My Low Budget Trip to Portugal
Oct 22nd, 2009, 04:38 AM
#21
Adrienne, your report is really interesting. Looking forward to the rest.
Steve, I had my best meal in Portugal at the Taberna Tipica Quarta-Feira in Evora. Reservations are essential. Very small restaurant. One set price meal each night, no choices. For more details you can check out my trip report at http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm.
Steve, I had my best meal in Portugal at the Taberna Tipica Quarta-Feira in Evora. Reservations are essential. Very small restaurant. One set price meal each night, no choices. For more details you can check out my trip report at http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm.
Oct 22nd, 2009, 05:56 AM
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Thanks all! It will get more amusing as I describe some of my driving adventures and panic attacks and my meltdown/crying jag day in Lisbon which I can now laugh at all of it.
Nikki - I remember your fabulous photos - they helped inspire me to go to Portugal. I can't believe you were there in July - you're a brave sou!. I had trouble with the heat in October and can't imagine living through summer heat. I absolutely refused to go inside buildings in the afternoons because they were so hot; I tried to stay outside as much as possible.
Nikki - I remember your fabulous photos - they helped inspire me to go to Portugal. I can't believe you were there in July - you're a brave sou!. I had trouble with the heat in October and can't imagine living through summer heat. I absolutely refused to go inside buildings in the afternoons because they were so hot; I tried to stay outside as much as possible.
Oct 22nd, 2009, 07:01 AM
#25
Yes, it is hot in the summer. My first trip report that included Portugal was entitled "Is it hot or is it me?".
Perhaps there was more air conditioning in the summer, but I don't remember being so hot inside the buildings.
Perhaps there was more air conditioning in the summer, but I don't remember being so hot inside the buildings.
Oct 22nd, 2009, 12:15 PM
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jamikins - you arrived the day after I left. I booked at this time since it was not supposed to be hot. I really hate hot weather but at least it cooled off in the evening and night for sleeping. I shall be whining further about the heat in Portugal - be prepared!! 
Oct 22nd, 2009, 12:36 PM
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Hi, Adrienne,
You've got a knack for telling your travel story, I'm enjoying it a lot. I, too, have noticed that there is a whole lot less night activity in public squares, etc, in Portugal than, say, in Spain. Dinner is much earlier, for one thing, and I guess there's just not that social imperative about getting seen and being out and about. But it seems strange that Spain and Portugal would be so different in that regard. I didn't think Portugal was very different from most of western Europe in that regard, and certainly not from the typical US town -- did you?
And the heat is so erratic -- I was in Lisbon this year till July 20. We had one unbearable bout with the heat in early June, then just beautiful weather more or less non-stop till we left in July. Looks like it came back with a vengeance, that's too bad -- especially since there are so many un-air conditioned places in Lisbon and elsewhere.
Looking forward to later installments! Laurie
You've got a knack for telling your travel story, I'm enjoying it a lot. I, too, have noticed that there is a whole lot less night activity in public squares, etc, in Portugal than, say, in Spain. Dinner is much earlier, for one thing, and I guess there's just not that social imperative about getting seen and being out and about. But it seems strange that Spain and Portugal would be so different in that regard. I didn't think Portugal was very different from most of western Europe in that regard, and certainly not from the typical US town -- did you?
And the heat is so erratic -- I was in Lisbon this year till July 20. We had one unbearable bout with the heat in early June, then just beautiful weather more or less non-stop till we left in July. Looks like it came back with a vengeance, that's too bad -- especially since there are so many un-air conditioned places in Lisbon and elsewhere.
Looking forward to later installments! Laurie
Oct 22nd, 2009, 12:45 PM
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I loved your report! I wish I was going to Portugal instead of Spain as it is much more expensive that Portugal. I actually like Portuguese food even more than Spanish cuisine. Did you have any pasteis de nata? They are to die for!
Oct 22nd, 2009, 01:20 PM
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Thanks Laurie - glad you're enjoying the report. There are a few dull days coming but but then it gets more interesting.
travelme - are those the custard tarts? If so, they are delicious. I actually wasn't eating much as it was so hot in the day and I seldom finished my dinner since the portions are so large. I lost 5 lbs in two weeks so that was good news. The food in Portugal was very very good. I didn't have any disappointing meals.
travelme - are those the custard tarts? If so, they are delicious. I actually wasn't eating much as it was so hot in the day and I seldom finished my dinner since the portions are so large. I lost 5 lbs in two weeks so that was good news. The food in Portugal was very very good. I didn't have any disappointing meals.
Oct 22nd, 2009, 02:12 PM
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Laurie - I've been giving some consideration to your comment about cafe life in Portugal. Certainly in the US there is little or no activity in the evenings in small towns but the US does not have a cafe society as you find in Europe. I remember much more of a cafe society in towns in Italy and France and I expected Portugal to be the same, especially as it was so warm in the evenings and the wine and coffee are so cheap. But perhaps wine and coffee are not inexpensive for the Portuguese people.
Oct 22nd, 2009, 02:42 PM
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I really enjoyed your photos adrienne.
There's a bakery in my neighbourhood with a crazy Portuguese pastry chef who makes those custard tarts- they are dangerously good. Hmmm, I might have to get some this weekend...
There's a bakery in my neighbourhood with a crazy Portuguese pastry chef who makes those custard tarts- they are dangerously good. Hmmm, I might have to get some this weekend...
Oct 22nd, 2009, 03:32 PM
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adrienne - my husband and I will be in Portugal for about 3 days in January (taking train to/from Madrid/Lisbon, most likely)... we were thinking of seeing Lisbon and Sintra, but your trip report is making me more curious about towns around Lisbon (e.g. Evora).
Would you recommend our original plan, or are there little towns around Lisbon that we shouldn't miss?
Would you recommend our original plan, or are there little towns around Lisbon that we shouldn't miss?
Oct 22nd, 2009, 04:21 PM
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slangevar - Sintra is only 30 minutes from Lisbon and was my very favorite town and I'm so happy I spent 2 days there. Do not miss Sintra! It has much more to see than Evora and is more charming.
Oct 22nd, 2009, 04:35 PM
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Day 3 – Friday - Monsaraz
Monsaraz is a pretty, pristinely white-washed hill town and has enough sightseeing for about one hour.
Today I picked up my rental car in Evora from Guerin Car Rental. I booked a pickup time of 10:00 (to ensure I could return the car on time and not be charged for an extra day if I were late). I set off at 9:15 to find the car rental location. It was about a 10 minute walk from my hotel but I was unsure of the exact location so I walked in the general direction and began asking people. I finally stopped in a hotel and asked the desk clerk about Guerin and he said “come with me, madam” and pointed to it out the back entrance to the hotel – very kind.
The paperwork took much longer than I had thought it would take and the young gentleman who spoke English wanted to talk a lot about Evora and the student hazing and his hazing experiences which was all very interesting. We thoroughly examined all the scrapes on the car and I took photos of the car and of him next to the car. I made sure I knew how to find reverse and practiced it a few times before I set off. I finally left the rental agency at 11:15, much later than I had expected.
The rental fellow had given me directions to Monsaraz but I missed a turn somewhere and was headed to Redondo but just before Redondo there was a sign for Monsaraz so I followed the road and arrive there at 1:00. Half the day was gone and I was facing the afternoon heat and what turned out to be the hottest day of the trip – 90 degrees F.
From driving experiences in Italy I knew not to park in the first parking lot I saw as there was probably a parking lot closer to the top and you could sometimes drive right to the top of the town. I parked very close to the top of Monsaraz and could have parked a bit closer. Just keep going up until you see the walled gate to the old town and park just outside the gate.
Monsaraz is very small and there were few tourists. Most of the town was shut. As I entered the town I saw a restaurant with a terrace but walked around the streets a bit and the returned to the terrace restaurant with a view over the plains. It was shady and breezy so somewhat comfortable and I had a lettuce and tomato salad and 2 bottles of water (5.00). I was totally parched by now.
After lunch I went into the church and then into another building that looked like a church but now was a exhibition hall with some modern paintings – not very interesting. I wandered a bit more and then headed out.
Back in the car park I decided to try to open the trunk and I’m glad I thought about it then. I used the clicker to open the car doors to cool it off (I had parked under a tree) and I thought this would open the trunk. It was supposed to unlock the trunk at the same time but didn’t. I then tried the key which didn’t work either. Oh no…does this mean trying to find the rental agency again???
There was one other car in the lot with a couple sitting inside consulting a map. I walked over and tapped gently on the window and asked if they spoke English (they did) and then asked if they were familiar with my car and if they knew how the trunk lock worked. The woman got out and she opened it with the clicker. I thanked her, she went back to her car, and I practiced myself. The clicker didn’t work for me. The key didn’t work for me. They noticed that I was still struggling with the trunk so they both came over and the clicker didn’t work for her this time. We both fiddled with the key but couldn’t open the trunk. The gentleman then finally figured out how the key worked in the trunk, showed me, and I practiced until I could open the trunk effortlessly. What a day. Not much sightseeing, lots of heat with the car air conditioner blowing out tepid air, and can’t open a car trunk. Note to self: make sure you can open the rental car trunk before leaving the agency!
Enroute to Monsaraz I had turned on the air conditioning. Just luke-warm air. Before leaving Monsaraz I took another look at all the buttons on the dash board and realized that there was a button I needed to push to make the AC compressor work. Ahhh…cold air. I blasted the AC and my front froze while my back was totally sweating. What a sensation! Frost bite on my front and bathing in sweat on my back. The car thermostat showed 33 degrees C. I had no idea what temp that was in F. and furthermore didn’t want to know how hot it was. I just kept telling myself it’s only 33 degrees!
Onward to Sao Pedro do Corval, a town with pottery shops I had passed through between Redondo and Monsaraz. I followed the signs out of Monsaraz but somehow took a different route out than I had driven on the way to Monsaraz. I didn’t think that was possible as the map only showed one road into and out of Monsaraz but all of a sudden I was well on my way to Redondo. I thought of going back but I was still so very hot and decided not to go to Sao Pedro do Corval as I would use the time in the car to cool off and look for pottery in Redondo on the way back to Evora.
I arrived in Redondo and looked for evidence of pottery shops but saw none. I looped through the town several times but never saw any shops of interest, pottery or otherwise. I was still too hot to get out and walk around and I was very thirsty. I never shop when I’m hot as I can’t make decisions so I headed back to Evora knowing I had that hot, uphill walk from the car park. And I still had to find the car park!
I entered Evora beneath the 16th century aqueduct and followed the signs to Rossio and Giraldo as that was the closest car park to my hotel. It’s at the bottom of Rua de Repubblica and near St. Bras chapel. I’m not sure how I got there since the road I took was over body shaking cobbles and I never went over that road again but I spotted St. Bras chapel (which stands out above everything else surrounding it) and found the car park. Hooray! It’s a huge, free parking lot so there are always empty spaces. If you’re in Evora for the day either go for this lot or, if you arrive early, you can park near the Pousada next to the cathedral – a better location if you can get it. I walked through the public garden as it is shady and saw a mini market where I bought a large water, yogurt, and grapes. The grapes were delicious and I quickly ate them. Anything to re-hydrate.
Back at the hotel I peeled off my clothes, cooled off (there was a breeze through the window), showered, and went to the square to sit in the cool breeze and drink wine and have dinner again at Café Giraldo. The spices on the pork I had the first two nights was upsetting my stomach a bit so I had a cheese omelet with fries and my usual 1/2 carafe of wine. Surprisingly the omelet was more expensive than meat but it was large. Dinner was 13.30. I lingered in the square for quite a while enjoying the cooling breezes and then wandered around some of the adjacent streets, looking in shop windows, before returning to the hotel. Since it was Friday I expected more activity in the square but there was less tonight than on Wednesday or Thursday.
Monsaraz is a pretty, pristinely white-washed hill town and has enough sightseeing for about one hour.
Today I picked up my rental car in Evora from Guerin Car Rental. I booked a pickup time of 10:00 (to ensure I could return the car on time and not be charged for an extra day if I were late). I set off at 9:15 to find the car rental location. It was about a 10 minute walk from my hotel but I was unsure of the exact location so I walked in the general direction and began asking people. I finally stopped in a hotel and asked the desk clerk about Guerin and he said “come with me, madam” and pointed to it out the back entrance to the hotel – very kind.
The paperwork took much longer than I had thought it would take and the young gentleman who spoke English wanted to talk a lot about Evora and the student hazing and his hazing experiences which was all very interesting. We thoroughly examined all the scrapes on the car and I took photos of the car and of him next to the car. I made sure I knew how to find reverse and practiced it a few times before I set off. I finally left the rental agency at 11:15, much later than I had expected.
The rental fellow had given me directions to Monsaraz but I missed a turn somewhere and was headed to Redondo but just before Redondo there was a sign for Monsaraz so I followed the road and arrive there at 1:00. Half the day was gone and I was facing the afternoon heat and what turned out to be the hottest day of the trip – 90 degrees F.
From driving experiences in Italy I knew not to park in the first parking lot I saw as there was probably a parking lot closer to the top and you could sometimes drive right to the top of the town. I parked very close to the top of Monsaraz and could have parked a bit closer. Just keep going up until you see the walled gate to the old town and park just outside the gate.
Monsaraz is very small and there were few tourists. Most of the town was shut. As I entered the town I saw a restaurant with a terrace but walked around the streets a bit and the returned to the terrace restaurant with a view over the plains. It was shady and breezy so somewhat comfortable and I had a lettuce and tomato salad and 2 bottles of water (5.00). I was totally parched by now.
After lunch I went into the church and then into another building that looked like a church but now was a exhibition hall with some modern paintings – not very interesting. I wandered a bit more and then headed out.
Back in the car park I decided to try to open the trunk and I’m glad I thought about it then. I used the clicker to open the car doors to cool it off (I had parked under a tree) and I thought this would open the trunk. It was supposed to unlock the trunk at the same time but didn’t. I then tried the key which didn’t work either. Oh no…does this mean trying to find the rental agency again???
There was one other car in the lot with a couple sitting inside consulting a map. I walked over and tapped gently on the window and asked if they spoke English (they did) and then asked if they were familiar with my car and if they knew how the trunk lock worked. The woman got out and she opened it with the clicker. I thanked her, she went back to her car, and I practiced myself. The clicker didn’t work for me. The key didn’t work for me. They noticed that I was still struggling with the trunk so they both came over and the clicker didn’t work for her this time. We both fiddled with the key but couldn’t open the trunk. The gentleman then finally figured out how the key worked in the trunk, showed me, and I practiced until I could open the trunk effortlessly. What a day. Not much sightseeing, lots of heat with the car air conditioner blowing out tepid air, and can’t open a car trunk. Note to self: make sure you can open the rental car trunk before leaving the agency!
Enroute to Monsaraz I had turned on the air conditioning. Just luke-warm air. Before leaving Monsaraz I took another look at all the buttons on the dash board and realized that there was a button I needed to push to make the AC compressor work. Ahhh…cold air. I blasted the AC and my front froze while my back was totally sweating. What a sensation! Frost bite on my front and bathing in sweat on my back. The car thermostat showed 33 degrees C. I had no idea what temp that was in F. and furthermore didn’t want to know how hot it was. I just kept telling myself it’s only 33 degrees!
Onward to Sao Pedro do Corval, a town with pottery shops I had passed through between Redondo and Monsaraz. I followed the signs out of Monsaraz but somehow took a different route out than I had driven on the way to Monsaraz. I didn’t think that was possible as the map only showed one road into and out of Monsaraz but all of a sudden I was well on my way to Redondo. I thought of going back but I was still so very hot and decided not to go to Sao Pedro do Corval as I would use the time in the car to cool off and look for pottery in Redondo on the way back to Evora.
I arrived in Redondo and looked for evidence of pottery shops but saw none. I looped through the town several times but never saw any shops of interest, pottery or otherwise. I was still too hot to get out and walk around and I was very thirsty. I never shop when I’m hot as I can’t make decisions so I headed back to Evora knowing I had that hot, uphill walk from the car park. And I still had to find the car park!
I entered Evora beneath the 16th century aqueduct and followed the signs to Rossio and Giraldo as that was the closest car park to my hotel. It’s at the bottom of Rua de Repubblica and near St. Bras chapel. I’m not sure how I got there since the road I took was over body shaking cobbles and I never went over that road again but I spotted St. Bras chapel (which stands out above everything else surrounding it) and found the car park. Hooray! It’s a huge, free parking lot so there are always empty spaces. If you’re in Evora for the day either go for this lot or, if you arrive early, you can park near the Pousada next to the cathedral – a better location if you can get it. I walked through the public garden as it is shady and saw a mini market where I bought a large water, yogurt, and grapes. The grapes were delicious and I quickly ate them. Anything to re-hydrate.
Back at the hotel I peeled off my clothes, cooled off (there was a breeze through the window), showered, and went to the square to sit in the cool breeze and drink wine and have dinner again at Café Giraldo. The spices on the pork I had the first two nights was upsetting my stomach a bit so I had a cheese omelet with fries and my usual 1/2 carafe of wine. Surprisingly the omelet was more expensive than meat but it was large. Dinner was 13.30. I lingered in the square for quite a while enjoying the cooling breezes and then wandered around some of the adjacent streets, looking in shop windows, before returning to the hotel. Since it was Friday I expected more activity in the square but there was less tonight than on Wednesday or Thursday.
Oct 23rd, 2009, 06:17 AM
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Day 4 – Saturday – Estremoz & Vila Vicosa
Each town can be seen in half a day although there is much more sightseeing in Vila Vicosa than in Estremoz.
It’s an easy drive to Estremoz from Evora and I had no problem following the signs out of Evora and finding Estremoz. I did get a late start as I couldn’t get myself out of bed. Hereafter I set my alarm and started the day earlier so I was driving in the cool mornings could get some sightseeing done before the afternoon heat.
Just before arriving in Estremoz I was pulled over by the police who were standing under an overpass with three parked police cars. Yikes! I was going too fast to pull behind the three police cars and I’ve been taught that you should never be behind the police. Always stay in front and they should approach you from behind. I guess Portuguese police ethics are different because he was annoyed that I pulled in front of the cars and he had to walk to my car and started yelling and signaling that I should have pulled in behind the police cars. He approached as I opened my window and I said Bom Dia, in a very friendly way. He spouted some Portuguese at me and I gave him my fully mastered helpless, hopeless look and apologized for not speaking Portuguese. He said “your documents” very sternly. I handed over my license, explained that it’s a license to drive and silently reprimanded myself for not having my passport copy with me. The officer took my license back to his confreres, they spoke for a few minutes, he returned, handed my license back, and waved me away. That was it. Good – only a random check. Note to self: Don’t forget to put your passport copy in your purse!
Estremoz has a very large car park near the TI but it was very full and there was some creative parking going on. I didn’t realize that Saturday is the day for a big flea and farmer’s market which shouldn’t be missed. I couldn’t find a spot in the large car park so I drove around for a bit and saw some street parking in the shade – what luck. I walked to the market and looked around a bit. I should have given this market more time than the few minutes I spent there. I never did see the live chickens and ducks I heard about later. If you’re in the area on Saturday, don’t miss this market. Get there early.
I found the TI and got a map and then headed up toward the ruined castle. I met some Americans on the way down and asked if I was going in the right direction. They were on their way back to their car as the walk up was too steep for them and they learned that you can drive right up to the pousada and castle area. I decided to do the same as it was getting hot! When you drive up as far as you think you can and see a stone archway with dirt parking lots on either side, continue on through the arch and park by the pousada – there’s lots of spaces.
I didn’t spend much time at the market as I wanted to see the Capela de Santa Isabel, to the left of the pousada. It’s kept locked and you get the key from someone at St. Marie church, down the hill from the castle. The church was closed, the museum near the main square was closed, and by the time I drove back to the square the market had packed up. I’m doing really badly with sightseeing. The day before I saw one church and today, so far, I saw the Estremoz pousada. This is pitiful. But I did get to meet the police – LOL.
Onward to Vila Vicosa, pronounced vi-SO-sa. The “c” has a cedilla under it, making the “c” sound like an “s.”
I arrive here sometime before 2:00. Vila Vicosa is one of the marble towns and according to Lonely Planet this is the one to see. It is indeed lovely. The TI (open all day) is on the large main square lined with benches and orange trees. I didn’t see a parking place around the square so I followed signs to the castle for the church I wanted to see – Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceicao – at the top of the hill.
The church was to re-open at 2:00 so I wandered through the adjacent cemetery with its lovely tombs, angels, cherubs. I still had time until I could see the church so I tried to find my way back down the hill. I went past the church parking lot (very large lot) and continued toward the archeology museum (located inside the castle) where I turned around. Upon returning toward the church I saw an arched gate in the wall which appeared to go no place. All I could see through the arch was the town below so I tried to go back the way I had entered the area. A man walking near the arch indicated that I couldn’t go in the direction I was headed and needed to go through the gate. I pointed to the gate (straight ahead) and he nodded yes. OK. But if I drive off the cliff it’s your fault mister!! He was right – there was a road. You descend through the “hole in the wall” but if coming from the church you first have to turn around as it is impossible to make the right angle turn to get through the gate and then immediately veer to the right. You need to approach the gate straight on.
I drove back to town and found parking on a side street at the top of the square. The main part of the town is on a slope with St. Bartholomew church at the top. The TI is mid way down on the right if the church is behind you. I explored St. Bartholomew church, one of the few churches in Portugal that is open. Throughout this trip I was amazed that so many churches did not open. I love churches and stop in every one I see. But there were very few open. In some towns I didn’t see any open churches. What was interesting about Portuguese churches is that they often did not have a crucifix on the altar, or if there was an image of Christ on the cross, it was off to the side. St. Bartholomew had a large statue of the Blessed Virgin as the altar centerpiece.
After a stop in the TI and something to drink in a café I again went to the church at 2:00. It was still not open so I waited for a bit. About 10 minutes later a woman entered the parking lot at a speed of about mach 4 and opened the church. It’s a lovely church and someone was playing the organ while I was there. The nave is covered with blue, yellow, and white patterned tiles from floor to ceiling and of course marble columns as this is a marble town. The altar contains blue and white tiles with Biblical scenes. No photography is allowed in the church.
Since I’ve traveled quite a bit, and seen a lot of Europe, I opted not to see the archeological museum, ducal palace and other things in Vila Vicosa. I might have considered seeing some of the exhibits at the ducal palace but didn’t want to spend 30 to 60 minutes on a Portuguese only tour and you can only see the ducal palace on a tour. Here’s some up to the minute information on the sites in Vila Vicosa:
The Ducal Palace and surrounding collections are by guided tour only, in Portuguese only. No photography is allowed. Each area of the Ducal Palace is accessed separately for a separate entrance fee. Tickets are purchased from the concierge at the palace except tickets for the coach museum which is bought at that location.
Hours October to March: Closed Mondays and Tuesday mornings. Tuesday 2:00 – 5:00, Wednesday 10:00 – 1:00 & 2:00 – 5:00, Thursday – Sunday 9:30 – 1:00 & 2:00 – 5:00.
Hours April to September: Same as above but open until 5:30 Tuesday – Friday and until 6:00 weekends.
Admission:
Ducal Palace (1 hour tour) – 6.00
Armory (1 hour tour) – 2.50
Coach museum (30 minute tour) – 1.50
Chinese porcelain (30 minute tour) – 2.50
Treasury (30 minute tour) – 2.50
Each town can be seen in half a day although there is much more sightseeing in Vila Vicosa than in Estremoz.
It’s an easy drive to Estremoz from Evora and I had no problem following the signs out of Evora and finding Estremoz. I did get a late start as I couldn’t get myself out of bed. Hereafter I set my alarm and started the day earlier so I was driving in the cool mornings could get some sightseeing done before the afternoon heat.
Just before arriving in Estremoz I was pulled over by the police who were standing under an overpass with three parked police cars. Yikes! I was going too fast to pull behind the three police cars and I’ve been taught that you should never be behind the police. Always stay in front and they should approach you from behind. I guess Portuguese police ethics are different because he was annoyed that I pulled in front of the cars and he had to walk to my car and started yelling and signaling that I should have pulled in behind the police cars. He approached as I opened my window and I said Bom Dia, in a very friendly way. He spouted some Portuguese at me and I gave him my fully mastered helpless, hopeless look and apologized for not speaking Portuguese. He said “your documents” very sternly. I handed over my license, explained that it’s a license to drive and silently reprimanded myself for not having my passport copy with me. The officer took my license back to his confreres, they spoke for a few minutes, he returned, handed my license back, and waved me away. That was it. Good – only a random check. Note to self: Don’t forget to put your passport copy in your purse!
Estremoz has a very large car park near the TI but it was very full and there was some creative parking going on. I didn’t realize that Saturday is the day for a big flea and farmer’s market which shouldn’t be missed. I couldn’t find a spot in the large car park so I drove around for a bit and saw some street parking in the shade – what luck. I walked to the market and looked around a bit. I should have given this market more time than the few minutes I spent there. I never did see the live chickens and ducks I heard about later. If you’re in the area on Saturday, don’t miss this market. Get there early.
I found the TI and got a map and then headed up toward the ruined castle. I met some Americans on the way down and asked if I was going in the right direction. They were on their way back to their car as the walk up was too steep for them and they learned that you can drive right up to the pousada and castle area. I decided to do the same as it was getting hot! When you drive up as far as you think you can and see a stone archway with dirt parking lots on either side, continue on through the arch and park by the pousada – there’s lots of spaces.
I didn’t spend much time at the market as I wanted to see the Capela de Santa Isabel, to the left of the pousada. It’s kept locked and you get the key from someone at St. Marie church, down the hill from the castle. The church was closed, the museum near the main square was closed, and by the time I drove back to the square the market had packed up. I’m doing really badly with sightseeing. The day before I saw one church and today, so far, I saw the Estremoz pousada. This is pitiful. But I did get to meet the police – LOL.
Onward to Vila Vicosa, pronounced vi-SO-sa. The “c” has a cedilla under it, making the “c” sound like an “s.”
I arrive here sometime before 2:00. Vila Vicosa is one of the marble towns and according to Lonely Planet this is the one to see. It is indeed lovely. The TI (open all day) is on the large main square lined with benches and orange trees. I didn’t see a parking place around the square so I followed signs to the castle for the church I wanted to see – Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceicao – at the top of the hill.
The church was to re-open at 2:00 so I wandered through the adjacent cemetery with its lovely tombs, angels, cherubs. I still had time until I could see the church so I tried to find my way back down the hill. I went past the church parking lot (very large lot) and continued toward the archeology museum (located inside the castle) where I turned around. Upon returning toward the church I saw an arched gate in the wall which appeared to go no place. All I could see through the arch was the town below so I tried to go back the way I had entered the area. A man walking near the arch indicated that I couldn’t go in the direction I was headed and needed to go through the gate. I pointed to the gate (straight ahead) and he nodded yes. OK. But if I drive off the cliff it’s your fault mister!! He was right – there was a road. You descend through the “hole in the wall” but if coming from the church you first have to turn around as it is impossible to make the right angle turn to get through the gate and then immediately veer to the right. You need to approach the gate straight on.
I drove back to town and found parking on a side street at the top of the square. The main part of the town is on a slope with St. Bartholomew church at the top. The TI is mid way down on the right if the church is behind you. I explored St. Bartholomew church, one of the few churches in Portugal that is open. Throughout this trip I was amazed that so many churches did not open. I love churches and stop in every one I see. But there were very few open. In some towns I didn’t see any open churches. What was interesting about Portuguese churches is that they often did not have a crucifix on the altar, or if there was an image of Christ on the cross, it was off to the side. St. Bartholomew had a large statue of the Blessed Virgin as the altar centerpiece.
After a stop in the TI and something to drink in a café I again went to the church at 2:00. It was still not open so I waited for a bit. About 10 minutes later a woman entered the parking lot at a speed of about mach 4 and opened the church. It’s a lovely church and someone was playing the organ while I was there. The nave is covered with blue, yellow, and white patterned tiles from floor to ceiling and of course marble columns as this is a marble town. The altar contains blue and white tiles with Biblical scenes. No photography is allowed in the church.
Since I’ve traveled quite a bit, and seen a lot of Europe, I opted not to see the archeological museum, ducal palace and other things in Vila Vicosa. I might have considered seeing some of the exhibits at the ducal palace but didn’t want to spend 30 to 60 minutes on a Portuguese only tour and you can only see the ducal palace on a tour. Here’s some up to the minute information on the sites in Vila Vicosa:
The Ducal Palace and surrounding collections are by guided tour only, in Portuguese only. No photography is allowed. Each area of the Ducal Palace is accessed separately for a separate entrance fee. Tickets are purchased from the concierge at the palace except tickets for the coach museum which is bought at that location.
Hours October to March: Closed Mondays and Tuesday mornings. Tuesday 2:00 – 5:00, Wednesday 10:00 – 1:00 & 2:00 – 5:00, Thursday – Sunday 9:30 – 1:00 & 2:00 – 5:00.
Hours April to September: Same as above but open until 5:30 Tuesday – Friday and until 6:00 weekends.
Admission:
Ducal Palace (1 hour tour) – 6.00
Armory (1 hour tour) – 2.50
Coach museum (30 minute tour) – 1.50
Chinese porcelain (30 minute tour) – 2.50
Treasury (30 minute tour) – 2.50
Oct 24th, 2009, 05:32 AM
#38
Even though you only spent a short time at the Estremoz market, it is nice that you got there. We went to Estremoz on a Saturday morning because we were told about the market, and it was one of the most unspoiled, least touristed markets I have seen.
Thanks for taking me on this trip with you so I could revisit some of these lovely sites in my mind.
Thanks for taking me on this trip with you so I could revisit some of these lovely sites in my mind.
Oct 25th, 2009, 02:52 PM
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Day 5 – Sunday – Marvão
Marvão and Castelo de Vide, 15 minutes apart, can both be seen in a day. Castelo de Vide is much larger than Marvão and has two square, cafes, and shops. I stayed in Marvão which is very pretty but completely quiet at night. I had booked two nights in Marvão and it was too much time. But if you’re looking for a restful place, you’ve found it in Marvão.
I had set my alarm to get up early for the drive to Marvão (mar-VO). Mappy told me that it was a 2 hour drive from Évora so that meant it was 2.5 hours for me. I believe Mappy driving times are for those who drive at 120kpm but I’m a slow poke – 80 or 90 is good enough for me.
As it was early Sunday morning there was no problem parking the car outside the hotel to load my luggage. The building next to the hotel was recessed so I could park in front of it and allow clear access for any car needing to drive down the street which is only wide enough for one car.
I set off in the delightful 13 degree C. temperature, reveling in it. The 10 minute walk to get my car was invigorating. I had packed one sweater but it never left my suitcase the entire trip. You can see how much I hate the heat since I consider 13 degrees shirt sleeve weather. The conversion is 55 degrees F.
Much of the route to Marvão was foggy but not enough to impede driving. The scenery between Lisbon and Portalegre is very dull. Mostly flat and dry with olive trees lining the roads. Once in a while I would see 3 cows or 4 sheep but there had been nothing interesting to look at either on the train from Lisbon to Évora or during my drives from Évora the past two days.
The scenery changes after Portalegre and becomes more mountainous with windy tree-lined roads. The pretty towns between Portalegre and Marvão are filled with brilliantly white houses trimmed in yellow or blue. The road winds between rows of cork trees, showing red where they’re stripped of their bark and painted with white letters and numbers. The area is alluringly lush and visually appealing.
I entered the very small town and followed the sign for the castello as that is where the TI is usually located and I needed to find my hotel. Even if you have directions within a town there are often no street signs for reference. At a fork I went downhill, rather than uphill to the castle as the road looked too narrow to really be a road. My choice was serendipitous as I spotted the hotel’s name over a small doorway. I backed up into a parking area with no empty spots so I backed in, blocking a Nissin truck, hoping it would not be used on a Sunday or used in the next 5 minutes.
The doorway with the hotel name over it was just a door – not a hotel entrance. I looked around and saw another door across the street and down a few steps. It was the hotel with a note taped to the door with my name on it saying open at 2:00. That was about 3 hours later. As I was standing there deciding what to do and where to park a man came out of another doorway and walked toward me. I pointed to the sign and then to myself. The man was Fernando – the hotel owner who came out of his bar/restaurant. He helped me with my luggage and I pointed to the truck I was blocking but he said it was his truck and my car was fine where it was. The conversation took place in Portuguese (him) and English (me).
My room was up the stairs – a large sunny room with 2 beds (double and single) and a very very clean and modern bathroom. There was a wonderful breeze coming through the window and a view over the surrounding area. The lights are on a timer and there are switches at the bottom, the first landing and at the top. There was no desk clerk so you’re on your own but Fernando is normally found in his bar/restaurant. There are 4 or 5 rooms upstairs and 1 room on the ground floor.
A word about outer door locks in Portugal. You need to put the key all the way in and then slowly remove the key while turning to the right. If you try to open a door with the key all the way in you will not be successful. All the hotels I stayed in had locks that worked exactly the same way. The rooms had normal locks. It could be a bit frightening if you’re trying to get into a hotel and no one is around to help you.
I unpacked and walked up to the castle, going the long way around, starting from opposite the castle end of town and walking along the ramparts. Just below the castle on the left is a lovely garden with the town’s name spelled in hedges. Castelo de Vide also had its name spelled in hedges near the castle. There are 2 shops within the castle; one as you enter and another farther into the castle.
The TI is on the right before you enter the castle and just before the TI is a bar with a delightful back garden with tables and chairs. There are trees for shade and a wonderful breeze. You order inside the bar and can either take your food and drink with you or someone will bring it out. The bar serves one hot meal a day Monday to Friday. Weekends there are sweet and savory pastries or toasted sandwiches. Everything is reasonably priced – water for 1.00 each and the sandwich was 1.55. A glass of wine is .65. Someone’s trip report alerted me to this bar, otherwise I might have missed it since you can’t see the back garden from the street.
After a shower and nap I walked around the town and stood gazing at the valley below, thinking how long the twilight lasts in Marvão. Perhaps it’s because the white buildings capture the light longer. I watched the black birds swarming in the twilight and wondered if these are the birds who live high up in the winds and never land. They approach during dawn and dusk to feed off the bugs. I thought these might be the same birds since I didn’t see them during the day.
I had planned to eat at Fernando’s restaurant, directly across from the square/car park (same name as the hotel - Varanda do Alentejo Marvão), expecting it to open at 7:00. It was well after 7:00 and I was surprised it was closed. Upon further reading the sign I realized it was closed this weekend. Hmmm…what to do about dinner. I hadn’t looked for any other restaurants and hadn’t seen any since I had planned to eat at Fernando’s. I walked up the street and found another restaurant not far away. I went inside and saw I was the only person there. By the time I had finished my meal there were two other tables – not a big turnout. I had lamb casserole, cooked in a red broth with potatoes and bread. The lamb looked like a huge portion but the meat was on bones and there was a lot of fat on it so it wasn’t too much to eat. I hadn’t been ordering dessert but the mango mousse caught my eye so I ordered it. It was thick and creamy and very mango and delicious. Total for dinner – 16.00 with half a bottle of wine. I hadn’t finished my wine and the restaurant didn’t have much atmosphere so I took the wine back to my room to finish it.
Aspects of Portuguese culture:
The waiters do not pour the wine for you (except in Lisbon). They uncork the bottle and then put it on the table – you pour your own wine, even the first glass.
In bars you order your food or beverage inside and you pay later, when you’re ready to leave (except in Lisbon). I found the Portuguese to be very trusting people. If this were Italy you would have to pay first and then get your food or drink.
Marvão and Castelo de Vide, 15 minutes apart, can both be seen in a day. Castelo de Vide is much larger than Marvão and has two square, cafes, and shops. I stayed in Marvão which is very pretty but completely quiet at night. I had booked two nights in Marvão and it was too much time. But if you’re looking for a restful place, you’ve found it in Marvão.
I had set my alarm to get up early for the drive to Marvão (mar-VO). Mappy told me that it was a 2 hour drive from Évora so that meant it was 2.5 hours for me. I believe Mappy driving times are for those who drive at 120kpm but I’m a slow poke – 80 or 90 is good enough for me.
As it was early Sunday morning there was no problem parking the car outside the hotel to load my luggage. The building next to the hotel was recessed so I could park in front of it and allow clear access for any car needing to drive down the street which is only wide enough for one car.
I set off in the delightful 13 degree C. temperature, reveling in it. The 10 minute walk to get my car was invigorating. I had packed one sweater but it never left my suitcase the entire trip. You can see how much I hate the heat since I consider 13 degrees shirt sleeve weather. The conversion is 55 degrees F.
Much of the route to Marvão was foggy but not enough to impede driving. The scenery between Lisbon and Portalegre is very dull. Mostly flat and dry with olive trees lining the roads. Once in a while I would see 3 cows or 4 sheep but there had been nothing interesting to look at either on the train from Lisbon to Évora or during my drives from Évora the past two days.
The scenery changes after Portalegre and becomes more mountainous with windy tree-lined roads. The pretty towns between Portalegre and Marvão are filled with brilliantly white houses trimmed in yellow or blue. The road winds between rows of cork trees, showing red where they’re stripped of their bark and painted with white letters and numbers. The area is alluringly lush and visually appealing.
I entered the very small town and followed the sign for the castello as that is where the TI is usually located and I needed to find my hotel. Even if you have directions within a town there are often no street signs for reference. At a fork I went downhill, rather than uphill to the castle as the road looked too narrow to really be a road. My choice was serendipitous as I spotted the hotel’s name over a small doorway. I backed up into a parking area with no empty spots so I backed in, blocking a Nissin truck, hoping it would not be used on a Sunday or used in the next 5 minutes.
The doorway with the hotel name over it was just a door – not a hotel entrance. I looked around and saw another door across the street and down a few steps. It was the hotel with a note taped to the door with my name on it saying open at 2:00. That was about 3 hours later. As I was standing there deciding what to do and where to park a man came out of another doorway and walked toward me. I pointed to the sign and then to myself. The man was Fernando – the hotel owner who came out of his bar/restaurant. He helped me with my luggage and I pointed to the truck I was blocking but he said it was his truck and my car was fine where it was. The conversation took place in Portuguese (him) and English (me).
My room was up the stairs – a large sunny room with 2 beds (double and single) and a very very clean and modern bathroom. There was a wonderful breeze coming through the window and a view over the surrounding area. The lights are on a timer and there are switches at the bottom, the first landing and at the top. There was no desk clerk so you’re on your own but Fernando is normally found in his bar/restaurant. There are 4 or 5 rooms upstairs and 1 room on the ground floor.
A word about outer door locks in Portugal. You need to put the key all the way in and then slowly remove the key while turning to the right. If you try to open a door with the key all the way in you will not be successful. All the hotels I stayed in had locks that worked exactly the same way. The rooms had normal locks. It could be a bit frightening if you’re trying to get into a hotel and no one is around to help you.
I unpacked and walked up to the castle, going the long way around, starting from opposite the castle end of town and walking along the ramparts. Just below the castle on the left is a lovely garden with the town’s name spelled in hedges. Castelo de Vide also had its name spelled in hedges near the castle. There are 2 shops within the castle; one as you enter and another farther into the castle.
The TI is on the right before you enter the castle and just before the TI is a bar with a delightful back garden with tables and chairs. There are trees for shade and a wonderful breeze. You order inside the bar and can either take your food and drink with you or someone will bring it out. The bar serves one hot meal a day Monday to Friday. Weekends there are sweet and savory pastries or toasted sandwiches. Everything is reasonably priced – water for 1.00 each and the sandwich was 1.55. A glass of wine is .65. Someone’s trip report alerted me to this bar, otherwise I might have missed it since you can’t see the back garden from the street.
After a shower and nap I walked around the town and stood gazing at the valley below, thinking how long the twilight lasts in Marvão. Perhaps it’s because the white buildings capture the light longer. I watched the black birds swarming in the twilight and wondered if these are the birds who live high up in the winds and never land. They approach during dawn and dusk to feed off the bugs. I thought these might be the same birds since I didn’t see them during the day.
I had planned to eat at Fernando’s restaurant, directly across from the square/car park (same name as the hotel - Varanda do Alentejo Marvão), expecting it to open at 7:00. It was well after 7:00 and I was surprised it was closed. Upon further reading the sign I realized it was closed this weekend. Hmmm…what to do about dinner. I hadn’t looked for any other restaurants and hadn’t seen any since I had planned to eat at Fernando’s. I walked up the street and found another restaurant not far away. I went inside and saw I was the only person there. By the time I had finished my meal there were two other tables – not a big turnout. I had lamb casserole, cooked in a red broth with potatoes and bread. The lamb looked like a huge portion but the meat was on bones and there was a lot of fat on it so it wasn’t too much to eat. I hadn’t been ordering dessert but the mango mousse caught my eye so I ordered it. It was thick and creamy and very mango and delicious. Total for dinner – 16.00 with half a bottle of wine. I hadn’t finished my wine and the restaurant didn’t have much atmosphere so I took the wine back to my room to finish it.
Aspects of Portuguese culture:
The waiters do not pour the wine for you (except in Lisbon). They uncork the bottle and then put it on the table – you pour your own wine, even the first glass.
In bars you order your food or beverage inside and you pay later, when you’re ready to leave (except in Lisbon). I found the Portuguese to be very trusting people. If this were Italy you would have to pay first and then get your food or drink.
Oct 26th, 2009, 02:51 PM
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Day 6 – Monday - Castelo de Vide
Breakfast was served in Fernando’s restaurant between 8:00 and 10:00. I walked out at 8:15 and saw him outside the bar/restaurant. He was closing it up and said something to me in rapid Portuguese to which I raised my eyebrows. Just because I have perfected my pronunciation of “bom dia” doesn’t mean I can understand the language – LOL. He pointed to his watch and said in Portuguese that the woman is late and will arrive soon. I sat in the square/car park and waited another 15 minutes, soaking up the 16 degree weather. So far it was another perfect day in paradise but the heat would soon emerge. At 8:30 I decided to bail on breakfast and get something in Castelo de Vide.
It’s about a 20 minute drive between Marvao and Castelo de Vide, for me. Others can do the drive in 15 minutes. I arrive in this lovely town and look for a parking spot. There are no spots around the square nor along the small side street immediately adjacent to the square. The TI is not yet open (TI hours 9:00 – 12:30 & 2:00 – 6:00). I decide to scope out the castle area and see if I can drive up thus avoiding a steep hike.
I must say that Portugal has the steepest street of anywhere I’ve been. Think about the hills in Italy and double their steepness. The streets are also made from rocks and are uneven, making the walking even more difficult.
I follow the signs to the castle. There’s a short road off the square that intersects with another road. The road up goes to the castle, of course. I make the turn and see the steepest street I’ve yet seen. Although I can’t see the entire street as it immediately curves to the left I know that this is a road I’m not gonna drive. It is steep!!! My option is to back up (not my strong point) into the street I just left and go downhill and look for a parking place. I’m going to walk up. I back up with extreme care as the intersection is narrow. This is the time to talk about my vertigo. Driving in a car wouldn’t normally give me an attack but as I try to make the left turn the street also slants to the left and I have the sensation of falling. My stomach starts churning and I don’t think I can make the turn down hill. I carefully back up and try to angle the car properly so I don’t hit any walls. I sit there for a few minutes telling myself that the car can’t possibly tip over and many people have made this turn. People come up the street and just stare at me. I stare back with a frozen look on my face. I have an idea. I pull 2 Euro out of my purse and the next person who walks by gets 2 Euros if he/she drives the car down the hill for me. I stopped the next passerby, a young man, and ask if he drives, making the motion of turning a steering wheel and using the French word for driving. He looks at me like I’m a true nutter (which I must agree with), says “no” and keeps walking.
Get a grip, Adrienne! Vertigo is all in your head and the car will not tip over! Make the flipping turn! I take a deep breath, put the car in gear, and make the turn. Success!!! Portuguese streets are for masochists – they are narrow, steep, and angled. I loop around and get back to the square and find a parking spot – the only one left.
The TI is now open and I get a map and go find a café for breakfast. I have a coffee and an apple pastry (good) in one of the cafes in the pedestrian street behind the TI. After consulting the map I decide to first walk through the Judairia and follow the signs. I get lost and find myself outside the gate so I turn around and walk back uphill. Stop and admire the 16th century covered marble fountain and take some photos, first removing the wheel barrow with a twig broom across it (first twig broom I’ve ever seen).
I continue up Rua da Judairia, hoping this street is not as steep as the one to the castle. In true Adrienne fashion I’ve chosen the wrong street to walk up. The street leading to the castle is less steep and was the one I should have walked up and then walked down Rua da Judairia. This is the only street I saw with railings in the middle to assist walking. It’s by far the steepest street I saw during my trip. I stop a couple of times to recover. I had planned to see the synagogue, and according to the guide books it is open daily, but it is closed on Mondays so no synagogue. It’s a very pretty street with white-washed houses, flowers growing out of pots, and old women sitting on their doorsteps enjoying the cooling breezes. Walk down Rua da Judairia, rather than up.
The ruined castle is on two levels with a free civic museum on the second level. The small museum contains archeological artifacts, a history of the town (Portuguese only), belt buckles, cannon balls, and sabers. The medieval area (to the right after entering the castle gate) has a lovely church adorned with blue, yellow, and white tiles. Outside the church there was a low wall where a Frenchman was sitting. I sat near him, fanning myself. He muttered something in French which roughly translates to “that’s one flipping steep hill.” I agreed, especially as I had walked up the even steeper hill.
In the medieval section there was a small square, lined with houses, where a woman was scrubbing her clothes on an old fashioned tub/washboard. I couldn’t believe it. I pretended to talk to a bird in a cage, hanging from a tree, while surreptitiously watching the woman. I wanted to take a photo of her but felt that would be rude. I actually wanted to buy her a washing machine. I saw a similar tub/washboard sitting on the side of the street farther down the hill and took a photo of that to remind myself of this woman.
Back down to the main square and Santa Maria da Devesa church. You enter via a side door on the right of the church. It’s one of the prettiest church I’ve seen so far with Christ on the Cross at the front of the altar while the Blessed Virgin and Jesus have place of honor atop a six-tier platform in a niche. This statue is reminiscent of a wedding cake. At first glance, the church interior appears to be all marble but a closer look reveals that it is stucco painted to resemble marble. I verified that it is painted stucco with the woman sitting at a desk. Again, no photography allowed in this church.
Back to the same café for lunch. I inhaled a bottle of apricot nectar and ordered two chicken tartlets thinking I was very hungry. I had expected the tartlets to be like quiche but they had only chicken inside a flaky pastry crust. The one I had was very good but I couldn’t manage the second one. There was a mini market next to the café and I jumped up to buy some water, grapes, and cookies as I realized the mini market might close. It was noon and people were beginning to disappear from the square and shops were shutting. I walked around the flat part of town for a bit, stopped at an ATM, and then sat in the park reading my book and enjoying the spray from the fountains.
I drove back to Marvao, looking for gas on the way. You know there are few gas stations in the area when you see gas signs with 5km or 8km on them. Since I had planned an early start the next morning I followed the 5km gas sign. I drove more than 5km without seeing a station so I turned back. I then saw the 8km gas sign and followed the direction. With a few mistaken turns I found a gas station and filled up.
In Marvao I parked the car and walked up toward the castle to have a glass of wine in the bar. It was so pleasant with the breeze and the shade. I read my book and drank 2 glasses of wine before heading back to the room for a shower. Fernando’s restaurant was open today. He is quite the entrepreneur – a hotel, bar/restaurant, and a taxi service and he must be involved in other things as he owned the Nissin truck parked across from the restaurant. He’s about covered all you need in Marvao. The dining room is small and it was mostly filled. I had pork cutlets with lemon slices on top – very good. The meat was a bit tough to cut but tender to chew. There were the ever-present rice and fries. The rice was well cooked and easy to digest so I ate some. Very good meal – better than the night before. I’d recommend Fernando’s restaurant if you’re eating in Marvao. I only saw the 2 restaurants I ate at so I’m not sure if there are other choices.
Fernando is very much a Type A personality – always rushing some place, getting things done. I thought Marvao was an unusual place for him as it is so laid back. He didn’t do the cooking but he waited at the tables; running up and down the stairs, taking orders and delivering food and drink. I wanted to pay my hotel bill when I paid the dinner check as I planned to leave early (and who knows where Fernando would be early in the morning – certainly not at the hotel) but he was busy getting orders to his customers so I went back later to settle the bill.
Breakfast was served in Fernando’s restaurant between 8:00 and 10:00. I walked out at 8:15 and saw him outside the bar/restaurant. He was closing it up and said something to me in rapid Portuguese to which I raised my eyebrows. Just because I have perfected my pronunciation of “bom dia” doesn’t mean I can understand the language – LOL. He pointed to his watch and said in Portuguese that the woman is late and will arrive soon. I sat in the square/car park and waited another 15 minutes, soaking up the 16 degree weather. So far it was another perfect day in paradise but the heat would soon emerge. At 8:30 I decided to bail on breakfast and get something in Castelo de Vide.
It’s about a 20 minute drive between Marvao and Castelo de Vide, for me. Others can do the drive in 15 minutes. I arrive in this lovely town and look for a parking spot. There are no spots around the square nor along the small side street immediately adjacent to the square. The TI is not yet open (TI hours 9:00 – 12:30 & 2:00 – 6:00). I decide to scope out the castle area and see if I can drive up thus avoiding a steep hike.
I must say that Portugal has the steepest street of anywhere I’ve been. Think about the hills in Italy and double their steepness. The streets are also made from rocks and are uneven, making the walking even more difficult.
I follow the signs to the castle. There’s a short road off the square that intersects with another road. The road up goes to the castle, of course. I make the turn and see the steepest street I’ve yet seen. Although I can’t see the entire street as it immediately curves to the left I know that this is a road I’m not gonna drive. It is steep!!! My option is to back up (not my strong point) into the street I just left and go downhill and look for a parking place. I’m going to walk up. I back up with extreme care as the intersection is narrow. This is the time to talk about my vertigo. Driving in a car wouldn’t normally give me an attack but as I try to make the left turn the street also slants to the left and I have the sensation of falling. My stomach starts churning and I don’t think I can make the turn down hill. I carefully back up and try to angle the car properly so I don’t hit any walls. I sit there for a few minutes telling myself that the car can’t possibly tip over and many people have made this turn. People come up the street and just stare at me. I stare back with a frozen look on my face. I have an idea. I pull 2 Euro out of my purse and the next person who walks by gets 2 Euros if he/she drives the car down the hill for me. I stopped the next passerby, a young man, and ask if he drives, making the motion of turning a steering wheel and using the French word for driving. He looks at me like I’m a true nutter (which I must agree with), says “no” and keeps walking.
Get a grip, Adrienne! Vertigo is all in your head and the car will not tip over! Make the flipping turn! I take a deep breath, put the car in gear, and make the turn. Success!!! Portuguese streets are for masochists – they are narrow, steep, and angled. I loop around and get back to the square and find a parking spot – the only one left.
The TI is now open and I get a map and go find a café for breakfast. I have a coffee and an apple pastry (good) in one of the cafes in the pedestrian street behind the TI. After consulting the map I decide to first walk through the Judairia and follow the signs. I get lost and find myself outside the gate so I turn around and walk back uphill. Stop and admire the 16th century covered marble fountain and take some photos, first removing the wheel barrow with a twig broom across it (first twig broom I’ve ever seen).
I continue up Rua da Judairia, hoping this street is not as steep as the one to the castle. In true Adrienne fashion I’ve chosen the wrong street to walk up. The street leading to the castle is less steep and was the one I should have walked up and then walked down Rua da Judairia. This is the only street I saw with railings in the middle to assist walking. It’s by far the steepest street I saw during my trip. I stop a couple of times to recover. I had planned to see the synagogue, and according to the guide books it is open daily, but it is closed on Mondays so no synagogue. It’s a very pretty street with white-washed houses, flowers growing out of pots, and old women sitting on their doorsteps enjoying the cooling breezes. Walk down Rua da Judairia, rather than up.
The ruined castle is on two levels with a free civic museum on the second level. The small museum contains archeological artifacts, a history of the town (Portuguese only), belt buckles, cannon balls, and sabers. The medieval area (to the right after entering the castle gate) has a lovely church adorned with blue, yellow, and white tiles. Outside the church there was a low wall where a Frenchman was sitting. I sat near him, fanning myself. He muttered something in French which roughly translates to “that’s one flipping steep hill.” I agreed, especially as I had walked up the even steeper hill.
In the medieval section there was a small square, lined with houses, where a woman was scrubbing her clothes on an old fashioned tub/washboard. I couldn’t believe it. I pretended to talk to a bird in a cage, hanging from a tree, while surreptitiously watching the woman. I wanted to take a photo of her but felt that would be rude. I actually wanted to buy her a washing machine. I saw a similar tub/washboard sitting on the side of the street farther down the hill and took a photo of that to remind myself of this woman.
Back down to the main square and Santa Maria da Devesa church. You enter via a side door on the right of the church. It’s one of the prettiest church I’ve seen so far with Christ on the Cross at the front of the altar while the Blessed Virgin and Jesus have place of honor atop a six-tier platform in a niche. This statue is reminiscent of a wedding cake. At first glance, the church interior appears to be all marble but a closer look reveals that it is stucco painted to resemble marble. I verified that it is painted stucco with the woman sitting at a desk. Again, no photography allowed in this church.
Back to the same café for lunch. I inhaled a bottle of apricot nectar and ordered two chicken tartlets thinking I was very hungry. I had expected the tartlets to be like quiche but they had only chicken inside a flaky pastry crust. The one I had was very good but I couldn’t manage the second one. There was a mini market next to the café and I jumped up to buy some water, grapes, and cookies as I realized the mini market might close. It was noon and people were beginning to disappear from the square and shops were shutting. I walked around the flat part of town for a bit, stopped at an ATM, and then sat in the park reading my book and enjoying the spray from the fountains.
I drove back to Marvao, looking for gas on the way. You know there are few gas stations in the area when you see gas signs with 5km or 8km on them. Since I had planned an early start the next morning I followed the 5km gas sign. I drove more than 5km without seeing a station so I turned back. I then saw the 8km gas sign and followed the direction. With a few mistaken turns I found a gas station and filled up.
In Marvao I parked the car and walked up toward the castle to have a glass of wine in the bar. It was so pleasant with the breeze and the shade. I read my book and drank 2 glasses of wine before heading back to the room for a shower. Fernando’s restaurant was open today. He is quite the entrepreneur – a hotel, bar/restaurant, and a taxi service and he must be involved in other things as he owned the Nissin truck parked across from the restaurant. He’s about covered all you need in Marvao. The dining room is small and it was mostly filled. I had pork cutlets with lemon slices on top – very good. The meat was a bit tough to cut but tender to chew. There were the ever-present rice and fries. The rice was well cooked and easy to digest so I ate some. Very good meal – better than the night before. I’d recommend Fernando’s restaurant if you’re eating in Marvao. I only saw the 2 restaurants I ate at so I’m not sure if there are other choices.
Fernando is very much a Type A personality – always rushing some place, getting things done. I thought Marvao was an unusual place for him as it is so laid back. He didn’t do the cooking but he waited at the tables; running up and down the stairs, taking orders and delivering food and drink. I wanted to pay my hotel bill when I paid the dinner check as I planned to leave early (and who knows where Fernando would be early in the morning – certainly not at the hotel) but he was busy getting orders to his customers so I went back later to settle the bill.
