Off the beaten track in Andalucia - Trip Report
Apr 15th, 2024, 01:12 PM
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Off the beaten track in Andalucia - Trip Report
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK IN ANDALUCIA EARLY SPRING 2024 - TRIP REPORT
We spent ten nights in Andalucia at the end of February-beginning of March 2024. We flew into Malaga at 4.30pm on a Saturday and picked up a rental car There was a little traffic around the airport but once we passed Malaga and were on the autovia towards Osuna, the roads were quiet. We spent three nights in Osuna. Saturday was just arriving, shopping, eating. On Sunday we visited Ecija, a pleasant place famous for its bell towers and with many fine buildings.
Ecija
Osuna
Day 3 was dedicated to Osuna itself. I preferred Osuna to Ecija even though I'd expected the opposite. Of Osuna I liked the town itself, the clean and bright streets, the historical centre with its low white-washed houses with window bars and wood doors, a very pretty place. The weather both days was cloudy with a little rain and quite cool.
Day 4, the weather had cleared. It was cold and sunny. First, we visited Estepa, and loved it for the contact with friendly people, the quiet, the area of monuments at the top of the hill and the kind Senora Carmen who explained to us the church of the same name. Then we moved on to Antequera. We had tapas for lunch at Cerveceria Casa Diego. We'd already visited Antequera on previous trips and eaten a couple of times at Casa Meson Diego. The afternoon was dedicated to El Torcal, a natural park in the mountains with fabulous rock formations, an old friend from previous trips. It was fantastic to return. I hadn't booked our accommodation for that night until the last minute, in doubt between returning to Torcal or returning to Cordoba, according to the weather, so we ended up in Archidona, where the main attraction seemed to be the octagonal square. We could easily have missed out Archidona.
Estepa
El torcal de Antequera
Day 5 we drove up to Lucena, mainly because I'd originally wanted to use it as a base to tour the area. I think it was the right decision not to. In the afternoon we went to Cabra, which we liked, a medium-sized town but attractive. That evening we arrived at our accommodation near Priego de Cordoba where we stayed three nights. Day 6 was dedicated to Priego de Cordoba, which lived up to expectations and Day 7 to Alcalà la Real which didn't. Well, not as a town, but the Fortaleza made the trip worth it.
Priego de Cordoba
Alcala la Real
In general the Subbetica region was disappointing from a nature point of view. Yes, the towns are beautiful but the landscape consists in olive groves and olive groves and olive groves. I'm not quite sure why it's considered a 'natural' park area. The weather those days was cold, morning and evening but pleasant enough to eat outside in the sun during the day.
On Day 8 we headed for the sea, stopping at Iznacar on the way, a beautiful pueblo blanco. It was a pity the weather was cloudy again. We spent most of the day at Alhama de Granada which is hardly mentioned by websites and blogs but we liked it a lot, the ochre sandstone of the historical buildings and the gorge. We could easily have spent longer there and there looked to be good hikes.
Alhama de Granada
From there we drove down towards the coast, to Algarrobo Costa, a bit of a shock to be surrounded by buildings and people. Day 9 was spent relaxing, we just walked along the coast, it was sunnier but there was a strong wind. Day 10 we drove east to visit some places missing from a previous trip to Almunecar, in particular the Acantilados Maro-Cerro Gordo and to have lunch in a Ciringuito in Salobrena we remembered from that previous trip. Day 11 was our last day. We left the apartment early, drove to Malaga and parked and spent the day there before dropping off the rental car at 15.30 to go to the airport. We had already visited Malaga for a week in March 2018 and ten days in November 2019.
The itinerary was chosen with the following factors in mind:
- we'd already seen some beautiful places in Andalucia - a week in Seville, 8 days in Granada, two trips to Malaga and an extended road trip from Italy which allowed us to visit places like Arcos de la Frontera, Ronda, Tarifa, Caidz, Sanlucar de la Barrameda, Ubeza, Jaen, another ten days between Almunecar and Nerja.
- we love Andalucia
- we were tempted to return to Seville or Malaga but we wanted to visit less touristy places
- we were flying in and out of Malaga because it was convenient and for the rental car.
Conclusions
It was a relaxing trip. All the places we visited were quiet, very few tourists, friendly and welcoming people, those working in tourism and others too. It was easy to find somewhere to eat tapas or a racion which was good but cheap. Driving around was easy, empty roads, considerate drivers. Parking was usually no problem (except when I had a meltdown on a bank in Archidona!) Weather was coldish night and morning but pleasant enough to be out all day (suitably dressed). We saw some nice places although nothing absolutely unforgettable in the way that Setenil de las Bodegas or Ronda or Cordoba are stunning.
We moved around a lot more than we usually do. We prefer to base in one place and day trip, but it worked out ok.
If you too love Andalucia and are happy to rent a car, have seen the 'big' destinations and want to see places that aren't overrun with tourists this itinerary could be of interest to you. More links for all the details are available here: https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspo...cia-early.html
We spent ten nights in Andalucia at the end of February-beginning of March 2024. We flew into Malaga at 4.30pm on a Saturday and picked up a rental car There was a little traffic around the airport but once we passed Malaga and were on the autovia towards Osuna, the roads were quiet. We spent three nights in Osuna. Saturday was just arriving, shopping, eating. On Sunday we visited Ecija, a pleasant place famous for its bell towers and with many fine buildings.
Ecija
Osuna
Day 3 was dedicated to Osuna itself. I preferred Osuna to Ecija even though I'd expected the opposite. Of Osuna I liked the town itself, the clean and bright streets, the historical centre with its low white-washed houses with window bars and wood doors, a very pretty place. The weather both days was cloudy with a little rain and quite cool.
Day 4, the weather had cleared. It was cold and sunny. First, we visited Estepa, and loved it for the contact with friendly people, the quiet, the area of monuments at the top of the hill and the kind Senora Carmen who explained to us the church of the same name. Then we moved on to Antequera. We had tapas for lunch at Cerveceria Casa Diego. We'd already visited Antequera on previous trips and eaten a couple of times at Casa Meson Diego. The afternoon was dedicated to El Torcal, a natural park in the mountains with fabulous rock formations, an old friend from previous trips. It was fantastic to return. I hadn't booked our accommodation for that night until the last minute, in doubt between returning to Torcal or returning to Cordoba, according to the weather, so we ended up in Archidona, where the main attraction seemed to be the octagonal square. We could easily have missed out Archidona.
Estepa
El torcal de Antequera
Day 5 we drove up to Lucena, mainly because I'd originally wanted to use it as a base to tour the area. I think it was the right decision not to. In the afternoon we went to Cabra, which we liked, a medium-sized town but attractive. That evening we arrived at our accommodation near Priego de Cordoba where we stayed three nights. Day 6 was dedicated to Priego de Cordoba, which lived up to expectations and Day 7 to Alcalà la Real which didn't. Well, not as a town, but the Fortaleza made the trip worth it.
Priego de Cordoba
Alcala la Real
In general the Subbetica region was disappointing from a nature point of view. Yes, the towns are beautiful but the landscape consists in olive groves and olive groves and olive groves. I'm not quite sure why it's considered a 'natural' park area. The weather those days was cold, morning and evening but pleasant enough to eat outside in the sun during the day.
On Day 8 we headed for the sea, stopping at Iznacar on the way, a beautiful pueblo blanco. It was a pity the weather was cloudy again. We spent most of the day at Alhama de Granada which is hardly mentioned by websites and blogs but we liked it a lot, the ochre sandstone of the historical buildings and the gorge. We could easily have spent longer there and there looked to be good hikes.
Alhama de Granada
From there we drove down towards the coast, to Algarrobo Costa, a bit of a shock to be surrounded by buildings and people. Day 9 was spent relaxing, we just walked along the coast, it was sunnier but there was a strong wind. Day 10 we drove east to visit some places missing from a previous trip to Almunecar, in particular the Acantilados Maro-Cerro Gordo and to have lunch in a Ciringuito in Salobrena we remembered from that previous trip. Day 11 was our last day. We left the apartment early, drove to Malaga and parked and spent the day there before dropping off the rental car at 15.30 to go to the airport. We had already visited Malaga for a week in March 2018 and ten days in November 2019.
The itinerary was chosen with the following factors in mind:
- we'd already seen some beautiful places in Andalucia - a week in Seville, 8 days in Granada, two trips to Malaga and an extended road trip from Italy which allowed us to visit places like Arcos de la Frontera, Ronda, Tarifa, Caidz, Sanlucar de la Barrameda, Ubeza, Jaen, another ten days between Almunecar and Nerja.
- we love Andalucia
- we were tempted to return to Seville or Malaga but we wanted to visit less touristy places
- we were flying in and out of Malaga because it was convenient and for the rental car.
Conclusions
It was a relaxing trip. All the places we visited were quiet, very few tourists, friendly and welcoming people, those working in tourism and others too. It was easy to find somewhere to eat tapas or a racion which was good but cheap. Driving around was easy, empty roads, considerate drivers. Parking was usually no problem (except when I had a meltdown on a bank in Archidona!) Weather was coldish night and morning but pleasant enough to be out all day (suitably dressed). We saw some nice places although nothing absolutely unforgettable in the way that Setenil de las Bodegas or Ronda or Cordoba are stunning.
We moved around a lot more than we usually do. We prefer to base in one place and day trip, but it worked out ok.
If you too love Andalucia and are happy to rent a car, have seen the 'big' destinations and want to see places that aren't overrun with tourists this itinerary could be of interest to you. More links for all the details are available here: https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspo...cia-early.html
Apr 15th, 2024, 04:44 PM
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Very interesting report, and I love your photos! I don't know anything about these places. So nice to see a report for off the beaten path itinerary. We have visited the typical Andalusian sites, and we loved every place we visited, including Malaga which often doesn't get a lot of love. Happy to hear you have spent time in Malaga. We enjoyed it so much more than we thought we would.
Apr 15th, 2024, 07:00 PM
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We drove from Granada to Cordoba, staying on the way in Priego de Cordoba. It was in Summer so no hiking for us, too hot. But there are hikes in the area. Our favorite village in the daytime was Carcabuey, a pretty, quiet white village draped in winding roads around a hilltop with a hermitage in ruins at the peak of the village. Also did a wonderful olive oil tasting nearby.
At night, there was a Roman festival going on in the nearby village of Almedenilla where there are some Roman ruins and a village museum featuring roman artifacts. Folks were dressed in costumes and you purchased Roman 'money' to use at the various trading posts. More great olive oil and a few other souvenirs were bought. Very lively, pretty evening scene, plus a nighttime visit to the museum.
I know that people put down traveling in the Summer, but the fact is that the summer sun is dazzling on the white villages, the landscape is beautiful, the days are long,and the nights festive with activity. I get that it can look dreary in cool, cloudy weather.
My one regret is that I did not see a play that was being performed in Priego. I remember it was"Las Brujas," The Witches. Even though I would not have understood the language, that seems fairly unimportant looking back on it. I know the rest of my family would not have been into it, so I passed.
At night, there was a Roman festival going on in the nearby village of Almedenilla where there are some Roman ruins and a village museum featuring roman artifacts. Folks were dressed in costumes and you purchased Roman 'money' to use at the various trading posts. More great olive oil and a few other souvenirs were bought. Very lively, pretty evening scene, plus a nighttime visit to the museum.
I know that people put down traveling in the Summer, but the fact is that the summer sun is dazzling on the white villages, the landscape is beautiful, the days are long,and the nights festive with activity. I get that it can look dreary in cool, cloudy weather.
My one regret is that I did not see a play that was being performed in Priego. I remember it was"Las Brujas," The Witches. Even though I would not have understood the language, that seems fairly unimportant looking back on it. I know the rest of my family would not have been into it, so I passed.
Apr 16th, 2024, 08:16 AM
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Tanks for posting this report. We spent a year living in that neck of the woods and loved it. El Torcal was a frequent visit for us as it was only 30 mins or so from where we lived. We often used to shop in Archidona as it had the closest big supermarket but I agree, it is eminently missable! Iznajar on the other hand was wonderful.
You almost have me tempted to squeeze in a quick break in Malaga
You almost have me tempted to squeeze in a quick break in Malaga
Apr 16th, 2024, 12:04 PM
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Glorious photos, Tina! It's wonderful to read reports that take us off the usual popular routes in Andalucia, or anywhere else, for that matter.
And imagine that we were almost neighbors in Vieste last September! (I adored that hotel,, Il Relais Castillino--loved everything about Vieste!)
You've been to Sentenil de las Bodegas. I've seen photos of that town and now wonder about it....I imagine it must be small, and the overhanging rocks are only in a small area..is it totally swarmed with tourists, with shops and restaurants all oriented towards tourists, or is there any true local feeling in the town? Its pretty far away from my preferred areas of Andalucia, but am thinking about next yer and wondering if its smart to think about including Senenil.....thanks so much!!!
Crellston, so you lived in Andalucia, TOO???? What a life you have had!
And imagine that we were almost neighbors in Vieste last September! (I adored that hotel,, Il Relais Castillino--loved everything about Vieste!)
You've been to Sentenil de las Bodegas. I've seen photos of that town and now wonder about it....I imagine it must be small, and the overhanging rocks are only in a small area..is it totally swarmed with tourists, with shops and restaurants all oriented towards tourists, or is there any true local feeling in the town? Its pretty far away from my preferred areas of Andalucia, but am thinking about next yer and wondering if its smart to think about including Senenil.....thanks so much!!!
Crellston, so you lived in Andalucia, TOO???? What a life you have had!
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Apr 16th, 2024 at 12:08 PM.
Apr 17th, 2024, 01:27 AM
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just__tina,
I'm really, really enjoying your off-the-beaten path report with lovely photos. Yours is exactly the trip that we need to revisit next, especially Priego de Córdoba and Olvera.
What a nice trip!
ekscrunchy,
In my experience outside of high season, Setenil de las Bodegas doesn't get overwhelmed with tourists like Ronda or to a lesser extent, Arcos. Ronda we love, but we base there for 4 or 5 nights and during the day we're out and about exploring/touring the other white towns, so we aren't bothered by the bus tour groups coming up to Ronda from the Costa del Sol. But we haven't visited Setenil or Ubrique or Olvera or Grazalema or Zahara de la Sierra during high season.
I'm really, really enjoying your off-the-beaten path report with lovely photos. Yours is exactly the trip that we need to revisit next, especially Priego de Córdoba and Olvera.
What a nice trip!
ekscrunchy,
In my experience outside of high season, Setenil de las Bodegas doesn't get overwhelmed with tourists like Ronda or to a lesser extent, Arcos. Ronda we love, but we base there for 4 or 5 nights and during the day we're out and about exploring/touring the other white towns, so we aren't bothered by the bus tour groups coming up to Ronda from the Costa del Sol. But we haven't visited Setenil or Ubrique or Olvera or Grazalema or Zahara de la Sierra during high season.
Apr 17th, 2024, 04:48 AM
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just_tina,
I meant Osuna, the beautiful Baroque town.
Ecija is often called the "sartenilla de España", the frying town of Spain due to its intense summer heat.
You do a really nice job on your blog. I enjoy reading it and following your adventures!
I meant Osuna, the beautiful Baroque town.
Ecija is often called the "sartenilla de España", the frying town of Spain due to its intense summer heat.
You do a really nice job on your blog. I enjoy reading it and following your adventures!
Apr 17th, 2024, 11:45 AM
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Very interesting report, and I love your photos! I don't know anything about these places. So nice to see a report for off the beaten path itinerary. We have visited the typical Andalusian sites, and we loved every place we visited, including Malaga which often doesn't get a lot of love. Happy to hear you have spent time in Malaga. We enjoyed it so much more than we thought we would.
Apr 17th, 2024, 11:48 AM
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Hi Shelemm, We didn't go to Carcabuey .... so many interesting places, I wish we could have stayed longer. I think in the full summer I'd find the heat a problem, but yes I agree about the long evenings and the landscapes
Hi Crellston, interesting that you lived in the area for so long, lucky you. Yes, El Torcal fascinates us and we managed to revisit the 'Sombrero' and see the ammonites, a place we'd said 'let's hope one day we can go back there' when Covid was raging in our area of northern Italy....
Thanks eksrunchy, glad you like the photos - I should actually clarify that I write the blog and on the forums but the photos are all thanks to my husband Andrea and his patience. I loved Setenil. We had spent the whole day in Ronda and were driving back to our accommodation in Olvera so I think it must have been about 5pm and there were very few people around (mid-October). This is what I wrote about it, we still remember the Vermouth too....and in the rock bar people were very friendly. I would like to return to explore more of it.
https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspo...s-bodegas.html
Thanks Maribel, glad you like the blog....your mention of Priego de Cordoba was the inspiration for the whole trip .... !
Hi Crellston, interesting that you lived in the area for so long, lucky you. Yes, El Torcal fascinates us and we managed to revisit the 'Sombrero' and see the ammonites, a place we'd said 'let's hope one day we can go back there' when Covid was raging in our area of northern Italy....
Thanks eksrunchy, glad you like the photos - I should actually clarify that I write the blog and on the forums but the photos are all thanks to my husband Andrea and his patience. I loved Setenil. We had spent the whole day in Ronda and were driving back to our accommodation in Olvera so I think it must have been about 5pm and there were very few people around (mid-October). This is what I wrote about it, we still remember the Vermouth too....and in the rock bar people were very friendly. I would like to return to explore more of it.
https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspo...s-bodegas.html
Thanks Maribel, glad you like the blog....your mention of Priego de Cordoba was the inspiration for the whole trip .... !
Last edited by just_tina; Apr 17th, 2024 at 12:02 PM.
Apr 17th, 2024, 01:16 PM
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Hi Shelemm, We didn't go to Carcabuey .... so many interesting places, I wish we could have stayed longer. I think in the full summer I'd find the heat a problem, but yes I agree about the long evenings and the landscapes
Hi Crellston, interesting that you lived in the area for so long, lucky you. Yes, El Torcal fascinates us and we managed to revisit the 'Sombrero' and see the ammonites, a place we'd said 'let's hope one day we can go back there' when Covid was raging in our area of northern Italy....
Thanks eksrunchy, glad you like the photos - I should actually clarify that I write the blog and on the forums but the photos are all thanks to my husband Andrea and his patience. I loved Setenil. We had spent the whole day in Ronda and were driving back to our accommodation in Olvera so I think it must have been about 5pm and there were very few people around (mid-October). This is what I wrote about it, we still remember the Vermouth too....and in the rock bar people were very friendly. I would like to return to explore more of it.
https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspo...s-bodegas.html
Thanks Maribel, glad you like the blog....your mention of Priego de Cordoba was the inspiration for the whole trip .... !
Hi Crellston, interesting that you lived in the area for so long, lucky you. Yes, El Torcal fascinates us and we managed to revisit the 'Sombrero' and see the ammonites, a place we'd said 'let's hope one day we can go back there' when Covid was raging in our area of northern Italy....
Thanks eksrunchy, glad you like the photos - I should actually clarify that I write the blog and on the forums but the photos are all thanks to my husband Andrea and his patience. I loved Setenil. We had spent the whole day in Ronda and were driving back to our accommodation in Olvera so I think it must have been about 5pm and there were very few people around (mid-October). This is what I wrote about it, we still remember the Vermouth too....and in the rock bar people were very friendly. I would like to return to explore more of it.
https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspo...s-bodegas.html
Thanks Maribel, glad you like the blog....your mention of Priego de Cordoba was the inspiration for the whole trip .... !
Tina I just spent two hours reading your blog--Andalucia and also Vieste and the Salento. You know you have another tremendous fan of Vieste here!
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