ekscrunchy

Thanks..this is a bit of a toss up. From what I read, the rooms at Cardenal are not so great; on Trip Advisor people complained that even with its location, it was still a long walk to the "sights." A friend stayed at the parador and told me he had no problem walking into town (far walk from all other accounts).....parador seems much nicer; Cardenal has the better location. We had the same dilemma in Segovia between parador outside town and hotel in city (Los Linares) but the Linares is full so we booked the Segovia parador. Any other opinions on this "dilemma" for Toledo?? Is it easy to find taxis from the parador if we don't want the hassle of driving/parking near town? How easy is it to find parking nearer to the sights, in case we stay at the parador?? Thanks so much, everyone, for your advice!

Chele60

There are no taxis waiting for passengers at the parador in Toledo. The parador staff could summon a taxi for you, but it would require some time to wait for one to arrive. (Not sure of the time involved)

Um, Toledo is comprised of narrow, twisting, maze-like, oneway (for the most part) streets. There is a street that sort of runs the perimeter of the city that is somewhat heavily traveled. But it has very limited areas for one to pull to the side. However, there simply is no parking near the sights in Toledo. That is, if you could find the sights while driving with a car! The places to park we saw were either part of hotels on the edge of the city, such as Hostal Cardenal, or underground lots that were also on the edge of the city.

Either which way, when you go to Toledo, just be prepared to walk. You will do a lot of it, trust me!

ekscrunchy

Thanks for the help. I have been to Toledo in the past and I know what the city is like...twisting roads and all. What I would like to know is how long of a walk is it from the parador to the old city? And by car, is it easy to drive from the parador to a parking area that is closer to the old city than the parador. I realize that you cannot enter inside the walls. All of these questions are to help me decide in which of two hotels to stay: The parador for the views and comfort, or the Cardenal for the convenience of being closer to the sights. And while I am on the subject, I would love recs for eating in the city..good regional food. I am fluent in Spanish and have sense of adventure so no fear of going off the beaten tourist path for good eats! Thanks so much!

Robert2533

The Parador is on the hillside overlooking Toledo. Perfect for an outstanding view of the city and the surrounding countryside, but I don't believe most people would consider it within easy walking distance of the city.

ekscrunchy

Robert, so what do you think about getting to the city from the parador? Easy to drive and park someplace (underground garage)? Parador can phone taxi if we do not drive but are there taxi stands for the ride back? I hope you all are not thinking I am so lazy or infirm; I don't mind walking a mile or so but do not want an hour's hike to get into town. We will arrive after long flight and drive on the first day so do some sightseeing then and most of it the next day.

Update on rest of plan: Have reservations at Parador in Caceres, two nights; then one night parador Segovia; two nights Pedraza Santo Domingo. (Cannot book one night only on weekends)

weber6560

I'm with Nedsireland [?]. Sepulveda is a great place to get an understanding of real life. Have lunch at Posada de Tinin el Mayor. Right downtown in what appears to be a 3-400 year old building.[beware- his son "el minor" also has a place. You simply sit down and the bring leg of lamb from the igloo oven along with a huge salad and wine. More than you can eat. It's geat - no decisions. Juan Carlos is reputed to be a regular client.

IMO, the paradores in both Toledo and Segovi are overrated. Both are away form town. They are great if you want to touch your toe into local life and then go back to 2006 comfort. However, I'd suggest Cardenal in Toledo and either Linares or Infanta Isabel in Segovia. BTW: From Cardenal take a $5 cab ride up the hill, tour the city and then catch the tram that circles the city and just tell them you want to get off at the Cardenal which is near the end of the loop. Cardenal is one of my favorites anywhere. Comfortable but not stuffy.

MLKy thoughts on Pedraza: A beautiful town with one othe great artisans I came across: the silver/pewtersmith. Spent the night there and was lucky enough to find microwaved stuffed pimentoes to share with a German couple who were the only other people in town. You could have shot a cannon down the street and not hit a soul. Don't miss it but don't stay there.

ekscrunchy

About Toledo: I am confused: you say take a taxi from Cardenal to the top of the city? I was considering this place cause it is nearer to the sights than the parador!!

The situation in Pedraza is confusing. I think it is dead during the week and packed on weekends. And the weekend we will be there is the one before May 1. I could not book only one night in Santo Domingo in Pedraza; had to commit to two nights which I did, which tells me they are expecting lots of people that weekend. They are very nice and helpful by e-mail.

In Segovia Linares is full. And since I will be two nights in Pedraza I ony have one in Segovia. So it may be the parador after all. We will arrive from Caceres, visit the city and have dinner, most likely at Jose Maria. Next day, visit Segovia again (or La Granja) then drive to late lunch at Tinin in Sepulveda; I cannot miss this place after reading about it from you and also in Penelope Casas excellent book, Discovering Spain.

From Sepulveda, drive to Pedraza for overnight. Next day could be La Granja or remain in Pedraza. We are trying to book for lunch at El Yantar, recommended by both Penelope Casas and Maribel in her guide. Boy, does she love Segovia and its region!

Chele I apologize to you because you had already answered my questions about the Toledo parador earlier; I have to put it down to my fading memory and excitement about the upcoming trip. I read your very helpful report about your trip; thank you!
so far I have not had response from Toledo parador so will wait and see. Such problems!! Thanks again to Weber and everyone else who has been so helpful.

ekscrunchy

The parador in Toledo will be under "remodelations" from Aptil 06 until summer 07. So I booked at Cardenal.

laclaire

Segovia: my favorite visiting city in Spain.

Good walk: Start at the aqueducto in the morning (10 a.m.). Climb around (but don't actually walk on it!), enjoy the plaza (especially if the sun is beating down), check and make sure you have a reservation for lunch at Cándido (if you back is to the aqueducto, it is on your left, right in front of it), then head up the street (there are a few streets, but when you are there, you should know which one is "the" street. . . I never knew the name) to the Cathedral.

Go inside (you will need a coat for this if you aren't already wearing one), take the tour if you can, enjoy the interior/exterior contrasts, then head out to the plaza for coffee at the place that is on your right, next to the candy store (again, I have no name). Keep walking (this time down) the street, passing by a store called Coscojo. Check out the amazing plaster pieces they do. Get all the way to the Alcázar. Look familiar? It's the Snow White castle (if you have a car, I suggest driving out and getting the approaching view, which for me was tear-filled). Go inside and visit. Take your time and go into every room possible. Try the doors! Check out the view of the Mt. range, and the little farm houses that dot the countryside.

Once outside you can take a taxi back (if you find one), but the walk is really worth it because you want to be hungry when you hit Cándido. Their cochinillo is amazing (I prefer it to the lamb. . . it is what they are known for), and for dessert their helado de mantecado is perfect. Perfect in that not too sweet, creamy but not fatty, hints of cinnamon, but not too much. . . just right perfect.

Claire

ekscrunchy

Claire thank you so much! I will take this with me. I am looking forward to the sucking pig and the lamb in the Segovia area, you cannot imagine how much!!! I ate at Candido about 20 years ago and remember it as one of the most memorable meals I have ever had. Did you visit La Granja? I may have to make a decision between seeing the palace and having lunch at Tinin in Sepulveda. For anyone else this wold be an easy decision but not for me!! What do you, or others, think about La Granja..will I be sorry if I do not go?

weber6560

Re Taxi from Cardenal to the "sights". Old Toledo lis on a hilltop. Cardenal is at the bottom of the hill but really only 4-5 blocks. However, it's a tough 4-5 blocks going up hill. It is definitely walkable but a bit of grind.

ekscrunchy

Thanks, Weber. I booked into Cardenal for the two nights.

Update: Due to unforseen circumstances (fraternity reunion which travel partner "must" attend), trip has been pushed forward two weeks. Caceres parador has room available for only one of our nights. So itinerary now reads:

2 nights..Toledo--Hostal Cardenal..
1 night Trujillo..Parador
1 night Caceres..Parador
1 night Segovia..Parador or Los Linajes (??)
2 nights Pedraza..Santo Domingo (lunch at Tinin in Sepulveda and at El Yantar in Pedraza)

Any comments about La Granja? I will either be able to have lunch at Tinin or visit La Granja; I am leaning toward the first option.

weber6560

I am probably not the best guy to give an opinion on La Granja. It was a dreary and somewhat snowy March day and it left me a bit "cold" - in both senses of the word. If you are a "people" person looking for insights in the Spanish life, I'd go for Tinin. If architecture, etc is more your interest, I'd probably opt for La Granja.

laclaire

ekscrunchy- true story. My host family took me to Cándido during my year abroad so that I would have the experience of their suckling pig. I loved it and when I got home, after a year of not seeing my family, I was telling my grandfather about all I had seen. I said "Oh, and we went to Segovia." He perked up and said "I hope you ate at Cándido. It is right by the acueduct and has really good pig. In fact, I have a picture of your grandmother and I there a while back." Well, he got out the picture and, lo and behold, they were at the same table my hosts and I were (you could tell by the view out the window). I showed him my picture and it was a really emotional moment. Mind you, my grandfather at the time really didn't remember my name, so the fact that he remembered the restaurant shows how special it was to him.

Claire

ekscrunchy

Thank you, Weber! I was leaning to Tinin and you have helped assuage some of my guilt! I have looked at their web site and have been thinking about the lamb with increasing enthusiasm, and increasing appetite!

artlover

We stayed at Hostal Cardenal and loved it. I thought the rooms were lovely and the grounds were really fantastic AND they have parking. We walked into town and I don't recall it being that long a walk.

Have a great trip and please report back to us.

ekscrunchy

Claire that story was very moving about your grandfather. You know, I also ate at Candido many years ago and I have a very clear memory of the place, much clearer than I do of the rest of Segovia! Maybe there is something about a food memory that lingers after others have faded! Well you all have been such a big help to me. I will surely report back..we are going in May, I already have the reservations for lunch at Cardenal (right after we arrive so we will be tired from the flight and drive to Toledo) and for lunch at Tinin in Sepulveda and at El Yantar in Pedraza! Hope to bring home lots of food memories and othr kinds as well!

2 nights Cardenal (Toledo)
1 night Parador (Trujillo)
1 night Parador (Caceres)
1 night Segovia..(Parador or Los Linajes)
2 nights Santo Domingo (Pedraza) (have to book two nights on weekends)

I have been reading about the villages in the Las Hurdes and La Vera Valleys and they sound lovely. Not sure if we have time to drive through either of these areas but would love to hear if anyone has been and what their impressions are.

laclaire

See Bunuel's "tierra sin pan" (land without bread) before doing the Hurdes! Very interesting.

Claire

ekscrunchy

I will see if I can rent this on www.netflix.com. If you have been there, let me know what you think, ok? Muchisimas gracias, Claire.

ekscrunchy

La Tierra Sin Pan is not on DVD but I can reserve it on tape at my library and I will. Surprisingly, there is a wait for it. I know nothing about this area of Spain but was intrigued to read the description in both Cadogan's Spain guide and in Penelope Casas book, Discovering Spain. I like both of these books a lot. Fodors does not cover Extremadura in their Spain guide.