Our Sensational September Trip to Germany & Austria
Oct 6th, 2009, 05:56 AM
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MITTENWALD (2 nights): It was about a 3 hour drive to Mittenwald. We traveled along the Bodensee thru Friedrichshafen toward Lindau and then we headed into Austria towards Innsbruck. The scenery was starting to get dramatic. The landscape is so green and lush with those high stoney mountain peaks that you see in the Austrian Alps. Another thing about Austria – tunnels! We must have gone thru a dozen tunnels -- some long, some short -- in the few hours it took us to get here. We also went thru a little rain, but saw some blue sky peeking through too.
We checked into the 4* Hotel Rieger (116E) and were given a large double room with a balcony overlooking the Karwendel mountain. Of course, today the top of the mountain is covered in clouds. The Hotel Rieger is just steps from the main street in Mittenwald, the Obermarkt.
http://www.hotel-rieger.de/hotel.htm
Mittenwald is famous for its Luftmalerei (literally ‘air paintings’), a local Bavarian version of trompe l’oeil painting which became popular in the 18th century. We walked along Obermarkt to the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, a stunning building with a beautifully painted tower. Every building we passed had some type of lovely painting on it. It was just one of those times when your jaw drops in awe.
In front of the Church is a statue of Mathias Klotz, who introduced violin making to Mittenwald in 1684. The town is a major center for this highly specialized craft and there is a Violin Museum just behind the Church as well as a 15+ ft high Violin “monument” carved from a single large piece of wood.
Later we had a wonderful dinner at our hotel.
The next day we awoke to rain. Hopefully, it will clear a little later. We had breakfast and came back up to the room to get our coats and umbrellas. Walked along Obermarkt where I bought a couple of post cards and lace for a kitchen curtain. The weather just got worse so we stayed in the room most of the afternoon. A little past 6 PM, we walked to the Osteria Italian Restaurant on Obermarkt for dinner and I finally had my first Apfel Strudel with vanilla ice cream for dessert. Everything was good.
Tomorrow we head to Zell am See. The weather here is suppose to clear up – of course, now that we are leaving! But David felt like he got some good pictures the first day we were here so he’s not too disappointed. I hope the weather in Zell is decent.
We checked into the 4* Hotel Rieger (116E) and were given a large double room with a balcony overlooking the Karwendel mountain. Of course, today the top of the mountain is covered in clouds. The Hotel Rieger is just steps from the main street in Mittenwald, the Obermarkt.
http://www.hotel-rieger.de/hotel.htm
Mittenwald is famous for its Luftmalerei (literally ‘air paintings’), a local Bavarian version of trompe l’oeil painting which became popular in the 18th century. We walked along Obermarkt to the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, a stunning building with a beautifully painted tower. Every building we passed had some type of lovely painting on it. It was just one of those times when your jaw drops in awe.
In front of the Church is a statue of Mathias Klotz, who introduced violin making to Mittenwald in 1684. The town is a major center for this highly specialized craft and there is a Violin Museum just behind the Church as well as a 15+ ft high Violin “monument” carved from a single large piece of wood.
Later we had a wonderful dinner at our hotel.
The next day we awoke to rain. Hopefully, it will clear a little later. We had breakfast and came back up to the room to get our coats and umbrellas. Walked along Obermarkt where I bought a couple of post cards and lace for a kitchen curtain. The weather just got worse so we stayed in the room most of the afternoon. A little past 6 PM, we walked to the Osteria Italian Restaurant on Obermarkt for dinner and I finally had my first Apfel Strudel with vanilla ice cream for dessert. Everything was good.
Tomorrow we head to Zell am See. The weather here is suppose to clear up – of course, now that we are leaving! But David felt like he got some good pictures the first day we were here so he’s not too disappointed. I hope the weather in Zell is decent.
Oct 6th, 2009, 02:09 PM
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ZELL AM SEE (3 nights): Today we awoke to sunshine and blue skies. We can actually see the top of the Karwendal Mtn. It’s quite windy and cool however. After breakfast, we check out of the hotel but decide to take advantage of the sunshine and walk down Obermarkt toward the Church for a few more photos.
We hit the road around 10:30 for Zell am See. Once we get on the other side of Innsbruck, past Hall in Tirol, I recognize the town name of Rattenburg on the map. I had done some research on Rattenburg when we were planning our trip to Achensee a couple of years ago. It looked like a beautiful little town for a day trip but we never got the chance to go there. We have some time to kill so we decide to stop. Rattenburg is called the smallest “town” in Austria and it is charming. Located on the Inn River, it is known for its hand blown glass and there are glass shops everywhere. We stopped for a hot chocolate, walked around a little more and then decided we’d better make our way to Zell.
The countryside here is typically alpine – lush and green with chalet style houses and overflowing flower boxes. Everything looks so clean too. Even the fields look like they have been mowed.
Finally we arrive at the Hotel Eder, our home for the next 3 nights. The hotel is just a few blocks from the Zellersee and practically across the street from the TI office. This is a family owned hotel and we are welcomed by Victoria Eder who speaks excellent English. There is free parking right in front of the hotel which is very convenient. Our room is light and spacious with a balcony (84E).
http://www.parkhotel-eder.at/en/index.html
We settle in and then make our way to the lake. As you look out over the water towards the Grossglockner, the view is breathtaking. There are many flowers along the Seepromenade and lots of benches for sitting and absorbing the gorgeousness of it all. We made our way to the Grand Hotel, which is indeed grand. Going up the wide white staircase from their outdoor Café, the views over the lake are to die for. We are so lucky because the weather is warm and sunny today. There is a small park on the other side of the Grand Hotel where we sit and stare at the mountains and feed the ducks. What a life!
The next morning we had a treat -- scrambled eggs and bacon! The weather isn’t as nice as yesterday. It’s cloudy but still a little blue sky peeking through. After breakfast, we walked a few blocks from our hotel to the 12th century Catholic Pfarrkirche, along the lake promenade and back to the park. The view over the lake and the mountains is just so beautiful. We walked past many nice shops and restaurants in the pedestrian zone that lead us to the Marktplatz and eventually back to our hotel for the evening.
Drove over to Kitzbühl the the next morning. We could only find a 30 minute parking spot near the Rathaus so we got out and walked around, quickly taking a few photos of the many colorful buildings before our time was up. It's a very busy place. You can tell that this is a popular (and expensive) resort by the high end shops and just the feel of the place.
We returned to Zell and since it was our last day here and the weather was so pleasant, we rented an electric boat. I started throwing bread to a few of the ducks in the lake and caught the attention of a lone swan a short distance away. He began to follow us and would swim up right next to me in the boat like he was ready to jump in! Nice way to end our time in Zell.
We hit the road around 10:30 for Zell am See. Once we get on the other side of Innsbruck, past Hall in Tirol, I recognize the town name of Rattenburg on the map. I had done some research on Rattenburg when we were planning our trip to Achensee a couple of years ago. It looked like a beautiful little town for a day trip but we never got the chance to go there. We have some time to kill so we decide to stop. Rattenburg is called the smallest “town” in Austria and it is charming. Located on the Inn River, it is known for its hand blown glass and there are glass shops everywhere. We stopped for a hot chocolate, walked around a little more and then decided we’d better make our way to Zell.
The countryside here is typically alpine – lush and green with chalet style houses and overflowing flower boxes. Everything looks so clean too. Even the fields look like they have been mowed.
Finally we arrive at the Hotel Eder, our home for the next 3 nights. The hotel is just a few blocks from the Zellersee and practically across the street from the TI office. This is a family owned hotel and we are welcomed by Victoria Eder who speaks excellent English. There is free parking right in front of the hotel which is very convenient. Our room is light and spacious with a balcony (84E).
http://www.parkhotel-eder.at/en/index.html
We settle in and then make our way to the lake. As you look out over the water towards the Grossglockner, the view is breathtaking. There are many flowers along the Seepromenade and lots of benches for sitting and absorbing the gorgeousness of it all. We made our way to the Grand Hotel, which is indeed grand. Going up the wide white staircase from their outdoor Café, the views over the lake are to die for. We are so lucky because the weather is warm and sunny today. There is a small park on the other side of the Grand Hotel where we sit and stare at the mountains and feed the ducks. What a life!
The next morning we had a treat -- scrambled eggs and bacon! The weather isn’t as nice as yesterday. It’s cloudy but still a little blue sky peeking through. After breakfast, we walked a few blocks from our hotel to the 12th century Catholic Pfarrkirche, along the lake promenade and back to the park. The view over the lake and the mountains is just so beautiful. We walked past many nice shops and restaurants in the pedestrian zone that lead us to the Marktplatz and eventually back to our hotel for the evening.
Drove over to Kitzbühl the the next morning. We could only find a 30 minute parking spot near the Rathaus so we got out and walked around, quickly taking a few photos of the many colorful buildings before our time was up. It's a very busy place. You can tell that this is a popular (and expensive) resort by the high end shops and just the feel of the place.
We returned to Zell and since it was our last day here and the weather was so pleasant, we rented an electric boat. I started throwing bread to a few of the ducks in the lake and caught the attention of a lone swan a short distance away. He began to follow us and would swim up right next to me in the boat like he was ready to jump in! Nice way to end our time in Zell.
Oct 6th, 2009, 02:19 PM
#25
>>>I can't imagine why it would have been a target.<<<
The British and American Forces had called it "area bombing" or "moral bombing". Churchill wrote that he had ordered the bombing of German cities "simply for the sake of increasing the terror" (on 28 March 1945 in a memo for the British Chiefs of Staff and the Chief of the Air Staff). The bombings were targeted at civilian population to undermine the morale of the enemy.
traveller - BBC2 showed a programme tonight about the bombing of Coventry, which was the first target during WW2 for this type of carpet bombing, due to its prominence in munitions and aircraft manufacture. the allied bombing of targets such as Staufen came after this. I have a particular interest as I was born and raised in Coventry and grew up with tales of that awful night.
i have no doubt that it was equally awful for the unfortunate citizens of staufen.
Betty - what a lovely trip. we spent an hour or so in Zell, but guess what? it was raining so we didn't get to see many of its beauties.
The British and American Forces had called it "area bombing" or "moral bombing". Churchill wrote that he had ordered the bombing of German cities "simply for the sake of increasing the terror" (on 28 March 1945 in a memo for the British Chiefs of Staff and the Chief of the Air Staff). The bombings were targeted at civilian population to undermine the morale of the enemy.
traveller - BBC2 showed a programme tonight about the bombing of Coventry, which was the first target during WW2 for this type of carpet bombing, due to its prominence in munitions and aircraft manufacture. the allied bombing of targets such as Staufen came after this. I have a particular interest as I was born and raised in Coventry and grew up with tales of that awful night.
i have no doubt that it was equally awful for the unfortunate citizens of staufen.
Betty - what a lovely trip. we spent an hour or so in Zell, but guess what? it was raining so we didn't get to see many of its beauties.
Oct 6th, 2009, 03:34 PM
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Paul, we certainly can't complain about the weather. We only had rain in Mittenwald on that one day but it was nice the day before and the morning after.
Both Zell and Mittenwald were definite winners.
Both Zell and Mittenwald were definite winners.
Oct 6th, 2009, 03:59 PM
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Hi Betty,
What a great trip report, and I've gone into most of the links you provide, too! You paint a lovely picture of these unique towns, and I look forward to future installments. Like others, I also eagerly await those photos, but I certainly understand what a daunting task it is to process them.
Susan
What a great trip report, and I've gone into most of the links you provide, too! You paint a lovely picture of these unique towns, and I look forward to future installments. Like others, I also eagerly await those photos, but I certainly understand what a daunting task it is to process them.
Susan
Oct 6th, 2009, 04:23 PM
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I love that area but haven't been to Zell am See or Mittenwald. I'll have to add them to my must-see-before-I-get-too-old-to-travel list. You're describing them in such a way as to make them irresistible.
In Staufen, did anyone point out to you the mural on the side of a hotel (I forget the name) from which the devil is supposed to have taken Faust to hell. I think the room is number 15.
In Staufen, did anyone point out to you the mural on the side of a hotel (I forget the name) from which the devil is supposed to have taken Faust to hell. I think the room is number 15.
Oct 6th, 2009, 04:30 PM
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Thanks, Susan. David's whittled the photos down to a little over 300 and should be close to uploading them on the internet.
Peg, it's the Hotel zum Loewen and it was just a few steps from our hotel.
Peg, it's the Hotel zum Loewen and it was just a few steps from our hotel.
Oct 6th, 2009, 08:15 PM
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Betty, Thanks so much for this enjoyable read. Sounds like you had a great time. Germany is a great place no matter the weather but I'm glad you were fortunate this time.
Now, I'm yearning to go back and I'm really looking forward to the photos.
Now, I'm yearning to go back and I'm really looking forward to the photos.
Oct 7th, 2009, 06:57 AM
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Thanks, LSky.
ST. GILGEN (3 nights): It wasn’t a long drive to St. Gilgen, only about 2 hrs through some lovely countryside. September seems to be a good time to travel in this area as it’s not as crowded, the weather is mostly warm, and many of the fall festivities have started. When we arrived at the Hotel Schernthaner (78E), the owner, Frau Eisl, helped me with the suitcases while David parked the car. Our room was on the 3rd floor and had a balcony with a lovely view to the lake. The Schernthaner is a well maintained, family owned hotel with many of the little touches that make a hotel stay memorable. Frau Eisl is the kind of owner who takes much pride in her little “haus” and treats everyone like an old friend.
http://www.hotel-schernthaner.at/sei...sh/index_e.htm
We had lunch at the Café Stern around the corner from the hotel and then walked down to the lake, stopping at a few of the souvenir shops along the way. We got an ice cream cone and found a bench in front of the lake. It’s a beautiful day, very warm, with a nice blue sky.
The next day, we drove to Bad Ischl to meet our friend, Liselotte, who had taken the train from Vienna. We decided to walk over to the Café Zauner for a late lunch. We had a nice, leisurely meal then coffee and strudel. There was a lovely older couple sitting next to us from Attersee who we started talking to. They gave us directions to the Kaiservilla, a summer home of Emperor Franz Josef and one of the reasons that Bad Ischl is so well known. Since the interior of the Villa closes at 5 PM and it was already after 4 PM, we decided to just walk around the park.
http://www.zauner.at/rtc-zauner/115?sL=EN
http://www.kaiservilla.at/
When we returned to the Bahnhof carpark, we heard music and saw a parade of locals dressed in traditional costumes. Lise asked what the parade was about and was told it was a celebration for the people who died during WW2. Since this is the 70th anniversary of the start of the war in Europe, we assume there are probably a lot of these activities scheduled this year.
Later in St. Gilgen, we walked over to the Fischer Wirt restaurant for a light dinner. There had been a couple of weddings in St. Gilgen’s lovely church today and one of the receptions was being held at the Fischer Wirt. All the guests were dressed in the traditional lederhosen and dirndls and seemed to be having a very good time.
The next day we drove to Salzburg to do some sightseeing, have lunch and then take our friend to the Bahnhof for her train back to Vienna. We set the GPS for the Mirabell Garden Parking Garage and off we went. It was still early, maybe 10:30 AM, and since it was Sunday, there was no traffic to speak of. The skies were hazy so it wasn’t best for photos, but the garden was lovely.
We walked down Getreidegasse then continued walking toward the Mönchsberg. We took the elevator inside the Mönchsberg to the top where there is a restaurant, a modern art museum and lovely views across the city of Salzburg. We have only ever seen Salzburg from the Hohensalzburg Fortress so this would provide a different perspective. We walked back down to the old town and there were many more people milling around than when we arrived. I'm glad we came early.
We dropped our friend off around 3 PM and then headed to Mondsee. It is only about 20 minutes from Salzburg on the A1. Once we arrived in Mondsee, it was very crowded and we could not find a place to park. We made our way to the lake where we found a parking place and walked around for a bit. I was too tired and my knee hurt too much to walk over to the church, so we decided to head back to St. Gilgen. Tomorrow we have a long drive to Bamberg.
ST. GILGEN (3 nights): It wasn’t a long drive to St. Gilgen, only about 2 hrs through some lovely countryside. September seems to be a good time to travel in this area as it’s not as crowded, the weather is mostly warm, and many of the fall festivities have started. When we arrived at the Hotel Schernthaner (78E), the owner, Frau Eisl, helped me with the suitcases while David parked the car. Our room was on the 3rd floor and had a balcony with a lovely view to the lake. The Schernthaner is a well maintained, family owned hotel with many of the little touches that make a hotel stay memorable. Frau Eisl is the kind of owner who takes much pride in her little “haus” and treats everyone like an old friend.
http://www.hotel-schernthaner.at/sei...sh/index_e.htm
We had lunch at the Café Stern around the corner from the hotel and then walked down to the lake, stopping at a few of the souvenir shops along the way. We got an ice cream cone and found a bench in front of the lake. It’s a beautiful day, very warm, with a nice blue sky.
The next day, we drove to Bad Ischl to meet our friend, Liselotte, who had taken the train from Vienna. We decided to walk over to the Café Zauner for a late lunch. We had a nice, leisurely meal then coffee and strudel. There was a lovely older couple sitting next to us from Attersee who we started talking to. They gave us directions to the Kaiservilla, a summer home of Emperor Franz Josef and one of the reasons that Bad Ischl is so well known. Since the interior of the Villa closes at 5 PM and it was already after 4 PM, we decided to just walk around the park.
http://www.zauner.at/rtc-zauner/115?sL=EN
http://www.kaiservilla.at/
When we returned to the Bahnhof carpark, we heard music and saw a parade of locals dressed in traditional costumes. Lise asked what the parade was about and was told it was a celebration for the people who died during WW2. Since this is the 70th anniversary of the start of the war in Europe, we assume there are probably a lot of these activities scheduled this year.
Later in St. Gilgen, we walked over to the Fischer Wirt restaurant for a light dinner. There had been a couple of weddings in St. Gilgen’s lovely church today and one of the receptions was being held at the Fischer Wirt. All the guests were dressed in the traditional lederhosen and dirndls and seemed to be having a very good time.
The next day we drove to Salzburg to do some sightseeing, have lunch and then take our friend to the Bahnhof for her train back to Vienna. We set the GPS for the Mirabell Garden Parking Garage and off we went. It was still early, maybe 10:30 AM, and since it was Sunday, there was no traffic to speak of. The skies were hazy so it wasn’t best for photos, but the garden was lovely.
We walked down Getreidegasse then continued walking toward the Mönchsberg. We took the elevator inside the Mönchsberg to the top where there is a restaurant, a modern art museum and lovely views across the city of Salzburg. We have only ever seen Salzburg from the Hohensalzburg Fortress so this would provide a different perspective. We walked back down to the old town and there were many more people milling around than when we arrived. I'm glad we came early.
We dropped our friend off around 3 PM and then headed to Mondsee. It is only about 20 minutes from Salzburg on the A1. Once we arrived in Mondsee, it was very crowded and we could not find a place to park. We made our way to the lake where we found a parking place and walked around for a bit. I was too tired and my knee hurt too much to walk over to the church, so we decided to head back to St. Gilgen. Tomorrow we have a long drive to Bamberg.
Oct 7th, 2009, 08:58 AM
#34
ah, so many memories. some of them happy.
we did hit the odd day when it didn't rain while we stayed in St. Wolfgang, and the day we went to St. Gilgen was one of them. we did the Pilgerweg walk back, by the end of which it miht as well have been raining as the sun was so hot I was wet through!
it rained again at night though.
keep it coming, betty.
regards, ann
we did hit the odd day when it didn't rain while we stayed in St. Wolfgang, and the day we went to St. Gilgen was one of them. we did the Pilgerweg walk back, by the end of which it miht as well have been raining as the sun was so hot I was wet through!
it rained again at night though.
keep it coming, betty.
regards, ann
Oct 7th, 2009, 09:06 AM
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Annhig, just for historical correctness:
The area bombing was begun by the Royal Air Force on 12 May 1940 with an air raid on Mönchengladbach, followed by 8 raids on Berlin. The first German air raid on a British target was on 7 September 1940 (London) and the second on Coventry on 15 November.
The area bombing was begun by the Royal Air Force on 12 May 1940 with an air raid on Mönchengladbach, followed by 8 raids on Berlin. The first German air raid on a British target was on 7 September 1940 (London) and the second on Coventry on 15 November.
Oct 7th, 2009, 11:09 AM
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BAMBERG (3 nights): Looks like it is going to be another warm and sunny day on Wolfgangsee and we are sorry to leave. After a few traffic snags on the Autobahn, we arrived in Bamberg mid afternoon and made our way to the Hotel Molitor (89E plus parking) with the help of our GPS but I don’t think it would have been easy at all without it. Our small hotel is located on Obere Muhlstrasse by the Klosterbräu Brewery and next to the St. Nepomuk Hotel. Our room was spacious and clean and the staff was very accommodating and helpful.
http://www.altstadthotel-molitor.de/index.php
Once we unloaded the car and parked in the hotel garage, we walked to the TI office and then to one of the most photographed landmarks in all of Bamberg, the Altes Rathaus, which sits in the middle of the River Regnitz, between the Obere and Untere Brucken. The oldest part of the Rathaus juts out perilously over the water's edge. The 15th century half-timbered building seems as if it is sitting almost in the river itself. The newer part of the Rathaus, built in the 18th century in a garish Baroque style, has colorful frescoes on the sides of the building, making this one of the most unusual and most picturesque town halls in all of Germany, if not Europe.
Bamberg is a place filled with picturesque corners, charming waterfront houses and narrow, winding streets, as well as magnificent churches whose spires cap the seven hills on which it is built.
We wandered around for a couple of hours when we started to run out of steam. Found ourselves at the Klosterbräu and decided to have an early dinner. Both of us are hurting from so much walking in Salzburg yesterday and decide to call it a day. We have internet in our room which is a treat so we will surf the net a bit tonight.
http://www.klosterbraeu.de/Bamberg/index_micro.htm
The next day after breakfast, we left the hotel and walked by the Böttinger House on Judenstrasse (completed in 1713), considered the most decorative of Bamberg’s bourgeois palaces. Next we arrived at the Bamberg Cathedral or Dom, one of the most impressive medieval buildings in Germany, which was consecrated in 1237. The Cathedral contains the tomb of Pope Clemens II, the only Pope buried in Germany, as well as the tombs of Emperor Henry II and his wife, Empress Kunigunde, created by the famous sculptor, Tilman Riemenschneider in 1513. The Bamberg Horseman or “Bamberger Reiter,” created by an unknown sculptor, is considered the most significant work of art in the Cathedral. There are many notable statues and a wooden altar carved by Veit Stoss. This is one of the most beautiful churches I have ever seen. I hope our photos give you some idea of how impressive it is.
Next to the Cathedral is the Old Imperial Court, which was the former palace of Emperor Henry II. The immense inner courtyard is surrounded by half-timbered buildings and the remains of the old Diet Hall, which was used as the seat of local government for over 500 years after 1085. One wing now houses the Historisches Museum. Across from the Dom is the New Residence of the Prince Bishop, a massive Baroque palace which was built in the 17th century. Makes you wonder why they needed all those rooms!
David stopped in the TI office to see if there was a vantage point from which to shoot pictures of Bamberg. They told him that we could go up into the Tower in Geyerswörth Castle right next to the TI office. The views from up there were stunning and we got some great photos.
We had a light lunch at the Brüdermühle Hotel and visited the Kathy Wolhfart shop where we bought a few gifts. It was a struggle to control myself as they have so many really cute Christmas items! We then walked over to the Grüner Markt, a large open square, dominated by the Baroque St. Martin's Church and the 17th-century Neptune Fountain. We went inside St. Martin’s Catholic Church, which was begun in 1686, and were again impressed by its Trompe-l'oeil paintings and high altar.
Since the food and beer were so good the day before, we again had dinner at the Klosterbräu.
The next day, we decided to stop into the large church we passed yesterday on our way to the Cathedral. This is the Obere Pfarrkirche or Upper Parish Church, considered by many to be Bamberg's finest Gothic structure. This is another absolutely beautiful church in a city full of beautiful churches. We then walked back over to the Domplatz to the Rose Garden behind the New Residence. The views from here look out over the city and up to St. Michael’s Abbey. The roses had mostly passed their best blooming but it was still nice to see all the sculptures and the amazing views.
From here, it was a short walk up to St. Jacob’s Church. The only (almost) completely Romanesque church in Bamberg is a pillared basilica from the 11th and 12th centuries. The Baroque façade was created in 1771. The interior was much more restrained, a very different style from the other churches we have seen here.
We stopped at the Hofbrau for lunch of Coq au Vin and potato soup. The chicken was very good but the potato soup was a little tasteless. We wandered back towards the bridge overlooking Little Venice, fed a few ducks and then made our way to our hotel.
Next stop -- Quedlinburg.
http://www.altstadthotel-molitor.de/index.php
Once we unloaded the car and parked in the hotel garage, we walked to the TI office and then to one of the most photographed landmarks in all of Bamberg, the Altes Rathaus, which sits in the middle of the River Regnitz, between the Obere and Untere Brucken. The oldest part of the Rathaus juts out perilously over the water's edge. The 15th century half-timbered building seems as if it is sitting almost in the river itself. The newer part of the Rathaus, built in the 18th century in a garish Baroque style, has colorful frescoes on the sides of the building, making this one of the most unusual and most picturesque town halls in all of Germany, if not Europe.
Bamberg is a place filled with picturesque corners, charming waterfront houses and narrow, winding streets, as well as magnificent churches whose spires cap the seven hills on which it is built.
We wandered around for a couple of hours when we started to run out of steam. Found ourselves at the Klosterbräu and decided to have an early dinner. Both of us are hurting from so much walking in Salzburg yesterday and decide to call it a day. We have internet in our room which is a treat so we will surf the net a bit tonight.
http://www.klosterbraeu.de/Bamberg/index_micro.htm
The next day after breakfast, we left the hotel and walked by the Böttinger House on Judenstrasse (completed in 1713), considered the most decorative of Bamberg’s bourgeois palaces. Next we arrived at the Bamberg Cathedral or Dom, one of the most impressive medieval buildings in Germany, which was consecrated in 1237. The Cathedral contains the tomb of Pope Clemens II, the only Pope buried in Germany, as well as the tombs of Emperor Henry II and his wife, Empress Kunigunde, created by the famous sculptor, Tilman Riemenschneider in 1513. The Bamberg Horseman or “Bamberger Reiter,” created by an unknown sculptor, is considered the most significant work of art in the Cathedral. There are many notable statues and a wooden altar carved by Veit Stoss. This is one of the most beautiful churches I have ever seen. I hope our photos give you some idea of how impressive it is.
Next to the Cathedral is the Old Imperial Court, which was the former palace of Emperor Henry II. The immense inner courtyard is surrounded by half-timbered buildings and the remains of the old Diet Hall, which was used as the seat of local government for over 500 years after 1085. One wing now houses the Historisches Museum. Across from the Dom is the New Residence of the Prince Bishop, a massive Baroque palace which was built in the 17th century. Makes you wonder why they needed all those rooms!
David stopped in the TI office to see if there was a vantage point from which to shoot pictures of Bamberg. They told him that we could go up into the Tower in Geyerswörth Castle right next to the TI office. The views from up there were stunning and we got some great photos.
We had a light lunch at the Brüdermühle Hotel and visited the Kathy Wolhfart shop where we bought a few gifts. It was a struggle to control myself as they have so many really cute Christmas items! We then walked over to the Grüner Markt, a large open square, dominated by the Baroque St. Martin's Church and the 17th-century Neptune Fountain. We went inside St. Martin’s Catholic Church, which was begun in 1686, and were again impressed by its Trompe-l'oeil paintings and high altar.
Since the food and beer were so good the day before, we again had dinner at the Klosterbräu.
The next day, we decided to stop into the large church we passed yesterday on our way to the Cathedral. This is the Obere Pfarrkirche or Upper Parish Church, considered by many to be Bamberg's finest Gothic structure. This is another absolutely beautiful church in a city full of beautiful churches. We then walked back over to the Domplatz to the Rose Garden behind the New Residence. The views from here look out over the city and up to St. Michael’s Abbey. The roses had mostly passed their best blooming but it was still nice to see all the sculptures and the amazing views.
From here, it was a short walk up to St. Jacob’s Church. The only (almost) completely Romanesque church in Bamberg is a pillared basilica from the 11th and 12th centuries. The Baroque façade was created in 1771. The interior was much more restrained, a very different style from the other churches we have seen here.
We stopped at the Hofbrau for lunch of Coq au Vin and potato soup. The chicken was very good but the potato soup was a little tasteless. We wandered back towards the bridge overlooking Little Venice, fed a few ducks and then made our way to our hotel.
Next stop -- Quedlinburg.
Oct 7th, 2009, 12:21 PM
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betty
I tremendously enjoy reading your trip report with all these bits and pieces and also the links provided!
Of course I knew Germany is a beautiful country and the Germans mostly are nice folks. But a German I have not as much experience as you travelling Germany.
Somehow one appreciates not really what one has got. Sadly true.
So I might most probably make use of some of the tips you posted. Thanks for that!
I am also very pleased to learn that you encountered many people who spoke at least a little English.
SV
I tremendously enjoy reading your trip report with all these bits and pieces and also the links provided!
Of course I knew Germany is a beautiful country and the Germans mostly are nice folks. But a German I have not as much experience as you travelling Germany.
Somehow one appreciates not really what one has got. Sadly true.
So I might most probably make use of some of the tips you posted. Thanks for that!
I am also very pleased to learn that you encountered many people who spoke at least a little English.
SV
Oct 7th, 2009, 02:34 PM
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spassvogel, I know what you mean. There is much of the US that I have not seen, even in my home state of Texas! I guess the saying "the grass is always greener..." is true.
We are finding that more and more people in Germany speak at least some English, especially those who come in direct contact with tourists. But it definitely helps if you know some German.
We are finding that more and more people in Germany speak at least some English, especially those who come in direct contact with tourists. But it definitely helps if you know some German.
