Never had such trouble researching a trip!

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Sep 25th, 2002, 01:05 PM

kam

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Never had such trouble researching a trip!

We are planning ahead to tour the whisky distilleries of Scotland. I'm not an enthusiatics Scotch drinker but my husband is fascinated. We would like to see the Is of Islay and Speyside, but I would like to see more of the beauty of the country, shop and eat the delicious food. We've been to Scotland 3 other times so the big touristy things we've seen. love history! Alas, we're not hikers or golfer. Can anyone make any suggestions based on these difficult criteria. I'm only coming up with the routine suggestions. Like to stay in small wonderful hotels with pretty gardens but not B&Bs. Like hotels with excellent dining rooms within or a close by walk. Price is not a major factor, but we're not the lord and lady of the many. Will rent a car--driving on left is easy for me. Thanks for any thing and everything. KAM

Sep 25th, 2002, 02:24 PM

Sheila

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Hey Kam, I'm just surprised this is a problem. I'd be delighted to help. Two things.The best whisky areas in teh country are Islay and Speyside. Both have a whisky festival. Unless you are tied to a fixed time, take your trip round one or the other. http://www.spiritofspeyside.com/ and http://www.islay.co.uk/whiskyfestival/ Both are beautiful areas and so is the trip in between, If that does not exhaust your time available, let me know and I'll suggest more. As to places to stay, on Islay my favourite is the Port Charlotte Hotel. Not really a garden but a lovely hotel in a gorgeous location. http://www.portcharlottehot.demon.co.uk/ Other good places include The harbour inn in Bowmore and the Bridgend Hotel. The Lochside in Bowmore is also good but was in turmoil when I was there a fortnight ago. You might also consider the Jura Hotel. On Speyside try the Craigellachie http://www.craigellachie.com/. Other good places include the Heathrbrae in Nethy Bridge and Auchendean Lodge. Hope this helps.

Sep 25th, 2002, 02:35 PM

Steve

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I love western Scotland and particularly the Isle of Skye and the Applecross region just north of Skye. The Cairngorm area is chock full of photo views, I liked Elgin and Elgin Castle, Cawdow Castle (outside, not necessarily the inside) . . . Try this website: http://www.scotland-inverness.co.uk/ Have fun.

Sep 26th, 2002, 02:56 PM

Kam

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Thanks to both of you. You might remember, Sheila, that you gave me some advice last year, but we couldn't make it work with Donegal and Inishowen so did them instead. This time we are determined! Is Cawdor Castle worth seeing? How about Elgin? I'm assuming there are frequent ferries between the different islands. How many days in Islay?/Speyside and what to see between. Assuming we'll fly directly to Glasgow---can we from the West Coast of CA?

Sep 27th, 2002, 06:54 AM

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Hope this website helps. I found this yesterday and it has loads of information http://www.britannia.com/celtic/scotland

Sep 27th, 2002, 06:57 AM

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Wine Spectator magazine did an article - search their website.

Oct 1st, 2002, 04:48 AM

Sheila

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Hi Kam; sure, Cawdor Castle is worth seeing, but there are lots of castles in the general area, and the choice is myriad. Elgin's a bit naff. Nice cathedral; great cashmere mill; otherwise, give it a by. NO THERE ARE NOT FREQUENT FERRIES BETWEEN ISLANDS. MAJOR HEALTH WARNING. You can get from the mainland at Kennacraig to Islay, twice or three times a day, depending on the timetable. In summer, on a wednesday you can go to Colonsay in the morning and come back in the afternoon. The same boat stops in Oban briefly. There are frequent connections between Islay and Jura- every 30 minutes or so, during the day. Anything else, forget it. So plan for ferry trips. Use the Caledonian MacBrayne site. I've posted the address before but don't have it to hand. Let me know if I need to look it up for you.

Oct 1st, 2002, 10:53 AM

Maggie

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Hi Kam, The whisky trail in Speyside is in a beautiful area. You won't be disapointed there. I haven't been to Islay. I have a few good websites. http://www.whiskyweb.com/ It's hard to read, but there's plenty of information. We loved Glenfarcles! Also a beautiful small castle near there with beautiful gardens. http://www.ballindallochcastle.co.uk/ http://www.ifb.net/webit/whisky.htm You can stay in Granton-on-Spey as we did. So easy to reach the north coast to towards Inverness area. Cawdor Castle too! Ballater is alos a good place you might want to stay. You can see Balmoral castle. This town is where the royals shop. Some nice places here to stay. http://www.destination-scotland.com/accommodation/grampian.asp Also http://www.destination-scotland.com/accommodation/grampian.asp http://www.destination- scotland.com/accommodation/grampian.asp http://www.s-h-systems.co.uk/grantown.html Hope some of this is helpful! Maggie

Oct 29th, 2002, 12:50 PM

kam

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Hello all, me again. Still working on our Scotland trip. We have discovered that we can fly from SFO to Glasgow through Toronto on Air Canada. So, that helps not to go through Heathrow. We are locked into the last week of August, first week of September. Fourteen days minus 2 travel days. So far we plan to: Stay first night near Loch Lommond--Luss? Inverbeg Hotel? Second day drive to Kintyre Peninsula and visit Campbelltown (distillery) Stay? Third day via ferry to Islay--Sheila recommends Port Charlotte Hotel--is there a town there or just the hotel? Fourth and fifth day on Islay. Six Day heading toward Speyside---want to see Cawdor Castle, Elgin (Sheila, what does "naff" mean?), Culloden Battlefield and end up in Speyside. Stay? Day Seven and Eight, maybe Nine in Speyside visiting distilleries and historic sites. What to include? Then I'm stumped except we'll need to be back in Glasgow on Day Twelve for a morning flight Day 13. We've been to Edinburgh and the Borders two years ago, to Callendar and the Trossachs and to Glasgow, although 20 years ago when it was pretty gloomy. Have seen Stirling twice. Don't have a lot of interest in museums or big cities, prefer smaller towns, little hotels(not B&Bs--husband's quirk), great restaurants within walking distance or in the hotel. Driving on "other side" not a problem and I don't really like whisky, so I'll be the DD. Both of us love history and castles. All thoughts most appreciated. Thanks. Kam

Oct 29th, 2002, 01:22 PM

#10

elizabeth

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Friends of ours raved about this hotel (Knockinaam Lodge) right on the sea in 30 acres of parkland. They said the food was wonderful (it's a Michelin one star but the room rates are pretty good, considering) http://www.prideofbritainhotels.com/...knockinaam.htm

Oct 29th, 2002, 02:25 PM

#11

Sheila

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Kam Here is, in two parts, my stuff on Speyside. Start at Dufftown, where you will find Glenfiddich distillery- not the best whisky in the world but probably the best tour. Other local distilleries include Glenlivet (which is better than Strathisla anyway) and Cardhu. Go on to Tomintoul and stop in this pretty village. Buy your whisky in the specialist shop here. There is also a very good wood carvers shop here, right next door.. Go on over the hill and aim for the Heather Brae in Nethy Bridge. It has a nice homely restaurant. Take the steam train at Boat of Garten then go into the Forest at Abernethy or Rothiemurchus. Other things to do in the area include the Highland Wildlife Park, and the Landmark Centre. Go down to Kingussie and see the Wade barracks at Ruthven. Posher for dinner is the Cross at Kingussie. Drive down the Spey to Craigellachie then north to Elgin, and visit the castle. Very good shopping (but expensive) at Johnston’s of Elgin-cashmere a speciality. Back on the A9, you come to Newtonmore and Kingussie I can never remember which comes first, but at the first one there is a superb 17th century barracks built by the English to keep the Scots down after Culloden. Worth a trip. It's immediately adjacent to Insch Marches which is another bird reserve- lots of brilliant ducks and waders (did I mention I was into birds?). Carry on up the Spey until just before Aviemore and turn right as though you were going to Grantown on Spey. You come first to Rothiemurchus which has all sorts of visitor facilities, then to Abernethy estate, which is also owned by the bird people (Royal Society for the Protection of Birds) At their Loch Garten reserve apart from the Osprey, which are wonderful fish eating raptors which live in Africa in winter and come to visit us in summer- they always come back to the same nest so the RSPB have a live TV camera showing everything that is going on.- there are lots of other things to see. In any case, Rothiemurchus and Abernethy are remnant Caledonian pine forest- our oldest trees; and I guarantee you, that, unless you are made of stone, a walk off the track will make your skin tingle. You have the sensation of being where generations have been before. If you go up into the hills here (quite a long walk- 4-5 hours, but worth every minute) you may well see Golden Eagle. By going back to Aviemore and going to the ski slopes at Cairngorm, you can take the funicular well up the mountain; but we'll all hate you for doing it the easy way.

Oct 29th, 2002, 02:30 PM

#12

Sheila

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A good whisky route from Dufftown might be Craigellachie, Aberlour, then Grantown along the mighty Spey. The Macallan is probably the best Speyside whisky, but Aberlour itself is a good second. Make sure that one of the distilleries you go to see has a malting floor. Hikes- Big mountain-Ben Macdui/Cairngorm? (why walk through the valley, when you can look down on them instead?) Low level stuff- Loch an Eilean; Highland Wildlife Park etc Ancients- Apart from Clava Cairns, there’s a stone circle at Aviemore, and, Sueno’s Stone at Forres. There are so many ancient sites, it’s difficult to list them, but here are two web links that might be of use

BR> http://www.darkisle.com/picts.html http://www.megalith.ukf.net/ http://www.scenicscotland.net/inverness/places+to+visit/historic.htm My husband is into all this stuff so, if you want to know about any site in particular, let us know. As to History, the area you’re in is not the most historic, because there was a lack of written history until they moved from Gaelic to English. You might want to learn a little about the 1715 and 1745 rebellions and some stuff about the Wolf Of Badenoch, which will mostly affect the direct area. The castle on the island at Loch an Eilean was his and he was the boy that burned the roof off Elgin cathedral. The ’45 finished at Culloden and Wade had his men in the Highlands after the ’15 creating better communications. Subduing the highlanders was the excuse for Forts like Ardersier too. The Spey is Scotland’s second best salmon river, and the tributaries are pretty good too. Most hotels will be able to fix permits (you can go rough fishing anytime but some species are private and you need to have permits). The fishing shops in the larger villages will keep you right. You are in some of the best walking country in the country. Apart from the forests at Abernethy and Rothiemurchus try Glen Feshie, Loch Morlich, down Loch Lagganside and into the National Park at Ben Meggaidh. Churches are not a great feature. We were too poor. Elgin cathedral is worth a look as is Pluscarden Abbey.

Oct 29th, 2002, 02:42 PM

#13

Sheila

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Kam I'm sure the Knockinaam is a lovely hotel but it's a bit of a long commute to the places you're aiming for

Inverbeg Hotel?- very nice- a bit of character. Campbelltown (distillery) Stay? The West Loch Hotel at Tarbert. Nice rooms, great food, and doe breakfast in your room if you're going for teh early ferry- 10 minutes from the ferry terminal. Port Charlotte Hotel--is there a town there or just the hotel?- small planned village of whitewashed houses on the shores of Lochindaal. Shop, filling station, primary school, pub as well as the hotel, restaurant, and Wildlife centre. Other good hotels on the island include the Lochside in Bowmore (if the building work is finished) the Harbour in Bowmore, and the Bridgend. But The Port Charlotte is the nicest. I did a huge travelogue for Fodorites earlier this summer, which took in Islay. If you want it drop me an email. what does "naff" mean?- My British American "dictionary says " "if something is naff it is basically uncool. Anoraks are naff, salad cream is also naff. Speyside. Stay? - Lots of choices, depending on taste and budget. The Craigellachie for choice. The Heather Brae at Nethy Bridge is nice and the Auchendeal lodge at Dulnain Bridge is idosyncratic Here is an Edinburgh to Speyside route which you could do in reverse and take a couple of days over

BR> You drive north over the Forth Bridge Start at Kinross and Loch Leven, where Mary Queen of Scots was locked up in the castle on the island- by this time she’ll seem like and old friend. Cut east and come to the coast about Leven, then drive north along the coast road, visiting the fishing villages and stopping slightly longer at St Andrews. Cross the Tay to Dundee and go and visit Captain Scott’s boat the Discovery. Drive northwest to Glamis and visit the castle. Then come up to Blairgowrie (if you like stopping in Kirriemiur, the home of JM Barrie, who wrote Peter Pan) and then drive through Glen Shee to Braemar. Stay overnight somewhere between Braemar and Crathes. This is Royal Deeside. You can visit Balmoral so long as the family is not at home, but there are lots of other castles, if they are. Braemar castle itself is good, and you could take an evening run up to the Linn of Dee for a stroll round the lower reaches of the Cairngorms in a beautiful pine forest. Hope this helps.

Oct 29th, 2002, 03:33 PM

#14

kam

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Sheila, Can't thank you enough! Friends have recommended the Culloden House Hotel near Inverness as our one big spluge place. Do you know of it? My husband agrees that MacCallan is the best but Glenfiddich is a good tour. Do you have to take the tours in order to taste the whisky? He's pretty knowledgeable about how Scotch is made and vs Irish, but is interested in tasting the difference between them with someone who can answer questions, point out fine points etc. I'd love to have your travelogue for Fodorites. If you ever need Bay area/northern CA suggestions, feel free to ask. Thanks again. Kam