4ddawgs82

Preface - Our recent trip to Vibraye, France ( region of Sarthe- Loire Valley - 40 km east of Lemans ) actually began 65 years ago. On May 21 1944, 14 days before the Allied DDay Invasion Capt MAS of the US Army Air Force 395 Ftr SQ 386 Ftr GP was mortally wounded in a dogfight with a German about noon in heavily overcast skies. The Vibraysiennes knew exactly what had happened even though they could not see the airplanes. They knew from the sound that an Allied Soldier was down in the Forest of Vibraye about 2km south of their village. A fiery explosion followed. After a few weeks his young wife in Maryland and his family in Alabama were notified - Capt MAS was MIA. About two years later their worst fears were confirmed Capt MAS was killed in action. His remains had been discovered / recovered in a small village. At the wishes of his widow and his parents Capt MAS was disenterred and his remains were moved to the American Cemetery in Normandy to remain with his men and the others who fought with him.


A number of years later JE a young man living near LeMans begins to realize what an important role Allied Forces played in the freedoms he enjoyed as a Frenchman. He noticed total indifference in his parents. This fueled a passion to locate Allied Soldiers who were killed in action in his home district of Sarthe in the upper Loire Valley. His own family almost grown he began to research. He finds information on fallen soldiers in many small towns across his home region. He begins to gather information and starts to contact families all over North America thanking them for the sacrifice their loved one made for his freedom. His goal is to leave a lasting tribute to each one.


About four years ago my mother in law receives a call from the "new" husband of the former MrsS. MrsS is being contacted by a Frenchman about Capt MAS. Unfortunately ( or fortunately) MrsS is in the early stages of Alzhiemers and does not remember the painful events some 60 years before. Maybe she - his sister and only remaining survivor- would like to correspond with this mystery man from France? He was forwarding her contact information to him so she could correspond if she wished.

Correspondence continued for three years. A mutal respect and friendship developed as he expained his passion, reported his findings and worked on details. Would she come to France? Could she come to France - was her heatlh good enough at 82- 83 - 84 to withstand the travel? MIL has her knee replaced in anticipation of the trip coming together. A street will be named in honor of Captain S. The "program" as JE calls it is stalled - some problem with City Hall he is working to have things resolved. Finally a date is being thrown around .. what about the 65th anniversary if his death and the 65th Commemoration of DDay ? May 2009? Would she come? Would her family come? How many? It is all very exciting. JE is forthcoming about many things but between the language barrier and his desire to keep his "program" a surprise the family begins to plan their trip. Four Days in Vibraye France. Then travel to Normandy for the American Observance of Memorial Day Sunday May 24.

Four days in Vibraye - really? Where will we stay? What will we do? What is near by? Vibraye seems to be a dot that is not even on every map. When we ask around no one has heard of Vibraye. We run some internet searches and find that this is a really nice region of rural France. Very interesting medieval towns and not too far from the Loire. It all looks very promising. Not to worry about accomodations - taken care of. No, there wil be eight of us that is not necessary - oh but we insist.

Kid's school schedules are re - arranged - even high school finals- we are confident this will be a learning experience you would never recieve in a classroom. Passports ordered Check. Tickets purchased -Check

It is real. We are going - 8 direct descendants for Capt MAS. His sister MSM and her family - two daughters, two sons, two grandchildren and me DIL.

Day One ( actually Day 5) but Day one of this experience.- Pick up rental car and leave Paris 10h. Arrive Chartres to hear Malcolm Miller's talk at noon in the Cathedral.

Drive to Lemans to meet JE. Finally after all this time actually MSM meets JE on the sidewalk in LeMans! It is a wonderful moment for MSM and JE. We follow JE through old town LeMans and we are on the Auto Route to Vibraye. Arrive Vibraye 17h for reception at 18h. We arrive at the Relais de Chapeau Rouge in Vibraye Centre are shown where to park and given keys to four rooms. No one speaks English and our French is mediocre at best. We manage to get some medicine refrigerated in the hotel kitchen and our teeth brushed before we are escorted by a very excited JE and Mr Mayor JB to the Hotel de Ville for a welcome reception.

This is where the real excitement experience begins ...

More later

avalon

All the initials are confusing me but I do get the drift and it is a wonderful story and memory for your family

peterboy

Wonderful...I can't wait...

tower

Thank you! Thank you! I salute the memory of Captain MAS...American hero. Some story...please go on!

stu tower

4ddawgs82

Sorry about the initials - I will come up with something better - just trying to keep a little "privacy" for the main "characters"

This is my first trip report so I welcome any suggestions.

taconictraveler

Oh, this is going to be just a great story -- please tell us more.. ...

4ddawgs82

Allow me to back up a minute ...
Remember details have been sketchy about the exact "program" but this is what we knew

1. Mayor's reception
2. Visit crash site
3. Visit grave
4. have lunch with a witness of the crash


Ok so here we are about to walk in to a reception.

The Reception is in the Hotel D'Ville hall.

We are greeted by 50- 75 people all smiles and curious about us. Tables full of food and wine and juice.

The whole room was a buzz in seconds with hellos and bonjours and warm welcomes. The ice is broken. Some one tells us that the people on one side of the room are the city or area council and on the other side is the WITNESSES ( PLURAL ) and their families! Surprise number one.

Yea we have an interpreter! Nora is an American who married a Frenchman. She is fluent in both languages and teaches English at the local school. What a life saver!!

With in 15 minutes we learn the crash was midi - noon - not night. Suprise two.

(Now as I think back Nana was only 19 when this tragedy to her family occured. Her father sent for her at College and had her return home. I am sure he spared her many details and the mind chooses to forget the most painful after 65 years)

We are introduced all around the Mayor gives a welcome speech and presents Nana with roses and gives each family represented a book on the Sarthe as well as a souvenir of Vibraye.

We are introduced to their local Kir and specialites of the area.

We especially like the Rillettes a local pork spread that is "sold around the world".

Our Host presents the mayor with a replica of Capt MSM's plane.

The room is decorated with American Flags, French flags and photos of Capt with his plane named after his wife.

Our Host presents us with a small finely woven vintage handkerchief with Libertation embroidered on it. Also embroidered are a little airplane a little village and a four leaf clover with each leaf representing a flag. US, British, French and French Republic. We are told he found them at a flea market!

Everyone is "chatting" happily with smiles and gestures and a few words of English thrown in. One of the Councilmen's daughter is there. She is about 5 and a complete doll - down to her shoes being on the wrong feet. She points and tells us exactly who she wants in her pictures. She loves us and we love her!

The crowd quietly breaks up at it is nearing dinner time. We have new friends all ready. They tell us a demain - we will see you tomorrow.

We have dinner with the Mayor and two officials, our Host and our interpreter at the Relais de Chapeau Rouge. The food and wine is outstanding. We had the traditional five course meal, entree - salad with carchuterie of duck and a very thinly sliced ham, plat - a white fish in a nice sauce with noodles colored black with (squid ink ) 12 yr old could have gone without that deatil, Cheeses, and either a small flourless chocolate cake or a "floating island" a very large meringue floating in a custard sauce. All as beautiful as they were good.

We excuse ourselves after a very long happy day to our rooms at Relais de la Chapeau Rouge. We are told to be at the Hotel D' Ville at 9:00 for the morning events.

We already feel at home and are wondering what the next day will bring


May 21 - 65th anniversary of the crash.

We have a traditional French Breakfast of croissants and breads, cafe, chocolat chaud ( had little bits of chocolate in it) and the.

We walk over to the town hall to find numerous people milling around ready to get started. Slow Americans! Nora is with us again! We pile in to cars to drive the 2km to the forest. The forest is privately owned and the owner has graciously improved a pathway and allowed for jeep access for Nana. American pennant flags mark the way. We walk 200 yards or so in to the forest and there is the crater left by the plane 65 years ago. We are stunned. French and American Flags are posted in a tree. It is very solemn as we think back on that day. The Mayor places a beautiful spray of flowers in the crater and my sister in law sings an impromptu prayer. Nora translates and we all have tears runnng down our face.

Our hosts quietly stands back allowing the moment to be just right. He and I have an bond over ok English on his part and poor French on my part. We understand each other well enough.

We leave the forest ( woods) to us and head toward the cemetery. Nana knew that the village doctor had gathered the remains and buried them in the local cemetery.

We get to the cemetery to find the grave is just inside the gate on the right. An empty grave site has flowers and American flags decorating it. The town has left the plot empty for 63 years in his honor. We are completely stunned. Who would ever have imagined that? The Mayor gives Nana flowers to lay on the grave.

A man comes foward and Nora tells us he is a witness but he has another story to tell. On the one year anniversary of the soldier's death ( he was unknown to them at this time - they actually thought he might have been Canadian) he was in a band that played in a military parade that honored the unknown soldier. The military marched and the band played in honor of the anniversary of his death. They were free by then VE Day was earlier in the month but took the time to pay hommage. Nana is so proud and greatful.

We think it is time for us to say goodbye for the day ( it is Ascension Day we think they will want to enjoy the holiday at home but no - Lunch awaits in D'Arvill.

We have a delicious 5 course lunch at Relais de la Commanderie Starting with with big white asparagus in a puff pastry and ending in Tart Tatin. Nap time? No!

D'Arvill is the home to the best preserved Nights of the Templar Commanderie. Nana's knees have given out so she rests in the car while we are treated to a tour. The story here is fascinating. Go if you are ever in the area.


Then we are off to Dollon another village. Here we meet an interesting individual. He has a small museum dedicated to musical instruments that "play themselves". Player pianos, a no man orchestra complete with a sax. An organ grinder box, an accordian that moves on its own. He is truly a mad professor type very funny and fun.

Now it is time to say good bye for the night.
Bonsoir et Bonne Nuit

ira

Wonderful story, 4d.

AGM_Cape_Cod

Thanks for sharing your touching family history with us. And to think people say that the French don't like us!

Nikki

Wow!

Challiman

Bookmarking. This is a wonderful story.

4ddawgs82

Friday morning we meet back in the reception room of the town hall. We are seated panel style at tables facing each other.

New interpreters Mary and JC - husband and wife British who now live in the area.

Map showing crash site with dots representing position of each witness.

Witness one was 19 years old. Two days after the crash the Mayor sent him with a horse and cart to gather the remains. The mayor has written to the German command in the area requesting to do so and pemission is granted. He brings the remains back to town to the church where he is met by the town doctor and the man who will make the casket. People begin to place flowers at the cart.

Witness two was 23 years old he lived near the foot of the hill where the crash occured. He heard and saw but could not go to the scene. He was in hiding. He had been captured by the Germans and sent to work in a German factory. He escaped twice and went in to hiding with his young wife. He and wife got to Paris then walked the 150 km to Vibraye hiding in safe houses so she could be near home. He was told that the town would not give him up but if he ever heard a car he should go into the forest to hide.

We learned at that time the forest was a working forest. They made charcoal and glass in the forest so people were in and out the forest living and working. The town was not completely occupied but small camps of German troops were scattered in the area.

Witness three was also 23 - 24. He his brother and brother in law were riding their bikes toward the Abbaye d'Launay for lunch. They heard and saw the crash and explosion so rode as far as they could, put their bikes on their backs and walked the rest of the way. They were among the first on the scene. Fire was burning about 50 yards all around the wreckage and ammuntion was causing some small explosions as soon as they could they were at the plane along with German troops. "the Germans were happy" They gave a quick military salute to a fallen soldier then went on about their day. "not even a minute of silence" " but they did salute". Once they realized there was so survivor they had to leave so the Germans would not begin to question them. You see these three were part of an underground chain that helped get fallen pilots back to the coast and to England. Pilots were the most valuable asset. These guys would take the soldiers from point a to point b. At point b they would hang around the village and ask questions of different folks. When they felt comfortable with someone they would ask them to go for a bite to eat. If all went well he would offer to pay and pull out a bill that was cut in half if the other person produced the other half they knew it was safe to hand the soldier over. If the other half was not produced they would make excuses and pay anyway. The man still has his half bill!


They also worked to keep other escaped prisoners safe. At the end of the war they had 152 Allied troops hidden in the Forest of Vibraye right under the German's nose! The area people supplied his father a pig farmer / seller with pigs he would cook and take for food. The women would donate clothes from their husbands who were away in the war. "it was hard keeping those guys fed and they looked funny in some of the clothes" "sizes were a problem".

We have been able to ask quesions between each witness. We are all dumbfounded at these amazing stories. What brave young people. We are having a hard time wrapping our heads around these amazing accounts. These men who are well in their 80s are robust healthy people. Remembering the stories like it was yeaterday. They say they think about the events but don't talk about it much. This is the first time this group has talked about that time to each other.

More to follow

grandmere

What a moving story; it must have been quite an experience for the family to be part of this tribute in France. How good that three generations were able to attend.

thursdaysd

What a wonderful, moving, story. Thank you so much for sharing it.

irishface

The story gives me the shivers and makes tears come to my eyes. Thank you for sharing; it is a wonderful tale!

mcnyc

Thank you for sharing your immensely personal story with us. We should all remember to be thankful to those in uniform who fight for our freedoms.

kerouac

Fascinating, moving tale.

4ddawgs82

OK now to more witnesses.

I have noticed our host is looking though all his notes as the witnesses speak and asks a few questions and makes notes.

The next witness was nine when the crash happened. He was not allowed to go anywhere near the area. On the morning the body was brought to town he was helping his mother in the garden. They heard the horse and cart and people coming down the street. They went out to see what was happening. He had flowers in his hands they had just picked. As the funeral cart went by a man grabbed the flowers and laid them on the body. They followed the cart to the church with the others but no one stayed long. They did not want the Germans to think they were too interested or involved.

The next witness is the only woman. She was also nine. She lived with her grandparents and she and her grandmother were making lunch. They heard and saw the crash. Their home was occupied by German Officers. She remembered how much her grandfather hated those Germans and how afraid the crash made her feel. She said "they made us eat what they ate. We had to eat what the Germans ate." I can't imagine what that would have been like for a child. She and her grandmother regularly slipped away and put flowers on the grave.

The Next Witness was 14. He lived in Dollon a few Km away. He did not see the crash but word travelled fast. He had a sister who was much older that was very disturbed by the idea that it might be an American pilot. She had been 3-4 in WWI and an American soldier had lived next to them. Her father was away at war and the soldier played with her and brought her treats. She and her husband took him to see the site a few days later. They rode their bikes. When they got to the scene the propeller was still there. They took pictures of themselves with the propeller. Those photos were some of the first photos Capt's family saw. He brought us all copies of the photos and the camera for us to see. The camera looked like a pre - brownie camera. Leather box with a strap. He showed the boys how it worked. To our amazement he gave the camera to Nana. We said we wouldn't possibly have it but he insisted. He said there was a machine gun still buried in the ground. It was too embedded for them to remove it. He laughed a little saying how dangerous it was that they even tried to get it. He said we would have looked funny trying to carry that big gun back on our bikes. He showed us a postcard that the GI from WWI sent his sister after he returned to the states. It was an American Flag. Our youngest realized on 48 stars.

The last witness was not a witness at all really. He was born the day of the crash. About one hour before. His grandmother owned or worked in the brasserie or cafe. She would "bring him out" and tell people that he was born the day the soldier fell from the sky. " Heaven sent one but took another." Because of that he has always had an interest in Capt and the crash site. When he was 12 or so he was able to go to the site alone and he bagan to collect bits and pieces of the plane and the ammunition scattered in the forest.
Around 1960 his uncle a junk collector came across the largest piece and got it for him. He had a collection of the parts pieces he has found. a windshied wiper, a piece of a joystick or "steering wheel"and miscellaneous ammunition. He gave a small piece to everyone. We wondered what to put on the customs form ! ha!

We were all so moved at the calm quiet nature of these fine individuals the respect and saddness still showed but it was peaceful. We thanked them for their own courage and bravery for living through such difficult times and helping other people, thinking of others when their own lives were in such tuemoil.


You may remember that Capt is still listed as MIA and the people of Vibraye still do not know who he is.


The family has had no definitive word. There are statements from the two pilots who were flying with them stating they ran in to heavy overcast skies at 10,000 ft when "each of us went on instruments because the overcast was too thick to fly formation on the leader. As the flight flewinto the overcast Capt executed a sharp left bank, that was the last time I had seen him"

From this the Army searched an area much further north and found no wreckage or reports.

So how do we find out?

Well you know how truth is stranger than fiction??

Hang on - you can't make this stuff up.

I know this is long and a I appreciate your indulgence.

I wish I could write more elequently

tower

<i>I wish I could write more elequently</i>

no..no..we are all mesmerized to the "nth" degree. This is a story that begs to be told, and you're telling it beautifully. Keep going, please! Don't make us wait too long for the next installment....I've been reading each to my wife.


stu T.

tod

That was a wondeful true story written with so much detail I was transported there immediately. Thank you so much.
When I read it I had just been watching the memorial service in Normandy with the Prince Charles, Prime Minister Gordon Brown, President Sarkozy, The Canadian Prime Minister and of course President Obama.
Their speeches were all magnificent. Especially Barrack Obama who spoke from the heart and not a single glance at pre-written notes - what a gift that man has.

As those boys were wading ashore, giving up their lives for mine, just about to begin in a few months time on a hot Kenyan day in November 1944. I feel deep gratitude to them and people like your family.

Thanks so much for sharing those wonderful moments.