Opera Kings to Europe-Ongoing Report
Jul 3rd, 2014, 10:57 PM
#21
Original Poster
Yesterday, July 3rd was basically taken up with an activity the large majority of travelers who post on this site wouldn't think twice about not doing while visiting Paris and that is going to so-called "Euro" Disney.
We did so for a variety of reasons chief of which is my partner has a long history with the whole Disney concept and presentation over the years. He was a large stockholder for years; played a role when the company opened EPCOT, and has always been a "Disney watcher" in many ways.
It would not have been my first choice in activities but for better or worse and the usual need to compromise when it comes to travel we went.
Bought tickets at the nearby RER station (Auber) which was easy to do using the ticket machines and the train trip out took close to an hour. We had slept in late so our arrival time was around 11:00 AM. There were a lot of people at the train station buying tickets for onward main line journeys and once we made our way through that throng it was an easy walk to the park entrance.
I'll simply summarize the day here in as few words as possible. It was hot and cloudless again yesterday; plenty of visitors and most of the children looked to be enjoying themselves; more than a few of the adults looked resigned. Several attractions were not operating which is always disappointing.
For the most part the parks seem well-maintained but not with the attention one sees in Orlando or Anaheim. Plenty of trash in some of the bushes; peeling paint and rust evident in some places, etc.
I noticed just how much of the park is taken up with providing food and drinks for patrons. Staff members, or I guess I should say "cast members" were helpful and friendly. It was evident that there were visitors from various countries. The place has come a ways from when local farmers were blockading approaches to the site in protest.
We returned to Paris well before nightfall and after having a snack in the hotel's "club" room we retired to the room for the evening.
I notice that during the day in this part of the city there are lots of folks hanging out on the sidewalks...smoking! I'm not sure this is really any different than anywhere else there are smoking bans in place including the United States.
The World Cup fever continues over here.
Today we will do a couple of museums as well as one religious "shrine" my partner wants to visit. Tonight is our first opera performance: La Boheme at the Bastille. We have not seen anything in that venue and am anxious to compare it to other houses. Of course there are those who have said, and probably will continue to say the place is a travesty when compared to the more traditional Garnier.
Admittedly the ambience lends a great deal and for whatever reason the Europeans seem more committed to the "gold leaf and velvet" than we do in the US. Barcelona has burned down three different times and there is no "moderne" Bastille-like house in its place. Like opera itself this construction drama will undoubtedly endure.
We did so for a variety of reasons chief of which is my partner has a long history with the whole Disney concept and presentation over the years. He was a large stockholder for years; played a role when the company opened EPCOT, and has always been a "Disney watcher" in many ways.
It would not have been my first choice in activities but for better or worse and the usual need to compromise when it comes to travel we went.
Bought tickets at the nearby RER station (Auber) which was easy to do using the ticket machines and the train trip out took close to an hour. We had slept in late so our arrival time was around 11:00 AM. There were a lot of people at the train station buying tickets for onward main line journeys and once we made our way through that throng it was an easy walk to the park entrance.
I'll simply summarize the day here in as few words as possible. It was hot and cloudless again yesterday; plenty of visitors and most of the children looked to be enjoying themselves; more than a few of the adults looked resigned. Several attractions were not operating which is always disappointing.
For the most part the parks seem well-maintained but not with the attention one sees in Orlando or Anaheim. Plenty of trash in some of the bushes; peeling paint and rust evident in some places, etc.
I noticed just how much of the park is taken up with providing food and drinks for patrons. Staff members, or I guess I should say "cast members" were helpful and friendly. It was evident that there were visitors from various countries. The place has come a ways from when local farmers were blockading approaches to the site in protest.
We returned to Paris well before nightfall and after having a snack in the hotel's "club" room we retired to the room for the evening.
I notice that during the day in this part of the city there are lots of folks hanging out on the sidewalks...smoking! I'm not sure this is really any different than anywhere else there are smoking bans in place including the United States.
The World Cup fever continues over here.
Today we will do a couple of museums as well as one religious "shrine" my partner wants to visit. Tonight is our first opera performance: La Boheme at the Bastille. We have not seen anything in that venue and am anxious to compare it to other houses. Of course there are those who have said, and probably will continue to say the place is a travesty when compared to the more traditional Garnier.
Admittedly the ambience lends a great deal and for whatever reason the Europeans seem more committed to the "gold leaf and velvet" than we do in the US. Barcelona has burned down three different times and there is no "moderne" Bastille-like house in its place. Like opera itself this construction drama will undoubtedly endure.
Jul 4th, 2014, 12:29 AM
#22
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Very interested in your opinion of the performance and venue.
My first time at Disneyland, years ago in Anaheim, I remember trash barely hit the ground before someone was there to pick it up. It was immaculate. Walt would not be pleased with the state of Disneyland Paris or is it Euro Disney?
We are thinking about taking our grandkids (they live in the UK). From their point of view am probably most concerned about popular rides being closed. Of course would check first but it's not always predictable.
My first time at Disneyland, years ago in Anaheim, I remember trash barely hit the ground before someone was there to pick it up. It was immaculate. Walt would not be pleased with the state of Disneyland Paris or is it Euro Disney?
We are thinking about taking our grandkids (they live in the UK). From their point of view am probably most concerned about popular rides being closed. Of course would check first but it's not always predictable.
Jul 4th, 2014, 04:56 AM
#23
We are being inundated in Paris by the commercials for the new Ratatouille attraction that opens next week.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWHKr7IkdB8
Apparently there's a whole new 'Parisian' zone of the park opening at the same time, so visitors to Disneyland will no longer have to actually go to Paris.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWHKr7IkdB8
Apparently there's a whole new 'Parisian' zone of the park opening at the same time, so visitors to Disneyland will no longer have to actually go to Paris.
Jul 4th, 2014, 05:41 AM
#24
Original Poster
Yes, Kerouac, I've seen those ads in the Metro.
Just received an email that due to the strike the performance at the Opera Bastille tonight will be a concert version: no sets or costumes. Disappointing but we will attend nonetheless.
Just received an email that due to the strike the performance at the Opera Bastille tonight will be a concert version: no sets or costumes. Disappointing but we will attend nonetheless.
Jul 4th, 2014, 11:15 AM
#26
Original Poster
Tonight was not the best time to drop in at some cafe, etc., for a meal as many of them seemed to be jammed with folks watching the France-Germany football match.
We ended up watching part of it also as we ate in a small restaurant not too far from the Opera Bastille. Getting there on the Metro was an experience we've had in many other cities when folks are headed home from work: sardine can time. I will say folks were polite despite the crush.
After thee meal we walked to the theatre only to be told that the earlier e-mail which spoke of a concert perfromance was incorrect and the performance was cancelled entirely. Refunds and exchanges were offered so we lined up at the ticket windows to wait. Whole process took about 45 minutes and we received a cash refund on the spot.
Very disappointed but these things happen. We leave for Munich by train in the morning.
We ended up watching part of it also as we ate in a small restaurant not too far from the Opera Bastille. Getting there on the Metro was an experience we've had in many other cities when folks are headed home from work: sardine can time. I will say folks were polite despite the crush.
After thee meal we walked to the theatre only to be told that the earlier e-mail which spoke of a concert perfromance was incorrect and the performance was cancelled entirely. Refunds and exchanges were offered so we lined up at the ticket windows to wait. Whole process took about 45 minutes and we received a cash refund on the spot.
Very disappointed but these things happen. We leave for Munich by train in the morning.
Jul 4th, 2014, 01:31 PM
#28
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If you do a future opera trip, consider a performance at the Festspielhaus (performance hall) in Baden-Baden. The acoustics are excellent. Ditto for the performances. Don Carlo is playing tomorrow night. http://www.festspielhaus.de/veransta...-07-2014-2498/
The performances at the hall vary quite a bit.
http://www.festspielhaus.de/programm...FSoOwwodY1YATA
FWIW, three hotels -- Brenner's, the Dorint and the Kleine Prinz have their own rows at the hall so savvy guests of those establishments can get very good seats. The Dorint, for example, has the front row in the first balcony. We go most years in December to enjoy the Christmas market and to take in a holiday performance. The tickets you book with the hotel entitle you to the intermission buffet and champagne and you can also be driven to the hall free of charge in the hotel's private car (last time we went the car was an Audi A8; the model changes from time to time).
The performances at the hall vary quite a bit.
http://www.festspielhaus.de/programm...FSoOwwodY1YATA
FWIW, three hotels -- Brenner's, the Dorint and the Kleine Prinz have their own rows at the hall so savvy guests of those establishments can get very good seats. The Dorint, for example, has the front row in the first balcony. We go most years in December to enjoy the Christmas market and to take in a holiday performance. The tickets you book with the hotel entitle you to the intermission buffet and champagne and you can also be driven to the hall free of charge in the hotel's private car (last time we went the car was an Audi A8; the model changes from time to time).
Jul 5th, 2014, 07:44 AM
#30
Original Poster
Saturday 5 July
Today has been a good one thus far. Woke up to light rain in Paris this morning. Checked out of the hotel and was told twice while doing so how sorry the hotel was for our delayed room occupancy when we arrived.
I brought the bottle of champagne the hotel had given us in one of the suitcases. We'll have to consume it somewhere before leaving for home.
Taxi to the Gare de L'Est for the train. The place is always a bit sobering (for me) to leave from given those plaques commemorating the many Jews who were shipped off to the east and almost certain death from the station. And I always make a point of reading those plaques when I'm there, too.
The usual deal with SNCF train movement; you wait for the track number to appear and then there's the usual mad dash onto the platform and into the coaches and the luggage storage drama is played out.
We were on the upper level of a TGV duplex; our car was completely full whereas the lower level was almost totally empty. The train left on the dot and we were soon rolling through the countryside toward Saarbrucken at around 200 mph and on the usual well-maintained roadbed.
Snack box and drinks quickly given out along with newspapers. The food consisted of a fresh croissant and sandwich makings (butter, jam, two kinds if cheese, a ham slice, and cream cheese). Also a small container of yogurt along with some "cereal" mix/topping. Orange juice completed the box; coffee and tea offered separately.
About one minute late into Mannheim for a 15-minute connection to an ICE timing for Munich. Route through Stuttgart, Ulm (the tallest church spire apparently still "rules the world" as far as I know) an on through Augsburg to Munich for an on-time arrival.
We have, in the past, stayed in various hotels all over the city but decided on the Platzl for this trip since it is as close as any hotel to the opera house. We resisted staying in the Platzl for years because it lacked air conditioning and we have usually come to Munich only in hot weather.
But the somewhat recent renovation added the A/C from what I understand so here we are. The hotel backs up to the Hofbrauhaus and this really is "tourist central" which i am sure would be off-putting for many and understandably so.
We had a late lunch outside in one of the local restaurants: salad and soup; snitzel and then down the street for some gelato. Comfort food for sure.
The opera tonight is Midsummernight's Dream which will go on as planned we hope.
In the meanwhile we have received the usual "welcome" email from thee Arena di Verona making a big deal about how "formal attire is <B>required</B> in the stalls" (if they actually enforce that, and who really knows what "formal attire" is supposed to mean, and they have yet to do so, we are in trouble so stay tuned).
The sun came out on the way here and cannot ask for more than that.
Today has been a good one thus far. Woke up to light rain in Paris this morning. Checked out of the hotel and was told twice while doing so how sorry the hotel was for our delayed room occupancy when we arrived.
I brought the bottle of champagne the hotel had given us in one of the suitcases. We'll have to consume it somewhere before leaving for home.
Taxi to the Gare de L'Est for the train. The place is always a bit sobering (for me) to leave from given those plaques commemorating the many Jews who were shipped off to the east and almost certain death from the station. And I always make a point of reading those plaques when I'm there, too.
The usual deal with SNCF train movement; you wait for the track number to appear and then there's the usual mad dash onto the platform and into the coaches and the luggage storage drama is played out.
We were on the upper level of a TGV duplex; our car was completely full whereas the lower level was almost totally empty. The train left on the dot and we were soon rolling through the countryside toward Saarbrucken at around 200 mph and on the usual well-maintained roadbed.
Snack box and drinks quickly given out along with newspapers. The food consisted of a fresh croissant and sandwich makings (butter, jam, two kinds if cheese, a ham slice, and cream cheese). Also a small container of yogurt along with some "cereal" mix/topping. Orange juice completed the box; coffee and tea offered separately.
About one minute late into Mannheim for a 15-minute connection to an ICE timing for Munich. Route through Stuttgart, Ulm (the tallest church spire apparently still "rules the world" as far as I know) an on through Augsburg to Munich for an on-time arrival.
We have, in the past, stayed in various hotels all over the city but decided on the Platzl for this trip since it is as close as any hotel to the opera house. We resisted staying in the Platzl for years because it lacked air conditioning and we have usually come to Munich only in hot weather.
But the somewhat recent renovation added the A/C from what I understand so here we are. The hotel backs up to the Hofbrauhaus and this really is "tourist central" which i am sure would be off-putting for many and understandably so.
We had a late lunch outside in one of the local restaurants: salad and soup; snitzel and then down the street for some gelato. Comfort food for sure.
The opera tonight is Midsummernight's Dream which will go on as planned we hope.
In the meanwhile we have received the usual "welcome" email from thee Arena di Verona making a big deal about how "formal attire is <B>required</B> in the stalls" (if they actually enforce that, and who really knows what "formal attire" is supposed to mean, and they have yet to do so, we are in trouble so stay tuned).
The sun came out on the way here and cannot ask for more than that.
Jul 5th, 2014, 01:35 PM
#33
Original Poster
Excuse me, but I only wear flip flops to the beach. Now that we have THAT out of the way I'll attempt a run-down of tonight's activities.
First of all, the venue which is officially known as the National Theater Munich but I suspect a lot of people simply call it "the opera house." There seems to be something about wooden structures and fires and this house burned down in 1817 and 1823 and was bombed in 1943. The present structure interior and I assume part of the exterior date from 1963.
The inside holds about 2100 and has the third largest (depth and width) stage in the world. As you might expect the interior decoration is based on three things: gold leaf/gilt, red velvet, and a hell of a lot of plaster work, mouldings, and chandeliers. Even the backs of the seats are done up in pale rose velvet with gold braid trimming.
The "orchestra" seating is the so-called "continental" configuration without any center aisle. If you get in first you get to do a lot of up and down as folks pass by. As you would expect the folks here are polite to a fault
The majority of attendees at tonight's performance were in understated clothing; lots of coats and ties on the men. And yes, they allowed us in; 9th row center usually has advantages.
The performance tonight was not an opera (we should have looked a little more closely at those 9th row center tickets and if we had we would have seen the word meaning ballet...duh.
So this was not the Britten version of the Shakespeare work but in fact John Neumeier's adaptation which includes Mendelssohn and Ligeti music. This work got terrible reviews in places like San Francisco not too long ago but the audience here went nuts for it.
Very classic form; lots of pale colored costrumes, thin gowns with empire waists on the women; pale colors also on the men. Beautiful staging and the music was everything from classic to hurdy-gurdy and synthesizer.
Two acts; usual long first and then the place totally emptied out and the auditorium doors were locked closed. Majority of folks retreated for drinks as well as food during a very long intermission.
Second act was the protracted wedding scene and what has been described in the past as "uninspired" dancing I really enjoyed.
Showers of stuffed animals at the curtain calls and as people were leaving a sudden additional "pull apart" curtain call took place to cheers and foot stomping.
Overall enjoyable and not a single sung note but memorable for many reasons.
First of all, the venue which is officially known as the National Theater Munich but I suspect a lot of people simply call it "the opera house." There seems to be something about wooden structures and fires and this house burned down in 1817 and 1823 and was bombed in 1943. The present structure interior and I assume part of the exterior date from 1963.
The inside holds about 2100 and has the third largest (depth and width) stage in the world. As you might expect the interior decoration is based on three things: gold leaf/gilt, red velvet, and a hell of a lot of plaster work, mouldings, and chandeliers. Even the backs of the seats are done up in pale rose velvet with gold braid trimming.
The "orchestra" seating is the so-called "continental" configuration without any center aisle. If you get in first you get to do a lot of up and down as folks pass by. As you would expect the folks here are polite to a fault
The majority of attendees at tonight's performance were in understated clothing; lots of coats and ties on the men. And yes, they allowed us in; 9th row center usually has advantages.
The performance tonight was not an opera (we should have looked a little more closely at those 9th row center tickets and if we had we would have seen the word meaning ballet...duh.
So this was not the Britten version of the Shakespeare work but in fact John Neumeier's adaptation which includes Mendelssohn and Ligeti music. This work got terrible reviews in places like San Francisco not too long ago but the audience here went nuts for it.
Very classic form; lots of pale colored costrumes, thin gowns with empire waists on the women; pale colors also on the men. Beautiful staging and the music was everything from classic to hurdy-gurdy and synthesizer.
Two acts; usual long first and then the place totally emptied out and the auditorium doors were locked closed. Majority of folks retreated for drinks as well as food during a very long intermission.
Second act was the protracted wedding scene and what has been described in the past as "uninspired" dancing I really enjoyed.
Showers of stuffed animals at the curtain calls and as people were leaving a sudden additional "pull apart" curtain call took place to cheers and foot stomping.
Overall enjoyable and not a single sung note but memorable for many reasons.
Jul 5th, 2014, 01:40 PM
#34
Original Poster
By the way, Kerouac, thanks to your little photo essay of some time back we went to the Grevin while in Paris. I was anxious to see the internal decoration more than the figures but I will say some of those wax likenesses looked pretty good so thanks for all of that.
Jul 5th, 2014, 05:41 PM
#36
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So sorry about Paris but I would have enjoyed the ballet. I love the area where you are staying in Munich. so close to Dallmayr. I just like to go in there and inhale the smells. So nice they have ac now. You need it in July.
Jul 6th, 2014, 01:52 AM
#38
Original Poster
In terms of the last night's performance NOT being an opera it really became of little importance since we enjoyed what we DID see so very much.
And part of the whole experience is being amidst others and seeing how they act, how they dress, etc. For example, as seems to be "traditional" over here, very few people stand at the end of a performance they really seemed to enjoy. We were told, once, that in Britain people do not stand and applaud.
Last night there were a few people standing at the end but they were all in the upper box tiers (the house has a total of five tiers) and the highest one is kind of a "nosebleed" area.
In terms of the A/C which I was concerned about. It didn't seem all that humid outside yesterday and despite the venue being full last night and all the heat that number of people generates, it was very pleasant throughout the performance. Perhaps I was foolishly worried about nothing.
The weather today is beautiful with clear skys and not too hot.
Tonight's performance is "William Tell" and unless there is a dance-only version of this thing I am assuming we will be hearing some singing.
Thanks, everyone for your kind comments.
And part of the whole experience is being amidst others and seeing how they act, how they dress, etc. For example, as seems to be "traditional" over here, very few people stand at the end of a performance they really seemed to enjoy. We were told, once, that in Britain people do not stand and applaud.
Last night there were a few people standing at the end but they were all in the upper box tiers (the house has a total of five tiers) and the highest one is kind of a "nosebleed" area.
In terms of the A/C which I was concerned about. It didn't seem all that humid outside yesterday and despite the venue being full last night and all the heat that number of people generates, it was very pleasant throughout the performance. Perhaps I was foolishly worried about nothing.
The weather today is beautiful with clear skys and not too hot.
Tonight's performance is "William Tell" and unless there is a dance-only version of this thing I am assuming we will be hearing some singing.
Thanks, everyone for your kind comments.
Jul 6th, 2014, 06:27 AM
#39
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I was talking about A/C in your hotel room at The Platz, at least you have that if it is hot and can close the windows from the noise of the street. The Opera is only for a few hours so could handle that. Clear skys and not too hot does help.
Jul 6th, 2014, 07:41 AM
#40
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I saw a couple of operas in Munich's Nationaltheater, even in July during festival, and never thought it was too hot or humid in there. Maybe they don't have A/C but another well working system that brings fresh air in.
Tonight's "Guillaume Tell" (Rossini) is a new production, premiere was a couple of days ago. It received mixed reviews from the critics - crappy production, orchestra/conductor not good, singers very good. I'm curious what you think, Dukey.
I.
Tonight's "Guillaume Tell" (Rossini) is a new production, premiere was a couple of days ago. It received mixed reviews from the critics - crappy production, orchestra/conductor not good, singers very good. I'm curious what you think, Dukey.
I.
