We'll be in Croatia in May/June, staying two nights in Rovinj as part of our trip. For our one full day on the Istrian peninsula, we'd like to tour the hilltowns in our rental car. Does anyone have a one-day itinerary to share, starting and ending in Rovinj with a restaurant recommendation for lunch? We're a family of four (two teens) and prefer smaller towns to larger ones. Also looking for good photo opportunities along the way. Thanks for any info you can provide.

Motovun is the must see hill town. I think Pula is the other town (on the coast) that is worth visiting. It's got a lovely Roman amphitheater and a small museum stuffed full of ancient amphoras. Rovinj is definitely worth the full days, on it's own. Be sure to explore the many small alley ways in the old town. I really enjoyed taking a boat excursion to the fjiords. Rovinj is magical. I hope you enjoy it.

From Rovinj take the road over the spine of the peninsula to Gracisce then to Opatija and/or Rijeka. Then follow the eastern coast road of the peninsula southward to Plomin, then over the top on a different road to Gracisce again and on down the other side to Porec, and from there south to Rovinj. Great little villages along the way. There is an old hotel in Opatija whose name I can't quite recall, but it has a great restaurant. I think it is the Kvarner. This is a great area and I would wish you could spend more time there. Good luck.

We have been roaming around this general area for a few years now and would go along with Wayne's advice on the route, all those little towns have something about them. Our favorite restaurant by far is Le Mandrac in old Volosko fishing village, just voted best in the area by Gault & Millau 2009 guide.
Getting around will be easy as the season will not yet be in full swing, also drive up Mount Ucka for spectacular shots of the Kvarner bay.

I would not want to disagree with the previous posts, and I have eaten at Le Mandrac and was more than satisfied, but I think that for a one day drive you would be in the car the entire time. I love this area and know all the backroads and hilltop towns and villages, and recommend them all - but for one day you really should allow time to get out, walk a bit, and let the details and the view sink in. The entire area is beautiful, healthy and peaceful...as long as you slow down and allow Istria to work its magic.
From Rovinj, I could imagine a nice trip starting with a walk around the Dvigrad ruins, if you are interested in that sort of history, then one of two routes:
1. [not my first choice by the way] East to Labin, then north through some of the small hilltop villages - a few of them have castle/ruins, then turning west through Gracisce to Pazin, then further west, maybe stopping at the Buscarin [giant Istria oxen] farm, then back to Rovinj.
2. [yes, my favorite choice] The loop here would take you further to the north, incorporating the area known as Istrian Toscana [but actually more like Umbria in my opinion]. Start towards Pazin and continue through Hum and Roc [or shorter option through Draguc, old center of Buzet, lunch up at Zrenj [you will never forget a meal there, nor the view - either at Toncic or Pietropelosa], then Oprtalj, [maybe Zavrisje and Groznjan also], Motovun, then back to Rovinj [by way of the Buscarin?].
These routes may take a little fine tuning, depending upon the weather and how long you linger in one place. And of course many of my favorite places are left off this list, maybe for next time.

Check these areas out online and, if you have questions or need more details, I'll be happy to follow up.

michael

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I hope suffrock won't mind my jumping in here, but I have a similar question. I'm planning 2 half-days to explore Istrian hill towns and want to make sure I have time to walk through a few and experience their charm.

My current plan is to leave Rovinj mid-to-late morning and go to Porec, if possible taking a route that lets me see the Limski Kanal. I expect to spend several hours in Porec (the basilica is a must-see on my list). Then I hope to stop in Motovun on my way to Gracsice, where I will spend the night.

The next morning, I hope to visit Pazin and Beram and then the Glagolitic Alley (Roc and Hum). From there, I will head to Plitvice Lakes, where I will spend the night. I definitely want to reach my lodging before nightfall, which I think will be about 8:30 p.m. or so.

Does that plan sound realistic? Would you suggest any changes?

Thanks!

I totally agree with Michael's route - you need to include little towns such as Hum, Buzet, Groznjan, Grascice, etc. Motovun is lovely BUT can be totally overrun with tourist buses, depending on what time you are there.

kja, I love your plan - it is doable and you will get to see some of the best parts of Istria that many people so unfortunately miss out on. However, the only thing I would not say is a must see is Pazin. It is a nice town but lacks the charm of other towns.

What time of the year are you going? If in Autumn make sure to find a konoba featuring truffles on their menus and also try a roadside spit or the roadside stands selling lovely local produce.

Thanks, travel2live2 - Given your experience with (and love of) Istria, I take your endorsement very seriously! I've been planning to visit Pazin because the setting of the castle sounds impressive and I've read favorable reviews of its ethnography museum. Too, I thought an hour or so in the museum would provide a nice contrast to roaming around the hill towns. Does that make sense? Is there an alternative that would fit in light of the rest of my plan?

kja, you are too sweet! Thank you for your encouragement. The setting of the castle is impressive and the gorge is nice. I have not actually been to the museum (shame on me!). I wasn't sure whether you were going just for the town or not - I should have read the posts more carefully!! What you say does make sense - you want a good balance. If you are interested in sort of unique things maybe go on a kazun hunt and see how many you can find! http://www.trekearth.com/gallery/photo406804.htm

I have to agree with travel2live2 regarding Pazin, and this even though one of my best Istrian friends lives there! I would mention a couple towns that are always overlooked that are indeed worthwhile. Buje is the most underrated. I have my weekend house only 5 kms away in Momjan, and all my services are based there, but it took me years before I ever set foot in the upper old center of Buje. It is absolutely charming! One thinks that Buje center is at the ugly roundabout, so it is best to simply pass on by, but park and take the walk up. There is not much as far as shops or restaurants, but wandering the old streets until you find the pillory pole [yes, it still exists just in front of the upper church] is worth it, if only because no other tourists know it.
Buzet, again the upper old town, is a place I am highly recommending for my friends who come to visit. Here, unlike Buje, there are some nice shops and very good food to be found.
Labin is also a town I like to visit at least once a year or so.
Don't leave Istria hungry!!! Food is not only fantastic, but in the right place you'll also experience the other most memorable thing about Istria - its people. Small, family run Konobas abound, and in many you'll actually feel as if you have become part of the family. On weekends, Marijana and I cycle all over Istria's smaller roads and tracks, still discovering new places and people. My favorites list includes: Rino's in Momjan [100meters down the street and it is my second kitchen], Toncic and Pietropelosa in Zrenj [best food in Istria is found in this small village with the spectacular views], Dolina between Livade and Istarska Toplice on the back road, the konoba in Beram [forgot the name], Maslina Grana in Kastel, the Konoba in Sovinjak [slso a great view], and Loggia in Oprtalj for a snack and wine. Always try the prsut/proscuitto and cheese, with fresh bread...these are products of each agroturismo konoba and indicators of quality. Family agroturismos/konobas serve what is in season and fresh - what mushrooms are in season,salads of fresh rucola, wild asparagus in Spring, truffles [there are 4 edible varieties found in Istria, 3 dark and 1 white, and the dark overlap all seasons] sliced or shredded over toast or pasta and gnocci made fresh daily. Heavy soups in winter, family recipies for sausages, along with Istrian soup [laugh here - Istrian soup is not a soup, but a very tasty pitcher of hot red wine, olive oil, ground pepper, and soaked in toast], and...one of my favorite things - peka. Peka is a dish cooked for hours under the fireplace embers, with a mixture of meats and Istrian potatoes with rosemary and other herbs. Phone ahead to Toncic and have the best Peka in Istria..or anywhere.
If seafood is what you want - then only right at the coast [except for Astarea in Brtoniglja!] and ask around for a recommendation from locals. For every one great seafood place, there are 20 mediocre ones charging higher prices for tourists. Select carefully and you'll be happy.

Sorry for rambling on...it's Thursday and I'm at work in Bosnia, but already thinking of what I'll eat tomorrow evening in Istria. If it wasn't for cycling the peaceful backroads of Istria, I'd weigh a ton.

btw...you know how to visit the small chapel with the fantastic frescoes near Beram? Park at the church in Beram, knock on the door to house number [I think] 38, and the woman there will drive with you the 2kms or so into the woods to unlock the chapel. It's worth it, so don't be embarrassed about not speaking the local language.

uaz, I TOTALLY agree. Buje is one of my new favourites and not very far from our house. In fact in my post I meant to include Buje in the list and I accidentally typed Buzet. Not that there is anything wrong with Buzet at all - Buje has loads of charm.

I love your descriptions of the food, too - Istria is paradise for foodies like me! Konobas are indeed the way to go for the best ingredients and authentic experience. I just love the roadside spit grills and food stands. You are making me extremely hungry with your peka descrption! One of my favourite things. Right now we are still under about three feet of snow which has been on the ground consistently since November so I want Spring NOW. Nothing in season here (Canada) but I know that asparagus is happening in Istria.

Thank you for mentioning Beram - it is one of my favourite Istria memories. You have given excellent advice.

uaz04: I've read lots of great things about Rino's in Momjan. We're considering stopping there for lunch on our way down from Slovenia. Is a reservation necessary? I emailed them but haven't gotten a response. Thanks.

Ha ha ha...I'm laughing because I'd be surprised if Rino or Tinka EVER went online!!!
No, reservations are not needed, but if you let me know the date, number of people and possible time I'll make sure they save a nice table for you.
I'd go as far as to order your appetizer for you - Toast con Tartufi for everyone. Whenever we eat there, no matter how many we are, they know to just go ahead and put the toast on the grill for all of us. [toaster..what's a toaster?]
Rino's best, in my opinion, is the Gnocci con Tartufi. Why? Because it is very rare to find any restaurant that does not soak every tartufi dish in heavy cream...and I really hate that! Rino's gnocci is possibly the best I've ever had [just the right combination of Istrian potato and pasta]--- which you won't even see because it is COVERED with shredded tartufi..usually a mix of dark and light, depending upon what is fresh.
This time of year - for sure have the fusi con sparagi...fresh wild asparagus with a bit of speck cooked into the mix.
Good timing..it is past 6:30 now and my work day is well and truly over. I'm going home to eat
If any of you from Fodor's are in my Istrian neighborhood, feel free to let me know and I would personally introduce you to the local chefs, or winemakers. Normally, I'm only in Istria on weekends, but increasingly we are extending the weekends by another day or more.

You are all making me so hungry! Thanks for all the excellent advice!

uza, we will be at our Istrian house May and October - I'm a chef and would LOVE to meet the local chefs and winemakers there!

This is Rino's, right?:
http://www.prelac.hr/Eng/o_nama.htm
I found the link here:
http://www.istria-gourmet.com/en/gas...ch-0?&l_over=2
We'll be in the area June 3-5, but targeting June 3 for lunch in Momjan. I'd appreciate any info you can provide on good vineyards where we could buy some good local wine. Thanks again!

Yes, that is the link to Rino's indeed, but I don't think they are checking or updating it. The picture of the Konoba exterior is about 2 years old and does not show the addition of recent balconies, etc.
I'll tell them to expect some new guests that week.

For wine, you are in the right place. Try this link for a map of the Buje region wine roads - http://www.istra.com/zupan/eng/vinbuj.html
You will also find the Porec, Buzet and other regions there.

If you stop in Buje, or Groznjan, or Livade, or even other towns, you will find a Zigante Tartufi shop. They sell a sampling of many Istrian wines, cheeses, truffles and truffle products. Can I make a couple suggestions?

Be the hero of your next home gettogether - buy the small jars of Miele con Tartufi...yes, that means honey with truffles. I believe that Marijana and I are responsible for it being produced in Istria now. We found this as an appetizer on the menu of a restaurant in San Gimignano, presented with the truffled honey in a shallow ramekin, surrounded by alternating slices of pear and pecorino cheese, each of which are dipped into the honey. It sounds strange, but it is a food of the gods. We could not find it available to buy anywhere, so on the next trip the same restaurant gave me a supply, but later we encouraged two honey companies in Istria to develop it, and Zigante has succeeded. I've tried, but it is more than simply a matter of letting truffle slices set in honey [like truffled olive oil].
Another Istria fave of mine is the local grappa or rakija. I'm not a big drinker, besides wine, but I do love two of the local selections - one called "figa" or "smokva" soaked in figs for 2 years, and another made with nuts, called "orahevica". There is a truffle grappa that I drank at the Kozlovic winery - it is lovely as well, and if I were away from Istria long, I'd have it for the truffle memories.

travel2live2 - We'll see you in May!

Bookmarking.

Just returned from 4 days in Istria and I used this blog as a guide. Thanks for the tips.
Restaurants:
We ate at Le Mandrac (in Volosko), Valsabbion (nr Pula) and Rino's (in Momjan).
Toncic (at Zrenj) couldn't handle us just turning up and asked us to phone ahead so they lost our custom which was Rino's gain.
Rino's tagliatelle with grated tartufi was absolutely to die for. A must for gastronomes.
Le Mandrac was good but a little overpriced (they tried to fob me off with dried pasta for the price of fresh pasta - but when I complained they took it off the bill).
Valsabbion was expensive but a real gastronomic extravaganza. The highlight was a clam encased and baked in black salt. Broken open at the table, so the clam could open, WOW!
Zigante honey with truffles in is also to die for.
Favourite Places:
Rovinj
Fazana - even if you don't go on the island excursions, just sitting by the fishing boats with a drink is lovely.
Motovun - a must see, hilltop town just like in Tuscany.
Opatija/Volosko and south - wonderful old buildings on the sea front
Roc and Hum with the glagolitic alphabet alley.
Kamenjak peninsula Safari bar (on southernmost tip) - enchanting bar with home made playground- a must see - wonderful calamari garlic butter sandwich. Worth the drive, take your snorkel!
Momjan - should feature more in the above blog!!! we loved it. It's the only place we could imagine living in. uaz04 you're very lucky to live there.
Thanks for all your previous posts.