Our 5-week Italian Adventure - Bellissimo!!!
Jul 7th, 2025 | 05:32 PM
#81
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Joined: Mar 2003
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Thank you to everyone for continuing to follow along and for your compliments! I really appreciate it!
May 14: Exploring Stunning Siena!
This morning we woke up to gorgeous views from our hotel room. Mist and fog seeping through the valleys. It was magical!
After a nice breakfast buffet at the hotel, this was our day to explore the magnificent walled city of Siena. First up is the outstanding Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta (Duomo). I don’t remember if we used the Duomo’s audioguide or if we used Rick Steves audioguide but either way, it is helpful to have an audioguide. I hadn’t seen any photos of the Duomo so I didn’t know what to expect. The interior is jaw-dropping gorgeous! This is one of the most impressive cathedrals we have visited. There are a huge number of pillars with horizontal bands of light and dark marble, 56 marble panels on the floor, a carved marble pulpit, and the Libreria Piccolomini, amongst other impressive features. Construction started in the 1300’s to enlarge the cathedral (I think it would have been the largest in the world), but then construction was halted due to the economic recession caused by the Black Death.
Next up is the Piazza del Campo, one of the most famous squares in the world. The Palio horse race, in which the neighborhoods compete, is held here twice a year, every year. The piazza is huge; it’s set on a slope, and the Fountain of Joy is located at the top of the square. After spending some time here, we did partially follow Rick Steves walking tour of Siena.
Dinner this evening was at Vivace Restaurant in their gorgeous courtyard. The views are absolutely stunning. As far as ambience and views go, this is one of the more impressive restaurants that we dined at. We shared tuna croquets; Ed had pici pasta with wild boar ragu, and I had large tube pasta with sauce made from cherry tomatoes and burrata cheese with toasted almonds.
May 14: Exploring Stunning Siena!
This morning we woke up to gorgeous views from our hotel room. Mist and fog seeping through the valleys. It was magical!
After a nice breakfast buffet at the hotel, this was our day to explore the magnificent walled city of Siena. First up is the outstanding Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta (Duomo). I don’t remember if we used the Duomo’s audioguide or if we used Rick Steves audioguide but either way, it is helpful to have an audioguide. I hadn’t seen any photos of the Duomo so I didn’t know what to expect. The interior is jaw-dropping gorgeous! This is one of the most impressive cathedrals we have visited. There are a huge number of pillars with horizontal bands of light and dark marble, 56 marble panels on the floor, a carved marble pulpit, and the Libreria Piccolomini, amongst other impressive features. Construction started in the 1300’s to enlarge the cathedral (I think it would have been the largest in the world), but then construction was halted due to the economic recession caused by the Black Death.
Next up is the Piazza del Campo, one of the most famous squares in the world. The Palio horse race, in which the neighborhoods compete, is held here twice a year, every year. The piazza is huge; it’s set on a slope, and the Fountain of Joy is located at the top of the square. After spending some time here, we did partially follow Rick Steves walking tour of Siena.
Dinner this evening was at Vivace Restaurant in their gorgeous courtyard. The views are absolutely stunning. As far as ambience and views go, this is one of the more impressive restaurants that we dined at. We shared tuna croquets; Ed had pici pasta with wild boar ragu, and I had large tube pasta with sauce made from cherry tomatoes and burrata cheese with toasted almonds.
Jul 7th, 2025 | 05:57 PM
#82
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Joined: Mar 2003
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View from our hotel room in the early morning with the mist and fog rolling in.
This view also shows the walls
View from our hotel room in the early morning
Facade of the Siena Duomo
The breathtaking interior of the Siena Duomo with its light and dark striped pillars.
One of the marble designs on the floor.
The Piccolomini Library - built to contain the library of Enea Silvia Piccolimini, who became Pope Pius II.
The beautiful Piccolimini Library
The Piccolimini Library
The stunning altar
The carved marble pulpit
The huge Piazza del Campo, where the Palio horse races are held twice a year.
The Fountain of Joy in the Piazza del Campo
We had a light lunch in this lovely Palazzo courtyard
A lovely place for lunch!
What a wonderful setting for lunch!
The gorgeous courtyard at Vivace Restaurant where we had dinner.
Dining at sunset!
Jul 8th, 2025 | 07:46 AM
#85
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 31,171
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Wonderful TR and photos, KarenWoo! I've only skimmed the posts of others so sorry if this is a dupe, but I posted a movie from my camera onto Flickr and it played on Fodor's. Don't know enough about different formats to say for sure.
Jul 8th, 2025 | 02:04 PM
#88
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 4,274
Likes: 19
Karen, we loved our stay in Volterra, those summer evenings were sublime for strolling, and it was large enough to find new wonders around every corner.
I love your photos and your enthusiasm and look forward to your report updates.
I love your photos and your enthusiasm and look forward to your report updates.
Jul 8th, 2025 | 06:03 PM
#90
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Joined: Mar 2003
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I would have loved to stay in the smaller hilltop towns, too, such as San Gimignano, Volterra, and Pienza. We loved staying in Siena, but an additional couple of nights in Volterra, etc. would have been perfect.
Jul 8th, 2025 | 06:06 PM
#91
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Joined: Mar 2003
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SusanP and Joannyc, Hotel Palazzo Ravizza seems to be a favorite! We loved having drinks one night on the patio overlooking the countryside, and having the nearby parking lot was ideal.
And thank you so much to everyone else for following along and for being so encouraging.
And thank you so much to everyone else for following along and for being so encouraging.
Jul 8th, 2025 | 06:09 PM
#92
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,222
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Karen, I am greatly enjoying your TR, the gorgeous Tuscany pictures bring back so many happy memories of our trip in May 2016. Italy is a gift which keeps giving, I can go back any number of times and never tire!
I returned last evening after 13 days in Greece, 8 in Crete and 5 in Athens. My sister was presenting papers ar two conferences and I decided to tag along as I had never been to Crete. It was beautiful, but very crowded and extremely hot, with temperatures well in the 90s!
I returned last evening after 13 days in Greece, 8 in Crete and 5 in Athens. My sister was presenting papers ar two conferences and I decided to tag along as I had never been to Crete. It was beautiful, but very crowded and extremely hot, with temperatures well in the 90s!
But the summer months would be off the table for us. We can't handle sightseeing when temps are in the 90's.
Jul 8th, 2025 | 07:12 PM
#94
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Joined: Mar 2003
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May 15: Val D’Orcia – the Quintessential Tuscany!
Our plan for today is to drive through Val D’Orcia, the quintessential Tuscany. This is what people think of when they hear the name Tuscany: cypress lined lanes, lush green hills and valleys, vineyards and wineries, olive groves, and stunning medieval hilltop villages.
The first town we came to is Pienza, about an hour’s drive from Siena. This is another beautiful hilltop town, smaller than San Gimignano and with a more intimate ambience. Pienza would be another lovely place to spend a few nights. We walked around the outside of the cathedral and were wowed once again with gorgeous views of the Orcia Valley. It is so pretty here. I wish we had more time.
Upon leaving Pienza, we headed in the direction of Montepulciano, stopping along the way to admire the valley, the vineyards, the olive groves, etc. We also looked for wineries/vineyards where we could have a tasting and a lunch, but to our dismay, that is not possible unless you have made reservations in advance. Several wineries turned us away. When we were in New Zealand last fall, we were able to drive up to a winery and have a wine tasting and lunch without a reservation. So it didn’t occur to us to reserve in advance in Italy. That was a big mistake on our part. But one that I rectified later on in our trip.! 😊
So at some point while driving around we happened about a small trattoria and stopped in for a quick lunch. It was at the end of the lunch hour, and the owner/chef apologized profusely and told us he had very little food left but would offer us whatever he had. He so clearly wanted to please us and be a good host. He made Ed a simple pasta dish. I requested a salad. He went back to the kitchen, and then returned to tell me that he had very few salad ingredients left but would it be ok if he added corn and tuna. I said, of course! The food was mediocre but the service and hospitality was exemplary. His kindness made up for us not being able to have a vineyard lunch.
We then continued on to Montepulciano but it was so crowded that we weren’t able to find a parking space so we left and drove to Chiesa della Madonna di San Biagio, located just below the town. Ed was getting tired at this point and needed a nap. -😊 So he stayed in the car while I went inside the church. San Biagio is located at the end of an avenue of cypress trees. The church is pretty with pale golden stone. But the best part is that it is situated on a grassy area above Val D’Orcia with more gorgeous views.
This was our last night in Siena, and we wanted to eat at Trattoria Nonna Gina where we ate our first night, but they were completely booked for the evening. Our hotel then recommended Quatro Venti, and we were very happy with our dinner here. We shared a delicious huge salad with vegetables and fruit. I ordered tagliatelle pasta with zucchini cream with salted ricotta and lime. Delicious! Ed ordered guinea fowl stuffed with plums, and a side of green beans. His only complaint is that he wished there were more guinea fowl. And we shared a bottle of Chianti wine!
We love, love Tuscany!!! It was one of our favorite destinations. My only complaint is that we really needed more time. Our day spent driving around Val D’Orcia felt rushed; it wasn’t as relaxing as we hoped it would be. If I could plan the itinerary again, I would add 2 or 3 more nights to Siena, or perhaps 3 additional nights in a different Tuscan location. Although that might be too much moving around. At any rate, we definitely needed and wanted more time in beautiful Tuscany!
Our plan for today is to drive through Val D’Orcia, the quintessential Tuscany. This is what people think of when they hear the name Tuscany: cypress lined lanes, lush green hills and valleys, vineyards and wineries, olive groves, and stunning medieval hilltop villages.
The first town we came to is Pienza, about an hour’s drive from Siena. This is another beautiful hilltop town, smaller than San Gimignano and with a more intimate ambience. Pienza would be another lovely place to spend a few nights. We walked around the outside of the cathedral and were wowed once again with gorgeous views of the Orcia Valley. It is so pretty here. I wish we had more time.
Upon leaving Pienza, we headed in the direction of Montepulciano, stopping along the way to admire the valley, the vineyards, the olive groves, etc. We also looked for wineries/vineyards where we could have a tasting and a lunch, but to our dismay, that is not possible unless you have made reservations in advance. Several wineries turned us away. When we were in New Zealand last fall, we were able to drive up to a winery and have a wine tasting and lunch without a reservation. So it didn’t occur to us to reserve in advance in Italy. That was a big mistake on our part. But one that I rectified later on in our trip.! 😊
So at some point while driving around we happened about a small trattoria and stopped in for a quick lunch. It was at the end of the lunch hour, and the owner/chef apologized profusely and told us he had very little food left but would offer us whatever he had. He so clearly wanted to please us and be a good host. He made Ed a simple pasta dish. I requested a salad. He went back to the kitchen, and then returned to tell me that he had very few salad ingredients left but would it be ok if he added corn and tuna. I said, of course! The food was mediocre but the service and hospitality was exemplary. His kindness made up for us not being able to have a vineyard lunch.
We then continued on to Montepulciano but it was so crowded that we weren’t able to find a parking space so we left and drove to Chiesa della Madonna di San Biagio, located just below the town. Ed was getting tired at this point and needed a nap. -😊 So he stayed in the car while I went inside the church. San Biagio is located at the end of an avenue of cypress trees. The church is pretty with pale golden stone. But the best part is that it is situated on a grassy area above Val D’Orcia with more gorgeous views.
This was our last night in Siena, and we wanted to eat at Trattoria Nonna Gina where we ate our first night, but they were completely booked for the evening. Our hotel then recommended Quatro Venti, and we were very happy with our dinner here. We shared a delicious huge salad with vegetables and fruit. I ordered tagliatelle pasta with zucchini cream with salted ricotta and lime. Delicious! Ed ordered guinea fowl stuffed with plums, and a side of green beans. His only complaint is that he wished there were more guinea fowl. And we shared a bottle of Chianti wine!
We love, love Tuscany!!! It was one of our favorite destinations. My only complaint is that we really needed more time. Our day spent driving around Val D’Orcia felt rushed; it wasn’t as relaxing as we hoped it would be. If I could plan the itinerary again, I would add 2 or 3 more nights to Siena, or perhaps 3 additional nights in a different Tuscan location. Although that might be too much moving around. At any rate, we definitely needed and wanted more time in beautiful Tuscany!
Last edited by KarenWoo; Jul 8th, 2025 at 07:37 PM.
Jul 8th, 2025 | 07:34 PM
#95
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,222
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Scenes of Val D'Orcia on the way to Pienza
Tuscan countryside in Val D'Orcia on the way to Pienza
On the drive to Pienza - we saw a lot of these red flowers
and a lot of these yellow flowers.
Pretty Tuscan countryside
The town of Pienza was commissioned by Pope Pius II, a scholarly man who wanted to build the ideal town. His library is in the Siena Cathedral - Piccolomini Library
Be sure to take a walk on the promenade behind the cathedral - the views are outstanding!
Views of Val D'Orcia from behind the Pienza Cathedra.
More Val D'Orcia scenery
Stunning scenery wherever you go
Piazza Pio II
View of the Orcia Valley from the promenade behind the Pienza Cathedral.
Pretty corner of Pienza
Colorful flowers
Gorgeous scenery wherever you are
Pretty window boxes - I love the contrast of the soft colorful flowers against the old stone
More pretty window boxes
Typical beautiful Tuscan scenery on the way to Montepulciano
The hilltop town of Montepulciano
Chiesa della Madonna di San Biagio - just below Montepulciano
The back of San Biagio
View of Val D'Orcia from behind San Biagio
The lovely interior of San Biagio
The cypress lined avenue that leads to Our Lady of San Biagio
The terrace behind Hotel Palazzo Ravizza is a great place for drinks.
Enjoying Chianti wine!
Our delicious vegetable and fruit salad
My very delicious and unique tagliatelle pasta with zucchini cream with salted riccota and lime
Ed's guinea fowl stuffed with plums!
Last edited by KarenWoo; Jul 8th, 2025 at 07:41 PM.
Jul 9th, 2025 | 02:07 PM
#100
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 0
Karen, I continue to be captivated by your photos, food and commentary. It is one my favorite treats everyday!
I am so happy you liked Manarola and Marina Piccola, it was the perfect choice for us. It is interesting to know the luggage delivery service is no longer available. In retrospect, did you feel like you could have managed the local train to La Spezia with your luggage? It sounds like your crowds were not that bad. Planning around the cruises in port is an important step.
I am so happy you liked Lucca, especially with your daughters experience there with her family. Did you feel your time there was the right amount? I am envious of your Puccini concert!
We also felt like we could stay in San Gigminano and Pienza, we loved them both! I am so sorry you couldn't get into a winery there or park at Montepulciano which we also enjoyed. We were very spoiled by hiring a driver for that area, who could just drop us off at the gates and had connections for our lunch. It was more economical to do that with another couple splitting the cost, it definitely was a luxury.
Can't wait for more!
I am so happy you liked Manarola and Marina Piccola, it was the perfect choice for us. It is interesting to know the luggage delivery service is no longer available. In retrospect, did you feel like you could have managed the local train to La Spezia with your luggage? It sounds like your crowds were not that bad. Planning around the cruises in port is an important step.
I am so happy you liked Lucca, especially with your daughters experience there with her family. Did you feel your time there was the right amount? I am envious of your Puccini concert!
We also felt like we could stay in San Gigminano and Pienza, we loved them both! I am so sorry you couldn't get into a winery there or park at Montepulciano which we also enjoyed. We were very spoiled by hiring a driver for that area, who could just drop us off at the gates and had connections for our lunch. It was more economical to do that with another couple splitting the cost, it definitely was a luxury.
Can't wait for more!
