This slow trip covers part of the southern region of Castile and León and enters the region of Aragón. This is an area of ​​villages with traditional architecture, Romanesque churches, medieval castle ruins, some wineries and beautiful natural landscapes. It is currently sparsely populated, and winters are often windy and cold. The route is roughly 420 kilometers long.

Leaving Madrid heading north on the A-1 motorway. About 70 kilometers further on, we reach Buitrago —which means vulture settlement— The town raises over the surface of the Lozoya river, creating a peninsula surrounded by a natural moat. The castle is located at one end of the walled enclosure. It was built between the 14th and 15th centuries using brick and masonry work. It is almost square in shape and is fortified by seven towers. The Picasso museum's origins date back to the friendship forged in France between Picasso and Eugenio Arias, the painter's barber. Over the course of 26 years, Arias amassed a collection of 71 works, most dating between 1948 and 1972, which includes drawings, lithographs, ceramics, posters, books, and other items. Several photographs and a bust of Picasso complete the museum's exhibitions.

Then, we enter the eastern part of the province of Segovia, the least traveled, although Riaza has several touristy restaurants serving roast lamb and suckling pig. It is virtually impossible not to go through the Plaza Mayor of Riaza, given that a lot of streets connect there. The square grabs your attention because it is in the form of an ellipse, because of its stone steps joined by cast iron rails, its porticos, continuous balconies, the irregular height of its buildings. While visiting, it is inevitable to notice the architecture of the traditional housing: they are usually to stories, with wooden cornices, galleries, and overhanging balconies.

The best way to appreciate the allure of Ayllón is to stroll through its narrow cobbled streets and take in its stately houses and dwellings featuring traditional architecture. The archway bearing coats of arms from the 16th century leads to the old quarter. You will soon see the Palacio de los Contreras palace, boasting beautiful artesonado (wooden coffered) ceilings inside and an Elizabethan façade also emblazoned with coats of arms. Continuing along the street you will soon reach the Plaza Mayor square, with its irregular structure and impressive stone arcades. The medieval festival of Ayllón is typically held on the last weekend of July, when the inhabitants dress up in period costume and hold a medieval street market.

We now enter the province of Soria to roughly follow the line of the Duero River, which for centuries during the Middle Ages was the border between the Christian kingdoms to the north and the Muslims to the south. This highly contested land and the scene of frequent battles, is dotted with castles. The castle of San Esteban is one of the key castles, which changed hands continuously during the 10th and 11th centuries. It controlled the passage across the Duero River and guarded the bridge. In the 11th century, it finally passed into Christian hands.
On the banks of the Duero River and with a medieval aroma stands the historic town of San Esteban de Gormaz, recognized as the cradle of Soria Romanesque. Get to know its picturesque historic center at the foot of the castle watchtower, filled with beautiful examples of traditional architecture carved over the centuries and its typical wineries. But above all, its Romanesque churches stand out, Nuestra Señora del Rivero, built in the 12th century, and that of San Miguel, Romanesque jewel par excellence of San Esteban and the first porticoed Romanesque temple in Castile. Also outstanding is the medieval bridge with 16 arches which spans the Duero.

El Burgo de Osma's origins date back to a primitive Arevaque settlement which, centuries later, would be subjected to Roman jurisdiction. However, it was during the time of the Visigoths that the town began to experience a period of splendour, as it became the episcopal see in the 6th century AD until the arrival of the Moors. Following the Muslim domination, the city regained its former capital status in the 12th century, a fact that favoured the flourishing of a prosperous burgh of merchants and craftsmen. This privileged situation would last for centuries, to the point that in the Renaissance period it even included a university.
The old town layout is organised around the cathedral, one of the most important religious buildings in the province built in 1232. Next to the cathedral is the Episcopal Palace, a building with an intriguing late Gothic façade. The famous Roman bridge still stands over the course of the river Ucero and, on a nearby hill, the ancient Castle of Osma overlooks the surroundings of El Burgo. 17 kilometers to the south is the massive fortress of Gormaz and to the north the Río Lobos Canyon.

Some villages are admirable medieval monuments themselves. Calatañazor is the best example and has witnessed incredible events. In 1002 in the Battle of Calatañazor the armies of Leon, Castile and Navarre inflicted a bloody defeat to that of the Moorish leader Almanzor. There, Almanzor could have suffered the wound that a month later, in Medinaceli, caused his death. It popularized the saying “In Calatañazor, Almanzor lost the drum”. Given the errors made by the chronicles of the time, some historians believe that the figures of fighters and dead have been exaggerated by the myth that has been created.
The streets are still filled with a medieval essence and are home to a Romanesque hermitage and an old castle that watches over the area. Calatañazor’s general view is incredibly picture-worthy. It is the location where Orson Welles filmed part of his movie "Chimes at Midnight", also known as "Falstaff". 32 kilometers NW of Calatañazor is located the Laguna Negra (Black Lagoon).

In a natural spot presided over the River Duero is Soria. Its history is linked to the neighbouring Celtiberian settlement of Numancia whose inhabitants led a heroic defence of the city against the seige of the Romans. Later, due to its strategic situation, the area was the subject of a battle between Christians and Muslims.
Soria still retains an important Romanesque legacy in its network of streets. In the historic centre of the town is one of the most important churches in the city, the church of Santo Domingo, a beautiful 12th century construction whose main front is considered one of the best of the entire Romanesque period. To the east of the city, near the River Duero, is the procathedral of San Pedro. Built at the end of the 12th century and rebuilt during the 16th c., it has a Renaissance main front and three gothic naves. Inside you can admire beautiful reredos, such as the Flemish triptych of the Crucifixion. The cloister, which has been declared a National Monument, is characterised by the three sections of series of half arches supported on columns on which various allegorical scenes are portrayed.

Throughout the Middle Ages, Ágreda was a fortified city, originally comprised of four independent walled enclosures, connected by gates and defended by towers. An example of these defenses is the Tirador Tower, flanked by two gates: the Almazán Gate, which provided access to the San Miguel enclosure, and the Santiago Gate, which led to the Nuestra Señora de La Peña enclosure.
To the SE of Ágreda we find the Moncayo Natural Park which is a natural frontier between Castile and Aragón. Moncayo is the highest point in the Iberian Mountain Range and offers a great diversity of landscapes.

Tarazona —we are now in Aragón— is an episcopal and Mudejar city. Its cathedral is one of the most unique of the nine in Aragón, as its original Gothic structure is complemented by Mudejar towers and a domed base, as well as a Renaissance façade. Tarazona also has an 18th-century polygonal bullring made up of houses that are still inhabited today. The Jewish Quarter experienced its heyday from the 13th to the 15th century, when they represented 30% of the population. It is part of the Network of Jewish Quarters of Spain, a testament to the cultural coexistence that took place in this city. Near Tarazona is the Moncayo Natural Park and the Monastery of Veruela.

Borja is the base of the wine-producing area of the Campo de Borja, at the foot of the Moncayo mountain range. It is a land of two products par excellence: Wine and olive oil. Its geographical location influences its climate and creates perfect conditions for four types of grapes: cabernet, merlot, syrah and garnacha. They grow in plains full of vineyards, olive and almond trees, where you can find centuries-old Garnacha vineyards that invite you to sample wines produced with care in historic wine cellars or in small family wineries. The guru from the United States, Robet Parker, praised Borja's wines, particularly those from Bodegas Borsao, due to its price-quality ratio.

Alagón is dominated by the silhouette of its parish church, which occupies the site of the former mosque. Its octagonal tower, formerly a minaret, features beautiful decoration based on geometric figures, following the Mudejar tradition. Inside the former Jesuit school, the fresco mural decorating the vault of the stairwell, painted around 1765, is attributed to a young Goya.

We arrived at our destination, Zaragoza, located halfway between Madrid and Barcelona,. A city that is incomprehensibly underrated despite its undeniable attractions. With more than 2,000 years of history, Zaragoza has two majestic cathedrals, a fortified Islamic palace in the city centre, monumental remains of the Roman Caesar Augusta, Renaissance-style palace houses and unique works by the Aragonese painter Goya. In addition, a great tapas scene in the central area of El Tubo.

From Zaragoza, you can continue to Barcelona or return to Madrid on the highway in a short time. This is the trip map:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer...zE7uRX5A1tidrU

GReat to read about off-the-beaten track places. Thanks for sharing. What time of year did you visit and how long did the trip take you?

I think late August and September is a good time to do it, also in late spring. As for how long, it depends on how slowly you like to travel. I did my homework, seeking a lot of information about restaurants and accommodations so I could be flexible as things came up, and ended up spending one night in Ayllón, three nights in Burgo de Osma and the surrounding area, two nights in Soria, two nights in Tarazona and the surrounding area, and finally two nights in Zaragoza, a city I'd already been to but one I really like.

Thank you so much for this great report. I also love Zaragoza - if you ever have the chance go on October 12, for Fiestas del Pilar. The Moncayo area is so beautiful - I need to return.

There are many trip reports on Andalusia, but few on other regions of Spain. The route I've proposed is a showcase of Spain's diverse landscape and culture, and one of the least explored areas by foreigners as doesn't feature white villages, flamenco, or paella, but in Zaragoza you can see Roman museums dedicated to the Forum, River Port, Public Baths and Theatre as well as the Aljafería, a fortified Islamic palace, and a dome painted by Goya in the Basilica del Pilar.
https://www.zaragoza.es/sede/portal/...o-de-aljaferia

Thanks so much for detailing your route. It inspired me to look up more about these villages/towns. Although they share some indicative characteristics of the region, they each have their own distinct landmarks and sensibility that lend an eye-popping variety to the journey. Well done.

Revulgo--I'm half loving and half hating your post. You told! Zaragoza was my secret trip goal for 2026, a place not spoiled by cruise ship itineraries and other sorts of overtourism.

I had planned to land in Barcelona and then take the train to Bilbao to tour Basque Country. Once I explored the route on the internet, I discovered the wonders of Zaragoza and I Instantly fell in love. Talk about every possible era of history in one town! It was amazing. I showed everything to my husband, who had toured more of Spain than I ever had, and he agreed that it was a must. Now our itinerary included three nights there from which we'd move onto Basque Country.

Sadly, family issues have made spreading our trip out less possible. We will do a "direct hit" on Basque Country from the French side now.

But Zaragoza is still tucked away as a desired future destination.
AZ

Zaragoza suffered two sieges during the Peninsular War. The second siege of Zaragoza (19 December 1808 to 20 February 1809) was a bloody chapter, resulting in 10,000 dead French soldiers and 54,000 dead Spanish, most of them were victims of an epidemic. The city still preserves the bombed Puerta del Carmen.

I wish the: "Madrid to Barcelona to Seville to Toledo is a must see" crowd would ignore this thread, so I can have Zaragoze all to myself..

Thank you for posting.
I really liked Zaragoza..Unfortunately for some of us ,who cannot drive, it is difficult to visit smaller towns and villages.