My recent Trip to France
Jan 27th, 2014, 04:49 PM
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My recent Trip to France
Recently I went on a 15 day trip to France, most of which was spent traveling from vineyard to vineyard visiting the producers we import to the US. Along the way, I saw magnificent scenery, and had some opportunities to go and take day trips to places I'd never been.
Part 1:
Some great tips from Fodorites enhanced this trip for me greatly. For instance, a thread opened up the world of the Cathar Castles for me. I'd never thought about these people or the castles they left behind when I thought about France. I saw a thread on here, that recommended day trips from Toulouse and saw quite a few people recommend Carcassonne. Carcassonne is a medieval castle town that still has an entire working and living little town inside it's walls. It's only an hour by train from Toulouse (where I had air bnb'd a great little apartment for the few nights before my company arrived in France), then a quick bus ride from nearby the train station up the road to the Castle. I spent a whole day here.
I thoroughly enjoyed ambling around the ramparts and touring the castle, with views of the nearby towns below.
Albi was the other great day trip suggestion I got, and it was absolutely worth the less than an hour train ride from Toulouse, even on rainy day, to go and see the breathtaking St Cecil Cathedral (more intricate carvings then I saw in any other cathedral in France), and the gorgeous views of the Pont Vieux from the gardens next door. It was also a quaint town full of lovely little lunch spots and tiny little winding streets that felt like going back in time. I had the best cassoulet here as well at Le Petit Voisin (a funky little place with a tiny upstairs and big bigger downstairs where a wild Frenchman and his parrot host and serve)
Montpelier: Took a day trip here but unfortunately it was a Sunday and absolutely nothing interesting was open. I knew Sundays were bad but I thought we'd at least be able to enter some of the cathedrals, but yikes the ones we found were not accessible. Despite this, we ambled around the historic little center of the town down the trafficless stone streets, took a nice walk in the park and went to the Arc de Triumph. The highlight of this trip was actually the gorgeous Plazas (I can never think anything but Piazza or Palazzo damn my Italian roots) at Sunset as the light was so pretty and so different than Toulouse and Paris, and they were all lit up with some of the pretties Winter lights I've seen in France. Then the train ride home where we drank bottles of wine and ate Chinese-Vietnamese food (only thing open other than horrible touristy Plaza places with bad food).
This was up to day 4. The next part of the trip is the wine-vineyards portion. I am still recovering 2 weeks after my return, and am unable to eat much cheese, foie gras, or prosciutto after the absolute gluttony that was Beaune, Mersault, Macon, Condrieu, Cote Rotie, Avignon, Lyon, Costieres du Nimes and Sancerre.
.....
Part 1:
Some great tips from Fodorites enhanced this trip for me greatly. For instance, a thread opened up the world of the Cathar Castles for me. I'd never thought about these people or the castles they left behind when I thought about France. I saw a thread on here, that recommended day trips from Toulouse and saw quite a few people recommend Carcassonne. Carcassonne is a medieval castle town that still has an entire working and living little town inside it's walls. It's only an hour by train from Toulouse (where I had air bnb'd a great little apartment for the few nights before my company arrived in France), then a quick bus ride from nearby the train station up the road to the Castle. I spent a whole day here.
I thoroughly enjoyed ambling around the ramparts and touring the castle, with views of the nearby towns below.
Albi was the other great day trip suggestion I got, and it was absolutely worth the less than an hour train ride from Toulouse, even on rainy day, to go and see the breathtaking St Cecil Cathedral (more intricate carvings then I saw in any other cathedral in France), and the gorgeous views of the Pont Vieux from the gardens next door. It was also a quaint town full of lovely little lunch spots and tiny little winding streets that felt like going back in time. I had the best cassoulet here as well at Le Petit Voisin (a funky little place with a tiny upstairs and big bigger downstairs where a wild Frenchman and his parrot host and serve)
Montpelier: Took a day trip here but unfortunately it was a Sunday and absolutely nothing interesting was open. I knew Sundays were bad but I thought we'd at least be able to enter some of the cathedrals, but yikes the ones we found were not accessible. Despite this, we ambled around the historic little center of the town down the trafficless stone streets, took a nice walk in the park and went to the Arc de Triumph. The highlight of this trip was actually the gorgeous Plazas (I can never think anything but Piazza or Palazzo damn my Italian roots) at Sunset as the light was so pretty and so different than Toulouse and Paris, and they were all lit up with some of the pretties Winter lights I've seen in France. Then the train ride home where we drank bottles of wine and ate Chinese-Vietnamese food (only thing open other than horrible touristy Plaza places with bad food).
This was up to day 4. The next part of the trip is the wine-vineyards portion. I am still recovering 2 weeks after my return, and am unable to eat much cheese, foie gras, or prosciutto after the absolute gluttony that was Beaune, Mersault, Macon, Condrieu, Cote Rotie, Avignon, Lyon, Costieres du Nimes and Sancerre.
.....
Jan 28th, 2014, 07:16 AM
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thank you. more!! I will be in Toulouse for two days on my own and was thinking of doing a tour to Carcassonne. although I will now look up Albi.. If you could only do one what would be your choice for traveling alone ?
Jan 28th, 2014, 10:39 AM
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Part 2: Gascony, Costieres du Nimes, and Avignon:
As we import about 25 different French producers' wines, our company trips are laden with fatty foods, excessive tasting (never swallowing, always swishing, swirling, spitting, and taking copious notes) from morning until night. One might say this sounds like a vacation. I assure you it's not.
However, the perks of doing our jobs, and getting to these places, is getting to see so many vineyards areas in one trip, and having access to winemakers, estates, and cellars in every case.
our first vineyard stop was a the Grassa Family Estate in Gascony or more specifically Southwest-Armagnac. Home of Domaine du Tariquet white wines and spectacular small production aged Armagnacs. The weather gods smiled on us this year giving us temps in the high 40's and low 50's Fahrenheit and not much rain. Absolutely epic weather compared to last year at the same time.
Highlights of this visit: Seeing the vast rolling white grape vineyards and getting a sense of place of where these Ugni Blanc and Colombard grapes that go into some of the best armagnacs in France, catching the bunch of black pigs rooting around looking for chestnuts (their favorite food that grows plentifully in the area), and then going to lunch and having charcuterie so fresh, you knew you were munching on one of those black pigs (not vegetarian sensitive estate yikes.. sorry!). We feasted on Foie Gras, which was served in such large portions a few of us got sick, unused as we are, to such decadence. Then on fresh poultry ( in fact rooster but a special kind of rooster that had been castrated and therefore was very tender) that is typical fare in this area, alongside roasted and pureed chestnuts. The producers really love to feed us specialties of the area. And as they always remind us, there are thousands of ducks to every person, in Gascony, which is why there is so much foie gras.
as an aside, I don't really eat foie gras, but I always nibble at a bite or 2 to be polite. Their ducks are very happy in this country and are not force fed anything, they just naturally make themselves fat.
We went back to stay in Toulouse for the night, too tired to go anywhere, but I recommend a great steak frites place I had gone a couple days earlier called L'entrecote on Rue Strasbourg. Always packed with a line out the door.
Next day we pick up and head to Corbieres (which is in the Languedoc-Rousillon wine region but also within the district of Limoux), to stop at our producer there, before heading to Nimes. We drove along, with views of along the way: Montagne d'Aric, the chapel of St Michelle de Naruze and picturesque little towns. Corbieres has one of the lowest populations per square mile in France, and we all noticed the open space, and tranquility in comparison, with the large city we'd just been in.
We Barrel tasted, and tank sampled the characteristic light bodied Corbieres reds and Roses that will be bottled soon, and head to lunch for plenty of seafood and a beef stew, followed by the obligatory cheese course, and then dessert (this is how every meal of our entire trip goes).
Costieres du Nimes: We arrived in time to check into our Hotel (Hotel Imperatore), it was my second time at this hotel and I have really liked it both times. Great breakfast every morning with any type of coffee you would like to order, very nice rooms, and a pretty old historic building, as well as helpful an English speaking (at least the front desk) staff. HOWEVER, I wouldn't count on these guys for a wake up call. The only places I successfully got my requested wake up calls were Paris and Beaune.
We stay there in January, so they are very happy to have us, as we book up half their rooms, and eat, drink, etc every evening. Our rate per room including breakfast, etc etc was around $150/night. Of course I think we get a group rate, but if you are traveling off season, a lot of these places will offer much better rates than are advertised.
I absolutely love the town of Nimes. It's a friendly city, with so many pretty walks or runs, and little treasures to be discovered each time I visit. This year, I took a morning run through the big Jardins de la Fontaine (large park and gardens) with it's winding paths, gardens, and stairs leading up to views of the city, then past the Arena (apparently the best preserved coloseum or ampitheatre in the world) and back to the hotel. A nice 2.5 mile run.
For food and drinks, the dining is more Spanish influenced down here, and I always really appreciate this before heading to places like Burgundy where i know I'll be stuffed like a goose for slaughter with stews, red meat, cheese, and pates.
As we import about 25 different French producers' wines, our company trips are laden with fatty foods, excessive tasting (never swallowing, always swishing, swirling, spitting, and taking copious notes) from morning until night. One might say this sounds like a vacation. I assure you it's not.
However, the perks of doing our jobs, and getting to these places, is getting to see so many vineyards areas in one trip, and having access to winemakers, estates, and cellars in every case.
our first vineyard stop was a the Grassa Family Estate in Gascony or more specifically Southwest-Armagnac. Home of Domaine du Tariquet white wines and spectacular small production aged Armagnacs. The weather gods smiled on us this year giving us temps in the high 40's and low 50's Fahrenheit and not much rain. Absolutely epic weather compared to last year at the same time.
Highlights of this visit: Seeing the vast rolling white grape vineyards and getting a sense of place of where these Ugni Blanc and Colombard grapes that go into some of the best armagnacs in France, catching the bunch of black pigs rooting around looking for chestnuts (their favorite food that grows plentifully in the area), and then going to lunch and having charcuterie so fresh, you knew you were munching on one of those black pigs (not vegetarian sensitive estate yikes.. sorry!). We feasted on Foie Gras, which was served in such large portions a few of us got sick, unused as we are, to such decadence. Then on fresh poultry ( in fact rooster but a special kind of rooster that had been castrated and therefore was very tender) that is typical fare in this area, alongside roasted and pureed chestnuts. The producers really love to feed us specialties of the area. And as they always remind us, there are thousands of ducks to every person, in Gascony, which is why there is so much foie gras.
as an aside, I don't really eat foie gras, but I always nibble at a bite or 2 to be polite. Their ducks are very happy in this country and are not force fed anything, they just naturally make themselves fat.
We went back to stay in Toulouse for the night, too tired to go anywhere, but I recommend a great steak frites place I had gone a couple days earlier called L'entrecote on Rue Strasbourg. Always packed with a line out the door.
Next day we pick up and head to Corbieres (which is in the Languedoc-Rousillon wine region but also within the district of Limoux), to stop at our producer there, before heading to Nimes. We drove along, with views of along the way: Montagne d'Aric, the chapel of St Michelle de Naruze and picturesque little towns. Corbieres has one of the lowest populations per square mile in France, and we all noticed the open space, and tranquility in comparison, with the large city we'd just been in.
We Barrel tasted, and tank sampled the characteristic light bodied Corbieres reds and Roses that will be bottled soon, and head to lunch for plenty of seafood and a beef stew, followed by the obligatory cheese course, and then dessert (this is how every meal of our entire trip goes).
Costieres du Nimes: We arrived in time to check into our Hotel (Hotel Imperatore), it was my second time at this hotel and I have really liked it both times. Great breakfast every morning with any type of coffee you would like to order, very nice rooms, and a pretty old historic building, as well as helpful an English speaking (at least the front desk) staff. HOWEVER, I wouldn't count on these guys for a wake up call. The only places I successfully got my requested wake up calls were Paris and Beaune.
We stay there in January, so they are very happy to have us, as we book up half their rooms, and eat, drink, etc every evening. Our rate per room including breakfast, etc etc was around $150/night. Of course I think we get a group rate, but if you are traveling off season, a lot of these places will offer much better rates than are advertised.
I absolutely love the town of Nimes. It's a friendly city, with so many pretty walks or runs, and little treasures to be discovered each time I visit. This year, I took a morning run through the big Jardins de la Fontaine (large park and gardens) with it's winding paths, gardens, and stairs leading up to views of the city, then past the Arena (apparently the best preserved coloseum or ampitheatre in the world) and back to the hotel. A nice 2.5 mile run.
For food and drinks, the dining is more Spanish influenced down here, and I always really appreciate this before heading to places like Burgundy where i know I'll be stuffed like a goose for slaughter with stews, red meat, cheese, and pates.
Jan 28th, 2014, 11:40 AM
#9
( in fact rooster but a special kind of rooster that had been castrated and therefore was very tender)>>
called a capon in these here parts.
I love armagnac - did you get to taste any?
a most interesting viewpoint for a trip report, BTW - thanks for posting.
called a capon in these here parts.
I love armagnac - did you get to taste any?
a most interesting viewpoint for a trip report, BTW - thanks for posting.
Jan 28th, 2014, 12:13 PM
#10
It's nice to see this sort of take on a trip report. I drink plenty of wine but I confess that I am not extremely strict in my criteria for the quality, so I like to see what an expert has to say about all of this.
Jan 28th, 2014, 12:22 PM
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<i> in fact rooster but a special kind of rooster that had been castrated and therefore was very tender</i>
Known as capons and were commonly sold in NYC when I was a child.
<i>and are not force fed anything, they just naturally make themselves fat.Z</i>
Not from what I've seen.
Glad to hear about Nîmes, as we will be near-by in June.
Known as capons and were commonly sold in NYC when I was a child.
<i>and are not force fed anything, they just naturally make themselves fat.Z</i>
Not from what I've seen.
Glad to hear about Nîmes, as we will be near-by in June.
Jan 28th, 2014, 12:34 PM
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Nice report (about an area I love). Thanks.
<<Their ducks are very happy in this country and are not force fed anything, they just naturally make themselves fat.>>
UM, whoever told you that was pulling your leg.
<<Their ducks are very happy in this country and are not force fed anything, they just naturally make themselves fat.>>
UM, whoever told you that was pulling your leg.
Jan 28th, 2014, 07:15 PM
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Loaded with great stuff. Thanks for the report.
As far as I am concerned, no need to justify having some foie gras. I know it's a touchy subject for many...
I recently saw a Rick Steves episode on the Dordogne region of France (I think) where they showed the bird being force fed (I had no idea how this is accomplished before I saw this-it's amazingly quick). The birds shown are given freedom to move around the farm freely. I have no idea if they are happy and they didn't take off when the farmers rounded them up for the feeding. Maybe the roosters mind their procedure more?
As far as I am concerned, no need to justify having some foie gras. I know it's a touchy subject for many...
I recently saw a Rick Steves episode on the Dordogne region of France (I think) where they showed the bird being force fed (I had no idea how this is accomplished before I saw this-it's amazingly quick). The birds shown are given freedom to move around the farm freely. I have no idea if they are happy and they didn't take off when the farmers rounded them up for the feeding. Maybe the roosters mind their procedure more?
Jan 29th, 2014, 05:16 AM
#16
Taking notes with interest. We enjoyed our time in the area but there is so much we missed. We must return to Albi, Corbieres, Nimes, etc. Your report makes it seem inviting.
I think we've been to the same Relais Entrecote in Toulouse and in Paris. Do you mean the place that only serves one dish for the last 150 years?
I think we've been to the same Relais Entrecote in Toulouse and in Paris. Do you mean the place that only serves one dish for the last 150 years?
Jan 29th, 2014, 06:05 AM
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LOL, denisea! Expect the rooster <i>does</i> mind it more.
Hi, Brooke_Herron, and thanks for this look at travel. We also loved Nimes and were "wow'ed" by the large inclosed market. A nice walk from the coliseum to the park I believe you described. Did you have time to get to the centre? Amazingly old building and great TI for those visiting.
Hi, Brooke_Herron, and thanks for this look at travel. We also loved Nimes and were "wow'ed" by the large inclosed market. A nice walk from the coliseum to the park I believe you described. Did you have time to get to the centre? Amazingly old building and great TI for those visiting.
Jan 29th, 2014, 06:57 AM
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annhig-ah yes! thanks for that. A capon.
and yes, we absolutely tasted some aged armagnacs. I tasted the 93, 94, 98, and 99 as well as their special Centinaire blend which was 70+ year old aged armagnac bottled in 2012 for their 100th anniversary. The 93 was my favorite. However, their regular VS, VSOP, and XO are all excellent, and are what get brought into US for regular use. The XO is the spirit that changed my mind about being a 'spirits' person. I really am a wine person and had never been one to sit and sip a straight spirit, but armagnacs made this way (preservation of the fruit, no additions of caramel and color, no high toast level oak, and sig extra age above what is required) are a pleasure and the alcohol just doesn't hit you the same way some of the more main stream armagnacs and cognacs do
and yes, we absolutely tasted some aged armagnacs. I tasted the 93, 94, 98, and 99 as well as their special Centinaire blend which was 70+ year old aged armagnac bottled in 2012 for their 100th anniversary. The 93 was my favorite. However, their regular VS, VSOP, and XO are all excellent, and are what get brought into US for regular use. The XO is the spirit that changed my mind about being a 'spirits' person. I really am a wine person and had never been one to sit and sip a straight spirit, but armagnacs made this way (preservation of the fruit, no additions of caramel and color, no high toast level oak, and sig extra age above what is required) are a pleasure and the alcohol just doesn't hit you the same way some of the more main stream armagnacs and cognacs do
Jan 29th, 2014, 07:00 AM
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Michael- yes the Toulouse-Lautrec museum was lovely as well.
YankeeGal- I definitely appreciate all the places I get to see, at the end of it. It's just sometimes, when on the 25th wine of the day and it's only 11am and knowing if you swallow anything you'll fall asleep, and your boss will have your head, you definitely just want to go grab a beer
YankeeGal- I definitely appreciate all the places I get to see, at the end of it. It's just sometimes, when on the 25th wine of the day and it's only 11am and knowing if you swallow anything you'll fall asleep, and your boss will have your head, you definitely just want to go grab a beer
