ORVIETO, AREZZO, LUCCA AND ROME
Aug 2nd, 2013, 02:52 PM
#21
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Hi 2010,
I would advise you not to go on the underground tour. Find a nice cafe on the earth's surface while your husband burrows underneath Orvieto.
Imagine a baby mountain whose sides are practically vertical and the top is sliced off neatly horizontally. That's the "platform" on which the upper old town rests. The underground tour meets in the Duomo piazza, walks to the garden terrace about a block to the south of the Duomo then walks down a broad path along the vertical rock side of this baby mountain. We walked about halfway down this 950-foot mountain (I keep saying mountain because I don't know what else to call it.) Then the guide opens a door and you enter the beginning of the first tunnel. You follow tunnels up and down. You enter larger "rooms" and then you go back into a tunnel to access the next room. You are sort of in the middle of this mountain, halfway up, that is. I felt like the town of old Orvieto was halfway above me, through the stone. Not quite claustrophic, for me, but almost. At times you walk up or down some very narrow, steep stairs cut into the rock and I had to hold on to the iron railing bolted into the rock and pull myself up or slow myself as I was descending. I am a late-sixties male in good physical shape, I walk a lot, etc. and my partner is mid-sixties, also in good health. But we still had to squeeze around and clamber up and down carefully. So I don't think this is for you. It is a great experience, however, because you are entering some spaces which were carved out 2500 years ago, as well as medieval spaces. If your husband likes poking around in ancient sites and is not claustrophobic, I think he would enjoy this.
I would advise you not to go on the underground tour. Find a nice cafe on the earth's surface while your husband burrows underneath Orvieto.
Imagine a baby mountain whose sides are practically vertical and the top is sliced off neatly horizontally. That's the "platform" on which the upper old town rests. The underground tour meets in the Duomo piazza, walks to the garden terrace about a block to the south of the Duomo then walks down a broad path along the vertical rock side of this baby mountain. We walked about halfway down this 950-foot mountain (I keep saying mountain because I don't know what else to call it.) Then the guide opens a door and you enter the beginning of the first tunnel. You follow tunnels up and down. You enter larger "rooms" and then you go back into a tunnel to access the next room. You are sort of in the middle of this mountain, halfway up, that is. I felt like the town of old Orvieto was halfway above me, through the stone. Not quite claustrophic, for me, but almost. At times you walk up or down some very narrow, steep stairs cut into the rock and I had to hold on to the iron railing bolted into the rock and pull myself up or slow myself as I was descending. I am a late-sixties male in good physical shape, I walk a lot, etc. and my partner is mid-sixties, also in good health. But we still had to squeeze around and clamber up and down carefully. So I don't think this is for you. It is a great experience, however, because you are entering some spaces which were carved out 2500 years ago, as well as medieval spaces. If your husband likes poking around in ancient sites and is not claustrophobic, I think he would enjoy this.
Aug 2nd, 2013, 03:12 PM
#22
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2010, I agree that the underground tour is not for you if you are claustrophobic. Most of the chambers are relatively large and high, but you walk through narrow connecting passages to reach them, some quite low. At times I had to turn sideways to get through. I recall laughing with my friend as we made our way through some really tight spots, joking how this would be illegal in the U.S.
Aug 2nd, 2013, 08:12 PM
#24
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Hi EYWandBTV and Ellenem:
As I read your descriptions, I could feel myself getting anxious about entering the underground, making my way through narrow passages, climbing up steep steps, squeezing around and clambering up & down places. Goodness ... not my idea of fun! So, I will heed your advice and NOT take the tour! DH can decide for himself.
Thank you both for your replies!
As I read your descriptions, I could feel myself getting anxious about entering the underground, making my way through narrow passages, climbing up steep steps, squeezing around and clambering up & down places. Goodness ... not my idea of fun! So, I will heed your advice and NOT take the tour! DH can decide for himself.
Thank you both for your replies!
Aug 3rd, 2013, 05:11 AM
#25
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Skip Lucca. There is nothing there but a wall, which takes about 30 seconds to see. If you are going to that area, go to Pisa instead. The Field of Miracles is quite a place. The leaning tower would be an amazing site even it it weren't leaning. The cathedral and baptistry are among the best sights in Italy. Nothing in Lucca comes close to this.
Aug 4th, 2013, 03:30 AM
#27
EYWandBTV,
thanks for the link to the Enoteca. it looks like just our sort of place, and very reasonable. sadly we have no trips to Rome in the offing, but i note that they are doing some special dinners there in September and October which might be fun.
as for the underground tour in Orvieto, my major reason for not doing it would be that it was pretty tedious. but on a hot day it would certainly provide relief for the heat above.
I tend to agree with popov about Lucca, and about Pisa. Even with the hoards of tourists and hawkers, the campo dei miracoli remains one of my favourite places of all time.
thanks for the link to the Enoteca. it looks like just our sort of place, and very reasonable. sadly we have no trips to Rome in the offing, but i note that they are doing some special dinners there in September and October which might be fun.
as for the underground tour in Orvieto, my major reason for not doing it would be that it was pretty tedious. but on a hot day it would certainly provide relief for the heat above.
I tend to agree with popov about Lucca, and about Pisa. Even with the hoards of tourists and hawkers, the campo dei miracoli remains one of my favourite places of all time.
Aug 4th, 2013, 04:48 AM
#28
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Hi Annhig,
At the risk of sliding back into the interminable "Lucca or Pisa" discussion which pops up from time to time, just a clarification: I've been to Pisa, love the Field of Miracles, all the structures are wonders, yes yes. It's just that this particular trip, having seen Pisa previously and relaxing and enjoying Lucca, we did not feel like hopping on trains for a day trip. Everybody who has the time, budget, and energy should consider seeing both Pisa and Lucca, IMHO.
At the risk of sliding back into the interminable "Lucca or Pisa" discussion which pops up from time to time, just a clarification: I've been to Pisa, love the Field of Miracles, all the structures are wonders, yes yes. It's just that this particular trip, having seen Pisa previously and relaxing and enjoying Lucca, we did not feel like hopping on trains for a day trip. Everybody who has the time, budget, and energy should consider seeing both Pisa and Lucca, IMHO.
Aug 4th, 2013, 09:27 AM
#29
EYWandBTV
I wasn't suggesting otherwise, but just referencing popov. I can well understand that having seen it before, you might not see the need to go back. We did go back after a gap of over 20 years. The second time we took our kids and though it was a lot busier, it was still wonderful and interesting to experience it through their eyes. We also went back at night when all the tourists and hawkers had gone, and that was a revelation - the illuminated buildings are simply beautiful.
unlike the hotel that we stayed in which sadly did not live up to our memories.
I can see what you mean about Lucca and I'm up for giving it another go!
I wasn't suggesting otherwise, but just referencing popov. I can well understand that having seen it before, you might not see the need to go back. We did go back after a gap of over 20 years. The second time we took our kids and though it was a lot busier, it was still wonderful and interesting to experience it through their eyes. We also went back at night when all the tourists and hawkers had gone, and that was a revelation - the illuminated buildings are simply beautiful.
unlike the hotel that we stayed in which sadly did not live up to our memories.
I can see what you mean about Lucca and I'm up for giving it another go!
Aug 12th, 2013, 03:08 AM
#30
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Really enjoyed you sharing your insights and discoveries. Your writing style is most enjoyable to read.
Should you go to Lucca again, one of our favorite little haunts is Nona Clara right on the main Via as the single Roman Column; their house-made pasta, especially with the seafood sauces, are excellent and traditional. It looks a little kitsch-y/touristy, but a lot of locals eat here too.
I have been to Lucca 4 times and still have not discovered all its nooks and crannies...so I guess that makes me a "fan". I don't find Pisa and Lucca comparable at all--they are totally different personalities. Glad you enjoyed your stay.
Thanks again for such a nice report.
Should you go to Lucca again, one of our favorite little haunts is Nona Clara right on the main Via as the single Roman Column; their house-made pasta, especially with the seafood sauces, are excellent and traditional. It looks a little kitsch-y/touristy, but a lot of locals eat here too.
I have been to Lucca 4 times and still have not discovered all its nooks and crannies...so I guess that makes me a "fan". I don't find Pisa and Lucca comparable at all--they are totally different personalities. Glad you enjoyed your stay.
Thanks again for such a nice report.
Aug 14th, 2013, 11:02 AM
#31
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Annhig: am interested in your impressions on the prossimo viaggio to Lucca.
Klondike: thanks for your restaurant tips, I've noted them for the next time!
I finally posted my photos; they are in the photo book marked "Italy 2013" at this site:
https://billandericstuff.shutterfly.com/pictures/8
Also there are videos of the Giostra procession into the Arezzo Duomo, the chorus in Lucca, and the Baroque trio and art tour of the Palazzo Doria-Pamphilj in Rome, on the right hand side of this "photos and videos" page of my website:
https://billandericstuff.shutterfly.com/pictures
I am on the same page with you--really enjoy the small semi-kitschy corners to have a meal, and also the humble slightly tumble-down Romanesque buildings. That's why I enjoyed Lucca so much I guess. I figure that I have done my duty in life by seeing St. Peter's and the Vatican Museums three times in the last few decades and thank goodness I don't have to do that again!
Klondike: thanks for your restaurant tips, I've noted them for the next time!
I finally posted my photos; they are in the photo book marked "Italy 2013" at this site:
https://billandericstuff.shutterfly.com/pictures/8
Also there are videos of the Giostra procession into the Arezzo Duomo, the chorus in Lucca, and the Baroque trio and art tour of the Palazzo Doria-Pamphilj in Rome, on the right hand side of this "photos and videos" page of my website:
https://billandericstuff.shutterfly.com/pictures
I am on the same page with you--really enjoy the small semi-kitschy corners to have a meal, and also the humble slightly tumble-down Romanesque buildings. That's why I enjoyed Lucca so much I guess. I figure that I have done my duty in life by seeing St. Peter's and the Vatican Museums three times in the last few decades and thank goodness I don't have to do that again!
Aug 14th, 2013, 11:54 AM
#32
Annhig: am interested in your impressions on the prossimo viaggio to Lucca>>
not sure I'm with you there, EYW&BTV!
Sadly my "viaggio scorso" to Lucca was more years ago than I care to remember, and co-incided with my first trip to Pisa. my second trip to Pisa [which omitted Lucca] was rather more recent, but still, not recent enough.
I agree wholeheartedly with you that I could manage very well without another route march around the Vatican Museums! St. Peter's itself is always worth an hour or so, though, if only to admire the beauty of the dome and the juxtaposition of the vileness of the canopy over the main altar. am I the only one who thinks that huge dark wooden structure ugly?
not sure I'm with you there, EYW&BTV!
Sadly my "viaggio scorso" to Lucca was more years ago than I care to remember, and co-incided with my first trip to Pisa. my second trip to Pisa [which omitted Lucca] was rather more recent, but still, not recent enough.
I agree wholeheartedly with you that I could manage very well without another route march around the Vatican Museums! St. Peter's itself is always worth an hour or so, though, if only to admire the beauty of the dome and the juxtaposition of the vileness of the canopy over the main altar. am I the only one who thinks that huge dark wooden structure ugly?
