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Our family of 4 in Languedoc

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Our family of 4 in Languedoc

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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 11:59 AM
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Backtracking a bit Here are some pictures from the ropes course(!) and from the caves. The cave pictures lose something in translation to the web I think, but should at least give a sense of what is there!

http://www.kodakgallery.ca/ShareLand...localeid=en_CA
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 12:43 PM
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I think the cave pictures are great! Of course, no photo can capture the atmosphere of a cave completely, but these are well lit and clear, and give a really good sense of it, especially the one with the people in it to give a sense of the scale.

I don't think that Margie would go for the ropes course. As she once said at an amusement park, when turning down some ride, "I don't pay to be anxious."
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 06:47 PM
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Cool cave pics and the kids look thrilled with the ropes course. I hope you all didn't hate Carcassonne.
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Old Jul 17th, 2009, 10:40 AM
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Still waiting for the next installment.. ;-)
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Old Jul 17th, 2009, 11:38 AM
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Yeah, Canada_V, you leave us hanging and you have the nerve to call that a trip report? *drums fingers impatiently on desk*
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Old Jul 17th, 2009, 12:25 PM
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Guilty as charged
The task is not forgotten or skipped over by choice! and the weekend promises to bring with it the mental and temporal bandwidth for me to get on track!

(and thanks for noticing )
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Old Jul 17th, 2009, 01:26 PM
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I've been out of town (Chicago to see the Harry Potter exhibit at the museum of Science and Industry-it was great), so I'm catching up on your adventures. You aren't afraid of much.

I went to the Grotto des Demoiselles twice in...1961 when I was doing a summer high school trip in Montpellier. Two different families took me there and I remember the funicular ride the most. I also remember that my favorite place to go that summer was Palavas les Flots. I was 15 at the time and took my first plane ride. I fell hard in love with France then.

Your young son is amazing to be able to scuba dive at 8! We tried scuba once in the Bahamas but didn't get beyond the fearful part. It is still a good memory. The fish, coral etc were colorful there.

I'm eagerly awaiting your opinion of Carcasonne. I think it's a good place to visit- it's so picturesque. I never got to take my kids there, but would have liked to.

Don't forget to tell us about the viaduct at Millau. I'll be there in September. I also am looking forward to your canoe trip. We did that as a family also, but in Alabama and NC. I bet you loved your time on the river.

Evelyn
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Old Jul 17th, 2009, 04:05 PM
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Efoss3, Margie and I will also be in the Millau area in September - specifically, we'll be staying in La Malène, in the Gorges du Tarn, from September 14 - 17.

I've been told that seeing the viaduct from the ground is more impressive than driving over it. Driving over it is like driving on any highway, although it must have a decent view (unless the railings deliberately block it so as not to distract the driver). We'll see what Canada_V thinks, if they indeed drove over it.
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Old Jul 18th, 2009, 05:41 PM
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OK... minor catastrophe… I can’t find my notebook anywhere! Actually, it is just proof of how the digital camera acted as an excellent ‘journal’ itself, as going through the pictures is letting me put the pieces together!

So off we go to Carcassonne…

<b>The drive to Carcassonne</b>

I had picked a driving route that had enough bendy bits, ‘green highlighting’ on my Michelin map and viewpoint signs to keep DH and I happily in driving holiday mode, but wasn’t so long, or without ‘escape routes’ that the kids would find it unbearable (remembering back to my driving holidays in the back of my parents car! We went from Adge on pretty direct D roads, bypassing Beziers, and up through to St Chinian. The drive up was very pleasant - nice sleepy looking towns with a stony feel of history. Approaching St Chinian the countryside started to get hillier – and we came across a viewpoint with a memorial plaque with the comment “this was his views” for a man from Welland, Ontario (about an hour and a half drive from where we are who had obviously lived, and died, in St Chinian One of those roadside stories that makes me imagine who he was, why he was in France, and why he had died young (which I suppose is what a good ‘inspired by friends’ memorial should do. We didn’t actually go “into” St Chinian, but the view over top was very attractive – with a ‘settlement nestled in the wooded valley’ feel to it. I found it difficult to judge the ages of buildings, because they didn’t follow the same cues of style and building materials that I would use (though I didn’t realize I used until I had was trying to do it in France!) to date buildings and communities here. It looked as though there was new building happening and I thought some of the dwellings we were overlooking looked freshly built - but again, I found it hard to guess, especially from up high! There was definitely a prosperous and ‘alive’ feel to what we saw – lots of vineyards and successful looking wineries.

We continued up around past St Pons de Thomieres, and then down on the windy, scenic D920. It was a lovely, woody, hilly, bendy drive (discovering in the process that 11 year A had inherited my ‘reading in the backseat of a European car makes me feel sick’ gene, while somehow 8 year old B had not!) Passed through several tiny ‘villages’ or at least small clusters of houses, many of which looked as though they were probably holiday rentals – they looked well kept up but not ‘well used’ - if that makes sense! We stopped at a really nice viewpoint called Roc Suzadou and had a picnic lunch. The point was a 720m elevation, clamber-able rock formation overlooking a valley of woods, gorse and fields. Gorgeous day and gorgeous peaceful view!

We continued on through charming “appear around the bend” villages - in particular Lepinassiere and Citou – with it’s Cathar castle ruin at the top of the skyline - were really attractive. The villages felt isolated each from each other - not necessarily in a bad way. These days, I always wonder about these places – not just in France, but I have the same thoughts traveling past small communities in Canada once you pass the obvious ‘commuter belts’. Places where you wonder ‘what do the people living here do to make a living?’ and ‘what would keep the next generation of young people here?’. It seems even more poignant with these stone buildings and villages and towns with histories going back many hundreds of years. Really lovely locations - and a very enjoyable drive!

<b>Carcassonne… </b>

We hadn’t had high expectations of Carcassonne, except as a ‘destination’, but we actually had a really good visit - enjoyed by all! It was definitely a ‘tourist attraction’, but we enjoyed it, and it was a good ‘history discussion catalyst’ with the kids. We didn’t actually spend to much time walking through the Cite itself – we weren’t interested in the ‘touristy stuff’ and honestly, since we were actually staying in a ‘medieval town’ with Agde, we ‘didn’t need’ to experience the higgledy piggley streets etc, so I think that also limited our exposure to being overly touristed by it!

We bought tickets for the ramparts and castle and did a self guided tour. Lots of interesting architectural and ‘defenses’ history, and an chance to consider the layering of history on history – even the the restoration itself was of historical interest (remember our Canadian 150 years is history perspective!) There was a good little video/movie that gave a “all the history in 5 minutes” type overview – French with English (and German and I think Spanish) subtitles. As we walked around the ramparts, we could see dark clouds gathering, and feel the air in the up until then beautiful day turning cooler, and partway through our tour, the skies opened with a dramatic swirling wind, pounding rain storm! Nothing that impacted our visit though, though it sort of rained on and off for the rest of the time we were there, it just added an air of drama dashing from ‘covered section’ to ‘covered section’, and we were happier to have had the rain now then when we were wending our way through the mountains earlier in the day!

We then visited the Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus (formerly the cathedral of the old city, back in the day!), which turned out to the families favourite ‘church visit’ of the trip (which included Notre Dame and Sacre Coure in Paris!). I think in large part that was because this was the quietest and most peaceful church that we visited. It was also very interesting to ‘scavenger hunt’ from the English language handout the different elements from different eras. We aren’t a ‘church-going’ family, but the visit to the church, especially with the back drop of what had just been learned about the crusades of the Catholic church against the Cathars, was the catalyst to a long discussion on spirituality vs faith vs religion vs ‘institutions of religion’ (moreso with 11 year old A).

We finished off our visit by exploring the “Lices” or sort of no mans land between the inner and outer city walls. (Well, some might call it exploring, and others call it getting lost trying to find an alternate exit!)

I think our June trip timing was a very good one for this kind of place. We arrived at mid to late afternoon, and while it was definitely hopping with tourists, it wasn’t overwhelmed by them. There were no obvious tour groups, and as we went around the walls and through the castle it never seemed busy. The only strange feeling I got was – is it a real place where people live or is it just a large attraction? There were definitely houses you could see from the ramparts that looked like they were ‘homes’, but maybe they were B&B’s. It almost seemed strange that there were 4* hotels within the walls. Or maybe it was just the idea of a walled city that seemed strange (not bad, but the fact of the walls added its own character of containment).

Since coming home, I’ve been reading Kate Mosse's book, Sepluchre, which is set in the area, and it was great to be able to put physical visuals to the scenes in Carcassonne!

<b>Home to Agde</b>

We decided not to eat in Carcassonne, but to “hightail it” back to Agde through the intermittent rain. In Agde there were a series of restaurants down beside the River Herault which all had a floating boat/raft type section floating on the river, across the pedestrian street from the restaurant proper, so we chose one and had a great meal! 14E menu for each of DH and I, and the kids each had the 7E kids menu. B opted for his now favourite steak hache (au point, SVP), though A said he wasn’t feeling very well, and went with chicken nuggets (we both tried to convince both of them to go with the fish and frites, and the fish was fresh… but to no avail). I had a delicious fish soup to start and a fresh tuna for the main course. DH had a seafood salad, and a Carmagues bull stew which was excellent, but a HUGE portion, and very rich (a bit too much, he said, though he polished it off !). Crème caramel for dessert – I don’t have a huge sweet tooth, but it was yummy!

A final nightcap of swift/swallow watching, and off to bed!

So overall summary – the drive through the ‘foothills of the Black mountains” (I supposed) Carcassonne turned out to be an excellent day trip, and I think our realistic expectations of Carcassonne itself meant it turned out to be a pleasant surprise!

<i>next Pont du Gard (will an under the weather child ) </i>
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Old Jul 19th, 2009, 07:17 AM
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It would be interesting for you to compare the intra muros part of Carcassonne with the intra muros part of Avignon -- then you will see the incredible difference between a tourist attraction place (Carcassonne) and a historical place that is still very much lived in (Avignon).

Hey, I was at the Pont du Gard this week -- since it's only 25km from Avignon. As lovely as ever but definitely 'tourist hell' in mid-July.
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Old Jul 19th, 2009, 07:39 AM
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We'll be in the general area in September, but in our conversations, somehow Margie and I aren't particularly eager to return to the Pont du Gard, having been there on a previous trip. It's a fabulous site and sight, and I'm glad we went. But having seen it once, I'm not sure what we would gain by returning, when we could use the time for other things.

I've only been to Carcassonne once, and that was in 1960 (!). I stayed one night there, in a hotel near the station, on my first trip to France, on a language study program. We had arrived by boat in Marseille, and were on our way to Pau, half the group in a van, and the other half by train.

I was in the van, and the train arrived <i>without</i> the rest of our group! We waited around the rest of the day to try to figure out what had happened. While we waited, the group leader was heard to muse:

"What a place to lose half the group - the <i>Hotel Terminus</i> in <i>Carcassonne</i>!"

It turned out the group had been delayed by <i>une manifestation</i> (a demonstration) in which a group of farmers had driven their tractors onto the tracks in Carcassonne, and delayed the train. This caused the group to miss their connection (we had forgotten they had a connection). Somehow, the group leader's somewhat ditsy wife had not bother to phone anyone to tell them what was happening.
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Old Jul 19th, 2009, 10:04 AM
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I will sort of defend the ditsy wife: It was VERY difficult to find a telephone in France in those days.
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Old Jul 19th, 2009, 01:31 PM
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Loving this report!
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Old Jul 19th, 2009, 02:11 PM
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hi canada

just came across your great report - bringing back memories of the trip DH and I took round France MANY years ago, and ending up in Agde. I have a recollection of staying in an old hotel for a night and getting stuck in a traffic jam along the corniche to cap agde [which we had no idea had nudist conotations] when every time I didn't stick closely to the bumper of the car in front, we were "beeped" by the car behind, even though there was no chance of going anywhere. LOL.

clearly we missed a lot by only spending a night there, and heading for Avignon the next day. and what a lovely house you found.

looking forward to more,

regards, ann
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Old Jul 19th, 2009, 03:22 PM
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Canada V

I just got back from a week up at a cottage in Northern Ontario and have enjoyed the last couple of hours catching up on your trip report. I feel like I have taken this trip with you...it is so well written! You have whetted my apetite for Paris and can't wait for our upcoming trip!

I am sure this will be a holiday that your family will talk about for years to come... Joanne
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Old Jul 19th, 2009, 04:12 PM
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Canada V I hope you have found your notebook!

Justretired- we'll be in Millau on the first couple of days in September. We both made our first trip to France in the early sixties when there was some political unrest. I still remember how hard making a call on a French phone was.

My tour/study group traveled together by bus and we didn't get separated that I recall.
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Old Jul 19th, 2009, 05:34 PM
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Here are some pictures from our day in Carcassonne.

http://www.kodakgallery.ca/ShareLand...localeid=en_CA

Thanks to everyone for your interest and your posts!

I really like the connections that can be made - hearing that kerouac was at Pont du Gard - a place I can now say I've been to and know; knowing that efoss3 aka evelyn and justretired aka Larry are <u>going to be</u> at Millau; etc. Being able to do this trip report means being able to 'share' the experience, not just <i>tell</i> about it...

No notebook yet though but it can't have gone too far...
One thing I'm finding is that next trip we take we will try and take even more 'recording' where we are even if there isn't anything to 'photograph' type photos, and 'establishing shots'. Especially with the digital camera (where there is no cost to taking an extra picture!) I think it would have been even better to take more 'names of villages' type shots - not so relevant for Paris, but would be great for this Languedoc week (though maybe if I could find my notebook, I wouldn't notice!) We have lots of 'nice' photos, but I think even more 'documentary' photos would be even better!



P.S. jodej - where in Northern Ontario were you?
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Old Jul 19th, 2009, 05:50 PM
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Justretired,

Re Millau viaduct... definitely cool to drive over but you don't end up seeing much. ;^( The sides are some kind of airfoils designed to help stabilize the bridge but they do a good job of blocking the view. ;^( Do a search on Youtube and you'll see lots of videos.

There's a viewing area on the north side of the Tarn along with an info center. And of course you can go right below into Millau.

We stopped in la Malene for an hour in the summer of 2008.... I loved the Tarn and hope to return before long. You won't be disappointed I'm sure.

Canada_V... redouble your efforts to find that notebook! ;^)

Rob
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Old Jul 19th, 2009, 06:29 PM
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Love the blowing in the wind photo!
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Old Jul 20th, 2009, 03:41 AM
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I know what you mean about documentary photos. On our recent trip my husband took a picture of the side of a trash can because it had the name of the town on it. We found it funny, but it did establish where we were.
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