Our First Trip To Barcelona, But Not Our Last!
Nov 23rd, 2010, 03:31 PM
#22
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Thanks all for the positive comments. Nikki: The best people watching was done from the apartment window. One late afternoon we had returned to the apartment for some wine and snacks. We set up our chairs and small table right in front of the window/door and watched the parade go by. We noticed a young couple in a building across the way in an apartment on the top floor. They were doing the same thing but on a small balcony. Then they spotted us and we toasted one another. A small, funny experience.
Our last full day in Barcelona was Sunday. Fortunately I had purchased gifts for my family on Saturday, as most stores were closed that day. I ended up shopping at small stores on Rambla de Catalunya. I shopped at a very chic looking little store called "Uno de 50". It was actually very affordable jewelery. I purchased some earrings for my daughter. As always in Europe the packaging of the gift was unique. http://www.unode50.com/?idioma=en
Sunday was the first day that wasn't completely sunny. We looked up at the mountain where the amusement park, Tibidabo was located. The church, Sagrat Cor at the very top was covered in gray clouds. As our time in Barcelona was coming to an end, we had no choice but to go up the mountain that day. We picked up some sandwiches at Mauri's, but didn't eat them up there as it was too cold! We took the L7 line, which is another train and requires a different ticket than the T-10, to Ave. Tibidabo. From there we boarded the Tramvia Blau, which requires a 2nd ticket and headed up Ave. Tibidabo. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tramvia_Blau
After the tram we ran across the street (to beat the crowds) and boarded the Tibidabo funicular, which required another ticket. We had spectacular views of Barcelona. The houses on the sides of the mountain were very upscale and mixed with old and new. People were bringing bikes up on the funicular and we could see other bicyclists riding down the mountain on the curving road.
Up at the top was the church, a restaurant and the amusement park. We didn't pay to go into the park, but we did buy a few tickets for the older rides that are from the early 1920's. There is a scene in the movie, "Vicky Cristina Barcelona" where they are up on Tibidabo with the airplane ride in the background. We took alot of pictures and then headed back down the same way we came up.
After resting up at the apartment; by now my feet were killing me and I was babying them to get me through the rest of the trip, we headed by metro to the Drassanes stop to see the Maritime Museum. The museum was closed for renovations. They did allow you to go into a small part of the museum and you did get an idea of what the building looked like. It was the former royal shipyards. The closed museum worked in our favor as we ended up taking a very nice and relaxing 35 minute boat ride of the harbor.
We had decided that we would stop at Ciudad Comdal for food after the day of sightseeing, as this had been our favorite place to eat during our trip. We sat in the window again at a tall table near the bar and watched all the people on a very busy Sunday evening. We called it an early evening, 9:00, and went back to the apartment to pack.
We had breakfast our final morning at Mauri's and made our way down to the Passeig de Gracia metro and on the train to the airport. The airport in Barcelona is a pleasure to wait in. It is clean, modern and full of shops and places to eat. We had a comfortable and uneventful flight on Swiss back home to Boston. Now it was time to reflect on what a wonderful visit we had in Barcelona.
I would definitely recommend the apartment agency www.habitatapartments.com
We had very good weather in November and the crowds were not bad at all. It was the beginning of the low season and the price for the apartment was at it's lowest at a very reasonable $111 per night.
We were glad that we purchased the ArtTicket and the T-10 on the metro (which could also be used on buses and the airport train).
We were happy to stick with tapas and cava or beer or wine for eating out. We didn't eat a "regular" meal anywhere but the Vietnamese restaurant.
People couldn't have been nicer to us. The Eixample was a good choice for us. I think I would choose to stay there in a future visit to Barcelona. We were very centrally located.
We will return! It's just a question of when.
I will put together some photos and get them posted asap.
Our last full day in Barcelona was Sunday. Fortunately I had purchased gifts for my family on Saturday, as most stores were closed that day. I ended up shopping at small stores on Rambla de Catalunya. I shopped at a very chic looking little store called "Uno de 50". It was actually very affordable jewelery. I purchased some earrings for my daughter. As always in Europe the packaging of the gift was unique. http://www.unode50.com/?idioma=en
Sunday was the first day that wasn't completely sunny. We looked up at the mountain where the amusement park, Tibidabo was located. The church, Sagrat Cor at the very top was covered in gray clouds. As our time in Barcelona was coming to an end, we had no choice but to go up the mountain that day. We picked up some sandwiches at Mauri's, but didn't eat them up there as it was too cold! We took the L7 line, which is another train and requires a different ticket than the T-10, to Ave. Tibidabo. From there we boarded the Tramvia Blau, which requires a 2nd ticket and headed up Ave. Tibidabo. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tramvia_Blau
After the tram we ran across the street (to beat the crowds) and boarded the Tibidabo funicular, which required another ticket. We had spectacular views of Barcelona. The houses on the sides of the mountain were very upscale and mixed with old and new. People were bringing bikes up on the funicular and we could see other bicyclists riding down the mountain on the curving road.
Up at the top was the church, a restaurant and the amusement park. We didn't pay to go into the park, but we did buy a few tickets for the older rides that are from the early 1920's. There is a scene in the movie, "Vicky Cristina Barcelona" where they are up on Tibidabo with the airplane ride in the background. We took alot of pictures and then headed back down the same way we came up.
After resting up at the apartment; by now my feet were killing me and I was babying them to get me through the rest of the trip, we headed by metro to the Drassanes stop to see the Maritime Museum. The museum was closed for renovations. They did allow you to go into a small part of the museum and you did get an idea of what the building looked like. It was the former royal shipyards. The closed museum worked in our favor as we ended up taking a very nice and relaxing 35 minute boat ride of the harbor.
We had decided that we would stop at Ciudad Comdal for food after the day of sightseeing, as this had been our favorite place to eat during our trip. We sat in the window again at a tall table near the bar and watched all the people on a very busy Sunday evening. We called it an early evening, 9:00, and went back to the apartment to pack.
We had breakfast our final morning at Mauri's and made our way down to the Passeig de Gracia metro and on the train to the airport. The airport in Barcelona is a pleasure to wait in. It is clean, modern and full of shops and places to eat. We had a comfortable and uneventful flight on Swiss back home to Boston. Now it was time to reflect on what a wonderful visit we had in Barcelona.
I would definitely recommend the apartment agency www.habitatapartments.com
We had very good weather in November and the crowds were not bad at all. It was the beginning of the low season and the price for the apartment was at it's lowest at a very reasonable $111 per night.
We were glad that we purchased the ArtTicket and the T-10 on the metro (which could also be used on buses and the airport train).
We were happy to stick with tapas and cava or beer or wine for eating out. We didn't eat a "regular" meal anywhere but the Vietnamese restaurant.
People couldn't have been nicer to us. The Eixample was a good choice for us. I think I would choose to stay there in a future visit to Barcelona. We were very centrally located.
We will return! It's just a question of when.
I will put together some photos and get them posted asap.
Nov 25th, 2010, 03:27 AM
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Here are some photos of Barcelona from our perspective. http://picasaweb.google.com/opaloram...eat=directlink
Nov 26th, 2010, 09:38 PM
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thank you for posting the pictures, I just love seeing a different perspective of a city that I've been to. You also went to so many different places that I did, I can't wait to go back to Barcelona to explore those ares.
Nov 28th, 2010, 02:27 PM
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opaldog, thanks for your great report and photos. It's a small world: we just got back yesterday from a week in Barcelona where we also stayed in the Pedrera apartment. Both the apartment and neighborhood were a great fit for us. We loved Barcelona and, like you, know we'll return.
Nikki, I hope you're still reading this thread so you'll see my thank you for your original apartment recommendation and your terrific report!
Nikki, I hope you're still reading this thread so you'll see my thank you for your original apartment recommendation and your terrific report!
Nov 28th, 2010, 05:23 PM
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Thanks lyb for your comment.
mvor: We left the apartment on Nov. 15th. When did you arrive? How many nights did you stay there? We absolutely loved the place. Did you have breakfast at Mauri?
mvor: We left the apartment on Nov. 15th. When did you arrive? How many nights did you stay there? We absolutely loved the place. Did you have breakfast at Mauri?
Nov 29th, 2010, 01:59 AM
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Rereading the post I see that you were there for a week. You must have been there right after us. We had beautiful weather for the entire stay. Early November worked out for us. We are now thinking of a return to Barcelona in 2012 as we already have a trip planned to Paris in 2011. We are investigating combining it with Morocco. Vueling airlines flies from Barcelona. Anyone every done this or anyone with experience in Morocco, I'd love to hear about it.
Nov 29th, 2010, 10:06 AM
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We were there Nov. 20-27. We did get breakfast from Mauri but ate it at the apt in our jammies watching all the people head off to school and work. (We also got great bread from Forenc and made our own version of Pa amb tomàquet. Delicious.) We too had good weather: high 50s to low 60s and that strong Mediterranean sun.
We may return to Barcelona next year, if we can convince my in-laws to travel over Thanksgiving. I know my MIL would love the city.
Have fun in Paris; it's my favourite city on earth. It's been too long since we visited. My husband has a conference in Paris in May 2011 which happens to be the weekend of our anniversary so it's almost like we have to go. But, we already have a Central Europe trip planned for June 2011 so who knows. <i>Too many great places, too little time.</i>
I love the idea of a Barcelona+Morocco combo. Here's a report I bookmarked from 2007 that combines both places.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...s-tangines.cfm
We may return to Barcelona next year, if we can convince my in-laws to travel over Thanksgiving. I know my MIL would love the city.
Have fun in Paris; it's my favourite city on earth. It's been too long since we visited. My husband has a conference in Paris in May 2011 which happens to be the weekend of our anniversary so it's almost like we have to go. But, we already have a Central Europe trip planned for June 2011 so who knows. <i>Too many great places, too little time.</i>
I love the idea of a Barcelona+Morocco combo. Here's a report I bookmarked from 2007 that combines both places.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...s-tangines.cfm
Nov 29th, 2010, 01:51 PM
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mvor: We love Paris as well and have tried to get there at least every other year. We loved people watching from the apt. window. I have my memories of drinking cava and eating little sandwiches from Mauri. I loved the café con leche and the people watching at Mauri when we had our breakfast. I never did make coffee at the apt. as they didn't have any filters and I couldn't find any at the few stores we stopped in.
oopsy: I'm seeing that Barcelona is still a bit under other cities, although Paris has some low (it's all relative)fares due to Iceland Air offering some lower prices on tickets. Glad to hear that we weren't the only ones that were turned off by Taller de Tapas. The service was bad. The waitress dropped a glass at a table next to us and it shattered and got on their food and she just grumbled and swore and took off for a broom; never said anything to the people at the table. They didn't complain, but they did check all their food for glass.
oopsy: I'm seeing that Barcelona is still a bit under other cities, although Paris has some low (it's all relative)fares due to Iceland Air offering some lower prices on tickets. Glad to hear that we weren't the only ones that were turned off by Taller de Tapas. The service was bad. The waitress dropped a glass at a table next to us and it shattered and got on their food and she just grumbled and swore and took off for a broom; never said anything to the people at the table. They didn't complain, but they did check all their food for glass.
Nov 29th, 2010, 02:54 PM
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opaldog, I drooled over the Mauri sammies but I don't eat meat and couldn't find one without 
We're tea drinkers so no coffee issues and I will admit that cava with apricot juice made it onto the breakfast menu a time or two.
Re: Taller de Tapas in Born, we had good tapas there and one nice waiter and one cranky pants; although we had cava at the Cataluyna location and the waiter splashed it all over my foot. We found that some tapas places were better for certain items than others, albeit we were eating only veg so they're presumably easier to make in general. For consistency we liked De Tapas Madre, Fodorite-favourite Cerveseria Catalana (although their tomato bread wasn't very good) and Ciutat Comtal. The staff at Cerveseria Catalana were extremely friendly.
On our last night we decided to have a late snack and drinks at La Bodgueta. A big mistake. It was filled with locals who seemed happy enough but the waiter was dreadfully slow. He actually had to flag down a large party that had moved from the in-door tiny bar to the outside tables who gave up on waiting for him to take their order and left without paying. Great entertainment. This was the really only bad food we had on the trip although the cava was good and we got to meet "Thomas" a neighborhood doggie (white fluff ball with a large dad) I'd been keeping my eye on.
Thanks for sharing your report with us - it's been so fun to relive our trip.
We're tea drinkers so no coffee issues and I will admit that cava with apricot juice made it onto the breakfast menu a time or two.Re: Taller de Tapas in Born, we had good tapas there and one nice waiter and one cranky pants; although we had cava at the Cataluyna location and the waiter splashed it all over my foot. We found that some tapas places were better for certain items than others, albeit we were eating only veg so they're presumably easier to make in general. For consistency we liked De Tapas Madre, Fodorite-favourite Cerveseria Catalana (although their tomato bread wasn't very good) and Ciutat Comtal. The staff at Cerveseria Catalana were extremely friendly.
On our last night we decided to have a late snack and drinks at La Bodgueta. A big mistake. It was filled with locals who seemed happy enough but the waiter was dreadfully slow. He actually had to flag down a large party that had moved from the in-door tiny bar to the outside tables who gave up on waiting for him to take their order and left without paying. Great entertainment. This was the really only bad food we had on the trip although the cava was good and we got to meet "Thomas" a neighborhood doggie (white fluff ball with a large dad) I'd been keeping my eye on.
Thanks for sharing your report with us - it's been so fun to relive our trip.
Nov 29th, 2010, 03:58 PM
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mvor: We also ate at La Bodegueta and enjoyed sitting and people watching from a different angle. The food was not so good. We had been watching the waiter from above for days. He had even waved to my husband who was standing at the apt. window looking down at his comings and goings. It was a very busy and popular place and I think it was all about location. We decided to make Ciudad Comdal our last night place to eat as we knew we would enjoy it and we were glad that we did. I forgot to mention that on our first day we stopped at Cerveseria Catalana for patatas bravas, shrimp on a skewer and a beer (Estrella). We sat outside and enjoyed being in a new country. We didn't go back but on our next trip we would like to go for a more thorough tapas tasting.
I enjoyed the dogs of Barcelona. There were just as many as in Paris. They also seemed to be more large dogs. Retrievers; Labrador and Golden seemed popular. I didn't see any of my favorite dog, the Boston Terrier (we own a sweet female named Dotty). There were lots of French Bulldogs, though.
I enjoyed the dogs of Barcelona. There were just as many as in Paris. They also seemed to be more large dogs. Retrievers; Labrador and Golden seemed popular. I didn't see any of my favorite dog, the Boston Terrier (we own a sweet female named Dotty). There were lots of French Bulldogs, though.
Nov 29th, 2010, 05:34 PM
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opaldog, Barcelona fares to seem to be a bit lower than other fares (that's actually how we ended up there last year; I got a vacation bug, and Barcelona and Lisbon were much, much lower than anything else in Europe). I know I can't expect fares as low as last year ($510 rt from O'Hare), but right now our dates are running about $800. I am confident they'll get lower.
Mvor, I'm almost vegetarian, so I'd appreciate any other eating out tips you have for Barcelona. Do you think you'll have time for a trip report?
Our late spot was a simple gelato/crepe spot by our apartment. Nothing like ending a perfect day with a monstrous nutella crepe.
Or a nice snack back on our terrace.
Mvor, I'm almost vegetarian, so I'd appreciate any other eating out tips you have for Barcelona. Do you think you'll have time for a trip report?
Our late spot was a simple gelato/crepe spot by our apartment. Nothing like ending a perfect day with a monstrous nutella crepe.
Or a nice snack back on our terrace.
Nov 29th, 2010, 08:04 PM
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Hi opaldog - thanks for a fun trip report and a chance to re-visit a great city.We were only in Barcelona four nights, and not under the best circumstances, but it was enough to know that it is a city we definitely want to return to. We were there last year at about the same time of year as you after one week in Rome followed by a one week cruise from Rome to Barcelona. In fact, one of your pictures show our boat - not the monster, but the four-masted motor sail yacht. (One of the Windstar boats.)Our favorite Tapas were also at Ciudad Condal!! It was recommended to us by our taxi driver that gave us a two hour city tour. He even wrote down what we should order;we followed his instructions exactly, and were very glad we did. We were staying in a hotel on Las Ramblas - fine for a four night stay, but I would move up to Ramblas Catalunya next time. Visiting the market made me wish I was in an apartment, as I would have liked to purchase some of those unbelievable hams and cheeses to make some dinners and lunches. Well, now I'm definitely ready to go back.
You're a dog lover, so you will understand what brought us down on our first visit. When we checked in with our dog-sitters upon arrival we learned that our Ridgeback mix was in the hospital. An e-mail the next day led us to believe it was possible he wouldn't make it. Well, you can imagine how that took the wind out of our sails. We knew there was nothing we could do from there, and we would be home in a couple days, so we tried to enjoy the last few days of our trip as much as possible, but our hearts just weren't in it. Well, I am happy to report that now, one year later, our boy is doing great (surprised his doctor and thrilled us) and I am getting wanderlust again. I wish he could come with us. We get lonesome with every dog we see. We have pictures of dogs in France, Italy...wherever we go!
Well, I, too, had no intentions of hijacking your thread, but I spotted a fellow dog-loving traveller!
You're a dog lover, so you will understand what brought us down on our first visit. When we checked in with our dog-sitters upon arrival we learned that our Ridgeback mix was in the hospital. An e-mail the next day led us to believe it was possible he wouldn't make it. Well, you can imagine how that took the wind out of our sails. We knew there was nothing we could do from there, and we would be home in a couple days, so we tried to enjoy the last few days of our trip as much as possible, but our hearts just weren't in it. Well, I am happy to report that now, one year later, our boy is doing great (surprised his doctor and thrilled us) and I am getting wanderlust again. I wish he could come with us. We get lonesome with every dog we see. We have pictures of dogs in France, Italy...wherever we go!
Well, I, too, had no intentions of hijacking your thread, but I spotted a fellow dog-loving traveller!
Nov 30th, 2010, 01:00 AM
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oopsy: The low fares are what got us to Barcelona as well. We paid $536! I don't think we will see that again anytime soon.
hanabilly: I totally understand how the bad news from home about your dog could put a damper on your trip. It would have been tempting to find an early flight home. This sounds corny but on my trips I bring photos of the family (of course that includes the dog) and display them on a desk or table in our apt. Rambla de Catalunya was a great neighborhood. I didn't know how I would like it as I thought it might be too upscale, but it was perfect for us. Apartments are the way to go, definitely try it next time you go to Barcelona.
hanabilly: I totally understand how the bad news from home about your dog could put a damper on your trip. It would have been tempting to find an early flight home. This sounds corny but on my trips I bring photos of the family (of course that includes the dog) and display them on a desk or table in our apt. Rambla de Catalunya was a great neighborhood. I didn't know how I would like it as I thought it might be too upscale, but it was perfect for us. Apartments are the way to go, definitely try it next time you go to Barcelona.
Nov 30th, 2010, 02:53 AM
#38
What a responsibility! Two Fodor's posters staying at an apartment I recommended, one after another. I am so glad to hear it all worked out well.
I'm almost tempted to engage in one of my favorite fantasy exercises: checking airfares from Boston.
I'm almost tempted to engage in one of my favorite fantasy exercises: checking airfares from Boston.
