Need your help to refine this Andalusia itinerary
Dec 13th, 2007, 11:42 PM
#22
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Hello, Maribel, glad you’re back. You’ve been cited in the latest Fodor’s Spain, you know?
In fact, with time available, there are several routes that can be done in the Pueblos Blancos area. Basically using the roads: 376 (the fast, better one) to Montecorto, Algodonales, Villamartin, Bornos and Arcos; the scenic one with impressive mirador del Guarda Forestal: Grazalema, El Bosque, Arcos; and the southern one, the road Ronda to Gaucín, with Atajate, Belnalauría and Algatocín (useful website for this is www.serraniaronda.org ). You can go from one route to other but through winding narrow roads. Ubrique I recommend, but leather prices there are mostly the same you can find in Ronda. Cortes dela Frontera (with accent on the O) I visit again last spring and was very disappointed as it has suffered severe modernisation. I know and recommend too the Molino del Santo and Meson la Molienda in Benalauría (I think you got the name wrong) www.molienda.com . The Cueva de la Pileta I have not visited, but I rec. a stop at the Cueva del Gato, you cannot go into the cave, but the place is beautiful, with a nice new hotel-restaurant www.hotelcuevadelgato.com . The best sight of Zahara is arriving from Algodonales in the afternoon, the town faces west.
About Alpujarras, I arrived from the south (Motril) to Órgiva and then Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira. From here you can trek to El Veleta peak. Side trip to Trevélez (good restaurants, specialities ham and trout). I stayed at a Capileira rural place Catifalarga, it was recently opened and we had some problems with the heating system at night (power shutdown at twoAM), and it is really cold there at night. It is a beautiful place, I recommended the Villa Turistica de Bubion being a more conventional place.
But of course, planning the routes depends on the time of the year.
In fact, with time available, there are several routes that can be done in the Pueblos Blancos area. Basically using the roads: 376 (the fast, better one) to Montecorto, Algodonales, Villamartin, Bornos and Arcos; the scenic one with impressive mirador del Guarda Forestal: Grazalema, El Bosque, Arcos; and the southern one, the road Ronda to Gaucín, with Atajate, Belnalauría and Algatocín (useful website for this is www.serraniaronda.org ). You can go from one route to other but through winding narrow roads. Ubrique I recommend, but leather prices there are mostly the same you can find in Ronda. Cortes dela Frontera (with accent on the O) I visit again last spring and was very disappointed as it has suffered severe modernisation. I know and recommend too the Molino del Santo and Meson la Molienda in Benalauría (I think you got the name wrong) www.molienda.com . The Cueva de la Pileta I have not visited, but I rec. a stop at the Cueva del Gato, you cannot go into the cave, but the place is beautiful, with a nice new hotel-restaurant www.hotelcuevadelgato.com . The best sight of Zahara is arriving from Algodonales in the afternoon, the town faces west.
About Alpujarras, I arrived from the south (Motril) to Órgiva and then Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira. From here you can trek to El Veleta peak. Side trip to Trevélez (good restaurants, specialities ham and trout). I stayed at a Capileira rural place Catifalarga, it was recently opened and we had some problems with the heating system at night (power shutdown at twoAM), and it is really cold there at night. It is a beautiful place, I recommended the Villa Turistica de Bubion being a more conventional place.
But of course, planning the routes depends on the time of the year.
Dec 14th, 2007, 09:03 AM
#23
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Hi kdd
From the posts I am not sure whether you have decided to totally concentrate on the hills but we have great travels on the coast (well away from the Del Sol). We have frequently travelled from Seville/Sanlucar/Cadiz/Jerez/Medina Sedonia/Arcos then Grazalmena.
In Seville try to get to the bars on the south bank of the river (in Triana) the locals have regularly run unplanned flamenco shows. I would also suggest going to the bullfight - Seville's arena is spectacular and whatever your views it is easy to see Seville's connection with the countryside and its roots through this experience.
Seville is our favourite city in the world and I would say 4 days is perfect.
Jerez is well and truely doable on foot with the main attractions - the Bodegas and The Royal Andalucian School of Equestrian Art being fairly close. We would suggest Pedro Domecq's tour due the the available complimentary Carlos I brandy (but IMO).
Sanlucar is a wonderful little coastal village that hasn't been pillaged by development. Sipping chilled Fino Manzanilla on the beach beats swinging Brunello in Pienza!
We would also suggest completing the circuit via Cadiz - it's very marginal and gives a good flavour of the Spain's proximity to Africa. Cadiz particularly has a high African population and its old architecture gives in a very "pirate" feel to the place.
I would warn about basing yourself in Grazelmena - the roads can be very winding and it can take a long time to get anywhere. Particularly if you have to return each evening.
I am not sure about your budget but we have stayed at this house previously - it is simply amazing and you may be able to do a short term deal if it is available. It is the old estate house of the Gonzales Byass family, is like a film set and allows you to live like a sherry baron for your stay. Its land extends for as far as the eye can see! (10 miles).
http://www.vintagetravel.co.uk/villa...s.cfm?p_id=160
If you can't afford it (we could really at the time but did it anyway) - do it its a house of a lifetime!
I would agree with the comments regarding Casares - ruining by eco power and remember alway keep at least 30 miles between you and Marbella!
From the posts I am not sure whether you have decided to totally concentrate on the hills but we have great travels on the coast (well away from the Del Sol). We have frequently travelled from Seville/Sanlucar/Cadiz/Jerez/Medina Sedonia/Arcos then Grazalmena.
In Seville try to get to the bars on the south bank of the river (in Triana) the locals have regularly run unplanned flamenco shows. I would also suggest going to the bullfight - Seville's arena is spectacular and whatever your views it is easy to see Seville's connection with the countryside and its roots through this experience.
Seville is our favourite city in the world and I would say 4 days is perfect.
Jerez is well and truely doable on foot with the main attractions - the Bodegas and The Royal Andalucian School of Equestrian Art being fairly close. We would suggest Pedro Domecq's tour due the the available complimentary Carlos I brandy (but IMO).
Sanlucar is a wonderful little coastal village that hasn't been pillaged by development. Sipping chilled Fino Manzanilla on the beach beats swinging Brunello in Pienza!
We would also suggest completing the circuit via Cadiz - it's very marginal and gives a good flavour of the Spain's proximity to Africa. Cadiz particularly has a high African population and its old architecture gives in a very "pirate" feel to the place.
I would warn about basing yourself in Grazelmena - the roads can be very winding and it can take a long time to get anywhere. Particularly if you have to return each evening.
I am not sure about your budget but we have stayed at this house previously - it is simply amazing and you may be able to do a short term deal if it is available. It is the old estate house of the Gonzales Byass family, is like a film set and allows you to live like a sherry baron for your stay. Its land extends for as far as the eye can see! (10 miles).
http://www.vintagetravel.co.uk/villa...s.cfm?p_id=160
If you can't afford it (we could really at the time but did it anyway) - do it its a house of a lifetime!
I would agree with the comments regarding Casares - ruining by eco power and remember alway keep at least 30 miles between you and Marbella!
Dec 14th, 2007, 10:56 AM
#24
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Hi josele,
Sorry-yes, I meant Mesón la Molienda (with beautiful views)! We loved its rustic simplicity and yummy vegetarian dishes (good prices too).
Sorry to hear about Cortes (oops-acento en la o) de la Frontera's going modern; can cross it off my list for our next trip!
Thanks for telling us about the new hotel at the cave; it's very well priced and gets good reviews on Top Rural.
I was looking at the review of Cortijo Catifalarga, re you stayed, on i-escape, and wondered if it would be too isolated or too rustic.
markrosy,
The house rental looks gorgeous. We stayed with don Gonzalo (of the González Byass dynasty) at his Seville mansion, Casa 7, when it first opened. I knew he had opened another former family home to guests outside of Jerez (Casa Viña de Alcántara) but wasn't aware of the González family estate outside Arcos. Thanks for the link¡
kdd,
I agree with markrosy about staying away from the congestion of Marbella, which you probably planned to do.
From Ronda we had to drive down to look at a hotel property during Easter week and could hardly wait to get out of the traffic and maze of the city and back up to the quiet hills.
Sorry-yes, I meant Mesón la Molienda (with beautiful views)! We loved its rustic simplicity and yummy vegetarian dishes (good prices too).
Sorry to hear about Cortes (oops-acento en la o) de la Frontera's going modern; can cross it off my list for our next trip!
Thanks for telling us about the new hotel at the cave; it's very well priced and gets good reviews on Top Rural.
I was looking at the review of Cortijo Catifalarga, re you stayed, on i-escape, and wondered if it would be too isolated or too rustic.
markrosy,
The house rental looks gorgeous. We stayed with don Gonzalo (of the González Byass dynasty) at his Seville mansion, Casa 7, when it first opened. I knew he had opened another former family home to guests outside of Jerez (Casa Viña de Alcántara) but wasn't aware of the González family estate outside Arcos. Thanks for the link¡
kdd,
I agree with markrosy about staying away from the congestion of Marbella, which you probably planned to do.
From Ronda we had to drive down to look at a hotel property during Easter week and could hardly wait to get out of the traffic and maze of the city and back up to the quiet hills.
Dec 14th, 2007, 12:03 PM
#25
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Maribel
I think the family simply got their pricing structure wrong - I know that there are stratospheric rental properties out there for £30,000 per week. I simply cannot see how a rental in Andalucia can get better than this - we paid £1100 for a week - 7 bedrooms, one pool, one chapel, one bullring and a mad St Bernard dog who followed us everywhere. I would encourage anyone to go!
Did you ever get to El Chorro gorge near Alora - its stunning - it was always my ambition to do the walk but only crazy 20 year old Spaniards did - I am far too old now!
I think the family simply got their pricing structure wrong - I know that there are stratospheric rental properties out there for £30,000 per week. I simply cannot see how a rental in Andalucia can get better than this - we paid £1100 for a week - 7 bedrooms, one pool, one chapel, one bullring and a mad St Bernard dog who followed us everywhere. I would encourage anyone to go!
Did you ever get to El Chorro gorge near Alora - its stunning - it was always my ambition to do the walk but only crazy 20 year old Spaniards did - I am far too old now!
Dec 15th, 2007, 04:14 AM
#27
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Maribel, Catifalarga is no more than 5 min walk from Capileira. We were several couples, so we took two doubles and a bigger "suite" with kitchen and living room, a real apartment indeed.
About El Chorro, it is a great sight. You can get there from Antequera-->Valle de Abdalajís; or from Ardales (on the road Ronda to Malaga). The small path is presently closed as it is very deteriorated and even missing in spots. Though every year there is an accident. I'll go there to paint next spring, and I'll update then.
About El Chorro, it is a great sight. You can get there from Antequera-->Valle de Abdalajís; or from Ardales (on the road Ronda to Malaga). The small path is presently closed as it is very deteriorated and even missing in spots. Though every year there is an accident. I'll go there to paint next spring, and I'll update then.
Dec 15th, 2007, 08:56 AM
#29
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amsdon
we were not aware that the beast was resident - got there at 11.30pm - couldn't find the lights for the house - they were in the barn - the beast lived in the barn and literally jumped on me in the dark with slobbering licks - I DID NEARLY DIE!
You have seen the thread on the Lounge forum that uses a webcam at an African watering hole. Thats that the pool was like - it was the only water for wiles around and at night 40 sorts of beast came to drink from it.
I could not praise Vintage Travel enough we have used them for 10 years and have not been let down.
we were not aware that the beast was resident - got there at 11.30pm - couldn't find the lights for the house - they were in the barn - the beast lived in the barn and literally jumped on me in the dark with slobbering licks - I DID NEARLY DIE!
You have seen the thread on the Lounge forum that uses a webcam at an African watering hole. Thats that the pool was like - it was the only water for wiles around and at night 40 sorts of beast came to drink from it.
I could not praise Vintage Travel enough we have used them for 10 years and have not been let down.
Dec 15th, 2007, 10:30 AM
#31
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mark,
Never did make the El Chorro gorge walk.
(thanks for the warning, josele, on its condition. I'm afraid I waited too long!)
Now I'm dying to see Hacienda la Parilla Alta! What a find. It appears only to be represented by Vintage Spain.
They have some really lovely Andalusian properties. I'll have to convince a couple who sometimes travels with us to try one of them out next year. We had a one trip scheduled last year for Vejer & environs that we cancelled to go to La Rioja.
mark,
Have you rented from Vintage Spain in the Vejer area?(I'm attracted to Casa Juan Bravo for us).
Thanks!
kdd,
We purchased our Alhambra tixs on the web almost two months in advance but weren't able to get 2 tixs for the early time slot for the day we wanted (Feb. 5). (One ticket was available for the 8:30-9 am slot, but 2 tickets were only avaiable for the 10-10:30 am entrance).
So if you're sure of your Granada dates and want a particular entrance time, I encourage buying those tixs ASAP.
(I couldn't get the Servicaixa booking site to work properly on IE, Safari or Firefox but it worked fine on Opera, but I use a mac)
www.alhambra-tickets.es
Never did make the El Chorro gorge walk.
(thanks for the warning, josele, on its condition. I'm afraid I waited too long!)
Now I'm dying to see Hacienda la Parilla Alta! What a find. It appears only to be represented by Vintage Spain.
They have some really lovely Andalusian properties. I'll have to convince a couple who sometimes travels with us to try one of them out next year. We had a one trip scheduled last year for Vejer & environs that we cancelled to go to La Rioja.
mark,
Have you rented from Vintage Spain in the Vejer area?(I'm attracted to Casa Juan Bravo for us).
Thanks!
kdd,
We purchased our Alhambra tixs on the web almost two months in advance but weren't able to get 2 tixs for the early time slot for the day we wanted (Feb. 5). (One ticket was available for the 8:30-9 am slot, but 2 tickets were only avaiable for the 10-10:30 am entrance).
So if you're sure of your Granada dates and want a particular entrance time, I encourage buying those tixs ASAP.
(I couldn't get the Servicaixa booking site to work properly on IE, Safari or Firefox but it worked fine on Opera, but I use a mac)
www.alhambra-tickets.es
Dec 15th, 2007, 12:01 PM
#34
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Maribel
It is only represented by Vintage they have direct instructions from the family.
On the mainland we have only rented La Parilla from them but have rented 5 ish times from them on Mallorca where we spend half our time!
2 sets of friends rented the house after we found it and have been back since. We never re-visit properties and avoid re-visiting location at the risk of ruining memories - this is based actually on an experience we had close to this locality.
We had our honeymoon 12?13?14 ish years ago. We stayed for three nights in Zahara De Los Atunes on the coast. It was then a sleepy fishing village where they caught tuna for you to barbecue on the beach. They trained bulls to fight on the beach and we rode Andalucian stallions each evening. We then returned 3 summers ago and the village had been totally decimated by low cost holiday apartments and was unrecognisable - we swore never again to ruin the memories of life!
It is only represented by Vintage they have direct instructions from the family.
On the mainland we have only rented La Parilla from them but have rented 5 ish times from them on Mallorca where we spend half our time!
2 sets of friends rented the house after we found it and have been back since. We never re-visit properties and avoid re-visiting location at the risk of ruining memories - this is based actually on an experience we had close to this locality.
We had our honeymoon 12?13?14 ish years ago. We stayed for three nights in Zahara De Los Atunes on the coast. It was then a sleepy fishing village where they caught tuna for you to barbecue on the beach. They trained bulls to fight on the beach and we rode Andalucian stallions each evening. We then returned 3 summers ago and the village had been totally decimated by low cost holiday apartments and was unrecognisable - we swore never again to ruin the memories of life!
