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Mykonos-Naxos-Santorini - The Non-Honeymooner Trip Report

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Mykonos-Naxos-Santorini - The Non-Honeymooner Trip Report

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Old Jun 27th, 2011, 07:22 AM
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beachgirl - I completely agree with you. I really loved Mykonos - particularly Mykonos town - so much more than I expected to. We even ran into the pelican on two different occasions during our visit. One day he was on the beach at Old Port, preening for tourists, and on another day we found him wandering in a back alley all by himself. Lots of pictures!
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Old Jun 27th, 2011, 12:44 PM
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tejana

I am delighted you enjoyed Mykonos so much especially as I remember your thread last year about your proposed itinerary. It is good you gave this special island a chance to welcome you.

Also, it's great that you enjoyed your stay at the Semeli. Were there any performances at the little outdoor theatre it overlooks?

Bill
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Old Jun 27th, 2011, 01:06 PM
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My Myconian friends told me last year that there are more than one pelicans in Myconos.... they said there are two...
The most famous one was Petros in 1958, it was the first pelican on the island, and he was named Petros...
after his death, there is always a pelican on the island , and his name is always Petros...
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Old Jun 27th, 2011, 01:07 PM
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bill - no performances at the little theatre, unless you count small groups of schoolchildren putting out their own improptu performances for each other - there were a couple of those!
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Old Jun 27th, 2011, 01:25 PM
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clausar - I've heard that there ismore than one pelican now, but I only saw one at a time -- I don't know if it was two sightings of one, or one sighting each of two...
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Old Jun 27th, 2011, 01:30 PM
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Day 5 (Friday) – Mykonos Beach Day!

Today we finally got to sleep in. We didn’t set an alarm, and finally made it to breakfast about 10:30. Maybe we could get used to the Mykonos schedule, which (we’ve been told) is up about 11 am for coffee, lunch at about 4 or 5, dinner at 11 or so, and then clubbing from about 1 am until whenever. (Actually, the 1 am is just in Mykonos town, as many of the beach clubs – particularly on the south side at Paradise, etc. – don’t open until 2 am.) We are there just before the real “season” begins, so we’re starting to see signs for grand opening parties for the beach clubs, but the island doesn’t feel really crowded yet (even with the 3, 5, even 8 cruise ships a day that descend on Mykonos town).

We decided today is a beach day – there are a LOT of cruise ships in town today, and it seems like the best day for getting out of town (plus it is our last full day in Mykonos). After much deliberation, we decide against renting a car (although the rental rates are very reasonable – €25 to €30 for a jeep for the day including insurance). Taxis to the beaches are pretty cheap, but with all of the cruise ships in town, there isn’t a taxi to be had. So we decide to take the bus to Ornos and Agios Ioannis and spend the day. Since it is still off-season (by about a week), the bus only runs hourly. We decided to catch the 12:30 down to Agios Ioannis (the “Shirley Valentine” beach), spend some time at the beach there, and then maybe come back to Ornos Bay for late lunch. It turns out to be a great plan. Even though the hotel had told us that bus tickets were “about one euro” and could be paid directly to the bus driver, there were several signs in English at the bus station telling tourists that they MUST buy tickets at the machine (and reminding them to hold on to their tickets until they leave the bus in case of inspection). We had enough change that we were able to use the ticket machine with no problem (€1.60 each for a one way ticket to Ornos/Agios Ioannis) and waited for the bus. They seem to take their timetables pretty seriously, because at 12:28 the bus driver emerged from a café, unlocked the bus, and started letting people on. Here we go! I had read that this bus route was a non-stop route directly between Mykonos, Ornos and Agios Ioannis, but the “non stop” part of it is a little loosely interpreted, as the bus repeatedly stopped for locals getting on and off at various points on the route.
After about a 10 or 15 minute ride, the driver drops everyone heading for Agios Iannos at a bus stop at the top of a hill and points down the road. “Two minutes” he says, pantomiming walking. So we all (not a huge crowd – maybe 6 or 8 people) traipse down the hill to the beach, and a few minutes later find ourselves at the Hippy Fish – the little restaurant and beach club proudly proclaiming itself “as seen in Shirley Valentine.” DH and I rent a couple of beach chairs, pull out the sunglasses and sunscreen, and start to slip into the “wow, we’re really in the Greek Islands” sun and sand mode. The beach is definitely NOT crowded, but there are a few people around so we don’t feel completely isolated. Just about perfect.

Now for the water… I knew it was going to be cold (just by watching the few brave souls that had taken a dip before me), but I’m determined to do it. I’m used to the bath water temperatures of the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico, but here goes. Yup, it’s definitely “refreshing.” I think I managed to stay in about 5 minutes on the first attempt. The water temperature is definitely in the low 60s (15 to 20 degrees below my normal comfort zone!), but the water is clear and the sun is shining, and by the second dip I’m getting into the spirit of the occasion, encouraging the timid souls that are still on shore, trying to get up the nerve to take the plunge.

After a couple of hours lazing on the beach – and having decided that there wasn’t anything too interesting on the Hippy Fish lunch menu – we packed up and hiked up the hill to catch the bus to Ornos Bay to find a beach bar for a late lunch (4 pm seemed late by our normal standards, probably just about right by Mykonos standards). It was a good plan, and we spent the rest of the afternoon lounging at a café at Ornos Bay with a pizza and a carafe of white wine, watching the boats and the beachgoers. Ornos Bay is much more crowded (lively?) than Agios Iannos, and it was the perfect way to end the afternoon. At about 6 or so we caught the bus back to Mykonos town (and yes, there was a ticket checker on the route!).

Our last evening in Mykonos, and we decided to make it down to Little Venice for sunset. Alas, sunset has decided not to cooperate this evening. No rain, but clouds have rolled in from the west, obscuring the horizon. Even without a visible sunset, it was quite nice to sit and have a glass of wine with the rest of the world that had gathered with the same idea, watching the back light from the retreating sun play on the clouds as the megayachts in the harbor turn on their lights for the evening.

We aren’t terribly hungry but decided to eat a little earlier than normal (about 10 instead of 11). After much debate we went back to the scene of the great spaghetti alla vongole the previous night. We should never have sullied the memory. Instead of pasta or seafood (except for the still wonderful grilled octopus), we decided on the spit roasted lamb at the suggesting of the owner, who proudly took us to the kitchen to show off his spit. It was a mistake of rather large proportions. Does everyone in Greece overcook lamb? When we cook lamb (and DH does an exceptionally good butterflied leg of lamb on the grill), we aim for rare or medium-rare. In Greece I never saw lamb served that was less than extremely well done. Although that isn’t a bad thing if the roasting process involves a lot of basting, let’s just say that the spit roasting left it a little on the dry side. Such high hopes, dashed. Still, it was an adventure. On the way back to the hotel, wandering through the lively Friday night streets, we stopped at a little gelato shop at a tiny intersection – one of those magical little squares where two or three chairs outside each of 4 or 5 establishments – a gelato shop, a couple of bars, a club and a dress shop, I think – made up their own little conversation area as the world carried on all around them. This is what I will think of when I think of Mykonos town at night. Everyone out just for the sake of being out, enjoying the weather, enjoying the camaraderie, enjoying life.
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Old Jun 27th, 2011, 02:04 PM
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<< This is what I will think of when I think of Mykonos town at night. Everyone out just for the sake of being out, enjoying the weather, enjoying the camaraderie, enjoying life.>>
Dear tejana, you couldn't describe it better, Greece is exactly that !! I am so glad you could look behind the surface and discover the Greek spirit.
As for the lamb.... Greeks adore their meat overcooked....
Rare or medium rare in a taverna or restaurant where Greeks are eating is out of the question..
I remember how many times i used to argue with my mum, for wanting my meat medium.. or the spaghetti al dente.... ( which is also a dish that has to be overcooked in Greece...)
In restaurants serving new Greek or international cuisine,they will ask you how you want your meat cooked...
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Old Jun 27th, 2011, 04:07 PM
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>>This is what I will think of when I think of Mykonos town at night. Everyone out just for the sake of being out, enjoying the weather, enjoying the camaraderie, enjoying life<<

I so agree! Loved Mykonos and other islands we visited for that very reason. And, it is what is taking us back next May.

Love reading this so keep it coming. It's helping with my Greece withdrawals!
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Old Jun 28th, 2011, 02:07 PM
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Day 6 (Saturday) – On to Naxos!

Last morning in Mykonos. Sleep in, breakfast, pack, and check out at noon in anticipation of a 2:30 fast ferry to Naxos. I guess this is the problem with being here just before season, because the high-season morning ferry to Naxos isn’t running yet, and a boat in the middle of the day (even though it is just 40 minutes!) really eliminates the ability to do much of anything on either island. We take advantage of the last couple of hours to wander back through Mykonos town. Today is the only day of the week that Mykonos has ZERO cruise ships, and everyone who is staying –or living – on island is having a wonderful, calm, almost quiet day.

The problem with a 2:30 ferry is it is a little too early for lunch on Mykonos, but it could be a little late for lunch on Naxos. DH gets a gyro about 1:30 to tide him over, but I decide to wait. A quick ride to the ferry dock at 2 pm and we are there in plenty of time. To wait. And wait. The winds are up and the sea is choppy, but we’ve been assured that the fast cat is still running. Apparently it’s just running late. While waiting with the crowd, we spot a couple of young twenty-something girls wearing t-shirts from our alma mater, and strike up a conversation. Best friends, they just graduated from college and are on a 3 week tour of Europe before they start looking for jobs. You remember, that great pseudo-backpacking, hostels-are-kinda-fun, where-do-you-want-to-go-tomorrow trip that you can only take when you don’t yet have a care in the world and don’t mind sharing a bathroom with an entire floor. Ah, youth! Unlike us old folks, they have taken advantage of the Mykonos night life, and regale us with tales of the clubs. We chat a while, but lose track of them as the boat finally arrives and the Naxos-bound passengers are separated from those going on to Santorini. 40 minutes later (only about 20 minutes late), we dock in Naxos.

What a pretty town! With the Port Door to your left and the beautiful Naxos waterfront to your right as you exit the ferry dock, the entire effect is overwhelmingly welcoming. A cab to our hotel, and 10 minutes later we are at the steps of the Nissaki Beach Hotel (recommended on this board – thanks weadles!). The hotel is lovely, but I must say I’m less than awestruck with St. George beach. Actually, my first impression is that it sucks. Grey, dirty, silty sand, and it looks like (from watching the people that are swimming) you have to wade out about 100 yards to get any deeper than your ankles. This is a good beach? The room is absolutely lovely, though, although I’m not sure that the upgraded “view” (of the silty grey beach and the parking lot) is really worth it – poolside rooms might be better, or at least as good. The pool is very inviting, though, and you have to love the rough-hewn bright white Naxos marble that has been used throughout the pool and the pool area.

The ferry got in a little late, by now it is after 4 pm, and I’m starving (no lunch in Mykonos, remember!). We head to town to explore – only about a five minute walk along the seawall, and we are in the middle of the waterfront shopping and dining strip. The waterfront is beautiful, and we decide to eat at Meze Meze, a little restaurant on the strip that has been recommended to us by both the cab driver and the hotel. Lo and behold, they have fresh grilled calamari AND my favorite fresh calamaretti – my fried baby squidlets. We order one of each, and have a delightful late lunch. By now it is 5 pm, and there is no one around – the entire island seems to be taking siesta from 4 to 5 or so. It is probably a bad time to try to explore the town, but we do it anyway. Sure enough, while the little narrow streets behind the waterfront look charming, most of the shops are closed. And this is Saturday! Back to the hotel to take our own siesta.

At about 9 pm we head out to join the Saturday night strollers and see what Naxos town is really all about. The main strip is lively, but there is no one shopping or exploring in the little streets right behind the waterfront. After Mykonos, the lack of people in the otherwise-charming little lanes felt a little weird (bordering on eerie or even a little creepy). Enough shopping. Back to the waterfront for drinks before a much later dinner. Here we found a great bar that quickly became my favorite hangout of the entire trip - the Citron cocktail bar toward the southern end of the waterfront, where the open air tent has been furnished with couches and coffee tables and lovely chandeliers – a perfect little cocktail lounge to stop for a (long) while and have a drink and enjoy the water and people watching. And here’s where we get turned on to Citron, the Naxian home-town liqueur that tastes like a slightly weaker cousin of lemoncello, served with crushed ice and a lemon slice in a martini glass. Everyone in the world should have one of these every evening before dinner! When we finally do decide that we should eat, we just want something light (although a few of the fish menus on the strip look pretty good). A greek salad, pizza and a little red wine, and our first night in Naxos is complete.

(don't worry Naxos lovers, I promise that Naxos gets better on day two, but at the end of day one I'm feeling a little ambivalent about the place - but the Citron helped!)
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Old Jun 28th, 2011, 05:52 PM
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>>The hotel is lovely, but I must say I’m less than awestruck with St. George beach. Actually, my first impression is that it sucks. <<

Couldn't agree with you more on the beach. I really liked our room and pool at Nissaki but I did not want to get in the water on St. George. It reminded me of Coney Island or something like that. Now Plaka Beach was a completely different response. Beautiful *clear* water, soft pretty sand going on and on that was very enticing.

Looking forward to your next installment, tejana!
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Old Jun 28th, 2011, 06:28 PM
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Beachgirl - were you there at the same time? It really was a lovely pool (it seemed warmer than the pool in Mykonos - I'm not sure if it is a function of going farther south, or a few days later, or just getting used to it.) Please tell me you took advantage of the Citron bar on the waterfront! That is definitely one of my favorite bars on the planet for a nice place to relax before dinner.
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Old Jun 28th, 2011, 06:44 PM
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tejana, I think if you look back at comments by me, by Stanbr, by Greek-traveller & others ... we have usually recommended STAYING at St. George Beach hotel, because of its proximity to the attractions of NaxosTown (cafes shops nightlife), and ability to stroll back in minutes for a quiet night -- and to have a beach for a walk in the morning ... and then to BUS, or Drive or scooter out to a farther beach such as Plaka, for the serious swimming.

In May-June at least, a lot of us prefer this to the reverse choice, of staying out in Plaka and coming IN to Naxos Town. Taking a bus in to dinner, not my favorite thing, nor driving back in the dark after a glass of wine or 3. Also, altho I love swimming at Plaka and Ag. Prokopios (and this may just be me) I find the Naxos outer-beach accommodations, mainly built on the edge of fields and stands of bamboo, and rather treeless, shadeless, dusty whereas St. George has more landscaping, shade, cooler-feeling. That's just me.
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Old Jun 28th, 2011, 06:48 PM
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jan - I definitely agree with you. I would wholeheartedly recommend staying on St George for the proximity to Naxos town, particularly in the evening. But the beach itself still sucks. <g>
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Old Jun 28th, 2011, 07:55 PM
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Love your trip report! We were there in May and it's bringing back so many good memories. Naxos was our favorite island so I can't wait to read more.

Maybe it's coming up in the next part but did you make it to the Citron distillery? We enjoyed their free tasting.
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Old Jun 28th, 2011, 09:12 PM
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tejana, we were there Jan 2 to Jan 5 at Nissaki. When we go back to Naxos I think we'll stay at Plaka as that is where we seemed to migrate on this trip. I enjoyed the town but really enjoyed driving the countryside and hanging out at the beach at Plaka for a low-key portion of a busy vacation.

Regarding Citron Bar - funny you ask as it was on my "to do" list but we had so much fun at Plaka beach that day with a surprise wedding and enjoying good times with my husband we didn't make it. I don't regret it as that was a great day looking back. But, I'll be sure to go next trip.
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Old Jun 29th, 2011, 05:18 AM
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Geez, That should read We were there "June 2 to June 5th". I was multitasking late last night and didn't do so well on either!
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Old Jun 29th, 2011, 06:00 AM
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beachgirl - we only overlapped Saturday night at Nissaki. We were there June 4- 7. We did explore down by Plaka beach, but decided that Agios Prokopios was our favorite (that is coming up!).
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Old Jun 29th, 2011, 01:43 PM
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I was right around the corner, June 1 - 4.
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Old Jun 29th, 2011, 01:58 PM
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So nice that we all got to enjoy the same fabulous weather!
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Old Jun 29th, 2011, 02:38 PM
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>I really loved Mykonos - particularly Mykonos town - so much more than I expected to<

I loved it too tejana and would go back in an instant. I've never been in such a pretty town and thoroughly enjoyed visiting other parts of the island too. Amazing colors everywhere. It's a real pity some folks here regularly recommend against visiting the island.
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