whitehall

This report is part of 37 days we spent in Europe (Greece, Italy, Montenegro, Croatia and Bosnia between September 5-October 12). We initially booked, with credit card miles, flights in and out of Athens without any fixed itinerary. Then, we were invited to a family grape harvest in Sicily. Eventually, Athens airport became our base, and we went through there seven times. This created an opportunity for multiple distinct trips. This is one of them.



Korcula Island


We spent three nights on Korcula island, five nights in Split and our final night in Dubrovnik to be closer to the airport for our return to Athens. (Our Korcula time was originally four nights, but we moved one of those nights to Mostar, Bosnia, and think we will do a simple separate 24 hours in Mostar and Bosnia report later.)

This report will include Cavtat, Korcula, Split, Zadar, Trogir, Makarska, Brac, Hvar and Dubrovnik and will be heavy on photos.

whitehall

After several days of warm sunshine, our drive from Montenegro to Croatia brought some showers. We took a detour into Cavtat. Ironically, one of the magnets for our next several nights in Korcula was seeing the dynastic family yacht parked in the HBO series Succession. We stopped in Cavtat for a little breakfast (strudel and oj), but discovered later that its small yacht harbor doubled for Korcula for the scene that initially made us want to go to Korcula.

Yachts like the one in the HBO series can pull right up to the shaded palm-lined promenade that leads to a path that circles around Cavtat’s peninsula.

We also got a peek at the large James Bond themed yacht, Spectre, that we would see again a couple more times on this trip. (Dubrovnik shortly after and then 11 days later in Sicily). In Ortigia, Sicily, we also spotted its billionaire owner, Rob Sands, whose liquor company owns such brands as Mondavi wines and beers like Corona’s US rights.

The light drizzle allowed us to have the scenic peninsular path to ourselves, but beach chairs and a massage table were signs of activity there when the skies cleared.

TPAYT

Looking forward to more. We are headed to Croatia Sept.2023.
Also just started reading “ The Olive Grove” by Eva Glyn
which takes place o Korcula so interested in your description.

Adelaidean

I’m in!

whitehall

Our drive from Montenegro along Croatia’s coast gave us only an initial glimpse of its 3600 mile coastline and the islands offshore. We started the trip with some rain and drizzle that quickly returned to the same sun we enjoyed for our prior four days in Montenegro. The roads sometimes run atop the limestone cliffs that rise up on this part of the Dalmatian coast, and from there, we got another aerial view of the Dubrovnik fortress and the cruise ships arriving there for the day.

Before the sun popped back out, the wettest part of the drive occurred while we were going by a large ancient fortress. When we left Montenegro, it was so quiet the border guard had to run to his booth from a large building to wait on us. So, we were surprised to see umbrella carrying crowds and buses at this out of the way fort in a tiny village called Ston. From the fort complex going up a small mountain, we could see what looked like the Great Wall. We made a mental note to put this place on our list for next time. Our only stops along the way were a war memorial, with a magnificent view of the sea, and a couple of other breathtaking spots.

Our final mainland destination was Orebic and its small ferry port. There are so many ferries each day from there to Korcula, we bought our tickets and literally drove onto the boat. The quick 30 minute ferry had lots of excess room for cars, and still had lots of room inside and outside for vacationers to relax.

tripplanner001

Thank you for the beautiful photos. Brings back wonderful memories of our own trip to Croatia a couple of years ago.

whitehall

The ferry from Orebic comes into Korcula Town, the most prominent village on Korcula island. From Split, ferries come into Vela Luka at the western end of the island, some 30 miles away.

Korcula Town has its peninsular fortified old city, several harbors, including the one where the ferry lands, as well as some newer areas.

whitehall

TPAYT Your novel gets great reviews. You will enjoy. We found September to be a perfect time of year!
Adelaidean Thanks for reading again.
tripplanner001 Thank you.

whitehall

Although it doesn’t take long to cover the pretty medieval streets and squares, you can circle the old city along a waterfront promenade.

There are some shops and churches within the walls, but the biggest attraction are the many restaurants, especially the ones lining the promenade. Some additional restaurants and shops can be found on waterfront esplanades on either side of the old town as well.

KarenWoo

We didn’t visit Korcula; we visited Hvar Town for the day. So it’s nice to see photos of Korcula. It looks lovely.

We stopped in Ston on our way from Dubrovnik to Split, and we had a delicious seafood lunch sitting about a foot from the water. One of the best meals of our trip.

whitehall

We were intrigued by Ston. And, yes we will also went to Hvar Town that we reached from Split on a day trip. The only regret there was not planning better, wishing we had rented a car to also see Stari Grad and Jelsa.

Adelaidean

Lovely! Especially since I’m lying on the couch on a 41C day…

whitehall

For most people Korcula is the old walled city, Korcula Town, sometimes referred to as “Little Durbovnik.”

There is an upper main street that crosses the old city with narrow streets branching off and down the sides.

whitehall

We were overwhelmed with the large number of small cruise ships, some sail, but mostly power, and many that look like billionaire private yachts.

While we no longer are fans of large cruise ships, these beautiful small ships seem like an ideal way to navigate the coast and islands without a car. And, pricing seems comparable to the mega cruise ships we are all familiar with.

One of the nights in Korcula, we counted 21 of these ships all tied together in one of the harbors and some additional sailing ships tied together in a second harbor.

memejs

I am really enjoying these reports from your trip and all of the beautiful photos!

I'm curious to hear from you and others who have been to both Greece and Croatia - which would you choose if you had to prioritize one destination over the other? Both destinations are on my short-list for my 2025 vacation. (Yes, I plan years out!)

whitehall

Thank you. Planning is great and, for us, is half the joy, including the positive anticipation, for each of our travels.

You will love Greece or Croatia, perhaps equally. They both have lots of unspoiled territory, great food, beautiful mountains, islands and seasides. Some say Croatia might be less expensive, but, outside of popular places like Mykonos and Santorini, we found them both inexpensive, as to food and lodging. Croatia felt a lot like we believe Western Europe might have been, before we got to see it the first time. Greece has more historic landmarks, and its food and culture seems more identifiable. Greece's more southerly location affords a longer summer into September and October. It seems easier to island hop in Croatia. And, at least for us, Greece meets all our expectations, but Croatia seemed to have more positive surprises. We simply did not prefer one over the other and are thankful to visit both, and will return to both when the opportunity arises.

whitehall

Montenegro is not a part of the EU, but they use the euro. Croatia has been part of the EU for 10 years or so and just last month started using the euro. It seems some places didn’t accept credit cards while we were there, so we found a need to get the local currency (Kuna) at the ATM machine. I think we brought some home. The coins will be worthless at the end of the year, but the bills can be exchanged after that.

whitehall

We brought our rental car to the island, so we were readily able to tour the entire island. The island itself is relatively large, full of pine groves and largely undeveloped. As I indicated above, it is 30 miles from top to bottom; though it is only about five miles wide. We were quite impressed with the wide, beautiful roads and near zero other traffic. In fact, we could go several miles at a time without passing anyone.

There are scattered small villages inland, but the many coves all around the island host other small villages and enclaves. Besides the heavy forestation, the open fields are full of vineyards and olive trees. Those vineyards support many wine producers, but, generally, their buildings were more functional than touristy.

The drive across the island included some high peaks that rise up to 1800 feet above sea level.

whitehall

Korcula’s second port town, Vela Luka, is at the western or opposite end of the island to Korcula Town. And, at only 200 years old (with the exception of some Cave Man ruins), it is considered much newer than the walled city. Compared to Korcula Town, we saw very few tourists there, and it was very quiet, at least mid-day.

We did not see any obvious signs of the unexpected 1978 tidal wave and tsunami that did widespread damage here. We did notice mosaic tiled sidewalks and other art around town, something that was added after the flooding and devastation by a national arts community that rallied behind the town.

The waters here were crystal clear, even in the harbor. Grapes and pomegranates were in abundance in local yards.

whitehall

We have visited cave dwellings in such places like Matera, Italy, where people lived into the 20th century.

A short walk up a hill from Vera Luka, though, there is a cave, under excavation, that shows signs of cave people that date back to the StoneAge. As in 20,000 years ago.

The cave was first explored about 70 years ago and has revealed things like ceramic figurines of animals from 17,500 BC, but they still haven’t reached the bottom of this cave. They have even discovered remains of cave kids.

The natural light from a collapse at one time in history allows for a clear visit. Although someone was on hand to collect a token entry fee and answer questions, when we arrived, no one else was there. You can drive up there, but the walk up has lots of various native plants with sign boards providing info about them plus great views of Vela Luka and its harbor.