I'm going to write up some notes here, not write a real trip report. I've been to Barcelona before, so will not be doing all of the big tourist attractions on this trip. I'm here mainly to wander around and get the feel of the city, and do some great eating and window shopping before I fly on to Andalucia next week.
I did what felt like tons of research about hotels. The big issue for a visitor is where to stay. The atmospheric and tourist-packed Gothic Quarter and Born, OR the more modern area developed with the expansion of the city. I'd stayed in the Eixample on previous visits, and decided to stay here again, although in a hotel new to me, THE MAJESTIC on the main avenue, Passeig de Gracia. (Barcelona streets names have Catalan spelling, so this would be "Paseo de Gracia" in Castilian Spanish, which is the language I speak (other than English) )
Whenever a thought comes to me that might help first-time visitors, I will relay it here. The first is about language. Catalan is the language of the Catalan people, but Spanish is spoken everywhere a tourist might venture. There is no need to feel unsure or fear that anyone is going to respond poorly if you do not address them in Catalan. Use your high-school Spanish---people appreciate the effort. And remember that many of the people you will come into contact with as a tourist will hail not only from Catalunya, but from other parts of mainland Spain, and Latin America. Many, many hotel front desk people are Argentine, and many of the housekeeping staff are Honduran, Ecuadorean, Dominican, etc. English is VERY widely spoken here and you can probably get long just fine even fi you have not one word of Spanish--in hotels, in restaurants, etc..... For some of the people you will encounter, English is a second language...front desk staff and waiters might be French, or Bengali!
Back to hotels, I finally decided on staying again in the Eixample, at THE MAJESTIC, one of the grand old hotels of this city, right on the Passeig de Gracia.
I had a ticket on IBERIA but the metal was changed to AMERICAN a few days before my flight from Miami. There was quite a lot of turbulence during almost the entire flight, and the captain warned us of this on take-off. We were on an older plane, or so the flight attendant told me, but it was fine and I dozed for some of the flight, and read during the rest of the time since the film selection was not too tempting. Food was pretty good..I skipped the dinner and asked just for the cheese plate and dessert but I apparently fell asleep before they could serve me the dessert (Ice cream sundae and lemon tart). Sorry I missed those!
We arrived early--just before 7am in rainy Barcelona and of course, I'd been worried about what I was going to do with myself while waiting for check in. The airport was not crowded, and I breezed through the new entry formalities (fingerprint check and photo) in less than two minutes. There is a long line of taxis out front and I was soon on my way, arriving at the hotel after a metered taxi ride of about 30 minutes (about 25 euro.).
I had booked the hotel with Virtuoso, and one of the benefits is early check in and late check out as well as room upgrade--all subject to availability. Well, I really lucked out, because despite the fact that city hotels were bursting with attendees of the MOBILE WORLD CONGRESS, I was upgraded two room categories, from the least expensive room to a larger one. More important, when I asked about check in time at the front desk, the reception guy actually apologized that the room was not ready and that I would have to wait '"about an hour.: I was then met by the Guest Services Manager, who escorted me into their elegant breakfast room and offered me a complimentary buffet/a la carte breakfast while I waited for the room to be readied.. This was so astoundingly fantastic on that rainy Thursday morning!
The MAJESTIC won the prize for 'best hotel breakfast in Europe" in 2018 and, surveying the lavish array at the various stations, I was not too surprised. I won't go into the details, but just say that, along with everything else, they have a dish of the day; yesterday it was won ton soup (!) and this morning, butifarra (the Catalan sausage) with white beans and a garlicky mayonnaise which a perfect BEGINNING to my breakfast.
I got to the upgraded room well before 9:30, and slept for a few hours after I unpacked and had a glass of the cava that had been gifted to me by the Virtuoso agent, Linda Terrill,, who I use if I want to book a hotel that is affiliated with them. (I learned about Virtuoso on Fodor's, long ago, when a frequent poster living in Japan wrote about it on the Asia board. It's more or less similar to the American Express Platinum hotel grouping; you pay the rack rate but you get some nice extras.
I've booked with Virtuoso before, in Spain, Italy and Japan and I think they are great if you are looking for a 4 or 5-star accommodation. They offer other services but I use them only for hotel reservations. I ought to mention that the hotel website showed no availability for my first night, due to the conference, but the Virtuoso agent was able to snag a room for me...and that great upgrade!!
After a relax in the room, I walked to MUT BAR, a tiny restaurant that I had booked a few weeks ago, It was pouring cats and dogs, as my Nana would say, but it was not more than a 15 minute walk.. This turned out to be a pretty outstanding restaurant; it seats maybe 20 diners, if that, and had just been awarded its second Michelin star, but if you think that Michelin stars mean fancy dining, you would be very wrong. This was a cool, casual place (I wore jeans and my black Zara hooded jacket) with some of the most creative and delicious food I've had in a long time. (The name MUT is a Catalan slang for "vermut")
I have to get ready for tonight's dinner, so will return later on with notes about the meal, and how I spent today, my first full day in Barcelona.
NOTE TO EDITORS; I MARKED THIS AS A TRIP REPORT, BUT IT IS NOT SHOWING AS SUCH...CAN THE NOTATION BE ADDED?
I did what felt like tons of research about hotels. The big issue for a visitor is where to stay. The atmospheric and tourist-packed Gothic Quarter and Born, OR the more modern area developed with the expansion of the city. I'd stayed in the Eixample on previous visits, and decided to stay here again, although in a hotel new to me, THE MAJESTIC on the main avenue, Passeig de Gracia. (Barcelona streets names have Catalan spelling, so this would be "Paseo de Gracia" in Castilian Spanish, which is the language I speak (other than English) )
Whenever a thought comes to me that might help first-time visitors, I will relay it here. The first is about language. Catalan is the language of the Catalan people, but Spanish is spoken everywhere a tourist might venture. There is no need to feel unsure or fear that anyone is going to respond poorly if you do not address them in Catalan. Use your high-school Spanish---people appreciate the effort. And remember that many of the people you will come into contact with as a tourist will hail not only from Catalunya, but from other parts of mainland Spain, and Latin America. Many, many hotel front desk people are Argentine, and many of the housekeeping staff are Honduran, Ecuadorean, Dominican, etc. English is VERY widely spoken here and you can probably get long just fine even fi you have not one word of Spanish--in hotels, in restaurants, etc..... For some of the people you will encounter, English is a second language...front desk staff and waiters might be French, or Bengali!
Back to hotels, I finally decided on staying again in the Eixample, at THE MAJESTIC, one of the grand old hotels of this city, right on the Passeig de Gracia.
I had a ticket on IBERIA but the metal was changed to AMERICAN a few days before my flight from Miami. There was quite a lot of turbulence during almost the entire flight, and the captain warned us of this on take-off. We were on an older plane, or so the flight attendant told me, but it was fine and I dozed for some of the flight, and read during the rest of the time since the film selection was not too tempting. Food was pretty good..I skipped the dinner and asked just for the cheese plate and dessert but I apparently fell asleep before they could serve me the dessert (Ice cream sundae and lemon tart). Sorry I missed those!
We arrived early--just before 7am in rainy Barcelona and of course, I'd been worried about what I was going to do with myself while waiting for check in. The airport was not crowded, and I breezed through the new entry formalities (fingerprint check and photo) in less than two minutes. There is a long line of taxis out front and I was soon on my way, arriving at the hotel after a metered taxi ride of about 30 minutes (about 25 euro.).
I had booked the hotel with Virtuoso, and one of the benefits is early check in and late check out as well as room upgrade--all subject to availability. Well, I really lucked out, because despite the fact that city hotels were bursting with attendees of the MOBILE WORLD CONGRESS, I was upgraded two room categories, from the least expensive room to a larger one. More important, when I asked about check in time at the front desk, the reception guy actually apologized that the room was not ready and that I would have to wait '"about an hour.: I was then met by the Guest Services Manager, who escorted me into their elegant breakfast room and offered me a complimentary buffet/a la carte breakfast while I waited for the room to be readied.. This was so astoundingly fantastic on that rainy Thursday morning!
The MAJESTIC won the prize for 'best hotel breakfast in Europe" in 2018 and, surveying the lavish array at the various stations, I was not too surprised. I won't go into the details, but just say that, along with everything else, they have a dish of the day; yesterday it was won ton soup (!) and this morning, butifarra (the Catalan sausage) with white beans and a garlicky mayonnaise which a perfect BEGINNING to my breakfast.
I got to the upgraded room well before 9:30, and slept for a few hours after I unpacked and had a glass of the cava that had been gifted to me by the Virtuoso agent, Linda Terrill,, who I use if I want to book a hotel that is affiliated with them. (I learned about Virtuoso on Fodor's, long ago, when a frequent poster living in Japan wrote about it on the Asia board. It's more or less similar to the American Express Platinum hotel grouping; you pay the rack rate but you get some nice extras.
I've booked with Virtuoso before, in Spain, Italy and Japan and I think they are great if you are looking for a 4 or 5-star accommodation. They offer other services but I use them only for hotel reservations. I ought to mention that the hotel website showed no availability for my first night, due to the conference, but the Virtuoso agent was able to snag a room for me...and that great upgrade!!
After a relax in the room, I walked to MUT BAR, a tiny restaurant that I had booked a few weeks ago, It was pouring cats and dogs, as my Nana would say, but it was not more than a 15 minute walk.. This turned out to be a pretty outstanding restaurant; it seats maybe 20 diners, if that, and had just been awarded its second Michelin star, but if you think that Michelin stars mean fancy dining, you would be very wrong. This was a cool, casual place (I wore jeans and my black Zara hooded jacket) with some of the most creative and delicious food I've had in a long time. (The name MUT is a Catalan slang for "vermut")
I have to get ready for tonight's dinner, so will return later on with notes about the meal, and how I spent today, my first full day in Barcelona.
NOTE TO EDITORS; I MARKED THIS AS A TRIP REPORT, BUT IT IS NOT SHOWING AS SUCH...CAN THE NOTATION BE ADDED?
It was purring rain when I waled to MONT BAR, where I had booked my first dinner in the city,, so I was so happy that it took me no more than 20 minutes, tops, to walk there, through the very good neighborhood west of Passeig de Gracia.
MONT BAR is a tiny restaurant, really more of a bar than restaurant. Glass walls, floor-to-ceiling shelves of wine bottles, smartly dressed waiters--you might imagine you are in a chic gastro-bistro in Paris. Servers were multi-lingual and welcomed em with smiles when I showed up, drenched, off the street. They were accorded their second Michelin star not long ago but for anyone who imagines Michelin restaurants as fancy or stuffy or wildly expensive, this place serves as a good lesson. It felt as if I were invited to a smart sit down meal at someone's home, despite the lack of tablecloths. Just super cozy and friendly, not int he least bit pretentious.
The kitchen is astoundingly creative, using mostly local ingredients in refreshing new ways. You cannot label it "Spanish" cooking: I'd say "modern European with a lot of style. So they reach the mark not only on product, but on the exquisite execution. And totally casual...you can bring a book, or chat with the servers if you want, or just concentrate on every bite, because some of these bites were pretty terrific! My bill, with water only, cane to 71euro and I felt it was a memorable meal well worth the price.
I'm going to attempt to post some photos here....Ok...cannot post any photos..I'm sorry about that. I have ben able to do this for the past few years, but something has changed here and Ive already spent 30 minutes trying to upload with no results...I've gone to advanced search...put the photo under 'current attachments" etc....nothing is working...
Ok..finally was able to add one photo--the main room off MONT BAR.
If someone can give me step-by-step directions for posting photos from a MacBook, I'd be grateful.....why Fodor's has changed the method for adding photos when the previous one worked so well is a mystery to me.
OK...I am going to continue the restaurant and food comments, with photos, on HUNGRYONION.ORG....here is the link; so far I've covered MONT BAR and SUCULENT, plus a bakery and a food market near my hotel. Later I will add photos and comments about my lunch today at ULTRAMARINOS MARIN--a highlight of the trip so far!!
Here is the link:
https://www.hungryonion.org/t/barcel...s-3-26/47106/6
MONT BAR is a tiny restaurant, really more of a bar than restaurant. Glass walls, floor-to-ceiling shelves of wine bottles, smartly dressed waiters--you might imagine you are in a chic gastro-bistro in Paris. Servers were multi-lingual and welcomed em with smiles when I showed up, drenched, off the street. They were accorded their second Michelin star not long ago but for anyone who imagines Michelin restaurants as fancy or stuffy or wildly expensive, this place serves as a good lesson. It felt as if I were invited to a smart sit down meal at someone's home, despite the lack of tablecloths. Just super cozy and friendly, not int he least bit pretentious.
The kitchen is astoundingly creative, using mostly local ingredients in refreshing new ways. You cannot label it "Spanish" cooking: I'd say "modern European with a lot of style. So they reach the mark not only on product, but on the exquisite execution. And totally casual...you can bring a book, or chat with the servers if you want, or just concentrate on every bite, because some of these bites were pretty terrific! My bill, with water only, cane to 71euro and I felt it was a memorable meal well worth the price.
I'm going to attempt to post some photos here....Ok...cannot post any photos..I'm sorry about that. I have ben able to do this for the past few years, but something has changed here and Ive already spent 30 minutes trying to upload with no results...I've gone to advanced search...put the photo under 'current attachments" etc....nothing is working...
Ok..finally was able to add one photo--the main room off MONT BAR.
If someone can give me step-by-step directions for posting photos from a MacBook, I'd be grateful.....why Fodor's has changed the method for adding photos when the previous one worked so well is a mystery to me.
OK...I am going to continue the restaurant and food comments, with photos, on HUNGRYONION.ORG....here is the link; so far I've covered MONT BAR and SUCULENT, plus a bakery and a food market near my hotel. Later I will add photos and comments about my lunch today at ULTRAMARINOS MARIN--a highlight of the trip so far!!
Here is the link:
https://www.hungryonion.org/t/barcel...s-3-26/47106/6
Quote:
ekscrunchy, I often upload photos from my MacBook Air. I am not remotely a techie, so I may use some words incorrectly, but here is how I do it.Originally Posted by ekscrunchy
... If someone can give me step-by-step directions for posting photos from a MacBook, I'd be grateful.....
Look for the "Manage Attachments" button when writing a post. If you are starting a new thread, it will be at towards the bottom of the post you are working on. If you are replying to a thread, you have to click on "Go Advanced" to reveal the "Manage Attachements" button.
Clicking on the Manage Attachments will bring up a page looking like this:
At this point you do not have to fiddle with the From URL or any of the other three buttons; you can simply click on and drag a photo from your Photos library into the big space under those options. It will then create a small image of the photo, and at that point you can click the "Upload" button in the upper right corner.
The photo will then upload into your post to wherever you had left the curser in your draft post.
I'm looking forward to the rest of your trip report..
Quote:
Look for the "Manage Attachments" button when writing a post. If you are starting a new thread, it will be at towards the bottom of the post you are working on. If you are replying to a thread, you have to click on "Go Advanced" to reveal the "Manage Attachements" button.
Clicking on the Manage Attachments will bring up a page looking like this:
At this point you do not have to fiddle with the From URL or any of the other three buttons; you can simply click on and drag a photo from your Photos library into the big space under those options. It will then create a small image of the photo, and at that point you can click the "Upload" button in the upper right corner.
The photo will then upload into your post to wherever you had left the curser in your draft post.
I'm looking forward to the rest of your trip report..
Originally Posted by AnselmAdorne
ekscrunchy, I often upload photos from my MacBook Air. I am not remotely a techie, so I may use some words incorrectly, but here is how I do it.Look for the "Manage Attachments" button when writing a post. If you are starting a new thread, it will be at towards the bottom of the post you are working on. If you are replying to a thread, you have to click on "Go Advanced" to reveal the "Manage Attachements" button.
Clicking on the Manage Attachments will bring up a page looking like this:
At this point you do not have to fiddle with the From URL or any of the other three buttons; you can simply click on and drag a photo from your Photos library into the big space under those options. It will then create a small image of the photo, and at that point you can click the "Upload" button in the upper right corner.
The photo will then upload into your post to wherever you had left the curser in your draft post.
I'm looking forward to the rest of your trip report..
AA, thanks a million!!! I was so frustrated earlier today! Just returned home from opera (Norma, my favorite) at Palau de Musica, but will get moving on this tomorrow!! Thank you, again....ek
ek, you're welcome, and sleep well.
BTW, we just returned from two weeks in Spain: Valencia, Alicante, and a week of long-distance walking in the Costa Blanca hinterland (an area known as the Marina Alta). i mention this because we dined at two (or was it three?) restos that you mentioned in your trip report from that area. I'll get it sorted out in my mind and write a trip report in the coming week.
BTW, we just returned from two weeks in Spain: Valencia, Alicante, and a week of long-distance walking in the Costa Blanca hinterland (an area known as the Marina Alta). i mention this because we dined at two (or was it three?) restos that you mentioned in your trip report from that area. I'll get it sorted out in my mind and write a trip report in the coming week.
AA..So frustrating. I don't see that page when I click on "manage attachments: after "going advanced....(??)
I so much want to add the photos and continue the report, but don't want to waste so much time in my hotel room!!!
I so much want to add the photos and continue the report, but don't want to waste so much time in my hotel room!!!
I maanged to get this on the page, but nothing comes up when I click it...
https://www.fodors.com/community/images/attach/jpg.giffile:///Users/ericakleine/Pictures/Photos%20Library.photoslibrary/resources/derivatives/C/C95D7A8E-3D2D-4213-9C5B-D9707582F419_1_105_c.jpeg
I'm using safari on a Mac, if that makes any difference (??)
https://www.fodors.com/community/images/attach/jpg.giffile:///Users/ericakleine/Pictures/Photos%20Library.photoslibrary/resources/derivatives/C/C95D7A8E-3D2D-4213-9C5B-D9707582F419_1_105_c.jpeg
I'm using safari on a Mac, if that makes any difference (??)
eks, that is very strange, but I understand why you don't want to waste time in your hotel over this! The only other thing I can think of is to reach out to a moderator, but that, too, will chew up time while you work with them to solve the problem.
Meanwhile, enjoy all that Barcelona has to offer!
Meanwhile, enjoy all that Barcelona has to offer!
ekscrunchy I am able to post photos to my TR using my MacBook Air. My photos on my macbook are usually in Iphoto. I drag the photos I want to post from IPhoto onto the desktop. Next step is when I reply, I use the "Go Advanced" reply, then you will see the text box as usual. click on the picture icon on the tool bar above the text box. Once you click you should get a pop-up and you click on "From Device". Once you click that, it should give you a dialog box asking which files you'd like to upload. Since my photos are already on the "desktop", I pick the Desktop folder and the photos are there for me to click to upload. Hope this helps?
click on the photo icon
You should get this pop up, select "from Device"
click on the photo icon
You should get this pop up, select "from Device"
I am in a restaurant now and the oddest thing: When I open to reply, I see that same window with the icons above the text box. Like I used to see on my laptop. But in past few weeks the laptop page shows a completely different thing. Without those icons up top!!
if I could post pics, I could show you the page that I see!!!
My artichokes are getting cold here!! And I showed up late here cause I got so caught up in all this!!!!!! Ay yay yay!!!!
if I could post pics, I could show you the page that I see!!!
My artichokes are getting cold here!! And I showed up late here cause I got so caught up in all this!!!!!! Ay yay yay!!!!
What I meant to say is that I can see the icons when I am on Fodors on my iPhone, so I would know how to post pics...oonly I cannot do that on my phone!!!
First huge mistake, up above, is that the restaurant I went to on the night of arrival was MONT BAR, not Mut Bar, as I wrote.
This is the website and since I cannot post any photos, I will just write a series of brief snippers of where I are and what I did during the week I spent in Barcelona...
https://montbar.com/en/
I had a lovely meal, but was too full to sample their cochinillo, so considered returning at lunch just to try that dish.
That idea turned out very badly for me, as I will relate later...I am still hoping to have some one help with photos but for now....
First dinner, day of arrival: MONT BAR.
Following day, wandered around getting to know the neighborhood around my hotel and set off about 3pm for the walk to LA SAGRADA FAMILA where I had booked a b=guided tour for 4:45pm, to take advantage of the light pouring into the stained glass windows last in the afternoon. Although the day was grey and drizzly, the light inside was astonishingly beautiful!
The guided tour was good..some of the patter was pretty basic but I did learn quite a bit; I had not realized how many other artists had worked on the church, both during Gaudi's tenure and after his death. The church was jam packed with tour groups and so, very noisy. The crowds put a bit of a damper on the experience--this is the most visited site in Spain--but it was still captivating in so many ways, The bronze doors with Nature motifs crafted by a Japanese artists in the last few decades were a highlight for me...alas, I cannot post my pics!!!
The hope is that the completion will be this year, in time for the Pope's visit, which I believe is scheduled for this summer.
The ongoing work takes place outside the city; late at night the elements are trucked into the site and construction. takes place in the early hours of the morning, to minimize the disturbance to locals...... The area surrounding the basilica is filled with dirt fields, cranes, and construction equipment.
Interesting how Gaudi lost his life in a streetcar accident, and Frieda Kahlo was maimed by the same. Gaudi had no identification on hi8m when he was taken to hospital where he lingered a few days before expiring.
From there I walked back to my hotel, stopping for what would be the first of a series of forays to ice cream shops....I do not recommend the fist one I tried; I so craved a cup that I ignored the whipped mounds at DA GALLO.
Back to the hotel, barely time to change before I set out for the walk to my next dinner, at SUCULENT, in the "bad" part of El Raval, the barrio to the west of Las Ramblas that garners so much panic among tourists....
I should say bit about El Raval, and about Las Ramblas....
This is the website and since I cannot post any photos, I will just write a series of brief snippers of where I are and what I did during the week I spent in Barcelona...
https://montbar.com/en/
I had a lovely meal, but was too full to sample their cochinillo, so considered returning at lunch just to try that dish.
That idea turned out very badly for me, as I will relate later...I am still hoping to have some one help with photos but for now....
First dinner, day of arrival: MONT BAR.
Following day, wandered around getting to know the neighborhood around my hotel and set off about 3pm for the walk to LA SAGRADA FAMILA where I had booked a b=guided tour for 4:45pm, to take advantage of the light pouring into the stained glass windows last in the afternoon. Although the day was grey and drizzly, the light inside was astonishingly beautiful!
The guided tour was good..some of the patter was pretty basic but I did learn quite a bit; I had not realized how many other artists had worked on the church, both during Gaudi's tenure and after his death. The church was jam packed with tour groups and so, very noisy. The crowds put a bit of a damper on the experience--this is the most visited site in Spain--but it was still captivating in so many ways, The bronze doors with Nature motifs crafted by a Japanese artists in the last few decades were a highlight for me...alas, I cannot post my pics!!!
The hope is that the completion will be this year, in time for the Pope's visit, which I believe is scheduled for this summer.
The ongoing work takes place outside the city; late at night the elements are trucked into the site and construction. takes place in the early hours of the morning, to minimize the disturbance to locals...... The area surrounding the basilica is filled with dirt fields, cranes, and construction equipment.
Interesting how Gaudi lost his life in a streetcar accident, and Frieda Kahlo was maimed by the same. Gaudi had no identification on hi8m when he was taken to hospital where he lingered a few days before expiring.
From there I walked back to my hotel, stopping for what would be the first of a series of forays to ice cream shops....I do not recommend the fist one I tried; I so craved a cup that I ignored the whipped mounds at DA GALLO.
Back to the hotel, barely time to change before I set out for the walk to my next dinner, at SUCULENT, in the "bad" part of El Raval, the barrio to the west of Las Ramblas that garners so much panic among tourists....
I should say bit about El Raval, and about Las Ramblas....
I wish I could edit the title here because, despite the forecast, I had only two days of rain, one day with slight drizzle, and three glorious sunny days......
Since my only hope to post photos appears to be with my phone, which I've not done but I do see the icons there, I'm going to change tactics here and nisntead of a trip report, just offer a few comments on my spectacular stay in Barcelona that began with that wonderful early check before 10am on the day of arrival!
I've already described my visit to LA SAGRADA FAMILA. Even though it was rainy, the light pouring in from the windows was vivid and bright. But the place is so jammed with tourists that I was glad to have visited before, when things were less hectic.
Despite all the warnings about always having your passport on you,, I left mine at the hotel as Ii always do. I'd rather take the chance of being asked for it by police than of having it stolen. (I had photos of both sides on my phone but no one asked to see them; note that I did not take any trains)
No identification is needed to enter Sagrada Familia (you do pass through an x-ray machine there) nor for the Palau de Musica Catalana where I had the magical experience of attending NORMA, my favorite opera.
Almost all of my live opera experience has been at the Met and it was fascinating to see the contrasts between this production and those I've seen in New York. There are no sets at the Palau--the venue is THE set and you could not imagine one more glorious. Also strange to me was that once the performance (given in one act only, no intermission) was finished, there were no bows taken by the cast, no bravos, just clappiing....all quiet as compared to The Met. And when the orchestra left the stage, the audience remained seated for at least ten minutes, just sitting and chatting!!!
After reading all those scare tales of scams and pickpocketing, I must say that I felt as safe as I would have back home, even at nights when I walked through El Raval to get to two different restaurants I'd booked in that barrio.
My hotel staff did advise me to take a taxi to one f the restaurants, but I was eager to walk around and feel the city.... During my week there, I took three taxis--from airport to hotel and reverse (both regular taxis, both metered, and both routes cost about 25 euro). I took the third taxi one day to go from a restaurant back to my hotel, as I was at the point of exhaustion and felt I could not walk another step....just under 5 euro from blames north of Diagonal to The Majestic. Compared to New York, taxis in Barcelona are cheap
Most of the city can be covered on foot and I walked several times from my hotel to Born, to El Raval, to Sagrada Familia, and to restaurants all of which I had booked in advance. My highest step count was 23,931; the lowest was on the day of arrival, when I walked only to MONT BAR, clocking 5625 steps.
A few times, I carried a regular handbag (my large Loewe that I bought in Madrid and use at home). When I was heading to El Raval or Barrio Gotico,, I wore a leather waist bag that I like very much, from Portland Leather: The Zip Tight Belt Bag.
I paid for everything with a credit card, except for one cup of ice cream.
I did not tip in restaurants, taxis or at the hotel.
I was never asked for a tip at a restaurant.
A few times, I was asked if I wanted to pay in euro, but most of the time, this was taken for granted and I was not asked.
I was never asked for a PIN number when using my card (Costco Citi Visa, no foreign exchange fees and substantial cash back every year)
Everywhere I ventured, I was overwhelmed by the friendliness of the people I met, and spent a total of many hours chatting with locals---the owner of a very cool eyewear store, where I stopped in to have my glasses adjusted (no charge, but an hour of conversation about various neighborhoods in Barcelona--apparently, Sants is Becoming popular with people priced out of Gracia and the Eixample, and the state of the retail glasses industry today. (Ruben, the owner of this very stylish eyewear boutique, actually complimented me on my Amazon-bought readers, and even explained how the original design had been copied for sale at lower prices; he told me that I had an excellent replica of the original. If you find yourselves needing glasses, they can make them in a day or two and their styles are very cool and sell for a range of prices; there was no charge to adjust my own pair:
https://drfocus.eu
I did not get to Gracia or Sarria on this visit (neighborhoods I'd fallen in love with on my last visit) but I really liked the Eixample, especially the left side, west of Rambla de Catalunya, and the area just north of Diagonal around Balmes....
I visited three food markets:
LA BOQUERIA is as jammed with tourists as you've read, but I was able to get a seat at EL QUIM for an early lunch without a wait. I also had a bit of a shopping extravaganza at Vidal Pons, maker of the rainbow of fruit jellies crusted with sugar, myriad dried fruits, citrus dipped in dark chocolate, and all sorts of nuts, exotic mushrooms and tropical fruits.....
You've likely seen their stands in the front part of the Boqueria and thought that this was purely tourist stuff. Wrong! You can skip the studs with the plastic cups of fruits juices, but do not miss the more-than-a-century-old Vidal Pons. Their products are not inexpensive (some of the sugar-coated jellied fruits run to 74 euro per kilo) but the quality is impeccable.
https://vidalpons.com/tienda/
...
For actual browsing and buying, MERCAT NINOT and MERCAT DE LA CONCEPCION the latter near my hotel, were everything you imagine a grand Barcelona food market to be, minus the tourist hordes and the signs admonishing "no Tocar." Please grant me a long term rental close to either of those two markets, or the Sant Anton, which I sadly had no time to visit.
Unusual for me, I was on an ice cream streak, and after doing my due diligence, I sampled the wares from four different heladerias, doing my best to avoid those with the fluffy mounds in fluorescent colors which seemed to dominate the ice cream scene in the central neighborhoods. But with a bit of looking, and some long walks, I found these, listed in order from best to not-so-great:
1. GOCCE DI LATTE. Tiny Italian-owned Gelateria in Born
2. DE LA CREM near the university
3. EL GELAT (Albert Roca, award-winning pastry chef and ice cream maker). Rambla de Catalunya. The only shop where the gelato was nestled inside covered metal containers as is correct.
And fourth place by many lengths, DA GALLO on c/Mallorca. This place showcased the mounded, whipped gelato, despite making much of its Sicilian origins. My chocolate fondant and cream di caramel was delicious, just not as delicious as the others I tried...
Since my only hope to post photos appears to be with my phone, which I've not done but I do see the icons there, I'm going to change tactics here and nisntead of a trip report, just offer a few comments on my spectacular stay in Barcelona that began with that wonderful early check before 10am on the day of arrival!
I've already described my visit to LA SAGRADA FAMILA. Even though it was rainy, the light pouring in from the windows was vivid and bright. But the place is so jammed with tourists that I was glad to have visited before, when things were less hectic.
Despite all the warnings about always having your passport on you,, I left mine at the hotel as Ii always do. I'd rather take the chance of being asked for it by police than of having it stolen. (I had photos of both sides on my phone but no one asked to see them; note that I did not take any trains)
No identification is needed to enter Sagrada Familia (you do pass through an x-ray machine there) nor for the Palau de Musica Catalana where I had the magical experience of attending NORMA, my favorite opera.
Almost all of my live opera experience has been at the Met and it was fascinating to see the contrasts between this production and those I've seen in New York. There are no sets at the Palau--the venue is THE set and you could not imagine one more glorious. Also strange to me was that once the performance (given in one act only, no intermission) was finished, there were no bows taken by the cast, no bravos, just clappiing....all quiet as compared to The Met. And when the orchestra left the stage, the audience remained seated for at least ten minutes, just sitting and chatting!!!
After reading all those scare tales of scams and pickpocketing, I must say that I felt as safe as I would have back home, even at nights when I walked through El Raval to get to two different restaurants I'd booked in that barrio.
My hotel staff did advise me to take a taxi to one f the restaurants, but I was eager to walk around and feel the city.... During my week there, I took three taxis--from airport to hotel and reverse (both regular taxis, both metered, and both routes cost about 25 euro). I took the third taxi one day to go from a restaurant back to my hotel, as I was at the point of exhaustion and felt I could not walk another step....just under 5 euro from blames north of Diagonal to The Majestic. Compared to New York, taxis in Barcelona are cheap
Most of the city can be covered on foot and I walked several times from my hotel to Born, to El Raval, to Sagrada Familia, and to restaurants all of which I had booked in advance. My highest step count was 23,931; the lowest was on the day of arrival, when I walked only to MONT BAR, clocking 5625 steps.
A few times, I carried a regular handbag (my large Loewe that I bought in Madrid and use at home). When I was heading to El Raval or Barrio Gotico,, I wore a leather waist bag that I like very much, from Portland Leather: The Zip Tight Belt Bag.
I paid for everything with a credit card, except for one cup of ice cream.
I did not tip in restaurants, taxis or at the hotel.
I was never asked for a tip at a restaurant.
A few times, I was asked if I wanted to pay in euro, but most of the time, this was taken for granted and I was not asked.
I was never asked for a PIN number when using my card (Costco Citi Visa, no foreign exchange fees and substantial cash back every year)
Everywhere I ventured, I was overwhelmed by the friendliness of the people I met, and spent a total of many hours chatting with locals---the owner of a very cool eyewear store, where I stopped in to have my glasses adjusted (no charge, but an hour of conversation about various neighborhoods in Barcelona--apparently, Sants is Becoming popular with people priced out of Gracia and the Eixample, and the state of the retail glasses industry today. (Ruben, the owner of this very stylish eyewear boutique, actually complimented me on my Amazon-bought readers, and even explained how the original design had been copied for sale at lower prices; he told me that I had an excellent replica of the original. If you find yourselves needing glasses, they can make them in a day or two and their styles are very cool and sell for a range of prices; there was no charge to adjust my own pair:
https://drfocus.eu
I did not get to Gracia or Sarria on this visit (neighborhoods I'd fallen in love with on my last visit) but I really liked the Eixample, especially the left side, west of Rambla de Catalunya, and the area just north of Diagonal around Balmes....
I visited three food markets:
LA BOQUERIA is as jammed with tourists as you've read, but I was able to get a seat at EL QUIM for an early lunch without a wait. I also had a bit of a shopping extravaganza at Vidal Pons, maker of the rainbow of fruit jellies crusted with sugar, myriad dried fruits, citrus dipped in dark chocolate, and all sorts of nuts, exotic mushrooms and tropical fruits.....
You've likely seen their stands in the front part of the Boqueria and thought that this was purely tourist stuff. Wrong! You can skip the studs with the plastic cups of fruits juices, but do not miss the more-than-a-century-old Vidal Pons. Their products are not inexpensive (some of the sugar-coated jellied fruits run to 74 euro per kilo) but the quality is impeccable.
https://vidalpons.com/tienda/
...
For actual browsing and buying, MERCAT NINOT and MERCAT DE LA CONCEPCION the latter near my hotel, were everything you imagine a grand Barcelona food market to be, minus the tourist hordes and the signs admonishing "no Tocar." Please grant me a long term rental close to either of those two markets, or the Sant Anton, which I sadly had no time to visit.
Unusual for me, I was on an ice cream streak, and after doing my due diligence, I sampled the wares from four different heladerias, doing my best to avoid those with the fluffy mounds in fluorescent colors which seemed to dominate the ice cream scene in the central neighborhoods. But with a bit of looking, and some long walks, I found these, listed in order from best to not-so-great:
1. GOCCE DI LATTE. Tiny Italian-owned Gelateria in Born
2. DE LA CREM near the university
3. EL GELAT (Albert Roca, award-winning pastry chef and ice cream maker). Rambla de Catalunya. The only shop where the gelato was nestled inside covered metal containers as is correct.
And fourth place by many lengths, DA GALLO on c/Mallorca. This place showcased the mounded, whipped gelato, despite making much of its Sicilian origins. My chocolate fondant and cream di caramel was delicious, just not as delicious as the others I tried...
Amuse at MONT BAR. Mil hojas multi layered pastry with creams of mushrooms and of artichoke. Eat this first, follow with consomme of mushrooms and Bordier butter.
MONT BAR’s creative Catalan “mar i muntanya,” or sea and mountain combined in one dish. This is warm squid sandwiched between impossibly crackly chicken skin
The much anticipated “green pearls,” the spring peas from the Ebro Delta, available only a few weeks a year and commanding high prices. There are other similar peas in Galicia and other regions When you see these on a menu do not hesitate. These were in a light sauce of the vegetable called “glacial ficoide” which I’d not seen before. With pistachio crumble. The ultimate in seasonal product-driven food, this was heavenly. I took a half order.
Espardenyas, or sea cucumber, ate a Catalan delicacy. Delicate meat balanced with pancetta fromJoselito and pecorino in the chef’s version of a carbonara
I passed on dessert , planning to begin my ice cream sampling, so was gifted these lively sweet treats.
I was able to add these pics on my iPhone, where the icons show up, but it take a very long time and I'v e just lost an entire long paragraph...will try to. write text on laptop and add photos on phone..see if that works.
I had a lovely dinner at MONT BAR, my first in the city. The tiny, gleaming dining areas with floor to ceiling wine-bottle stocked shelves could have been listed from a Parisian "gastro bar." Seating is at the marble bar (my seat) or at bare wooden tables that might be shared between two small parties if necessary. Dining here feels like attending en elegant dinner party--young multi-lingual servers and quick to advise, eager to chat if you like. Sinatra and Bennett were plaguing at very low volume so the room was quiet.
My dinner (one full order, two half orders plus two complimentary plates) cost 71.40 euro, very reasonable for one of the city's best loved restaurants that was recently awarded its second Michelin star. (I often sigh when people talk in a derogatory way about restaurants listed in the Michelin gui8de, as if were are all pretentious places putting down parades of tweezer-tweaked dishes.
I had gone back and forth about ordering their suckling pig, Cantonese style, but the kitchen could not divide this into a half order, so I passed, intending to return later in the week if I could find a free time slot. This obsession with the pig would eventually cost me very dearly........
I had a lovely dinner at MONT BAR, my first in the city. The tiny, gleaming dining areas with floor to ceiling wine-bottle stocked shelves could have been listed from a Parisian "gastro bar." Seating is at the marble bar (my seat) or at bare wooden tables that might be shared between two small parties if necessary. Dining here feels like attending en elegant dinner party--young multi-lingual servers and quick to advise, eager to chat if you like. Sinatra and Bennett were plaguing at very low volume so the room was quiet.
My dinner (one full order, two half orders plus two complimentary plates) cost 71.40 euro, very reasonable for one of the city's best loved restaurants that was recently awarded its second Michelin star. (I often sigh when people talk in a derogatory way about restaurants listed in the Michelin gui8de, as if were are all pretentious places putting down parades of tweezer-tweaked dishes.
I had gone back and forth about ordering their suckling pig, Cantonese style, but the kitchen could not divide this into a half order, so I passed, intending to return later in the week if I could find a free time slot. This obsession with the pig would eventually cost me very dearly........
My bill
View of one half of dining area from my bar seat
A la carte menu. There are also two tasting options.
One tip I can offer is that Barcelona is a casual dining city. You will see diners in (clean) sneakers and (stylish) jeans even in the multi-starred Michelin restaurants. People make an effort, but anyone who blings it up would look a bit out of place. So leave those glittery dresses and stilettos at home unless. you are planning to go clubbing, a subject I can tell you nothing about.
I took with me this time three pairs of well-fitting jeans--black, white and denim--plus. pair of black leggings. One pair black Arche sandals, one pair each white and black leather sneakers with side zippers, one pair of black clogs....
One denim "chore coat' (Uniqlo); my trusty white Costco rain coat, and my black medium weight Zara short jacket with quilting on the torso and elastic on the arms.....(I bought this in Zara Santiago and I saw it last week at the big Zara on Gracia.......so light, it wadded it up into my backpack for the plane ride....
I love this jacket!!!
So far, I've worn a tiny portion of what I brought, as usual, but I did better weeding out superfluous stuff this time....
While the wireless is still working, I will comment on shopping in case one person is interested!!
You can find all the big chains win Barcelona, along with a giant El Corte Ingles with a Club de Gourmets food section and a supermarket, in the basement.
If you do your research, you can also find some impeccable bespoke makers of clothing and shoes, tucked away from the main drags.....one of these was the eyewear shop I mentioned before.
My two non-food purchases took place in the two shops that I never fail to visit when In spain:
COS....stellar for t-shirts. Think James Perse at a quarter of the price. (Bought two @ less than 20 euro each)
ZARA...my mainstay. My suitcase arrived stocked with lots of Zara, and it will return home with a few more of their great cotton t-shirts, available in so many styles and colors. If the quality is not up to that ooo COS (the "luxe" member of the H&M chain) it's still remarkable good for the price..usually under 12 euro for a cotton t-shirt, often less than that...
I took with me this time three pairs of well-fitting jeans--black, white and denim--plus. pair of black leggings. One pair black Arche sandals, one pair each white and black leather sneakers with side zippers, one pair of black clogs....
One denim "chore coat' (Uniqlo); my trusty white Costco rain coat, and my black medium weight Zara short jacket with quilting on the torso and elastic on the arms.....(I bought this in Zara Santiago and I saw it last week at the big Zara on Gracia.......so light, it wadded it up into my backpack for the plane ride....
I love this jacket!!!
So far, I've worn a tiny portion of what I brought, as usual, but I did better weeding out superfluous stuff this time....
While the wireless is still working, I will comment on shopping in case one person is interested!!
You can find all the big chains win Barcelona, along with a giant El Corte Ingles with a Club de Gourmets food section and a supermarket, in the basement.
If you do your research, you can also find some impeccable bespoke makers of clothing and shoes, tucked away from the main drags.....one of these was the eyewear shop I mentioned before.
My two non-food purchases took place in the two shops that I never fail to visit when In spain:
COS....stellar for t-shirts. Think James Perse at a quarter of the price. (Bought two @ less than 20 euro each)
ZARA...my mainstay. My suitcase arrived stocked with lots of Zara, and it will return home with a few more of their great cotton t-shirts, available in so many styles and colors. If the quality is not up to that ooo COS (the "luxe" member of the H&M chain) it's still remarkable good for the price..usually under 12 euro for a cotton t-shirt, often less than that...
Here is the food report I wrote, with photos, about my six nights in Barcelona; I would have liked to post this all here, but it's too cumbersome for me now to post photos on this forum since I have to toggle between the phone and the laptop, and the wireless here in Vejer is spotty...
https://www.hungryonion.org/t/barcel...hts-3-26/47106
I enjoyed every restaurant I visited but the most memorable meals for me were the two lunches I had at ULTRAMARINOS MARIN.
This is a seafood-centric grill restaurant where the focus is on the product, with little embellishment. (The small embellishments added by the chef, such as a touch of garum squirted onto the sea urchin, were pure genius. Their ailioli was the stuff of wonders...I guess you understand that I loved this restaurant. I had some doubt if I would be able to go, because their online booking page did not allow for a single diner...... But I wrote a "comment" on the booking form that I was only one diner, and I phoned them once I arrived in Barcelona to make sure that this was ok (and that I would not be penalized for showing up alone)
There are a few things you ought to consider, especially if you don't have much experience with dining in Spanish bars.
The menu here is only in Catalan and servers, while helpful, are rushing around filling orders and are not going to hold your hand and explain every single menu item. Trying to translate food with a translation app was problematic....many items wrecked listed not only in Catla, but in a word local to a certain region within Catalunya...
The place is noisy and chaotic..lots of rushing back and forth, chef yelling out orders, etc.
There are no backs on the bar seats. There is a quiet dining area next to the grill used for meats, in the rear......that might be an option for a group who want to sit together. There are also a few small tables in the front bar area.....
The crowd seemed to be largely locals, with a few foreigners who lived in the city. It's not convenient to any major sights, although the walk from my hotel near Casa Battló took only about 25 minutes.
They often run out of dishes early into service, so book early wifi you have your heart set on sea urchins--for example.
The menu changes daily depending on what's available at the lonja or in the markets.......they are closed Sundays and Mondays and, from what I just learned, you do not want to plan on eating a particular seafood item on those days anyway.....save your seafood meals for later in the week.....
Having said all that, I absolutely loved this restaurant and the price/value ratio was exceptional. They also have a sandwich shop, with a few food items and sweets to take out.....I bought a t-shirt!!!
NOW FOR THE LESS-THAN-GOOD NEWS:
Having my second lunch at MARIN proved to be extremely costly through no fault of the restaurant.
The fault was entirely mine and I will relate the tale as a warning.
My first night in the city, I had a great dinner at MONT BAR. I was too full to order the suckling pig "Cantonese style," (they could not do a half order of this dish) so I told the staff I'd try to return later during my stay. During the next day or two, I kept salivating thinking of that baby pig dish at MONT BAR.
I almost never book both lunch and dinner on the same day--I don't have the capacity (full disclosure, I have been taking a GLP1 medicine for about three years now) but I decided to jump in and return for that pig for Tuesday lunch. (I had a table booked at PUR for Tuesday night, so planned to order only the one lunch dish..the pig; not available in a half order, the price is 55 euro.)
So on Friday night, I booked lunch on the online booking page of MONT BAR, giving my credit card details and phone number, as is the norm these days.
I had that outstanding lunch at MARIN on the following Saturday afternoon, before the opera.
Before I was finished with my meal, I knew that I had to come back here once more while in the city., Problem was that they were closed on Sunday and Mondays, and I was leaving on Wednesday. So Tuesday lunch was the only slot I had remaining and I had already booked MONT BAR.
Ok, no problem, right?? I booked MONT BAR on Friday, today was Saturday. I think/obsess about this a bit more, and on Sunday, I cancel my booking at MONT BAR (two days ahead of the intended reservation) and make one, instead, at MARIN for Tuesday afternoon. (Decide to go for more sea urchin instead of the Cantonese suckling pig).
Late Sunday night, a few hours after I had canceled my Tuesday lunch spot, I receive an e-mail from MONT BAR, letting me know that because I had canceled less than 72 hours before my reservation, they would be charging me 190 euro. (Keep in mind that, my bill for my first dinner there had been 73 euro)
I apologized, I explained in a long e-mail, the hotel concierge offered to plead for me; he tphoned and told them I was feeling ill, I was a VIP guest---he did his best to embellish my case.....all to no avail.
You'll all be saying that this was my fault and of course it was!!! I failed to read the fine print saying that THREE DAYS---72 hours--advance notice was required for no-fee cancellation. I have never encountered a three-day-out cancellation limit. I should have been more careful. But what got me was the 190 euro charge, when all I had planned to eat was that 55 euro pig and maybe another tsp or two......I can count on one hand the times I've paid anything close to 190 euro for any meal in Europe....(topic for another discussion...)
So I felt that was a little stringent, but they maintained that the cost of a tasting was 190e and so that was the amount I would be charged.
I'm not intending this to read like. rant or even a complaint.
. It was a costly mistake that I have to own.
I told my partner and he suggested taking this up with Amex, the card I use for bookings in Spain. (For bookings, but not to pay) But I don't think I will do that. I failed to adhere to the three-day-out policy. The restaurant could have given me a break, given that I was not going to order the tasting and they were aware of that. And I have no doubt that they filled my seat at the bar that afternoon---the place is very much in demand, especially after recently being awarded their second Michelin star.
In the end, I made a mistake. They could have leaned a little in favor of a repeat client (and I had had a long discussion with the manager the night I ate there, and laid out my plan to him about returning of the pig..). But the higher-ups did not choose to do that.....policy and all......
MONT BAR is lovely and I'd highly recommend if that's the type of small, elegant-but-casual restaurant you enjoy.
I'm only relaying this tale to remind people to pay more attention than I did to the conditions when you book directly online.
Just about every restaurant in Barcelona (and Madrid, and Sevilla) required a credit car guarantee to reserve. (That's now become the norm even in places much further off the tourist track, like Vejer, where I am now..the problem of no shows has really impacted the bottom line of restaurants the world over....
Just be more carful than I was!!!
MONT BAR..
https://montbar.com/en/
Book well in advance....weeks ahead in seasons of high tourism.
https://www.hungryonion.org/t/barcel...hts-3-26/47106
I enjoyed every restaurant I visited but the most memorable meals for me were the two lunches I had at ULTRAMARINOS MARIN.
This is a seafood-centric grill restaurant where the focus is on the product, with little embellishment. (The small embellishments added by the chef, such as a touch of garum squirted onto the sea urchin, were pure genius. Their ailioli was the stuff of wonders...I guess you understand that I loved this restaurant. I had some doubt if I would be able to go, because their online booking page did not allow for a single diner...... But I wrote a "comment" on the booking form that I was only one diner, and I phoned them once I arrived in Barcelona to make sure that this was ok (and that I would not be penalized for showing up alone)
There are a few things you ought to consider, especially if you don't have much experience with dining in Spanish bars.
The menu here is only in Catalan and servers, while helpful, are rushing around filling orders and are not going to hold your hand and explain every single menu item. Trying to translate food with a translation app was problematic....many items wrecked listed not only in Catla, but in a word local to a certain region within Catalunya...
The place is noisy and chaotic..lots of rushing back and forth, chef yelling out orders, etc.
There are no backs on the bar seats. There is a quiet dining area next to the grill used for meats, in the rear......that might be an option for a group who want to sit together. There are also a few small tables in the front bar area.....
The crowd seemed to be largely locals, with a few foreigners who lived in the city. It's not convenient to any major sights, although the walk from my hotel near Casa Battló took only about 25 minutes.
They often run out of dishes early into service, so book early wifi you have your heart set on sea urchins--for example.
The menu changes daily depending on what's available at the lonja or in the markets.......they are closed Sundays and Mondays and, from what I just learned, you do not want to plan on eating a particular seafood item on those days anyway.....save your seafood meals for later in the week.....
Having said all that, I absolutely loved this restaurant and the price/value ratio was exceptional. They also have a sandwich shop, with a few food items and sweets to take out.....I bought a t-shirt!!!
NOW FOR THE LESS-THAN-GOOD NEWS:
Having my second lunch at MARIN proved to be extremely costly through no fault of the restaurant.
The fault was entirely mine and I will relate the tale as a warning.
My first night in the city, I had a great dinner at MONT BAR. I was too full to order the suckling pig "Cantonese style," (they could not do a half order of this dish) so I told the staff I'd try to return later during my stay. During the next day or two, I kept salivating thinking of that baby pig dish at MONT BAR.
I almost never book both lunch and dinner on the same day--I don't have the capacity (full disclosure, I have been taking a GLP1 medicine for about three years now) but I decided to jump in and return for that pig for Tuesday lunch. (I had a table booked at PUR for Tuesday night, so planned to order only the one lunch dish..the pig; not available in a half order, the price is 55 euro.)
So on Friday night, I booked lunch on the online booking page of MONT BAR, giving my credit card details and phone number, as is the norm these days.
I had that outstanding lunch at MARIN on the following Saturday afternoon, before the opera.
Before I was finished with my meal, I knew that I had to come back here once more while in the city., Problem was that they were closed on Sunday and Mondays, and I was leaving on Wednesday. So Tuesday lunch was the only slot I had remaining and I had already booked MONT BAR.
Ok, no problem, right?? I booked MONT BAR on Friday, today was Saturday. I think/obsess about this a bit more, and on Sunday, I cancel my booking at MONT BAR (two days ahead of the intended reservation) and make one, instead, at MARIN for Tuesday afternoon. (Decide to go for more sea urchin instead of the Cantonese suckling pig).
Late Sunday night, a few hours after I had canceled my Tuesday lunch spot, I receive an e-mail from MONT BAR, letting me know that because I had canceled less than 72 hours before my reservation, they would be charging me 190 euro. (Keep in mind that, my bill for my first dinner there had been 73 euro)
I apologized, I explained in a long e-mail, the hotel concierge offered to plead for me; he tphoned and told them I was feeling ill, I was a VIP guest---he did his best to embellish my case.....all to no avail.
You'll all be saying that this was my fault and of course it was!!! I failed to read the fine print saying that THREE DAYS---72 hours--advance notice was required for no-fee cancellation. I have never encountered a three-day-out cancellation limit. I should have been more careful. But what got me was the 190 euro charge, when all I had planned to eat was that 55 euro pig and maybe another tsp or two......I can count on one hand the times I've paid anything close to 190 euro for any meal in Europe....(topic for another discussion...)
So I felt that was a little stringent, but they maintained that the cost of a tasting was 190e and so that was the amount I would be charged.
I'm not intending this to read like. rant or even a complaint.
. It was a costly mistake that I have to own.
I told my partner and he suggested taking this up with Amex, the card I use for bookings in Spain. (For bookings, but not to pay) But I don't think I will do that. I failed to adhere to the three-day-out policy. The restaurant could have given me a break, given that I was not going to order the tasting and they were aware of that. And I have no doubt that they filled my seat at the bar that afternoon---the place is very much in demand, especially after recently being awarded their second Michelin star.
In the end, I made a mistake. They could have leaned a little in favor of a repeat client (and I had had a long discussion with the manager the night I ate there, and laid out my plan to him about returning of the pig..). But the higher-ups did not choose to do that.....policy and all......
MONT BAR is lovely and I'd highly recommend if that's the type of small, elegant-but-casual restaurant you enjoy.
I'm only relaying this tale to remind people to pay more attention than I did to the conditions when you book directly online.
Just about every restaurant in Barcelona (and Madrid, and Sevilla) required a credit car guarantee to reserve. (That's now become the norm even in places much further off the tourist track, like Vejer, where I am now..the problem of no shows has really impacted the bottom line of restaurants the world over....
Just be more carful than I was!!!
MONT BAR..
https://montbar.com/en/
Book well in advance....weeks ahead in seasons of high tourism.
