Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

One Traveler's Opinion: Accidental Witnesses to History

Search

One Traveler's Opinion: Accidental Witnesses to History

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 24th, 2008, 10:28 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
One Traveler's Opinion: Accidental Witnesses to History

One of my morning rituals is to read ‘This Day in History’ in my local paper. Some of the information is obscure (was William Shakespeare ready born on April 25?) and some is of value principally to would-be ‘Jeopardy’ contestants (on this date in 1883 President Chester Allan Arthur signed the Civil Service Reform Act). But occasionally I read an entry and a smile breaks out across my face. I think to myself, “I was there.”

My wife and I were abroad in April 1986. I had been invited to attend a financial conference in Monaco. For three days we were wined and dined at beautiful seaside villas while enjoying luxurious accommodations at the Loews Monte Carlo. On the fourth morning of the conference, we turned on CNN (then still a novelty in Europe) and found ourselves unexpectedly seeing a map of the Mediterranean and a grim-faced anchor with his ear pressed to a receiver. “We’re awaiting words that the last plane has returned successfully,” he said, cryptically.

It turned out that during the night, the US had carried out a raid against Libya. As we gazed out over the Mediterranean from our balcony, we had a disquieting feeling that, somewhere to the south of us, Muammar Gaddafi was also scanning the Mediterranean, wondering where he could get his hands on some Americans. Naturally, we wondered, do we really want to be here? So did everyone else at the conference. It dissolved on the spot and armed guards appeared in the hallways.

Monaco had been planned at the first leg of a 19-day trip, the balance of which was for pleasure. We left Monaco for Paris where we checked into our favorite hotel, a delightful small place on the Rue de Belloy in the diplomatic quarter. We were awakened on our first night by an explosion two blocks away. France and Spain had not allowed overflights of US aircraft taking part in the raid. Partisans of those countries that deplored the raid set off bombs at the embassies of those which applauded it. Those who approved of the raid set off bombs at the embassies and business entities of those who sided with Gaddafi. On our third night, a bomb went off less than a block from our hotel. The following day, we picked our way around the wreckage of an airline office.

It was time to get out of town. We headed for Chantilly and a wonderful lunch. Lunch included trout and oysters. To shorten what would otherwise be a longer story, either the trout or the oysters were tainted. That night, my wife got sick. Very sick. The next day, we took a cab to the American Hospital, a trip made considerably longer by the need to inspect all cars for bombs. Bed rest was ordered.

Three days later, my wife was well enough to travel and we set out by train for Vienna. Now, it was my turn to be sick. Ten hours out of Paris, I was afraid I was going to die. Sixteen hours out of Paris, I was afraid I wasn’t going to die. But we had a wonderful room on the St. Stephenplatz and my wife brought me reports of the city. After a few days I felt well enough to go out and enjoy late April in Vienna.

One night, we dined at an outdoor café and fell into a conversation with an elderly couple who wanted to practice their English. We remarked that the weather was wonderfully warm and the couple smiled and explained that we were indeed lucky. Ordinarily, Vienna’s weather in late April was rather wet and rainy with the winds blowing from the north. We had come to Austria to find a foehn blowing in much warmer and drier air from the east. We smiled at our fortune. Finally, we had caught a break. For the next few days we enjoyed long walks around that charming city, even taking in the Prater amusement park in the evening.

On our last morning, as we packed to leave, I picked up a copy of the International Herald Tribune and saw the eight-column headline: DISASTER AT CHERNOBYL. The Soviets, of course, had kept the news a secret for three days. Accompanying it was a wonderful map showing the progress of a radiation plume across central Europe. The thickest, blackest part of the plume went right over Vienna. So much for the foehn.

We left Europe thinking we had just endured the worst vacation of our lives. But time has a strange effect on memory. After a few years, it was stopped being the Trip from Hell and became something of an adventure. As travelers, we had become unwitting participants in a small piece of history.

I guess that’s what happens when you travel. Eventually, you learn there’s no such thing as a ‘bad trip.’
Neal_Sanders is offline  
Old Apr 24th, 2008, 11:13 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,919
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
What a long, strange trip that was, Neal.

In August 1968, I was leaving the Soviet Union after two weeks (talk about a long, strange trip) and headed for Prague on an overnight train. Per the Soviet way of enforcing secrecy and control, as the train approached the border crossing from Ukraine into Czechoslovakia around dawn, the window shades were drawn closed (as they had been when I entered the country from Helsinki). But we weren't allowed to open the shades again, and the train never did reach Prague. Somewhere along the way (probably Brno), we were detoured out of the country and into Poland without explanation. I didn't find out what was going on until that evening. The Soviets were invading Czechoslovakia!

I was there, but I didn't see a thing!
Jean is offline  
Old Apr 24th, 2008, 11:42 AM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Neal -

Your post generated my "I was there" moment. I guess I never really noted the date. I was a college student enjoying my semester abroad in Vienna during the first half of 1986. Interestingly enough, a group of friends and I travelled to Dubrovnik (in what was then a part of Yugoslavia) over our spring break. We found out about Chernobyl while vacationing. I specifically remember reading all of the cautions about eating fresh produce. At that time, apparantly much of the "local" lettuce and other vegetables were grown in an area effected by the accident. As I recall, it was somewhat difficult even then to get much information on what happened. My parents in the US seemed to have much more information and were therefore far more concerned.
Momof3sons is offline  
Old Apr 24th, 2008, 11:50 AM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thank you for posting a most interesting recollection!
rivoli is offline  
Old Apr 25th, 2008, 05:15 AM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yes, my "I was there" was next door in Bucharest, Romania. Not knowing what had just happened we all went outdoors on the many lakes that surround the capital city to celebrate May First. It was days later that we were given Iodine tablets and were told that we were safe to enjoy the summer season at the Black Sea coast. I see posters in American schools showing the wind path following Chernobyl, I sort of want to look, but I end up walking away.
MilenaM is offline  
Old Apr 25th, 2008, 05:29 AM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 25,686
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
I turned up in Cuba when Clinton (male) started to turn the boats back and they stoned a hotel. Guess which hotel we booked into.

Amazingly we were still booked in as floor 5 to 8 were undamaged (can only throw rocks so far. Each day we crunched over the broken glass to the street...
bilboburgler is offline  
Old Apr 25th, 2008, 05:51 AM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,556
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Very close friends of mine and their 2 children aged 3 and 1 at the time, who I thought were in another part of the world on a diplomatic assignment were actually on vacation in Thailand and were caugh right in the middle of the recent Tsunami.
Very very luckily, they survived and are now back home from their assignment but their retelling of their experiences and of being trapped underwater as they valiantly tried to escape and save others (not all successful) still sends tingles.
Mathieu is offline  
Old Jul 6th, 2008, 05:38 AM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,691
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I just stumbled on your thread, Neal. What a crazy trip you had! But at the same time, how exciting to have been there for this little slice of history.

BTW, one of my nephews was serving in the Navy at that time, on an aircraft carrier which participated in the raid on Libya.

Robyn >-
artstuff is offline  
Old Jul 6th, 2008, 06:28 AM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 27,614
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
In 1974, back when I still lived in England, I was traveling with a small tour group in Turkey. Our last morning, our guide told us that Greece and Turkey had gone to war over Cyprus, and Istanbul airport had been closed. We had been on one of the last planes to land before it closed, flying back from the south coast. The city was blacked out, and we were stuck. (I couldn’t see much point in the blackout - surely Istanbul must be easily recognizable from the air even without lights!)

The tourist officials in Istanbul were great - I spent an extra day revisiting the museums at Topkapi, but they put on a day trip to the islands in the Bosphorus for anyone who wanted to go. Then we were loaded into carriages added to the back of the Orient Express (the original, still running then). Not as glamorous as it sounds! We sat up for over 12 hours (overnight) from Istanbul to Sofia, with no restaurant car (fortunately I hadn’t believed there would be one, and boarded with food and water), and miserable toilets. The scenery in Bulgaria was fascinating, though.

From Sofia we flew to London, with a stopover somewhere behind the Iron Curtain. We had to deplane for refueling, and walked into the terminal building between lines of soldiers with rifles. The airport was ringed by tanks.
thursdaysd is offline  
Old Jul 6th, 2008, 07:13 AM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
It's not really a secret anymore but Spain and France did allow the U.S. planes to overfly their territory for that raid in 1986. The U.S. was allowed to fly over the Pyrenees closely following the border line, so that both countries could deny that U.S. planes had actually flown over the countries themselves.
analogue is offline  
Old Jul 6th, 2008, 08:56 AM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,652
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
thursdaysd,

That day, my parents, one-year-old sister and I were flying to Greece when the airport closed. KLM took us to Amsterdam instead.
MademoiselleFifi is offline  
Old Jul 6th, 2008, 09:13 AM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My cousin, a geologist, was in Budapest Hungary in , when was it? 1956, and looked out of the window of his hotel and saw Soviet tanks rolling down the street.

In 1997, a friend and I had just flown in to London, and it seemed madly festive, people were walking up and down the streets with British flags and broad smiles. We decided to walk down Whitehall, and the crowds got thicker and thicker, a huge throng was pressed against a wrought Iron picket- fence gateway across the street. Bobbies held back the cheering people as long black cars entered, and pulled up to -- 10 Downing street, where we could see people getting out and shaking hands with -- Tony Blair, who had just been elected the night before.
travelerjan is offline  
Old Jul 6th, 2008, 10:49 AM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,669
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great thread - thanks, Neal!

my I was there didn't happen abroad, but here at home. We were returning to the states from a tour of duty abroad, parents, LS and I, than a teenager. We were staying in the Howard Johnson's hotel that used to be across the street from the Watergate. One morning, Mom was reading the Post, and buried in the A section was a short piece about a break in across the street. She said, with prescience, This is going to be big. And, it was...
Momliz is offline  
Old Jul 6th, 2008, 03:33 PM
  #14  
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,818
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Neal et al:

In March 1993, we crashed Vaclav Havel's Press Conference at Hradcany Castle,overlooking Prague...we had absolutely no idea of the significance of the conference...but here's how it developed.

This was a freezing cold March 30, with sleet and slippery going...as we walked up the steep Nerudova Street to the castle...when we arrived, there ws no admission..it was Monday, castle closed, but grounds open..no one there. The guard allowed us into the grounds, we visit "Gold Street" and the church...afterwich we spotted some TV vans at the castle entrance. Our only thought was to get inside to keep warm before descending back into town. As we stepped inside this wing, there was a tall burly-
surly sitting at a metal detector. I noticed a woman standing by with a badge that read "Press Foto"..I approached her and asked what was going on...she spoke a perfect English and announced..."we're waiting for Havel's Press Conference".
I asked her if we could attend, and she laughed and said,
"Yes, if you have press credentials"

This called for a conference with my co-perpetrator, and we voted 2-0 to try entering with our passports and driver's licenses. Bravely we sauntered to the line for the metal detector, reached Sgt. Burly-Surly and he said something in Czech. The friendly woman who had just preceded us through the detector, turned and said.."He wants your ID."
Both of us smiled at him while handing over our passports and
California driver's licenses...at which point, the Sgt. asked something again in Czech..and
thankfully, the woman reporter had not left us behind, interpreting for us..."he wants the name of the newspaper you represent"...to which I answered, "The Los Angeles Times"...he looked at a posted list, probably did not find it on the list, but gestured us forward, handing us two "Press-Foto" Badges...we were in!

Our lady friend, it turned out, was with Reuters and proceeded to tell us that this was to be a very significant conference, in preparation for tomorrow's first visit by the PM of the newly established country of Slovakia (the historic Czechoslvakan
split had taken part just two months before!)...We filed into the arena-style auditorium, and we noticed that the dais had a pair of Birds of Paradise next to it...fittingly proper...The California State Flower!! Roz (wife) had two sheets of notebook paper in her bag, and I told her to look like she was taking notes during VH's speech...he entered, introduced by his press secretary..and he spoke for one full hour, all in Czech...the Q and A sesson was in Czech, German, French and English.

Following this, Havel slowly passed through, allowing numerous photos to be taken...and there I was with all of the Press and Foto types, with my little Minolta, snapping away...came off with some great closeups of the poet-author-President. As we left the wing, the Reuter's Lady said.."well, you pulled it off!"

We thanked her profusely and off we went into the freezing cold. Smug as smug can be!

stu t. (I can post scanned pix
if anyone is interested)
tower is offline  
Old Jul 6th, 2008, 03:39 PM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,818
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Errata:


Just looked at my journal, and
It was March 29th, 1993...

>>>PM of the newly established country of Slovakia<<<

and it was actually for the next day visit of Kovac, the Slovakian President.
tower is offline  
Old Jul 6th, 2008, 04:40 PM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 45,322
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Uhm, Stu with all due respect the last I knew the California Poppy was the State Flower of California. But in any case I love your post and your adventure!
LoveItaly is offline  
Old Jul 6th, 2008, 09:16 PM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,818
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
LoveItaly:


Yeah, my mistake...the Bird of Paradise is L.A.'s City Flower...I think Alex Trebec once got this wrong on Jeopardy, and gave credit to the contestant when he shouldn't have.

How's it going in the Sac Valley?

stu t.
tower is offline  
Old Jul 6th, 2008, 09:29 PM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 45,322
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Stu, well we had ten days of a horrible smokey sky and air due to the Wild Horse Fire that spread from Napa County to Solano County. But that fire happily is now out and there were no fatalities or injuries and only a couple of barns and one vacant house was destroyed.

It is hot here, hot enough to need the AC by afternoon but not terrible.

Crime is up a bit, no shock as that always happens when the economy goes bad.

Personally things have settled down to a calm pace now. The death of my son-in-law's mother in Rome a few weeks ago was sad especially as my son-in-law and daughter could not go to Rome to be with her (due to SIL's job).

I hope all is well with you two and your loved ones Stu. It is always good to see your posts. Take good care and have a happy summer!


LoveItaly is offline  
Old Jul 6th, 2008, 10:56 PM
  #19  
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,849
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thursdaysd,and Mme. Fifi,

That day in 1974 I was in Lyon, France. My practice wife and four children were in Kyrenia, Cyprus. We had been sailing in Europe and the Med for a couple of years, in a sailboat, when the money ran out and so did the wife -- In Cyprus.

Long story, but she took the kids and jumped ship to stay in Kyrenia with her new fella. Being broke, I took the boat, mostly single handed, across the Med to Marseilles and then, with the mast down, headed up the Rhone, and planned to go through the canals to Amsterdam to sell her.

I had reached Lyon, when the Turks invaded Cyprus. Their main landing point was Kyrenia, and the radio said they were bombing the infrastructure. Since my kids were in an apartment near the radio station, I was frantic. I desperately called embassies, radio stations, news services, and anyone else I could, to get information, but nobody could tell me anything.

I planned to turn the boat around, charge down the river and across the Med to Cyprus and put on my own mini Dunkirk. Turned out the Brits did it for me before I got very far. They sent boats ashore to rescue their nationals (Practice Wife was British) under the guns of one of their cruisers. The family was later flown back to England, and all was well.

Not a happy time --


nukesafe is offline  
Old Jul 7th, 2008, 05:00 AM
  #20  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 27,614
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
MademoiselleFifi - Amsterdam instead of Athens? Downer. Did you make it to Greece at all?

nukesafe - quite a story! I was just inconvenienced - no bombs! But it's such a pity that's it been over 30 years and the Cyprus situation is still a mess.

Did anyone see the "No Reservations" episode where Bourdain was stuck in Beirut during the last round of unpleasantness?

thursdaysd is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -