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My trip to Cornwall, bookended by weekends in London

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My trip to Cornwall, bookended by weekends in London

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Old Oct 16th, 2016, 03:27 AM
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Thank you. You were so helpful when I was doing my initial planning and you may have been the one who warned me that even though I requested an automatic I might get a standard. So at least I was prepared and again I think the young man at enterprise was so relieved that I didn't freak out.

What a fun picture to have!
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Old Oct 16th, 2016, 07:48 AM
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After following on WFD, I was glad to find your full TR, Toucan2. How nice that you were able to combine family, work and friends! Thanks for all the links—very helpful.

The Pepys excerpt made me giggle! Cooking class with your goddaughter was such a super idea. You accomplished a great deal in the class.

Thank goodness for computers, eh? Advance booking, maps, tickets, etc. are waaay easier. Barbara Hepworth is an unknown artist to me, so I enjoyed googling her many pieces. I agree that some of her work looks like Moore's. You were brave to drive a manual with controls to the left! If I ever get to that area of England, your TR will be a big help. Great job, Toucan2! Oh, and good cider bravas!
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Old Oct 16th, 2016, 11:40 AM
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I'm glad you found it too Tdudette

<b>The Minack Theater and Meatloaf</b>

<b>The Minack</b>

The main event planned for the day was Peter Pan at the Minack. You have likely seen pictures of the Minack if you have ever looked into going to Cornwall, or possibly even if you haven't as it is truly spectacular and unique and often shows up in travel columns.

It is an outdoor theatre built into a cliff facing the Atlantic Ocean. We wanted to visit it (it is open to the public for touring when there isn't anything playing) but when I started looking into it I found that the last run of the season was finishing that very week and so we bought tickets for the Thursday matinee.

The history of the theatre is fascinating as well, basically built by hand by Rowena Wade and her gardeners.

And we got incredibly lucky. I wanted to go to the matinee as I wanted to see the sea, and it was an absolutely gorgeous (I believe I have mentioned that a time or two) day. Blue sky, deep blue ocean, white waves, seabirds (including gannets diving into the sea) rugged points of land piercing the sea. Oh, and the play.

It was put on by The Scary Little Girls, an all woman troupe. It was interesting and fascinating to see how they staged it in such a setting.

A's family joined us there, and a good time was had by all.

https://www.minack.com

http://www.scarylittlegirls.co.uk/about-us/

<b>The Meatloaf</b>

Thursday night was meatloaf. A had had it once before, made by an American friend she described as a lovely woman but perhaps not an inspired cook. I mixed it up while she chatted with me, and it is possible more cider was consumed.

Back in her kitchen we put the meatloaf in the oven and I prepared the salad my sister wanted. A's son made green beans and mashed potatoes and there may have been more but I can't remember.

I was a little nervous. What if they didn't like it!? As there remained only a two inch square out of a 9x11 pan, I think it came out okay.
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Old Oct 16th, 2016, 12:26 PM
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I have enjoyed reading the TR for new details about your trip to Cornwall.
It inspired me to go to youtube to see a favorite TV show based on a children's book called the Mousehole Cat--good aerial views of the coast at the beginning and of the preparation and eating of stargazy pie at the end
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3sOZT-n98s
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Old Oct 16th, 2016, 01:32 PM
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Thank you so much for sharing that vt! How sweet. And seeing an actual pie, well, that pie is quite something. Drawings don't do it justice.

I knew about the book, but have never seen that show. I loved it.
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Old Oct 16th, 2016, 02:12 PM
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I am glad you liked the show, Toucan. We taped it years ago when our kids were young and I still like to watch it at Christmas time. By myself now.
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Old Oct 16th, 2016, 02:21 PM
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I would love to see Mousehole at Christmas.

<b>The Lizard and a Final Dinner in Cornwall</b>

<b>Back to Penzance</b>

Well, the first order of the day was returning to Penzance to retrieve my phone from the cafe at Penlee House. Once I realized it was missing the day before, mentally retracing my steps identified where it was. A got a signal while we were visiting the Merry Maidens, called them, and sure enough they had it. Along with my almond pastry that I had carefully wrapped to take with me.

This did mean we had a little more time to walk around Penzance, and to go see The Egyptian House that we had not had time to see before.

It is described as a rare example of Egyptian style architecture, and is heavily decorated on the facade. You can stay there! Really fascinating and cool to see.

https://www.landmarktrust.org.uk/Sea...yptian-house1/

We window shopped a bit and I tried very very very hard to persuade A to buy this gorgeous Indian fabric but she did not succumb. Still think she should have bought it. Or maybe I should have!

We walked past down Moraab Road, admiring the homes, and the Residential Care Home that Sis thinks she wants to move into. Approaching Penlee House this way we saw additional gardens and an old cider millstone (which was huge!).

Phone and pastry retrieved, we were off to our next stop.

We had decided the night before that we wanted to focus on the area of Cornwall called The Lizard. This would take us to the southern most point of mainland England.

To be continued....
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Old Oct 16th, 2016, 02:53 PM
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What a great trip report. St. Michael's Mount was one of my very favorite things we did in Cornwall.
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Old Oct 16th, 2016, 03:11 PM
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Thank you Carolyn! Did you walk or take a boat over? I really think I would like to return to Cornwall.
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Old Oct 16th, 2016, 04:48 PM
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The Lizard, continued

<b>Porthleven</b>

I believe our next stop was Porthleven. I'm looking at a map to try to keep it all straight.

Porthleven has a huge double harbor, and we parked at the top of the harbour and walked alongside, and all the way out the end of the pier at the end. We passed cannons placed behind walls jutting out from both sides of the harbor, and you could imagine them protecting the town from attack. The entire side we walked down was lined with a row of white homes--maybe previously fishermen's homes?

The pier has a solemn warning sign against walking out when the red ball on a post at the end is raised, and of waves that could sweep over the pier, and you out to sea. It is a calm, beautiful day, and to the end we went. To the right, and to the left, the views are breathtaking. Rugged cliffs dropping to the sea, which is deep blue.

Turning to walk back we talk about what looks like a church at the base of the pier. Turns out it is actually the Porthleven Institute. We were talking about it because there is an iconic photo during a particularly vicious winter storm.

https://goo.gl/images/wb6Z67

Back we walked, and it was time for, wait for it, cappuccino!

Outside the cafe was a sign by the outdoor seating that said 'Beware. Seagulls are nesting so are stealing food. Please be careful, or eat inside '

We went inside.

Along with our coffees, we tried Bakewell tart (hearing Mary Berry saying frangipani in our heads). Yum.

On we went to our next stop. (I could be wrong but I think we also drive around Porthleven a bit)
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Old Oct 17th, 2016, 07:45 AM
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Lovely. Thank you.
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Old Oct 17th, 2016, 05:14 PM
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We walked across to St. MM, Toucan2. The host at our B&B (the Carnson House) in Penzance looked up the tide tables for us, and the people at the ticket booth on the isle were very careful in telling everyone what time they needed to start walking back. We took the bus from Penzance to Marazion.

Before our trip I read the book The Butler's Guide to Running the Home and Other Graces by Stanley Ager who was butler at the Mount for many years. I told one of the docents that, and she said they still consult that book when there is a question of the proper way to do something. It's very readable if you are interested. Has some packing tips, too.
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Old Oct 17th, 2016, 05:43 PM
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That book sounds very interesting Carolyn, thank you.

I am glad you are enjoying it lcboniti.

The Lizard, continued

<b>Poldhu, Lizard, and Cadgwith Cove</b>

<b>Poldhu</b>

I believe our next stop was Poldhu where we parked the car and walked out to the sandy beach. There was a small cafe off to the side, and a sign advertising surfing lessons. No surfers (or even much of a surf) that day, just a lovely small beach where I can imagine spending sunny summer days.

We might have driven out towards Kynance Cove next, although I can't quite remember as we did not get out and walk.

https://www.visitcornwall.com/beache...dhu-cove-beach

<b>The Old Cider Barn!</b>

We were zipping along towards Lizard when suddenly A spotted The Old Cider Barn and pulled off into the car park.

It was cider heaven! A whole wall of ciders, and you could do tastings. A and I tasted, and bought a little. I was also amused by the Poldark Cider (although I did not buy any) but I did buy the Poldark branded Cornish clotted cream caramels. I also bought some Cornish sea salt because I thought that would be a fun memento.

<b>Lunch in Lizard at The Top House and Serpentine</b>

We continued on to the village of Lizard, and lunch. We ate at The Top House pub, and surprisingly, I did not have cider. I thought after the several tastings at the old cider house that I should perhaps have a little water instead.

In a surprising turn of events, I can't quite remember what we ate. I think I had a sausage sandwich.

<b>Serpentine</b>

A had told us about Serpentine as we walked to the restaurant, so after lunch we stopped at a shop on the square to look at this beautiful stone. Serpentine can be found in other places, but this blog post describes why the stone at the lizard is special because of its color. It's a great post:

http://petelondon.blogspot.com/2013/...erpentine.html

It was lovely, but carrying rocks back as souvenirs seemed like a bad idea (although A was convinced that Sis' suitcase contained bricks). I tried to find a pendant or earrings that appealed but was unsuccessful. Sis bought a bracelet for her granddaughter.

The shopkeeper asked if we wanted to see the workshop so we squeezed past some boxes into a back room and it was very interesting to see some different works in process, and hear a little about the industry.

<b>Lizard Lighthouse</b>

On to the lighthouse--which was closed that day

Still, it was pretty to walk out and gaze out to sea. The signposts with mileage/km to all the different area lighthouses were fun. The Bishop Rock Lighthouse on the Isles of Scilly was 55 miles, the Sark Lighthouse in the Channel Islands, 130.

http://www.museumsincornwall.org.uk/...nwall-Museums/

You could walk down a path to a cafe down closer to the sea. We left sis sitting in a bench and walked just to an overlook. The cliffs were steep and jagged, beautiful. When we returned sis was being chatted up by an older gentleman and his dog. We whisked sis away and headed for Cadgwith Cove.

<b>Cadgwith Cove</b>

Any number of places we visited this week were worthy of more time, and I could have happily spent more time in each. Cadgwith Cove made it to the top of the list. I could have rested on a bench high above the sea all afternoon.

We left the car in the public car park and took the public footpath down into the village. We got to look into back gardens, and walk past a tiny church. In the distance were houses with some really unique thatched roads. Down into the village we went.

It's a small cove, and once again I felt like I was on a movie set. Crab pots, fishmonger, fishing boats pulled up to the shore, beautiful flowers, cottages with lovely gardens . We walked out on the promontory called the Todden, and it was hard to drag myself away.

But it was time to head for the barn(at Little Trefula that is ). C'mon, I waited all the way until now to use that line!

<b>The Greenbank Hotel - Falmouth</b>

For our last night in Cornwall we went with A and family to The Greenbank Hotel in Falmouth and we were lucky enough to arrive before sunset and could enjoy the view across the harbor. A variety of cocktails were consumed, and meals and apps included seafood hot pots, sea bass, risottos, crab and avocado apps.

The food was good, and the company better. A fitting end to our stay.

https://www.greenbank-hotel.co.uk

Next, back to London
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Old Oct 17th, 2016, 06:31 PM
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<b>Packing, Puttering, A Cornish Pasty, returning the rental car, and a train ride</b>

Sadly, our time in Cornwall had come to an end. We had to return the car to Truro and catch a train.

A note about the timing for the rental car pickup and drop off. One thing we did not anticipate was that no car rental place was open in Truro on a Sunday. And, they did not allow drop off if the place was closed. We were able to arrange a pickup on the Sunday we came down, and that is why we went with the tour on Monday with Tim taking us back via Truro and the car rental agency. But it also meant we had to end our stay in Cornwall on the Saturday, before they closed. It was somewhat limiting.

So Saturday morning was finishing packing, and spending a little time with our hosts. I was interested in their gardens so we took a wander, and they treated us to a Cornish Pasty for lunch.

Then it was off to Truro, with leftover pasty, apples, and Bakewell tarts to carry us through. The drop off was smooth, and they only charged me pump rate for the half tank of gas I had used. They took us to the train station, we boarded our train, and five hours later we disembarked, walked out of the station, turned right, and walked into the Hilton.

Easy peasy.

We were a bit travel fatigued so we just ate in the hotel. I would say that the food was a step above a lot of hotel food.

Next, Evensong at Westminster Abbey.
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Old Oct 18th, 2016, 04:24 PM
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<b>More Packing, lunch at Wagamama, Evensong</b>

Sunday was pretty laid back. Breakfast at the hotel, walked over to the station to scope out the Heathrow Express (where the ticket agent failed to tell me that we could only buy same day tickets and there was no sign that we could see) then reorganizing bags as I had picked up the left backpack and at the same time was taking out gifts to take to the kids.

Sis had by now been gone from home for a month and elected to decompress and prepare herself to go home by staying on her own and taking a walk to Kensington Gardens.

I hopped on the tube and met my friends and goddaughter for lunch at one of the many Wagamamas. We had a nice visit and I distributed some of the gifts. We had a nice walk over to Westminster Abbey and stopped and consumed the entire box of chocolates I had brought as a gift for V.

The boys are in the choir (and the Westminster Choir School) and we went to the 3 pm Sunday Evensong service so I could hear them sing, and see them after.

As family (I guess godmother qualifies) we got to sit in the Quire, right next to the choir. As they are seated on both sides, I was able to face them and watch them sing.

Even without knowing some of the choristers it was an incredible experience. I still get awed by the history. To my left I could see where Queen Elizabeth was crowned. And those beautiful pure voices in that amazing space.

In the middle picture on this link you can see where the boys sit. We were just beside them.

http://www.westminster-abbey.org/choir-school

We met them in the Deans Yard after, I distributed the remaining gifts, we took some pictures, and then took a walk and got a cup of tea. The boys were back for supper, and as L had driven in that morning with the boys, they gave me a ride back to the hotel on their way back out of London.

Sis and I had a final meal in the hotel, we tried to find Doc Martin or Midsomer Murders on tv (no luck) went to sleep, then it was up and out in the morning. I needed to leave by 7, sis a little later.

Easy peasy back to Heathrow on the Heathrow Express, easy check in, one last cappuccino and home I flew.
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Old Oct 18th, 2016, 04:41 PM
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>>As family (I guess godmother qualifies) we got to sit in the Quire, right next to the choir. As they are seated on both sides, I was able to face them and watch them sing. <<

What a great experience . . .
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Old Oct 18th, 2016, 05:58 PM
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Toucan2, Loved the trip report! I did lol at some of your exploits. I think your sis might have passed out in the car and so only squeaked 3 times or you're an expert driver. Those Cornish roads are not for the faint hearted in rush hour!

I'm a Moore/Hepworth fan too and it you're ever in NOLA you can see some of their work at the Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Park which is a beautiful garden too.

The Minack is on my bucket list so I'm very envious!
I've wanted to go for such a long time but Cornwall is so out of the way (those little roads again!) that I haven't even make it to the county since 1999... I'm hoping when I move back to the UK in December that I will finally find the time to visit.

How lovely to attend Evensong at Westminster Abbey! Good advice about London too, I'll add that buying Heathrow Express tickets online way ahead of time is the best/cheapest way to go.

And you're a cider girl too!
Try Old Mout next time if you like the flavoured version. The bottles are huge!
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Old Oct 18th, 2016, 06:53 PM
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Janisj, it was very special.

Sassy_cat, those first 15 minutes of driving were definitely trial by fire! But you can understand why I avoided rush hour the rest of the week

Thank you re the tip on NOLA

Old Rosie was my favorite of the ones I tried, followed by Rattler. I probably need to go back and continue the Great England Cider Tour

Lucky you moving back to England. I am definitely enamored of Cornwall, and already plotting my return.
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Old Oct 18th, 2016, 08:48 PM
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Lucky you moving back to England. I am definitely enamored of Cornwall, and already plotting my return.>>

hooray - I only just found this, can you imagine? you must have thought that I was doing it on purpose.

Lovely report, toucan - I almost feel as if I were there with you!
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Old Oct 19th, 2016, 05:56 AM
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Thanks for this lively report. My wife is also a cider fan. On our trip to Devon and Cornwall we always sampled the local "scrumpy." Near Tavistock (I think) we stopped at a farm advertising cider. The farmer took us to his barn, where he had about eight huge casks, which ranged from extra sweet to extra dry. "Do you like it dry or sweet?" he asked.

"Oh, dry," we assured him. He gave us a sample and laughed as our lips puckered.

"Ah, you're used to factory cider," he said. "I know what you want." He then blended us a gallon of deliciously balanced cider. Would love to go back!
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