some of Puglia’s prettiest countryside. It will also take you to two of the key tourist towns, Martina Franca and Alberobello."
The only train we took was from Bari to Trani. I was not the most impressed by Trani. It was pretty, had a nice harbor and the neat church, but beyond that I didn't see much of the appeal of the city. The tour of the castle/fort was a waste of time - not much to it.
Bari was nice to see and walk through (had all the high-end and otherwise shopping), but it was a bigger city and felt "gritty". We stayed there one night, mainly for logistical reasons (flight into the city one day, picking up our rental car the next day). It was the only city we visited where I felt a bit uncomfortable walking around after dark.
We liked Polignano a Mare. We didn't stay there, but I think that it would be a nice place to spend one night. Good restaurants, gorgeous cove and rocky beach below the high cliffs, nice stroll-able town.
Ostuni was really nice. Beautiful white-washed town on the hill with views of the sea. We only spent one night there, but would spend a couple if I got to do it over. Neat city, good vibe. Very hilly.
Matera (in Basilicata) was a fun town to spend a couple of nights in. VERRY HILLY. Tons of restaurants, nice large central square. Lots to see and explore there.
Finally, we really enjoyed the Martina Franca/Cisternino/Locorotondo area. These three towns are very close to one another. I'm sure that they have frequent bus service between them. They were all neat, walkable small towns. The evening passagiata was alive and well (and fun to observe) in each of the towns, especially in Martina Franca. Good restaurants and shopping as well.
Hope that helps.
Please let me know if you have other/additional questions.
Ciao,
Robbie
Jul 14th, 2013, 10:48 AM
#43
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Robbie, you are an angel.
Thank you so much for your reply, it is so helpful.
I have only just found this site but it is so interesting. Previously, I have been relying on tripadvisor!
Do you have other trip reports I can read by the way?
Have you visited the UK/
Many thanks,
Frances
Thank you so much for your reply, it is so helpful.
I have only just found this site but it is so interesting. Previously, I have been relying on tripadvisor!
Do you have other trip reports I can read by the way?
Have you visited the UK/
Many thanks,
Frances
Jul 14th, 2013, 03:02 PM
#45
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Robbbie
Thank you so much for all the info.
I am now thinking it will be doable for me to visit Puglia using public transportation.
Obviously having a car would be better but there is no way I would attempt to drive, also not sure if they would rent a car to a 84 year old women, which will be my age when I make this trip.
Really excited about visitng Puglia and I will start making plans now for my trip May 2014
Tina.
Thank you so much for all the info.
I am now thinking it will be doable for me to visit Puglia using public transportation.
Obviously having a car would be better but there is no way I would attempt to drive, also not sure if they would rent a car to a 84 year old women, which will be my age when I make this trip.
Really excited about visitng Puglia and I will start making plans now for my trip May 2014
Tina.
Jul 17th, 2013, 02:54 AM
#46
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Hey, Frances:
Glad that you're enjoying the Fodors site. I find it very addicting!
We have not made it to the UK yet - it's on our list.
The only other trip report I've written on Fodors is the one from our fun visit to Mallorca, Spain a couple years ago. You can click on my screen name and it should take you there. Thanks again for your kind comments. I look forward to reading your future trip reports!
Leely and Tina, I'm glad that you found the info helpful. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
May was a terrific time of year to visit Puglia. Blue skies, great temps, wildflowers (and red poppies) in bloom all over, no crowds! The water was a bit chilly to swim, but I jumped in a few of the hotel pools and we ankle-waded at a few of the beaches.
Robbie
Glad that you're enjoying the Fodors site. I find it very addicting!
We have not made it to the UK yet - it's on our list.
The only other trip report I've written on Fodors is the one from our fun visit to Mallorca, Spain a couple years ago. You can click on my screen name and it should take you there. Thanks again for your kind comments. I look forward to reading your future trip reports!
Leely and Tina, I'm glad that you found the info helpful. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
May was a terrific time of year to visit Puglia. Blue skies, great temps, wildflowers (and red poppies) in bloom all over, no crowds! The water was a bit chilly to swim, but I jumped in a few of the hotel pools and we ankle-waded at a few of the beaches.
Robbie
Aug 24th, 2013, 04:44 AM
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We'll be in Puglia for a week this September and I really enjoyed reading your trip report. I immediately "cut and pasted" lots of en route tips! Hope the weather's still warm enough to enjoy the water at the beaches we'll be visiting. Your descriptions make them sound SO appealing! Thanks so much for taking the time to share.
Sarah
Sarah
Nov 14th, 2013, 11:38 AM
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Robbie
I have so enjoyed reading your report of Puglia. My husband and I are returning there for the month of April 2014.....we spent a week in Trito right near Locorotondo in 2010 and have been anxious to return. This trip we are based in Lecce for the month......we will have friends with us for the first week and will have a car for that time frame only. I have made copious notes from your report and have already emailed L'Astore for information on tasting and tours. Restoranti Art Nouveau is doubled starred as a must!!! We will be in Puglia for Easter and plan to go to Gallopoli for some of their Easter week celebrations. If you have any other thoughts of special places please let me know. Our apartment comes with bikes we will be enjoying riding around Lecce and the area.
I have so enjoyed reading your report of Puglia. My husband and I are returning there for the month of April 2014.....we spent a week in Trito right near Locorotondo in 2010 and have been anxious to return. This trip we are based in Lecce for the month......we will have friends with us for the first week and will have a car for that time frame only. I have made copious notes from your report and have already emailed L'Astore for information on tasting and tours. Restoranti Art Nouveau is doubled starred as a must!!! We will be in Puglia for Easter and plan to go to Gallopoli for some of their Easter week celebrations. If you have any other thoughts of special places please let me know. Our apartment comes with bikes we will be enjoying riding around Lecce and the area.
Nov 30th, 2013, 11:31 AM
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Robbie
I forgot to mention in the above reply.....we also had Nadia for our guide of Matera back in 2010 and "Yes" she was fantastic. With generations of her fammily from Matera her story and knowledge of her "town" is captivating. We felt so fortunate to have Nadia as the gal we had booked way in advance somehow double booked and sent Nadia as her replacement. After reading about L'Astore we are all booked for day of cooking school and wine and olive oil tasting. Again thank you.
I forgot to mention in the above reply.....we also had Nadia for our guide of Matera back in 2010 and "Yes" she was fantastic. With generations of her fammily from Matera her story and knowledge of her "town" is captivating. We felt so fortunate to have Nadia as the gal we had booked way in advance somehow double booked and sent Nadia as her replacement. After reading about L'Astore we are all booked for day of cooking school and wine and olive oil tasting. Again thank you.
Nov 14th, 2014, 03:54 PM
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My husband and I visited Puglia in May 2013 and followed a route similar to yours. I so enjoyed reliving the trip with you!
We had so much fun we are returning in May 2015 with four other couples and are staying put at Masseria il Frantoio for 5 nights. This is a huge splurge for us, but the food and ambiance will be worth it. Taking day trips each day.
We did not visit Punta Prosciutto, however, and will add this to our itinerary. Someone mentioned a place near Ristorante Art Nouveau for a lunch stop, but I did not see the name. Do you know it?
Thank you so much for the fabulous trip report!!!
We had so much fun we are returning in May 2015 with four other couples and are staying put at Masseria il Frantoio for 5 nights. This is a huge splurge for us, but the food and ambiance will be worth it. Taking day trips each day.
We did not visit Punta Prosciutto, however, and will add this to our itinerary. Someone mentioned a place near Ristorante Art Nouveau for a lunch stop, but I did not see the name. Do you know it?
Thank you so much for the fabulous trip report!!!
Nov 17th, 2014, 12:42 PM
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We also just came back from Puglia. First time there, but we have visited many other regions in Italy. Our trip was different in scope, but just as wonderful. We also flew in and out of Bari (Voi D'Oriente--great hotel), rented a car and based ourselves around Fasano for day trips. We treated ourselves and stayed in a luxury resort, Borgo Egnazia. And the food throughout the region was the VERY best I've had in all of Italy (including Piemonte)!! We would love to return.
