Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Northwestern Switzerland Fall 2014

Search

Northwestern Switzerland Fall 2014

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 25th, 2015, 03:57 AM
  #21  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
During my 90 minute UNEVENTFUL trip home from Romont, I even had time in Bern station to buy a Fleischkaese Salat and cheese pretzel (6.80 each) from the wonderful Migros TakeAway for supper.
Stopped at the Coop for a few provisions, to include knockoff espresso pods for the machine in my apartment (loving those sweet strong morning espressos!)
I ate 'in' appreciating the evening town traffic from my expansive windows.

Tomorrow is the annual fall Alpabfahrt (cows coming home from the high alps festival) in Schuepfheim!!!!
mokka4 is offline  
Old Feb 25th, 2015, 04:44 AM
  #22  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Slept well. After a quick breakfast of jam bread and Nespresso, I started for Schuepfheim (1hr42min and 35 CHF). Upon changing in Bern, the regional train became very
crowded with like-minded festival-goers!
Upon disembarking at the Schuepfheim Bahnhof, we were greeted by a group of ten or so traditionally dressed Alpenhorn blowers. We stopped to enjoy the haunting melody in the glorious morning sun....

The main street leading to town was lined with waiting spectators. I found a spot to sit on a low brick wall...
There was a SLOW procession of many choral and yodeling groups, children doing old-time dances, Bernese dogs, and then...plodding flower-bedecked cows and children driving goats from the surrounding farms!

Overall, the event was more crowded than Lenk's event last year...more touristy..though for Europeans (I heard no English all day.)
Most booths were serving food and drink with beer doing a brisk business ;-) . Very few crafts for sale.

I bought a small wooden commemorative pin (5 CHF), Wurst MIT Brot (6) and Bier (4), before settling on the church steps above the main street to finish watching the parade. Sunny again...what luck with the weather!

Visited the town church, lit a candle, walked through its attached cemetary, so neat and well-tended.
As the procession ended, traffic began to creep along main street again and I headed back to the train station.
I noticed a Denner Satellit (like a Co-Go or Quik-Stop) open and I was thirsty! YES! I scored a cold and delicious can of Panache for only 70 Rappen! I can't recall paying less than a franc for ANYTHING in Switzerland! (Ok, the 'bathroom coin' is 50 Rp...)
For those asking, what is a Panache?--half beer half sprite-like soda~~refreshing!
mokka4 is offline  
Old Feb 25th, 2015, 12:21 PM
  #23  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
On the way home, the town of Langnau looks promising for a home village next year.
We passed nearby Trubschachen im Emmental, with its Kambly Biscuit plant..tours of this well-known-in-Europe-biscuit available. People got on the train absolutely LOADED with purchases! I HAVE tried the Kambly peanut butter with crunchy bits of biscuit at home-yum!

Tonight, I want to try the mysterious, and previously banned Absinthe! There is an Absinthe bar named Die Gruene Fee (The Green Fairy) just half a block away from my apartment. I had researched the elaborate serving ritual associated with this liquor, made from wormwood and anise (and very potent) before leaving the US. Google it! There was at least one murder scandal and general licentiousness associated with it in the 1920s, and a culture of forbidden and secretive euphoria prompted underground production. Switzerland voted to ban absinthe in 1908, the US and France did so as well.
The ban was only overturned in 2005! Yes! Let me have some please!

Well for 9 CHF, my curiosity was satisfied. The clear liquor is served in a special glass, along with an ice fountain-type of water dispenser. A fancy fenestrated trough is laid across the glass, and a cube of sugar placed below a steady drip of icy water, causing it to melt into the liquor, and clouding of the drink occurs.....
Can you say putrid? It tasted like burnt rubber, no matter how dilute I made it! Could NOT choke it down! Most definitely an acquired taste.
mokka4 is offline  
Old Feb 25th, 2015, 12:31 PM
  #24  
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,711
Received 19 Likes on 4 Posts
Lovely reporting, thank you.
Adelaidean is online now  
Old Feb 27th, 2015, 10:18 AM
  #25  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Still early in the evening, sun setting, but not cold. Now I'm in search of dinner.
Stopped at PostFinanz ATM to withdraw CHFs.
Checked popular Zum Alten Stephan, but too $$ for me (most dinners > 40 CHF).
Its a funny time of year for outside meals...widely popular at lunch, tables/chairs still out for dinner, but sparse diners al fresco.

I settled on Restaurant du Commerce and was the only outside diner in the warm evening air!
The owner herself tended to me...we spoke for a bit. She was very pleasant, offering insight on some of the small area towns. Surprised that I knew enough about Switzerland to choose Solothurn as my base!
I enjoyed vegetarian Spaetzlipfanne (15) and a large beer(6). A very good dish of spaetzle (noodle)dumplings) with vegetables in a light broth and just a sprinkle of cheese on top. Baked in a cast iron skillet. Not swimming in butter as usually prepared. Ended with an Oetterlich coffee-so good!

Meandered a bit more, still looking for a pair of earrings to buy. Found a confiserie that's open tomorrow (Sunday)...wow!

Most shops open Monday at 9 a.m. I'm still not sure when I'm leaving for Luzern...hoping I can leave my luggage at the FeWo and shop a little more before departing Solothurn?
mokka4 is offline  
Old Feb 27th, 2015, 11:07 AM
  #26  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sunday September 28~~
My goal today: Biel and Le Landeron, where my landlady had made me aware of a Antique & Flea Market going on!

After a breakfast of a chocolate and nut-studded roll
plus my beloved Nespresso, I was on my way 9:28-->9:45 Biel
9:52-->10:09 Le Landeron (8.90 CHF). Morning fog later
burned off.

Don't you know, of all days, there was a delay in the first train due to some sort of "incident" on the tracks, causing me to miss the connection to LL . The next regional train was due in one hour. This would make me too late to catch the last boat from Biel to Solothurn (reduced Autumn schedule in effect). Aargh! I would have to choose. I chose Biel.

Being a Sunday, few people were about, but that didn't matter. I wanted to see the Altstadt.

I saw what appeared to be a city tour and kind of followed it to the Altstadt/Ring, then I was eager for the group to get ahead of me, so as not to spoil my photos!
The Altstadt was well-defined, with signs hanging above entrances at various sides. Nidaugasse was the portal into the pedestian-only zone, with the Rathaus (1530-34) and Justice Fountain (1714).
mokka4 is offline  
Old Feb 28th, 2015, 04:40 AM
  #27  
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 626
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Following along - thanks so much for posting this. Hope the recuperation from orthopaedic surgery is going splendidly! Can't wait for your report on Luzern.
kovsie is offline  
Old Feb 28th, 2015, 10:19 AM
  #28  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks kovsie..2 more weeks on crutches!

I located the Basel tower at one end of the old city, then the Ring, with 15th C. Stadtkirche (church), the Alte Krone, where Goethe once stayed, and the much anticipated 16th C. Engelbrunnen (angel fountain).
Such a peaceful square, shaded by tall chestnut trees, dropping their fruits all along the cobblestones (no wonder so many towns were offering roasted chestnuts!)
Of course, the fountain has been preserved/restored...a colorful angel holds a sheep protectively in her arms while a grotesque green devil figure sidles up the back of her.

I meandered down a few more side alleyways, marveling at the densely packed 5-storey buildings, often displaying balconies with ornate iron railings...and envying the owners!

This being a Sunday, no stores were open, but a few cafes were.
I settled on Restaurant Pfauen..a bird...I searched my memory for the right one...then the menu depicting a Peacock solved the mystery. Duh, I should have remembered!
Kuerbis-Tortelli (pumpkin tortellini on fresh tomato puree)+ Panache (note a trend here?) for 21.50 CHF, enjoyed in the warm, dare I say, hot, sun while a dog and a toddler cavorted about!
mokka4 is offline  
Old Feb 28th, 2015, 10:38 AM
  #29  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
After leaving the delightful old town, I worked my way slowly along the Quai (canal) which picturesquely bisects the modern city, to the mouth, or harbor.
Now, MANY people were strolling in the sunshine.
I bought the ticket for my ship (29 CHF one way), and laid on a bench in the sun dozing. I think I got more Swiss suntan than I did all summer!

A VERY slow boat ride home--enforced relaxation at 2hours 45 minutes--okay, I was maybe expecting a little more in the way of scenery...mostly flat as I could see.
Went through a lock/dam, which certainly excited the menfolk aboard for several minutes - exclaiming about the modern technology!
There was a choral group in black and red Tracht aboard with beautiful serenades at times!
Docked at a new shore in Solothurn, where I discovered the Westbahnhof.

Back at the apartment I rang my landlady Penny, who lived on the upper floors with her husband. Their spacious quarters were bright and modern with several original brick and wood elements exposed. Both she and her husband are artists- she paints and he works with wood sculptures. Very classy living space.
Penny assured me that I could leave my luggage in the apartment until I was ready to leave the next day.
My plan was to eat breakfast at Cafe Suteria, then shop, especially for earrings!
mokka4 is offline  
Old Feb 28th, 2015, 10:56 AM
  #30  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Monday, September 29~~
After breakfast of Milchkaffee (latte) and almond croissant, I wandered back to Mueller & Ruchti Jewelers, to purchase Pfalzer Ohrringe- a drop earring with clear yellow stone..not so expensive at 105 CHF...my ears feel "right" again (I had forgotten earings at home).

At the Manor Department store I found short brown cashmere socks, and headed upstairs to the self-serve cafeteria for a middle-sized salad and bottle of water (11.90 CHF).
At Buchhaus Luthy, I purchased two small dayplanners. A box of ginger-lemon tea and another 4 pack of truffles rounded out the shopping.
Leaving my apartment, I cannot believe a whole week has already passed!

13:01-->14:05 to Luzern with change in Olten (15.50).
Hotel Ameron Flora on Seidenhofstrasse was close to the Bahnhof, not so expensive, and easy to find (my criteria)
mokka4 is offline  
Old Mar 1st, 2015, 07:27 AM
  #31  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Upon checkin, I was told that I had been upgraded to a Doppelzimmer MIT Balkon! Joy, mixed with trepidation...

I had researched this hotel extensively before booking, and knew that they served several tour companies as they passed through town, so the mix of languages, yes, a fair amount of English, heard at breakfast was not unexpected. It also boasted a popular nightclub, open till 3 a.m. on weekends, but I never heard a peep.

Sixth floor room was modern, spacious, with an art deco mounted white dear head, a large bathroom, and a sliver of balcony overlooking the courtyard and distant rooftops.

Freshened up, texted, logged onto Internet (free access) and picked up the guestcard at the reception desk. Out to find the very nearby art museum Sammlung Rosengart, a rare museum open on Monday.
Entrance 18 CHF (2 F reduction with card).

Extensive collection of Picassos and many Klees (more than last year in Bern's PKZ).
Funny, although many of Klee's works foreshadowed events to come with Jews, the museum's English explanations made NO reference to this...

Walked the short distance to Jesuitenkirche, but a mass was going on, so I respectfully peeked through the grate and didn't wander in.
Used my from-home map to wander along the river down to the less-famous Spreuerbruecke, past the water diversion system (Nadelwehr), and over the bridge to Muehlenplatz, home of many outdoor, less-expensive restaurants. English/tourists all around!
I have been to Luzern at least 6x before, so just a few pictures of fountains and painted houses were taken.

In search of a dinner spot along the many busy river cafes.
A table cleared at Hotel des Alpes, & I jumped on it! (This had been my first hotel choice, but all single rooms were booked.)
Delicious meal of Aeplermagronen (23) and a large Bier (6.70). Pasta and potatoes in a cheese sauce with crispy fried onions on top with a side apple puree...mmmmmm!
Unfortunately, Pickwick's Bar was just next door, so I was treated to a parade of college-aged Americans, all enjoying their familiar burgers and fries...?

Lovely photos of the bridge at dusk. So MANY Asian tourists taking selfies here...abrasive behavior.

Back at the hotel, I discovered baby ants on the floor near the balcony AND all over the desk!!Ughhhh!
Reception sent a fellow to vacuum, but we couldn't identify a source. They said they had no room to switch me to...They laid a tin bait trap, and as I feared, ants swarmed on the desk overnight! Reception never DID apologize or offer a discount or a 'free' benefit, but thankfully, ants were never seen again after that night and never reached the bed. It was an odd event, because really, the room appeared to be sparkling clean, but I dared never use the Nespresso machine on the desk.. .
mokka4 is offline  
Old Mar 3rd, 2015, 10:38 AM
  #32  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I had slept poorly, worrying about the scurrying ants, not well-rested!
Politely complained to reception desk...they would "look into it"...I didn't hold my breath.

I had planned to hike these last two days, regardless of weather. Fingers crossed.

Buffet breakfast with a lot of American options (bacon, toast). Swiss/Germans eating rolls with butter/jam or cheese, muesli, yogurt...me too! Hot chocolate, lattes, coffee.

To the train station TI. Staff gave much nicer advice when I spoke in German ;-). Weather forecast iffy. I wanted to take the ship to Weggis, get the Seilbahn up to Rigi Kaltbad, then hike to Kloesterli to see the pilgrimage chapel (1689) with its famous altarpiece "Maria of the Snow".
mokka4 is offline  
Old Mar 3rd, 2015, 11:16 AM
  #33  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Already drizzling enough to warrant the umbrella as I left the TI .
Ship Luzern-->Weggis 10:12-10:53 (9.40 CHF one way). Because it was raining, the inside cabin was packed. I enjoyed a Rivella rot (normal)...the carbonated milk serum drink of Switzerland!
When we reached Weggis, I was the only one who opted for the uphill trek through town to the Rigibahn (wimps!)

The 11:20 gondola (15 CHF one way) was standing room only!
Got off at Rigi Kaltbad and climbed the series of interior concrete steps. Found a covered bench to cool off and ponder whether the hiking path would be safe in the rain. The local TI assured me that the path was 'mostly' level...
Kaltbad 1420 meters
First 1450 meters
Kloesterli 1300 meters. Off I went.

The hike was listed at 2.2 km, 30-40 minutes and easy grade. I had hiked this portion before, but from the opposite direction. I left the bustle of Kaltbad behind me. At First, the gravel path began to slope downward, and signs for the rustic alpine inn, Heiri-Huette, appeared. This was my lunch destination!
I followed a family who had also been hiking (with Grandpa) inside.
I enjoyed an Alpenbier made in Einsiedeln (4.50) and 2 Schweinwuerstli mit Pommes Frites (small pork sausage with French fries) for 13 CHF.
Really good, wish I had room for the homemade fruit Kuchen!
The very few other diners glanced at me sidelong, wondering what the heck this foreigner was doing here! I told the waitress that I had read about this inn online in the US..she seemed incredulous !

Then, it was more downhill and even steeper to the chapel itself. Path partly forested, with foggy farm fields at other times. Though dreary, the rain largely had let up.
Kloesterli chapel was a 300+ year old small baroque building, filled with testimonials from individuals who believed their prayers were answered after Mary's intercession. They ranged over 200 years- up to current times!

After a pause, I climbed the short distance to the Rigi-Kloesterli station, and caught the next rack train down to Arth-Goldau at 14:18 (15chf). Now it was pouring outside and sharply colder, fogging up the windows. It was easy working my way back to the Bahnhof from the Rigi trailer, as I had hiked in the vicinity two years ago...
Back in Luzern, I picked up a Bachmann's coffee and Linzertoertli for a snack..mmmm.
mokka4 is offline  
Old Mar 4th, 2015, 12:30 AM
  #34  
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,711
Received 19 Likes on 4 Posts
Enjoying
Adelaidean is online now  
Old Mar 4th, 2015, 07:34 AM
  #35  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks Adelaidean! I love reliving my trip, even though it doesn't get many reads ;-).
Is it the unknown geographic area or poor writing style? Or both!?

Next to last evening in Switzerland, light rain persisted. Wandered about the old town, looking for a likely dinner target. I HAD hoped for an inexpensive cafeteria meal at Manora department store, but they closed at 6:30...and stopped serving even earlier.

I strolled along MY side of the Reuss River, until I reached NIX in der Laterne restaurant near the Nadelwehr.
Upscale Italian, with many tables reserved for later.
They had made-to-order Flammkuchen~I can't get enough of the crispy flatbread type of 'pizza.'
Mine had Quark (sort of sour cream/cream cheese), grilled onions, stinky cheese, and Speck + a Hubertus dark Bier (23.40 CHF). Delicious!

Still gently drizzling as I strolled through town. Then, I found my Holy Grail, and it was still open...Oh Joy!!!
mokka4 is offline  
Old Mar 4th, 2015, 07:52 AM
  #36  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
A BIG, Fancy NESPRESSO store
with George Clooney advertising! Inside so sleek, modern...with extensive glass display cases of the multitude of fabulous Nespresso capsules, arranged by color/intensity/country of bean origin...as though they were expensive jewels. And the fashionable young clerks!

I was invited to a counter to taste-test the newest, most robust blend (13 rating). The precious 1.5 ounces was savored...

I had bought a rather basic Nespresso machine for myself Christmas 2013, after tasting
this lovely espresso in my Bern apartment. I had set up corner of my desk with a beautiful set of hand-painted yellow floral espresso cups and saucers to enjoy. But, the only source to buy the capsules was online, and a bit expensive. What did THIS store charge?

Joy! How reasonably priced! A sleeve of ten just 5.70 CHF!
But, because I purchased sleeves of caramel, and chocolate, I was exposed as a less than hardcore espresso junkie ;-)).
mokka4 is offline  
Old Mar 4th, 2015, 05:25 PM
  #37  
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,262
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hello, I am really enjoying your report. I have never been to Switzerland but it is on my list. Hope your capsules made it home safe. ��
Paqngo is offline  
Old Mar 4th, 2015, 07:04 PM
  #38  
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 4,288
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Most Swiss cities have a Nespresso store. Basel has two big ones and the one by Schifflande serves free espressos in the back all day long. A good place to get a quick caffeine jolt if you need one while in town. https://www.nespresso.com/ch/en/pages/store-locator

On the drive from Geneva to Basel, you pass a Nespresso plant. You can smell the coffee before you get there. Oddly enough, there's a herd of buffalo in the field next door. Maybe George likes buffalo steaks ;-)

We have an Illy machine, so get our capsules (sold under the Amici label in Switzerland) from Globus.
WeisserTee is online now  
Old Mar 5th, 2015, 12:33 AM
  #39  
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 10,881
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Rigi: Heiri Hütte! Good on ya!
kleeblatt is offline  
Old Mar 5th, 2015, 07:38 AM
  #40  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for reading along!
I texted my sister that I had just joined George for an espresso, when she answered, "Did his new wife join you?!" Wwhhaatt??? Turns out Mr. Clooney had just married a day or two before ~~ cruel reality!

I walked through Luzern after dark, heading back at Schwanenplatz...OMG! 8 pm and rows of tour buses idling while hundreds (not exaggerating) of Asian tourists were frenziedly running from store to store, shopping for jewelry in the high-end shops...Ugly Free Market/Pursuit of the Franc
.
mokka4 is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -