Our SPECTACULAR Scottish Journey!!!
Jul 19th, 2023 | 05:05 AM
#143
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,205
Likes: 0
Glad my TR is helping you with ideas for your Scotland trip. There are numerous, numerous hiking opportunities on Skye, some flat and some uphill. Another walkers/hikers paradise is Glen Coe. We spent 2 nights there after Skye.
Jul 19th, 2023 | 06:05 AM
#144
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,339
Likes: 8
Did you spend a lot of time on photoshop? I didn’t believe they actually had skies like that on Skye. 
I can really tell how dry it is compared to our trip which was an early July. A friend of mine is hiking the West Highland Way right now and says it’s rain every day.
Enjoying this report, thanks!
I can really tell how dry it is compared to our trip which was an early July. A friend of mine is hiking the West Highland Way right now and says it’s rain every day.
Enjoying this report, thanks!
Jul 19th, 2023 | 09:32 AM
#145
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,205
Likes: 0
Did you spend a lot of time on photoshop? I didnt believe they actually had skies like that on Skye.
I can really tell how dry it is compared to our trip which was an early July. A friend of mine is hiking the West Highland Way right now and says its rain every day.
Enjoying this report, thanks!
I can really tell how dry it is compared to our trip which was an early July. A friend of mine is hiking the West Highland Way right now and says its rain every day.
Enjoying this report, thanks!
Jul 19th, 2023 | 09:37 AM
#146
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,205
Likes: 0
JUNE 10, 2023: A TALE OF MASSACRES AND REVENGE; DUNVEGAN CASTLE; AND A CARIBBEAN BEACH
After breakfast we drove to Trumpan Church on the Waternish Peninsula. Trumpan Church is the site of a horrific massacre in 1578. The MacDonalds and the MacLeods had a fierce clan rivalry going. In 1577 the raiding MacLeods landed on the island of Eigg. The MacDonalds hid in a cave but the MacLeods lit a fire in the entrance to the cave and all the MacDonalds suffocated. Of course, the MacDonalds started plotting their revenge. A year later when the MacLeods were worshiping inside Trumpan Church, the MacDonalds blocked the door and set fire to the thatched roof. Everyone died except a young girl who ran to Dunvegan to sound the alarm. The MacDonalds couldn’t escape because of the retreating tide, so the MacLeods from the area were able to kill the entire MacDonald raiding party. What a horrific massacre! And such a sad story.
The Trumpan Church ruins are a much more peaceful place now. The drive out there was really lovely with very pretty, bucolic, and pastoral scenery. We saw very few cars on the road, and there were only a few people at the church. And this is where we saw our first and only Hairy Coos!!!
After leaving here we drove to Dunvegan Castle and Gardens, which has been the home of the chiefs of Clan MacLeod for over 800 years. In fact, the current chief lives in London but does come to Dunvegan for visits. I had read in several places that some people think the interior of the Castle is not that interesting. We did visit inside and we are glad we did. The rooms are interesting, and there are guides stationed in the rooms to answer questions. Not a lot of rooms are open to the public but just enough to make it interesting. Sometimes rooms become blurry when there are just too many to see.
We learned about the Fairy Flag, flown in battle by the MacLeods. There are many legends apparently. One favorite legend is that a Fairy Princess fell in love with a MacLeod Chief but her father wouldn’t allow them to marry. He allowed her to stay with the chief for a year and a day, and then she had to return to Fairy Land. She had given birth to their baby and left the baby with the MacLeod Chief. One night when the baby’s father was at a feast in the castle, the nanny left the nursery to watch the festivities. While she was gone, the baby was crying and his Fairy Princess mother came to him and gave him a shawl to comfort him. This shawl is the Fairy Flag.
Another thing I learned is that in the “olden” days the islanders used to trap puffins and simmer them in their porridge to add flavor! I feel so bad for the puffins, and puffin-flavored porridge does not sound appetizing to me. I know we eat meat from other animals and birds, but I never knew people ate puffins. They are so cute!
We also walked around the formal gardens and woodland gardens which are very pretty. We have really enjoyed all the gardens we visited on our trip. I didn’t expect so many beautiful flowers so far north. For people who are planning a trip here, I definitely recommend visiting both the castle and the gardens. I think it makes for a more enjoyable and fulfilling experience.
After having lunch at the caf in the carpark, we headed to Claigan Coral Beach, not too far away from Dunvegan. When you see this beach, you will think you are in the Caribbean with its white sand and light blue waters. The sand is actually made up of flakes of fossilized seaweed called maerl. You follow the path from the car park for about a mile.
The walk is along a flat and very pleasant path along the water. You pass some cows on the way. We probably walked close to a mile but didn’t quite make it to the beach because it was getting late, and we hoped to go to Neist Point. But we got close enough to take photos. This is a popular spot, and there were lots of people carrying picnic baskets and other beach paraphernalia to the beach. They have a lot of energy! 😊
Our stressful getaway from the carpark: So we returned to the carpark, which is a very small and narrow carpark, the only one we had difficulty leaving! We had parked our car in the very last parking spot next to this large pile of rocks. It was very tight. No place to turn around, and impossible to back out of. My husband directed Joanne while she backed out of our space, and miraculously turned the car frontwards so we wouldn’t have to back out of the very narrow carpark. I wouldn’t have the patience to do this. So she drove forwards, and then at the beginning of the carpark, where there is a turn on to the road, there was a car facing us who was refusing to move. And we didn’t move; we didn’t have any place to go. The driver of the other car got out of his car and asked us to back up to where we just came from and he insisted we had room. We didn’t have room. I don’t know where he expected us to go. We told him there aren’t any other empty parking spaces. Then he told us there were 3 cars behind him waiting to get in, but we couldn’t see them because of the bend in the road. YIKES!!! At the bend, there is a very small open area. He told the other drivers what was going on, and somehow some of them fit into this small space (not a parking space) and others pulled way over to the side (somehow avoiding the ditch). We narrowly got by these cars without hitting them. Sorry to be so long-winded but this was the only place that caused us any stress.
So at this point it was too late to go to Neist Point, which is about 15 miles away from Claigan Beach. We were all stressed from our ordeal at the carpark, and we needed a drink! 😊
I had originally made dinner reservations at The Harbour in Broadford, but when I realized how far it is from Portree, we cancelled those reservations. We were able to get reservations at A Taste of India in Portree. The food is delicious and well prepared, and the staff are efficient and friendly, so this was a good last-minute choice.
After breakfast we drove to Trumpan Church on the Waternish Peninsula. Trumpan Church is the site of a horrific massacre in 1578. The MacDonalds and the MacLeods had a fierce clan rivalry going. In 1577 the raiding MacLeods landed on the island of Eigg. The MacDonalds hid in a cave but the MacLeods lit a fire in the entrance to the cave and all the MacDonalds suffocated. Of course, the MacDonalds started plotting their revenge. A year later when the MacLeods were worshiping inside Trumpan Church, the MacDonalds blocked the door and set fire to the thatched roof. Everyone died except a young girl who ran to Dunvegan to sound the alarm. The MacDonalds couldn’t escape because of the retreating tide, so the MacLeods from the area were able to kill the entire MacDonald raiding party. What a horrific massacre! And such a sad story.
The Trumpan Church ruins are a much more peaceful place now. The drive out there was really lovely with very pretty, bucolic, and pastoral scenery. We saw very few cars on the road, and there were only a few people at the church. And this is where we saw our first and only Hairy Coos!!!
After leaving here we drove to Dunvegan Castle and Gardens, which has been the home of the chiefs of Clan MacLeod for over 800 years. In fact, the current chief lives in London but does come to Dunvegan for visits. I had read in several places that some people think the interior of the Castle is not that interesting. We did visit inside and we are glad we did. The rooms are interesting, and there are guides stationed in the rooms to answer questions. Not a lot of rooms are open to the public but just enough to make it interesting. Sometimes rooms become blurry when there are just too many to see.
We learned about the Fairy Flag, flown in battle by the MacLeods. There are many legends apparently. One favorite legend is that a Fairy Princess fell in love with a MacLeod Chief but her father wouldn’t allow them to marry. He allowed her to stay with the chief for a year and a day, and then she had to return to Fairy Land. She had given birth to their baby and left the baby with the MacLeod Chief. One night when the baby’s father was at a feast in the castle, the nanny left the nursery to watch the festivities. While she was gone, the baby was crying and his Fairy Princess mother came to him and gave him a shawl to comfort him. This shawl is the Fairy Flag.
Another thing I learned is that in the “olden” days the islanders used to trap puffins and simmer them in their porridge to add flavor! I feel so bad for the puffins, and puffin-flavored porridge does not sound appetizing to me. I know we eat meat from other animals and birds, but I never knew people ate puffins. They are so cute!
We also walked around the formal gardens and woodland gardens which are very pretty. We have really enjoyed all the gardens we visited on our trip. I didn’t expect so many beautiful flowers so far north. For people who are planning a trip here, I definitely recommend visiting both the castle and the gardens. I think it makes for a more enjoyable and fulfilling experience.
After having lunch at the caf in the carpark, we headed to Claigan Coral Beach, not too far away from Dunvegan. When you see this beach, you will think you are in the Caribbean with its white sand and light blue waters. The sand is actually made up of flakes of fossilized seaweed called maerl. You follow the path from the car park for about a mile.
The walk is along a flat and very pleasant path along the water. You pass some cows on the way. We probably walked close to a mile but didn’t quite make it to the beach because it was getting late, and we hoped to go to Neist Point. But we got close enough to take photos. This is a popular spot, and there were lots of people carrying picnic baskets and other beach paraphernalia to the beach. They have a lot of energy! 😊
Our stressful getaway from the carpark: So we returned to the carpark, which is a very small and narrow carpark, the only one we had difficulty leaving! We had parked our car in the very last parking spot next to this large pile of rocks. It was very tight. No place to turn around, and impossible to back out of. My husband directed Joanne while she backed out of our space, and miraculously turned the car frontwards so we wouldn’t have to back out of the very narrow carpark. I wouldn’t have the patience to do this. So she drove forwards, and then at the beginning of the carpark, where there is a turn on to the road, there was a car facing us who was refusing to move. And we didn’t move; we didn’t have any place to go. The driver of the other car got out of his car and asked us to back up to where we just came from and he insisted we had room. We didn’t have room. I don’t know where he expected us to go. We told him there aren’t any other empty parking spaces. Then he told us there were 3 cars behind him waiting to get in, but we couldn’t see them because of the bend in the road. YIKES!!! At the bend, there is a very small open area. He told the other drivers what was going on, and somehow some of them fit into this small space (not a parking space) and others pulled way over to the side (somehow avoiding the ditch). We narrowly got by these cars without hitting them. Sorry to be so long-winded but this was the only place that caused us any stress.
So at this point it was too late to go to Neist Point, which is about 15 miles away from Claigan Beach. We were all stressed from our ordeal at the carpark, and we needed a drink! 😊
I had originally made dinner reservations at The Harbour in Broadford, but when I realized how far it is from Portree, we cancelled those reservations. We were able to get reservations at A Taste of India in Portree. The food is delicious and well prepared, and the staff are efficient and friendly, so this was a good last-minute choice.
Last edited by KarenWoo; Jul 19th, 2023 at 09:45 AM.
Jul 19th, 2023 | 09:53 AM
#147
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,205
Likes: 0
Our first and only Hairy coo sighting!
They are so cute!
Beautiful scenery next to the site of a horrible massacre
The road to Trumpan Church
A pastoral vista right next to Trumpan Church
Gravestones at Trumpan Church
Trumpan Church ruins - site of a horrific massacre in 1578
More gravestones
Jul 19th, 2023 | 10:07 AM
#148
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,205
Likes: 0
Dunvegan Castle - home to the MacLeod clan for over 800 years
Pretty bedroom
Elegant dining room
The drawing room
Dunvegan Castle and Gardens
The trap that got the puffin 😢
Scary lady in the dungeon! I wasn't expecting her and actually jumped and let out a startled cry.
Dunvegan gardens
Love the lupines!
Red poppies are everywhere!
Scenery along the path to Claigan Beach
Claigan Coral Beach - Are we in the Caribbean - did we make a wrong turn somewhere? This beach is featured in Netflix's series Outlaw King.
Cows on the way to the beach
And the cute black-faced sheep on the way back to Portree.
Jul 19th, 2023 | 12:25 PM
#150
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,398
Likes: 0
KarenWoo, your photos on Skye are just gorgeous! And really, the weather! Unbelievable!
Your parking lot experience - so nerve-wracking! I remember driving on single lane roads in Scotland and Wales. There were usually small places to pull over so another car could pass. Perhaps that was the case at the parking lot?
Your parking lot experience - so nerve-wracking! I remember driving on single lane roads in Scotland and Wales. There were usually small places to pull over so another car could pass. Perhaps that was the case at the parking lot?
Jul 19th, 2023 | 01:07 PM
#151
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,205
Likes: 0
Progol, You are right; there are tons of small places to pull over on the single-track roads. And that might be what that teeny tiny space was at the bend where the carpark met the single-track road. But when you have 4 cars trying to maneuver around, it was very tricky. And you have to watch out for ditches. Luckily, that was the only place where we had a problem.
Jul 19th, 2023 | 01:18 PM
#152
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 75,010
Likes: 50
You are in good company. There are hundreds of reviews of the beach on google . . . and 3/4 of them mention carpark 'issues'"Well, this is more about the beach. The carpark is unfortunately too small and very narrow to park decently. "
"Car park gets very busy so you will need to be brave parking unless you arrive very early in the summer! "
"Car park needs to be about 3 x larger. Cars parked rather dangerously in the car park and further down the road leading to it. These photos were taken at 8:30pm and as you can see, still pretty busy. Potholes galore. Still, it's free and within a 20 minute walk to the beach so can't complain too much i suppose."
"Quite a small car park , luckily we went in December this time and actually managed to get a parking space,"
"A very small and tricky car park. Get there early.."
"Can be tricky getting parked unless you come early morning or later in afternoon."
ete etc etc
Jul 20th, 2023 | 10:13 AM
#153
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,205
Likes: 0
JUNE 11, 2023: MISTY MOUNTAINS, TALISKER WHISKY, & THE SPECTACULAR FAIRY POOLS
This morning we actually woke up to overcast skies and a heavy mist! First time since we have been in Scotland. We actually loved it. This is the first day (and last day) I wore my rain-proof windbreaker. Only for the morning, though, because then the skies cleared. The mist and fog is what I think of when I think of Scotland. But I am not complaining about the beautiful and sunny weather we have had. The weather gods were smiling on us the whole trip! 😊
Our first destination on our road trip today is Sligachan. There is the Old Sligachan Bridge with the Red and Black Cuillin Mountains in the background. I read that these mountains are often shrouded in mist or clouds, and they certainly were today. The Sligachan Hotel is directly across the street from the bridge and the statue to mountaineers Collie and Mackenzie.
From here we drove to the Talisker Distillery for our scheduled distillery tour and whisky tasting. Talisker is the oldest working distillery on Skye. The tour costs 20 pounds per person. I am not a whisky drinker; I never drink it at home, but I did enjoy the tour and tasting. I had no idea how whisky was made and what a distillery looks like. We bought 4 bottles of whisky to bring home for my husband and as gifts for our daughters and their husbands.
It was lunch time, and first we drove to the Oyster Shed, which is closed on Sundays (and today is Sunday). So we decided to try The Old Inn, located on Loch Harport. The pub was very busy, but we were fortunate to get a table for 4 outdoors overlooking the loch. This is another great place for meals. I didnt write down what the men had, but we shared chicken wings, I had a rich and delicious seafood chowder, and Joanne had fish and chips, which she said was as good as or even better than the Anstruther Fish Bar.
After our delicious lunch, we drove to the Fairy Pools which are spectacular and stunning! We love this place and its one of our favorites on Skye. We did a lot of oohing and aahing! With the Cuillin Mountains as the backdrop, the scenery is so majestic. On this day the pools and river were not overflowing with water because of the lack of rain. So you didnt have gushing waterfalls. What makes this place so spectacular are the Cuillin Mountains in the background. I am sure that with more water this place is even more mind-blowing. There were a lot of people here, including families pushing babies in strollers. And people actually swimming in the pools in various stages of undress. How brave! The water must be frigid!
Our dinner reservations for tonight are at Fraser at Bracken Hide in Portree. This is a new restaurant/accommodations that opened in March. The food is so tasty and so well prepared and presented. Definitely one of our favorites. The service is a bit slow but we werent in a rush. The accommodations are pods located up the hill behind the restaurant. Check-in is at the restaurant building where there are some lovely lounges and a bar. I would not want to stay here, though, because the guests have to walk uphill with their luggage after they check in. And the parking lot for the restaurant guests and hotel guests are below the restaurant. So a lot of walking. But the guests are allowed to drive up to the restaurant to drop off their luggage, but then return to the parking lot below. So not the most convenient set up.
This morning we actually woke up to overcast skies and a heavy mist! First time since we have been in Scotland. We actually loved it. This is the first day (and last day) I wore my rain-proof windbreaker. Only for the morning, though, because then the skies cleared. The mist and fog is what I think of when I think of Scotland. But I am not complaining about the beautiful and sunny weather we have had. The weather gods were smiling on us the whole trip! 😊
Our first destination on our road trip today is Sligachan. There is the Old Sligachan Bridge with the Red and Black Cuillin Mountains in the background. I read that these mountains are often shrouded in mist or clouds, and they certainly were today. The Sligachan Hotel is directly across the street from the bridge and the statue to mountaineers Collie and Mackenzie.
From here we drove to the Talisker Distillery for our scheduled distillery tour and whisky tasting. Talisker is the oldest working distillery on Skye. The tour costs 20 pounds per person. I am not a whisky drinker; I never drink it at home, but I did enjoy the tour and tasting. I had no idea how whisky was made and what a distillery looks like. We bought 4 bottles of whisky to bring home for my husband and as gifts for our daughters and their husbands.
It was lunch time, and first we drove to the Oyster Shed, which is closed on Sundays (and today is Sunday). So we decided to try The Old Inn, located on Loch Harport. The pub was very busy, but we were fortunate to get a table for 4 outdoors overlooking the loch. This is another great place for meals. I didnt write down what the men had, but we shared chicken wings, I had a rich and delicious seafood chowder, and Joanne had fish and chips, which she said was as good as or even better than the Anstruther Fish Bar.
After our delicious lunch, we drove to the Fairy Pools which are spectacular and stunning! We love this place and its one of our favorites on Skye. We did a lot of oohing and aahing! With the Cuillin Mountains as the backdrop, the scenery is so majestic. On this day the pools and river were not overflowing with water because of the lack of rain. So you didnt have gushing waterfalls. What makes this place so spectacular are the Cuillin Mountains in the background. I am sure that with more water this place is even more mind-blowing. There were a lot of people here, including families pushing babies in strollers. And people actually swimming in the pools in various stages of undress. How brave! The water must be frigid!
Our dinner reservations for tonight are at Fraser at Bracken Hide in Portree. This is a new restaurant/accommodations that opened in March. The food is so tasty and so well prepared and presented. Definitely one of our favorites. The service is a bit slow but we werent in a rush. The accommodations are pods located up the hill behind the restaurant. Check-in is at the restaurant building where there are some lovely lounges and a bar. I would not want to stay here, though, because the guests have to walk uphill with their luggage after they check in. And the parking lot for the restaurant guests and hotel guests are below the restaurant. So a lot of walking. But the guests are allowed to drive up to the restaurant to drop off their luggage, but then return to the parking lot below. So not the most convenient set up.
Last edited by KarenWoo; Jul 20th, 2023 at 10:16 AM.
Jul 20th, 2023 | 10:37 AM
#154
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,205
Likes: 0
Finally - some misty mountains!
The Old Sligachan Bridge
Cuillin Mountains as seen from the Old Sligachan Bridge
Collie and Mackenzie viewing the misty mountains that they mapped 130 years ago
The oldest working distillery on Skye
Waiting room, bar and gift shop at the distillery
This is a guided tour that talks about steps involved - from fermentation to aging and bottling
Behind the scenes look at the Talisker Distillery
Whisky tasting - you get to sample 3 whiskys
Jul 20th, 2023 | 10:55 AM
#156
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,205
Likes: 0
The Old Inn in Carbost where we had lunch outdoors overlooking Loch Harport.
Our chicken wings - tasty but a bit spicy
My very delicious and filling seafood chowder
The Fairy Pools with the Black Cuillin Mountains in the background
Majestic scenery! Awe-inspiring!
The first and largest pool you see on your walk
There are more pools as you continue along on the path
We walked on the path for quite a distance. Close to a mile, I think
More beautiful scenery
What brave souls!
Will cool you off very quickly!
The long and winding trail
Jul 20th, 2023 | 11:05 AM
#157
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,205
Likes: 0
Ed and Joanne each had duck
Roger had fish pie
And I had salmon - might be the best salmon I have ever had - although every salmon dish in Scotland was excellent!
Ed and I shared this awesome dessert - chocolate and berries!
Roger and Joanne shared salted caramel ice cream
The pods at Bracken Hide - they are located uphill from the restaurant
The restaurant is in this building along with some lovely lounges and the bar. The main parking lot is below the restaurant.
Jul 20th, 2023 | 12:33 PM
#158
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,398
Likes: 0
Oh, KarenWoo, those meals! Wow! I’m salivating as I’m looking at the food photos - the salmon! The duck! Those desserts! Oh, my!
And I love the misty mountain shot! Of course, the other views are gorgeous, but there’s something about Scotland and the moody skies that really get to me.
My first visit to Skye was in 1973 and I took a hike up those hills with a group of people I met at the youth hostel. It was completely fogged in and we felt like we were the only people in the world because you could only see what was immediately around you. It was beautiful and so mystical, but it wasn’t until I went back with my husband that I had any real idea what it looked like!
And I love the misty mountain shot! Of course, the other views are gorgeous, but there’s something about Scotland and the moody skies that really get to me.
My first visit to Skye was in 1973 and I took a hike up those hills with a group of people I met at the youth hostel. It was completely fogged in and we felt like we were the only people in the world because you could only see what was immediately around you. It was beautiful and so mystical, but it wasn’t until I went back with my husband that I had any real idea what it looked like!
