Navigating in Piemonte--A trip report
Oct 2nd, 2007, 06:01 AM
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Navigating in Piemonte--A trip report
PIEMONTE 2007---AN ABBREVIATED TRIP REPORT
PREFACE: I AM A TOTAL IDIOT ! My wife has hinted at that fact for years and now I agree with her. After spending more than 10 hours composing a real trip report I somehow managed to lose it in the process of pasting to an email format. Yes, of course I saved it. But, I think I hit � paste� when I meant �copy� and it dissolved into a hyperlink. Here is the Executive Overview version for busy people. Of course, I am always open to questions:
OVERVIEW: It was our 14th trip to Italy, but we had not seen the wine regions of Piemonte. We planned 13 days�the first 9 days at the Villa Sampaguita near Asti. See their wonderful program here for the Palio d� Asti festival week. I would sign up now for next year if you are a wine lover:
http://www.villasampaguita.com/Live/Palio.cfm There were 4 of us and another group of 6 wine lovers at the Villa for the entire 9 days�great fun !
VILLA SAMPAGUITA: Very nice accommodations just outside Asti. What makes it special is the wonderful hospitality of your hosts, Tim Brewer and Rina Vargas. Tim bends over backwards to please and Rina is a lovely person and terrific cook. Check out their rave reviews on TRIP ADVISOR. Tim had planned a perfect agenda that included too many fabulous meals, 3 wine tastings at some of the best local producers, a truffle hunt, and terrific seats for the race. Here are the links to the winery visits�all very enjoyable:
www.rivetto.it www.bava.it www.marchesidigresy.com
I was afraid I would gain weight during the week and I did---5 pounds. Tim and Rina had arranged fabulous 6 course meals at several of the best local ristorantes. The other meals were at home & Rina added to my calorie count. I am not really a �foodie� but it was all part of the full Piemonte experience.
Some of my favorites included these:
Pompa Magna in Asti---a wine bar with fabulous food
Cascina Schiavenza near Serralunga d� Alba---loved this region
Cascina Rosengana�in north Monferrato near Cocconato
THE FESTIVAL DELLE SAGRE ASTIGIANE: The week started with the traditional farmers parade with floats depicting typical village and farm life.
The farmers from all over the Asti region parade thru Asti in dress from the early 1900s. My camera was busy---see the photo gallery below. It all culminates with an al fresco lunch at food stands set up by the villagers.
What fun seeing the real village people of the Asti region doing their thing.
http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...y.php?cat=4172
PREFACE: I AM A TOTAL IDIOT ! My wife has hinted at that fact for years and now I agree with her. After spending more than 10 hours composing a real trip report I somehow managed to lose it in the process of pasting to an email format. Yes, of course I saved it. But, I think I hit � paste� when I meant �copy� and it dissolved into a hyperlink. Here is the Executive Overview version for busy people. Of course, I am always open to questions:
OVERVIEW: It was our 14th trip to Italy, but we had not seen the wine regions of Piemonte. We planned 13 days�the first 9 days at the Villa Sampaguita near Asti. See their wonderful program here for the Palio d� Asti festival week. I would sign up now for next year if you are a wine lover:
http://www.villasampaguita.com/Live/Palio.cfm There were 4 of us and another group of 6 wine lovers at the Villa for the entire 9 days�great fun !
VILLA SAMPAGUITA: Very nice accommodations just outside Asti. What makes it special is the wonderful hospitality of your hosts, Tim Brewer and Rina Vargas. Tim bends over backwards to please and Rina is a lovely person and terrific cook. Check out their rave reviews on TRIP ADVISOR. Tim had planned a perfect agenda that included too many fabulous meals, 3 wine tastings at some of the best local producers, a truffle hunt, and terrific seats for the race. Here are the links to the winery visits�all very enjoyable:
www.rivetto.it www.bava.it www.marchesidigresy.com
I was afraid I would gain weight during the week and I did---5 pounds. Tim and Rina had arranged fabulous 6 course meals at several of the best local ristorantes. The other meals were at home & Rina added to my calorie count. I am not really a �foodie� but it was all part of the full Piemonte experience.
Some of my favorites included these:
Pompa Magna in Asti---a wine bar with fabulous food
Cascina Schiavenza near Serralunga d� Alba---loved this region
Cascina Rosengana�in north Monferrato near Cocconato
THE FESTIVAL DELLE SAGRE ASTIGIANE: The week started with the traditional farmers parade with floats depicting typical village and farm life.
The farmers from all over the Asti region parade thru Asti in dress from the early 1900s. My camera was busy---see the photo gallery below. It all culminates with an al fresco lunch at food stands set up by the villagers.
What fun seeing the real village people of the Asti region doing their thing.
http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...y.php?cat=4172
Oct 2nd, 2007, 06:03 AM
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PALIO D’ ASTI---THE MEDIEVAL PARADE AND THE RACE:
This all takes place the final Sunday---always the 3rd Sunday in Sept--and was easily the highlight of the week for me. People were lined up 5 deep along the parade route to see 1200 locals all dressed in medieval costumes.
The parade lasts about 2 hours and ends up as they enter the Piazza Alfieri, the site for the traditional horse race. We had perfect seats for the races on the final turn and near the start/finish line. The races are bareback, causing riders to often fall off the horse. That happened at least 3 times during the 3 heats and the final. The heats are run to determine the final 9 horses. We were seated near the rabid San Secondo neighborhood group and easily got caught up in their enthusiasm. The noise was deafening as they taunt rivals.
This was a race for the record books. “Our” San Secondo horse did make the finals, but lost his rider on the first turn. What? The horse can still win without a rider? Well, ours did just that. You had to see his eyes—he would not be denied this day! The San Secondo group went crazy—as did we.
WHAT FUN ! ! I think that the reason I travel is to become part of a different culture for a brief time. That was true in Asti this day—not to be forgotten.
THE LAKES: We picked up our rental car in Asti and headed to Lago di Orta for our 4th visit. Our 2 colleagues, Carol and Nancy, were impressed as we checked into the Hotel Orta and got 2 of the best lake vista rooms. We spent 3 nites in this region including a full day enjoying the Borremean Isles and Stresa on Lago Maggiore. I am sad to report that the tour busses have found our favorite romantic retreat. Still lovely but not the same—too bad !
Here is my lakes photo gallery. We love the lakes ! http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...y.php?cat=4173
SUMMARY:
Mission accomplished ! We wanted to experience Piemonte and we certainly did that. This region is a natural fit for any itinerary that includes the lakes and Ligurian coast---I see it as 3 day diversion from a typical itinerary.
However, if you are a wine lover and can put together 9 days then call some friends and book the Palio d’ Asti week at Villa Sampaguita. The location is perfect and the price is right. Frankly, I think that Tim has under priced his product. We did have day trips to Torino and Genoa during our week in Asti. The train ride from Asti to Genoa was only 1:06—Torino is less. But, the real highlight for me was experiencing the local traditions of the Festival week.
BOB THE[ idiot] NAVIGATOR
This all takes place the final Sunday---always the 3rd Sunday in Sept--and was easily the highlight of the week for me. People were lined up 5 deep along the parade route to see 1200 locals all dressed in medieval costumes.
The parade lasts about 2 hours and ends up as they enter the Piazza Alfieri, the site for the traditional horse race. We had perfect seats for the races on the final turn and near the start/finish line. The races are bareback, causing riders to often fall off the horse. That happened at least 3 times during the 3 heats and the final. The heats are run to determine the final 9 horses. We were seated near the rabid San Secondo neighborhood group and easily got caught up in their enthusiasm. The noise was deafening as they taunt rivals.
This was a race for the record books. “Our” San Secondo horse did make the finals, but lost his rider on the first turn. What? The horse can still win without a rider? Well, ours did just that. You had to see his eyes—he would not be denied this day! The San Secondo group went crazy—as did we.
WHAT FUN ! ! I think that the reason I travel is to become part of a different culture for a brief time. That was true in Asti this day—not to be forgotten.
THE LAKES: We picked up our rental car in Asti and headed to Lago di Orta for our 4th visit. Our 2 colleagues, Carol and Nancy, were impressed as we checked into the Hotel Orta and got 2 of the best lake vista rooms. We spent 3 nites in this region including a full day enjoying the Borremean Isles and Stresa on Lago Maggiore. I am sad to report that the tour busses have found our favorite romantic retreat. Still lovely but not the same—too bad !
Here is my lakes photo gallery. We love the lakes ! http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...y.php?cat=4173
SUMMARY:
Mission accomplished ! We wanted to experience Piemonte and we certainly did that. This region is a natural fit for any itinerary that includes the lakes and Ligurian coast---I see it as 3 day diversion from a typical itinerary.
However, if you are a wine lover and can put together 9 days then call some friends and book the Palio d’ Asti week at Villa Sampaguita. The location is perfect and the price is right. Frankly, I think that Tim has under priced his product. We did have day trips to Torino and Genoa during our week in Asti. The train ride from Asti to Genoa was only 1:06—Torino is less. But, the real highlight for me was experiencing the local traditions of the Festival week.
BOB THE[ idiot] NAVIGATOR
Oct 3rd, 2007, 07:37 AM
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Bob, thanks for the interesting report and photos, I enjoyed them very much. I became interested in Piemonte last year when a nearby restaurant held a special wine dinner featuring Piemonte. The chef is from there. We are tentatively planning a trip for next year so I will keep your tips in mind.
Oct 3rd, 2007, 11:44 AM
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Our first trip to Piemonte in May of this year was wonderful too - sorry to hear about the Tour Groups finding your romantic lake town, I feel like large groups should be outlawed since it seems to destroy the beauty and peace of so many places...
Oct 3rd, 2007, 09:29 PM
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Bob - Thanks for the report. We're leaving in a few days for a trip that will include the Piedmont, though we're staying a little further south, in Monforte d'Alba. Your descriptions make the area sound as wonderful as I had hoped!
What did you think of Turin? Any suggestions for that city, as we'll be spending several days there, as well.
What did you think of Turin? Any suggestions for that city, as we'll be spending several days there, as well.
Oct 3rd, 2007, 09:43 PM
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In Turin be sure to go to the Egyptian museum. It's considered the best outside of Egypt.
Also, the car museum is out of this world. My husband and sons loved it and although I have no interest in cars whatever, I loved it, too.
Consume plenty of giandujua, the chocolate Turin has made famous~
Also, the car museum is out of this world. My husband and sons loved it and although I have no interest in cars whatever, I loved it, too.
Consume plenty of giandujua, the chocolate Turin has made famous~
Oct 3rd, 2007, 11:40 PM
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Bob, this trip sounds fantastic. I have just completed a food tour of Emila Romagna (report coming) and would love to try Piemonte.
Sounds like great fun and something to plan my next trip to Italy!
Sounds like great fun and something to plan my next trip to Italy!
Oct 7th, 2007, 09:04 AM
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Great post Bob, I think you had a good taste of Piedmont while you were here. Have you lost the kilos you gained while you were here?
BTW the car museum is closed for renovation until next year otherwise I would have defintely recommended it.
Ciao
BTW the car museum is closed for renovation until next year otherwise I would have defintely recommended it.
Ciao
Oct 7th, 2007, 06:04 PM
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Hello Bob, a wonderful report with beautiful photos. Tour groups..nothing remains the same does it? I have not been in the region of Piemonte for ages..I was first there in the 1970's. Lovely and wonderful food and wine is the understatement of the year.
Nov 1st, 2007, 10:01 AM
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Thanks, Bob!! The region is on my list! Can you tell me If the villa is within walking distance of Asti? The restaurants you dined in at night..how long was the drive back to the villa after dinner?? Do you think the Asti area would make the best base for touring Piedmont?
Nov 1st, 2007, 10:23 AM
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I like the Asti location because it is also a rail head for easy connections into Torino and Genoa. The Villa is about 3 km out of town but we took taxis into town and back often, or Tim would drop us in town and we would taxi back---they all know the location. Tim even reimbursed for the taxi cost, which was about 15E per trip. It would be better to have car if you are there any time other than the Palio week.
Nov 1st, 2007, 12:38 PM
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This is a great report, and wonderful photos. It was a trip to Italy for me, and though I have no plans to go to Piemonte, that doesn't mean I wouldn't like to. We too have a favorite hotel on Lake Como, not known, and I can't bring myself to tell anyone. Our dearest friends honeymooned there over 45 years ago and it hasn't changed - it looks a little like your Hotel, and the reminiscences were fun .. as a consolation for not telling anyone about our favorite Italian lake hotel, may I say that the food is pretty ordinary.
But many thanks for a super trip report.
But many thanks for a super trip report.
