I'm putting the finishing touches on my Paris itinerary, and I have a couple of mornings and afternoons free. I am looking for a nice, off-the-beaten path neighborhood to explore, one that is relatively safe to walk around in and is not too commercial or touristy. We've done Rue Cler (we've seen enough of that place, it being overrun with tourists all carrying their Rick Steves' books). A plus to any recommendation would be a place to eat for lunch, either before or after the walk. Thanks.

Take the metro to Vincennes and explore the area. We had excellent hot chocolate there at a cafe (sorry I can't remember the name), there's a lovely park and of course, the castle.

If it is not a Saturday (religious holiday), I would recommend the Jewish area in central Paris. The street is closed to traffic with lots of shops and people watching. (I tried to get to a well known flower market in the suburbs of Paris but it was a Monday and closed.) I took a Frommers walk by myself.The Jewish area street was packed with people but empty and boarded up on a Saturday. http://www.frommers.com/destinations...20035.html#top
Rue des Rosiers From frommers:
"Rue des Rosiers (Street of the Rosebushes) is one of the most colorful and typical streets remaining from Paris's old Jewish quarter, and you'll find an intriguing blend of living memorials to Ashkenazi and Sephardic traditions. The Star of David shines from some of the shop windows; Hebrew letters appear, sometimes in neon; couscous is sold from shops run by Moroccan, Tunisian, or Algerian Jews; restaurants serve kosher food; and signs appeal for Jewish liberation. You'll come across many delicacies you might've read about but never seen, such as sausage stuffed in a gooseneck, roots of black horseradish, and pickled lemons."

Anyway I am not Jewish or religious but really loved the atmosphere. I enjoyed that particular self guided walk, the whole thing.

I think the covered passages of Paris are wonderful, and good to know about in case it's a rainy day

http://www.parisbestlodge.com/passages.html

Another suggestion would be to explore the tiny 2d arrondisement (Bourse), which includes Gallerie Vivienne and the Passage St Anne, but which is also ground zero for the Japanese zone of Paris, which is rather unusual and a mostly unseen side of Paris. You can check out the sushi offerings, or eat at Le Grand Colbert.

In the spring we walked along the Viaduc des Artes - it actually goes along the top of an old rail line - lots of flowers, views of Paris residences, eventually comes to a park with lots of locals, youths, mothers and children - not an area listed in Rick Steves. We ate in the area near the beginning of the viaduc about a block from there - outdoor cafe with nice fix prix menu - sorry I don't have the name but it was all locals - many with their lunch coupons.

Another pleasant outing is along the Canal St. Martin. You can walk or take a boat ride. Both these are more of outdoor enjoyments - I think there are shops under the Viaduc des Artes but we never got to them.

I second suec1. Parc Monceau is a very pretty and meditative type of neighborhood park, albeit a large one.

freberta,

The suggestions above by Chania and zeppole are good ones.

Earlier this year we spent a month in the Marais district of Paris, which includes the suggested sites and much more (somewhere in the dark recesses of this forum is my wife's description of the neighborhood, and my trip report - separate threads). I think the Marais will provide just the experience you're looking for.

Like others, I recommend the Marais (the historically Jewish area) for a pleasant afternoon of wandering narrow streets and popping into unusual shops. For lunch or an afternoon snack, there are some pleasant cafes under the arcades surrounding the lovely Place des Vosges in the Marais.

http://www.parismarais.com/place-des-vosges.htm

On the way to the Jacquemart-Andre museum, hub and I ate at a brasserie nearby. Sorry, no name available but then we found out that the museum has a cafe in the garden room. I enjoyed the museum as it was actually someone's home.

Also the area Auteuil has art deco (nouveau?) buildings by Guimard. Eyewitness Tours has an intinerary in the Paris book.

freberta~ Did you really see tourists carrying Rick Steves guidebooks on Rue Cler?

Just curious because the afternoon we walked thru there I didn't notice anything like that.

I found it fascinating to follow the remains and the "shadows" of the wall that once enclosed medieval Paris. It's in my phototravelogue at http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...&y=-p4ospj

Loved staying around Chateau de Vincennes last year. Not a tourist in sight. I was forced to practice my fractured French.

Reading these suggestions brings back such great memories for me... and a few ideas that I'll tuck away for my next trip. On past trips to Paris I have particularly enjoyed exploring Le Marais, Viaduc des Arts, and the covered passages in the 2nd. Before taking a walk along Canal St. Martin, we strolled around Parc des Buttes Chaumont (19th). It made for a lovely afternoon.

The Sept/08 edition of Gourmet magazine is a "Paris on a Budget" Collector's Edition. Perhaps, you've already seen it. It offers several articles on some of the less well-known arrondissements. It may provide you with additional inspiration.

Bon Voyage!

I'm a naysayer on the canal boat ride. Walk if you want to see the area. You'll have more flexibility.

Dear Suze,

That was in 2002, and I had just "discovered" Rick Steves on PBS and had become a disciple of his. I couldn't believe how many people wandering up and down rue Cler were carrying his book. On our last trip to Paris, in 2004, we didn't see nearly as many, but we did see a lot of Rick Steves' books in Gimmelwald, Switzerland, another of Steves' highly recommended places. That trip in 2004 was based on a lot of Steves' recommendations plus a lot that I got from Michelin guides. It was probably the best trip I ever planned, so I can't knock Rick Steves too much. But I think I've outgrown him.

I want to thank everyone for their recommendations on neighborhoods. We've already been to the Jewish quarter, and being Jewish, we tend to visit the Jewish quarters or ghettoes in a lot of the cities we visit. But our free day is on Saturday, and of course, we could try to go to services in the morning, but I don't think they'd let us in if we are carrying bags. I believe most of the synagogues are orthodox and won't allow any type of bag (especially if I'm carrying money). But it's worth a try. The last time I was there with my husband alone (2002) we ate at Jo Goldenberg's, which has since closed I believe. Comparing it to Kosher-style delis in the U.S., I thought it was just fair.

I'm going to sit down and seriously consider all the recommendations and I know that I'll pick at least one to include in my now almost finished itinerary. Thanks!

Hi again, freberta, I found the book with the Musee Jacquemart-Andre info.
We had taken the #83 bus from St. Germain de Pres (near Bon Marche) so must have gotten off bus at stop nearest museum.
We ate at Bistrot Haussman. Each had simple but delicious salads: hub's was tomato and anchovies and mine was mushroom and haricots verts.
Please report where you went. I've been watching these types of posts as we are leaving on 9/2 for our 4th trip.
I read Rick Steves, Eyewitness Tours and Fodor's all the time for ideas. Especially like the "If you have 7 days..." suggestions.
We also ask cabbies for suggestions-they often lead us to places overlooked in the guide books as must-sees for trip virgins.
Enjoy!

There are so many places to wonder around in Paris. One that my wife & I have to stroll through is Luxembourg Gardens(sp) because it is so large & you can find your own hiding place in it. We traveled with Rick Steves the first time in 1993 for a 6 week wonder around Europe when visiting our Daughter & Son-in-law that had moved there in 92 and still use some of his stuff for references but have been back many times so we mostly do it on our own. Have a good trip.

Mrs. K and I were in the 11e arrondissement by Place de la République and enjoyed it thoroughly. Perhaps not the most central locale but when I had to go shopping to purchase a blazer (because mine had been left unpacked), the search was an enjoyable tour of the varied neighbourhood. Plus, the selection of hole-in-the-wall restaurants and cafés made our free time evenings pleasant too.

I would second the recommendations regarding the Parc Monceau and Auteuil areas. We also enjoyed walking around La Butte aux Cailles, just to the south-west (as I recall) of Place d'Italie. A very short walk to the east of that region is the much-more-commercial Avenues d'Italie and de Choisy, where there are plenty of Asian restaurants and shops.