Our Fall Trip to Paris & the Dordogne
Nov 12th, 2008, 06:25 AM
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Our Fall Trip to Paris & the Dordogne
Hello everyone,
We returned from France a week ago � we were in Paris for three days and the Dordogne and Lot, for ten days. We had a great trip � many thanks to all who gave advice and all who wrote trip reports that were most helpful in the planning stages.
We (my husband and I) have traveled in France for ten years, but this was our first time in the Dordogne/Lot. We enjoyed it very much and would highly recommend the area. We have mostly traveled during this time of year � the last two weeks in October � and find it a great time to travel as there aren�t too many tourists in the more touristy areas such as Rocamadour and St-Cirq-Lapopie. These two places were virtually empty � so we had the streets to ourselves! The only downside is that many of the stores and restaurants were closed, and a few of the attractions were either closed or had reduced hours � so it is advised to check websites for opening times during this time of year.
Rather than a day-by-day report, I thought I would just give some information that might be helpful to anyone planning a trip to this area.
<b>Weather</b>
Traveling during the fall season can be wonderful or not � just like any other season! We had two beautiful, sunny days in Paris � and one day of rain and cold. We had some of the same in the Dordogne � eight nice days and two rainy days. We actually had snow early one morning � but it was just rainy the rest of the day. We also had a good deal of fog � one morning it was especially foggy and didn�t burn off until early afternoon. The rest of the day was sunny and beautiful, however.
<b>Packing</b>
People always are wondering about what to pack. We find that taking layers works the best for us. I packed an all-weather coat and a lightweight fleece jacket which was perfect in the caves in the Dordogne. I also took lightweight fleece gloves and a warm scarf. Some days were warm enough that the coat/jacket stayed mostly in the car. Other days, they were worn all day. Also took umbrellas which were needed on all those rainy days.
We returned from France a week ago � we were in Paris for three days and the Dordogne and Lot, for ten days. We had a great trip � many thanks to all who gave advice and all who wrote trip reports that were most helpful in the planning stages.
We (my husband and I) have traveled in France for ten years, but this was our first time in the Dordogne/Lot. We enjoyed it very much and would highly recommend the area. We have mostly traveled during this time of year � the last two weeks in October � and find it a great time to travel as there aren�t too many tourists in the more touristy areas such as Rocamadour and St-Cirq-Lapopie. These two places were virtually empty � so we had the streets to ourselves! The only downside is that many of the stores and restaurants were closed, and a few of the attractions were either closed or had reduced hours � so it is advised to check websites for opening times during this time of year.
Rather than a day-by-day report, I thought I would just give some information that might be helpful to anyone planning a trip to this area.
<b>Weather</b>
Traveling during the fall season can be wonderful or not � just like any other season! We had two beautiful, sunny days in Paris � and one day of rain and cold. We had some of the same in the Dordogne � eight nice days and two rainy days. We actually had snow early one morning � but it was just rainy the rest of the day. We also had a good deal of fog � one morning it was especially foggy and didn�t burn off until early afternoon. The rest of the day was sunny and beautiful, however.
<b>Packing</b>
People always are wondering about what to pack. We find that taking layers works the best for us. I packed an all-weather coat and a lightweight fleece jacket which was perfect in the caves in the Dordogne. I also took lightweight fleece gloves and a warm scarf. Some days were warm enough that the coat/jacket stayed mostly in the car. Other days, they were worn all day. Also took umbrellas which were needed on all those rainy days.
Nov 12th, 2008, 06:31 AM
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<b>Transportation</b>
Some of you may remember that I researched the transportation quite a bit. Thanks to all who gave advice – I appreciated the help.
Our flights were <b>American Airlines</b> and were what we expected flying coach. They were purchased with miles, and the taxes were about $150 for both. I reserved 330 days out, so got the tickets I wanted. The only hitch was that American cancelled flights from our airport which caused us to have a long lay-over both ways at DFW. American is cutting back on flights on the American Eagle. Our airport went from six flights a day to four flights a day. The only difference that I noticed during the flight was a cutback on snacks and smaller meal portions. My advice is to take some snacks with you.
We ended up taking a <b>taxi</b> from CDG to the 5th at a cost of 54€. I wanted to try the RER, but in the end just spent the money on the taxi. It is just so easy after that long flight (which included a five hour layover and then a 9-l/2 hour flight). We arrived a little early, walked quickly through Passport Control with our carry-on luggage, and straight to the taxi – no waiting. We were at our apartment in the 5th in just over an hour after landing!
We bought one carnet of tickets for the <b>Metro</b> and then another six individual tickets. So that was a total of 8 tickets each for three days in Paris.
We took the <b>train</b> from Gare d’Austerlitz to Brive. The tickets were <b>PREMS</b> that I had purchased three months in advance on SNCF website for 17€ apiece. Thanks to all who give such good help on purchasing train tickets! Next time I will research how to select seats that face forward rather than backwards!
We ended up going with <b>Europcar</b> for the car rental. I had many doubts about Europcar and their new policy of returning the car empty. The broker was <b>Kemwel</b>. The agency was down the street about a block from the train station in Brive. Very convenient. So far, it has worked out okay – still have my fingers crossed that there aren’t any bogus charges that come through later.
<b>GPS</b>
We purchased a <b>Garmin Nuvi 670</b> a few months back with our France trip in mind. It was wonderful! It made our trip so much more pleasant. I wish we had had one on all those other trips! Of course, we still made a few wrong turns, but the GPS would recalculate and get us right back on course. We still had our maps and consulted them from time to time, but it was so much easier with the GPS. One other plus was that it would beep and warn every time there was a traffic camera. And I must say, they are everywhere – all over France!
<b>Currency Exchange</b>
This is always a popular topic on Fodor’s – and there are many options. We have done a number of the options through the years. This time we arrived with nothing in our pockets except (5) $20 bills in case the <b>ATM</b> at the airport didn’t work. It worked fine, and we withdrew money at many ATM’s without any problem. I knew where my bank’s ATM’s were as I had researched on the website before leaving. We withdrew cash every few days as needed and paid for everything in cash. We stayed in apartments, B&B’s and Gites, and therefore were required to pay in cash. Since our credit cards charge 2-3%, we preferred to deal in cash as the charge at the ATM is only 1%. As long as I used the BNP ATM’s, we didn’t pay a fee. We never carried much cash on us, just enough for the day. My husband wore a money belt when we had very much cash – as on the day we traveled by train to Brive.
Some of you may remember that I researched the transportation quite a bit. Thanks to all who gave advice – I appreciated the help.
Our flights were <b>American Airlines</b> and were what we expected flying coach. They were purchased with miles, and the taxes were about $150 for both. I reserved 330 days out, so got the tickets I wanted. The only hitch was that American cancelled flights from our airport which caused us to have a long lay-over both ways at DFW. American is cutting back on flights on the American Eagle. Our airport went from six flights a day to four flights a day. The only difference that I noticed during the flight was a cutback on snacks and smaller meal portions. My advice is to take some snacks with you.
We ended up taking a <b>taxi</b> from CDG to the 5th at a cost of 54€. I wanted to try the RER, but in the end just spent the money on the taxi. It is just so easy after that long flight (which included a five hour layover and then a 9-l/2 hour flight). We arrived a little early, walked quickly through Passport Control with our carry-on luggage, and straight to the taxi – no waiting. We were at our apartment in the 5th in just over an hour after landing!
We bought one carnet of tickets for the <b>Metro</b> and then another six individual tickets. So that was a total of 8 tickets each for three days in Paris.
We took the <b>train</b> from Gare d’Austerlitz to Brive. The tickets were <b>PREMS</b> that I had purchased three months in advance on SNCF website for 17€ apiece. Thanks to all who give such good help on purchasing train tickets! Next time I will research how to select seats that face forward rather than backwards!
We ended up going with <b>Europcar</b> for the car rental. I had many doubts about Europcar and their new policy of returning the car empty. The broker was <b>Kemwel</b>. The agency was down the street about a block from the train station in Brive. Very convenient. So far, it has worked out okay – still have my fingers crossed that there aren’t any bogus charges that come through later.
<b>GPS</b>
We purchased a <b>Garmin Nuvi 670</b> a few months back with our France trip in mind. It was wonderful! It made our trip so much more pleasant. I wish we had had one on all those other trips! Of course, we still made a few wrong turns, but the GPS would recalculate and get us right back on course. We still had our maps and consulted them from time to time, but it was so much easier with the GPS. One other plus was that it would beep and warn every time there was a traffic camera. And I must say, they are everywhere – all over France!
<b>Currency Exchange</b>
This is always a popular topic on Fodor’s – and there are many options. We have done a number of the options through the years. This time we arrived with nothing in our pockets except (5) $20 bills in case the <b>ATM</b> at the airport didn’t work. It worked fine, and we withdrew money at many ATM’s without any problem. I knew where my bank’s ATM’s were as I had researched on the website before leaving. We withdrew cash every few days as needed and paid for everything in cash. We stayed in apartments, B&B’s and Gites, and therefore were required to pay in cash. Since our credit cards charge 2-3%, we preferred to deal in cash as the charge at the ATM is only 1%. As long as I used the BNP ATM’s, we didn’t pay a fee. We never carried much cash on us, just enough for the day. My husband wore a money belt when we had very much cash – as on the day we traveled by train to Brive.
Nov 12th, 2008, 07:27 AM
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blh - enjoying your trip report. Reading it made me realize there was a lot of things in common we did on our recent trip. We also got PREM tickets (to Angers) and they were easy to purchase after reading all the posts here. We also flew AA though our flight was much shorter since we fly out of Boston. We also bought a Garmin 670 mainly because of our trip! And lastly, we paid almost everything w/cash (except 2 hotel bills) and never had trouble finding a BNP Paribas bank.
Looking forward to the rest.
Looking forward to the rest.
Nov 12th, 2008, 12:10 PM
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Thanks, yk. I have always enjoyed your trip reports. And yes, it seems like we have a lot in common while traveling! Guess we budget travelers think alike!
Continuing from above:
<b>Cellphones</b>
We took my old cellphone with an Estonian SIM purchased for our last trip. www.acetelecomstore.com Last trip we use CallBack World to keep the costs down. Unfortunately, CBW no longer services Estonian SIM cards. I decided we would just use what minutes I had left on the SIM, and supplement with text messages from my AT&T current phone.
This was a mistake as the phone was useless outside Paris (where it wasn't needed as we had the free phone at the apartment). I suppose AT&T phones may work elsewhere in France, but not in the Dordogne. It showed that it was getting a signal, but would not send or receive text messages or calls. Next trip, I will plan on using the Estonian SIM as it worked just fine.
Also, AT&T had told me it would be 20 cents to receive text messages and 50 cents to send them. They forgot to mention the roaming charges - I never have any roaming charges in the US, so didn't think about that internationally. In the end, it would have been cheaper to use the phone with the Estonian SIM.
Continuing from above:
<b>Cellphones</b>
We took my old cellphone with an Estonian SIM purchased for our last trip. www.acetelecomstore.com Last trip we use CallBack World to keep the costs down. Unfortunately, CBW no longer services Estonian SIM cards. I decided we would just use what minutes I had left on the SIM, and supplement with text messages from my AT&T current phone.
This was a mistake as the phone was useless outside Paris (where it wasn't needed as we had the free phone at the apartment). I suppose AT&T phones may work elsewhere in France, but not in the Dordogne. It showed that it was getting a signal, but would not send or receive text messages or calls. Next trip, I will plan on using the Estonian SIM as it worked just fine.
Also, AT&T had told me it would be 20 cents to receive text messages and 50 cents to send them. They forgot to mention the roaming charges - I never have any roaming charges in the US, so didn't think about that internationally. In the end, it would have been cheaper to use the phone with the Estonian SIM.
Nov 12th, 2008, 12:45 PM
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<b>Apartments, B&B’s, & Gites</b>
<b>Paris – Our Little Home in Paris</b>
www.ourlittlehomeinparis.com
17, rue Rollin 5eme
Sandy and Philippe were the perfect hosts. The tiny apartment had everything a person could need. Although small, the apartment had all the essentials plus many extras – a computer, a phone (free calls to US), and a TV with English channels. The area was wonderful – less than a block to Place Contrescarpe where there was plenty of action – lots of restaurants and cafes. Two metros within a couple of blocks. The apartment was on the 2nd floor (American) and was very quiet – on a residential street with no car traffic.
Cost was 80€ per night.
<b>Gramat – Moulin de Fresquet</b>
www.moulindefresquet.com
This is a beautiful little B&B located just outside Gramat which is very convenient to Rocamadour and Gouffre de Padirac. The setting is just wonderful, and we would have enjoyed it more in the spring or summer when we could have sat outside in the gardens by the mill stream. Our room was “The Rock” which opened into the garden. From the main level, there was a winding staircase down to our room. If stairs are a problem, I would suggest asking for a different room. The breakfast in the dining room was very nice, and although we didn’t have an opportunity to eat the dinner that is served on some nights, we were told by other guests that the food was wonderful.
Cost was 76€ per night.
<b>Cabrerets – Un Jardin dans la Falaise</b>
www.unjardindanslafalaise.com
This was a wonderful little B&B in Cabrerets which was literally “a garden in the cliffs”.
There were beautiful views into the Cele valley. It was only a few minutes drive to Pech Merle and St Cirq Lapopie. The served a wonderful dinner which we enjoyed very much. Also, the breakfast was quite good.
Cost was 60€ for our “garden room”, and 40€ (for two) for our dinner with wine included.
<b>Sarlat – La Villa des Consuls</b>
www.villaconsuls.com
We had the Fenelon attic studio apartment which was a large room with a full kitchen, a sofa, dinette set, and queen size bed. The only problem for me was the stairs – winding and up three floors. There were washers and dryers on the ground floor across from the office, and they were free. This was great! Also, there was a computer that was available for a small fee. There was no parking by the hotel, so you had to find parking on the street (no place close to the hotel to unload luggage). There were also rooms available as well as apartments.
Cost was 85€ per night.
<b>Montignac – Le Libellule</b>
www.gite-lalibellule.com
This was a beautiful little gite in the countryside less than five minutes from Montignac. It has a large kitchen/breakfast room, a living room, a bedroom, and bath. There is also a laundry room with a washer and dryer. The setting in the country is very beautiful, and once again had the weather been warmer, we would have enjoyed eating on the patio and cooking on the grill. We really enjoyed the market day in Montignac, and bought food to eat at home. The owners of the gite are American and French.
Cost was a bargain 35€ a night! Best deal ever!
Special thanks to Fodorite <b>Jojonana</b> who recommended the B&B in Cabrerets and the gite in Montignac. As some of you may remember, I had a hard time deciding where to stay on this trip – whether to stay in the countryside or the “city”. As it turned out, we did a little of both which we enjoyed very much. We wanted to stay in Sarlat to enjoy the village after dark and the variety of restaurants, etc. But we also wanted to stay in the countryside as we also enjoy the advantages there. Couldn’t have asked for more!
Thanks as well to <b>Stu Dudley</b> for his Dordogne Itinerary which we put to good use.
<b>Paris – CDG Airport Sheraton</b>
We stayed here on Starwood points + cash. It was a great place and very convenient to walk out the door and into the airport. Sure made getting to the airport easy! We have always taken a taxi to the airport on prior trips – I have to say this was the easiest departure we have ever had. I would certainly do it again.
<b>Paris – Our Little Home in Paris</b>
www.ourlittlehomeinparis.com
17, rue Rollin 5eme
Sandy and Philippe were the perfect hosts. The tiny apartment had everything a person could need. Although small, the apartment had all the essentials plus many extras – a computer, a phone (free calls to US), and a TV with English channels. The area was wonderful – less than a block to Place Contrescarpe where there was plenty of action – lots of restaurants and cafes. Two metros within a couple of blocks. The apartment was on the 2nd floor (American) and was very quiet – on a residential street with no car traffic.
Cost was 80€ per night.
<b>Gramat – Moulin de Fresquet</b>
www.moulindefresquet.com
This is a beautiful little B&B located just outside Gramat which is very convenient to Rocamadour and Gouffre de Padirac. The setting is just wonderful, and we would have enjoyed it more in the spring or summer when we could have sat outside in the gardens by the mill stream. Our room was “The Rock” which opened into the garden. From the main level, there was a winding staircase down to our room. If stairs are a problem, I would suggest asking for a different room. The breakfast in the dining room was very nice, and although we didn’t have an opportunity to eat the dinner that is served on some nights, we were told by other guests that the food was wonderful.
Cost was 76€ per night.
<b>Cabrerets – Un Jardin dans la Falaise</b>
www.unjardindanslafalaise.com
This was a wonderful little B&B in Cabrerets which was literally “a garden in the cliffs”.
There were beautiful views into the Cele valley. It was only a few minutes drive to Pech Merle and St Cirq Lapopie. The served a wonderful dinner which we enjoyed very much. Also, the breakfast was quite good.
Cost was 60€ for our “garden room”, and 40€ (for two) for our dinner with wine included.
<b>Sarlat – La Villa des Consuls</b>
www.villaconsuls.com
We had the Fenelon attic studio apartment which was a large room with a full kitchen, a sofa, dinette set, and queen size bed. The only problem for me was the stairs – winding and up three floors. There were washers and dryers on the ground floor across from the office, and they were free. This was great! Also, there was a computer that was available for a small fee. There was no parking by the hotel, so you had to find parking on the street (no place close to the hotel to unload luggage). There were also rooms available as well as apartments.
Cost was 85€ per night.
<b>Montignac – Le Libellule</b>
www.gite-lalibellule.com
This was a beautiful little gite in the countryside less than five minutes from Montignac. It has a large kitchen/breakfast room, a living room, a bedroom, and bath. There is also a laundry room with a washer and dryer. The setting in the country is very beautiful, and once again had the weather been warmer, we would have enjoyed eating on the patio and cooking on the grill. We really enjoyed the market day in Montignac, and bought food to eat at home. The owners of the gite are American and French.
Cost was a bargain 35€ a night! Best deal ever!
Special thanks to Fodorite <b>Jojonana</b> who recommended the B&B in Cabrerets and the gite in Montignac. As some of you may remember, I had a hard time deciding where to stay on this trip – whether to stay in the countryside or the “city”. As it turned out, we did a little of both which we enjoyed very much. We wanted to stay in Sarlat to enjoy the village after dark and the variety of restaurants, etc. But we also wanted to stay in the countryside as we also enjoy the advantages there. Couldn’t have asked for more!
Thanks as well to <b>Stu Dudley</b> for his Dordogne Itinerary which we put to good use.
<b>Paris – CDG Airport Sheraton</b>
We stayed here on Starwood points + cash. It was a great place and very convenient to walk out the door and into the airport. Sure made getting to the airport easy! We have always taken a taxi to the airport on prior trips – I have to say this was the easiest departure we have ever had. I would certainly do it again.
Nov 12th, 2008, 02:30 PM
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Thans, St Cirq. Glad to hear your AT&T phone works in the Dordogne. Can't imagine why mine wouldn't work. It just kept saying it was unable to send the messages. Guess it was just my phone! It started working on the toll road about halfway to Paris. I had messages that were ten days old!
Nov 12th, 2008, 02:38 PM
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<b>WHAT WE DID</b>
<b>PARIS</b>
We spent most of our time in Paris just enjoying the neighborhoods, sitting in the cafes, walking in the parks and along the Seine, through the flower market, etc. We really enjoyed the energy of the area around Place Contrescarpe. When we arrived at about 11:00 am on Sunday, there was a big crowd in the square – a flea market was set up everywhere, and many people were looking at the wares as well as sitting in the cafes. It was a beautiful sunny day. Later we walked over to Luxembourg gardens where it seemed all of Paris was out enjoying the beautiful day. We had hoped to spend more time in some of the other gardens, but when it rained on our last day, we went to the Petit Palais and BHV department store instead. Always have a rainy day plan!
<b>GRAMAT</b>
From Gramat, we saw many villages in the area – Collonges-la-Rouge, Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, Autoire, Loubressac, Carennac, Martel, and Rocamadour. We also saw the caves at Padirac. It is a beautiful area, and we loved all the villages. Leaving Gramat, we stopped in Figeac for a couple of hours, and were impressed with all the little shops, cafes, etc. Driving on to Cabrerets by way of the Cele river route, we once again enjoyed many beautiful villages along the way – we stopped for a pique nique lunch (which we had purchased before leaving Figeac) in Espagnac St Eulalie. A beautiful place to stop, and we were glad we had our lunch with us as we never saw any kind of café or restaurant for lunch anywhere. This whole area is so scenic and beautiful. We just took our time, driving from village to village, stopping for photos, and enjoying the countryside. There were times that we didn’t see another car for miles – or anyone in the villages. It was very surreal.
<b>CABRERETS</b>
We drove over to Pech Merle and saw the wonderful cave paintings. Went on to St Cirq Lapopie and had the town to ourselves! Such an amazing place! Had to take a zillion pictures! Leaving Cabrerets, we took a very scenic drive to Sarlat. Such beautiful country! Once again, we were the only vehicle for miles at a time.
<b>SARLAT</b>
We arrived in Sarlat during the Saturday morning market – finally found a parking spot, and enjoyed shopping at the lively market. Here is where all the cars and people were!!!
From Sarlat, we went to Castlenaud, Jardens de Marqueyssac, La Roque Gegeac, Baynac, Les Milandes, and Domme. They were all great, and we enjoyed each place. Fortunately, the weather was beautiful most of the time. Especially the Sunday that we went to Castlenaud, Marqueyssac and took the boat ride on the Dordogne from La Roque Gegeac. It was totally foggy that morning, but cleared a little after noon.
We had lunch at the little Creperie at Castlenaud. There was a beautiful view of the valley from the restaurant. They also had outside dining – but it was too cool to eat outside. We had crepes which were delicious! The afternoon was sunny and so perfect in the Jardens and on the boat ride. Many many people were out and about in the afternoon.
The next day at Les Milandes, it was raining, so we didn’t get to see a falcon show. But the chateau was so interesting, and we were able to take pictures in the gardens before the rain started. We ate lunch at the little Brasserie at the Chateau – Les Machicoulis - which was fun – they had just finished work on the Brasserie this year. They (new owners) have really done a lot of restorative work on Les Milandes in the last two years.
Our morning in Domme was great – such great views! We really liked the village itself – cute shops, plenty of restaurants, etc. We enjoyed our lunch at Pot de Fer. Domme would be a good place to stay.
<b>MONTIGNAC</b>
We enjoyed the market day in Montignac as well as the cafes, restaurants, etc. Montignac is a great little village, and we liked staying nearby. It’s big enough that it has plenty to offer, but still has a small feel to it. We toured Lascaux II and thought it was very well done. We would have appreciated an English tour, but guess they don’t have one this late in the year.
We drove up to Hautefort Castle one afternoon (only open from 2 pm to 6pm in October) and very much enjoyed the beautiful grounds and castle. On our last day we drove over to Brantome and thought it was a picture-perfect little town. It was market day there as well, so town was crowded and bustling. It was warm and sunny, and we took plenty of photos. This was the day after we woke up to snow! What a difference a day makes! We drove back to Montignac through Les Enzies which we thought was quite touristy.
<b>PARIS</b>
We spent most of our time in Paris just enjoying the neighborhoods, sitting in the cafes, walking in the parks and along the Seine, through the flower market, etc. We really enjoyed the energy of the area around Place Contrescarpe. When we arrived at about 11:00 am on Sunday, there was a big crowd in the square – a flea market was set up everywhere, and many people were looking at the wares as well as sitting in the cafes. It was a beautiful sunny day. Later we walked over to Luxembourg gardens where it seemed all of Paris was out enjoying the beautiful day. We had hoped to spend more time in some of the other gardens, but when it rained on our last day, we went to the Petit Palais and BHV department store instead. Always have a rainy day plan!
<b>GRAMAT</b>
From Gramat, we saw many villages in the area – Collonges-la-Rouge, Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, Autoire, Loubressac, Carennac, Martel, and Rocamadour. We also saw the caves at Padirac. It is a beautiful area, and we loved all the villages. Leaving Gramat, we stopped in Figeac for a couple of hours, and were impressed with all the little shops, cafes, etc. Driving on to Cabrerets by way of the Cele river route, we once again enjoyed many beautiful villages along the way – we stopped for a pique nique lunch (which we had purchased before leaving Figeac) in Espagnac St Eulalie. A beautiful place to stop, and we were glad we had our lunch with us as we never saw any kind of café or restaurant for lunch anywhere. This whole area is so scenic and beautiful. We just took our time, driving from village to village, stopping for photos, and enjoying the countryside. There were times that we didn’t see another car for miles – or anyone in the villages. It was very surreal.
<b>CABRERETS</b>
We drove over to Pech Merle and saw the wonderful cave paintings. Went on to St Cirq Lapopie and had the town to ourselves! Such an amazing place! Had to take a zillion pictures! Leaving Cabrerets, we took a very scenic drive to Sarlat. Such beautiful country! Once again, we were the only vehicle for miles at a time.
<b>SARLAT</b>
We arrived in Sarlat during the Saturday morning market – finally found a parking spot, and enjoyed shopping at the lively market. Here is where all the cars and people were!!!
From Sarlat, we went to Castlenaud, Jardens de Marqueyssac, La Roque Gegeac, Baynac, Les Milandes, and Domme. They were all great, and we enjoyed each place. Fortunately, the weather was beautiful most of the time. Especially the Sunday that we went to Castlenaud, Marqueyssac and took the boat ride on the Dordogne from La Roque Gegeac. It was totally foggy that morning, but cleared a little after noon.
We had lunch at the little Creperie at Castlenaud. There was a beautiful view of the valley from the restaurant. They also had outside dining – but it was too cool to eat outside. We had crepes which were delicious! The afternoon was sunny and so perfect in the Jardens and on the boat ride. Many many people were out and about in the afternoon.
The next day at Les Milandes, it was raining, so we didn’t get to see a falcon show. But the chateau was so interesting, and we were able to take pictures in the gardens before the rain started. We ate lunch at the little Brasserie at the Chateau – Les Machicoulis - which was fun – they had just finished work on the Brasserie this year. They (new owners) have really done a lot of restorative work on Les Milandes in the last two years.
Our morning in Domme was great – such great views! We really liked the village itself – cute shops, plenty of restaurants, etc. We enjoyed our lunch at Pot de Fer. Domme would be a good place to stay.
<b>MONTIGNAC</b>
We enjoyed the market day in Montignac as well as the cafes, restaurants, etc. Montignac is a great little village, and we liked staying nearby. It’s big enough that it has plenty to offer, but still has a small feel to it. We toured Lascaux II and thought it was very well done. We would have appreciated an English tour, but guess they don’t have one this late in the year.
We drove up to Hautefort Castle one afternoon (only open from 2 pm to 6pm in October) and very much enjoyed the beautiful grounds and castle. On our last day we drove over to Brantome and thought it was a picture-perfect little town. It was market day there as well, so town was crowded and bustling. It was warm and sunny, and we took plenty of photos. This was the day after we woke up to snow! What a difference a day makes! We drove back to Montignac through Les Enzies which we thought was quite touristy.
Nov 12th, 2008, 10:01 PM
#9
Thanks for the report. I too stayed in the Fenelon studio but liked the stairs because I felt they combatted the ducks and geese that might grow on my hips. Next time I go to Dordogne/Lot I'll split the trip into a couple of locations, a "city" and a countryside. Good idea and thanks again for the tips. The Paris apartment is cute too.
Nov 13th, 2008, 06:31 AM
#10
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Hi blh-
I couldn't get the "Our Little Home in Paris" website to work. Can you tell me a little more about it? It's an apt but you can book it for just 3 nights? €80 is a great deal! Is it a studio? With a kitchenette?
I couldn't get the "Our Little Home in Paris" website to work. Can you tell me a little more about it? It's an apt but you can book it for just 3 nights? €80 is a great deal! Is it a studio? With a kitchenette?
Nov 13th, 2008, 07:33 AM
#11
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yk - sorry I posted that website/name incorrectly. Thanks for calling it to my attention.
<b>Paris - My Little Home in Paris</b>
www.mylittlehomeinparis.com
It is a 2-room flat. However, it is more like a studio in that there is not a separate bedroom. The sofa in the LR makes a bed - a very comfortable queen-size bed - that you have to close up in the daytime in order to have room to move around. I was worried that the bed wouldn't be comfortable - but it was! It's hard to explain how the bed folds up - but the owners show you how everything works.
There is a small kitchen, but it has everything you need. The second room is a small office with a desk and a computer. There is also a wardrobe in the office - this room works great for storing luggage and dressing. The pictures on the website show exactly how the apartment looks.
The rates are 80€ a night or 500€ for the week. It is a bargain! The owners are great to work with - couldn't be nicer.
I'll be happy to answer any other questions.
<b>Paris - My Little Home in Paris</b>
www.mylittlehomeinparis.com
It is a 2-room flat. However, it is more like a studio in that there is not a separate bedroom. The sofa in the LR makes a bed - a very comfortable queen-size bed - that you have to close up in the daytime in order to have room to move around. I was worried that the bed wouldn't be comfortable - but it was! It's hard to explain how the bed folds up - but the owners show you how everything works.
There is a small kitchen, but it has everything you need. The second room is a small office with a desk and a computer. There is also a wardrobe in the office - this room works great for storing luggage and dressing. The pictures on the website show exactly how the apartment looks.
The rates are 80€ a night or 500€ for the week. It is a bargain! The owners are great to work with - couldn't be nicer.
I'll be happy to answer any other questions.
Nov 13th, 2008, 07:44 AM
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blh - Thanks! The website photos look nice. I might just try this place next time (who knows when) we go to Paris. It's hard to find a budget hotel without compromising something (either location, or size, or noise). We have never done an apt because we never stayed long enough to get one. Thanks again. (Now I'll just have to hope it won't get too popular and raise it's rates because you posted this on Fodors! 
)
)
Nov 13th, 2008, 08:03 AM
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yk - Yes, I noticed that their calendar is looking very full. I'm sure it's because of the low rate and being willing to rent for less than a week. I hope it will be available next time we go (who knows when that will be!).
We also liked the location probably better than anywhere else we have stayed. We liked having so many reasonably priced restaurants so close. And we liked all the activity in Place Contrescarpe - without being bothered by noise in the apartment.
We also liked the location probably better than anywhere else we have stayed. We liked having so many reasonably priced restaurants so close. And we liked all the activity in Place Contrescarpe - without being bothered by noise in the apartment.
Nov 13th, 2008, 01:47 PM
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<b>RESTAURANTS
PARIS
Au Piano Muet</b>
Rue Moffetard, 5th
Very good and reasonably priced. I had a casserole dish with ham/potatoes/cheese. Husband had lamb chops/roasted potatoes/green beans. Total with wine & dessert – 32€ for both.
<b>City Crepes Café</b>
73, rue de Seine, 6th
Lunch - delicious crepes and cute place. Ate here last time (2007) as well. Main, wine, dessert, and coffee – 28€ for both.
<b>La Fontaine</b>
rue Moffetard, 5th
Had delicious fondue for two with wine – 42€ for both
<b>Le Volcan</b>
10, rue Thouin, 5th
Wonderful! I had gratin de aubergine (ground beef and eggplant casserole) as a main. My husband had salmon with rice and broccoli. The chocolate desserts were wonderful! The total with wine was 46€ for both.
<b>SARLAT
Chez le Gaulots</b>
1, rue Tourny
Had a delicious lunch of salad, cheese and bread. We meant to order the plat that included meat – but that’s not what we received! It was very good anyway. We finished with a good dessert and coffee. With wine it was 32€ for both.
<b>La Petite Borie</b>
12, rue Tourny
We both had a 17€ Menu – soup, salad, duck with potatoes and green beans, and dessert.
Dinner for both with wine – 39€
<b>La Rapiere</b>
Place du Peyrou
We had a l7€ and a 19.5€ Menu. Both meals were duck with potatoes and green vegetables. Also included a dessert. Total with wine was 45€ for both.
<b>DOMME
Pot de Fer</b>
1-3 rue General Rene Carmille
A really cute place with good food. We had the plat de jour which was a slice of breaded and fried turkey breast, roasted potatoes, delicious mixed vegetables, with wine – 32€ for both.
<b>MONTIGNAC
La Chaumiere</b>
53, rue au IV Septembre
We had two racklettes of meat/cheese/potatoes with salad and wine for 38€ for both. It was delicious – and the place was very cute – and busy.
<b>La Dolce Vita</b>
9, place de la Liberation
Great pizza with salad, beer and dessert (ice cream) 29€ for both.
PARIS
Au Piano Muet</b>
Rue Moffetard, 5th
Very good and reasonably priced. I had a casserole dish with ham/potatoes/cheese. Husband had lamb chops/roasted potatoes/green beans. Total with wine & dessert – 32€ for both.
<b>City Crepes Café</b>
73, rue de Seine, 6th
Lunch - delicious crepes and cute place. Ate here last time (2007) as well. Main, wine, dessert, and coffee – 28€ for both.
<b>La Fontaine</b>
rue Moffetard, 5th
Had delicious fondue for two with wine – 42€ for both
<b>Le Volcan</b>
10, rue Thouin, 5th
Wonderful! I had gratin de aubergine (ground beef and eggplant casserole) as a main. My husband had salmon with rice and broccoli. The chocolate desserts were wonderful! The total with wine was 46€ for both.
<b>SARLAT
Chez le Gaulots</b>
1, rue Tourny
Had a delicious lunch of salad, cheese and bread. We meant to order the plat that included meat – but that’s not what we received! It was very good anyway. We finished with a good dessert and coffee. With wine it was 32€ for both.
<b>La Petite Borie</b>
12, rue Tourny
We both had a 17€ Menu – soup, salad, duck with potatoes and green beans, and dessert.
Dinner for both with wine – 39€
<b>La Rapiere</b>
Place du Peyrou
We had a l7€ and a 19.5€ Menu. Both meals were duck with potatoes and green vegetables. Also included a dessert. Total with wine was 45€ for both.
<b>DOMME
Pot de Fer</b>
1-3 rue General Rene Carmille
A really cute place with good food. We had the plat de jour which was a slice of breaded and fried turkey breast, roasted potatoes, delicious mixed vegetables, with wine – 32€ for both.
<b>MONTIGNAC
La Chaumiere</b>
53, rue au IV Septembre
We had two racklettes of meat/cheese/potatoes with salad and wine for 38€ for both. It was delicious – and the place was very cute – and busy.
<b>La Dolce Vita</b>
9, place de la Liberation
Great pizza with salad, beer and dessert (ice cream) 29€ for both.
May 3rd, 2009, 09:35 PM
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We are heading to Paris and the Dordogne October 2009 I am book marking as we also are staying in the 5th.
Loved your trip report especially as it is at the same time and weather and opening times are helpful
Loved your trip report especially as it is at the same time and weather and opening times are helpful
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