rudy

I just returned from a fabulous cruise on the Volga, Svir, and Neva Rivers. Because we always plan our own trips and like to travel on our own time schedules, we were hesitant to try river cruising, but because we had never been to Russia before, we thought we'd give it a try. It turned out to be a very pleasant surprise, and a great way to see St. Petersburg, Moscow, and several towns in the Golden Ring.<BR><BR>We booked our trip with Viking River Cruises, and sailed on the Viking Kirov. Having never cruised before, I can't compare it to the big cruise ships, but the Kirov was wonderful. It had two restaurants, two bars, a reading room which they called the library, a shop where one could purchase postcards, stamps, toiletries, and some souvenirs, a hairdresser, doctor on board, and a sauna. There was also a sundeck with umbrella tables and chairs.<BR><BR>Cruising on the rivers was slow and easy, and very relaxing. Because we were always close to shore, we were able to see much of the beautiful countryside, and had ample opportunities to photograph many exquisite and colorful onion-domed churches. We were thrilled to experience traveling through dozens of locks along the way.<BR><BR>I will continue this report and will be happy to answer questions as well.

Gary

I also just completed a river cruise on the Litvinov from Rostov-on-Don to Moscow. Uniworld uses the ship for many of there cruises from Moscow to St Petersburg. An easy and comfortable way to se this part of Russia.

rudy

My Russian river cruise continued...<BR><BR>Life on board the Viking Kirov was fun. We were glad that we had opted for the deluxe cabin rather than the standard, although one spends so little time in the cabin that it probably would have been o.k. Our deluxe cabin was really nice. We had two beds, a sleep sofa, two large picture windows that opened, individually controlled heat and a/c, a small refrigerator, large closet, and a wall of cubicles where we could store our luggage, folded clothing, shoes, souvenirs, and other items.<BR><BR>Each cabin was assigned to one of the two restaurants, and we could sit wherever and with whomever we wanted for each meal, which was great because we were able to meet lots of nice people. Included were three meals each day. Breakfast was a bountiful buffet, which also included a table to serve oneself champagne, and an omelet chef who would make omelets to personal specifications. Lunches and dinners included free red or white wine, and there was no limitation on how many glasses. Beer, soda, and bottled water cost two dollars extra. We were never given a choice of menu for lunch, which wasn't a problem. A few nights we were given a choice of two entrees for dinner. Lunch and dinner started with a salad, then soup, then an entree with veggies on the side, finishing up with dessert with either coffee or tea. All meals were delicious and ample. On three evenings, we had a "theme" dinner: the Viking dinner, the Russian dinner, and the sailor's dinner. The waitresses would dress in theme costumes, and the meal would be appropriate to that theme. Most people dressed casually for dinner, wearing what they had worn that day. Two evenings were considered "dressy", meaning that most men wore a tie and jacket, and women wore a nice dress or pant suit. The two "dressy" evenings were the captain's welcoming champagne cocktail party and then dinner, and the farewell party. Coffee was available from 6 a.m. each morning, and both coffee and tea were available on a serve yourself basis throughout each day.<BR><BR>Nightly entertainment on board included a classical pianist in one bar, a Russian folk group in the other bar, and movies in the library. On one evening, the crew entertained us with a variety show. On another evening, passengers presented us with a show, which they had rehearsed with some of the guides.<BR><BR>During afternoons when we weren't out touring, we were given opportunities to tour the captain's bridge, the chef's kitchen, and the engine room. We also attended wonderfully informative lectures by an expert on Russian history, took Russian language lessons, and heard prep talks about the port we would visit the following day. Fun activities also included games like bingo, and, if we wanted to pay a bit more, optional activities such as caviar tasting and vodka tasting. <BR><BR>A photographer videotaped the entire trip, and we could buy the video at the end of the trip.<BR><BR>We were given a booklet which explained all the sights we would see along the rivers and lakes, which we loved, because there were many wonderful things to see. A thrill for us was when we moved into the dozens of locks along the way, and we could read all about that particular lock. Each evening, we were given a written itinerary of the next day's activities.<BR><BR>Almost everyone on board spoke English, some more fluently than others. We found that the people who had to deal with passengers the most spoke the best English; for example, the waitresses. All the guides spoke perfect English. They were the best thing about the entire trip. Fluent, brilliant, witty and entertaining, they were a fount of knowledge on Russian history, culture, and the arts. They were obviously very well educated and trained to be guides. They met us upon arrival and stayed with us until we departed. More about them and about the tours later.

rudy

My Russian river cruise continued...<BR><BR>Our trip began upon arrival in St. Petersburg. After moving through passport control, we were met by our Viking Rivers tour guides, who were easy to spot carrying flags and wearing bright red jackets with the Viking logo. We were told that if we were carrying less than $1400 we could proceed to the baggage area, and would not have to pass through customs. Since our cruise was completely paid for except for any optionals we might purchase and for souvenirs, we had less than that amount, moved quickly to the baggage area, and retrieved our luggage with no problems. (We were carrying $1000 for the two of us, and returned home with several hundred dollars.)<BR><BR>When everyone had retrieved their luggage, we were led to busses which would take us directly to the boat. It couldn't have been easier or more hassle free. We found it amusing (but nice) that a welcoming band played the national anthems of each group arriving. In just the few moments between boarding our bus and departing from the airport, we heard the national anthems of the U.S.A., England, Canada, and France.<BR><BR>It took about a half hour to get from the airport to the river port. Upon arrival at the boat, we were greeted by another band playing our national anthem, Russian folk singers, and small glasses of a welcoming drink of, what else--vodka!<BR><BR>We were given our keys immediately, our luggage was delivered to our cabins within minutes, and we were able to unpack (only once!) and begin our adventure. I was amazed at how seamlessly and trouble-free everything went. Though we weren't prevented from walking ashore, we preferred to explore the boat first, rest a bit, and then get dressed for dinner. The boats are not docked in a "historical" or picturesque area of St. Petersburg, so we didn't feel the lure of venturing out, although we did a few nights later. Most passengers ambled back to their cabins on that first night for much needed sleep. More about St. Petersburg tomorrow.

Art

Thanks Rudy. Looking forward for more. A Russian river cruise is on my to do list.<BR>

rudy

My Russian river cruise continued...<BR><BR>Our three days spent docked in St. Petersburg were fantastic, and just enough to whet our appetites for more, so I guess we'll have to go back again.<BR><BR>Looking over my notes, I still can't believe that we managed to fit so much in. On our first day, we were given a bus tour of the entire city to get us oriented. Initial impressions were that the city is exotic and more beautiful than we had imagined it to be. We were agog when we saw the beautiful onion domed churches and cathedrals. <BR><BR>During our stay, we visited the Peter and Paul Fortress, which I believe is the oldest building in St. Petersburg, toured the Russian Museum which houses an incredible collection of Russian art from icons to art through the 20th century, and toured the Peterhof, nicknamed the "Russian Versailles", with its impressive rooms and remarkable 2500 acres of gorgeous flowers and fountains.<BR><BR>We spent an exhausting but exhilarating several hours touring the Hermitage Museum, not enough time to be sure, but our guide packed in as much as possible, with thorough explanations that added immensely to our enjoyment. <BR><BR>We traveled about 20 miles outside the city to Pushkin to tour the exquisite Catherine's Palace.<BR><BR>One evening we went to the Hermitage Theatre, built for Catherine the Great, to see the ballet "Gizelle". <BR><BR>Optionals that we took advantage of included a folklore show presented by the song and dance team of the Russian army. It was obviously geared for tourists' enjoyment, but wonderful nonetheless. We were also given the option to take a shuttle bus downtown to the historic district to experience St. Petersburg on our own. We saw St. Isaac's Cathedral, Nevsky Prospekt, the Moscow Hotel where we had lunch, and the Tikhvinskoye Cemetery, where some of the greatest Russian composers and writers are buried. continued later...

rudy

My Russian river cruise continued...<BR><BR>On our final afternoon in St. Petersburg, we opted to take a canal cruise. This was so much fun, and gave us the chance to see St. Petersburg from a different perspective. The tour took us around the rivers and canals of the aptly nicknamed "Venice of the North", and was narrated by one of the Viking tour guides. When we embarked, we were given champagne, fruit, and there were bottle of vodka on each table inside. We could also sit outside, but were cautioned to keep our heads low when going under bridges. This was a romantic, informative, and lazy way to while away a few hours while seeing the palaces, cathedrals and mansions along the banks.<BR><BR>Later, we returned to ourat and struck out on our own for a walk in the parklike setting across from the docks, and also along some of the streets, where we discovered a small grocery store. We stocked up on huge bottles of Evian water (only $2 each) Russian beer (delicious) and snack foods (which we realized only later that we were never hungry for). It was great fun to be the only non-Russians in the store, attempting to use what little of the language we knew with people who couldn't (or maybe wouldn't) speak English. <BR><BR>We had been told that it is illegal to use U.S. currency in Russia, but found that street venders were all too willing to accept our dollars. We were glad that we had brought about one hundred one dollar bills, which we almost used up by the end of the two weeks, tipping and paying for small souvenirs, etc., on the streets. Our dollars were gladly accepted everywhere.<BR><BR>On our final evening in St. Petersburg, we had the Captain's cocktail party, complete with champagne and entertainment. We were introduced to the captain and his crew, then had a lovely dinner while sailing away from St. Petersburg, to begin our cruise.<BR><BR>More later...

Dolores

Rudy,<BR><BR>Fantastic report! Even tho' hubby and I are on a Uniworld, rather than Viking, trip next Sept. we loved reading your report - very informative! Please keep posting! May we email you directly with questions?<BR><BR>Dolores

Al

Three cheers for Rudy! What a fine report, filled with details and important facts. We tried to write you directly, but our mail was returned. Suffice to say, your contribution is much appreciated.

rudy

My Russian river cruise continued...<BR><BR>Thanks, both Dolores and Al. I'd prefer to answer questions in this public forum, and I do appreciate your responses.<BR><BR>As we sailed away from St. Petersburg, we had some time to catch our breath and review all that we had experienced. It might help others planning a trip that several of the buildings were indeed undergoing restorations and renovations in preparation for the tricentennial in 2003, and there was a good deal of scaffolding. However, this in no way detracted from the beauty of the city. Several buildings and monuments had completed the restorations done on them, and were unbelievably exquisite, with gleaming golden domes and fresh paint. <BR><BR>Traffic was a problem, and was even worse in Moscow. (More about Moscow later.) It took a long time to get from point A to point B. Frankly, though I'm sure that the tricentennial will be incredible, I'm glad that we went this year instead of next. Our guide told us that Russia was expecting a massive influx of tourists next year, and I can't imagine both Moscow and St. Petersburg, as well as the smaller cities, being more crowded with autos and tourist busses.<BR><BR>The White Nights Festivals and celebrations must be fantastic. Though we missed them by traveling a bit earlier in the spring, we were delighted that we could walk the streets exploring under bright sun until 11 p.m., and that we could stand on deck and watch the sun go down at midnight. Our cabins had heavy blackout shades which we used, because the sun came up around 3 a.m. or so. Maybe it was the thrill of being in Russia, or maybe it was the 22+ hours of daylight, but we seemed to need fewer hours of sleep; a good thing, because there was much to be seen.<BR><BR>

kk

Rudy, please do continue. I've been to Russia many times but never on a river cruise. Sounds wonderful. kk

rudy

My Russia river cruise continued...<BR><BR>Thanks, Kendall. You're right; the river cruise was a great way to travel. We only unpacked once, and we were able to travel from St. Petersburg to Moscow in an efficient, relaxing manner. We also had the benefit of experienced, highly educated guides with us who were always willing to explain the sights in detail, along with the history of what we were seeing. <BR><BR>Seeing the medieval towns along the way offered a rare insight into how people are living away from the two large cities. At times, we felt that we could have been travelers in the 1700's, after seeing the tiny villages that lie on the banks of the rivers.<BR><BR>After leaving St. Petersburg, we traveled the Neva (pronounced Nay-Vah') heading toward Lake Ladoga (pronounced Lah'-doh-gah). The journey passes through some beautiful landscapes, and the further away that we traveled from St. Petersburg, the more natural the scenery became. <BR><BR> Because we were traveling north, we could feel the air getting cooler. Also, because of its proximity to the Baltic Sea, the climate is damp. Combining the cooler air with the dampness resulted in wet snow. Even though we had been in shirt sleeves with nothing more than a light jacket in St. Petersburg, we needed a heavier jacket and something on our heads. I was even wishing that I had packed a pair of gloves. It felt raw for the end of May. continued...

Dolores

Rudy,<BR><BR>Your report is fantastic! Keep up the great work!!

rudy

My Russian river cruise continued...<BR><BR>Thanks again, Dolores. Lake Ladoga is Europe's largest lake. When we entered it, we felt as if we were on the ocean, because it was so vast, and the shore had disappeared. It had become quite cold. Most passengers were wearing heavy sweaters or jackets on deck, as well as hats, scarves, and gloves. We were supposed to spend an entire day cruising, leaving the southern end of Lake Ladoga, going north on the Svir River and into Lake Onega, which I believe is the second largest lake in Europe. This area is the home of many varieties of birds and other wildlife. Most of the people who live in these areas are involved in the timber industry. We could see large barges with huge piles of lumber all along the river. I was frequently startled to see tree trunks and other unidentifiable flotsam floating by, and wondered if this made navigation dangerous.<BR><BR>On board, there was much activity to keep us busy while we sailed. There were two lectures, a bingo game, a quiz game, and a physical fitness class on the sun deck. We were surprised when it was announced that the captain had decided to give us an unscheduled shore visit to a town called Mandroguy. <BR><BR>Mandroguy is supposed to be a town modeled in the style of an old Russian village. It appears to exist solely for tourists, but was a nice diversion nevertheless. We were free to explore, and soon discovered the small buildings which housed various souvenir shops. The souvenirs appeared to be of fairly good quality, and were what one would expect: stacked dolls, lacquered boxes, etc. There was a Vodka Museum where we could taste the different varieties and flavors of vodka. Several of us chose to purchase pepper vodka, made of chili peppers. It's quite "hot". We were told that this is a favorite of many Russians. One gent told us that it helps in making terrific Bloody Marys.<BR><BR>

rudy

My Russian river cruise continued...<BR><BR>We were very cold that day, so we tried the pepper vodka. After tasting it, we felt like our ears were ringing. Zowee!<BR><BR>There was also a building on the shore which was beautifully constructed. One of the guides mentioned that President Putin had stayed there on a few occasions. It seemed odd that he would vacation there, but then I remembered how the Russian people love to visit their "dachas" on weekends and for vacations. We saw many dachas on the cruise, some quite magnificent and others no more than shacks with no plumbing or electricity.<BR><BR>Our next port on the itinerary was the island of Kizhi, which is in the north of Lake Onega. We woke early in the morning and peered out our cabin windows to see an eerily beautiful sight, the imposing Cathedral of the Transfiguration. The Cathedral has 22 domes, and is fashioned entirely out of aspen wood. Built in 1714, it is sometimes referred to as "the fairy tale church" because of its stunning beauty. In the early morning sunlight, the 22 wooden onion-shaped domes glinted like silver, and reflected brilliant colors. The sight was breathtaking, and we were so glad that our cabin was on the side of the boat where we could see it as we pulled into port. It also offered an unparalled opportunity for a photo op.<BR><BR>On Kizhi are other churches and buildings which form the open-air museum dedicated to architecture and to daily life. We loved Kizhi, which seems to sit forlornly on a small peninsula. It was very cold and windy there, which added to the mystique, but I was regretting my choice to leave my scarf and heavier jacket back on the boat. When we arrived, the air was crisp, but most of us had not anticipated the brisk winds off the water which made all of us shiver. Kizhi involved a fair amount of walking on unpaved areas, so good walking shoes are a must. After the tour, we were given some time to ourselves to wander about, and when we returned to our boat, we were greeted with a warming concoction comprised of rum, vodka, and wine which had been heated. It was delicious and very welcome. We were all freezing!<BR><BR>After departing Kizhi, we headed south to the Volga-Baltic Canal, on our way to the next port of call, Goritzy. The canal has eight locks and several hydroelectric power stations. It was fascinating to pass through the locks, and to travel this stretch which was very narrow. We joked that if there were a problem with the boat, we could easily wade ashore. We saw many people fishing on the banks, and waved to them. They seemed near enough to almost touch. Many didn't return our waves, but merely stared, which we came to expect rather than to be surprised by.

rudy

My Russian river cruise continued...<BR><BR>We were learning from experience that the Russian people often outwardly appeared to be very formal, restrained, and unsmiling, even dour looking, but that underneath that exterior could be found warmth, humor, and affection. Staring at tourists is common, and we were getting used to it. In all the museums, there are people sitting guard in rooms and hallways. Usually they are women who take their jobs very seriously. They watched us carefully, and refused to smile. A few times, they even physically moved people away from a wall or piece of furniture with a quick shove and a few choice words which we couldn't understand. When greeted warmly, however, using the Russian words for "Good morning" or "Good day", we were rewarded with an enthusiastic response. They seem surprised and pleased to hear foreigners using their language. We found that it was well worth the time spent preparing before the trip trying to learn the Cyrillic alphabet and learning key Russian phrases. <BR><BR>During the cruise, we had three Russian language lessons, which were fun and informative. To help us, we learned a few songs in Russian, and had many laughs singing them with the guides. I particularly remember a song called "Kalinka", supposedly about a man who has an unrequited crush on a beautiful young woman. One of the guides took us into her confidence and explained that there are several versions of the song, some of which are "naughty". For example, in some versions the young woman's lips are described as luscious as a berry. In other versions, the part of her anatomy is changed. I can't verify this, though. Another song which we heard many times is the haunting melody of "Moscow Nights", a song recorded in the fifties, and instantly recognizable to us.<BR><BR>Though we loved touring the cities and towns, the actual time spent cruising with the guides was fun and convivial, and we thoroughly enjoyed this "down" time as well. One day we had a Russian tea party. One of the guides explained in hilarious detail how one "properly" takes tea in Russia. He also explained about the types of tea. We were then served tea and pastries, spending a relaxing hour or so with our guides and fellow travelers as we sailed through the canal on our way to Goritzy.<BR><BR>Gortizy is south of the White Lake on the Volga-Baltic canal. The purpose of visiting this town is to tour a 15th century monastery founded by St. Cyril, a monk who claimed that he had a vision from the Blessed Virgin. In that vision, she told him to found a monastery north of Moscow. The Kirillo-Belosersk Monastery which he founded is one of the most famous monasteries in Russia. It was once also used as a northern fortress that protected Moscow's interests. Today it is a museum which houses a very interesting collection of icons.<BR><BR>The day we docked in Goritzy was the coldest day of the trip. It was sleeting and the wind was howling. The town itself looks forlorn and uninviting, and we speculated on why anyone would want to live there. Standing on the frigid shore, it was easy for us to see why a hermit such as St. Cyril chose this place. Though we had to be bussed several miles to tour the monastery, there were several venders stationed just off the ramp to our boat, who made a killing that day selling woolen sweaters, scarves, and fur hats with earflaps to passengers who were more than willing to buy them in an attempt at more warmth. Our guide assured us that this would be the coldest day of our trip, and he wasn't wrong. continued...<BR><BR>

rudy

My Russian river cruise continued...<BR><BR>Our day in the cold at Goritzy was one of only two discomfitting things that I remember. The first I've already mentioned. The second is the restrooms. They are generally in much better condition than I had been led to expect. Guidebooks had mentioned that restrooms are usually in a repellant state, and yes, we experienced a few of those. Without going into great detail, it was necessary to carefully balance oneself rather than to sit down, tissues were a necessity, and if one needed to pull one's pants down, it was better to roll the pantlegs up first. However, we were surprised at how many of the museums, particularly in St. Petersburg and Moscow, had made an attempt to "clean things up". Our speculation was that, in order to attract and keep tourists, particularly with the tricentennial approaching, they felt it was time to make restrooms more manageable and less disgusting. One major exception was in our next port, Jaroslavl, in a theatre restroom. We felt there should have been no excuse for such filth and odor in a theatre restroom. Enough said about this topic.<BR><BR>Jaroslavl is a beautiful city, with more than 650,000 inhabitants. It is both a large and bustling metropolis and a quaint harbor. The day we visited was a pleasant 15 degrees centigrade (about 75 degrees fahrenhite) with clear blue skies and a golden sun. Our guide wisely sensed that we were enjoying the warmth and beauty of this city, and, after the tours were complete, allowed us to wander on our own through a very lovely park with a riverside promenade high above the Volga. We were also given an opportunity to wander through one of the marketplaces where the locals do all their shopping, with a stern warning to not eat any fruit that we didn't personally peel. The marketplace had stalls that sold everything imaginable. We saw stalls with bras and panties hanging everywhere, and women holding them close to their bodies to see if they fit, while standing next to men who idly watched with pleasure. There were stalls with cartons stacked high filled with appliances. There were stalls with raw meats hanging on hooks next to stalls where students bought school supplies. It was a real feast for the senses. But the real reason for visiting Jaroslavl was to visit the Churches. continued...

Nancy

Rudy, I took your same tour in the 1980's and went exactly the same places you did. We had a wonderful time and still think of the lovely crew, at that time we had a body guard with us on each outing. Which uniworld rep. was with you on your trip?<BR>Great report.

rudy

Thanks, Nancy. I didn't travel with Uniworld. We booked with Viking (www.vikingrivercruises.com). I hope this isn't viewed as advertising, but we felt that they did a first class job.

Rus

Good account of your trip, Rudy! I'm going to St. Petersburg(no cruise, just visiting friends) in about a week and a half and wanted to ask you if while you were there was there alot of scaffolding on buildings and monuments? I know they're doing (or have done) alot of renovations in preperation for next years 300 yr. celebration. Did you have any problems while in the city? Thanks, and again, good recounting of your trip.