My wife and I are 40-somethings, well educated, U.S. citizens, and fairly well-traveled in North America. But... we're newbies. Never been "overseas." Never been to Europe. Heck, we just discovered this website about a week ago! (A real find, I might add.) We recently had that "what the hell are we waiting for?!" revelation. So, we're planning a 2 or 3 week trip to Italy for late-May to mid-June of 2000. (Along with what seems like half of this forum!) <BR> We'll probably spend most of the time in Tuscany, with maybe a little time in Umbria. There's also a slight possibility we will visit someone on Elba. <BR> Our main interests are good (not necessarily expensive) food and wine; art, history, and culture; nature and rural areas; and getting an authentic sense of the people and their region (as opposed to the tourist version). <BR> I've learned a lot by reading past posts. Of course, I have the usual questions about where to stay, where and what to eat, what to see, what's a waste of time/money, etc. I also have a few more specific questions: <BR>-- What about a tour vs. doing it on our own? Anybody know of tours that would cater to our specific interests? <BR>-- What are the "best" guide books? Which ones are accurate, comprehensive, and honest? <BR>-- What are the "best" Italian language tapes? I'm not a real quick study when it comes to languages, so I guess I'm looking for "basic Italian for idiots." <BR>-- Any suggested reading before we go? I already read "Under the Tuscan Sun" and "Bella Tuscany" (after we decided to go), as well as "Culture Shock! Italy" (very informative). <BR> I have to add that this forum is an incredible resource! Great information provided, usually in a civilized manner (although there are a couple of us who should consider increasing our Prozac dosage). Many thanks to all of you who contribute. Also, thank you Fodors!

Hi Mark, <BR>Books: I am reading Paul Hoffman's "The SEasons of Rome" and "Umbria," and recommend both. It was suggested to me that I read "The FIrst Man in Rome" but I have not yet. <BR> <BR>With study I think you can construct a trip better suited to your interests than any tour could hope to do. Fodor's guides are excellent; I also took a Michelin green guide, and studied an Eyewitness guide which was left at home (too heavy). <BR> <BR>We found and recommend the Hotel delle REgioni in Rome. We pd 270000 lire in May for a triple with bath & a/c. (Via del Tritone, 94 (around the corner on Via Zuchelli; tel 06 483675 or 06 4745858; fax 06 4883300). <BR> <BR>I'm sure you will get many responses. Have fun planning, and have a great trip. <BR>Pam <BR>

My family and I have traveled to Italy several times; each time on our own. It's easy to do with a little planning and practice of basic Italian phrases--such as, "Dove la toilette?" We have taken day tours in other countries, but much prefer being on our own for the freedom to make our own choices about where and when to be at a given location. For tour books the best seem to be Fodor's, Eyewitness, and Rick Steves. Those are our favorites. Another good one is Lonely Planet. We intermix from them all to buy some things cheaply and spend a little more on other things (like a room with its own bath). The history and art in Italy will take your breath away. It's every where and very accessible. You have made good choices on locations to see. More tourists are expected than usual in the year 2000, but they have been gearing up for it. Things will be somewhat more expensive, but no more than you wood pay in large U.S. cities. I used several of the language tape programs, some I found a waste of money. Try your local library. Check them out and see which you like. M. Ham

My family and I have traveled to Italy several times; each time on our own. It's easy to do with a little planning and practice of basic Italian phrases--such as, "Dove la toilette?" We have taken day tours in other countries, but much prefer being on our own for the freedom to make our own choices about where and when to be at a given location. For tour books the best seem to be Fodor's, Eyewitness, and Rick Steves. Those are our favorites. Another good one is Lonely Planet. We intermix from them all to buy some things cheaply and spend a little more on other things (like a room with its own bath). The history and art in Italy will take your breath away. It's every where and very accessible. You have made good choices on locations to see. More tourists are expected than usual in the year 2000, but they have been gearing up for it. Things will be somewhat more expensive, but no more than you would pay in large U.S. cities. I used several of the language tape programs, some I found a waste of money. Try your local library. Check them out and see which you like. M. Ham

The Eyewitness Guides are my favorite. Their illustrations and pictures are just great. Oh yeah, Fodors guides are pretty good too.

Hi, Mark -- you've got a wonderful revelation ahead of you. <BR> <BR>Helpful Hint re:guides -- that many others have suggested elsewhere, but here it is for you now: To cut down on the bulk of the books, select specific sections or pages and (gasp -- this from a reverent bibliophile) tear them out. <BR> <BR>The Eyewitness guides are incredibly helpful and incredibly beautiful but incredibly heavy. They may defy an effort to dissect them, either because of the high quality of the binding or because you can't bear to rip 'em up. I finally gave up and left mine at home for a rich source of reminiscence. <BR> <BR>If you can establish where you'll stay in each town (a good idea for Y2K), then all you need are good guides to the sights and decent lists of restaurants. The latter can certainly be torn out or copied in the smallest font size you can read, coded in your own efficient shorthand. <BR> <BR>Many adult and seasoned travellers would ignore the Harvard Student Agency's Let's Go series, but I like them for off-beat sights and orientation advice. They were particularly helpful in finding cybercafes, which other guidebook writers still haven't realized are essential services for some of us.

1) good idea to start planning now. As a veteran of many trips for 2-11 people, the sooner you start, the better. <BR>2) Italy is a hotbed of art, culture, history, good food, etc. You'll have to work to NOT find everything you like. <BR>3) to get a real feel for a country, rent a house. Since you're planning 2-3 weeks, you could rent a house in Tuscany for a week or two, then do Umbria in small hotels or b&bs. Or viceversa. Or rent two houses, one in Umbria, one in Tuscany. <BR>4) Most of the Fodorites are do-it-yourselfers, as am I. I always feel I can do a better 'tour' myself, with my own timetable and places to stay and eat (many tours use American-like hotels, and restaurants geared for large bus groups). There are several good tour companies (Perillo has been mentioned; so has Rick Steves' tours; Alitalia has a whole slue of 'em) if you don't feel you want to do it on your own. <BR>5) Each guide book gives you something different: Michelin Green guides for detailed info on cities' what-to-sees; Blue Guides for INTENSE cultural info; Fodor's and Frommer's for a good overview, with good hotel and restaurant recommendations; Europe through the Back Door and Let's Go for inexpensive food and lodging recommendations, off-the-beaten path things to see, public transportation info; Insight guides are interesting, but they aren't very user friendly (info is sort of mixed together) but great pictures and descriptions; Lonely Planet sometimes has a negative tone to it, so I only use them as a back-up. Don't waste your money on buying all or any - borrow from your library!!! There are also wonderful "guide books" that are specific to a country, usually written by a native about his/her particular area. Spend a Saturday or two with all those books laid out in front, with index cards - yes, flashback to theses and term papers - and gather info from all of them. Then, pick one or two you like, to buy. <BR>6) Berlitz has a language tape for travelers; can't go wrong with the masters. It comes with a little phrase book, too. In addition, there are these wonderful little books for food - all the words that describe menu and grocery store food. <BR>7) Can't help you with the reading suggestions; I tend to read books about France, not Italy. At the library, too, you can borrow language tapes AND VIDEO TAPES. I love the tourism video tapes; great scenery, and a positive look at the country you're visiting. <BR>8) IMMEDIATELY, write to the Italian Tourism Bureau, and the offices for each province. You will get gorgeous brochures and booklets, great maps, discount offers, calendars of events, etc. Each time you open the mailbox, you get another jolt "hey we're going to Italy!". <BR>

Hi Mark, <BR>My husband and I are leaving on September 25th for a 3 week vacation in Italy. We have been planning this trip for almost a year so it is good that you are starting to gather information now. We found this site absolutely fabulous. We are landing in Milan and renting a car. My husband likes to drive even though we have read on this site that driving in Italy is somewhat hair raising!! We will be doing the lake area first - Bellagio, Sermione, Verona and then to Venice. We are spending the middle week in Tuscanny. We rented a cottage there for one week as a home base and plan to do day trips to the neighboring villages and look forward to seeing the wine vinyards and olive orchards. From there we are headed to Naples, Sorrento, Pompei and Positano to finish our long awaited trip. At first I wanted to go without hotel reservations, my husband was not as adventuresome. In the end, I booked hotels for all but three nights. This forum was extremely helpful with hotel suggestions and websites. Have fun planning and let me know if there is anything I can help you with. I agree, the library is a great source plus we borrowed books from friends. We did purchase Fodor's 99 Italy - chuck full of information. You will get addicted to this site....I did. <BR>Enjoy, <BR>Rose

Mark: Just returned! Tuscany is beautiful and many know our language! If you are into food and wine I have a few suggestions: <BR>"Italy for the Gourmet Traeler" by Fred Plotkin (I agree with the person who didn't want to lug the whole book, I ripped out the chapters that dealt with the areas that I was going to and didn't think twice about doing it! <BR> <BR>Also, The food lovers companion to Tuscany by Carla Capalbo was also great! <BR> <BR>Oz Clark has a good book called, "Oz Clarke's Wine Compainion-Tuscany" <BR> <BR>"Touring in Wine Country - Tuscany" by Maureen Ashley. <BR> <BR>PS--I am a self tour person - it's hard to go wrong! <BR>Enjoy!

Mark: <BR>We just returned from Europe---our first trip and this site really helped me plan our trip. <BR>As to food: We had 1 mediocre meal in San Gimiano. Otherwise, the food was fantastic whether we ate at a pizzaria or at an excellent restaurant. We ate at a wonderful Bottega in Volpia (near Radda) that was excellent. It has been featured in the NY Times and Richard Gere ate there too (as if that matters) They are open only for lunch and the prices are reasonable. You can find them on the Chianti net site. <BR> <BR>As for the language--we purchased "Italian in 10 minutes a day" and I laminated the flash cards and menu cards. We kept them in the car and at stop lights/traffic snarls we would quiz ourselves (or on longer trips, we would quiz each other) Learn the basic Who, What When Where questions, learn how to count, order and make a prenetazione (reservation) and you will get by. We checked out tapes from the library as well to help with pronunciation. <BR> <BR>I agree with Elvira about renting apartments or cottages (or a villa---what the heck?) We rented an apartment and it was nice to be able to unpack, then get in the car and explore the twisty little roads that all lead to some beautiful and interesting site. <BR> <BR>Good luck <BR> <BR>Jolene

Hi again, Mark -- <BR> <BR>Re:Tours vs. self-touring -- <BR> <BR>You'll find most on this forum will advocate doing it yourself, but let me offer a perspective on why (out of experience): <BR> <BR>While you are still in the states and overwhelmed by the "chore" of planning (which turns out is about 30% of the fun of the trip) to go somewhere you've never been, a tour seems like the safe, reassuring way to see the important sites and perhaps save money. No hassle with transportation or reservations, no dithering about where to go next -- it's all taken care of. <BR> <BR>But when you get there, I guarantee you that you have also bought some frustration, some disappointment, and maybe even some serious regret, no matter how good the tour is. There will always be a museum or sight/site where you feel gypped out of enough time to enjoy it. There will always be at least one hotel or meal that disappoints, often more. There will always be some personality that begins to grate on you, and if it's a tour leader you are in trouble. And you can easily feel trapped from time to time by the time schedule -- either too leisurely or too hectic. <BR> <BR>Having said that, I will quickly say that if you do it yourself, you will probably also have moments of disappointment, frustration, and even feeling trapped by your schedule. It's a rare trip without an occasional mis-step. But the difference is that, for better or worse, YOU planned it. And you have control over what's happening. Sometimes it's a godsend to say to heck with the Louvre, I want to go back to the Musee D'Orsay again -- and skip lunch, we can eat at 4. <BR> <BR>On occasion, it's nice to take a 1/2-day or single-day tour just to leave the driving to them. We often seek out a tour-the-city-by-bus for the first 1/2-day we're in a new city, just to get oriented. But even then you can get burned (as you almost certainly would if you were going to Spain and wanted to see Toledo). <BR> <BR>Of course, my dream, someday, is to have enough money for our own private driver and tourguide. But I failed to buy either Netscape or Red Hat stock on the first day of offering, so.... <BR> <BR>Another long-winded offering -- hope it's helpful, though.

Mark: Enjoy your two or three weeks in Tuscany and, if possible, rent a cottage for the whole time and do day trips. Tuscany is so immensely rich in cultural and natural attractions that it would be a pity just to race through. <BR>The best food guide to Italy I know is "Osterie d'Italia" which focusses on small restaurants with meals around 45,000 Lire generally made from home-grown products. This kind of food is termed "slow food" and in my opinion is the very best Italy has to offer. Enjoy!

You folks are the best! 11 replies in just a couple days! "Grazie" for the tips, and "keep those cards and letters coming!" <BR>And yes, I'm ALREADY addicted to this site!

There's a thread way back on pre-tip-to-Italy reading lists; searching for it may be helpful, as was Dan's suggestion to visit www.galleyslaves.com <BR>Congratulations on deciding to take the plunge, and deciding so far in advance. Anticipation/planning isn't exactly better than being there, but it's a lot of fun.

You are in for an incredible treat. In the words of an Italian friend: "uncredible and imbelievable." This is by way of telling you not to be too concerned about the accuracy of any Italian you manage to learn before you leave. My best suggestion for learning basic (several verbs with present tense conjugation: where is?, how much? what is? may I, etc. followed up with nouns of the most commonly needed items. Ice cream being at the top followed by wine, beer, toilets, gasoline, the check, hotels, etc. Get a copy of "See it & Say it in ITALIAN", Signet New American Library. Pictures to go with very simplified text. A charming book to add to your reading list is "Italian Neighbors or A Lapsed Anglo-Saxon in Verona." by Tim Parks - Fawcett Columbine New York. Just don't push yourselves so hard you have no time to enjoy what you are seeing. Elba is an interesting place. It should rate a couple of days. By the way, go for 3 weeks if you can. May & June are usually quite lovely, but warm. Our favorite place in Umbria is Orvieto. Check out the "gelato" near the Duomo. Their "limone" is "molto buono." See, it's easy. <BR> <BR>After being in and out of Italy since 1972, these two old retirees are selling out our California home and planning to spend six months of every year in Italy. A different region every year for as long as we can. So---if you see us in May, wave!!!!!! Have a wonderful time. But beware, it can be addicting.

Renting a cottage in Tuscany as a homebase is a good idea. One of the best things to do in Italy is explore the countryside and hill towns, especially in Tuscany. Driving there is not a problem, you just have to keep your eyes open because Italian drivers can be more adventurous on the road than Americans. If you are planning to go to alot of larger cities, you should think about moving the trip up to March or April. It is very crowded in May and June. Have fun!