Our (Somewhat) Laid Back Tour of Old Fave Stops in Italy
Feb 7th, 2017 | 11:31 AM
#61
Original Poster
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,118
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Boolanger, I love that story about Maratea, argh, now I feel totally ripped off at the price I paid to stay at Locanda delle Donne Monache, up the hill in Maratea! I think it is way overpriced for the location ie middle of nowhere...even though beautiful...
And the RC picnic, sometimes those are the best meals, aren't they? Good memories anyways.
Yes, I think it is the state of disrepair that is surprising, and I guess the lack of funds to look after things. In Enna, there were huge weeds growing out of the eaves of the cathedral.
I like it that everything is not spiffy clean, though, it gives more of a sense of antiquity when the buildings are allowed to show their age, like a sepia filter
And the RC picnic, sometimes those are the best meals, aren't they? Good memories anyways.
Yes, I think it is the state of disrepair that is surprising, and I guess the lack of funds to look after things. In Enna, there were huge weeds growing out of the eaves of the cathedral.
I like it that everything is not spiffy clean, though, it gives more of a sense of antiquity when the buildings are allowed to show their age, like a sepia filter
Feb 8th, 2017 | 12:12 AM
#63
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,118
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On our way out of Modica, we took a wrong turn and drove past some interesting troglodyte dwellings on our way to Ispica.
Ispica has some nice baroque architecture, but was very sleepy when we stopped for a break.
We followed google maps’ directions right into Siracusa without a problem. As soon as we pulled up in front of the Charme Hotel Henry’s House, a young man popped out of the door, and helped DH shoehorn into a parking spot. Our bags were in the hotel in seconds, and our car was whisked away to be parked somewhere nearby.
The staff here are outstanding in their warmth and hospitality. It’s an interesting hotel, as it is a 17th C building complete with original antique furniture and flooring, has various levels, outdoor terraces, and most rooms have a view over the Gulf of Ortigia.
http://www.hotelhenryshouse.com/en/
The location is wonderful, in the quiet end of Ortigia, but close to everything, and on the water side.
We walked up the street from the hotel, past Fonte Aretuza and on the short distance to the sublime Piazza del Duomo. This is one of my favorite piazzas in all of Italy, and we’re here late afternoon, the perfect time for aperitivi sitting outside across from the Duomo.
I love that at the end of May, it’s really not busy. No crowds. The sun shines on the Duomo in all its glory, and the piazza is lively with families, young people, tourists here to relax after a day of sightseeing, and just a few elderly ones that walk with a purpose, slowly climbing the stairs of the cathedral for their customary worship.
I try to imagine what it was like here centuries ago, when this was a Greek temple to the goddess Athena, the Doric columns of which are part of the structure of the present day church.
Syracuse was the most important city of Magna Grecia, and for a time rivalled Athens itself.
For the history of this interesting church, which at one time was also a mosque,
http://www.bestofsicily.com/mag/art423.htm
Fonte Aretusa is surrounded by another piazza where people gather to watch the sun go down over the Gulf of Ortigia. A few Sicilians are fishing over the edge of the railing. It seems to be gelato time, as everyone waits patiently for the moment of truth when the sun turns orange and reflects off the water.
We walked all along the water’s edge almost to the bridge to town, enjoying the beautiful evening, and feeling happy to be there again.
I will not speak of the terrible pizza we had at a tourist place along the water’s edge.
The terrace of Henry’s House is a very nice spot to enjoy cappuccino and breakfast before we leave to visit the Archaeological park in Syracuse. The hotel recommended a car service that, for Euro 10, took us to the park and dropped us off.
After buying your tickets, you must walk across the busy road to get into the Park. We started by walking around where the Ear of Dionysius is, and went inside where it was cool, and there was a guy singing some weird song that was echoing around the Ear.
The Greek Theater during that time period was in use for the Greek plays, which I had debated getting tickets for, (Electra) but ultimately did not.
What is interesting to me is that most of the seating was carved out of the living rock of the hillside, rather than stone being quarried and brought to the site.
It has a wonderful view over Ortigia and the bay, if you can imagine the modern city not being there.
The plays were revived in 1914, are staged from May to July, and use no sound equipment of course, because of the acoustics of the hillside.
The Roman amphitheater is not nearly so well preserved, but is interesting as the place where gladiator fights were held. It covers quite a large area, and on the walk down towards it, you can see the long stone base of the 3rd-century BC Altar of Hieron II, at 653 by 75 feet, the longest altar ever built.
There is little information posted about what you are seeing, which is really too bad. We didn’t do a tour, but I suspect that it could be helpful.
One morning, we decided to have a look at the market in Ortigia, which was fun and interesting, trying some different foods, taking photos of all the colorful vegetables and spices, and enjoying watching the fishmongers hamming it up, loudly advertising their wares.
We tried some baked ricotta, which was really good, some fresh cooked octopus, and I bought some salted, vacuum packed capers to take home.
In the afternoon, I talked DH into going on a boat tour of the harbour. Well, we ended up in a little boat that holds about ten people, small because it had to pass under the bridge on the way out to the coastline. A few moments of panic, as I wondered if I was going to be seasick in this little boat with the big waves.
I surprised myself that I managed to get through the whole thing without feeling at all queasy, a real feat for me. The boat ride was really fun, we went along the coast and into a couple of sea caves, then back into the harbour.
The coast is rocky and rugged, and the sea is the most beautiful colors of green and blue. Seeing Siracusa from the water was a real treat, and I would recommend this tour.
(This is where I found out from the operator’s wife that local Sicilians cut their red wine with Pepsi!! Shudder!)
We had planned a special meal this evening at Ristorante Regina Lucia. More about that later…
Ispica has some nice baroque architecture, but was very sleepy when we stopped for a break.
We followed google maps’ directions right into Siracusa without a problem. As soon as we pulled up in front of the Charme Hotel Henry’s House, a young man popped out of the door, and helped DH shoehorn into a parking spot. Our bags were in the hotel in seconds, and our car was whisked away to be parked somewhere nearby.
The staff here are outstanding in their warmth and hospitality. It’s an interesting hotel, as it is a 17th C building complete with original antique furniture and flooring, has various levels, outdoor terraces, and most rooms have a view over the Gulf of Ortigia.
http://www.hotelhenryshouse.com/en/
The location is wonderful, in the quiet end of Ortigia, but close to everything, and on the water side.
We walked up the street from the hotel, past Fonte Aretuza and on the short distance to the sublime Piazza del Duomo. This is one of my favorite piazzas in all of Italy, and we’re here late afternoon, the perfect time for aperitivi sitting outside across from the Duomo.
I love that at the end of May, it’s really not busy. No crowds. The sun shines on the Duomo in all its glory, and the piazza is lively with families, young people, tourists here to relax after a day of sightseeing, and just a few elderly ones that walk with a purpose, slowly climbing the stairs of the cathedral for their customary worship.
I try to imagine what it was like here centuries ago, when this was a Greek temple to the goddess Athena, the Doric columns of which are part of the structure of the present day church.
Syracuse was the most important city of Magna Grecia, and for a time rivalled Athens itself.
For the history of this interesting church, which at one time was also a mosque,
http://www.bestofsicily.com/mag/art423.htm
Fonte Aretusa is surrounded by another piazza where people gather to watch the sun go down over the Gulf of Ortigia. A few Sicilians are fishing over the edge of the railing. It seems to be gelato time, as everyone waits patiently for the moment of truth when the sun turns orange and reflects off the water.
We walked all along the water’s edge almost to the bridge to town, enjoying the beautiful evening, and feeling happy to be there again.
I will not speak of the terrible pizza we had at a tourist place along the water’s edge.
The terrace of Henry’s House is a very nice spot to enjoy cappuccino and breakfast before we leave to visit the Archaeological park in Syracuse. The hotel recommended a car service that, for Euro 10, took us to the park and dropped us off.
After buying your tickets, you must walk across the busy road to get into the Park. We started by walking around where the Ear of Dionysius is, and went inside where it was cool, and there was a guy singing some weird song that was echoing around the Ear.
The Greek Theater during that time period was in use for the Greek plays, which I had debated getting tickets for, (Electra) but ultimately did not.
What is interesting to me is that most of the seating was carved out of the living rock of the hillside, rather than stone being quarried and brought to the site.
It has a wonderful view over Ortigia and the bay, if you can imagine the modern city not being there.
The plays were revived in 1914, are staged from May to July, and use no sound equipment of course, because of the acoustics of the hillside.
The Roman amphitheater is not nearly so well preserved, but is interesting as the place where gladiator fights were held. It covers quite a large area, and on the walk down towards it, you can see the long stone base of the 3rd-century BC Altar of Hieron II, at 653 by 75 feet, the longest altar ever built.
There is little information posted about what you are seeing, which is really too bad. We didn’t do a tour, but I suspect that it could be helpful.
One morning, we decided to have a look at the market in Ortigia, which was fun and interesting, trying some different foods, taking photos of all the colorful vegetables and spices, and enjoying watching the fishmongers hamming it up, loudly advertising their wares.
We tried some baked ricotta, which was really good, some fresh cooked octopus, and I bought some salted, vacuum packed capers to take home.
In the afternoon, I talked DH into going on a boat tour of the harbour. Well, we ended up in a little boat that holds about ten people, small because it had to pass under the bridge on the way out to the coastline. A few moments of panic, as I wondered if I was going to be seasick in this little boat with the big waves.
I surprised myself that I managed to get through the whole thing without feeling at all queasy, a real feat for me. The boat ride was really fun, we went along the coast and into a couple of sea caves, then back into the harbour.
The coast is rocky and rugged, and the sea is the most beautiful colors of green and blue. Seeing Siracusa from the water was a real treat, and I would recommend this tour.
(This is where I found out from the operator’s wife that local Sicilians cut their red wine with Pepsi!! Shudder!)
We had planned a special meal this evening at Ristorante Regina Lucia. More about that later…
Feb 8th, 2017 | 03:37 AM
#64
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,754
Likes: 0
Glad to hear you took the boat tour! I really enjoyed it too on a Warm , but not too hot, day in May. Certainly a different perspective seeing the island and city from the water.
Yes, the piazza on Ortigia is probably my most favorite in all of Italy! Just the right size, architecture, lighting. Beautiful and charming.
Yes, the piazza on Ortigia is probably my most favorite in all of Italy! Just the right size, architecture, lighting. Beautiful and charming.
Feb 8th, 2017 | 07:17 AM
#65
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
Shame about the pizza, sundried! but I agree about the Piazza del Duomo in Ortigia - gorgeous. it was pretty busy in September but still spectacular.
As for ticket offices at the Archaeological park, we got the bus up there, which dropped us off in the car park where we bought our tickets. But as we walked down towards the Roman amphitheatre, we saw another biglieterria on the left, and yet another at the bottom before you enter the area for the Greek amphitheatre. I assume that they all sell the same tickets.
We got a combined ticket including the archeological museum which we enjoyed but we were pretty tired by then. You walk past the rather modern church on the way which was a nice place to stop and sit for a few minutes to admire the rather striking architecture and stained glass.
As for ticket offices at the Archaeological park, we got the bus up there, which dropped us off in the car park where we bought our tickets. But as we walked down towards the Roman amphitheatre, we saw another biglieterria on the left, and yet another at the bottom before you enter the area for the Greek amphitheatre. I assume that they all sell the same tickets.
We got a combined ticket including the archeological museum which we enjoyed but we were pretty tired by then. You walk past the rather modern church on the way which was a nice place to stop and sit for a few minutes to admire the rather striking architecture and stained glass.
Feb 8th, 2017 | 09:30 AM
#66
Original Poster
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
Dayle, I'm glad I overcame my FOGSS (fear of getting sea sick)
Annhig, the first time we visited was in early October, and it was in the 30's C range. We walked from our hotel, and by the time we walked all around the Archaeoligical park and got half way home I was getting to feel very unwell from the heat.
That modern church is so unappealing from a distance, lol, that we didn't bother seeking it out.
Annhig, the first time we visited was in early October, and it was in the 30's C range. We walked from our hotel, and by the time we walked all around the Archaeoligical park and got half way home I was getting to feel very unwell from the heat.
That modern church is so unappealing from a distance, lol, that we didn't bother seeking it out.
Feb 8th, 2017 | 12:38 PM
#67
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
sundried - it wasn't THAT hot when we were there, though it was quite warm. taking the bus up there helped as did the beers that we had in the cafe just outside the park.
The church was definitely worth stopping for, if only because it was very cool inside, which was surprisingly well done.
The church was definitely worth stopping for, if only because it was very cool inside, which was surprisingly well done.
Feb 8th, 2017 | 01:08 PM
#68
Original Poster
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
ON FOOD
From our first trip to Europe until the present, our eating habits have changed quite a bit. It’s been a kind of ‘learn as you go’ experience.
From “Euro a slice” pizza on our first trip, to our first Michelin star restaurant on this trip, food has taken on a more important role in our travels. I find that the more one learns about the places being visited, the more appreciation there is for the cuisine and how it developed.
We’re not food snobs, we enjoy pizza (hard to get a bad one) and the home-cooked style food of the trattoria and osteria, which, in my opinion, represent the true cuisine of the region, and picnics from goodies gleaned at markets.
Like a lot of first-time European travellers, though, we initially just looked for somewhere to eat close by to where ever we happened to be, somewhere clean and where the food looked appetizing. We had a lot of bad meals using that strategy, and spent much time wandering around looking for a decent restaurant.
Now, I research restaurants, pinpoint ones we definitely want to try, and use google maps to ‘favorite’ other interesting choices. Then, when I look at my iPad map, I can see what starred choices are close to our present location. Thank you to someone on Fodor’s for that tip!
So, Regina Lucia was a planned splurge. We dressed up and off we went. The restaurant, in the beautiful Palazzo Borgia del Casale, is modern formal in décor. Here is my tripadvisor review with pics:
https://www.tripadvisor.ca/Restauran...y.html#REVIEWS
This place is definitely worth the splurge. Complete with 5 course tasting menu, and wine pairings, Euro 145, more expensive than what you might usually spend on a vacation meal, but a good deal compared to what we would pay for the same at home.
http://www.borgiadelcasale.it/eng-regina-lucia-home
Foods we really enjoyed in Sicily:
Of course, everything is based on what grows, what is fresh, what’s in season.
Outstanding seafood; sea bass, octopus, tuna, gamberone-large prawns, calamari, sardines and anchovies, eel.
The flavorings: orange, lemons, capers, olives, almonds and pistachios, and of course, fresh and sundried tomatoes, eggplant, wild oregano, pepperoncino, thyme, fennel, red onions from Tropea.
Specialties of Sicily:
https://www.walksofitaly.com/blog/si...nnoli-arancini
Have to say, I don’t care for the large arancini, it’s just too much, and cannoli is just okay. We enjoyed the tuna and octopus especially, the caponata is very good, and we ate quite a lot of Granita!! Very refreshing!
From our first trip to Europe until the present, our eating habits have changed quite a bit. It’s been a kind of ‘learn as you go’ experience.
From “Euro a slice” pizza on our first trip, to our first Michelin star restaurant on this trip, food has taken on a more important role in our travels. I find that the more one learns about the places being visited, the more appreciation there is for the cuisine and how it developed.
We’re not food snobs, we enjoy pizza (hard to get a bad one) and the home-cooked style food of the trattoria and osteria, which, in my opinion, represent the true cuisine of the region, and picnics from goodies gleaned at markets.
Like a lot of first-time European travellers, though, we initially just looked for somewhere to eat close by to where ever we happened to be, somewhere clean and where the food looked appetizing. We had a lot of bad meals using that strategy, and spent much time wandering around looking for a decent restaurant.
Now, I research restaurants, pinpoint ones we definitely want to try, and use google maps to ‘favorite’ other interesting choices. Then, when I look at my iPad map, I can see what starred choices are close to our present location. Thank you to someone on Fodor’s for that tip!
So, Regina Lucia was a planned splurge. We dressed up and off we went. The restaurant, in the beautiful Palazzo Borgia del Casale, is modern formal in décor. Here is my tripadvisor review with pics:
https://www.tripadvisor.ca/Restauran...y.html#REVIEWS
This place is definitely worth the splurge. Complete with 5 course tasting menu, and wine pairings, Euro 145, more expensive than what you might usually spend on a vacation meal, but a good deal compared to what we would pay for the same at home.
http://www.borgiadelcasale.it/eng-regina-lucia-home
Foods we really enjoyed in Sicily:
Of course, everything is based on what grows, what is fresh, what’s in season.
Outstanding seafood; sea bass, octopus, tuna, gamberone-large prawns, calamari, sardines and anchovies, eel.
The flavorings: orange, lemons, capers, olives, almonds and pistachios, and of course, fresh and sundried tomatoes, eggplant, wild oregano, pepperoncino, thyme, fennel, red onions from Tropea.
Specialties of Sicily:
https://www.walksofitaly.com/blog/si...nnoli-arancini
Have to say, I don’t care for the large arancini, it’s just too much, and cannoli is just okay. We enjoyed the tuna and octopus especially, the caponata is very good, and we ate quite a lot of Granita!! Very refreshing!
Feb 9th, 2017 | 05:33 AM
#69
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
sundried - we didn't eat anywhere as high end as Regina Lucia but we still had some standout meals, often in the simplest places. For me the mixed seafood antipasti that we had in several places and a spaghetti with butternut squash and ricotta in a restaurant in Ragusa stand out but overall the freshness and quality of the ingredients were what really impressed us.
Feb 9th, 2017 | 08:44 AM
#70
Original Poster
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
Annhig, yes, I agree, I don't think we've had a bad meal in Sicily, except for that one pizza mentioned above. And except for our splurges, prices are extremely reasonable.
I think my favorite thing about Sicily is that it's not so crowded, many places feel very authentic, not touristy, and reasonably priced.
We never tried pasta with butternut squash and ricotta, but I have a recipe for it, which also includes a couple of slices of chopped crisped up pancetta and a couple of leaves of kale, chopped and wilted , adds a nice color contrast. Sounds like supper tonight!
I think my favorite thing about Sicily is that it's not so crowded, many places feel very authentic, not touristy, and reasonably priced.
We never tried pasta with butternut squash and ricotta, but I have a recipe for it, which also includes a couple of slices of chopped crisped up pancetta and a couple of leaves of kale, chopped and wilted , adds a nice color contrast. Sounds like supper tonight!
Feb 9th, 2017 | 08:55 AM
#71
Original Poster
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
Last Installment!
One last day in Ortigia!
A day trip to Noto and along the coast seems in order. It’s only a half hour drive from Siracusa.
Noto was not too crowded, and we were able to walk the Corso Vittorio Emanuele at a leisurely pace. The Corso is lined with beautiful baroque churches and palazzi, each one very different from the next, and easy to visit because they are concentrated in one area.
At the end of May, Noto celebrates the marvels of Spring and the coming summer with a colourful "Festa" known as the "Infiorita". Modica also has this festival, which sees flower artists create the most beautiful mosaics using petals on a designated street.
http://www.thethinkingtraveller.com/...cily/noto.aspx
In the afternoon, we want to venture into the Vendicari Reserve, but first, lunchtime.
It’s about a 45 minute drive down through fields and greenhouses to Pachino and on to Portopallo. This is a really pretty place, and the drive back up to Marzamemi was a stop and go affair, due to my many photo ops. It’s a very nice drive.
Marzamemi is a picture perfect fishing town, which has been spiffed up for tourists (and tours) but was pretty quiet in May. Our friends at Henry’s House had told us to check it out and have lunch at one of the outdoor restaurants here.
We chose the one which had a covered terrace upstairs, and a view over the water, and settled in for a nice lunch.
Our host made some recommendations, which we took, and with some white wine, had one of the most relaxing and delicious meals of our trip. DH’s secondi of seared tuna was amazing, and had huge portions. We shared the octopus appetizer, and I had spaghetti con ricci, sea urchin. With a bottle of good white wine Euro 79. And we didn’t need dinner.
http://www.principinomarzamemi.it/terrazza.html
At one of the shops here, I bought a jar of botarga to bring home, along with some artigianale ancient grain pasta. It was so good, I wish I had brought a suitcase for food purchases. Hmmm might have had a problem at customs, though…lol, fish eggs and unpasteurized honey…
The highway takes you back to Vendicari, about 15-20 minutes, take the exit that shows the tonnara, as there is a parking lot, the entrance, and a short walk along a raised path out to the beach, and the old tonnara.
This park is famous as a bird sanctuary, a natural marshland area with some beautiful beaches. If you are a nature lover or beach goer, and want to check it out:
http://www.vendicari.net/vendicari-reserve-sicily/
We tore ourselves away from Siracusa next day.
The drive to the Catania airport took about an hour, check in for our rental car was easy, and the airport is fairly small and easily navigable.
We got charged Euro 95 for our bags because I got incorrect information from Expedia. It showed that we each were able to check one bag. Oh well, the fare was extremely cheap. Next time…
Soon, we were on an Alitalia flight, waving good-bye to Mt. Etna.
I sat beside an interesting young woman who works in the refugee program in Sicily. We had an enlightening conversation about the process the refugees must go through when they land in Sicily. She worked as a nurse, and her job involved checking refugees for a whole batch of illnesses, in short, their physical condition.
She said she cries every day to see what some have gone through, but feels good that she is able to help.
Soon we landed in Rome for a 2 nighter, before returning home through London. I will not bore you with the Rome visit, has been done better many many times.
Thanks for visiting Italy with us, thanks for all the comments,and I hope some of my comments and logistics have been helpful to a few.
annhig, you're a trooper to have followed the whole thing!!
Photos to follow.
One last day in Ortigia!
A day trip to Noto and along the coast seems in order. It’s only a half hour drive from Siracusa.
Noto was not too crowded, and we were able to walk the Corso Vittorio Emanuele at a leisurely pace. The Corso is lined with beautiful baroque churches and palazzi, each one very different from the next, and easy to visit because they are concentrated in one area.
At the end of May, Noto celebrates the marvels of Spring and the coming summer with a colourful "Festa" known as the "Infiorita". Modica also has this festival, which sees flower artists create the most beautiful mosaics using petals on a designated street.
http://www.thethinkingtraveller.com/...cily/noto.aspx
In the afternoon, we want to venture into the Vendicari Reserve, but first, lunchtime.
It’s about a 45 minute drive down through fields and greenhouses to Pachino and on to Portopallo. This is a really pretty place, and the drive back up to Marzamemi was a stop and go affair, due to my many photo ops. It’s a very nice drive.
Marzamemi is a picture perfect fishing town, which has been spiffed up for tourists (and tours) but was pretty quiet in May. Our friends at Henry’s House had told us to check it out and have lunch at one of the outdoor restaurants here.
We chose the one which had a covered terrace upstairs, and a view over the water, and settled in for a nice lunch.
Our host made some recommendations, which we took, and with some white wine, had one of the most relaxing and delicious meals of our trip. DH’s secondi of seared tuna was amazing, and had huge portions. We shared the octopus appetizer, and I had spaghetti con ricci, sea urchin. With a bottle of good white wine Euro 79. And we didn’t need dinner.
http://www.principinomarzamemi.it/terrazza.html
At one of the shops here, I bought a jar of botarga to bring home, along with some artigianale ancient grain pasta. It was so good, I wish I had brought a suitcase for food purchases. Hmmm might have had a problem at customs, though…lol, fish eggs and unpasteurized honey…
The highway takes you back to Vendicari, about 15-20 minutes, take the exit that shows the tonnara, as there is a parking lot, the entrance, and a short walk along a raised path out to the beach, and the old tonnara.
This park is famous as a bird sanctuary, a natural marshland area with some beautiful beaches. If you are a nature lover or beach goer, and want to check it out:
http://www.vendicari.net/vendicari-reserve-sicily/
We tore ourselves away from Siracusa next day.
The drive to the Catania airport took about an hour, check in for our rental car was easy, and the airport is fairly small and easily navigable.
We got charged Euro 95 for our bags because I got incorrect information from Expedia. It showed that we each were able to check one bag. Oh well, the fare was extremely cheap. Next time…
Soon, we were on an Alitalia flight, waving good-bye to Mt. Etna.
I sat beside an interesting young woman who works in the refugee program in Sicily. We had an enlightening conversation about the process the refugees must go through when they land in Sicily. She worked as a nurse, and her job involved checking refugees for a whole batch of illnesses, in short, their physical condition.
She said she cries every day to see what some have gone through, but feels good that she is able to help.
Soon we landed in Rome for a 2 nighter, before returning home through London. I will not bore you with the Rome visit, has been done better many many times.
Thanks for visiting Italy with us, thanks for all the comments,and I hope some of my comments and logistics have been helpful to a few.
annhig, you're a trooper to have followed the whole thing!!
Photos to follow.
Feb 9th, 2017 | 10:06 AM
#72
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
We never tried pasta with butternut squash and ricotta, but I have a recipe for it, which also includes a couple of slices of chopped crisped up pancetta and a couple of leaves of kale, chopped and wilted , adds a nice color contrast. Sounds like supper tonight!>>
it didn't even have the bacon and kale in it, sundried, but it was one of the most delicious things I've ever tasted. Not sure that it needed any improvement and though it was simple, I've not tried to reproduce it because I think I'd be too disappointed.
I'm sorry that we never made it to Noto but we were fully occupied in the time we spent in Ortigia and Siracusa; in retrospect we should have gone there as well as Ragusa, rather than Taormina. There is still so much to see in that area and should we get back to Sicily, I'd like to spend a lot longer in the east. And a lot of time in the West. And the north sounds pretty good too.
Mmm- sounds like we need 3-4 weeks!
it didn't even have the bacon and kale in it, sundried, but it was one of the most delicious things I've ever tasted. Not sure that it needed any improvement and though it was simple, I've not tried to reproduce it because I think I'd be too disappointed.
I'm sorry that we never made it to Noto but we were fully occupied in the time we spent in Ortigia and Siracusa; in retrospect we should have gone there as well as Ragusa, rather than Taormina. There is still so much to see in that area and should we get back to Sicily, I'd like to spend a lot longer in the east. And a lot of time in the West. And the north sounds pretty good too.
Mmm- sounds like we need 3-4 weeks!
Feb 9th, 2017 | 11:20 AM
#74
Original Poster
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
I would really like to spend 3 months! Ah but there's still so much world to see...
Here's my photos of Syracuse and surrounds:
https://flic.kr/s/aHskNJvNdk
And here are links to the others from this TR, all in one place:
Modica
https://www.flickr.com/gp/pi_not_me/815N51
Agrigento
https://www.flickr.com/gp/pi_not_me/3zR8N9
Taormina
https://www.flickr.com/gp/pi_not_me/7N4p0C
Tuscany and Amalfi Coast
https://www.flickr.com/gp/pi_not_me/3d7t3u
Here's my photos of Syracuse and surrounds:
https://flic.kr/s/aHskNJvNdk
And here are links to the others from this TR, all in one place:
Modica
https://www.flickr.com/gp/pi_not_me/815N51
Agrigento
https://www.flickr.com/gp/pi_not_me/3zR8N9
Taormina
https://www.flickr.com/gp/pi_not_me/7N4p0C
Tuscany and Amalfi Coast
https://www.flickr.com/gp/pi_not_me/3d7t3u
Feb 9th, 2017 | 04:15 PM
#75
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,754
Likes: 0
Very much enjoyed the TR Sundried. It was excellent and so descriptive of your trip. I think Ortigia is definitely a place I would return to if I get the chance. There is so much to see and do there. I only managed to get to my top priorities even with 3 days. Happy to hear you made it to Vendicari. I lugged a pair of binoculars just for the wild flamingos. There werent many but it was fun to see wild ones. I thought the beaches looked very inviting at the preservE. Never enough time!
Feb 11th, 2017 | 02:39 PM
#77
Original Poster
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
Thank you Dayle, I would really like to make it to the Aeolian Islands next time we go, I think you have been?
annhig, we never got to read the end of your story...Did you have any favorite towns or sights? We were told by locals that Ragusa is the preferred baroque town, but in two visits to Sicily, we still haven't seen it.
annhig, we never got to read the end of your story...Did you have any favorite towns or sights? We were told by locals that Ragusa is the preferred baroque town, but in two visits to Sicily, we still haven't seen it.
Feb 12th, 2017 | 02:05 PM
#80
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
annhig, we never got to read the end of your story...Did you have any favorite towns or sights? We were told by locals that Ragusa is the preferred baroque town, but in two visits to Sicily, we still haven't seen it.>>
Sundried - my TR just got to the Villa Casale i think - or did I post my impressions of it somewhere else with the intention of transferring it to myTR?
Anyway, that was definitely one of the highlights for us, as was Ragusa, though navigating up to our B&B in the car rather took the gilt off the gingerbread. We never made it to Noto, and we found Modica very difficult to negotiate too, so we hightailed it to Scicli which we liked a lot. Caltigirone, while we only spent half a day there was fun, and I'd like to spend more time on and around Etna.
However I suppose that top of our pops was Ortigia, which we loved and bottom of the list was Taormina which was just too busy to be comfortable.
How does that match up with your list of likes/dislikes?
Sundried - my TR just got to the Villa Casale i think - or did I post my impressions of it somewhere else with the intention of transferring it to myTR?
Anyway, that was definitely one of the highlights for us, as was Ragusa, though navigating up to our B&B in the car rather took the gilt off the gingerbread. We never made it to Noto, and we found Modica very difficult to negotiate too, so we hightailed it to Scicli which we liked a lot. Caltigirone, while we only spent half a day there was fun, and I'd like to spend more time on and around Etna.
However I suppose that top of our pops was Ortigia, which we loved and bottom of the list was Taormina which was just too busy to be comfortable.
How does that match up with your list of likes/dislikes?
