cboris

I apologize for the length of this post. I've planned a last minute trip to San Sebastian with my husband. I normally love planning trips and have spent hours and hours on this board to plan trips going back to the early 2000's. As this is a last minute trip, I haven't had as much time to research as I would like. I've gathered the info below from various message boards and articles, but some of them may have been 5-10 years old, so please let me know if you find something here that is closed or no longer well regarded. I zeroed in on kimhe's advice on a lot of threads - thank you!

We're in our early 40's, and enjoy eating, shopping and just walking around and soaking it all in.. We'll be in San Sebastian for 7 nights starting next week. I know we're almost certainly too late to get reservations for some restaurants like Arzak and Mugaritz, but I've already contacted the concierge at Hotel Londres Y Angleterrre to enquire. I don't plan to do everything on this list, but I like to have options. We will pre-book dinners and I will plan ahead for day trips to Bilbao & Guggenheim and Getaria and play the rest by ear.

One specific question - I forgot Martin Berasategui on my list of restaurants to the concierge. How would you rank Arzak, Mugaritz and Martin Berasategui? Are any of the others I listed below at this level? I felt like the others are still delicious and upscale but not as much as an event as these 3. If we had to choose just one or 2 of these 3, which should we choose?

Any glaring omissions in the following?

Sights to explore:
• New Town on either side of Avenida de la Libertad – architecture
• Old Town – Parte Vieja
• Hike at Mt. Urgell – overlooking parte vieja
• Park of Palacio Miramar on La Concha
• Palacio Aiete – Franco’s palace
• Plaza de Guipuzcoa
• Mont Igueldo – funicular & fun fair
• Zurriola beach
• Food markets – La Bretxa & San Martin
• Pasai Donibane/San Juan – stunning 2-3 hour walk/hike

Pintxos Bars – before lunch & dinner – weekends 12:30 pintxos, 2:30 lunch; 8 pintxos, 10 pm dinner; weekdays, lunch 1:30-4; dinner 9-12
• Bar La Cepa (70 year old – ham)
• Casa Gandarias
• A Fuego Negro (contemporary)
• A Stelena (NYT)
• La Cuchura de San Telmo (NYT)
• Goiz-Argi – prawn skewers
• San Marcial (next door to hotel)
• Casa Vallés – one of kimhe’s faves - very traditional basque

Restaurants
• Mugaritz – 5th best restaurant in world
• Arzak – 3 Michelin stars – 10 tables
• Martin Berasategui – LaSarte – 15 minutes outside SS
• Ni Neu – Kursaal – Stylish dinner
• Narru – Pared down – unpretentious
• Bodegan Alejandro – Stellar Basque cuisine
• Lunchtime prix fixe recommendations: La Cueva, La Cepa, Casa Vergara, La Muralla (more upscale) Casa Urbano
• Casa Urola – kimhe’s fave Michelin starred restaurant

Bars/clubs
• Upscale nightclub in basement of café Victoria – Victoria Eugenia theater

Day Trips
• Getaria – 15 minutes away – fabulous seafood restaurants
o Museo Chillida-Leku – outdoor sculpture park
o Txomin Extaniz winery – make reservations
• Laguardia – Rioja
• Bilbao – Guggenheim
• Biarritz
• Pamplona

Shopping
• Ayestaran – stylish leather shoes
• Kukuxumusu – goofy cartoons
• Viva la vida – playful original graphic designs

Thanks in advance!!
Christine

dweislaw

The view from Monte Igueldo was fantastic so I would highly recommend catching the funicular and going up top. As far as pintos bars, my only additions would be La Vina for cheesecake and Borda Berri for beef cheeks.

suec1

Are you renting a car - have you arranged for parking? just curious. Your trip sounds fantastic.

There is also a very user friendly city bike rental system - we did that one day, lots of fun.

Do you have specific rainy day plans? The aquarium is very pleasant if you need a day to take shelter. Have a great trip!

Robert2016

We visit Donostia every summer and were there in Jan. for Tamborrada (and great dining)

Casa Urola doesn't have a Michelin star. It has two Repsol suns.
It's our favorite in Lo Viejo for tapas and its torrija is our favorite dessert.

The brand new '16 (and always controversial) World's best Restaurant List ranks Mugaritz at number 7, Extebarri at #10, Arzak at #21 and M.B. at #59.

We put the SS Michelin stars in this order but it's a very personal preference-

Mugaritz (but it's very cerebral, pushing the enevelope, and this year most of the 25 mini plates are to be eaten without cutlery--a finger food tasting menu)
Akelare (for the stunning views)
Martín Berasategui (especially for the tasting menu of MB's greatest hits)
Zuberoa (in a beautiful farmhouse and the one that's the most traditional)
Arzak (the most name recognition, and the only one of the "big 5" that's in town)
Kokotxa (the most likely to have a last minute table)

Mirador de Ulía also has a Michelin star, but we haven't been yet.

Now most are booked several months in advance and several require a credit card deposit.

Etxebarri in Axpe just told us today that they are completely booked until October.

So instead of one of the big 5, chances are that you'll need to choose a less in demand Repsol sun instead, one of the up-and-coming stars, the "new generation", members of Sukatalde.
Of these, we like very much
Xarma
Narru
Casa Urola

Emebe Garrote is a Martín Berasategui creation, a re-invented cider house, quite good.

Rekondo has one of the best wine lists in Europe and is a yearly winner of the Wine Spectator award. Beautiful outdoor terrace overlooking Ondarreta beach.

Favorite good values for lunch with prix fixe:
Narru (and a solid value prix fixe on weekday evenings)
Bodegón Alejandro (Mugaritz connection)
Casa Urepel (recently reopened)
Ni Neu
La Muralla and La Fábrica (same group)
Casa Urbano-Patxi Aizpuru

Our favorite Old Quarter pintxos bars, again very subjective list:
Ganbara (gamba y espárrago rebozados)
Casa Urola (everything is wonderful)
Borda Berri
La Cuchara de San Telmo (foie)
A Fuego Lento (whimsical)
Néstor (for the tortilla that comes out twice a day, at 1 and 8 pm--call ahead to reserve a slice--or sit and have a chuletón and salad at its one table)
Goiz-Argi (terrific shrimp brochette)

downtown:
Antonio Bar (not so well known and just fantastic in every way)
Zazpi (with young new chefs)
Kata4 Oyster Bar

in Gros:
Hidalgo 56
Bodegón Donostiarra (individual tortillas and skewers)
Bar Bergara (one of the best in the entire city)
Casa Vallés (the home of the gilda and an institution)

Bars-Clubs:
Museo del Whisky (go at 11 pm, grab a table in the basement, live music until 2 am or later)
La Madame, that becomes La Madame Music Club Lounge on Fri/Sat nights

We buy shoes at Ayestarán, gourmet treats at Aitor Lasa, Basque linens at Euskal Linge.

For Getaria, we dine at Elkano or its sister, Kaia Kaipe or Asador Astillero (of the Iribar family). Reservations at Elkano need to be made usually far in advance.

kja

"Pasai Donibane/San Juan – stunning 2-3 hour walk/hike"

That walk took me closer to 4 hours, one way (I took a bus back) -- maybe because I stopped too often to take pictures? ;-) Once there, I had a delicious lunch at the Restaurante Txulotxo
http://www.restaurantetxulotxo.com

In Bilboa, I loved the Museo de Bellas Artes and Museu Vasco. In Donostia itself, I was very glad to visit the Museu San Telmo.

As another day trip (or on the way to/from Bilbao), you might consider the Puente Colgante (Biscaya Bridge) in Getxo, the Painted Forest of Oma, and / or Lekeitio.

Enjoy!

Robert2016

A current price check for Donostia restaurants-
Akelaŕe - 3 Michelin stars, 3 Repsol suns (www.akelarre.net)
Tasting menus: €175 + 10% vat

Mugaritz - 2 Michelin stars, 3 Repsol suns (www.mugaritz.com)
Tasting menus: €185

Zuberoa - 2 Michelin stars, 3 Repsol suns (www.zuberoa.com)
Tasting menu: €130

Martín Berasategui - 3 Michelin stars, 3 Repsol suns (www.martinberasategui.com)
Grand tasting menu: €210

Arzak - 3 Michelin stars, 3 Repsol suns (www.arzak.es)
Average price: c199 + drinks and v.a.t. Tasting menu: €205

Mirador de Ulía- 1 Michelin star, 2 Repsol suns (http://www.miradordeulia.es)
Tasting menu: €99

Kokotxa- 1 Michelin star, 2 Repsol suns (www.restaurantekokotxa.com)
Tasting menus: €58 and €82

We've never done the Donostia to Paisai long hike, but we've driven there multiple times on the Jaizkibel road from Hondarribia and have enjoyed meals at Txulotxo and Casa Cámara.
That said, we prefer a day trip to Hondarribia, both for its upscale, highly picturesque, photogenic fishing village atmosphere and fabulous food every where you look, including Michelin starred Alameda and the fantastic pintxos bars on pedestrian, bar lined Calle San Pedro, including the annual pintxos competition award winner, Gran Sol.

And if you are interested in Basque culture, the Museo
Vasco and the San Telmo in Donostia are very worth your time, as kja notes, also a metro trip to Las Arenas in Bilbao for a view of the Puente Colgante or a river trip up to the Puente Colgante on a Bilboboat. (http://www.bilboats.com/en).

kja

@ Robert:

IMDonehere

For a change of pace, you might want to visit of the siderias in the hills outside of Donostia.

http://www.sansebastianturismo.com/e...t/cider-houses

kimhe

Seems like you got most of it covered ;-) And wow, to stay at the Londres!

Second the idea of three Michelin star Akelarre for lunch, if you can get a table. Stunning views and fantastic food. Had a lunch never to forget here a couple of years ago.

Try to get a table at Casa Urola. No Michelin stars (two Repsol suns), but the major regional newspaper El Diario Vasco voted it best restaurant in Guipuzkoa last year (Premio Más Gastronomía 2015), ahead of all the Michelin star restaurants. http://www.casaurolajatetxea.es/es/b...a-2015_11.html

And fabulous pintxos bar on the ground floor: http://allaboutfoodmag.com/de_pintxos-en-casa-urola/

And kja, you must have taken a lot of pictures on your way to Donibane/Pasajes San Juan, and of course a camera could come to good use here ;-) But even if it's climby, it's only some 4 miles from the heart of San Sebastián, and can't remember it have ever taken us any longer than a couple of hours.

And if you can't get tables in your preferred restaurants, remember that the greatest chef in the world the past decade, Ferran Adrià of El Bulli, said that San Sebastián was the best place to eat in the world "in terms of the average quality of the food, in terms of what you can get at any place you happen to walk into". http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandst...rink.shopping2

The best San Sebastián nights are perhaps those that are not so well planned. Don't remember how we last time in October ended up in the back in La Cepa with a plate of the best ham in the world and a grilled mushroom with roasted pine nuts and raw egg yolk dish to die for, and great companions and plenty of txakolí...

cboris

Wow, you are all so helpful! So many quick and helpful replies!

Suec1 - I heard that driving in SS is not so easy and many people mentioned the bus. We've both driven and taken trains in Europe, buses are new to me, but I'm hoping we can figure it out. For fancy meals outside of SS I might look into a taxi or hiring a driver through the hotel. I am aware about the rain. My husband and I joke that we are rained on during every vacation, even in very dry places, so we're mentally prepared, but I had not made specific plans. Will add aquarium and Museo San Telmo to my list. I'll take anyone else's rainy day ideas.

Robert - I appreciate your price checks! As I suspected, Mugaritz is fully booked. Our concierge said Arzak is closed for holiday! So sad, but this will save me money. I appreciate your ranking of the Michelin starred places since we will need to move to plan B and then maybe plan C. I hadn't heard of the Repsol sun ratings, so I thank you for helping me with that. I do remember hearing many mentions of Hondarribia so I will add that to my day trip list, as well as the rest of your sightseeing recommendations. And thank you so much for bars/night clubs and shopping recommendations! I'll print your post and bring it with me.

Kimhe - you're the genesis of many of my ideas! Casa Urola is closed today so I don't know if I can get a table. Sigh - last minute trip planning is difficult! But I had it on my list from your previous mentions, so I'll check again when they are open. Also, before I read your advice, I did want to mention to all of you that I do hope some of my reservation requests don't work out, because I'd love to just wander into some place that looks good and fun. I can't eat 14 course meals all week!

You're all so wonderful, thank you!

Robert2016

There is another option for Michelin starred dining that I mentioned in another thread. It's the "pop up" restaurant from Michelin-starred French chef Helene Darroze (Paris & London) that will be in the María Cristina Hotel this summer and through October. She has a summer home in the Landes and grandmother was from Hendaye and has always wanted to cook in the Basque Country.

Don't be too disappointed if you can't get into any of the Plan A Michelin stars, since the Plan B with Repsol suns are just great. I suspect that Xarma will be the next to be bestowed a Michelin star, and its lunch prix fixe is a steal.

And forgot to mention what we think is a terrific pintxos and small plates wine bistro:
Vinoteca Bernardina, which gets very few tourists, located behind the NH Aránzazu Hotel in Antiguo.
Very well -heeled clientele, so interesting people watching and great small dishes, like the tempura vegetables, Joselito Iberian ham, mini burgers and individual tortillas. Friendly, lovely ladies who run this cozy place.
http://www.vinotecabernardina.com

You can see the full list of Spain Repsol suns for 2016 here-

http://www.gastroeconomy.com/2015/12...a-repsol-2016/

And its Michelin stars here-
http://www.gastroeconomy.com/2015/11...helin-en-2016/

Vonse

Wow, what a great time you're going to have! I can only add that I really enjoyed the Balenciaga museum in Getaria and second the recommendation for Bar Nestor (one of the best steaks I've ever had).

ilsabing

bookmarking... so great!!

ekscrunchy

TTT

cboris

Hi all,

Update, both Arzak and Casa Urola are closed for holidays for the entire time I'm in San Sebastian! Very sad!

I have dinner reservations at Narru and Bodegan Alejandro and lunch reservations at Martin Berasategui and Elkano. I'm going to reread all of your suggestions and my original notes, but I think I'll leave the rest of my time open - reading the Guardian article Kimhe linked to definitely convinced me I'll do fine just wandering around. Plus I think we'll do a few day trips since we have 6 full days and it'll be good to have flexibility.

We leave tonight, I'll report back! Thanks again to all of you.