NY, Rome, Sardinia, Sicily, Calabria

Old Aug 21st, 2007, 07:06 AM
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NY, Rome, Sardinia, Sicily, Calabria

Hello all...my husband and I are thinking of taking a trip to Sardinia and Sicily next year. We sould like to spend a few days in Rome on the way and maybe see Calabria on the way back or do a day trip to Calabria while in Sicily. Is this doable in a little over two weeks? Any advice on travel between would be most welcome. I am told that Sardinia is about one hour flight from Rome...anyone fly from Sardinia to Sicily??? Any hotel recomendations or particilar areas of Sardinia that you would recommend. We like local flavor and not interested in anything too terribly chic if you know what I mean. Thanks very much.
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Old Aug 21st, 2007, 07:17 AM
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Rome and three regions of Italy are a bit much for a little over two weeks, I think.

There are flights from Cagliari and Olbia to Catania and Palermo with alpieagles and Meridiana. Check www.whichbudget.com.

Reggio di Calabria is not far by ferry from Messina.

Driving back to Rome through Calabria from Sicily would be time-consuming.
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Old Aug 21st, 2007, 08:05 AM
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It depends on what you want to see and do, but I agree with Zerlina: Trying to visit all these places in just over 2 weeks sounds quite ambitious to me.
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Old Aug 21st, 2007, 09:18 AM
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Hi mikster,
I had a similar idea in my last trip, and always have these enormous goals to cover enormous amounts of territory when I get to Italy, because I am always hungry for it and can't easily make up my mind.

Last time, I planned to visit Rome, the Aeolian Islands, Sicily and then make a "side" trip to the mainland (Calabria or Puglia). My trip was for 2 weeks, and I had to cut my list almost in half (I had a wonderful time anyway)

I also seek "local flavor", and have found that it easier to have that experience by slowing down a little and absorbing the sights and sounds in each place more completely.

Based on my experiences and the time frame you mention, I offer you this general advice:
I think you would be wise to either:

Concentrate on Rome, Sicily and Calabria (which will prove to be more than a day trip) and save Sardegna for another time. Also, see how you feel about exploring Calabria once you are in Sicily.
or
Concentrate on exploring Rome and then travel to Sardegna for the remainder.

Also, there is a fodor's poster named GAC who gives excellent detailed advice on Sicily and Sardinia. If you search for that screen name you'll likely come up with a few good recommendations.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2007, 11:51 AM
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Thank you. I hear what you are saying and in my heart of hearts I know you are probably right. I was originally planning Rome, Sicily and Calabria...but then someone was raving to me about Sardinia. But I know that you are all probably right. Thank you for your input. By the way, I have been to Rome quite a few times so was not planning to spend more than two or three days there...would that make any difference or still too much?
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Old Aug 22nd, 2007, 12:18 PM
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My impression from your original message was that you were only considering 2 or 3 days in Rome, so no: My concern that your plan is too ambitious stands!
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Old Aug 22nd, 2007, 12:25 PM
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It rather depends what you want to see and do in Sicily, Calabria and Sardinia.

In my opinion, if you want to explore Sicily, the *absolute minimum* is seven days - and that will be "once over lightly" and leave you frazzled.

If you only want to enjoy sea and sand, that can be done for three days each in the three regions. But I would think sea and sand would be pretty much the same in all three, so why bother moving?
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Old Aug 22nd, 2007, 03:36 PM
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Mikster, In Sept/Oct 2003, My husband and I flew into Rome. We went from Rome to Olbia, Sardinia. We stayed there 2 weeks and saw just some of the north of Sardinia. Then we flew from Olbia to Catania, Sicily. We stayed in Sicily for about 13 days then we flew from Palermo to Rome the night before coming home.

When I saw that you wanted to do our trip and MORE, in HALF the time, I said to myself, "Wow! I need to warn this guy." It is really too, too much.

We actually lost a day on the way over because our flight had been cancelled (and no one told us!) so we had to come back to the airport the next day.

Initially, I had us scheduled to arrive in Rome, stay the night, and leave Rome the next day for Sardinia. But, due to the cancelled flight, by the time we got to Rome, we never left the airport to catch our flight to Olbia. The flight was postponed twice and we FINALLY made our way to La Maddelena. We were travelling at least 24 hours with no sleep. Not the best way to start a vacation....but we had 4 weeks to acclimate ourselves....you have 2.

I really think you'd get more enjoyment out of Sardinia for 2 weeks or Sicily. Personally, I'd return to Sardinia in a heartbeat! I'm one of the very few who didn't enjoy Sicily as much as the other Fodorites.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2007, 10:22 AM
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Okay...you have all convinced me. I will do one or the other...now the question is which one. So now I will ask you this, if you don't mind. Which would you say would have better weather (inasmuch as that can be predicted) mid to late September into early October, Sardinia or Sicily? Pilates, I see that you were there in around the same time that we are planning to be there and it sounds like you had a good time so I would assume good weather? Also, can you tell me what you did not care for in Sicily? Did you go to Taormina?

Thanks.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2007, 12:27 PM
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Hi mikster, we had departed on Sept 13 and returned Oct 11. We had perfect weather. Either island would/should (theoretically) work out well weatherwise.

What I loved about Sardinia was the incredibly beautiful water. I LOVED the people of Sardinia. Everyone was so friendly and accommodating. We stayed in La Maddalena, Castelsardo (my favorite), Alghero, Stintino (gorgeous beach) and one night in Olbia before our flight to Catania.

We stayed in Taormina and loved it too. We splurged here and had a fabulous suite at the Grand Timeo. We also stayed in Siracusa one night, one night in Lipari, two or 3 in Vulcano, and then 2 or 3 nights in Palermo. That was my 4th trip to Italy.

Regarding Sicily, I must re-state that I am most decidedly in the MINORITY regarding my feelings for Sicily in comparison to the other Sicilian travelers on Fodors...but since you asked..... To us, the Sicilians were much less welcoming/warm on the whole. We had bad luck with people giving us the wrong change at least 3 times, example: we'd give 20 euro and receive change for a 10. We were also charged an extra euro or two here and there for coffee. Charging me for a caffe corretto (which means a shot of booze is added), when I had ordered and received a caffe lungo, which means a tiny bit more water is added. I finally got to the point where I'd ask, "How much is this?" or "How much would it cost for 2 caffe lungo and to sit at that table?" I don't like surprises and I don't like to fight over one or two euros, but I don't like the game they played with us as tourists either.

In Lipari, the hotels that I looked at before deciding (5 of them) were kind of run down and very expensive for October. The merchants were indifferent and in one museum downright rude by completely ignoring us. (I speak italian fluently and with more than 20 years in sales, I do know how to approach someone appropriately with a question) After one night in Lipari I wanted off the island so we went to Vulcano and had a lovely time. It was VERY quiet and we stayed at a sister hotel of the Grand Timeo called Les Sables Noirs, and once again received excellent customer service.

We found Siracusa to be filthy with dog crap all over. We walked a LOT in Siracusa and that was our experience so being turned off, we left after one day. We really enjoyed our stay in Palermo. There is a lot to see and it was neat to be in the hustle and bustle of that city.

Of course we met a few nice people and merchants in Sicily but after having spent two PERFECT weeks in Sardinia, maybe we got spoiled, I don't know. We also got a MUCH better value on the dollar in Sardinia for hotel prices. Our hotel in Stintino is a 4 star but we only paid like 90 euro because it was off season! Sardinia only has a million inhabitants on the island. They just seemed to be such happy, easy going people which really enriched our time there. I'm happy to answer any more of your questions if you'd like.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2007, 05:20 PM
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>>I don't like surprises and I don't like to fight over one or two euros, but I don't like the game they played with us as tourists either.<<

I've never encountered this, and I've been to Sicily five times in the past four years. I speak Italian, but I think it's pretty evident to the naked eye that I'm a tourist.
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Old Aug 24th, 2007, 05:48 AM
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Thanks all. Pilates, would you mind telling me what stood out to you about Castelsardo and if you have a hotel recommendation there? Someone suggested Hotel Gabbiano Azzure which is in Golfo Arancia, Sassari? Do you know anything about this location? I believe that it is close to Olbia. If we do spend close to our two weeks in Sardinia, do you think we can stay in one place and drive to visit the other areas or would you suggest moving around a bit? I assume we need a car either way? It sounds like we would really enjoy Sardinia. I love your description of the people and that is right up our alley.

Thank you so much.
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Old Aug 25th, 2007, 08:09 AM
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Hi Mikster, Re: Castelsardo, We stayed at the Hotel Riviera www.hotelriviera.net There are 3 cousins who inherited the
hotel/restaurant by their fathers. One handles the hotel, one the restaurant and the other handles the bar. We had arrived by taxi. Our driver drove so fast, I was actually car sick. I felt so sick when we arrived, I almost didn't notice a man run across the street and grab both our bags and bring them up the stairs into the bright reception area. It was Pietro the hotel director. This hotel was so bright and airy. I noticed the big FoFo sign which I had remembered seeing in my research. FoFo is the hotel's incredible restaurant. With excellent food and impeccable service. At reception, another young man took one look at me and had me sit down on one of the sofas and brought me some hot tea. After one look at the room (#218), we said we wanted to stay 3 nights! It was large, airy, modern and with an incredible view of the sea. The big windows and balcony let in the fresh sea air plus there was a great view of the centro storico and the beach below.

My husband had a vision problem that needed to be addressed immediately. We told the Pietro about the problem with my husbands eye and lo and behold he knew of an eye specialist in their little town! The doctor only worked Mondays and Fridays in town. The other days of the week he was in Sassari as the director of their eye center. We were in good hands. It was a Friday and Pietro got us in to see the doctor. In the meantime we needed to change dollars to euros so we asked where we could find a bank. The director of the restaurant started to explain how to get there but then I think he took pity on the car-sick condition I was still in, so he drove us a few blocks to the bank. We were really impressed by these folks!

Directly across the two lane road in front of the hotel is a tiny bay. Plenty of sand, clean water and tide pools. The hotel will bring out an umbrella and chairs for you if you want. A short walk away is the centro storico (old town) about 1100 years old. The views are beautiful as you walk to the centro storico. They have a 900 year old church and we were able to see a wedding take place. To me, it was like a peaceful Italian "Mayberry" on the sea.

RE: Golfo Aranci: I don't know much about it except that it's on the famous Emerald Coast known for it's beautiful beaches/water. From my research, I got the impression that in that area you will find resorts more so than old Sardinian towns. Because it's been developed over the last 40 years, we chose not to go there because I wanted "real Italy" as opposed to "Miami".

With 2 weeks, I would definitely move around. I would stick to the north with the time you have. If you like driving, I would definitely get a car. (My husband and I don't like to drive so we didn't) It's so much easier to travel there in the off season. Finding a hotel is easy and the prices are really reasonable in the off season. I bought the Cadogan guide to Sardinia which helped a lot in deciding where to go. If you go, you must tell us what you thought of the island and the places you visit. I want to live vicariously through your trip! I just loved Sardinia.
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Old Aug 27th, 2007, 09:13 AM
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Hi Pilates...thank you so much. I too want real Italy and not Miami so I will heed your recommendation and consider booking at your hotel in Castelsardo. It sounds right up our alley. We will have a car so that should not be a problem. May I ask what you thought of the other locations you stayed in and if you would recommend those accommodations as well? I know you said you stayed in a 4 star that was very reasonable in Stintino. Also,what did you think about Alghero? Sorry for all of the questions but it sounds like you have the same tastes that my husband and I do with regard to exploring the real Italy and its people.
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Old Aug 27th, 2007, 02:41 PM
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Hi Mikster, I would whole heartedly suggest a couple of nights in Stintino! There is an actual town of Stintino but if you keep driving 5 minutes past the town, you'll come to the end of the road where you'll find the famous La Pelosa beach. The colors of the water here are indescribably beautiful. So many colors of blue, so many colors of green, all transparent and spectacular! It was the last few days in September when we had stayed there.

We stayed at Hotel Club Roccaruja which is maybe 1/4 mile before you get to La Pelosa Beach. They have a large hotel and also some apartments on the property. We stayed in the hotel part which is a 4 star. It was only 90 euro a night! (Based on what I can see, the price is actually going to be about the same for the end of September 2007) It was so perfect as we practically had the place to ourselves. The breakfast buffet was included and it was huge. Don't go for the half pension as it's pretty expensive and will prohibit you from trying the food at Il Gabbiano across the street on the beach or the restaurant La Pelosetta which is located on the La Pelosa beach.....a short walk away from the Roccaruja. With your car you can also drive yourselves to Stintino for something to eat. There is another place you could stay called "La Pelosetta". This is on La Pelosa beach. It appeared that they had a bunch of little bungalows to rent.

Here are some links so that you can see the pictures of the Roccaruja hotel. They still don't have their own website. We had our hotel in Alghero (Soleado) call them and make a reservation for us.
http://tinyurl.com/32d3q7
http://tinyurl.com/3yf3o8

Alghero was fun. Regarding hotels, we first tried Villa Las Tronas. We couldn't see a room (Sometimes I like to look at the rooms first. It depends on the vibe I get when I walk in) and its location seemed kind of isolated. We went to Carlos 5. It looked nice but they were full. These two hotels were(are?) Alghero's finest but they are quite a trek from the white sandy beach area. We stopped at another hotel a 3 star near Carlos 5 but it was in dire need of a facelift and had no elevator. Went to Hotel Florida but they had no room available to see. Went next door to Hotel Soleado. The sweet girl at the reception (Monica) showed me two rooms. It seemed fine so I said OK. The AC blew air, not cold air though. The florescent lights aren't too appealing, but we decided that the location and the bathtub were both good reasons to stay. Lots of water pressure and lots of hot water. It's right across the street to a big beach and it's a nice 15 minute walk along the marina to the centro storico area. The owner is multi-lingual and the gals speak some English too. The people here were friendly. This is not "The Ritz", but it was just fine for a couple of nights. I see it has good, recent reviews on Trip Advisor, which is nice.

If you go to Alghero you MUST stop at my favorite pizzeria. Assuming of course that you LOVE thin crust Italian pizza. If you do, go to the centro storico area. It's open for lunch. Siesta was observed by most when we were here which can make finding a place open for lunch difficult. It's called "Passaparola" on Via Gilbert Ferret 35. We ate a vege pizza, a 4 cheese pizza, 2 beers (me) and 3 diet cokes (husband!) for less than 20E. We were thirsty after being in the sun all morning-HA! Of course that was a few years ago and prices/food can change.....but the vegetarian pizza was so good and what a bargain! We went there twice.

I enjoy writing this info for you because I can still vividly see everything that I describe to you. It's puts a smile on my face! Let me know if I can help you in any way.
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Old Aug 28th, 2007, 08:31 AM
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Pilates...you are very kind and generous...and yes...we love Italian think crust pizza! We won't be doing this trip until September 2008 so I may ask you other questions from time time before we actually go. My huband and I celebrate 20 years of marriage in early October of next year and this is our gift to ourselves. We both love Italy and your description of Sardegna has convinced us that this is the place for us. We will visit Silicy on another trip. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience.
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Old Aug 28th, 2007, 10:48 AM
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A guidebook writer's list of what not to miss in Sardegna: .
-the southwestern islands of Sant'Antioco & San Pietro (Carloforte) where Genoese dialect is still spoken.
-Neptune's grotto near Alghero
- fresh tuna & zuppa di pesce, sardinian sweets like seadas & suspiros, washed down with local drink mirto
-visit at least l archeological site such as Tharros
-catch the sight of the flamingos on the water near Cagliari
-the mining museum at Porta Flavia if you like "industrial archeology"
Smart to go in October since its still warm enough to swim but summer crowds have left. You can take the overnight ferry from Civitavecchia, a short ride from here . Check articles on elegantetruria.com for indepth info
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Old Aug 28th, 2007, 11:31 AM
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Thank you...this is very helpful!
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