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Old Jul 26th, 2004, 01:16 PM
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Need advice on little things & magic moments

Dear Friends,
Yes, another honeymoon couple in Italy. . . Sam, my fiancé, wanted Alaska, but realized that he should probably honeymoon in a place where I would be also.

We are pretty set on our itinerary and lodging, which I booked after extensive research on the Fodors site. I appreciate everyone?s tips and advice!!! I?m looking for any advice you might have on the smaller details --- any recommendations of your favorite restaurant in the world, or of some little off-the-wall thing you did or came across (magic moment); mundane travel trips (we are a little nervous about renting cars, taking trains, etc.); etc. He is not as anti-city as you may think from the Alaska comment, but we are not types who must see every hill town or major touristy site --- we plan to sleep late sometimes, walk, and linger over meals. I have gathered some general car & train advice from this site (Auto Europe is best, etc.) but would appreciate any advice on de-stressifying train or car travel, though we will allow ourselves three tired quarrels. Oh yes, we are skipping Venice, not to be perverse (well, partly that) but because I have a friend who is moving there and we will have better chances to stay there in the future. So, no ?you must go to Venice or your marriage will end in divorce? comments please.

September 28 ? ROMA (4 nights)
Arrive in Rome about 9:00 pm. We are staying at a fancy place near the Spanish Steps, a gift from my future mother-in-law. How to get from the airport to the hotel? I read on the Fodors site that a limo service such as Limo Service Rome is good. We will be Beyond Exhaustion from the wedding, travel, etc.

In Rome, I?m trying to get my fiancé to take a ?tour for smart people? from Scala Reale, at least of the ruins if not the Vatican. He does not like tours in general? Has anyone taken those tours? Are they very tiring --- five solid hours with no break for coffee? ?
We want to have one Splurge meal. I?m afraid if we ask at the hotel, they will direct us to something safe and touristy. Any ideas?

Saturday, October 2
We will rent a car and drive to the Pitigliano area. I guess we should take the train to the Rome airport and rent it there?? We?re not yet sure how that works. He wants to stay in that fort/castle thing --- La Fortezza Orsini di Sorano --- but I can?t find any reference to it on the Fodors site. Has no one stayed there? Is there a reason why no one stays there??
Sunday, October 3 ? Montepulciano, 3 nights
We will drive to Montepulciano, where we will stay in an apartment (Politan apartments). We were told to take the S2 road (called Cassia).

During our few days in Tuscany, we will drive around, walk around, fall in love with the archetypal landscape, consider quitting our jobs in power-hungry Washington DC, etc. Sam?s a wine nut, and so of course he wants to go to Montacino. We would love to visit a winery that is not among the most touristy. I know any tour is (by definition) touristy, but in Napa Valley some are less crowded and more delightful than others, and I assume Italy is the same. ANY advice on finding an ?authentic? winery would be appreciated!!!!

One day we?ll get up early to take a balloon ride (http://www.ballooningintuscany.com/). Does anyone have experience of this? It?s absurdly expensive, and we would never do it if it weren?t the honeymoon.

October 6 ? Florence ? four nights
Drop off car in Siena, walk around Siena, take the train (bus?) into Florence. We will stay at the moderately priced Il Guelfo Bianco, which no one seems to have a bad word for. We will visit the ?must-see? sites (being sure to make reservations). I have always dreamed of going to see the art in Florence.

October 10 ? Cinque Terre for three nights
Again, I?m not sure how the train thing works (change in La Spieza for the ?milk run? train, I guess). We will stay at La Torretta in Manarola, which seems less touristy and quieter than Vernazza. I know October is rainy in Cinque Terre, but maybe we?ll get lucky. If it pours we?ll lie in bed and read poetry to each other. One day we?ll do the famous hike, but if anyone has a recommendation of another walk (more off the beaten path, but not TOO steep; we are city folk with Colorado in our distant pasts) for the other day, I would love to hear about it!! And are there any wineries in the hills behind Manarola that we should visit?

The final question is whether we 1) spend an extra night in Manarola for a total of four nights, 2) Go to Milan for two nights, or 3) race up to Varenna for one night before spending our final night at an airport hotel. We are leaning toward #3. Though it will chilly, we would like to see Lake Como. Can anyone recommend how to spend one precious day at Lake Como? Should we hike around Varenna, or take the ferry to somewhere else? We don?t care about shopping, although he does like ties. We will probably splurge once more to hire a driver to take us to the airport hotel after dark, to maximize our Lake Como time --- since the last bus leaves at 4:00 pm.

THANK YOU for bearing with me to the end!!! Let me know what you think. Cheers!
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Old Jul 26th, 2004, 01:30 PM
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HI
to respond to one of your points, Scala Reale is very much recommended around here, but you probably already know that? I'm a member of the fan club.
RE the SR Vatican tour I unfortunately didn't use them for the Vatican, but absolutely wish I had, and will next time. I have some family who did take the Vatican tour, they were so grateful to have the expertise provided, otherwise it's a lot of tramping around among an overwhelming amount of art treasure. I did use SR for other walking tours and was delighted, but I like detail on history and art.
They are very well organized, provide time for bathroom breaks, and, as far as I saw on their other walks, sit-down-and-have-a-drink breaks.

They will also offer you an Orientation Hike or Stroll when you sign up for one of their tours. The "hike is about 2 hours, not strenuous, but fast-paced, and it includes some Rome sights you'd probably want to see anyway.

I have files on Rome and on Florence/Siena; if you'd like to see them, email me at
[email protected]

Congratulations on the wedding, and glad your fiance agreed to come with you on the honeymoon.
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Old Jul 26th, 2004, 01:38 PM
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Amylouise, your itinerary really seems well thought out and very doable.

I would suggest that you do not need to train to the airport to pick up a car in Rome. We used AutoEurope and they booked Europcar's office on Via Cipro for pick-up...saves the train fare and the airport pick-up fee. It was an easy drive out to the autostrada from there.
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Old Jul 26th, 2004, 01:40 PM
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I meant to add, it might save you enough to pay for the balloon ride!
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Old Jul 26th, 2004, 01:44 PM
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What an engaging style and potentially wonderful honeymoon. I am not sure where to start--it would take hours to answer all of this. Hmmm ! I have a better idea. Why not take me along? I can carry the bags. Me thinks Sam may be a lucky guy.
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Old Jul 26th, 2004, 01:45 PM
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My wife and I have been married over 35 years. We have lived in Europe and made about 30 trips back in the last 20 years.

The one thing I can tell you for sure is that the "magic moment" you are looking for will happen, but it will not happen by pre-planning it. It will be your moment and will be unplanned and unexpected.

We have many memories and special moments from our trips and they were all in unexpected towns, non planned events and just happened. This is what will happen to you!

Enjoy Italy and your honeymoon. You will have a great time. Just do not plan the trip with too much detail. Leave time for the unexpected.
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Old Jul 26th, 2004, 01:56 PM
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Amy
Listen to traveldawg!! He is absolutely right about the magic moment. Also consider taking Elaine up on her offer above. We did before we went, and she provided a tremendous amount of good information (thanks again Elaine). Relax - dont overplan - let the experience happen to you. You guys sound like your approach and attitude toward the trip, and evidently the marriage can't miss. Good luck, have a great time, and let us know how it went when you get back.
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Old Jul 26th, 2004, 03:43 PM
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It sounds like you've made some good plans. On the question about Lake Como vs. another day in Manarola, hmmm. I really didn't enjoy Lake Como like everyone else seems to (for one thing, when we visited in early October, the town seemed dead), but on the other hand, as much as I love the Cinque Terre, 4 days there in November might be a bit much. How's that for not much help?

On the special moments, they'll just come. We probably see more sites and sights than many people, but we always fit in time for lots of cafe-sitting, wine or coffee-drinking and people-watching. You may find a particular piazza in Rome is "your" piazza, that you go to night after night (maybe one with a good gelato shop) to do more cafe-sitting. Stop in any outdoor markets you see; ask questions, no matter how mangled your Italian is; try lots of new foods!

You will have at least one fight, you're. Just know that it will happen. Prime fight possibilities are right after arrival, when you're both jet-lagged; trying to find your first train or go through the autostrada tollbooth for the first time. Or, most likely, trying to find parking in some darling Italian village. You'll laugh about it later (we do!)

For renting cars, the rental people will speak English. For taking trains, watch what the people around you do.

I know people rave about Scavi Reale, but another alternative is to buy a really detailed guidebook, plus one of those nifty books that's sold everywhere in Rome that has a picture of a site the way it looks now, plus a plastic overlay showing the way it looked then (you'll know what I mean when I see it). That's what we've done.

I haven't been to Pitigliano, but we considered visiting there for our next Italy trip (decided to spend another day in Rome, instead). The fortress you mentioned - is that possibility a site to visit, rather than to stay at? All the websites I found in a quick search were in Italian only, and I only speak a smidge, so I couldn't really tell.

I've heard good things (on Fodors) about the Poggio Antico winery, outside Montalcino. In addition, they have a good restaurant there.

Have a great time!
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Old Jul 26th, 2004, 05:42 PM
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I dont have much to add...it sounds wonderful. Just dont over plan, allow some time for serendipity. My hubby and I took our honeymoon to Europe and some of the best moments just happened.

As for Rome, we couldnt afford Scala Reale, so we went with a tour with Enjoy Rome www.enjoyrome.com and thoroughly enjoyed it!

Enjoy!
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Old Jul 26th, 2004, 07:37 PM
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Hurray for Traveldawg. My sentiments exactly. My husband and I just celebrated our 40th anniversary, and ALL of our favorite travel memories have been serendipitous. Just keep an open mind, big smiles, and let your trip unfold within a framework you have designed. We fly by the seat of our pants, meet wonderful people, and always come home with fabulous memories. You just can't plan the wonderful things that will happen along the way if you are open to them. Have a wonderful honeymoon, and hope it is the first of many!
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Old Jul 26th, 2004, 07:47 PM
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Amy, have a wonderful honeymoon but don't forget to bring the magic with you. That makes it happens. It's there within you.
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Old Jul 27th, 2004, 10:35 AM
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amylouise,
I have stayed at the the Hotel della fortezza in Sorano and enjoyed it.
The bus from Siena to Florence is easier than the train.
From Montalcino on the road to Sant'Antimo there are several small wineries La Crociona and Barbi to name two that have tastings.
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Old Jul 27th, 2004, 04:41 PM
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Thanks, everyone, for the great advice and the kind wishes. I can't believe someone has stayed at the Fortezza! Henry, what did you like about it? And have you tried the wineries you mentioned? Thanks everyone for the tour information also. Does anyone have a favorite restaurant in Rome, or is that too hard a question? Sam says he IS a lucky man and he will carry the suitcases himself because he wants the exercise.
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Old Jul 27th, 2004, 09:38 PM
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The surest way to get from the airport to your fancy hotel near the Spanish steps is to have your fancy hotel arrange the ride for you...I promise you, they will send someone reliable to pick you up, someone they are accostomed to dealing with! Your hotel will probably ask your airline info, because the driver will have that info and will even know if your flight is late. Your driver will be waiting for you with your last name on a card...he will be easy to find, in a lounge that you will walk right into...That's the way we did it! (Another day I had arranged a different ride somewhere else on my own with a different driver, and the driver didn't show up...That's what can happen when you arrange a ride on your own.)

Rome has many wonderful restaurants. Our favorite was one run by an Italian family, and for 20 euros per person you get all the home-made food you can eat plus more...you don't need a menu, price includes wine and dessert as well. We ate inside with the fans going and were surrounded by Italian-speaking regular customers. Papa kissed my hand as we left. Ristorante del Pallaro, on Largo del Pallaro, 15. The best way to find it is get the Streetwise Rome map, which is plastic-coated and includes a street and piazza index. When you locate this street on the map, it will be abbreviated as "L. d. Pallaro", and it will be south of Piazza Navona and just east of Campo de fiori.

Another good restaurant which is near the Spanish steps, and has atmospheric outdoor dining if the weather is nice, is called Ristorante alla Rampa. East of the Spanish steps at Piazza Mignanelli 18.

I thought the trains were fun...we took the 1st class eurostar, which I recommend, especially for a honeymoon couple. Don't overpack, though. We took 1 wheeling carry-on size bag and 1 18" duffle bag each, and we were able to stow these over our heads on the train. Don't leave your luggage unattended, not even in 1st class, especially not when the train is stopping at any station!

I arranged a private 3-hour walking tour of the Ancient Rome ruins with Francesca Caruso, a private licensed guide. Her price is 40 euros per hour (that's for the group...our group consisted of our family of 5 people.) It was very worthwhile. We saw the Vatican Museums and St. Peter's on our own. for a couple on a honeymoon, I strongly suggest you see St. peter's basilica on your own...it is just a stunning emotional experience, and you should have it privately, and not have to share it with a group on a tour, in my opinion!

I don't know what the Vatican Museum hours are in September. we went in June, and the Vatican Museums are open til 4:30 in June...so we entered the Vatican Museums at 12:30 and there wasn't a line at this time...reached the Sistine chapel by 3:30 and went right in, there wasn't a line waiting to get in...It was perfect timing. But in September the Vatican Museums might close earlier. We saw St. peter's in the late morning and there wasn't a line.

Rome is very romantic for walking at night. At night walk to Piazza Navona, Spanish steps, Trevi fountain, etc. Don't forget to walk to the Pantheon in the daytime.

Have a wonderful honeymoon and DON'T MOVE AROUND TOO MUCH from hotel to hotel! You want time for those special moments...you don't want to be stressed out and lost all the time.

Sounds like you are pretty set on your lodging...but I gotta mention the Palazzo Ravizza in Siena is very romantic...ask for a garden view...you can see down into their lovely tidy little garden, over the walls of Siena, and out into the stunning hills of Tuscany! We stayed there and I noticed more than one couple eye-balling each other romantically in the garden of the Palazzo RAvizza! (It's within the walls of siena, by the way, though some people on line are confused and think it's outside. Definiteley INSIDE.)

Happy honeymoon!
 
Old Jul 28th, 2004, 03:15 AM
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Thanks, Melissajoy, for all the detailed information. We will try the Ristorante del Pallaro. It's great that these kind of small establishments (who probably will never be in a guidebook) can get some customers through Fodors.com. For the car to our hotel, are we supposed to pay for this service or do we tip him? You make me very impatient to get this boring wedding stuff over with so that we can leave for Italy.... Oh, yes, thanks too to Judy for the info on Via Cipro; we'll try to rent our car there.
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Old Jul 28th, 2004, 03:23 AM
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Hi amy,

Sounds like a great trip.

Recommendations for restaurants in Florence:

Il Ritrovo
Via de? Pucci 4/A
Best food for the price Has fish. Full dinner w/wine abt 40E pp Closed Monday
From Pzza San Giovani (NW corner of the Pza del Duomo) walk one blk East to Via dei Martelli. Go left to Via dei Pucci. Turn Right. Look very carefully on left. No sign. Door could be locked. Ring bell.

Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco
43 Borgo San Jacapo
Rave reviews on Fodor
popular but cramped (around €30 for dinner plus wine, Thu?Tue 12:00?15:00 & 18:30?23:30, closed Wed, reservations wise, tel. 055-215-706). [email protected] at least one week in advance.

Cantinetta Antinori
3 Via degli Antinori,
Tel: (055) 292 234 Antinori Estates enoteca about 50E pp
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Old Jul 28th, 2004, 04:03 AM
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Amylouise -

Congratulations to both of you. Italy is a great place to spend your homeymoon.

As for Lake Como, Bellagio is one of the most romantic and beautiful places in all of Europe. The weather is very pleasant in the beginning of October, although it does tend to be foggy. I would cut out a day anywhere you can (maybe Cinque Terre?) in order to spend 2 nights in Bellagio. There are absolutely beautiful villas, hotels and restaurants which could help you find that "magic moment" you are looking for.

Please check out my web site which describes several trips to Italy, including visits to Lake Como and Bellagio. I hope it can help you...
http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/5733/
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Old Jul 28th, 2004, 12:07 PM
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amylouise,
The look of the castle before you enter was great, the rooms were very nice, the views were awesome, the breakfast was very good. yes I have been to the wineries mentioned, they are very accommodating.
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Old Jul 29th, 2004, 05:55 PM
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Thanks again everyone. Ira, those restaurants look great! Steve, I checked out your webpage --- the pictures are beautiful.
And Henry --- Sam is very happy that someone recommends the fortress; we will probably go there!
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Old Jul 29th, 2004, 06:44 PM
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amylouise, best wishes on your upcoming marriage, and lucky you to see Italy so quickly! It was 18 years before my husband whisked me off to bella Italia. We stayed our first four nights in Rome, as you plan to do. You might want to read through the first part of my trip report (Sept. 2003) as I've described the restaurants and places we visited. If you type in "romp through Italy" in the search box, you'll come up with it straightaway.

We ate at the same restaurant as Mellisajoy and thought the food was wonderful (the family who runs the place is pretty colorful, too). My favorite place for dinner, though, was a small restaurant in Trastavere called da Lucia--a little hole in the wall on a street called Viccolo Mattanato. It was romantic, romantic, romantic! The dining was al fresco in the alley (that's how small Viccolo Mattanato is; couldn't call it anything but), with market lights strung across above the tables, and the food was heavenly. It was so purely Italian and wonderful that I will always remember it.
 


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