View Poll Results: Orkney vs. Oban/Iona/Mull
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Orkney vs. Inner Hebrides
Oct 21st, 2023, 03:18 PM
#1
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Orkney vs. Inner Hebrides
Hi!
i am taking my daughter on a two week vacation to Scotland starting in late July 2024. We plan to start in Glasgow and drive around Scotland, ending in Edinburgh before returning to Glasgow to fly out. I am following a vacation route suggested by Fodor’s going from Glasgow to Loch Lomond to Glencoe to Inverness to Orkney to Isle of Skye to Edinburgh. Here’s my question: Rick Steves recommends Oban, Iona and Mull instead of Orkney on his 2 week itinerary. Which itinerary would you guys recommend? Thanks in advance for your input!
i am taking my daughter on a two week vacation to Scotland starting in late July 2024. We plan to start in Glasgow and drive around Scotland, ending in Edinburgh before returning to Glasgow to fly out. I am following a vacation route suggested by Fodor’s going from Glasgow to Loch Lomond to Glencoe to Inverness to Orkney to Isle of Skye to Edinburgh. Here’s my question: Rick Steves recommends Oban, Iona and Mull instead of Orkney on his 2 week itinerary. Which itinerary would you guys recommend? Thanks in advance for your input!
Last edited by amyeaton1972; Oct 21st, 2023 at 03:22 PM.
Oct 21st, 2023, 03:35 PM
#2
Welcome to Fodors. Forget Rick Steves for UK advice (He's fine to very good for a lot of destinations but not so great for the UK). Having said that -- in this case - and not because RS said so 
I would NOT try to squeeze in that loop all the way to Orknet into just two weeks.. Too far, too slow travel, too much to see in too short a time.
If you truly mean 'two weeks', i.e. 14 days home to home, the you will only have 11.5 days or thereabouts free for seeing/doing. And the first day or two will likely be jet lagged. 10 or 11 days is just about enough for Edinburgh, a bit of the Highlands/Glencoe area, Mull/Iona and Glasgow.
It most definitely is not enough time for Edinburgh, Glencoe, Okney, Inverness, Skye, Loch Lomond and Glasgow. That trek would take 3.5+ weeks and still be rushed.
I would NOT try to squeeze in that loop all the way to Orknet into just two weeks.. Too far, too slow travel, too much to see in too short a time.If you truly mean 'two weeks', i.e. 14 days home to home, the you will only have 11.5 days or thereabouts free for seeing/doing. And the first day or two will likely be jet lagged. 10 or 11 days is just about enough for Edinburgh, a bit of the Highlands/Glencoe area, Mull/Iona and Glasgow.
It most definitely is not enough time for Edinburgh, Glencoe, Okney, Inverness, Skye, Loch Lomond and Glasgow. That trek would take 3.5+ weeks and still be rushed.
Oct 21st, 2023, 04:08 PM
#3
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janisj The time away from the US for Scotland is actually 19 days, but we lose the first day and a half to the time difference and traveling, we lose the last day to traveling and we are making a flash trip to York from Edinburgh before returning back to Glasgow, with 3-1/2 days for that leg planned. So I guess we have about 13 real days in Scotland rather than 14.
Oct 21st, 2023, 05:05 PM
#4
OK - 13 days and no jet lag helps a lot. But still not enough time for the Highlands, Orkney, Skye plus Edinburgh and Glasgow.
Orkney including the travel time to get up there and back would be about 4 days minimum. About the same for Skye with a big chunk of a day to get there, most of a day to get back, leaving just 2 and a skosh days free on the island. That would only leave you roughly 4 days total for Glencoe and surrounding area, Edinburgh, and Glasgow and no time for anything around Inverness. Honestly unless you can swing 3 weeks or more I'd forget about Orkney and Skye. Travel in remote/rural/island areas can be extremely slow - like 30-35 mph slow.
Orkney including the travel time to get up there and back would be about 4 days minimum. About the same for Skye with a big chunk of a day to get there, most of a day to get back, leaving just 2 and a skosh days free on the island. That would only leave you roughly 4 days total for Glencoe and surrounding area, Edinburgh, and Glasgow and no time for anything around Inverness. Honestly unless you can swing 3 weeks or more I'd forget about Orkney and Skye. Travel in remote/rural/island areas can be extremely slow - like 30-35 mph slow.
Oct 21st, 2023, 07:51 PM
#7
You could easily fit in Skye - IF you eliminated Orkney. I'd personally choose between Mull and Skye. I like Skye a lot and LOVE Mull.
With say 13 nights on the ground you could do something like 3 nights in Edinburgh, 3 nights near (not IN Inverness), 3 nights on Skye 2 nights in Glencoe/Glen Etive, and finish up with 2 nights for Loch Lomond/Glasgow.
With say 13 nights on the ground you could do something like 3 nights in Edinburgh, 3 nights near (not IN Inverness), 3 nights on Skye 2 nights in Glencoe/Glen Etive, and finish up with 2 nights for Loch Lomond/Glasgow.
Oct 22nd, 2023, 07:40 AM
#10
Oh oops -- I COMPLETELY missed the date in the OP!
Any time in August definitely puts a damper on both Edinburgh and Skye. Is there any way you could change dates?? Edinburgh for the full month of August is beyond a zoo. Think Mardi Gras insanely crowded, only for a whole month, not just a few days. The Festivals, Fringe, and Tattoo all run concurrently and the city more than doubles in size/triples or more on weekends. Hotel rates are through the roof and dinner bookings nearly impossible. It is an amazing time to be in the city but it is not a time to sightsee or actually 'see' the city at all. Just crazy busy.And Skye in August will be really crowded. Crowded is a relative term when it comes to Skye since it is large and entirely rural - but parking at any scenic spot can be impossible, there will be too much traffic for inadequate roads, rooms book up 8, 9, 12 months in advance.
I'll search for a photo that explains Edinburgh at Fringe time . . .
Last edited by janisj; Oct 22nd, 2023 at 07:46 AM. Reason: typos
Oct 22nd, 2023, 07:43 AM
#11
Quick search brought this up -- most of these photos are along the Royal Mile but all parts of the city will be impacted.
https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo/cr...ortBy=relevant
https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo/cr...ortBy=relevant
Oct 22nd, 2023, 08:23 AM
#12
As a former resident of Edinburgh, I'll just say this. Yes, during the festivals (i.e., August but overlapping a little into July and some years, into September) Edinburgh is expensive, frenetic, congested, and hard to get around. BUT... it's also electric, full of life and variety, pretty much an orgy of dramatic and visual arts, music, an avalanche of world cultures... So if any of that appeals to you or your daughter (how old, by the way?) then splurging for a couple of nights in the capital MIGHT be enjoyable, maybe even very enjoyable, provided you know what you're in for. Just because it's not empty Highland glens with chirping birds and buzzing dragonflies doesn't mean it's not worthwhile. Frankly, it's a blast.
Now for the trip, since you're not landing in Glasgow and taking off while you're still jetlagged etc., I might suggest that if you're coming from York, you take the train straight to Inverness and collect a car there. In general, the car rental companies don't charge excessive one-way surcharges, so turning your procession into a one-way route would not only save time, but would allow for a more leisurely route that COULD include Skye and the Oban/Mull Argyll elements.
Like Janis, I am more a fan of Mull and Argyll than Skye, whose popularity (probably inflamed by the likes of Outlander) has led to problems with crowd management. One can actually use Oban as a base to see many "highlights" in the western Highlands. For example, Kilmartin Glen, roughly an hour south of Oban (once the landslide closing the road is cleared, long before you'll be there) is one of the most important places in Britain for prehistoric sites - standing stones, etc. - rivaling Orkney in terms of quantity. Staffa and Iona, reached from Mull or Oban as part of a "three islands" tour, are incredibly important (and beautiful) historic and natural history sites. You can easily do a day trip from Oban that includes Glen Coe and Glen Etive, both wildly beautiful, or you can spend a couple of days on Mull with its beaches, castles, picturesque Tobermory...
So I'd consider the one-way option carefully, and don't exclude Edinburgh out of hand if the thought of all those performing arts has any appeal.
Now for the trip, since you're not landing in Glasgow and taking off while you're still jetlagged etc., I might suggest that if you're coming from York, you take the train straight to Inverness and collect a car there. In general, the car rental companies don't charge excessive one-way surcharges, so turning your procession into a one-way route would not only save time, but would allow for a more leisurely route that COULD include Skye and the Oban/Mull Argyll elements.
Like Janis, I am more a fan of Mull and Argyll than Skye, whose popularity (probably inflamed by the likes of Outlander) has led to problems with crowd management. One can actually use Oban as a base to see many "highlights" in the western Highlands. For example, Kilmartin Glen, roughly an hour south of Oban (once the landslide closing the road is cleared, long before you'll be there) is one of the most important places in Britain for prehistoric sites - standing stones, etc. - rivaling Orkney in terms of quantity. Staffa and Iona, reached from Mull or Oban as part of a "three islands" tour, are incredibly important (and beautiful) historic and natural history sites. You can easily do a day trip from Oban that includes Glen Coe and Glen Etive, both wildly beautiful, or you can spend a couple of days on Mull with its beaches, castles, picturesque Tobermory...
So I'd consider the one-way option carefully, and don't exclude Edinburgh out of hand if the thought of all those performing arts has any appeal.
Oct 22nd, 2023, 08:39 AM
#13
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bilboburgler and jjanis I did know about the Fringe Festival and the Edinburgh Tattoo. Unfortunately, no, I can’t change my dates. I was working on flights in May, but the tickets became too expensive so, unbelievably, this timeframe from Jul 23 to Aug 11 was the cheapest alternative before my daughter potentially starts college at the end of August.
I lived in Edinburgh 25 years ago for a year while attending the University of Edinburgh. The Fringe Festival looks like it has grown since I was there last. The streets were fun and chaotic 25 years ago, but the streets in your pictures jjanis look worse than Princes Street at Christmas, which was wall-to-wall people, at least on the sidewalk in front of the stores. The only thing I can do is flip flop where I start my trip. Since Edinburgh was where I went to school, I talk about the city frequently and my daughter really wants to see it. My current plan is 1 day in Glasgow to see the cathedral and a museum or two, 2 days Oban/Iona/Mull, 1 day Glencoe/Fort William, 2 days Isle of Skye, 2 days Inverness/Loch Ness/Culloden, 1 day Stirling, 3 days Edinburgh, Jedburgh/Melrose Abbey/Hadrian’s Wall on the way to York with 3 days in York, 2 more days in Edinburgh and then back to Glasgow to fly out late afternoon. I have already secured accommodation in Edinburgh but it is refundable.
Instead of starting in Glasgow and going counter-clockwise around Scotland, I could go to Edinburgh first and go clockwise, reversing the order. I would still need to be in Edinburgh on Aug 9 for the Tattoo, since I already purchased tickets. In regard to Skye, instead of driving around the Island, I could take a tour from Inverness or Portree. Would that make it any better?
I have a tendency when traveling to Europe of trying to cram too much in because there is so much I want to see and it is so expensive to get there. Having said that, do you think I could fit in 1 day in Lewis? 🤓
Thanks again for your feedback!
I lived in Edinburgh 25 years ago for a year while attending the University of Edinburgh. The Fringe Festival looks like it has grown since I was there last. The streets were fun and chaotic 25 years ago, but the streets in your pictures jjanis look worse than Princes Street at Christmas, which was wall-to-wall people, at least on the sidewalk in front of the stores. The only thing I can do is flip flop where I start my trip. Since Edinburgh was where I went to school, I talk about the city frequently and my daughter really wants to see it. My current plan is 1 day in Glasgow to see the cathedral and a museum or two, 2 days Oban/Iona/Mull, 1 day Glencoe/Fort William, 2 days Isle of Skye, 2 days Inverness/Loch Ness/Culloden, 1 day Stirling, 3 days Edinburgh, Jedburgh/Melrose Abbey/Hadrian’s Wall on the way to York with 3 days in York, 2 more days in Edinburgh and then back to Glasgow to fly out late afternoon. I have already secured accommodation in Edinburgh but it is refundable.
Instead of starting in Glasgow and going counter-clockwise around Scotland, I could go to Edinburgh first and go clockwise, reversing the order. I would still need to be in Edinburgh on Aug 9 for the Tattoo, since I already purchased tickets. In regard to Skye, instead of driving around the Island, I could take a tour from Inverness or Portree. Would that make it any better?
I have a tendency when traveling to Europe of trying to cram too much in because there is so much I want to see and it is so expensive to get there. Having said that, do you think I could fit in 1 day in Lewis? 🤓
Thanks again for your feedback!
Oct 22nd, 2023, 09:04 AM
#14
Just very quick since I'm dashing out and haven't read your full latest post:
"The Fringe Festival looks like it has grown since I was there last. The streets were fun and chaotic 25 years ago, but the streets in your pictures jjanislook worse than Princes Street at Christmas, which was wall-to-wall people, at least on the sidewalk in front of the stores"
Yes -- the Fringe has grown exponentially. You would not recognize it now. Last times I attended were maybe 5 and 7 years ago and before that was more than a decade and I was truly flabbergasted re the change in crowds. in the 10 or so years. Like Hogmanay but for the full month. Great fun of course but really difficult to get around. I'd place Edinburgh at the very beginning of your time frame in July UNLESS the Fringe and Tattoo are musts.
I'll read the rest of your post when I get home . . .
"The Fringe Festival looks like it has grown since I was there last. The streets were fun and chaotic 25 years ago, but the streets in your pictures jjanislook worse than Princes Street at Christmas, which was wall-to-wall people, at least on the sidewalk in front of the stores"
Yes -- the Fringe has grown exponentially. You would not recognize it now. Last times I attended were maybe 5 and 7 years ago and before that was more than a decade and I was truly flabbergasted re the change in crowds. in the 10 or so years. Like Hogmanay but for the full month. Great fun of course but really difficult to get around. I'd place Edinburgh at the very beginning of your time frame in July UNLESS the Fringe and Tattoo are musts.
I'll read the rest of your post when I get home . . .
Last edited by janisj; Oct 22nd, 2023 at 09:06 AM.
Oct 22nd, 2023, 03:18 PM
#15
"My current plan is 1 day in Glasgow to see the cathedral and a museum or two, 2 days Oban/Iona/Mull, 1 day Glencoe/Fort William, 2 days Isle of Skye, 2 days Inverness/Loch Ness/Culloden, 1 day Stirling, 3 days Edinburgh, Jedburgh/Melrose Abbey/Hadrian’s Wall on the way to York with 3 days in York, 2 more days in Edinburgh and then back to Glasgow to fly out late afternoon."
This is very fast paced and not totally realistic in your 19 days time frame. To get 1 full day in a place requires 2 nights, 2 days means 3 nights, 3 days = 4 nights and so forth. On the other hand -- if you really meant for example just 2 nights on Skye, then you will have less than 1.5 days for the entire island which is basically 'why bother' territory Likewise, if your one day in Glasgow is just one night and is your arrival day then you will basically have a few jet lagged hours for the city.
Your plan as laid out would actually require a 24 or 25 night trip.
This is very fast paced and not totally realistic in your 19 days time frame. To get 1 full day in a place requires 2 nights, 2 days means 3 nights, 3 days = 4 nights and so forth. On the other hand -- if you really meant for example just 2 nights on Skye, then you will have less than 1.5 days for the entire island which is basically 'why bother' territory
Likewise, if your one day in Glasgow is just one night and is your arrival day then you will basically have a few jet lagged hours for the city.Your plan as laid out would actually require a 24 or 25 night trip.
Oct 23rd, 2023, 09:51 AM
#16
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So this is my revised itinerary:
Fly into Glasgow July 24. Train/Bus to Edinburgh.
Edinburgh July 24, 25, 26, 27
pick up car July 27
Visit Stirling on way to Inverness or day trip from Edinburgh by train
Inverness/Culloden/Loch Ness July 28, 29
Isle of Skye & maybe Lewis day trip Jul 30, 31, Aug 1
Oban/Argyle/Mull/Iona/Glencoe Aug 2, 3, 4
York Aug 5, 6, 7
Edinburgh Fringe & Tattoo Aug 8, 9
drop car off Aug 8
Glasgow Aug 10, fly out of Glasgow Aug 11
What do you guys think? Is this a reasonable itinerary? Thank you for all your input!
Fly into Glasgow July 24. Train/Bus to Edinburgh.
Edinburgh July 24, 25, 26, 27
pick up car July 27
Visit Stirling on way to Inverness or day trip from Edinburgh by train
Inverness/Culloden/Loch Ness July 28, 29
Isle of Skye & maybe Lewis day trip Jul 30, 31, Aug 1
Oban/Argyle/Mull/Iona/Glencoe Aug 2, 3, 4
York Aug 5, 6, 7
Edinburgh Fringe & Tattoo Aug 8, 9
drop car off Aug 8
Glasgow Aug 10, fly out of Glasgow Aug 11
What do you guys think? Is this a reasonable itinerary? Thank you for all your input!
Last edited by amyeaton1972; Oct 23rd, 2023 at 09:53 AM.
Oct 23rd, 2023, 10:21 AM
#17
A few issues - See my edits/comments:
Fly into Glasgow July 24. Train/Bus to Edinburgh.
Edinburgh July 24, 25, 26,27 (Can't count the 27th in Edinburgh since you are collecting rental car and leaving that day)
pick up car July 27, Visit Stirling on way to Invernessor day trip from Edinburgh by train (with only 2 usable days in Edinburgh no practical time for a day trip to Stirling - yes I know you'l be back in Edinburgh at the end but that time will be filled up with Fringe and/or the Tattoo -- the Tattoo is HIGHLY recommended)
Inverness/Culloden/Loch Ness July 27, 28, 29 (You'll see just about all of Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle on the drive to Skye on the 30th - no need to see it now. Use the extra time for Fort George, Cawdor, maybe Nairn/Elgin, etc)
Isle of Skye& maybe Lewis day trip Jul 30, 31, Aug 1 (with just 2.5 days on Skye I don't think a day trip to Lewis makes sense)
Oban/Argyle/Mull/Iona/Glencoe Aug 2, 3, 4 (That is a LOT to squeeze into 2.5 days)
York Aug 5, 6, 7 . . . Driving from Oban to York can easily take more than 8 hours. IF you left at 0-dark-thirty and missed traffic around Glasgow it can sometimes be done in about 6 hours.
Edinburgh Fringe & Tattoo Aug 8, 9
drop car off Aug 8 - Depending on traffic, the drive up from York can take 4 - 5.5 hours or more. I would consider dropping the car in York and taking the train to Edinburgh. 2 hours city centre to city centre.
Glasgow Aug 10, fly out of Glasgow Aug 11
Fly into Glasgow July 24. Train/Bus to Edinburgh.
Edinburgh July 24, 25, 26,
pick up car July 27, Visit Stirling on way to Inverness
Inverness/Culloden/Loch Ness July 27, 28, 29 (You'll see just about all of Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle on the drive to Skye on the 30th - no need to see it now. Use the extra time for Fort George, Cawdor, maybe Nairn/Elgin, etc)
Isle of Skye
Oban/Argyle/Mull/Iona/Glencoe Aug 2, 3, 4 (That is a LOT to squeeze into 2.5 days)
York Aug 5, 6, 7 . . . Driving from Oban to York can easily take more than 8 hours. IF you left at 0-dark-thirty and missed traffic around Glasgow it can sometimes be done in about 6 hours.
Edinburgh Fringe & Tattoo Aug 8, 9
drop car off Aug 8 - Depending on traffic, the drive up from York can take 4 - 5.5 hours or more. I would consider dropping the car in York and taking the train to Edinburgh. 2 hours city centre to city centre.
Glasgow Aug 10, fly out of Glasgow Aug 11
Oct 23rd, 2023, 12:42 PM
#18
OR -- If your time in York is to be spent IN York and not exploring the Dales or Moors, I'd drop he car in Scotland, take the train to York and then train back north to Edinburgh. You could drop the car in Glasgow, take the train to Edinburgh and change trains there - total journey time about 3.5 hours including the transfer at Waverly station. Or, drop the car in Edinburgh and take the direct train from there - journey time about 2:20.
Even if you did want a car for exploring outside York, I'd think about dropping the rental in Scotland and take the train down and back. Then I'd rent a car locally for just a day or 2 if needed. Driving to / from York will eat up a LOT of time.
Even if you did want a car for exploring outside York, I'd think about dropping the rental in Scotland and take the train down and back. Then I'd rent a car locally for just a day or 2 if needed. Driving to / from York will eat up a LOT of time.
