Our own country roads tour of France
Jun 26th, 2012, 07:41 AM
#22
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Coquelicot - The Commune du Patrimoine Rurale is just in Brittany. I believe different regions/departments may have various types of ranking systems and names. Here are a few weblinks for the various ranking systems:
Plus Beaux Villages:
http://www.les-plus-beaux-villages-de-france.org/en
Commune du ¨Patrimoine Rurale:
http://www.cprb.org/
Ville d'Art et d'Histoire:
http://www.vpah.culture.fr/
Villes et Villages Fleuris:
http://www.villes-et-villages-fleuris.com/
Petite Cité de Caractère:
http://pccfrance.canalblog.com/
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petites...caract%C3%A8re
Ville Historique:
http://www.milletapes.fr/patrimoine-...lle-historique
Plus Beaux Villages:
http://www.les-plus-beaux-villages-de-france.org/en
Commune du ¨Patrimoine Rurale:
http://www.cprb.org/
Ville d'Art et d'Histoire:
http://www.vpah.culture.fr/
Villes et Villages Fleuris:
http://www.villes-et-villages-fleuris.com/
Petite Cité de Caractère:
http://pccfrance.canalblog.com/
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petites...caract%C3%A8re
Ville Historique:
http://www.milletapes.fr/patrimoine-...lle-historique
Jun 26th, 2012, 12:04 PM
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My kind of trip! I taught myself how to do duck breast when we had the use of a friend's flat in St Cyprian la plage during the month of November 2010. And oh, the regional wines we had! It is a different view of life you get...markets frequented by locals (although there always are at least a handful of tourists), the grand family lunch "out" on Sundays...time to really learn from local museums and exhibits, and the extraordinarily beautiful countryside driving. PRICELESS!
I'm enjoying your report very much
I'm enjoying your report very much
Jun 26th, 2012, 08:39 PM
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Thank you everyone.
All too soon it was Saturday and we were off to the Haute Loire. Once again we drove along the Lot river and headed north. We had a picnic lunch in a very cold spot [Super Lioran] with a stunning outlook to snow capped mountains. After all, there is really no choice, is there between a green scenic road and a tunnel. In this obscure place we were amazed to meet another Australian couple.
Our rental this week was in the small village of St Beauzire near Brioude. It used to be the small epicerie in the heart of the village and has been cleverly renovated into a comfortable gite. It had a great wood fire which we put to good use in what was to be a very cold week. At about five on Saturday, a loud blast of a horn heralded the arrival of a boucherie van and the ladies of the village came. The same thing happened at nine the next morning, this time the baker [ with very good baguettes]. We loved this window into life in this small French village. Our first floor bedroom looked out to the church and each morning and night at seven, the bells rang for several minutes.
Sunday was very bleak. We did venture out for a short drive to Blesle [PBV] which, despite the nasty weather, was busy with people at the epicerie and charcuterie. Home to stoke up the fire and have a quiet afternoon. We did return to this charming village later in the week follwing a drive along the Allagnon river. Late in the afternoon there were some light flurries of snow. It was the perfect night for another favourite - Morteau sausage [from the Jura] cooked with a variety of vegetables.
We woke to find there had been a light fall of snow overnight. Quite exciting for us as we never see snow. We later drove up to Lavaudieu which is nicely positioned on the Allier river. We then drove up through the Livradois forest towards La Chaise Dieu. As we drove there was more and more snow. It was like driving through a Christmas card. The trees were like white lace and when we reached the town, it was buried in snow. It was quite magical. We left our footprints in the snow on the stairs up to the huge church. And inside a wonderful organ surrounded by sumptuous wood carvings. What a great afternoon. That night as our dinner baked, we sat in front of the fire with a glass of wine and listened to the bells ringing. We felt decidedly content.
Next day was another 'looked forward to' day out -a visit to Puy en Velay. We enjoyed wandering the steep, narrow streets and reaching the impressive cathedral. We stood at the top of the stairs as many before us and looked out into the distance. What did the pilgims of old feel? Of course we had to climb the worn stairs of the rock to St Michel d'Aiguihle. Just amazing to see these places built so long ago.
Once again we had several PBV in the vicinity and over the week we also visited Montpeyroux, St Saturnin and St Floret. At the latter, we drove up to St Chastel church to look back down over the village. For us this was the best part. This small chapel has a very old cemetery with tombs carved into the rock and now exposed. A small beehive shaped building proved to be an ossuary. An interesting and unexpected experience.
It was overcast and quite cool when we drove down the Gorges of the Allier but still very scenic. We climbed up to the remains of the Gallo-Roman fortress at St Ilpize. The town is reached by a suspension bridge, one car at a time. Lavoute- Chilhac is built on a loop of the river and it is possible to see the river flowing in two directions a short walk apart. There is an elegant bridge and a Clunisien abbey. Chanteuges also has an abbey high on a platform of rock overlooking pretty countryside. After a picnic by the river we followed it through old villages before climbing up to a high platean. The evidence of past volcanic activity was visible everywhere
The nearby town of Brioude has a very fine church of different coloured rock and old frescoes. We stopped at a patisserie and after admiring the display, the young lady was keen to impress on us that times are changing and a lot do not appreciate the skill of these artisans. We live in a provincial city and do not have the choice that was available there. [Lucky for my waistline!]. On the other side of Brioude is the village of Lamothe with its' imposing fortress. Something we also enjoy are the avenues of trees you see regularly along the roads. There is a paricularly fine example on the road between Lamothe and Brioude.
With the exception of Puy en Velay, this is not an area I see mentioned on travel forums. But we really enjoyed our week there. I am enjoying remembering as I sit in front of our fire at home on another very bleak day.
All too soon it was Saturday and we were off to the Haute Loire. Once again we drove along the Lot river and headed north. We had a picnic lunch in a very cold spot [Super Lioran] with a stunning outlook to snow capped mountains. After all, there is really no choice, is there between a green scenic road and a tunnel. In this obscure place we were amazed to meet another Australian couple.
Our rental this week was in the small village of St Beauzire near Brioude. It used to be the small epicerie in the heart of the village and has been cleverly renovated into a comfortable gite. It had a great wood fire which we put to good use in what was to be a very cold week. At about five on Saturday, a loud blast of a horn heralded the arrival of a boucherie van and the ladies of the village came. The same thing happened at nine the next morning, this time the baker [ with very good baguettes]. We loved this window into life in this small French village. Our first floor bedroom looked out to the church and each morning and night at seven, the bells rang for several minutes.
Sunday was very bleak. We did venture out for a short drive to Blesle [PBV] which, despite the nasty weather, was busy with people at the epicerie and charcuterie. Home to stoke up the fire and have a quiet afternoon. We did return to this charming village later in the week follwing a drive along the Allagnon river. Late in the afternoon there were some light flurries of snow. It was the perfect night for another favourite - Morteau sausage [from the Jura] cooked with a variety of vegetables.
We woke to find there had been a light fall of snow overnight. Quite exciting for us as we never see snow. We later drove up to Lavaudieu which is nicely positioned on the Allier river. We then drove up through the Livradois forest towards La Chaise Dieu. As we drove there was more and more snow. It was like driving through a Christmas card. The trees were like white lace and when we reached the town, it was buried in snow. It was quite magical. We left our footprints in the snow on the stairs up to the huge church. And inside a wonderful organ surrounded by sumptuous wood carvings. What a great afternoon. That night as our dinner baked, we sat in front of the fire with a glass of wine and listened to the bells ringing. We felt decidedly content.
Next day was another 'looked forward to' day out -a visit to Puy en Velay. We enjoyed wandering the steep, narrow streets and reaching the impressive cathedral. We stood at the top of the stairs as many before us and looked out into the distance. What did the pilgims of old feel? Of course we had to climb the worn stairs of the rock to St Michel d'Aiguihle. Just amazing to see these places built so long ago.
Once again we had several PBV in the vicinity and over the week we also visited Montpeyroux, St Saturnin and St Floret. At the latter, we drove up to St Chastel church to look back down over the village. For us this was the best part. This small chapel has a very old cemetery with tombs carved into the rock and now exposed. A small beehive shaped building proved to be an ossuary. An interesting and unexpected experience.
It was overcast and quite cool when we drove down the Gorges of the Allier but still very scenic. We climbed up to the remains of the Gallo-Roman fortress at St Ilpize. The town is reached by a suspension bridge, one car at a time. Lavoute- Chilhac is built on a loop of the river and it is possible to see the river flowing in two directions a short walk apart. There is an elegant bridge and a Clunisien abbey. Chanteuges also has an abbey high on a platform of rock overlooking pretty countryside. After a picnic by the river we followed it through old villages before climbing up to a high platean. The evidence of past volcanic activity was visible everywhere
The nearby town of Brioude has a very fine church of different coloured rock and old frescoes. We stopped at a patisserie and after admiring the display, the young lady was keen to impress on us that times are changing and a lot do not appreciate the skill of these artisans. We live in a provincial city and do not have the choice that was available there. [Lucky for my waistline!]. On the other side of Brioude is the village of Lamothe with its' imposing fortress. Something we also enjoy are the avenues of trees you see regularly along the roads. There is a paricularly fine example on the road between Lamothe and Brioude.
With the exception of Puy en Velay, this is not an area I see mentioned on travel forums. But we really enjoyed our week there. I am enjoying remembering as I sit in front of our fire at home on another very bleak day.
Jun 26th, 2012, 11:50 PM
#28
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Next stop, the Charente- Maritime. After skirting Clermont and heading cross country, our GPS took us the scenic route [not the way we had been expecting] around Limoges. We stopped for lunch in a village car park across from a school. No picnic table today. Showers lead us to a sheltered seat in front of the school. Here I read the school lunch menu for April. What a pity it was not open for lunch! Four courses, salad, main, cheese and dessert. But then this is France. No Vegemite sandwiches here.
Our gite this week was in a hamlet near Aulnay. English ex-pat owners and very comfortable with the best bed of the trip. Sadly, the weather this week was the worst we have had on our trips to France. It seemed to rain all week with the exception of three mornings, and it was very cold.
Sunday was not too bad. Aulnay has a very good small market on Sunday and it was also a flower market and vide grenier. We bought some local goats cheese [ we are very fond of the goats cheese from small producers at markets], white asparagus and a slice of a regional speciality called 'farci charentais'. The vendor told me spinach, onion, parsley, eggs and pork. It proved to be light and delicious. I had not cooked white asparagus before, so was pleased at my first effort. Room for improvement.
During the week, any break in the weather [or not ] saw us driving round the pretty lanes and villages. Once again the countryside was lovely even in the rain. Fields of golden canola and green wheat. At times on the narrow roads we felt as if we were driving through a thick carpet. We especially liked seeing a small patch of grapevines now and then among the other crops. Of course they increased as we neared Cognac.
On Monday we drove down to the elegant town of Saintes. It has a lot to offer- a nice old centre, lovely cathedral, Roman amphitheatre, Arc de Triomphe all in a picturesque position on the river. But it was a horrible day and in the end we gave up. Probably the best pain au chocolat and flan we have had eased the pain a bit.
We managed a fine morning in Cognac which we really enjoyed with its' elegant buildings, covered market, parks and cognac houses. This time we bought a Tres Vieux Pineau de Charentes [ grape juice and cognac] Very nice.
Aulnay has a significant church on the pilgrim trail and it is very impressive with some intersting graves. On the way, we passed 'deux pelerins en passage'. They wrote in the visitor book at the church.
It was our anniversary this week and a small restaurant with an interesting menu attracted our attention. But on arrival on Thursday night, we were told the menu only applied to weekends.We stayed and enjoyed the buffet entree - interesting salads, meats and sausages and condiments. DH pounced on the boudin noir. Mains followed- steak et frites for DH and fish[provencal sauce] and chips pour moi. A demi pichet completed our meal No room for dessert. Not the gourmet meal we had expected, but good honest food nonetheless, and all for the princely sum of 24.50 euro. Happy Anniversary!
Our drives around the area lead us to some pretty villages.Fenioux with a Romanesque church and a striking Lanterne des Morts in a gorgeous setting. Taillebourg with an old chateau with a marvellous balustrade around the grounds overlooking the river. St Savinien which has long quais along the river. Nearby Dompierre sur Boutonne has an attractive chateau on the river. In Beauvoir sur Niort we stopped at the market where we bought some boudin blanc which were delicious.
The weather was more promising when we drove over to La Rochelle but only until late morning. This was new for us as we have virtually no experience of coastal France. So we really enjoyed our time in this stylish city exploring the port area and the narrow back streets. Quite a lot of tourists around.
We had hoped to visit the Marais Poitevin this week but did not because of the weather. We decided to drive through on our way to Brittany. On the way to Coulon we encountered that sign which can strike terror into the hearts of unsuspecting motorists- Route Barree!!. Well , us anyway. We had several this trip with often long detours to reach our destination. A second one that same day meant we did not see the Marais. The weather was horrible any way. Perhaps another time. On to Brittany.
Our gite this week was in a hamlet near Aulnay. English ex-pat owners and very comfortable with the best bed of the trip. Sadly, the weather this week was the worst we have had on our trips to France. It seemed to rain all week with the exception of three mornings, and it was very cold.
Sunday was not too bad. Aulnay has a very good small market on Sunday and it was also a flower market and vide grenier. We bought some local goats cheese [ we are very fond of the goats cheese from small producers at markets], white asparagus and a slice of a regional speciality called 'farci charentais'. The vendor told me spinach, onion, parsley, eggs and pork. It proved to be light and delicious. I had not cooked white asparagus before, so was pleased at my first effort. Room for improvement.
During the week, any break in the weather [or not ] saw us driving round the pretty lanes and villages. Once again the countryside was lovely even in the rain. Fields of golden canola and green wheat. At times on the narrow roads we felt as if we were driving through a thick carpet. We especially liked seeing a small patch of grapevines now and then among the other crops. Of course they increased as we neared Cognac.
On Monday we drove down to the elegant town of Saintes. It has a lot to offer- a nice old centre, lovely cathedral, Roman amphitheatre, Arc de Triomphe all in a picturesque position on the river. But it was a horrible day and in the end we gave up. Probably the best pain au chocolat and flan we have had eased the pain a bit.
We managed a fine morning in Cognac which we really enjoyed with its' elegant buildings, covered market, parks and cognac houses. This time we bought a Tres Vieux Pineau de Charentes [ grape juice and cognac] Very nice.
Aulnay has a significant church on the pilgrim trail and it is very impressive with some intersting graves. On the way, we passed 'deux pelerins en passage'. They wrote in the visitor book at the church.
It was our anniversary this week and a small restaurant with an interesting menu attracted our attention. But on arrival on Thursday night, we were told the menu only applied to weekends.We stayed and enjoyed the buffet entree - interesting salads, meats and sausages and condiments. DH pounced on the boudin noir. Mains followed- steak et frites for DH and fish[provencal sauce] and chips pour moi. A demi pichet completed our meal No room for dessert. Not the gourmet meal we had expected, but good honest food nonetheless, and all for the princely sum of 24.50 euro. Happy Anniversary!
Our drives around the area lead us to some pretty villages.Fenioux with a Romanesque church and a striking Lanterne des Morts in a gorgeous setting. Taillebourg with an old chateau with a marvellous balustrade around the grounds overlooking the river. St Savinien which has long quais along the river. Nearby Dompierre sur Boutonne has an attractive chateau on the river. In Beauvoir sur Niort we stopped at the market where we bought some boudin blanc which were delicious.
The weather was more promising when we drove over to La Rochelle but only until late morning. This was new for us as we have virtually no experience of coastal France. So we really enjoyed our time in this stylish city exploring the port area and the narrow back streets. Quite a lot of tourists around.
We had hoped to visit the Marais Poitevin this week but did not because of the weather. We decided to drive through on our way to Brittany. On the way to Coulon we encountered that sign which can strike terror into the hearts of unsuspecting motorists- Route Barree!!. Well , us anyway. We had several this trip with often long detours to reach our destination. A second one that same day meant we did not see the Marais. The weather was horrible any way. Perhaps another time. On to Brittany.
Jun 27th, 2012, 09:31 PM
#30
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It had stopped raining by the time we arrived at our new gite a couple of minutes outside the village of Yvignac la Tour about 15 minutes south of Dinan. The 'La Tour' is immediately obvious- a stiking tower of the church. Once again, quite comfortable in a very pretty setting of a small hamlet amidst farmland. With the evenings getting longer, we enjoyed several walks down the lanes past farm houses and fields of cultivation and inquisitive cattle. Lots of wildflowers to scatter around the gite. Not a wine area, but we enjoyed some Breton cider a few times instead.
Sunday was wet again, so we were delighted to wake on Monday to blue skies, although cold and windy. We set off through the countryside- very pretty and we liked the villages. They were very neat and tidy with trimmed hedges and colourful gardens of shrubs and foliage. We spent the morning pottering around the villages. There was an impressive church in Madreac. We spotted a tower in the distance which turned out to be an abbey -La Tour St Joseph- and passed an attractive chateau and church at St Chapelle Chaussee [I think]. Becheral, known as a book town was nice with buildings of dark grey granite, remains of walls and ramparts and a pretty town square. Of course, being Monday everything was closed. We had a late lunch [very average crepes] in Dinan. We have been to Dinan before so it was nice to re-visit. It is as lovely as I remember.
Tuesday was the May 1 holiday and the weather was improving. First a stop in Montcontour [PBV] high on a hill with a triangular town 'square'. All the shops have decorative signs and it was quite busy. Then onto Erquy which is a pretty seaside resort. It had a slightly English feel to me. There are wonderful views from nearby Cap d'Erquy and an enjoyable walk around the Cap.
More impressive scenery as we drove to Cap Frehel. We found a picnic table with a view in the sun to enjoy our sandwiches -crusty baguette, jambon cru d'Auvergne and a deliciously ripe camembert. Yum. Cap Frehel is stunning with interesting rock formations and cliffs. Lots of visitors too. And what a site is Fort La Latte with the ocean as a backdrop. It was a great day.
On Wednesday we drove to St Malo which is another lovely town. The weather was glorious as we walked the walls and the town within. We then followed the scenic route to Pointe Grouin. The water was a wonderful deep blue-green and we could see Mont St Michel in the distance. Later we were lucky to find a park at the port in Cancale. The restaurants were busy, but we did the tourist thing and had two dozen oysters from one of the stalls and sat on the wall to enjoy them. And they were delicious.
Thursday we left early and arrived at the recently opened carpark at Mont St Michel about nine. Now that is a carpark! It was still very foggy and MSM loomed impressively out of the mist. After reading on forums about the steep walk up, [ late 50s not terribly fit grandma], I was pleasantly surprised. But then I did make it to the Cathar castles. We managed to slot our visit between Japanese tour groups and DH actually has photos with no people. It is certainly a magnificent structure. After visiting the Abbey we walked back down and admired the levels and skill of construction. The crowds were really pouring in as we were leaving and we were pleased to be going the other way.
Our last full day was a bit gloomy as we drove over to Jugon les Lacs which is a pretty town. Unfortunately, the goats cheese we bought at the market turned out to be sour and unpleasant.
The guest book in the gite recommended the bar/bistro, Les Templiers, in Yvignac and lunch beckoned. This was the French lunch you read about - that sought after " place where the locals eat". Entree was the buffet again, three choices for mains, a bottomless bread basket, the cheese tray passed from table to table as needed, several dessert options and the coffee pot passed around. A litre bottle of wine appeared while we were getting entree. Don't worry, we did not drink it all. The cost? 11.80 per person. There must have been 60-70 people, mostly French, having lunch and we thoroughly enjoyed it. No dinner that night! It was a great finale to a terrific week.
Sunday was wet again, so we were delighted to wake on Monday to blue skies, although cold and windy. We set off through the countryside- very pretty and we liked the villages. They were very neat and tidy with trimmed hedges and colourful gardens of shrubs and foliage. We spent the morning pottering around the villages. There was an impressive church in Madreac. We spotted a tower in the distance which turned out to be an abbey -La Tour St Joseph- and passed an attractive chateau and church at St Chapelle Chaussee [I think]. Becheral, known as a book town was nice with buildings of dark grey granite, remains of walls and ramparts and a pretty town square. Of course, being Monday everything was closed. We had a late lunch [very average crepes] in Dinan. We have been to Dinan before so it was nice to re-visit. It is as lovely as I remember.
Tuesday was the May 1 holiday and the weather was improving. First a stop in Montcontour [PBV] high on a hill with a triangular town 'square'. All the shops have decorative signs and it was quite busy. Then onto Erquy which is a pretty seaside resort. It had a slightly English feel to me. There are wonderful views from nearby Cap d'Erquy and an enjoyable walk around the Cap.
More impressive scenery as we drove to Cap Frehel. We found a picnic table with a view in the sun to enjoy our sandwiches -crusty baguette, jambon cru d'Auvergne and a deliciously ripe camembert. Yum. Cap Frehel is stunning with interesting rock formations and cliffs. Lots of visitors too. And what a site is Fort La Latte with the ocean as a backdrop. It was a great day.
On Wednesday we drove to St Malo which is another lovely town. The weather was glorious as we walked the walls and the town within. We then followed the scenic route to Pointe Grouin. The water was a wonderful deep blue-green and we could see Mont St Michel in the distance. Later we were lucky to find a park at the port in Cancale. The restaurants were busy, but we did the tourist thing and had two dozen oysters from one of the stalls and sat on the wall to enjoy them. And they were delicious.
Thursday we left early and arrived at the recently opened carpark at Mont St Michel about nine. Now that is a carpark! It was still very foggy and MSM loomed impressively out of the mist. After reading on forums about the steep walk up, [ late 50s not terribly fit grandma], I was pleasantly surprised. But then I did make it to the Cathar castles. We managed to slot our visit between Japanese tour groups and DH actually has photos with no people. It is certainly a magnificent structure. After visiting the Abbey we walked back down and admired the levels and skill of construction. The crowds were really pouring in as we were leaving and we were pleased to be going the other way.
Our last full day was a bit gloomy as we drove over to Jugon les Lacs which is a pretty town. Unfortunately, the goats cheese we bought at the market turned out to be sour and unpleasant.
The guest book in the gite recommended the bar/bistro, Les Templiers, in Yvignac and lunch beckoned. This was the French lunch you read about - that sought after " place where the locals eat". Entree was the buffet again, three choices for mains, a bottomless bread basket, the cheese tray passed from table to table as needed, several dessert options and the coffee pot passed around. A litre bottle of wine appeared while we were getting entree. Don't worry, we did not drink it all. The cost? 11.80 per person. There must have been 60-70 people, mostly French, having lunch and we thoroughly enjoyed it. No dinner that night! It was a great finale to a terrific week.
Jun 28th, 2012, 08:08 AM
#31
rhon- still enjoying "deviating" with you!
your account of the bar/bistro reminds me of the restaurant that was near the gite we rented a couple of years ago south of the Loire - for €15, you were served with the house terrine in its cooking pot to help yourself, along with cold meats and cornichons, then a choice of 3 main courses, with veg, then the cheese board [again, help yourself] and finally a choice of desserts.
coffee and wine were extra but who could grumble at that?
your account of the bar/bistro reminds me of the restaurant that was near the gite we rented a couple of years ago south of the Loire - for €15, you were served with the house terrine in its cooking pot to help yourself, along with cold meats and cornichons, then a choice of 3 main courses, with veg, then the cheese board [again, help yourself] and finally a choice of desserts.
coffee and wine were extra but who could grumble at that?
Jun 29th, 2012, 01:38 AM
#33
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Thanks. Yes it is a great way to travel and we are grateful we can do so.
On Saturday we set off for our base in Normandy. I will say now that we have seen the Bayeaux tapestry and Omaha beach and the American war cemetery on a very quick trip several years ago. This morning we stopped in Villedieu-les-Poeles, the copper pot town. Some gorgeous cookware and a pleasant town to stop in. Would have loved to bring home a whole set. We bought a baguette for lunch which we had by the Orne river in Pont d'Ouilly. As we had some time to fill we drove some scenic roads in what is called Suisse Normandie [and it is very pretty] before arriving at our gite in the hamlet of Les Moutiers en Auge. I do realise that we stay in some places that most would consider isolated. The gite was very nice with views over the country and it was lovely to wake to the sounds of roosters and sheep and cattle.
It is gloomy again so it must be Sunday. We drove around the area nearby and ended up in the village of Chambois where there is a large donjon and a memorial to WW2. The area was known as the Chambois pocket, part of the larger Falaise pocket and was a significant battle of the war. It was here that we had one of those unexpected experiences that make travel so memorable. An old gentleman approached us with an information leaflet about the village. He then took us to a small museum of photos from the village which was devastated in WW2. He was 15 at the time. We spent some time with him and despite our language differences we reached a level of communication that was , for us , a very satisfying and moving experience.
That afternoon we went into St Pierre sur Dives which has the remains of an old abbey, a large cathedral and wonderful enclosed market halles. We then drove down to Vendeuvre to visit the chateau and grounds. There is a large and interesting display of miniatures and the grounds have several water features and different gardens.
The weather was still cool. On Monday there is a very big market in St Pierre. There were lots of live animals, rabbits and a variety of poultry, for sale and the vendors of young chickens, ducklings and goslings were very busy. Also lots of cheeses, cider and regional products. We again enjoyed some cider this week and added Pommeau [apple juice and Calvados] to our list. We bought some Teurgoule which is a slow cooked rice dessert. Later we drove through lovely country with lots of horse farms and the buildings typical of the region to the pretty village of Beuvron en Auge[PBV]
Tuesday was again a public holiday and we visited the chateau grounds at Mezidon Canon which are very nice with canals, the river, follies and walled gardens. An interesting point about both chateaux is that they did not accept credit cards.
There are so many scenic drives in this area. One lead us to the village of Crouttes. We passed through idyllic lush country with cattle grazing under apple trees and lots of woderful half timbered buildings [ I know it has a name but it escapes me]. We stopped in Livarot at an excellent charcuterie where we bought some very good jambon persillee[ not Norman I know, but a favourite ] and at the Fromagerie graindorge for some Pave d'Auge. All these iconic cheeses are delicious.
We also visited Lisieux with the beautiful Basilica. While not an old church, it is still lovely. We went first into the crypt which is elaborately tiled. The main church is overwhelming- a vast expanse, high roofed, a large dome and all tiled mosaics. Nearby is the picturesque checkerboard chateau of st Gremain de Livet. A late lunch at Vimoutiers- once again lots of locals and good inexpensive food. Dessert was an especially delicious creme caramel with creme anglaise and a delicate buttery sable. We followed the pictureque D26 home.
Some of our favourite days are the ones where we just wander around seeing what we see. On Thursday our first stop was an archaelogical site, Camp de Biere, the remains of a celtic camp with large rock walls. We then did a drive past some private chateaux. The first was at Bourg St Leonard. A little further down was the Haras du Pin, the national stud. We did not do the tour as we find tours in French difficult. Then followed Chateau de Medavy and fairytale Chateau d'O. On the way to Chateau de Sassy we passed a tank memorial to three French soldiers who died in it. There was a passionate plaque about liberty and all for which they died. It is stumbling on small things such as this that make our trips special, just as much as the big sites we see.
On Saturday we set off for our base in Normandy. I will say now that we have seen the Bayeaux tapestry and Omaha beach and the American war cemetery on a very quick trip several years ago. This morning we stopped in Villedieu-les-Poeles, the copper pot town. Some gorgeous cookware and a pleasant town to stop in. Would have loved to bring home a whole set. We bought a baguette for lunch which we had by the Orne river in Pont d'Ouilly. As we had some time to fill we drove some scenic roads in what is called Suisse Normandie [and it is very pretty] before arriving at our gite in the hamlet of Les Moutiers en Auge. I do realise that we stay in some places that most would consider isolated. The gite was very nice with views over the country and it was lovely to wake to the sounds of roosters and sheep and cattle.
It is gloomy again so it must be Sunday. We drove around the area nearby and ended up in the village of Chambois where there is a large donjon and a memorial to WW2. The area was known as the Chambois pocket, part of the larger Falaise pocket and was a significant battle of the war. It was here that we had one of those unexpected experiences that make travel so memorable. An old gentleman approached us with an information leaflet about the village. He then took us to a small museum of photos from the village which was devastated in WW2. He was 15 at the time. We spent some time with him and despite our language differences we reached a level of communication that was , for us , a very satisfying and moving experience.
That afternoon we went into St Pierre sur Dives which has the remains of an old abbey, a large cathedral and wonderful enclosed market halles. We then drove down to Vendeuvre to visit the chateau and grounds. There is a large and interesting display of miniatures and the grounds have several water features and different gardens.
The weather was still cool. On Monday there is a very big market in St Pierre. There were lots of live animals, rabbits and a variety of poultry, for sale and the vendors of young chickens, ducklings and goslings were very busy. Also lots of cheeses, cider and regional products. We again enjoyed some cider this week and added Pommeau [apple juice and Calvados] to our list. We bought some Teurgoule which is a slow cooked rice dessert. Later we drove through lovely country with lots of horse farms and the buildings typical of the region to the pretty village of Beuvron en Auge[PBV]
Tuesday was again a public holiday and we visited the chateau grounds at Mezidon Canon which are very nice with canals, the river, follies and walled gardens. An interesting point about both chateaux is that they did not accept credit cards.
There are so many scenic drives in this area. One lead us to the village of Crouttes. We passed through idyllic lush country with cattle grazing under apple trees and lots of woderful half timbered buildings [ I know it has a name but it escapes me]. We stopped in Livarot at an excellent charcuterie where we bought some very good jambon persillee[ not Norman I know, but a favourite ] and at the Fromagerie graindorge for some Pave d'Auge. All these iconic cheeses are delicious.
We also visited Lisieux with the beautiful Basilica. While not an old church, it is still lovely. We went first into the crypt which is elaborately tiled. The main church is overwhelming- a vast expanse, high roofed, a large dome and all tiled mosaics. Nearby is the picturesque checkerboard chateau of st Gremain de Livet. A late lunch at Vimoutiers- once again lots of locals and good inexpensive food. Dessert was an especially delicious creme caramel with creme anglaise and a delicate buttery sable. We followed the pictureque D26 home.
Some of our favourite days are the ones where we just wander around seeing what we see. On Thursday our first stop was an archaelogical site, Camp de Biere, the remains of a celtic camp with large rock walls. We then did a drive past some private chateaux. The first was at Bourg St Leonard. A little further down was the Haras du Pin, the national stud. We did not do the tour as we find tours in French difficult. Then followed Chateau de Medavy and fairytale Chateau d'O. On the way to Chateau de Sassy we passed a tank memorial to three French soldiers who died in it. There was a passionate plaque about liberty and all for which they died. It is stumbling on small things such as this that make our trips special, just as much as the big sites we see.
Jun 29th, 2012, 01:54 AM
#35
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Oops. posted before I was finished.
On our last day we drove down to the attractive town of Putanges pont- ecrepin on the Orne river. Then a lovely drive through the country to Roche d'Outre where we walked along the cliffs with great views. Lunch was a picnic with a view of the ruins of the chateau of Guillame le Conquerant[ now that is more romantic sounding isn't it] in Falaise. It was badly damaged in the war and is now a visitor centre. Below in the town there is an impressive statue of the man himself and another lovely church. That night I cooked cuisse de pintade [guinea fowl] with a vege tian of fennel, zucchini, tomato and blue cheese and breadcrumbs. One of the things we love about France is the availibility of things such as guinea fowl. I do not know where I could get it here.
Another week over with our next destination one of importance for us as Australians.
On our last day we drove down to the attractive town of Putanges pont- ecrepin on the Orne river. Then a lovely drive through the country to Roche d'Outre where we walked along the cliffs with great views. Lunch was a picnic with a view of the ruins of the chateau of Guillame le Conquerant[ now that is more romantic sounding isn't it] in Falaise. It was badly damaged in the war and is now a visitor centre. Below in the town there is an impressive statue of the man himself and another lovely church. That night I cooked cuisse de pintade [guinea fowl] with a vege tian of fennel, zucchini, tomato and blue cheese and breadcrumbs. One of the things we love about France is the availibility of things such as guinea fowl. I do not know where I could get it here.
Another week over with our next destination one of importance for us as Australians.
Jun 29th, 2012, 05:45 PM
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Saturday was a lovely day weatherwise and we decided to drive the red roads instead of autoroutes on our way to Picardy. Our GPS took us the backroads around Vernon but sadly no time to visit Giverny this time. The country flattened out , still canola and wheat, but also the deeply furrowed paddocks for potatoes.
Our gite this week was in the small village of Caulaincourt between St Quentin and Peronne. As a whole the villages, I suppose from war damage, do not have the charm of some other areas. However, ours was quite pretty with a lake, red brick houses and green and neat gardens. We looked over the fence to the owner's stables and horses.
This week was important to us as Australians to see the places where so many of our countrymen died in WW1. Neither of us have family connections to the war. However, our elderly neighbour had an uncle killed at Mouquet Farm in 1916 and his name is on the wall at Villers Bretonneux. So that was our goal this week.
The weather was still cool as we set off via Peronne and later a scenic road near the Somme which led us to a belvedere over looking the marshy islands and waterway. Quite unexpected and picturesque. We finally reached Pozieres where we saw the Australian memorials and of course the Aussie 'digger' under the town sign. Then on to Mouquet Farm. Today in this peaceful farming community it is hard to comprehend the horror that happened here with thousands of lives lost. We then moved on to the Thiepval memorial and the interesting Newfoundland memorial at Beaumont Hamel. Our final stop was a large crater made by shelling.
Every day that week we saw war cemeteries, some small, some large, but all beautifully maintained. It was very sobering. We stopped at a German cemetery where 38,000 soldiers who were also someone's husband, father, son or brother are buried.
At last some warmer weather. We drove down to Compiegne where we visited the chateau which was wonderful- beautiful apartments and a stunning ballroom. The grounds are also lovely and it was here we saw the Remarkable Tree of France- quite old and with gorgeous red foliage. We are also quite impressed by some of the Hotels de Ville that we see all over France, and the one in Compiegne is magnificent. We then drove via the Armistice Clearing to Pierrefonds, an attractive town with a fairytale chateau. A long day but most enjoyable.
On Tuesday we stopped at the Australian Corps Memorial at Le Hamel. It is an interesting memorial among the wheatfields. Next stop was the memorial at Villers Bretonneux. The clouds were building as we srrived. We found 'our soldier' on the wall, one of 11,000 who have no known grave. We were at the top of the tower when the storm broke - wind, rain, sleet. It was so cold as we huddled in the corner. It really is a wonderful place for Australians to visit, being as proud of our ANZAC heritage as we all are.
That week we also visited Amiens and St Quentin, both of which have wonderful cathedrals. Thursday was another public holiday. We headed down to the Foret de Gobain which is a very picturesque area. Some pretty villages and old abbeys and a Priory [private] at Le Tortoir, some attractive lakes and the abbey at Premonthe. It is now a large hospital. The last stop was at Coucy le Chateau which is an old fortified town with gates, remains of walls and the ruins of a castle/fort.
We were feeling a little sad as we again prepared to move on as this would be our last week. How better to toast a wonderful trip with some champagne!
Our gite this week was in the small village of Caulaincourt between St Quentin and Peronne. As a whole the villages, I suppose from war damage, do not have the charm of some other areas. However, ours was quite pretty with a lake, red brick houses and green and neat gardens. We looked over the fence to the owner's stables and horses.
This week was important to us as Australians to see the places where so many of our countrymen died in WW1. Neither of us have family connections to the war. However, our elderly neighbour had an uncle killed at Mouquet Farm in 1916 and his name is on the wall at Villers Bretonneux. So that was our goal this week.
The weather was still cool as we set off via Peronne and later a scenic road near the Somme which led us to a belvedere over looking the marshy islands and waterway. Quite unexpected and picturesque. We finally reached Pozieres where we saw the Australian memorials and of course the Aussie 'digger' under the town sign. Then on to Mouquet Farm. Today in this peaceful farming community it is hard to comprehend the horror that happened here with thousands of lives lost. We then moved on to the Thiepval memorial and the interesting Newfoundland memorial at Beaumont Hamel. Our final stop was a large crater made by shelling.
Every day that week we saw war cemeteries, some small, some large, but all beautifully maintained. It was very sobering. We stopped at a German cemetery where 38,000 soldiers who were also someone's husband, father, son or brother are buried.
At last some warmer weather. We drove down to Compiegne where we visited the chateau which was wonderful- beautiful apartments and a stunning ballroom. The grounds are also lovely and it was here we saw the Remarkable Tree of France- quite old and with gorgeous red foliage. We are also quite impressed by some of the Hotels de Ville that we see all over France, and the one in Compiegne is magnificent. We then drove via the Armistice Clearing to Pierrefonds, an attractive town with a fairytale chateau. A long day but most enjoyable.
On Tuesday we stopped at the Australian Corps Memorial at Le Hamel. It is an interesting memorial among the wheatfields. Next stop was the memorial at Villers Bretonneux. The clouds were building as we srrived. We found 'our soldier' on the wall, one of 11,000 who have no known grave. We were at the top of the tower when the storm broke - wind, rain, sleet. It was so cold as we huddled in the corner. It really is a wonderful place for Australians to visit, being as proud of our ANZAC heritage as we all are.
That week we also visited Amiens and St Quentin, both of which have wonderful cathedrals. Thursday was another public holiday. We headed down to the Foret de Gobain which is a very picturesque area. Some pretty villages and old abbeys and a Priory [private] at Le Tortoir, some attractive lakes and the abbey at Premonthe. It is now a large hospital. The last stop was at Coucy le Chateau which is an old fortified town with gates, remains of walls and the ruins of a castle/fort.
We were feeling a little sad as we again prepared to move on as this would be our last week. How better to toast a wonderful trip with some champagne!
Jun 30th, 2012, 05:50 PM
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It was warmer as we set off towards the Champagne region. We stopped in the hilltop town of Laon which we could see as we approached. After a look around we had lunch at a small cheeseshop - a tasting plate of six cheeses and charcuterie and a glass of wine. We then followed the scenic route with a stop in Martigny- Courpierre to see the lovely Art Deco church [ thank you French Mystique ]. As we neared Reims the grapevines increased. Our last destination was the champagne village of Bouzy.
On Sunday we went into Epernay and deciced to return for the 3.30 tour at Moet Chandon. So we headed down the wine route from Epernay. We had not realised the magnitude of this industry. Coming from Australia where visiting wineries is relatively easy, we are always a bit daunted by closed doors and huge gates, also closed. Especially as my French is high school [ a long time ago ] and DH confined to Bonjour and merci. But we did find a cave in Oger open with a very friendly owner who showed us his cellars and we tasted his Grand Cru champagne. Also Ratafia, another member of the aperitif family. After buying some bottles we continued on through the vines. We enjoyed our tour of MC and tasting but we really enjoyed our first bottle that night.
Monday morning was wet. After lunch the rain stopped and the fog rolled in. We drove up to the Faux de Verzy and had a great time walking in the forest of beech and pine. What makes this forest special is that many of the beech trees have grown in a mis-shapen way, all gnarled and twisted instead of tall and staight. Being the end of Spring, the trees had their new leaves but we could still see the twisted framework. It would be terrific in winter. A lovely forest to explore.
Tuesday was gloomy- no rain but heavy fog- and cold again. After a stop in Chalons, we went on out to L'Epine to see the impressive cathedral and had lunch in the bar/bistro. Lots of locals again and a great pork plat du jour. There was another restaurant, more upmarket, which we did consider for our last night dinner. But were put off by the drive.
We had really hoped to see this lovely area bathed in sunshine, but instead it was blanketed in fog until Thursday afternoon. So we had to make the best of it. We drove along the Marne to Dormans where there is a striking memorial to the battles of the Marne [WW1]. We drove home along winding roads through the vines, through pretty wine villages but it was still 'murky'. We also visited the gorgeous old city of Troyes with its lovely old buildings and churches. Lots of work going on in the historic centre.
When the fog lifted it was lovely and warm. At last we could sit outside after dinner with some fresh raspberries, chocolates from the local boulangerie and of course a bottle of bubbly.
Of course our last day was perfect and we spent it doing what we enjoy most -finding some lovely villages. Montmort Lucy with its' striking chateau and Orbais l'Abbaye to name a couple. And at last the sunshine. That night we had dinner at La Touraine Champenoise in the nearby village of Tours sur Marne. Here we had a wonderful meal- excellent food and service in intimate surroudigs. Our entree of local white asparagus showed me I have a lot to learn.
Our holiday was over. We had hoped to spend a few days in Paris but family committments prevented that. We had a long day to fill on Saturday so we took our time along some green scenic roads before dropping the car at CDG.
This was our fourth and longest trip to France, so we have now seen a lot of different areas. Will we be back? We are already looking to 2014, perhaps UK and Ireland with a couple of weeks in Paris for our French 'fix'. And there are places in our own wonderful country to see. But then one of us will say " remember that week in ....." and we smile. So yes, I think we will be back
Au revoir.
On Sunday we went into Epernay and deciced to return for the 3.30 tour at Moet Chandon. So we headed down the wine route from Epernay. We had not realised the magnitude of this industry. Coming from Australia where visiting wineries is relatively easy, we are always a bit daunted by closed doors and huge gates, also closed. Especially as my French is high school [ a long time ago ] and DH confined to Bonjour and merci. But we did find a cave in Oger open with a very friendly owner who showed us his cellars and we tasted his Grand Cru champagne. Also Ratafia, another member of the aperitif family. After buying some bottles we continued on through the vines. We enjoyed our tour of MC and tasting but we really enjoyed our first bottle that night.
Monday morning was wet. After lunch the rain stopped and the fog rolled in. We drove up to the Faux de Verzy and had a great time walking in the forest of beech and pine. What makes this forest special is that many of the beech trees have grown in a mis-shapen way, all gnarled and twisted instead of tall and staight. Being the end of Spring, the trees had their new leaves but we could still see the twisted framework. It would be terrific in winter. A lovely forest to explore.
Tuesday was gloomy- no rain but heavy fog- and cold again. After a stop in Chalons, we went on out to L'Epine to see the impressive cathedral and had lunch in the bar/bistro. Lots of locals again and a great pork plat du jour. There was another restaurant, more upmarket, which we did consider for our last night dinner. But were put off by the drive.
We had really hoped to see this lovely area bathed in sunshine, but instead it was blanketed in fog until Thursday afternoon. So we had to make the best of it. We drove along the Marne to Dormans where there is a striking memorial to the battles of the Marne [WW1]. We drove home along winding roads through the vines, through pretty wine villages but it was still 'murky'. We also visited the gorgeous old city of Troyes with its lovely old buildings and churches. Lots of work going on in the historic centre.
When the fog lifted it was lovely and warm. At last we could sit outside after dinner with some fresh raspberries, chocolates from the local boulangerie and of course a bottle of bubbly.
Of course our last day was perfect and we spent it doing what we enjoy most -finding some lovely villages. Montmort Lucy with its' striking chateau and Orbais l'Abbaye to name a couple. And at last the sunshine. That night we had dinner at La Touraine Champenoise in the nearby village of Tours sur Marne. Here we had a wonderful meal- excellent food and service in intimate surroudigs. Our entree of local white asparagus showed me I have a lot to learn.
Our holiday was over. We had hoped to spend a few days in Paris but family committments prevented that. We had a long day to fill on Saturday so we took our time along some green scenic roads before dropping the car at CDG.
This was our fourth and longest trip to France, so we have now seen a lot of different areas. Will we be back? We are already looking to 2014, perhaps UK and Ireland with a couple of weeks in Paris for our French 'fix'. And there are places in our own wonderful country to see. But then one of us will say " remember that week in ....." and we smile. So yes, I think we will be back
Au revoir.
Jul 1st, 2012, 01:00 AM
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Fabulous report, well done. Apologies for my simplicity - I want to do some travelling in France but will not have the luxury of nine weeks, any tips ie if you only had a limited time where would you concentrate your efforts?
